When to open roses - each grower decides for himself, based on the experience of previous years and the type of shelter. But it is more important not even when to open roses, but HOW to open them. The unanimous opinion of professionals is that it is necessary to open roses in stages, slowly, as they covered.

I follow a rule found in the literature on rose care, even at the very beginning of my fascination with these gorgeous flowers.

Cover as late as possible in autumn - and open as early as possible in spring.

This year, however, as in the past, the spring is early, there is no snow on the site, there will be no significant frosts, and not big frosts, roses without young leaves are not afraid, so you can already remove the film if it was and is under it still non-woven fabric.

For those roses that were covered with frames, I open the sides completely - first from the south and west sides. Every year I am convinced that this (air-dry) shelter is the best. The bushes stand with green trunks at full height.

Gradually, by April, I open them from all sides and in this form - "under the roof", they stand with me until mid-April.

For those single-standing bushes that were covered with boxes and covered with foil - I completely remove the foil. I raise the box for air access, and if I want to remove it completely, I close the green stems with spruce branches from the sun.

Those roses that were simply dug in with a heap of earth and leaves - I'm not touching it yet. It will be possible to rake the earth near the trunk later, in cloudy weather, and I will also cover it from the sun and wind with spruce branches.

I remove the pins, with the help of which I bent them to the ground, and for some time they still stand with me, covered from above by a raised cardboard. Two weeks later, in cloudy weather, I remove the cardboard and straighten and tie them to the supports.

Our wind will quickly dry up, and the sun will burn, branches not yet accustomed to the open air. The roots of the roses will begin to work when the ground warms up. And the sprouts that appeared early will stretch out the juices from the not matured stems.

Therefore, the main task in spring is to keep the roses protected from the sun and wind as long as possible. To keep them cool and have access to air.

Around the roots - I move the leaves, spruce branches, and a little later I completely remove it so that the earth warms up faster.

Not very beautiful, of course, the area looks like where you can already clean everything, put things in order, but the health of the roses is more important.

It is advisable to plant new roses in the ground.

Planting new roses is the time. It's good if you have prepared in the fall landing pits... It will be easy. Now the bushes can be planted and covered from the sun with the same non-woven material on arcs. And if there are no holes yet, this should be done as soon as the ground allows.

If you like patios - roses, the so-called, which are now sold in huge quantities in chain stores in pots, then now is the time to buy them so that you can immediately transplant them into the ground in the country. Pinch off the buds, divide (they are 3-4 in a pot), be sure to cover with a cut 5-liter bottle with open lid or spunbond on arcs. In the second half of summer, they will bloom profusely.

From clematis, I remove not only the film, but also the non-woven material, but I do not dig it up to the kidneys yet. In varieties of 2 groups of pruning, it is advisable not to open the lashes to the sun yet, let them dry out a little and adapt to the air.

With the onset of spring, it's time to "wake up" the queens of our gardens - roses. Proper care of roses requires timely action in the correct sequence.

Spring care for roses begins with the removal of the winter shelter, then a thorough examination, pruning and treatment from pests and diseases. But first things first.

When to open roses after winter?

In regions where the temperature is below -5 ° C, all roses are covered. It is necessary to open the roses on time, the bushes can vanish. As soon as the snow begins to actively melt after winter, bypass grooves should be made so that flooding does not destroy the plants.

When a constant positive temperature is established, we remove the cover from the bushes. You should start only with daytime airing for 2-4 hours. To ensure good circulation, it is sufficient to raise the cover.

When the soil thaws to 15 cm, you can only open it from 1 side (north or east). To avoid burns, the cover is completely removed after 2-3 days. It is favorable to choose a calm day, cloudy, but dry.

For better adaptation to the spring sun, it is better to shade the shrubs after opening. Suitable: loose agrofibre, thick paper and spruce branches.

The earth should dry out after the snow thaws, then we proceed to the spring breaking of the bushes. Do it gently with your hands or a stream warm water so as not to break the young shoots.

If roses are grafted, this is done with a brush and a small rag. Lubricate the site of the grafting with a solution of 1% copper sulfate... Thoroughly loosen the soil around the rose bush. If there are no young shoots yet, they will appear a little later. The intertwining roses must be fixed on the supports.

Problems of rose bushes in spring

After opening and undoing the roses, we carefully examine each branch. Various problems can be found on roses in the spring; they can freeze out, weed out or become infected.

Caring for roses includes treatment and care:

• The dark brown color of the branches means freezing, there is only one way out - to remove. When the bush freezes completely, there is no need to rush to throw it away. It is better to wait for May, with a living root new buds will begin to grow.
  There is a great way to test the "life of a bush". If a "live" seedling, it is firmly held in the ground, and moving a dried bush, it will stagger.
• In late autumn, a sharp warming provokes the movement of juices. With the onset of frost, the juice will freeze and cause cracks in the branches. They will not be noticeable on small plants up to 15 cm.
  Spring temperature drops lead to the formation of harmful bacteria in the cracks. Branches with large cracks should be removed, and small ones should be immediately brushed with potassium permanganate (bright pink) or 1% copper sulfate solution. Then, it is imperative to smear the wound with garden pitch, this will help protect it from diseases.
• Mold appears on the roses if the seedlings are not treated in the fall. Be sure to erase the mold, and the infected areas should be washed. iron vitriol(with copper soap).
• If it's too late to remove the cover from rose bushes, they vomit. Stem cancer (burn) may develop on the branches. It is easy to spot by the reddish-brown spots. Towards the center, they become darker, they can quickly infect all the stems. The diseased branches are cut off, and the infected pieces must be burned. Then treat the stems with a preparation containing copper.

If the whole shrub is in the spots, it cannot be saved. If 1-2 branches with small spots are burned, leave the shoots and let them bloom before pruning in the summer.

First pruning of roses

The next step in caring for roses will be pruning the branches, the splendor of the flowering depends on it. Obligatory pruning in spring and autumn, if desired, in summer.

Spring pruning rules:

• Every year in the spring, the branches are pruned until the buds bloom.
• Use a sharp pruner.
• It is necessary to cut the branches into a "ring" to the base, leaving no hemp.
• Pruning of branches is carried out at an angle of 45o, retreating by about 5 mm from the outer bud. So there will be no thickening of the rose bush.
• When forming a beautiful shrub, it is better to leave 5-6 strong, not yet old branches, the rest should be cut off on a "ring".
• Damaged or dry branches that grow inside the bush are cut back to healthy wood. We remove branches that are more than 4 years old, they are considered old.
• Large cuts on the branches need to be lubricated with brilliant green, you can use a garden pitch, otherwise there may be an infection. We must disinfect the secateurs after cutting each shrub. Wild young shoots that appear after grafting should be cut off.

The length of the pruning depends on the variety of roses and the climate:

• bush in cold climates - 30 cm, in warm - 10 cm;
• high, floribundas - 70 cm (50 cm);
• tea rooms - 100 cm (80 cm).

Climbing and stamping rose bushes do not require massive pruning. Only diseased or fattening branches, as well as those growing inside the bush, need to be removed in the spring.

The final stage of rose care in April will be hilling.

In the spring, pruning is much more important than in the fall. When working in early autumn, the plants overwinter more easily.

May

After the roses are open, inspected and pruned, you can proceed directly to the prevention of diseases and protection from pests. During this period, the first spring feeding is carried out.

Pest control

After circumcision in May, they spend preventive measures to combat diseases and various pests... The soil around the seedlings is sprayed with copper oxychloride or its equivalent.

In summer, after the 1st flowering from powdery mildew and rot will be helped by treatment with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

In case of severe damage by the fungus (more than 2 branches), the bush must be burned, it is impossible to save it.

A couple of weeks after 1 spraying with vitriol, rose bushes are treated with insecticides and fungicides. it reliable protection seedlings from rust, aphids, and powdery mildew. Spraying is repeated every 2 weeks, especially after 1 and before 2 waves of flowering.

Then they start cutting off the branches to form a beautiful bush. It is an active plant growth stimulant.

Pruning for all shrubs is similar, shaping is different in terms and methods of carrying out. Roses that bloom early, including park and English roses, should be pruned in April before the buds are in full bloom. ground cover and climbing plants - in May after blooming flowers.

Anyone who plans to use rose petals (for cooking or cosmetics), then it is not necessary to use fungicides.

Garter bushes

Many types of rose bushes require supports. After about a week, when the soil is cultivated and the buds begin to grow, you can tie up the branches of the plants. It is better to choose high metal supports, fixing the branches with a soft wire without damaging them.

Spring feeding

Let's figure out how to feed roses in spring. Pruning is the impetus for the rapid growth of new shoots. Leaves appear, future flowers are formed. For active growth, plants need vital nutrients containing nitrogen. it the best time for the first feeding of plants.

Until the heat was established, the earth did not warm up. It is difficult for pink roots to assimilate nitrogen in cold soil. Therefore, at first, the ground is well watered with warm water around the bush. Having departed from the trunk about 15-20 cm, you can apply mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, etc.).

It is imperative to apply fertilizers to wet soil strictly according to the instructions.

If fertilizers are in granules, you need to loosen the soil with their addition, then pour warm water. Liquid fertilizers are better absorbed by plants, they are first dissolved in water and introduced into the soil.

The main feeding is done in the spring, this is a guarantee of good health and a spectacular flowering of the queen of the garden. If fertilizers are long-lasting, after the 1st flowering, you can feed again.

Fertilizers for roses must contain the following minerals:

• nitrogen;
• magnesium;
• phosphorus;
• potassium.

Overdosing when caring for roses can be dangerous. For example, a high nitrogen concentration makes the plant vulnerable to fungal diseases. Be sure to strictly adhere to the instructions, they are always written on the package.

For a beautiful bloom in summer period you need organic. 7 days after mineral fertilizers 0.5 buckets of rotted cow dung are introduced under each seedling, mixed with the soil, and watered with water.

A low concentration solution of mullein (1x10) or chicken manure (1x20) is suitable.

Showers in a rainy spring can wash away all the top dressing. Therefore, after a couple of weeks, the soil is re-mineralized with complex fertilizers: ammonium nitrate or urea.

Calcium nitrate has a beneficial effect. In the evening, it is sprayed with plants and the surrounding soil when it is warm without rain.

The listed methods of plant nutrition from 2 years. Only young bushes are not fertilized if planting was carried out in fertilized soil.

Mulching rose bushes

The final stage is soil mulching. After fertilization, it is necessary to maintain the microclimate of the nutrient soil. This will exclude the leaching of nutrients.

Experts advise to add 1 bucket of rotted compost under each bush, then sprinkle the soil around the seedling with mulch. You can use peat or peat compost. Mulching the soil protects and enriches it, significantly improving the quality of plant nutrition. Other materials for mulching are also suitable - pebbles, pebbles. They will retain the necessary moisture and prevent weeds from appearing.

The bases of the bushes should not be touched with mulch

In its homeland, the rose is evergreen shrub... The growing season for flowers does not stop, it only stops for a short period of time. In conditions middle lane the rest period extends over several months.

At good care bushes can grow for about 10 years. The blooming of roses lasts from the end of June and lasts until the first frost. The shelter protects the bushes from the cold and creates conditions for rapid growth in spring.

Winter is a real test for roses, the bushes are damaged not only from the cold, but also vomited. Some varieties of roses may die even when the temperature drops to -3 degrees. To prevent this from happening, the rose bushes are sheltered for the winter. From proper cover and the timely removal of protection from plants depends on abundant flowering, growth and development of bushes.

In the spring, growers are often late with the removal of protective shelters. The dormant period for roses ends with the first warm spring days. The buds swell, but the roots remain dormant.

When the shoots become dense, juicy, the buds are saturated with moisture, you can begin to remove the shelters.

The shelter is not removed immediately. Plants first get used to it when ventilated and only after 2 weeks the protective material is removed. This happens from the beginning to the end of April (depending on the region, weather). When warm, early spring the shelter can be removed in late March - early April.

In the first weeks, the plants are covered with a non-woven material and only when the weather is warm, the bushes are completely released and, if necessary, are completely straightened out.

When the soil has melted to a depth of 20-30 centimeters, the protective cover can be removed.

Attention! It is forbidden to remove the shelter in the presence of snow!

Temperature indicators at night should not fall below -2 degrees. When removing the shelter, the roses are first covered with foil or spunbond.

Daily temperature readings should be kept at at least 10-15 degrees.

When the air warms up, the film is removed and the rose can grow without additional protection from the sun and cold.

In the Moscow region, overwintering of rose bushes is much worse than in warm regions. Due to the short summer, the bushes do not have time to fully prepare for the winter period.

The bark of the shoots is more watery, friable. Nutrients often not enough. Therefore, plants need good shelter.

In the Urals

Strong, powerful bushes endure winter best in the Urals. Preparation for wintering is carried out from mid-August. Before the autumn shelter, the bushes are covered with a dense film for a month, this reduces the accumulation of moisture. Shelter is made at the first freezing of the soil. For the winter, the plants are covered with foliage, peat, spruce branches, and on top with a film.

The shelter is removed from the beginning to the end of April during warm spring and complete melting of the snow cover. To protect them from frost, the bushes are covered with non-woven fabric. The material is removed in warm weather, and returned at night. Full removal of protection occurs at the beginning of summer.

In Siberia

The best shelter for Siberian frosts is spruce branches or boxes. On top of the inverted box, 2 layers of cardboard and roofing material are laid out. When the air temperature drops below -8 degrees, the ventilated openings are closed with spruce branches or foil.

The shelter can be filmed in the third decade of April. To protect against spring freezing, roses are covered with spunbond until the air and soil are completely warmed up.

Shelter should be taken care of from mid-August. Flowers are covered with turf soil from the garden, for each plant there are 1-3 buckets of soil (depending on the age and size of the bush). Before the autumn shelter, all young, immature shoots are pinched.
Rose is watered with solution double superphosphate(300 grams per bucket of water). Watering is done around the bush. On square meter goes about a liter of solution. The red leaves then turn green. The plant is almost ready for wintering.

A month before the shelter, you need to start picking off the leaves from the bushes, moving from the bottom up. When hiding on the plant, there should be no foliage, flowers, buds. At the end of autumn, the base of the bushes is sprinkled with sand. Treatment is carried out for various diseases. Ripe stems easily tolerate cold down to -8 degrees.

Before freezing, the base of the bush is closed with a leaf and peat mixture to a height of about 10 centimeters. The lashes bend down at 5 degrees Celsius. After the first frost, the roses can be covered with a protective cover.

When the temperature rises above 0 degrees and the snow is actively melting, it must be cleaned from the shelters. Vent grooves are created near the landings to remove excess moisture. The lapnik is removed. The ends of the shelters are slightly opened, the bushes are ventilated. Then the shelter is closed, there is a hole on top for ventilation.

The area around the roses, covered with soil for the winter and covered with sawdust and spruce branches, is loosening. The edge of the insulation is raised to ventilate the plants.

Removal is done when the soil warms up in the evening, otherwise the young bark can get sunburn.

First, the ends of the shelter open. The east or north side opens in a day.

On the third day, the cover can be removed completely. Roses are darkened by any non-woven material or spruce branches. The shelter remains for 2 weeks, until warm weather sets in.

Temperature indicators at the same time at night should not fall below five degrees.
From under the bushes, you need to scoop out and remove excess soil, sawdust, peat from the site. With strong swelling of the kidneys, spraying with protective preparations is performed.

To protect the plants from the cold, an additional layer of snow is added and poured onto the ground cover, climbing and standard types of roses.

Polyanthus, hybrid tea, floribunda roses are afraid of the cold and require a dense cover with fluffy snow throughout the winter.

Since miniature, standard, climbing, Pernstian, ground cover species of roses, when covered, were covered with earth and covered with leaves, sawdust, spruce branches for the winter, they need to loosen the soil near the bush in spring.

Then the shelter returns to its place again, and there are slots along the edges for the passage of air. When the soil warms up (after a week), the frame shelter opens on one side.

After a couple of days, the shelter is removed.

Hybrid tea varieties after removing the shelter, a film is covered over the frame, this will protect the plant from the cold, accelerate the growth and flowering of the plant.

Climbing roses climb on the supports after the establishment of warm weather. With a sharp cold snap, the bushes are covered with spunbond.

What cover roses

Roses can be covered with spruce branches, fresh sawdust, pine needles, peat, dry leaves, boxes, foil, cut off with large plastic bottles.

For sheltering roses, you can not use: thick film, old hardwood sawdust, moss, straw, hay, manure. Increased dampness leads to decay of roots and death.

The covering layer should be thin, otherwise the bush will start to squeak. Such a shelter will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from the cold and bright sun.

After opening the roses, it is necessary to prune. Cold-damaged and dry branches and leaves are removed. The pruning for each grade must be individual. After these procedures, the roses are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate.

Severely frozen areas located near the vaccination site are removed.

Slightly damaged shoots are washed with a soft brush:

• potassium permanganate solution (1 gram per 4 liters of water),
• iodine (1 milliliter per 400 milliliters of water)
• a solution of copper sulfate (10 grams per liter of water).

Places of cuts are processed with garden varnish.

If the root system is severely damaged, the plant is dug up and removed from the site.

Bushes under the root are watered with warm water. After 3-5 days, fertilizers are applied to the soil, hilling of the bushes is carried out.

How to keep bushes from damping out

The bush with high air humidity, and the soil begins to rot (it is affected by rot) due to improper or untimely removal of the protective cover. A dead or frozen shoot leads to the death of the flower.

For prevention, protective measures are taken. The place of plant grafting is freed from the earth layer. The site is cleaned and washed with a solution of fungicides or copper sulfate.

The underpowered areas are removed, the shoots are washed with a solution of copper sulfate or fungicides.

Heavily damaged roses need to be watered with Kornerost or Kornevin, sprayed with Epin. Bushes leave by early summer.

For the prevention of damping, a thin, breathable covering material should be used. The thin cover protects from the cold, allows plants to breathe and does not accumulate excess moisture.

In the fall, the bush is treated with a copper-containing preparation or iron sulfate mixed with a soap solution.

Roses after winter: video

Roses, regardless of species and varieties, are perfect decoration gardens. Correct carrying out of covering activities and timely removal of shelter from bushes allows you to get beautiful and lush flowers in summer.

Roses are very sensitive to spring warming, and with the arrival of warm, sunny March days, the period of natural rest of roses ends. When the roses are in shelters, the ground is still frozen and the roots are not working, and the buds are already awakening and beginning to swell. Rose growers should be very careful at this time and make timely decisions when removing winter shelters, especially if the roses are in air-dry shelters.

V last years nature brings us a lot of surprises - these are snowless winters, and sudden changes in temperature (either thaw, or severe frosts), from which all plants, especially roses, suffer. I repeat once again: if the roses are securely covered, they are not afraid of frost.

Roses are cut out more often than they freeze. And this happens precisely in the spring, when we remove the shelters at the wrong time.

I cover the roses in an air dry way. They are well covered with dry sand or a mixture of garden soil and sand. The place of their inoculation is securely covered.

In March, under the influence of sunlight, the tops of the shelters can be exposed, and snow can slide from the ends of the shelters. During this period, I specially throw snow on the tops and ends of the shelters. I also carry out this procedure with shelters of climbing, ground cover, boles and miniature roses.

In late March - early April, when the snow begins to melt, I remove it from the shelters, make diverting grooves so that the melt water does not stagnate in the planting sites of roses, and thereby save them from drying out. As it gets warmer, I open the ends, ventilate the roses well, then close them again, leaving a small opening at the top for ventilation. If the roses were huddled, covered with spruce branches or sawdust, it is necessary to loosen the upper caked layer in order to provide air access to the roses.

For climbing, standard, pochtoprovny and miniature roses, the edges of the insulation should be raised, vents should be made to provide ventilation to the rose bushes.

It is very important to choose a day for taking cover. If roses are opened early, spring frosts can damage buds that have begun to grow. Delayed removal of shelters can lead to damping roses. Thawing of the soil serves as a signal. When the weather is warm with slight night frosts and the soil in the shelter thaws to a depth of 15-20 cm, you can start removing shelters and insulation.

I take off the shelters in stages. I do it on a cloudy windless day or in the evening to avoid sunburn the bark of overwintered shoots and drying them by the wind after a long stay in a humid environment, without access to air. First, I open the ends, the next day the northern or eastern sides of the air-dry shelter, and only then I completely remove the shelter, shading the roses with spruce branches or paper.

Roses covered only with spruce branches, sawdust or boxes must be opened as the soil thaws. At the open roses I carry out cosmetic pruning: I remove and burn dry, broken and frost-stuck branches, as well as leaves remaining on the ground. After the final thawing of the earth, I break the bushes.

In grafted roses, carefully so as not to damage the bark of the shoots, I free the grafting site (neck) from the ground, wipe it with a cloth, then thoroughly rinse it with a brush or soft brush with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) or bright pink potassium permanganate solution (potassium permanganate). I carefully examine the roots below the grafting site and remove wild growth on the ring, if any. On close examination, you can find several kidneys close to each other. I remove part of the kidneys, leaving one more developed.

Very often, there are frost holes (cracks) on the shoots, which appear as a result of the freezing of water trapped in cracks and scratches in the bark. If the frosts are large and close to the grafting site, then such affected shoots are removed on the ring. If they are small, they need to be treated - rinse the crack with a brush with one of the above solutions, coat with var, then put a leaf of plantain on this place and glue it with a strip of medical plaster. Otherwise, such frostbites turn into foci of infection with spores of various fungal diseases. Spores are spread by high humidity in shelters that were not removed in time. Sometimes the shoots of roses after late removed shelters are covered with mold, especially if the roses went into the winter without treatment with iron sulfate or copper-soap preparations. II remove the mold by washing the shoots with one of the above solutions.

More often than others, climbing and ground-cover roses are cut out, pressed to the ground and covered with insulating materials, especially if they were not aired on time and were late with the removal of shelters. From excess moisture in such roses, shoots are very often affected by an infectious burn. Therefore, after removing the shelters, it is necessary to very carefully examine all the shoots.

Affected shoots should be cut into a ring if the infection burn is located close to the ground, or cut to healthy tissue to prevent the spread of infection. Unremoved affected shoots dry up and die. In the weakly affected, I clean the lesion with a sharp garden knife to healthy tissue, smear it with tetracycline eye ointment or gruel from crushed garlic cloves, apply a washed plantain leaf and seal this place with a strip of medical plaster.

After the above operations, you can start pruning roses, observing all the rules in accordance with the belonging of the variety to a particular group.

Based on materials from the book "Roses" / Theorina A.I. - M .: CJSC Fiton +, 20

Spring has come, every day the sun warms more. Snow is melting. All living things are ready to wake up after their winter sleep. Amateur flower growers eagerly glance at the covered plants, wanting to quickly find out how the roses overwintered. But there is no need to rush. An untimely and incorrect opening can destroy well overwintered plants.

If in the fall the roses can withstand temperatures of up to minus 12-15 degrees for a short time, then in the spring small frosts of 7-8 degrees can kill the plants. The transition from a humid shelter environment to wind-drying, to low temperatures at night and hot sunlight during the day - all this can have a detrimental effect on the shoots of plants. Therefore, roses should be opened gradually after winter.

First, you need to dump some of the snow from the area of ​​roses, then trace the direction of movement of the melt water and make grooves to drain the water so that the bushes are not flooded.

As soon as the ground is exposed, on the surface of the shelter, you need to slightly loosen it to the depth of the thawed layer to give access to air.

It should be loosened very carefully, with a fork and hoe, and not with a shovel, so as not to break the shoots. Loosening should be repeated every 2-3 days, each time penetrating the teeth of the hoe into the newly thawed soil layers and gradually slightly reducing the thickness of the shelter.

It is possible to remove completely shelters from roses only when there is no longer a danger of cold weather returning. Plants are finally opened on sunny days in the evening, and in cloudy weather it is possible in the morning. Open bushes are slightly covered with a leaf, spruce branches, matting for several days.

Those roses that have wintered under boxes, frames, require more careful observation in the spring. Usually roofing paper and earth are thrown on such shelters from above, and it often happens that leaves remain under the bush or on the shoots, and in this case fungal diseases can develop.

In the spring, from shelters of this type, they first carefully dump the earth and open the slots on the sides for a day. In the future, the cracks gradually widen and, if there are no strong frosts at night, they are left open overnight.

To accustom the plant to natural conditions, the upper shield is removed for a day and the plants are slightly shaded from the sun's rays.

When the roses are fully open, cut out all the dead parts of the shoots to healthy wood. When pruning in spring, bushes that developed well last summer and gave a strong growth should be pruned long, leaving a greater co-leadership of the eyes, and bushes that are poorly developed - short.

Opening roses, we sometimes observe that some of them are very frozen, but this does not mean that the plant has died; cold-resistant varieties have many dormant buds in stock, from which the plant can sprout and thus resume growth.

Frozen bushes should be cut short and kept in a damp shelter.