360 Moscow region spoke about the most typical mistakes.

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The annual action "Our forest. Plant your tree" will be held in the Moscow region on September 12. Plants will be planted both in cities and on the lands of the forest fund. It is planned that in one day the participants will plant more than 1.5 million trees - spruce, pine and oak. Autumn planting of trees and shrubs in the Moscow region has its own specifics. 360 Podmoskovye publishes rules to help you avoid common mistakes.

Rule 1

Plants with an open root system, with open roots, should not be planted in autumn if they by their nature do not tolerate autumn planting well and if they are grown in other climatic zones and have not hibernated in our country for a single winter. And even more so it is impossible if this variety or species has a problem with winter hardiness.

Deciduous trees with pivotal and low-branched root systems (birches, oaks, chestnuts, nuts), as well as hawthorns, do not tolerate transplanting well. Transplanting with bare roots is bad for all conifers, except for larch.

In the risk zone, almost all fruit trees, with the exception of the most winter-hardy local varieties of apple trees. Planting trees that have just been brought from European nurseries and have not had time to adapt to our biological rhythm will also become problematic.

If the tree is in a container, you can plant in the fall, but be sure to look at the roots that have escaped from the bottom of the container: twisted and overgrown ones will not be able to take root immediately.

Trees and shrubs with a lump of earth are transplanted in the same way as container ones, but inspect the state of the lump meticulously. Try not to injure him again, do not shake, do not shower the earth with a coma, do not expose the roots. If the lump is packed in a metal or thread net, do not remove it. Such packaging, as the nursery staff assure, is made from materials that decompose in the ground and will not harm the growth of roots.

Rule 2

In autumn, only those plants are planted, the vegetation of which this season has completely ended. If the shoots are lignified along the entire length, and the apical buds are formed, the active vegetation is completed. Otherwise, the tree will freeze. This happens in dry years, when the rains start late, in August. This is not our case, but we will definitely remember this, especially when buying seedlings brought from other climatic zones: it will be difficult for them to urgently master the biological rhythms of a new area.

Rule 3

Don't be late for your fall planting dates. Before October 10, you must have time to complete the planting season. After all, the seedlings must still have time to put young roots in a new place. New roots are the key to success, a tree with regrown new roots will successfully survive all the hardships of winter. Everything, of course, will depend on the fall: if it comes out long and warm, then the planting period can be extended. In the event of a prolonged golden autumn, container seedlings and seedlings with a clod of earth will be able to postpone planting and take root until November, before the onset of frost. But still, do not forget about the date of October 10th.

Rule 4

Don't overdo it with fertilizer for fall planting. It is enough to add only phosphorus fertilizer to the planting pit, which promotes root formation and is absolutely safe even at high concentrations. Nitrogen, potassium and calcium introduced in the fall, on the contrary, will become detrimental to the transplanted plant, making it difficult for the development of both the roots that are and those that should appear. Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime in the fall for planting can be added! All this should be applied in the spring, with general soil preparation.

The only thing that is allowed is drugs - root formation stimulants. They are diluted with water and applied when watering.

Rule 5

Do not forget about such measures to help the planted plant as mulching the trunk circle, protecting the trunk from sunburn, mice and hares, installation of supports and protection of the crown from snow breakage. Any organic material is suitable as mulch: peat, crushed bark, sawdust, straw. It will save the roots from frost and help retain moisture in the soil. The downside of mulch is the problem of mice, which master warm "apartments" and gladly destroy the stems of fruit, as well as ornamental varieties of apple trees, plums, pears. To combat them, use plastic spiral nets that are worn on a bole, or, in the old fashioned way, wrap tree trunks with old tights. This technique, by the way, works great for protecting against hares. And hares are also afraid of spruce branches.

Whitewash saves from sunburn. Best to use water-based paint, preferably a special garden, with the addition of fungicides that protect the tree from pests. Just keep in mind that the autumn rains can wash away the whitewash, and you will have to update it sometime in late February, when the sun starts to heat up.

Yes! Do not forget to tie the newly planted tree to the support. The tree should under no circumstances sway in the wind, setting in motion root system... There can be no question of any rooting. For a small tree, one or two supports are enough, for an adult - a system of stretch marks.

And finally, snow break protection. Tie the crown with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar crown shape, whose branches branch off from the trunk at an acute angle, as well as for conifers with such a crown: junipers, thujas, cypress trees. Shrubs also do not hurt to fix with twine, protecting them from breakage with snow.

As a reminder, anyone can join the action "Our forest. Plant your tree". Renowned politicians and public figures... Head of the Media Relations Department of the Forestry Committee of the Moscow Region Svyatoslav Nyaklyaev answered topical questions about the action.

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With the arrival of autumn, people begin to devote more time to trees and bushes, trying to organize optimal conditions so that winter does not cause any harm to their plants. And some are just beginning to embody their innermost dream of having their own garden. If you suddenly decide to acquire summer cottage The first thing you need to learn is which ones in the fall. In principle, they can also be planted in spring. But autumn is more suitable for this.

Preparation of seedlings

An important stage in tree planting is the preparation of seedlings. It is especially useful to learn about it for novice gardeners. Knowing which trees are planted in autumn and which in spring will not be useful to you if you do not know how to preserve young plants. Remember, as soon as you have purchased seedlings, they immediately need to be dug into the ground. If the root dries up, the chances of the tree settling are greatly reduced. When it is time for direct planting, it is necessary to inspect and prepare the root of the seedling. Using a special one, you need to cut off all dry and too damaged branches. The cut must be directed downward. Before planting in the ground, place the tree just above the root in water so that it absorbs moisture and takes root better in its new place.

The best time to plant trees

There are gardeners who are of the opinion that their chores are over in the fall. But they are wrong. it optimal time for including trees and shrubs. So you don't have to relax. Which tree is planted in the fall? During this period, it is correct to transplant pears, plums and apple trees. Then there is a great chance of better adaptation of the tree rhizome to the new soil. Now we need to find out, not only what fruit trees planted in the fall, but also how exactly it should be done. Before work, you need to prepare the future soil for the seedling. From it he will take all the necessary nutrients and trace elements. We begin to prepare the hole. The depth of the hole depends on where the garden is located. For example, for low-lying areas, the pit should not be deeper than 30 centimeters to prevent too much moisture accumulation and root rot. Having dug a hole, we add fertilizers there in layers: peat, compost and mineral mixtures. We soak all this generously with water. Do not press the root into the ground, or you may damage it. You just need to hold the tree strictly perpendicular to the ground (provided that you dig in the plant not on a slope, but on a flat surface). When you plant a seedling, as a result, you will get around its trunk a small hill... Do not remove the soil to level the soil. Remember that winter, melted snow, wind will still settle, and more soil will only protect the root system. To form the correct crown, several stakes are driven in around the tree and the branches of the seedling are tied to them. Only all this must be done evenly. Otherwise, the tree may lean more to one side. Thus, the trunk will forever remain bent. So we have determined which tree is most often planted in autumn.

Fruit seedlings

Autumn is the best period to plant fruit trees also because these plants are on next year are already bearing fruit. And the trees planted in spring, although they can bloom, almost do not give a harvest. And if appears a large number of ligature, then it is recommended to carefully cut it off. Otherwise, all the energy and life-giving substances will go to fruits. The plant may weaken.

Variety of fruit trees

Of course, the apple tree is the most popular representative of the flora. Especially in our country. But don't you want to have a harvest of different fruits? Let's continue the conversation about which trees are best to plant in the fall.

Plum is taken no worse than an apple tree at this time. Different varieties of it grow on our territory. Usually these are tall trees, from about 3 m to 5 m. Although the height does not play such a serious role. Especially for the gardener who forms the crown correctly. The tree begins to bear fruit 2-3 years after planting. The most fruitful period for plums will be the next 8-10 years. Due to the peculiarities of our climate, the root system of the plant in question is usually located below the surface of the soil, not too deep. Therefore, in a dry summer, it especially needs watering. Now we will find out what trees are planted in the fall yet. All varieties of pears. They are planted somewhere from the beginning of October. The pear has an extremely powerful root system. Therefore, it does not need frequent watering. It must be remembered that the pear is very fond of sunlight, so choose a free, spacious seat for landing. To correctly set the distance between trees, remember that in most plants, especially adults, the root is the same width as the crown. Therefore, seedlings should not be dug in too close to one another. Otherwise, the crown may deteriorate, or one of the plants may weaken. Now you know what trees are planted in the fall.

Make no mistakes

Even experienced gardeners do not rule out errors. What can we say about beginners. If you decide to equip the garden and decide on what fruit trees are planted in the fall, then remember a few basic principles for a successful start. When choosing seedlings, you do not need to look for the largest specimens. The larger the tree, the harder it will be for it to take root in the new soil. One-year-olds get used to it much better. Do not look at the fact that their crown is not developed, but the root was not damaged during excavation. Therefore, they will quickly take root and grow rapidly.

Do not rush to plant, it is best to start not earlier. Do not plant trees on only filled soil. It must settle to be higher. Then the trees take root faster. Do not plant the plants too deep or too shallow. Focus on the root collar. It should be at ground level or two centimeters higher. Do not use fresh manure, which, due to decomposition and release of ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, can damage an already weak root. Thus, you have mastered the information about which trees are planted in the fall and what you need to pay special attention to.

Every gardener's dream is good harvest... How to make sure that juicy fruits are not transferred on the site? It's not just garden maintenance that matters. Planting the trees themselves is also important. How to choose the time for planting, and how to do it correctly, we will consider further.

Decide on a place

The quality of its fruiting largely depends on where the tree will grow. The number of trees in the adjacent territory also plays an important role. If you plan to plant several seedlings, then they will need a little space. Things are quite different with the garden.

To set up a garden, it is advised to choose the southern part of the site. Besides important role plays chemical composition soil. If the soil is too acidic, lime or dolomite component must be added to it. To increase the fertility of the soil, mineral additives and humus are added to the soil.

When choosing a place for the future tree, look around, take a look at the neighboring buildings. Remember that growing up, the tree will acquire a strong root, which will soon begin to destroy the foundation. The same goes for communications. It is better not to place the tree next to high-voltage wires, the ladies did not have to cut off the "extra" branches later.

How to choose seedlings

It is important to choose the right seedlings that you are going to plant. When planting trees in the ground, make sure they are strong enough to survive winter, frost and other bad weather.

The fruit seedling must be intact, without damage. The main branches should be pronounced, and the crown should be well formed. It is best to purchase trees at the age of 12-24 months.

When choosing a fruit tree variety, pay attention to the zoned species. Adapted to specific weather conditions and soil quality, trees will withstand cold weather and give excellent harvest.

There are two ways to sell seedlings:

• With an open root. It is preferable to buy just such trees. You can inspect the rhizome and make sure of its health, as well as look at the cut of the pulp, which should have a light shade.
• With a closed root. Some suppliers sell seedlings with hidden roots: in a plastic bag, a special container. If you buy such a tree, inspect it: the leaves, if any, should not be twisted or limp, there should be no swelling or cracks on the bark.

When to plant

Planting dates largely depend on the region of germination. When choosing the time for boarding, Consider the following tips:

How to plant once and for all

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in the fall has a number of rules, observing which, you will get flowering trees in the spring.

The first step is to prepare a hole... It is necessary to dig out a recess, in diameter slightly exceeding the volume of the rhizome. The depth of the hole is calculated according to the following rule: the root collar of the plant should protrude from the ground by five centimeters. The soil from the bottom layer must be evenly distributed around the recess.

The top layer of soil is mixed with humus. For one tree, you need to prepare a bucket of such fertilizer. To improve the quality of the soil, superphosphate and potassium chloride (about 40 grams) are added to the mixture. If there is no opportunity to apply such fertilizers, then charcoal can replace them.

A mixture of fertilizer and soil is poured onto the bottom of the recess. The hole should be two-thirds full, after which the stake is fixed in the ground. Then the root is placed in the remaining space and covered with the remaining mixture.

Water the seedling abundantly even if it is rainy outside. You need to spend at least one bucket of water on one tree.

The remaining hole is trampled down, covered with sawdust or peat. The seedling is tied to the stake inserted into the ground, so that the wind does not break the young plant.

The root collar knot should not be below the topsoil, as the hole will shrink slightly over time.

To determine where the root collar will be, a wooden lath is installed before digging into the hole, which will fix the rhizome at the required height.

Frequent mistakes

Common mistakes gardeners that are planted fruit trees in the fall can be grouped into several points:

If time is lost

Sometimes it happens that the autumn planting of trees occurs late and the conditions become unfavorable. Then you need to wait out the winter, having previously secured the plant. After wintering, you can transplant.

In this case, you need to dig a hole on the highest part of the site, where water will not stand at the roots. The southern wall of the fossa needs to be made flat, and the northern wall more steep. The northern part of the hole must be at least half a meter deep. Sprinkle the roots of the tree with sand, and then water thoroughly.

To protect the plant from frost before transplanting, it is sprinkled with earth so that it turns out on the surface just a few twigs... It is tedious to save the plant from rodents by covering it with spruce branches. And after the first snowfall, the snow is trampled so that the pests cannot get to the trunk.

In this position, the fruit seedling can be stored until spring. But you need to dig it up immediately after thawing the soil, but before the appearance of buds. The transplant is carried out according to the rules described above.

When is it better not to plant

It is important not only to know how to plant a tree correctly, but also be able to choose favorable conditions for him... There are a number of factors in the presence of which it is better not to plant the planting in the fall, but to postpone it to the spring.

Do not plant trees if a very harsh winter is forecast. Most likely, young trees will not stand frost. Also, do not set up a garden if there is an increased number of rodents and other pests in your area.

The advantage of planting in the fall

Pros of planting seedlings in the fall:

1. The opportunity to buy a seedling at a reduced price, which is important when the survival rate of plants is low in severe frosts;
2. The opportunity to look at the fruits of a particular variety, which the gardener-seller will gladly demonstrate;
3. Soil moisture in the autumn will allow you not to worry about watering and save time; The trees planted in the fall grow faster. Plants that have undergone wintering, as a rule, outrun their spring counterparts by several weeks;
4. If you live in the south, then an autumn planting is perfect for your garden, since in the cool season the seedling is easier to adapt to the soil than when it is hot.

disadvantages

Fall planting is popular with gardeners, however, has some disadvantages:

• It is highly likely that a harsh winter will destroy the fruit tree;
• Destruction of tree bark by rodents, from which it is difficult to protect young trees.

In the fall, there are enough worries in the garden. Today we will learn the rules for planting trees and shrubs in autumn.

Autumn plantings have their own specifics, especially in the central zone of Russia. Ignoring this fact can cause a lot of trouble, so today we remind you a few important rules, following which will allow avoiding typical autumn mistakes.

Autumn planting of trees and shrubs

First rule: not everything should be planted in the fall

In the fall, trees with bare roots should not be planted if one of the following statements applies to the seedling:

• this plant due to its biological features does not tolerate a transplant;
• this variety or type of plant has a problem with winter hardiness in our climate;
• this tree was grown in a different climatic zone and we have not wintered a single winter.

In the first case, we are talking primarily about deciduous trees with a tap and low-branched root system - birches, oaks, chestnuts, nuts, velvets, and so on, as well as such a shrub as hawthorn. A transplant with bare roots is very poorly tolerated by all conifers, except for larch.

As for winter hardiness, here such trees as chestnuts and almost all fruit trees, with the exception of, perhaps, the most winter-hardy local varieties of apple trees, fall into the risk zone. And finally, we do not recommend planting any species and varieties of trees just brought from Europe with bare roots in autumn. A plant that has lost a significant part of its roots may not be able to master the readjustment to other biological rhythms.

Container plants - be they trees or shrubs, deciduous or coniferous - can be planted in the fall. There is only one "but": if the tree has been in the container for a very long time, if its roots have already outgrown the volume offered by it and began to twist in rings, the plant may not take root well. Roots in a twisted state will not be able to immediately begin to function at full capacity, so it is better not to purchase such a plant for planting in the fall.

Trees and shrubs with a clod of earth are replanted in the fall in the same way as container trees. But the state of the coma must be studied very meticulously: if it shook, the earth crumbled, you are already dealing with virtually bare roots, only powdered soil, and this can be deadly for the plant in all the cases listed above for such a situation.

In general, a lump must be handled extremely carefully, trying not to injure it once again. If the lump is packed in a net (metal or thread) or burlap, in no case try to get rid of them. This kind of packaging is made from materials that decompose in the earth and will not harm the growth of roots at all.

The second rule: you can plant only that which no longer grows

At autumn planting you need to make sure that the growth of the selected plants has ended this season. The active growing season is completed if the apical buds are formed, and the shoots are lignified along the entire length. Otherwise - when the tree leaves in winter before the end of the growing season - it will freeze freeze.

You should be especially careful when buying imported plants, as well as if the summer was very dry and it rained only in August. Plants from other climatic zones, just brought to Russia, may not yet master the biological rhythms of the new area. And in dry years, stormy vegetation often begins very late, only with August rains. In both the first and second cases, we get trees by the beginning of the planting season, which are completely unprepared for wintering.

Third rule: don't be late with planting dates

It is believed that in our climatic zone, trees and shrubs with an open root system are best planted before October 10, because the seedlings still have to have enough time to put young roots in a new place.

If a tree manages to form new roots in unfamiliar soil, its root system begins to function at full capacity, and the transplanted plant will survive all the winter hardships much easier. This is especially true for trees and shrubs that are difficult to take root (see the first rule).

Of course, the landing dates may shift somewhat depending on specific weather conditions. So, in the abnormal warm winter enthusiasts continued to plant almost until the beginning of December, but this, of course, was already too much insolence.

Again, when we talk about October 10th, we mean plants with bare roots. Capital research on container plants in Russia has simply not been carried out, since the latter appeared relatively recently, in the new era of the onset of imports. But we believe that it is not worth moving away with containers too far from October 10.

Fourth rule: don't overdo it with fertilizers

This is a very important condition for a successful autumn planting. In autumn, only phosphorus fertilizer can be applied to the planting pit. Phosphorus promotes root formation and is safe for the plant in high concentrations.

Nitrogen, potassium and calcium in high concentration (and when fertilizers are applied to the planting pit, we get a high concentration) will not only not stimulate the growth of new roots, but, on the contrary, will seriously impede the functioning of the existing root system. Introduced in the fall, these additives can be detrimental to the transplanted plant.

Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime in the fall for planting should be added in any case. They can be made in advance, in the spring, for general soil preparation.

The only thing that can still support a newly planted plant is root formation stimulants: root and humates. The preparations are diluted with water and applied during watering in the quantities indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

Fifth rule: landings need protection

When planting in autumn, do not forget about a set of measures that will help the plant survive the winter hardships. We are talking about mulching the trunk circle, protecting the trunk from sunburn, mice and hares, installing supports and protecting the crown from snow breaks.

Mulching with all kinds of organic materials - peat, crushed bark, sawdust, straw - saves the roots from frost and helps to retain moisture in the soil. Read more about this in the article 6 popular options for autumn mulch for every taste.

After insulating the roots, consider fighting the mice. After all, organic mulch (especially straw, sawdust, bark) will be very attractive to them. It is imperative to protect fruit, as well as ornamental varieties of apple trees, plums, pears. But we would advise in general to provide all newly planted trees with protection, if such an opportunity exists. I had to see, for example, how mice gnawed cambium even on ash trees and Chinese poplars.

Actually, the protection itself is sold in the store - it is such a thin plastic spiral mesh that is put on the stem. If you have a problem with hares on the site, you also need to purchase similar protection against hares. To learn more, read the article How to protect your garden from rodents in winter and watch the video Simple way to protect trees from rodents.

But the tree should be saved from sunburn with whitewash. It is best to use water-based paint, preferably a special garden paint. If the fungicide is not included in the whitewash, it would be good to add it - this will simultaneously protect the tree from pests. At the end of February, the whitewash will not hurt to renew if the autumn rains washed it away.

A garter to the support of a tree planted for winter (as well as a tree planted in spring) is required! In no case should the tree sway in the wind, setting the root system in motion - in this case, rooting will be problematic. If the tree is small, one or two supports are enough; an adult plant needs a stretch mark system.

Finally, do not forget to protect the crown from the snow breaker by tying it with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar crown shape - for all those whose branches branch off from the trunk at an acute angle. And twice it is relevant for conifers with a similar crown shape - junipers, thujas, cypress trees. Shrubs also do not hurt to protect from snow breakage.

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the specialists and readers of our project.