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Autumn planting of fruit trees and bushes. Planting fruit trees and shrubs

Garden furniture

The matter is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Back in 1909 gardening instructor J. Pengerot in an article with the expressive title "In the fall or spring to plant trees?" put forward interesting arguments on this topic.

Wise thought

"The autumn planting works the better, the sooner it is possible to do it."

Confused business

“There is no doubt that a newly planted tree is more sensitive to frost than an already rooted one, and therefore the preponderance to the side spring planting, not autumn.

Although an autumn planting cannot be considered impossible either ... The tree should be planted only at a time when it has stopped growing, when during the summer the shoots that have grown are fully strengthened and matured, that is, starting from September to October (the farther south, the earlier you can start transplant; for example, in the Saratov province, you can start at the end of August); in the spring, now, as the earth has thawed, until the buds begin to open. "

The information is correct, but it is not yet clear: autumn or spring? However, further the author tells about his experience "in the Baltic region and other northern provinces."

Autumn wins

“Having been gardening and planting trees for over 25 years ... my stance was that I always gave preference to planting in the fall, except when it was necessary to plant in extremely clayey, moist soil. If landing is made early autumn, as already mentioned above, at a time when the tree, although it stopped growing, but the sap movement in it has not finally stopped, it will have time to give young roots before the onset of frost, and also the cuts of the roots partially float. Such a tree will overwinter well and will start growing quickly next spring. The later the transplant is carried out, the less the tree has time to take root and is taken more slowly in the spring, and sometimes in winter, part of it dies from severe frosts. For trees planted in autumn, it is necessary to cut off the leaves so that they do not evaporate the reserve moisture, since the perception of nutrients stops before the appearance of new roots.

True, in very cold areas and on damp cold soils, it should be planted in the spring, because during autumn planting, groundwater can adversely affect the roots of new plantings. In hot countries, even on wet soil, spring planting has its bad sides: if it is not possible to resort to frequent watering, then the summer heat soon dries up the soil, and newly planted trees often die or are poorly accepted. "

Confirmation from the Volga region

“Autumn plantings, gardeners assured me, completely perish in the very first winter.

I did not believe it, and when, finally, in the fall of 1908, I had the opportunity to plant in two gardens ... For the final decision controversial issue I planted in the fall. I planted 60 apple trees and 10 pears in each garden in the first half of September - at the end of October I covered them with dry weeds from the bottom to the very tops in a thin layer, and - transferred them to the power of winter. In one garden, the trees were all taken up, in the other - 2 apple trees and 2 pears perished ”.

In the summer, the author of the article visited neighboring lands, where seedlings from the same nursery were planted in the spring. He saw the following picture: "About 50% of apple trees and the same number of pears represented a healthy look, about 10% of apple trees and 50% of pears died, and the rest of the apple trees are still between life and death, despite the fact that the spring was favorable."

Based on materials from the magazine "Progressive gardening and horticulture"

* the article deals only with seedlings with an open root system

Personal experience

Prepare the sleigh in summer

Frost on bare ground is a dream of many summer residents in their nightmares. Especially for those who can only visit their garden on weekends. And for those who, like me, managed to plant a lot of heat-loving plants - and even more so!

Since during my gardening I managed to “step on the same rake” more than once, meeting frost without snow with useless groaning and throwing, then recently I made it a rule to prepare for a possible sharp cold snap in advance. I hope my experience will be useful to other summer residents.

Firstly, plants that will have to be covered for the winter are best prepared for this early, even if the aesthetics of the garden will suffer from this. For example, bend and lightly sprinkle large-leaved hydrangeas with earth, lay climbing and shrub roses until their branches become brittle from the cold. It will not hurt to throw on a non-woven material: in the absence of snow from frost, it, of course, will not save, but it will help "soften the blow" with a sharp drop in temperature.

Secondly, it is imperative to mulch the trunks of thermophilic trees and shrubs. A layer of organic matter 10-15 cm thick will protect their roots from frost. For lovers of "sour", for example, rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias, you can use peat, coniferous litter, sawdust. For others, compost, grass cuttings, fallen leaves. This can be done in September or October, without haste and without making a rush on the eve of severe frosts. I also mulch the soil in perennial flower beds. In the event of a sharp cold snap, the wet earth literally "explodes", which often leads to damage to the root system. And a thick layer of mulch will save you from this trouble.

Thirdly, it is worth preparing a "strategic stock" of free covering material - fallen leaves. Oak are best suited, but in the absence of such, you can use any that is at hand. I usually cut out half an hour, scoop up the foliage under the nearby trees and collect it in large garbage bags. In the event of a sudden cold snap, it is enough to cover the cut perennials with leaves - they will serve as insulation instead of snow.

S. A. Gulyaeva, Moscow region

Regardless of whether the summer resident has acquired empty land or has long been the owner of a chic plot, planting fruit trees not blowjob anyone. Some will create the garden of their dreams, others will rejuvenate it. All work must be done according to the rules and on time.

About the rules and timing of planting fruit trees

To Orchard developed well, its bookmark is carried out taking into account rationalism, acting in the following sequence:

  • first determine the optimal place for each seedling;
  • carry out pre-planting site preparation;
  • mark places for each tree;
  • digging holes and planting plants in them;
  • watered and pruned.

When choosing a landing site, you should take into account the location of the neighboring site. Tall trees cannot be planted near adjacent fences - they will shade someone else's territory. Do not place them near buildings either - in the future, the branches will lie on the roof and can damage the roof.

Fruit trees

It will also be inconvenient to prune and harvest such trees. In addition, there is additional (laborious) work to collect fallen leaves. If you do not remove it from the roof in time, then this leaf fall will begin to rot there.

Dwarf trees, like shrubs, can be safely placed under vigorous crops (apple and pear). They will not interfere with each other's development.

Pleasant neighborhood

When choosing crops for their garden, stone and pome breeds are placed separately from each other at a considerable distance (as far as garden plot). This will facilitate the fight against fruit tree diseases and pests.

When choosing a neighborhood, take into account the compatibility of plants:

  • the apple tree gets along well with pears, plums, quince, cherries; next to some shrubs (currants, barberry, viburnum, mock orange, lilac), the culture feels uncomfortable;
  • it is better to plant a pear with others like you and apple trees, trying to avoid being close to the already mentioned shrubs - they oppress the culture in the same way as the plum;
  • Cherry trees are best planted separately from other fruit trees, this will provide a better harvest.

On a note! The binding to the "wind rose" is important. Peaches, apricots and cherries are best planted in southern, southwestern directions. For the rest, the most comfortable is the northern side of the site. Although in this case it is also worth considering the region.

So, in the suburbs and other regions of central Russia, most often the western and north-western shreds of the site are allocated for the garden. Southerners prefer exclusively the north - this way you can protect the trees from overheating.

In the northern zone, naturally, the most appropriate place- the southern corner of the dacha. Not a single specialist assigns an eastern allotment for a garden plantation, leaving it for building a house.

Note! When choosing a place, you need to take into account the relief. Do not plant a slope with a garden if it is too steep - the fertile layer will constantly be washed out from under the roots. It is also worth ignoring the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in the spring, and the wood is damaged by fragments of slipping ice.

Transplanting trees

You can grow a garden in one place for decades. But sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to transplant fruit trees to another area. Only viable plants suitable for fruiting are selected.

To plant mature tree to a new place, he is prepared for the "move" in advance. 1-2 years before that, a groove is dug around the plant, located along the circumference of the crown. The width of the recess is 0.3-0.4 m, the depth is 0.8-1 m. This work is done in early spring.

In the process, roots are exposed, which are cut off from the general system. The sections are treated with a clay-earthen mash, to which a growth stimulator should also be added.

The ditch is covered with earth mixed with humus and watered abundantly. From this moment until the excavation, many fibrous processes are formed on the roots around the trunk. With their help, the plant will take root in a new place.

During such transplants, the main difficulty lies in extracting the tree from the old pit. To do everything neatly, you will have to use a leverage system. The removed plant is immediately transferred to a new place, where a spacious pit has already been prepared for it.

Transplanting a fruit tree

It is best to replant trees no older than 5 years. But this option is not suitable for everyone. cultivated plants... To preserve the variety of cherries, plums, pears, apple trees, it is better to graft them on a younger tree. There are 3 main ways of grafting: budding, grafting, ablating, allowing you to maintain (or improve) the variety.

Timing

Each summer resident determines the time of disembarkation for himself. For some, April - the first decade of May is suitable, others are more satisfied with October. Recently, there have been such enthusiasts that they plant fruit trees in the summer.

Note! Horticultural laws recommend planting stone fruit in spring and pome fruit in autumn.

But experienced gardeners argue that this condition should not be adhered to so strictly. The main thing in landing garden trees- comply with the rules of agricultural technology and maintain the layout of crops.

When to plant: in spring or autumn

Novice summer residents often wonder when it is better to plant fruit trees: in spring or autumn. To choose the optimal time for gardening, first of all, you should take into account the climatic region:


Having chosen a suitable month of planting for yourself, it is recommended to look into Moon calendar, which is published annually in periodicals to help "junior gardening". The astrological document indicates best days when planting fruit crops is recommended.

Do not ignore this information, because they have been using this method since ancient times (and not only in Russia). The moon actively influences all biological processes taking place on Earth, this fact has been proven by science.

Planting fruit trees in summer

Among modern summer residents there are those who do not like the investigator's stereotypes. They also practice the planting of garden trees in the summer. In addition, at the present time, this can be done without detriment to the trees.

An earlier argument against summer period the weather was hot, preventing normal rooting. But then the seedlings were sold exclusively with an open root system, which, indeed, is more comfortable to take root at low temperatures in well-moistened soil.

Now nurseries sell trees in containers with soil mixture, and the plant is no longer so important at what temperature it is sent to the pit. The roots are well protected and do not dry out.

Soil mixture

If an automated standardized irrigation system is laid on the site, then summer is even preferable for planting. June is considered a suitable month. You need to choose the days based on the phases of the moon. You should wait for the second or third quarter of the activity of the night luminary in order to plant seedlings of fruit trees.

The temperature of the soil is also taken into account. If it is above 25 degrees Celsius, planting work in summer should be carried out either early in the morning (at 6-8 o'clock), or late in the evening, but before sunset. This will keep the root system from burning and allow the plant to adapt better.

Seasoned gardeners highlight the following benefits of summer tree planting:

  • you can choose a suitable planting material without haste - in summer there is no such influx of farmers in nurseries;
  • during the growing season, it is easier to evaluate all the advantages of the purchased trees;
  • saplings of summer planting have time to take root before cold weather and are more resistant to winter than those planted in autumn.

Important! In order for young trees to endure the winter frosts, all the ovaries that have appeared on the plant should be removed during summer planting. Otherwise, they will take excess juices from the seedling on themselves and weaken it.

Conditions for planting seedlings

The rules for planting fruit trees are common for all seasons. Therefore, the gardener just needs to follow these instructions:

  • the pits are prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting the seedlings; this is necessary so that the excavated earth has time to ventilate;
  • the size of the excavation is determined by the type of soil and the type of fruit trees;
  • the walls are formed vertically, and the bottom is loosened onto a shovel bayonet;
  • when forming a hole, the top layer of earth is laid separately from the bottom - it will need to be mixed with organic fertilizers(peat, manure, compost, humus) and lay on the bottom;
  • before the seedling is lowered into the hole, the roots are dipped in a chatterbox (clay solution with the addition of earth);
  • in the center of the pit, it is advisable to drive in a one and a half meter pointed stake, straight and smooth;
  • when planting a tree, it should be on the north side of the stake;
  • the roots are straightened and sprinkled with earth;
  • then the seedling is shaken and the soil is lightly crushed; this is repeated until the pit is filled with earth;
  • in case of subsidence, the condition is met - the root collar should rise above the ground by 3-4 centimeters;
  • tying a tree to a stake with a soft cloth, several holes are made along the edge of the pit, through which the plant is abundantly watered.

Note! If there is a close occurrence of groundwater on the site, then a layer of fertilized soil is not simply poured into the pit, but a ridge mound is formed from it, a seedling is lowered onto it.

At this point, the spring and summer planting can be considered complete. At autumn works the final stage is mulching the trunk circle with non-acidic peat or compost, 10 cm thick.

Soil acidity

Mechanical and chemical composition soil. The roots of fruit trees need a suitable breeding ground and comfortable conditions.

The most important parameter for the farmer is the ratio of cations and anions in the soil solution (pH reaction). These elements determine the acidity of the soil, which is indicated by the pH value.

The reaction of the soil is divided into 3 types: acidic, neutral and alkaline. The most promising land is with a neutral pH of 6-7. But a weakly acidic soil (pH 5-6) and slightly alkaline (pH 7-8) is quite suitable for a number of garden crops.

Increased acidity can be observed in regions with excessive precipitation (for example, the Leningrad and Moscow districts). High alkaline levels are more common in hot, dry areas.

Fruit trees

If the summer resident is not sure about the acidity of the soil in his area, he can take measurements with a potentiometer or use litmus paper. It will tell you the condition of the soil and the composition of the weeds growing there:

  • for a neutral reaction, typical garden thistle, field bindweed, creeping wheatgrass, chamomile;
  • high acidity is indicated by white-bean, highlander, starlet, mullein, pickle, plantain, horsetail, sorrel.

Ameliorants will help improve the property of the earth. The acidity can be lowered by adding lime, and increased with gypsum.

Planting in clay soil

Some garden crops give preference to sandy soils, others take root well on clayey, others are not particularly demanding on this factor... Many fruit trees do not tolerate heavy clayey and depleted sandy soils. Sandy loam and loam are optimal for them.

The peculiarities of tree planting and the frequency of watering depend on the mechanical composition. The most difficult thing is for agrarians with clay soil. It is difficult for plant roots to breathe in such soil. The density of the soil contributes to the long-term retention of moisture, which in the rainy season provokes the development of fungal diseases.

Clay soil

Dandelions, bluegrass, cinquefoil, creeping buttercup are indicators of heavy texture. Having found such a "community" of weeds on your site, it is necessary to carry out sanding before planting the seedlings: during preliminary digging of the site, river sand is added to the soil.

Clay soil is called structureless - it has an almost homogeneous composition. This interferes with water permeability. Therefore, such soil requires careful digging and regular loosening. Making this soil structural will allow the introduction of organic fertilizers during the preparation of the site for planting seedlings.

On a note! The introduction (along with fertilizers) of chopped straw or sawdust into the pit for planting fruit trees will help bring the soil composition closer to the loam.

A novice summer resident, in order to grow a gorgeous garden on clay, should take into account the advice of experienced farmers:

  • digging a clay area before planting seedlings is carried out twice: six months before digging holes and again 10 days before the main work;
  • the depth of the hole under the tree is made less than in fertile soil;
  • in this case, a clay mash for the roots is not used;
  • it is better to cover a seedling dropped into a hole with imported soil mixed with fertilizers;
  • after planting a tree, the ground is not crushed too much so that it does not become compacted.

Growing fruit trees will be the more successful, the more attentively the summer resident treats the conditions of agricultural technology. Are important right choice places, taking into account the composition of the soil, determination optimal time and compliance with the peculiarities of planting. This is the only way to get a good harvest.

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees - in spring or autumn? The opinions of gardeners regarding the timing of the purchase and planting of seedlings differ. Someone argues that it is best to buy seedlings in the fall, since at this time of the year there is a large selection of plants in nurseries. It is also believed that dug-in seedlings will be better preserved on the site in the fall. It should also be borne in mind that in the spring during the planting period, fruit trees may die due to inconsistent weather. Often it gets too hot in May, and the seedlings suffer from such extreme temperature fluctuations.

Nevertheless, many experts believe that trees planted in autumn will not get strong enough before winter and will simply freeze in the cold season. Along with freezing, they can be severely damaged by mice and hares. Animals harm not only planted, but also buried seedlings.

Optimal planting period

In what month is it better to plant seedlings of plants should be produced from April 15 to May 15. If you want to plant seedlings in the fall, this should be done no later than October 15th.

It is better to plant shrubs immediately in the place where they will always grow. This is necessary so that the plants have time to take root before the start of the growing season.

Conditions for planting trees

In what month is it better to plant fruit tree seedlings? Planting dates should be limited to a relatively warm season, when the air temperature exceeds 0 ° C. This is necessary for better plant survival (the formation of roots through which they receive moisture and the necessary survival time is from 2 to 2.5 months.

Often, plants planted in the fall and survived the winter die from excess moisture, because they do not have time to get stronger. This occurs as a result of long standing melt and rainwater, which makes it difficult for oxygen to reach fragile roots. This happens especially often on clay soils. All of this indicates that trees are best planted in spring. Trees should be repotted at rest, when they have already shed their leaves.

Most often it happens that nurseries and gardeners who grow planting material, due to certain circumstances, dig up plants in the fall. Therefore, at this time, a fairly large selection of plants appears on the markets compared to spring.

Buying trees

Now that it has become clear in what month to plant seedlings of fruit trees, you can buy plants. Planting material should be chosen carefully, paying attention to their root system. The roots must be strong and well developed. It is best to buy a tree immediately with an earthy ball, while making sure it is moist enough is important. A seedling with a too dry root system may not take root and die. There should be no damage to the barrel. It is recommended to ask the seller where the seedling has the grafting site, as well as the root collar. It is important to get from him as much information as possible about the purchased fruit tree.

Transportation of fruit plants

How to properly transport purchased seedlings so as not to damage them? This question is especially relevant when buying large trees. The fruit tree must be carefully and neatly packed, paying special attention to the root system. Otherwise, when transported on the roof of a car, the plant will be severely damaged, and a good kindling for a fire will be delivered to the site instead of planting material.

The process of planting seedlings purchased in late autumn

In what month should seedlings of fruit trees be planted in the spring if they were purchased in late autumn? Such plants should be planted from about mid-April, when the soil has completely thawed out. To preserve trees until spring, they need to be dug in for the winter. This can be done both on site and in the subfield of the barn. Sprinkle the seedling with peat, earth, sand and sawdust. Before planting in a permanent place, the tree should not dry out or suffer from excess moisture. The plants should be kept in the shade, covered with boards so that the early spring rays of the sun do not burn them, and the buds do not begin to bloom before landing in a permanent place.

To dig in the plant, you need to make a hole about 50 cm deep. It is important that the south wall is beveled at an angle of 45 °. Seedlings should be laid on it. Then the roots are covered with earth, and more earth is sprinkled on top. The branches of the seedlings are tied and wrapped with branches of spruce branches (down with needles) to protect them from mice and other rodents. Simple elastic tights are also suitable for this.

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees in the spring, if they were dug in for the winter? It is imperative to wait for the ground to thaw. Frozen soil must not be removed from the trench, since it will not be possible to free the roots of the seedlings from it. When the weather is warm, the trees can be taken out, treated if desired with special agents, for example, a plant growth regulator, and transplanted to a permanent place.

What happens if it's wrong?

When to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring? The month and day for planting should be chosen, taking into account the recommendations given above, namely: in the spring the plants are planted from mid-April to mid-May, and in the fall - from September 15 to October 15. If you plant a seedling at a different time, it may die. The further life of the plant depends on the correct planting. For example, if planted in early autumn, they most likely will not survive the winter. Why? There may be 2 reasons: either the tree itself is not resistant to frost, or the planting of the seedling was done incorrectly. For example, during planting, the root collar was damaged, and the fruit plant threw all its strength into surviving, not having time to adapt to the cold. The degree of fruiting also depends on the depth of planting. Often, trees grow well but do not bear fruit. In this case, you need to look at the root collar. If it is below the soil, the excess soil must be removed by carefully digging in the plant and raising it to the required height.

The distance from the tree to the nearest building should be at least 5 m. The planting pit should be made of a large cylindrical shape. So the seedling will develop normally. The bottom of the pit must be loosened with a pitchfork. The tree must be planted strictly vertically, for this it is better to do it together. In the center of the planting hole, you can place a stake on the more windy side.

Where and when to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring? Plants such as apricots, peaches, cherries and grapes grow best on the south side. If the house is light, then the trees should be planted closer to its walls. They will additionally reflect heat to the trees. The apple tree can also be planted in the northern part.

In order for the first harvest to ripen faster on the fruit tree, at the very beginning of August, you can bend 1/3 of the length of the shoots into a ring at a distance of about 50 cm from each other and tie them up. They should be bent to the side where there is good lighting. Next spring shoots need to be untied. This method activates budding and increases the frost resistance of the fruit tree.

Tree transplant rules

When to plant fruit tree seedlings? It is better to replant plants in rainy or cloudy weather. If the weather is sunny and dry during the period of the work, the planted plants must be covered so that they are in the shade. In this case, planting success will be ensured: the plant will not get burned and will grow well.

To grow beautiful garden not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It is enough to choose the right seedlings and correctly arrange them on the site. Planting of fruit trees and shrubs is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn. Seedlings must not only be properly planted in open ground, but also choose the most suitable place for them with good soil, sufficient lighting and protection from drafts.

This article describes in detail the features of planting fruit trees and shrubs, the rules for selecting and preparing a site, and photos and videos will help to carry out this procedure correctly.

Planting fruit trees

Well maintained orchard is not only a wonderful decoration for your summer cottage, but also a rich source of vitamins.

It will take a lot of effort and time to grow it like that. And our article will also equip you with the necessary baggage of knowledge and rules that will help in the cultivation of an orchard.

rules

Sometimes it happens that the seedlings were of high quality, and the pits were prepared on time and appropriately, and the garden still did not start growing. Most often this comes from the ignorance of novice gardeners of the rules for placing seedlings. It is their strict observance that guarantees that all your efforts and costs invested in the future garden will not be wasted.

Landing fruit trees and shrubs held like this(picture 1):

  1. The soil is prepared in advance, for example, for spring planting - in the fall, and provides for loosening the soil and applying fertilizers.
  2. Immediately before transferring to the ground, the seedlings must be placed in water for several hours so that the root system has the opportunity to make a certain amount of moisture.
  3. Damaged or too long roots should be trimmed smoothly.
  4. The roots of the seedling should be freely placed in the hole.
  5. It is not enough just to dig a hole of the right size: you also need to loosen its bottom and lay a layer of compost filled with fertilizer on it.
  6. It is necessary to drive a support stake into the dug hole from the leeward side.
  7. The soil that remains from digging a hole is mixed with compost, mineral and organic fertilizers, and sand. This substrate is used to fill the hole after planting a tree.
  8. The seedlings are placed strictly vertically in the hole. If the tree is grafted, then the grafting site should be located above ground level at a height of 10 cm.
  9. During planting, the pit is filled with prepared soil evenly, compacting it and carrying out intermediate watering.

Figure 1. Rules for planting seedlings

After planting the tree, it is necessary to form a watering circle. To do this, around the entire circumference of the hole, a mound is made in the form of a roller 5-7 cm high, and the trunk circle itself is mulched with organic matter (rotted manure, straw, raw compost). The planted tree must be watered abundantly and tied to a peg.

Peculiarities

When planning to lay a garden, you should start by cultivating the soil in the selected area: deep loosening of the soil and removing weeds, because in loose soil, seedlings grow quickly and begin to bear fruit much earlier. Then you need to decide on the size of the holes.

Note: For annual plants dig holes 50-60 cm deep and wide, for two-year-olds you will need a hole 110-120 cm wide and 60-70 cm deep.If the soil is heavy, then add 15-20 cm to all sizes.

If the soil has elevated level acidity, it must be calcified. For fertilization, organic and ash fertilizers are used. It is not recommended to use fresh or half-rotted manure, because if there is a lack of air in the soil, it decomposes and releases harmful substances that poison the entire plant.

Where to plant fruit trees on the site

When choosing a place for fruit crops, they pay attention to the relief, the nature of the soil, the depth of the groundwater, the possibility of protection from the wind. On his summer cottage give preference to a place with good illumination, which is not flooded by groundwater. So, the maximum height of standing groundwater for apple and pear is 1.5 m, for cherry and plum - 1 m.If the groundwater is high, drainage will have to be done (Figure 2).


Figure 2. Placement of fruit trees and shrubs on the site

It is known that gardens grow best on gentle slopes, but flat planting is not so effective. It is not recommended to lay a garden in hollows due to stagnation of cold air and excess water in them.

From which side of the world to plant fruit trees

An important role is played not only by the fact when to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring or autumn, but also the side of the world where the garden will be located.

Experienced gardeners advise planting fruit trees on the south, south-east and south-west side of the site.

Landing types

The correct arrangement of plants in the garden, that is, the type of planting, is the most directly affects the survival rate of seedlings. Therefore, it is so important to imagine it in every detail before you start laying a garden. It is also necessary to calculate the distance between seedlings. The interval between them should be no less than the height of mature trees. It is in such conditions that plants will be more efficiently pollinated and bear fruit. It is also known that more fruits are formed on the side branches, therefore, the crowns of fruit trees should be shaped so that they grow wide (Figure 3).


Figure 3. The main types of planting of fruit trees: 1 - in groups, 2 - central arrangement of bouquets, 3 - checkerboard, 4 - row planting, 5 - row planting of different species, 6 - central planting of shrubs

However, you should be aware that in a too sparse arrangement, fruit trees are more susceptible to sunburn and frostbite, so they grow much worse. In this case, so-called "seals" are planted between tall fruit crops, that is, undersized fruit crops, for example, cherries or plums. They are not as durable as apple and pear trees, and therefore stop fruiting after 20 years of life and can be removed, since the crowns of tall trees by that time have already had time to fully form and grow.

When to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring

Timely planting of seedlings of fruit trees in the spring is important not only for their survival rate, but also for the subsequent growth and development of plants. The question arises when it is better to plant fruit trees and shrubs in the spring.

Since changes in nature occur very quickly, the air temperature rises, the soil dries out quickly, so early spring is considered the best time for the procedure, although in the southern regions it can be done in autumn. However, a crop such as cherry, when planted in autumn, often freezes, so it is necessary to plant it only in spring. Moreover, the earlier the tree is planted, the better and faster it will take root.

How to choose a landing site

When choosing a place for placing fruit crops, you should pay attention to several factors: the depth of groundwater, illumination and the presence of drafts. So, groundwater must lie at a depth of at least 1 m.Otherwise, trees will have to be placed on hills with a height of 60-120 cm.

It is known that fruit trees need a lot sunlight and heat, so it would be wise to choose a site that is well lit by the sun, preferably on the south side of the site. In addition, it should be borne in mind that young trees are afraid of drafts, so it is necessary to try to place the young garden under the protection of buildings. Experienced gardeners recommend not planting seedlings in the same place where fruit trees used to grow. The territory of the wasteland left after the uprooting of the garden must be sown with meadow or leguminous grasses for several years or completely change the soil in the pits.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring time frame

Spring planting should be carried out as much as possible early dates, the definition of which depends specifically on the seedling and weather conditions.

In any case, the work should be completed before the buds bloom on the trees (seedlings). The survival rate and development of culture in the future depends on this.

Planting fruit trees in spring: video

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring and how to do it correctly, you can see in the video clip. Its author will give valuable practical advice on boarding, which will definitely be useful for beginners and experienced gardeners.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn

While spring planting is most commonly practiced, fall planting also has its benefits (Figure 4). For example, in the fall, it is much more profitable to purchase seedlings, since there is an opportunity to see the fruits that a certain variety gives. In addition, seedlings planted in the fall do not require much trouble, watering in dry weather will be enough. Their roots will continue to grow until the onset of stable frosts, which means that such a tree will grow earlier in the spring.


Figure 4. Rules for planting fruit crops in autumn

Most often, autumn procedures are practiced in the southern regions, where young plants are not threatened with hypothermia due to mild winters. However, you should remember about the vagaries of nature and understand the risk to the growth of autumn plantings. Severe frosts and wind, ice and snowfalls can not only lead to damage to seedlings, but also completely destroy them. Therefore, experts advise against planting such fruit crops in the fall as pear, apple, plum, apricot, peach, sweet cherry, almond and cherry.

Timing

Optimal timing autumn planting they call the end of September - October, and in the southern regions - from October to mid-November. However, you should be aware that these terms are rather arbitrary, since they depend on weather conditions.

Therefore, it is still better to be guided by the condition of the seedlings. The best time for planting is the dormant period, which occurs after the end of the leaf fall.

Gardens are laid in areas with different topography, groundwater levels and lighting. However, there are certain rules that must be followed when planting a garden, regardless of its location.

It must be remembered that improperly planted trees do not take root well and grow, which can lead to their death.

rules

The planting of fruit trees is carried out in accordance with certain rules, which not only ensure the survival of plants, but also improve the volume of fruiting in the future.

The basic rules for planting fruit and berry crops include several important points (Figure 5):

  1. The pits must be prepared two weeks before the planned planting. Moreover, their size depends on the quality of the soil, but should not be less than 50-60 cm in depth and width.
  2. When digging holes, the soil is laid out in two parts: the upper fertile layer and the lower, less fertile, separately. The bottom layer is enriched nutrients by adding compost to it. The use of manure for this purpose is not recommended, since even in a rotted state it can damage the bare roots of plants.
  3. The bottom of the pit must be loosened to improve air access to the roots of the plant. If the soil is sandy, then a layer of clay 15 cm thick is laid on the bottom of the pit, which will retain the necessary moisture.
  4. A few days before planting, the pits are filled with fertilizers (2-4 buckets of humus, phosphorus - 200 g, potassium chloride - 100 g, wood ash- 1 kg per pit 60-100 cm in size). All fertilizers are mixed with the soil, which is intended for filling the hole. If the hole was dug and filled in the fall, then this work is not carried out in the spring.
  5. Before placing the seedling in the center of the pit, it is necessary to drive a stake 5-6 cm thick and 1.3-1.5 m high from the leeward side.
  6. The planting material must be carefully examined, all damaged or diseased branches and roots must be cut off.
  7. You can keep the seedling in a container with water for 1-2 days so that its root system accumulates a sufficient amount of moisture for quick engraftment. It is also recommended to dip the root in a mash of clay and manure (clay, mullein, water in a ratio of 1: 2: 5), which will ensure good contact of the roots with the soil.

Figure 5. Features of planting fruit trees

Immediately before planting, a mound of soil filled with fertilizer is poured onto the bottom of the pit, then a seedling is placed on it from the north side of the stake and the roots are straightened. The hole is covered with a fertile layer of earth, removed when digging the hole, compacting it and regularly shaking the seedling. This is done so that voids do not form between the roots. Ultimately, the root collar of the seedling should be slightly above the soil level in the garden, so that after watering it will be equal to it.

After planting along the diameter of the pit, the soil is poured with a roller of small height, and the circle itself is watered with 5-6 buckets of water. The tree itself must be tied to the stake.

The trunk circle must be covered with organic material to prevent the formation of a surface crust and help retain moisture.

Peculiarities

When choosing seedlings, it will be useful to know their age, because this significantly affects the survival rate of trees. For example, apple and pear seedlings should be 2-3 years old, while cherry and plum seedlings should be 2 years old. When deciding on varieties, heed the advice of experienced gardeners.

Note: Place the plants in the garden in rows at a certain distance from each other. So, pears and apple trees are planted at a distance of 6-8 meters, and cherries and plums - at a distance of 3 meters between tall fruit trees and 3-4 meters between rows. You can also occupy the aisles with currant or gooseberry bushes. It will be great if the rows of the garden are located from east to west. So they are better illuminated by the sun in the morning.

To mark up a plot for a garden, you first need to draw its plan, where to provide for the boundaries and arrangement of rows, paths and flower beds (Figure 6). On the ground, the breakdown is carried out using a rope, tape measure and pegs. The rope is needed to determine and mark the distances that will be observed during landing. It stretches along the future row, and with the help of knots or scraps of fabric, you indicate the landing sites. Here it is necessary to ensure that the rows are even. It is not only beautiful, but also easy to care for.


Figure 6. Scheme for placing trees and shrubs

It is recommended to tie the planted trees to stakes to protect them from excessive swinging. To do this, use a regular washcloth, which must be fixed on a support in the form of a figure eight so that the seedling does not damage its tender young bark about the stake.

In addition, after planting a tree, you need to prune its branches. In this case, strong shoots must be shortened by half, and weak ones - a little less. As a result of trimming, the ends of the skeletal branches should end in the same horizontal plane. The central shoot is cut so that it is 20-30 cm higher than all the others. Both the lateral and central branches are cut above the outer bud.

Shrubs can be planted both in spring and autumn. All work begins in the spring after the snow melts and the soil thaws, and in the fall - before the start of frost.

rules

Planting shrubs, as well as planting trees, is carried out according to certain rules (Figure 7). First of all, they start with the preparation of the soil and planting material, and also determine the compatibility of the soil and the selected plants. If the soil does not meet the requirements of a particular shrub, it is necessary to carry out a set of agrotechnical measures to improve the soil.

Shrubs are planted in specially prepared pits, the depth of which should correspond to the height of the plant's root system. In this case, attention should be paid to the level of occurrence of groundwater. If they get too close to the ground surface, landing pit should be 15-20 cm deeper than standard in order to be able to arrange drainage. A layer of soil is poured at the bottom of the pit, then a bush is planted.

Note: It is necessary to ensure that during planting the roots of the plant are spread out and covered with earth. It is recommended to fill a hole with a seedling 5-10 cm above the general soil level, however, the root collar should not be buried in the ground.

The planted plant must be watered, it is possible with the addition of growth stimulants. Further care consists in feeding, watering and cutting the branches.

Peculiarities

Planting shrubs in the fall is carried out taking into account the characteristics of certain species. So, for raspberries there is no need to prepare special holes, since its annual seedlings are planted in fertilized soil under a shovel. But for currants and gooseberries, shallow pits are needed. These plants are best planted at two years of age.

Before moving into the ground, the branches of shrubs must be cut so that their length from the roots is 25 to 30 cm. This procedure will help reduce evaporation, and in currants and gooseberries, it stimulates the branching of the bush. Before planting, it is recommended to dip the root system of the bushes in a soil or clay mash to protect it from drying out.


Figure 7. Features of planting shrubs

Rows of shrubs are marked with a rope, placing them parallel to rows of trees in the aisles. If the planting of shrubs is located separately, then the distance between the rows and in them is one and a half meters. The exception is raspberries, which can be planted at intervals of 70-80 cm. The land around the planted plants must be tamped and watered at the rate of 1 bucket of water for 4-5 seedlings. After absorbing moisture, you can mulch the planting circle with peat or humus.

Note: It is important to know that raspberry bushes should not be planted deeper than in the mother area. But the seedlings of currants and gooseberries, on the contrary, must be planted deeper than before. This way they can develop additional roots and grow better.

As for strawberries and strawberries, these plants are planted in a slightly different way, since they are herbaceous. So, strawberries are best planted from late July to early September, because late planting will not allow the plant to root well before winter arrives. Planting strawberries is practiced in the aisles of fruit trees or in a separate area. In this case, strawberries are planted in rows, observing an interval of 20-25 cm between bushes and rows. After every three rows, it is recommended to leave a half-meter wide passage. If there is not enough space, you can plant strawberries in the aisles of fruit trees or berry bushes at a distance of one and a half meters from them. With such a planting, the plants are arranged in a row with an interval of 25-30 cm. It is important to ensure that the apical bud of the strawberry is not covered with earth. Watering rate - 1 bucket for 15-20 plants. To keep the moisture longer, and the surface layer of the soil is not covered with a crust, it is recommended to mulch the plantings with fine manure or peat.

Where to plant shrubs on the site

The indisputable advantage of shrubs is the fact that they not only produce tasty and healthy berries, but can also serve as a wonderful hedge. The choice of a place on the site for planting shrubs is carried out specifically for each species. For example, currants prefer moist and well-lit places (between two fruit trees, near a fence or wall of a house). But the dog rose does not tolerate too moist and salty soil, it loves light and warmth.

Gooseberries are also afraid of excess moisture, but they tolerate short-term drought well. So, the choice of a permanent place for planting berry bushes should be taken seriously, since the bushes grow quickly, and transplant big plant much more difficult.

Landing types

There are several types of shrub planting:

  • Tree and shrub group;
  • Alley;
  • Hedge.

The tree-shrub group combines several types of plants (both trees and shrubs), located separately on the site. For this type of planting, plants are selected with similar agrotechnical conditions and according to their compatibility with each other, the shape of the crown, the timing of flowering, etc.

An alley is a group of tall shrubs located in a row at the same distance from each other, for example, along a garden path.

If you plant shrubs in one line so that their crowns are closed, you can get hedge that looks much more aesthetically pleasing than any fence.

Planting shrubs in the fall

Most often, the autumn planting of shrubs is practiced in middle lane our country, including the Moscow region. At this time, you can plant such berry bushes: white, red and black currants, chokeberry, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn.

As a rule, autumn planting begins in mid-September, when the life processes of the plant slow down.

Landing dates

In central Russia, the autumn planting of shrubs takes place from mid-September to almost the end of October. In the northern regions, the planting dates end in early October, and in the southern regions, on the contrary, the dates are extended - until the second decade of November.


Figure 8. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs

However, the main indicator of the most optimal time for autumn planting is the onset of the dormant period of the plant. It is possible to determine it at the end of the leaf fall. It is important to know that seedlings dug out before the beginning of the biological dormancy period are frozen in winter, primarily due to immature shoots.

Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs when planting

Experienced gardeners have long noticed that some fruit trees and shrubs feel uncomfortable next to other plants or, on the contrary, successfully coexist with them. In the first case, plant roots can be at the same depth and interfere with each other. There is a situation when one of the plants releases substances into the soil that suppress the development of others. Therefore, when planning the planting of fruit and berry plants, do not be too lazy to look at the table of their compatibility (Figure 8).

For example, apple trees can get along with almost any garden crops, except for mountain ash. Red and black currants do not tolerate neighborhoods with each other and with raspberries, since their root system oppresses the neighboring plant. For this reason, it is recommended to plant raspberries in a separate area. Gooseberries cannot coexist with black currants, and they are not friendly with raspberries either.

You will find more information on the compatibility of fruit and berry crops in the video.

Distance to the border when planting fruit trees

When planting fruit trees on your site, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the legislative acts of tree planting in order to maintain good neighborly relations. So, the norms state that the distance from perennial plant to the border of the site should be at least 3 meters for low trees.

The larger the diameter of the crown, the greater this distance becomes, because the branches and roots of a tree that extend beyond your site, neighbors can rightfully remove without your consent. Bushes can be planted at a distance of 1 meter from the border, and plums, peaches, cherries - 2 meters.

Autumn - optimal time planting seedlings with an open root system or with a bare root. Planting time without reference to climatic zones - from the moment the foliage falls naturally to the period of freezing of the soil. Having bought seedlings with foliage, immediately tear off all the leaves from it to reduce the loss of moisture through them and dry out the seedling itself.

In autumn, well-frost-resistant varieties of apple trees, seedlings of pears, cherries, currant bushes, gooseberries, raspberries. The root system does not have a dormant period, and by the spring the seedlings will have time to take root. If you did not manage to plant the seedlings before the frost, send them to the basement, packing the roots in a plastic bag with a small amount of sawdust or sand. Or dig in, for which you dig a groove 30-40 cm deep, deeper to the north, in which you put the seedlings with the crown to the south and sprinkle with loose earth to the tips of the branches. In the trench, the seedlings are stored until they are completely thawed.

What fruit trees are planted in spring

Trees with an open root system are not frost-resistant (these include some varieties of apples and pears, thermophilic apricots, peaches, and some varieties of plums and cherries) are better. It is better to prepare pits for spring planting in the fall. Then you will start planting seedlings immediately after thawing the earth, while the soil is saturated with moisture. The period of spring planting of trees ends with the appearance of the first leaves.

The basic rule of planting is that the earlier you plant, the easier the seedling will adapt and the more likely it will take root well.

V high humidity plant the tree on mounds, prepared ahead of time, in the fall. Their disembarkation is carried out unambiguously in the spring.

Planting dates for seedlings with a closed system and in containers

The planting dates for seedlings with an earthen clod (closed root system) are more extended. In spring, the planting period is extended until the onset of hot days, if planting is carried out in cloudy weather, and the crowns of seedlings with leaves are shaded by throwing on white gauze.

Seedlings with a closed root system need abundant watering within a month after planting.

In autumn, seedlings with a clod of earth can be planted as soon as the heat subsides, without waiting for the foliage to fall off. The seedlings will require watering and shading. Another option is to tear off the foliage on the tree. Planting dates in the fall last until the onset of frost.
Dates for planting seedlings in containers - from early spring until late autumn. On hot, dry days, it is better to refrain from planting. The crowns of the planted fruit trees are shaded, the seedlings are regularly watered.