The key to long-term and high-quality fruiting of your garden is competent and timely tree care, which includes, among other things, an item called "garden pruning". Is it obligatory to invite a specialist or can you learn how long it will take? Let's figure it out.

1 Pruning garden trees - why is it done?

Without exception, all gardeners, even the owners of one and a half dozen trees on summer cottage, although the owners of a respectable backyard farm, dream that their brainchild would be healthy, perfectly fruitful, and the fruits would be the most delicious, beautiful and large. If everything is more or less clear with the goals and objectives, then beginners may have problems with methods. How to achieve good results? Of course, the garden, like any other business, needs to be done.

Whitewashing, fertilizing, timely watering, loosening, pest control, winterizing, etc. should become clear points in terms of your work on the site. And pruning trees in the garden is one of the main activities on this list. Why do they do it? The answer is simple: to properly shape the crown, to remove broken and dry branches, to guide the growth of the fruit tree.

As a matter of fact, pruning is such a procedure that its methods and varieties speak well of: shortening and thinning.

The first assumes a decrease in the length of the shoot, depending on the goal from 1/5 to 2/3 of the branch, these shortenings have names: weak and strong. And the average - truncation 1/3 - is used most often and is aimed at enhancing the development of the plant in the right direction. As for the second, when thinning, they achieve better illumination of the crown sections, remove unnecessary and diseased branches. In this case, the entire length is removed.

It is located somewhat apart, its goal is to restart the mechanism of the life of the tree, which is beginning to lose its former yield or quality of the fruit, and possibly both. A number of experts claim that rejuvenation fruit trees should be carried out every 3-4 years. But in fact, your favorite tree itself will give you a signal that something is wrong with it. Just be attentive to your garden, and he will reciprocate you.

2 Garden maintenance, tree pruning - when is the best time to start?

Caring for the garden, planning to receive good harvest, you need, of course, all year round... But still, most of the work is seasonal: some fertilizers assume that they will be introduced into the soil in spring, others - in late autumn, you will whitewash trees and treat them against pests after winter, but insulate the trunks of young trees and protect them from hares, of course preparing for the arrival of cold weather. With watering and loosening, in general, everything is clear - as needed, but wisely.

But what about the branches garden trees when is it better to shorten and remove them? The headlines "pruning a garden in the spring, in the fall, for the winter" are certainly perplexing for many beginners. But everything is simple, the main thing is to understand why we are going to do this. If you need to manage a dry or broken branch that prevents the rest of the tree from developing normally, then this can be done in the summer. If we are going to give new life plant, direct development in the right direction, then all work should be done before the plant wakes up, before the beginning of the growing season.

Many experts say that winter garden pruning– the most painless, but immediately notice that it has nothing to do with such attributes of winter as, for example, Epiphany frosts. Moreover, if the thermometer has 8 or even 10 below zero, then there can be no talk of any pruning. But -5 ° C is already coming up. February-March is called optimal time... It is important that the weather settles and there is no frost tomorrow. It is from these considerations that ideas for the winter look controversial in a number of regions. But it is also impossible to delay after the cold weather leaves. Everything has to happen on time.

3 Pruning an orchard - let's get down to business!

If you have studied all the additional literature, if you have plucked up the courage and are determined to put your fruit trees in order on your own, then time is running out.

How to prune an orchard - a step by step scheme

Step 1: prepare the tool

The first step is to prepare, especially if you have to process a lot of trees, and outside the window more and more reminds of spring. Anything you need - a saw, a hacksaw, a delimber, a pruner, a garden knife - must be clean and perfectly sharpened. A dull or loose tool can do far more harm than good. You will probably need a stepladder, it will not be superfluous to get it right away. Do not forget about safety precautions.

Step 2: start with pome fruits

In order to get everything done on time, it is important to have some strategy. The first to process those plants that wake up first. These are pome breeds: apple, pear, quince, mountain ash. We start cleaning with broken and dry branches. Then we take up large branches growing towards the middle of the crown, clearly up or down - this is an incorrect growth, it must be stopped.

Step 3: line of stone fruits

We start with stone fruits: cherries, cherries, plums and apricots. If they are about to start growing again, pruning will not harm them. Remember, damp and cold weather is not suitable for pruning stone fruits, as it can cause gum leakage. And under normal conditions, the same branches will go under the knife as in pome fruits. If the branch grows in the right direction, at an angle of 50-60 degrees, then it is our faithful nurse in the future. True, we can help her with tying and props / struts.

Step 4: ennobling the "youth"

The principle of removing "wrong" young branches is the same as for large ones: everything that grows "in the wrong direction" is removed. But as for the "correct" shoots, we will subject them, if there are no special purposes, to medium shortening, cutting off with a pruner about 1/3 of the length. The quality of work plays an important role. The correct cut is an angle of 45 degrees, the upper level is slightly above the top of the kidney, and the lower one is a couple of millimeters above the base of the kidney.

Step 5: heal the wounds

Ideally, it would be nice to have someone next to you handle the branch cut points. But if this part of the work is not done immediately, then it does not matter either. Just don't put it off. All cuts with a diameter exceeding 2 cm are processed.To do this, use a garden pitch or a simple oil paint... Both can be purchased at the store. If desired, the var can be prepared independently: 200 g of wax, 250 g of solid oil, 50 g of pine resin are heated and mixed thoroughly.

A garden in the country or in the courtyard of a private house is the dream of many people. It's nice to spend time on a bench among the trees with a book in hand. But after all, people want to see not only nature, but also have a good harvest in order to harvest fruits. The garden needs care. You need to know exactly how and when to properly prune fruit trees, in what season it is better to carry out these actions, because it is from proper care the quality of the crop will depend.

What is pruning for?

Many hobby gardeners find it easy to do without pruning fruit trees. In their opinion, the crown will grow by itself, the fruits will appear earlier, there will be a high yield. No, this assumption is erroneous, correct pruning of trees is a guarantee of a long life for fruit trees. Also, the volume of the harvest will increase with each season.

If a person does not know how and when to properly cut fruit trees, and will do everything at his own discretion, then soon the fruits are crushed. With each season, there will be less and less fruit, and as a result, a year will come that will not bring a harvest at all.

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs is important. Every gardener needs to understand this and do the right thing. Pruning is needed for young, old and aging trees. Thus, the wood is rejuvenated and bears fruit better. And many valuable varieties bred by breeders are especially in need of pruning. There are specialists who offer their professional services in the garden.

When is pruning done?

Gardeners often do not pay special attention to the timing of the rejuvenation of the garden plot. Let's figure out when the spring pruning of fruit trees should be done.

The best time is the end of February or the beginning of March, when the danger of a return of severe frosts passes. Pruning begins with young seed orchards. First, these are pears and apple trees, black and red currants (if the thickness of the snow allows).

In late March or early April, most of the crops are pruned. First, these are pome trees, then stone fruit trees. Young crops should be cut off before the start of sap flow, since at a later date the plants weaken with each lost branch.

In May-June, pruning is carried out during the flowering of trees and shrubs. Adult plants can be rejuvenated even after sap flow, thus reducing the regenerative processes of growth.

Care in the warm season

IN summer period also pruning some crops. This procedure allows you to delay the flowering of the tree for the next year, which helps to minimize yield losses during early frosts (for example, this is true for apricots). They also carry out breaking and pinching unnecessary shoots. IN summer season cut off ornamental plants... To resume flowering, remove inflorescences and flowers.

How and when to properly prune fruit trees and shrubs in the fall? Is it possible to carry out such procedures this season? Yes, for the restoration and rejuvenation of neglected apple trees, gooseberries, black and red currants, raspberries and many others.

If gardeners know how to prune fruit trees in spring, then the garden's harvest will always delight the owner with healthy and juicy fruits. The plant will live for many years.

Existing species

To rejuvenate trees and shrubs, use different types trims, there are about five of them, it is also possible to combine.

The first type is formative. Initially, it is required to give the desired shape and size to the crown. But you need to know how to properly prune fruit trees. All unnecessary branches are cut off at the very trunk, large ones - by a third, thin - twice.

The second type is regulatory. Aimed at maintaining a balance between crown growth and fruiting. All vertical, skeletal branches and branches inside the tree are cut off. Such actions will allow you to give the crown the shape of a pyramid.

The third type is anti-aging. This pruning is done to maximize the growth of all branches (old and young).

The fourth type is restorative. If the tree or its branches have been exposed to frost or mechanical damage, then partial pruning is carried out.

The fifth type is sanitary. This is pruning damaged, painful, dry, or broken branches. In practice, gardeners often combine all types of rejuvenation.

Decent maintenance prolongs plant life

In order to understand how and when to properly prune fruit trees, it is enough to study the literature and try to apply the knowledge gained. People often turn to specialists for help. Pruning fruit trees different from trimming ornamental shrubs, because pears, apricots, apple trees, currants, cherries are grown to produce delicious fruits and berries. When inexperienced gardeners carry out pruning themselves, shoots often grow a little later. They need to be removed, possibly several times. Trees with large roots can live up to thirty years if properly cared for. Vegetation with short roots bears fruit much earlier (three years after planting).

Pruning apple trees

Each fruit tree needs separate care. The apple tree is quite popular in our country. It grows in almost every garden. Pruning apple trees depends on the general condition of the tree: age, structural features, crown. In a separate period of time, different actions are performed. At the time when the apple tree bears fruit, it is pruned according to the regulatory form. During the aging period, rejuvenation is performed. During the growth and development of the tree, formative pruning is carried out.

If the apple tree is quite old, then it needs special care... As a rule, such trees have many small fruits at the very top. Apple trees are tall and have many dying branches. You need to cut such a tree gradually, over the course of 2-3 years. They start from the south side. A low and narrow crown is suitable for apple trees.

Pruning stone fruit trees and berry bushes

Gardeners want to make the most of their plot. For this purpose, fruit trees and berry bushes are pruned as much as possible. In pears, the crown itself is similar to a pyramid, therefore it does not require constant adjustment. One problem: the tree quickly starts up vertical branches, some need to be removed, the rest should be turned into fruit-bearing ones.

Stone fruits form from two to four years of age. For a long time, it is impossible to delay pruning, since cherries, plums and cherries are very difficult to bring into the desired shape. Fruiting stone fruit trees are difficult to remove large branches.

In the spring, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries require rejuvenating pruning.

Shortening and thinning

There are two ways to prune fruit trees. The first is called shortening - partial shoots and branches are removed. This approach stimulates the growth of the kidneys. It can be shortened strongly, by half a branch, medium by one third, and weakly - a quarter of the shoot is removed. With this method, trees are rejuvenated. If the branches are large and old, then a strong pruning is done.

The second method is called thinning (cutting). In this case, branches and shoots are completely removed. The method is suitable for fruit trees, the crowns of which are too thick.

If you take care of your garden properly, then fresh and juicy fruits will always be present on your table!

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Pruning plums and cherries (stone fruits) - how to do it right

Correct pruning of plums and cherries and other stone fruits

Many gardeners believe that stone fruits, such as cherries, should not be pruned at all because pruning them causes gum flow.

This is wrong.

Stone fruits, and among them cherries in the very first place, need pruning no less, and sometimes even more than seed crops and trees. But it will be more correct to cut only healthy stone fruit plants.

And forming them is just as important as an apple tree or a pear.

Young stone fruit trees grow many shoots, which quickly thicken the crown, form forks with sharp angles, prone to fractures.

Many competitors grow at the plum, forming a "shaggy" crown. The center of the crown is filled with intertwining dry twigs. Top (vertical) shoots appear on the trunk and skeletal branches, thickening the crown.

The first pruning after planting - shortening of stone fruits is carried out in early spring, a month before bud break (in March). If you don't have time, postpone pruning until next year. Late shortening of the branches leads to drying out. Thinning of the crown (cutting of branches) can be carried out later.

Stone fruits are formed on a lower stem: in cherries - 30-40 cm, in plums from 10 to 50 cm. In more winter-hardy varieties, the stem is higher, in less winter-hardy varieties, it is lower.

An improved tiered crown is suitable for tree cherries and plums. It is easy to form and has good toughness. It is easy to maintain throughout the life of the tree.

The improved tiered crown has a lower tier: 3-4 skeletal branches at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other. Above the topmost branch or well-developed bud, the conductor is cut off.

It should be 5-6 buds higher than the skeletal branches.

Shoots growing in the area of ​​the trunk are broken out in green. The branches directed inside the crown are cut out.

In subsequent years, another 2-3 skeletal branches are laid: the first at a distance of 60 cm from the bottom, the rest - at 30-40 cm from each other. The angle of departure from the trunk of these branches is not less than 45 degrees.

Lateral ramifications (2-3 on the lower and 1-2 above) are laid on the skeletal branches no closer than 60 cm from the trunk. At the same time, the subordination of the branches is observed: the branches should be slightly shorter than the continuation of the skeletal branch located above. The elongated ones are pruned.

In fruiting, well-formed cherries and plums, pruning is carried out if the annual growth is too long (more than 60 cm).

In cherry varieties that bear fruit on annual growths, medium and weak growths must not be shortened. They have almost all lateral flowering buds, and growth buds only at the top. If you cut it off, the branch will dry out. You can shorten cherries that bear fruit on bouquet branches to enhance their branching and increase the yield.

The crown of fruiting cherries often needs thinning. At the same time, thickening, damaged, shrunken, criss-crossing, frozen, low-growing branches are removed.

If the annual growth is weakening (no more than 15-20 cm), the tree can be rejuvenated by shortening the branches to a lateral branch or to top shoots. Long tops are shortened by 1 / 3-1 / 2. The crown is thinned out. The center conductor is cut over a good skeletal branch if it has not been cut before.

Strong rejuvenation is carried out within 2-3 years. The year before this, increased doses of fertilizers are applied under the tree. You should not rejuvenate an old, damaged tree that is suffering from gum flow. Better to plant a new one.

Weakened trees should be well maintained and then pruned.

Trimming frozen stone fruit trees, like pome fruits, should be postponed to a later time (May-June). Even if the buds begin to peck in the spring, this does not mean that the tree is not frozen. They sometimes peck on damaged wood and produce weak shoots that dry out soon. We must wait until strong shoots grow from the buds and the degree of freezing is noticeable.

How to prune a young apple tree that has begun to bear fruit?

Let the apple trees grow short

If by this time the crown of the tree is formed correctly, then after the second or third harvest, you need to cut out the central conductor in order to limit the growth in height.

The upper part of the conductor is removed by 1-1.3 m by transferring to a single side branch that does not compete with it. It is good if this branch has an angle of departure closer to a straight line.

Then you need to cut off the tops of the skeletal branches so that they do not interfere with the light penetrating into the center of the crown.

The optimal height of a tree with moderate growth vigor (Renet Simirenko, Jonathan, etc.) is 2-3.5 m, for vigorous varieties with a pyramidal crown (North Sinap, Spartan, Stark) - 3.5-4 m, for low-growing ones - 2 , 2-2.5 m.The height of the pear tree should not be higher than 3.5-4.5 m.To maintain the tree within such limits, in medium and vigorous varieties, the central conductor is cut at a level of 2-2.5 m from the ground , in the weak - 1.5-2 m.

After reducing the crown, thinning and shortening of vigorous shoots is carried out. In trees with a spreading crown, the branches are cut to the upper bud so that they grow upward.

In the formed crown, the shortening of the annual increments is stopped until the time when they begin to bare and branch a little. These are mainly varieties that bear fruit on ringlets, weakly branching.

In varieties prone to crown thickening, strong shortening pruning is stopped for 4-5 years ( Renet Simirenko, Melba, Jonathan, July Chernenko and others.). Trees, heavily thickened, thin out already at the age of 5, removing small branches in the upper part of the crown. If the crown is sparse, then it is better to bend the vertical branches with a garter.

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Categories: apple trees

Pruning mature trees is very important... It helps shape the crown for better fruiting, as well as for your personal convenience in the yard. Rejuvenating pruning allows adults, and even old trees, to continue to bear fruit and develop, and not get sick and die (which many problems contribute to). Pruning of mature apple trees is done only if the tree has a healthy trunk and strong skeletal branches.

Where to start pruning old apple trees?

Rejuvenating pruning of adult apple trees, whose age is 20 years or more, occurs in the autumn. Dry and broken branches are immediately removed, then those that grow inside the crown and prevent younger ones from leaving it. Bare, diseased branches should also be removed from the tree. It is important to pursue the following principle here - to remove large and old branches that can no longer be of use, rather than to clean the crown by removing numerous young branches.

After, some skeletal branches are removed from an adult tree. This may be necessary if they do not grow properly, interfere with the development of the younger ones, who are able to give a good harvest in the future. A hacksaw and secateurs are used for this.

Further, the center of the crown is slightly opened, removing the top of the trunk at a height of about 3-3.5 meters. It is necessary to remove only the part that prevents younger, but already stronger branches from growing and reaching for the sun. Also, twigs and branches are cut, which are located above the young branches. The tops are also removed from the tree, which, as a result, are not correct pruning in the past, it can be extremely high. Not all tops should be cut off from the old apple tree, a dozen of them should be left all over the tree, and precisely those that grow outward and upward, at an angle. It is from them that new fruiting branches can soon develop.

Rejuvenating pruning of adult apple trees, as well as other fruit trees, occurs every 4-5 years.

Features of pruning old apple trees

Young and mature trees are pruned with certain differences. Also, shaping, restorative or rejuvenating pruning is carried out in different ways.

If there is constant care for the tree, then it is very important not to forget about the annual pruning, so that you can shape the tree at the time of its maturation, not only as it is convenient for you, but also correctly, to obtain large and numerous fruits.

When the apple tree yields a good harvest, and more often it is at the age of 10-15 years, it is necessary to constantly carry out regulating pruning in spring and autumn. This will help organize the maximum growth of young branches and clear the crown of small shoots and old branches that do not allow sunlight to penetrate inside.

In a productive year, the number of fruit buds laid should be significantly reduced. This will help prevent depletion of the tree, as well as allow larger fruit to be produced.

If the year is bad, it is necessary to reduce the number of buds laid for the next year.

Speaking about older apple trees, you need to pay more attention to the crown and young shoots, forming strong and fruiting branches from them.

How to prune a running apple tree?

It also happens that we buy an old and overgrown plot on which the trees are in the same condition. When cleaning the site and putting it in order, it is necessary to remember about orchard, which can delight you in the warm season with juicy fruits. Watering, fertilization, timely treatment are important, but pruning is also important, which this topic of the DachaDecor.ru website is devoted to.

It should be understood that if you do not take care of the trees, this will not immediately affect fruiting, but the quality of the fruit is a must. There may be as many of them, but the apples will be small. But there may be a decrease in the yield, but it will still be on the tree. We need to restore the productivity of the tree and make it not only beautiful, but also useful!

In such cases, experts suggest using chasing. This is a kind of pruning of the skeletal branches of old trees to the level where a really strong increase was observed last year. Most often, a cut is made of up to three-year-old branches. At the same time, one strict rule is observed - each subsequent level of branches is cut off more than the previous one. This will help to quickly restore the apple tree, and if not, the minting of the tree should be repeated.

Do not worry about cutting a lot of branches from the tree, it will not harm him in any way if the apple tree is pruned correctly.

Rules for pruning mature trees

As in any summer cottage business, there is a whole list of rules in tree pruning. These are not the basics, but the common truths that are known to every professional summer resident:

• Trees should not be launched, pruning should be done every year;
• You should not form crowns at the moment when you want it. When pruning a tree in a "custom format", consider at least the correct pruning times;
• With each pruning, try to make sure that the center of the crown of the tree is well lit;
• Use a quality tool and special products for covering the cuts, especially on mature and thick branches;
• Do not protect the tree for the sake of shade, at least rejuvenate it a little. A dense crown does not give the tree any positive effects;
• Prune trees correctly, otherwise you will get a minimum of fruit and a maximum of useless tops.

We cut off the old apple tree (video)

Pruning old apple trees and other trees in the garden- hard work for which it is worth properly preparing. It may even be worth asking a neighbor or a more knowledgeable relative about the peculiarities of pruning your particular tree, because they are all individual. And then - just continue the correct cultivation!

DachaDecor.ru

Spring garden pruning, how to properly prune fruit trees and shrubs, useful tips

Nature has given each of her creations a natural beauty, but this does not mean at all that shrubs and trees grown for harvest should not be carefully cared for by a human gardener. Proper watering, top dressing and timely pruning are important factors that have a huge impact on obtaining a full-fledged crop.

1. Pruning raspberries in spring - what activities will help increase yieldsvideo

The value of pruning for a fruit tree, what tools and materials will be needed for work

Pruning a garden is a procedure that allows for the correct formation of the crown, which allows each branch to receive a sufficient amount of sunlight and air. In addition, pruning allows the tree to be sanitized, to prevent it from being damaged by many diseases.

To trim correctly, it is best to use special garden tools:

• pruning shears, it is best to use a convenient, ordinary, allowing you to cut in one step,
• a garden hacksaw, which has a saber shape and a narrowed end of the panel, with gaps between the teeth (they do not allow sawdust to accumulate),
• an air pruner, which is a cutting tool attached to a telescopic rod, for which levers and ropes are used to drive.

Before starting work, make sure that the tool blades are well sharpened and clean. The use of poor quality tools can cause the formation of ragged surfaces through which pathogens can penetrate. After completing the work, you should clean the surface of the blades and wipe it with an oily rag.

An important point is the subsequent processing of all sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm with a garden pitch. It is a special ointment made from petroleum products. At positive temperatures, it has a plastic consistency. If the weather conditions do not allow the use of var, then the wounds on the tree can be treated with paint made on the basis of drying oil or a mixture of cow dung with yellow clay.

How to choose the right cutting technique

The technique of cutting branches is chosen depending on the goals for which the work is being done.

Kidney cut allows you to change the direction of growth of branches, direct them in the right direction. A cut for the kidney is done on a one-year-old shoot. At the same time, a kidney is found that has the desired growth direction. The cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees. At the same time, the left stump should not be too large or small - in either case, the bud may not wake up, therefore, a new shoot will not be obtained. When pruning shrubs, you can use the hemp cut option.

Ring cut is performed on an incorrectly growing branch, for example, if it is directed to the center of the crown. Fruiting of such a branch will not be successful, but it will take a lot from the tree nutrients... A not thick branch can be cut with a pruner, the cut is made along the outer surface of the ring - so that there is no protruding stump.

Side branch cut used to transfer growth from one branch to another, for example, if you need to make a side branch as the main one.

Types of tree pruning, which ones are used in spring

Pruning a garden in spring is an extremely important process that requires theoretical knowledge of exactly what types of pruning can be applied in spring. Formative pruning serves to create a certain silhouette and shape of the crown, the correct formation of the skeletal part of the tree gives it greater resistance to stress. If it is performed in February, the regrowth of the branches will be intense, the formative pruning of the garden in the spring (March-April) will slightly slow down the growth process.

During the spring months, from February to April, it can also be produced regulating crown pruning to provide sufficient lighting for each of the branches.

Pruning a garden in spring can be aimed at rejuvenation... It will stimulate the growth of new branches. If the growth of shoots during the year exceeds 10-15 cm, then to awaken the adventitious and dormant buds, you will need to cut off the branches. You can also perform anti-aging pruning in February or early fall.

In the spring, as well as throughout the year, you can perform preventive pruning... It consists in removing damaged, dry, diseased branches. It is not recommended to perform such pruning in subzero temperatures. Pruning should be done based on the age of the tree and its size. The tool that was used when performing this type of work must be disinfected.

What are the features of spring garden pruning

The choice of time for work should be such when sap flow has not yet begun, but the trees are already fully prepared for it. With the onset of sap flow, the wounds on the trees will overgrow very quickly and will not provide any further trouble. Since the timing of trimming different types trees do not match, then with the correct layout of the work, you can safely process every tree in the garden.

The work should be carried out at a temperature close to 0 degrees, the cut points after the procedure should be treated with paint, garden varnish or a mixture of yellow clay with cow dung.

Shrubs, especially those in which the formation of buds occurs on one-year-old shoots, cannot be cut in the spring.

Pruning pears in the spring - the order of work

The pear is a stone fruit tree and is pruned in accordance with the recommendations for this species. In the southern regions, it can be cut in the winter, in those located to the north - with the beginning of spring. The main condition correct execution work is the absence of leaves and flowers on trees, there should also be no swollen buds. There should be no signs of seasonal vegetation on the tree, first the crown is thinned out, then the shoots are shortened.

Trim order:

• removal of all shoots extending from the trunk at an acute angle,
• removal of all shoots growing parallel to the trunk and tops,
• removal of shoots tending to the center of the crown,
• shortening of the central conductor of the trunk,
• shortening of the entire young growth by about 1/3.

It is impossible to trim the buds, on which flowering and fruit ovary will occur.

Removing branches of any diameter should not lead to the appearance of stumps, that is, the cut is made near the trunk itself, while leaving an influx of branches. The result of a properly cut is a neatly overgrown footprint. In the event that the bark is damaged on healthy trees, callus begins to actively form, weakened trees can be seriously damaged.

To protect branches with a diameter of more than 3 cm from damage to the bark, you should first cut from below, then from above, in which case the branch falling under its own weight cannot damage the bark. If it was not possible to prevent damage to the bark, it is recommended to clean up the damage and process the cut.

No less important is the timely and correct shortening of each of the annual increments. It is applied mainly to young trees that can grow from 0 to 120 cm per season, which leads to the formation of a rare crown. To avoid this, the growths are shortened by about a third, this enhances the branching process and the awakening of the lateral buds. If the branch goes at an acute angle, it is better to remove it completely.

Pruning apple trees in spring - how to properly form the crown

In anticipation of the onset of spring, each owner carefully inspects his garden - the apple trees in it should be pruned every spring. First of all, it is required to remove frozen branches and broken ones from the trees - with the onset of the growing season, the apple tree will not waste energy on their development. The useful substances accumulated by the tree will allow you to quickly heal wounds from cuts.

Branches growing inward are also subject to removal; shoots should not be left, the growth of which is directed towards parallel growing branches. The intertwining branches are removed, even those growing in different tiers, twigs, small branches growing at the base of the branches. Naturally, the older or defective branch is removed. Branches thickening the crown are subject to pruning.

When choosing branches for removal, it should be remembered that the bulk of the fruits will form on last year's branches. A tree that is properly cared for should be half mature branches.

Spring pruning of apple trees should be carried out between the last frost and the beginning of sap flow in the tree.

For pruning young apple trees, use a pruner; for pruning mature trees, it is better to use a saw. Tools must be well sharpened. In order not to cause a burn of the bark, paint made on the basis of drying oil or var is used to treat the place of cuts. You can also use a solution prepared from 1 part to disinfect the wound. copper sulfate and 10 parts of lime. Cutting places of old branches are processed immediately, young ones - the next day.

Since the root system of young trees is poorly developed, then with spring planting the seedling is cut immediately. Over the next few years, only broken or dried branches will need to be removed from the tree. Shoots are shortened only in the case of very rapid growth, while leaving about 2/3 of the length. The buds that remain on the branch should not be directed towards the inside of the crown - this will contribute to its correct formation.

Pruning currants in the spring - we fight the thickening of the bush in a timely manner

Time should be devoted to the work when the kidneys have not yet woken up from hibernation. If it is not possible to do the work in the period before the swelling of the kidneys, it is better to leave it for the fall or next spring, this will prevent the abundant loss of juice, and therefore of nutrients.

Branches are subject to deletion:

• intertwining and growing inside the bush,
• lying on the surface of the ground,
• curved,
• broken.

Branches that are more than five years old are subject to removal - they will not take part in the laying of the main crop. They are cut off at the base, at ground level. They differ in darker shades of the bark. Pruning neglected bushes is best done gradually, stretching the procedure for two to three years.

In the first year, the most damaged and diseased branches are cut, this will lead to the appearance of new basal shoots. The next year, a few of the strongest should be selected from them, the rest should be removed. This procedure is repeated every spring, until the bush is completely rejuvenated. For the formation of lateral shoots, about a third of the length of the new branches are cut off.

In a similar way, spring pruning of white and red currant varieties is carried out. Since the fruiting periods of these types of shrubs are somewhat longer, branches that are 8-10 years old are subject to pruning. Removing younger branches is advisable only in case of strong thickening of the bush.

Pruning raspberries in the spring - what activities will help increase yields

It should be noted that pruning raspberries is the most important activity that affects the laying of the crop. After planting, the seedling is immediately shortened to half a meter. Pruning raspberries should be done with a pruning shear; pruning will have to be repeated several times throughout the season.

Spring pruning is carried out in March, when the soil has not yet had time to warm up, more specific dates depend on the weather conditions in the area of ​​plant growing.

Any broken, malformed and weak stems should be removed. The rest are trimmed to the first bud. Untimely pruning will negatively affect the formation of the future harvest. It is pruning, and not pinching its top, that will provoke the awakening of the buds, which will give 3-6 shoots with berries throughout the season.

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Abundant interesting options on the topic of spring garden pruning, how to properly prune fruit trees and shrubs, useful tips.

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Depending on the ultimate goal and taking into account the age of fruit trees, there are 4 types of pruning. Formative- aimed at creating a crown of a certain type and size. Regulatory- ensuring the preservation of the specified parameters of the crown and the most favorable ratio between the growth and fruiting of the tree. Rejuvenating- is aimed at stimulating the growth of branches in aging and old trees. Restorative- the purpose of this pruning is to restore the growth and fruiting capacity of neglected or damaged plants. Pruning after planting Pruning trees after planting - even in autumn - is done mainly in the spring. Shorten all the skeletal branches that will shape the crown later. The main rule: powerful branches are shortened by a third, weak ones - by half. All unnecessary branches located below the future crown are cut out at the very base on a ring. Pruning a young tree Pruning a tree in the first years after planting is aimed at the formation of large skeletal branches and the first fruit branches. Remove all vertical shoots growing into the crown and shorten the skeletal branches again so that the crown has a pyramidal shape. Regulatory trim As long as the tree bears fruit regularly, pruning ensures a harmonious relationship between fruit formation and growth. Continue to remove all strictly upright tops and competing branches on the center conductor. Also prune old, highly branched side branches that bear little or no fruit. Anti-aging pruning With rejuvenating pruning in the spring, the crown is greatly thinned out and the outer old fruiting branches are removed. IN next year you can go back to regulating pruning. Pruning fruit crops is significantly different from pruning decorative trees and shrubs, which were discussed in previous articles. Although apple trees, pears, cherries, currants and other fruit plants delight in the spring with magnificent flowering, they, of course, are grown primarily in order to harvest a rich harvest of useful fragrant fruits. By having the most important basic knowledge of pruning these crops and having studied the specialized literature in advance, blunders can be avoided. When pruning plants yourself, remember: each cut promotes the formation of shoots. If it is done incorrectly, the crowns of the plants will most likely need to be corrected again. How much to cut, depends on the type of fruit crop, the age of the tree or shrub, and also on the stock. It often "gets" from hardy wild relatives and forms root system wood. The so-called cultivar, which has certain characteristics for flowering and fruiting. Trees on strong and medium-sized rootstocks with a powerful root system form a wide crown and when good care can reach the age of 30 years. Varietal plants on low-growing rootstocks are shorter and live shorter, but at the same time they enter fruiting earlier - already in the third year after planting. In the garden, they are grown in the form of trees with a spherical crown, reaching 3-5 m in height. If there is very little space for planting, trees on low-growing rootstocks are grown in the form of a fusiform shrub or, as it is also called, a "slender spindle". This narrow, low crown shape is especially good for growing apple trees. Pears of most varieties have a pyramidal crown shape, which does not require active intervention to adjust it. But all pears have one drawback: the appearance of a large number of tops (strong, vertically growing fatty shoots). All tops that are unsuccessfully located and clearly thickening the crown should be removed, and the rest should be turned into overgrowing fruiting branches by pruning. The crown of stone fruit trees begins to form in young, two to four year old plants. It is impossible to delay with this, since adult cherries, sweet cherries and plums are difficult to reshape the crown and react painfully to the cutting of large branches on the ring. Among berry bushes there are real shrubs, such as currants and gooseberries, and semi-shrubs, such as raspberries and blackberries. The latter bear fruit on one- and two-year substitutional basal shoots and often need support. Currants, gooseberries and garden blueberries form skeletal branches and are traditionally grown as free-growing shrubs or standard plants. The advantages of shrubs are that they are much more durable than half-shrubs and give almost twice as much fruit from year to year. Pruning pome fruit trees Apple and pear on tall and medium-sized rootstocks, they are traditionally pruned in winter or in early spring... In apple trees planted close to each other, having a crown of a "slender spindle" and reaching a height of no more than 2.5 m, summer pruning is also carried out. Important: if new shoots grow densely or reach more than 50 cm in length, this indicates their too strong growth, which will help to restrain pruning in summer. In doing so, remove all those long shoots that shade the inside of the crown. Leave about a third of these branches, as after too much pruning - especially in plants grafted onto vigorous rootstocks - new shoots appear even more actively. In adult apple and pear trees, most of the fruits are formed on spears up to 20 cm long and on ringlets 2-5 cm long. When pruning, pay attention to the fact that these fruit formations should prevail, therefore in winter, in adult, well-formed trees, remove only densely growing or drooping fruit branches. Apple trees They bear fruit on three- or four-year-old ringlets, and some varieties also bear fruit on biennial fruit twigs and spears. To stimulate the emergence of new lateral shoots, the old fruit branches must be removed 5-6 years after planting. Summer pruning aims to ensure that fruits ripening in the middle of the crown receive enough light. Pruning stone fruit trees Cherry most often give a spherical crown. After the period of completion of the formation of the crown, it is enough to thin it out annually. In adult trees, you can neatly lower the height to 2-2.5 m. Plum It is also necessary to regularly but moderately prune (it is better not to prune too much). And here peach, apricot and cherry They age quickly, therefore, in order for them to form new fruit shoots, they need to be cut strongly. Pruning during the formation of the crown is carried out in the spring, shortly before flowering. Regulatory pruning is done in summer. Cherries unassuming to care for. After the end of the crown formation period, it is cut off only slightly. In late summer, simply remove old fruit branches or whole skeletal, very old branches. Vertical shoots, as usual, are completely removed. Peach blooms and bears fruit on annual branches 20-60 cm long. Older branches quickly become bare, so they are greatly shortened annually. When pruning in summer, remove most of the branch to the last leaf and competing shoots at the base of the branch. The distance between still young, nut-sized fruits should be about 10 cm. Pruning secrets. How to prune trees correctly. Pruning the garden. Landscaping. AktivZem company. Pruning regular raspberries Plain or summer raspberries for example varieties "Meeker" and "Schonemann" are planted in one row and tied to a wire support. Fruiting occurs on biennial branches - last year's replacement shoots. After harvesting, all biennial branches that have borne fruit, as well as weak annual replacement shoots, are cut out at their very base at the level of the soil surface - instead, 8-12 new powerful shoots grow from the roots, on which berries will appear next year. After pruning, renew a layer of mulch, compost or dung under the bushes so that the soil under the plants remains evenly moist for a long time. Summer raspberry depending on the variety, ripens in June - August. In summer, young replacement shoots are tied to a wire support. Raspberry remontant varieties, such as "Autumn Bliss" and "Aroma Queen", form flowers and fruits on the current year's replacement shoots. The first berries ripen from the end of August, you can harvest until the end of autumn... After picking the last berries, cut off all root suckers at the level of the soil surface. Advice: remontant raspberry almost not susceptible to diseases affecting root shoots, so cut shoots can be crushed and used to mulch soil in flower beds for the winter. However, if an infection is suspected (discoloration of leaves, small crumbling berries), the cut stems should be destroyed. A bush or a standard plant? Gooseberry pruning Gooseberry can be grown as a traditional bush or as a standard tree, the standard plant needs a stable support up to the middle of the crown. In any form of growth, the main branches 3-4 years old are completely removed or cut over the side branch directed downward. Densely growing side shoots on the bushes are also completely removed. At the standard plant, they are shortened, leaving a stump of 1 cm. Currant pruning From the fourth year after planting red and white currants it is necessary to rejuvenate every year.After harvesting, 2-3 of the oldest branches (they can be identified by the dark brown rough bark) are completely cut out. They are left with the same number of new strong root shoots to replace them. All weak young shoots are removed. Then cut off everything lateral branches that have borne, leaving 2 cm stumps. New fruit shoots will grow from them, which will yield a harvest in 1-2 years. Newly formed fruit shoots on the branches are thinned out only if they grow too close to each other. The ideal distance between them is 10 cm. At the standard currant leave 5 skeletal branches. Lateral branches are cut in the same way as in bush-shaped plants. Red currant the largest racemes occur on one-year lateral growths appearing on two- and three-year branches. Blackberry pruning Per blackberry it is much easier to care for and harvest berries if fruiting branches and young shoots are constantly separated from each other. Point all of last year's branches that have berries this year to the same direction. Leave the other half of the trellis for young root shoots, which will APPEAR in the spring and will bear fruit next year. Remove all weak young shoots, and attach 5-10 of the strongest to the support. Important: finally, shorten all lateral shoots on new root suckers by 2-3 leaves. After harvesting or at the end of autumn, the branches that bear fruit are cut as close to the soil as possible. Also, you can always use the services of our company. Experts will properly prune trees and shrubs in your garden. The cost of tree pruning services can be viewed in the Garden Maintenance section.

Pruning the garden in spring or autumn is one of the prerequisites for high yields. This procedure must be carried out regularly, moreover, with a full understanding of everything we do - this is the only way to improve the condition of each tree and provide it comfortable conditions for fruiting.

In our article we will tell you why pruning of fruit trees is carried out, when it needs to be done and how all operations should be carried out.

Purpose of trimming

Pruning orchard performs a number of functions:

• Firstly, when processing young plants, we form a crown of the correct shape.... This not only improves the condition of the tree, contributing to higher yields, but also facilitates the process of caring for the plant, including harvesting.

Note!
Most often, they try to slow down the growth of the tree in height by cutting off the apical shoots.

• Secondly, after pruning, young branches are strengthened., since with a decrease in their length, the load from ripening fruits proportionally decreases.
• Third, pruning promotes branching, and as a consequence, the number of shoots on the tree increases for the formation of fruits.
• Crown depression provides optimization of air and light conditions: oxygen and sunlight can freely penetrate to the leaves and fruits near the trunk.
• Reducing the number of small branches reduces the load on the main parts of the shoot in a snowy winter... Trees that have not been pruned are more likely to break under the weight of snow caps.

Among other things, pruning also has a rejuvenating and healing function: removing branches from an adult tree, we first of all cut out old, sick and injured ones, i.e. those that consume a large number of nutrients, but do not bear fruit.

As you can see, performing formative and healing pruning solves a number of problems facing the gardener. That is why it is very important to learn how to handle this procedure with your own hands at a high level.

Preparatory activities

Timing

The question of when to prune a garden is controversial in many ways. Among professional gardeners, you can find supporters of both spring and autumn (or early winter) treatment of plantings. Perhaps all agree on only one thing: in the summer, only damaged branches can be removed.

Analyzed, both options have their advantages:

• On the one hand, by performing work in the fall, we get the opportunity to prepare the tree for wintering. At the same time, all damage that the plant has received during the growing season is eliminated.

• But at the same time, the tree has little time left for the healing of the slices, so there is a high risk of frostbite areas forming. And this, in turn, can lead to the fact that next spring frostbitten branches will either dry out or bear less fruit.
• On the other side, spring processing makes it possible to maximize the potential of the beginning of sap flow. During the first thaws, active metabolic processes will start in the tree, and all sections will grow rather quickly.
• If we talk about the lack of spring pruning, then it is as follows: some of the energy that could be spent on the formation of leaves, flowers and fruits will be spent on minimizing damage from removing branches.

It is this complex of reasons that is decisive when choosing a season during which the formation and improvement of the crown will be carried out. As a rule, a compromise option is chosen: we remove the damaged branches in the fall, and perform the rest of the work in early spring.

As for the choice of a specific date, it is easier to follow these recommendations:

Note!
These tips are mostly true for fruit trees.
For other plants, the rules can be quite different.
For example, pruning of garden blueberries or hibiscus is carried out exclusively in early spring before the buds swell, but it is better not to damage these plants in the fall.

Tools and materials

In order to cope with the task, we will need tools.

Of course, you can do with improvised means, but it is better to use special devices:

• Garden pruning shears - in fact large and sturdy with sturdy blades and spring-loaded handle locking... Modern pruning shears allow, with a relatively small application of force, to cut branches with a diameter of up to 12-15 mm.
• Air pruning shears (lopper) - a more complex design that is used to trim branches that are taller than human growth... It is a blade mounted on a hinge with a spring. The structure is fixed on a wooden or metal handle up to 2.5 m long and is set in motion by a cord tied to the "shoulder" of the hinge.
• Garden saw. It is used to remove large branches, has a special blade profile and tooth shape, which is most suitable for processing "live" wood.

Advice!
For gardening, it is better to purchase specialized secateurs and saws.
Their price is slightly higher than that of ordinary ones, but it is much easier to work with them, and the cut line will be smoother and cleaner.

In addition, we will need:

• Stepladder to provide access to the upper branches. In some cases, you can try to do without a ladder and perform pruning while standing on the lower branches, but it is better not to endanger your health or the integrity of the tree.
• Work gloves and gloves. The instruction strongly recommends the use of hand protection: this will make it possible to avoid minor, but extremely unpleasant injuries.
• Garden var. It is used to cover the sections of large branches, facilitates healing due to the rapid formation of scar tissue.

When everything is ready, you need to think about how to properly prune your garden.

Cutting technology

Branch shortening technique

Today, there are several techniques for processing branches. Below we will consider each of them, dwelling in detail on the technology of the operation:

Cutting method	Implementation features
Kidney cut	Allows you to change the direction of growth of the branch. It is carried out on one-year-old shoots. A bud is selected that grows in the desired direction, and the branch above it is cut diagonally so that the upper edge of the cut ends immediately behind the selected bud. The smaller the stump left, the lower the risk of drying out the branch. Note! A cut angle that is too sharp can damage a large number of vessels, and the nutrient-deprived kidney will dry out.
Ring cut	It is used to remove branches growing in the wrong direction, for example, inside the crown. With the help of a pruner or a saw, the branch is removed in such a way that the cut line runs along the upper edge of the bead on the base - the so-called ring. When performing a cut, care must be taken that the ring itself is not damaged, as this can lead to injury to the main branch.
Side branch cut	Operation opposite to the previous one. With the help of a secateurs or a saw, we do not remove the side shoot, but the main one. Thus, the side branch becomes the main branch, due to which the shape of the crown is adjusted.

By and large, the pruning technique is limited to these techniques. All operations are performed according to this scheme, and the final result depends on which branches we choose. We will try to cover this issue in the next section!

Pruning a young garden is carried out primarily in order to give the tree crowns the desired shape.

Here you should adhere to the following recommendations:

• We begin to form from the first year of the plant's life. As a rule, a seedling with a height of about 1.5 m without side branches is planted on the site - we will work with it.
• In the lower part, mark about 50 cm. Remove all the buds and young branches located below, forming a stem.

Note!
It is undesirable to make a bole less than 50 cm - it will be much more difficult to process the soil under a tree.
Above, too, is not necessary: ​​a long bare trunk suffers greatly from both sunburn and frostbite.

• So, the first kidney should remain about 50 cm from the ground. Above it, at a height of about 20 cm, we leave two more sprouts directed in different directions. Having developed into full-fledged branches in the first year, they will form the first tier of the crown.
• The fourth bud will give us a growth shoot, therefore we cut off the part of the plant above it in such a way that no stump remains.

For the next year, we continue to work on pruning:

• The shoot that has grown from the left upper bud is cut to a height of about 50-70 cm. It should have at least three multidirectional buds, which will form the second tier of the crown.
• The branches of the first tier at this stage do not need to be touched. Pruning is performed only for the forced adjustment of the direction of growth.
• In the third year, we remove the shoots on the trunk and limit the growth upward, cutting off the tip of the central shoot.
• A one-year growth will form inside the crown at this time. Cutting out these branches is not worth it, since they are the first to begin to bear fruit, so you can simply bend them down, slowing down the growth in height.

As a result, we get young tree up to 3 m in height, on which two or three tiers of several skeletal branches will be formed. In the future, we make sure that the edges of the young branches do not go beyond the tiers, and, if necessary, remove them, leaving 1-2 buds at the base.

Of course, this scheme is not applicable to all fruit trees. You can make adjustments to it depending on your wishes for the plant and the condition of the seedling itself. But in any case, the general principle remains unchanged: to obtain high harvest it is necessary to form sufficiently sparse tiers and restrain the growth of the plant in height.

Minimizing damage

Both spring and even more winter pruning of fruit trees is a huge stress for the plant organism.

To minimize this stress, you should adhere to these rules:

• For work, you need to use only a sharpened tool that cuts through the wood fibers, and does not "grind" them. This way, the branch will be minimally traumatized, and the scar tissue will form much faster.
• After trimming, we carefully cover all the cuts and cuts with garden pitch. First of all, this applies to thick branches, but experts recommend not to make passes, and to process all damaged areas.

Note!
Instead of garden varnish or together with it, you can use yellow clay, to which rotted cow dung or oil paint (on natural linseed oil) is sometimes added.
These folk remedies also speed up healing.

• Cut off branches, especially those that were removed when an infectious disease was localized, can cause infection of other plants. That is why we never leave them in the garden, but collect them, dry them and burn them. Young, healthy shoots can also be composted.

Conclusion

Pruning a garden in winter and early spring has a number of very important functions. That is why any gardener should thoroughly master the techniques for the correct execution of this operation. So if you want to get a big harvest, carefully study the above tips, and also watch the video in this article.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn is an important step in horticulture, which will ensure proper growth, maintain health and rich fruit production. garden plants... The procedure is equally necessary for both young and old trees.

For gardeners who are faced with this need for the first time, the pruning procedure can seem like a rather complicated task. But if you follow the recommendations, this stage of caring for fruit trees will not cause difficulties.

Benefits of autumn pruning over spring pruning

Some even the most experienced gardeners often wonder when exactly to prune trees. The answer is quite simple - it all depends on the purpose for which this procedure will be carried out. Each seasonal pruning has its own advantages and purpose. Autumn pruning is more often sanitary, because in the process of this procedure, the tree is prepared for winter. In the fall, it is very important to remove old or dead branches from fruit trees, in which insects and pests can settle that can infect trees with various diseases. Autumn pruning is often done before the first frost.

At the beginning of November, it is better to leave the trees alone and not carry out any operations. Since the country is located in a temperate climate zone, all procedures for preparing a tree for hibernation it is necessary to carry out the maximum at the end of November, until the first frosts hit. And since frosts can appear quite unexpectedly, tree pruning must be done in advance.

Pruning trees in the fall is very important and must be done correctly.... Novice gardeners try to get rid of dry branches and branches unnecessary to the tree as soon as possible, as a result, this leads to the fact that the trunk remains practically bare. As a result, the plant bears less and less fruit every year.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn is an important stage in gardening, which will ensure proper growth, maintain health and rich fruit production of garden plants.

Hacksaw and other tools for pruning trees in the garden

In order for tree pruning to be not only convenient, but also to go according to all the rules, it is necessary to choose the appropriate tool. The most suitable tool for this process is a pruner., with which you can get rid of unnecessary branches on trees and bushes. Summer residents who care about pretty young garden, it is quite enough to have only this tool in your arsenal. Well, those who are going to cut trees and branches thicker than 50 cm cannot do without a garden saw or a hacksaw.

The basic requirements for a garden tool are quite simple - it must be very sharp so that the cuts are even and smooth. In addition, the cutting tool must be safe for the gardener himself. For a pruner or hacksaw to be comfortable to hold and trim, it should be light in weight, but provide maximum load. Choose a tool that is not bulky and convenient to use, this will provide easy access to branches at any height or distance.

A hacksaw is ideal for cutting thick branches. Some summer residents use a regular hacksaw, forgetting that such a tool is intended for "dead" wood. To trim live branches, you need to acquire a tool whose working surface is as gentle as possible for the tree. For high-quality garden hacksaws, the height of the cutting teeth should be at least 5-8 mm with wide openings and sharp sharpening. Such a tool does an excellent job of pruning branches and does not become clogged with wood.

How to prune an apple tree in autumn (video)

Types of pruning garden trees in the fall

Every gardener has different goals when pruning trees. In other words, pruning can be of several types, the most common of which are:

• sanitary
• rejuvenating
• decorative

Sanitary

This type of pruning is done in order to remove old dry branches, as well as those parts of the tree that are affected by pests. Do sanitary pruning it is possible, but only in autumn, but also at any time of the year, but not in winter. On frosty days, the tree needs peace. After removing the infected branches, the working tool must be treated with alcohol to prevent infection of other plants when working with this tool. When sanitary pruning, it is important to take into account the size and age of the tree, as very intensive work often leads to a thickening of the crown.

Sanitary pruning is done to remove old dry branches, as well as those parts of the tree that are affected by pests

Decorative (molding)

Shaping pruning helps shape the crown and leaves of the tree. Thanks to this approach, it is possible to achieve an ideally formed shape of the skeletal part of the trunk. Decorative pruning in a given month also affects the further growth of the branches. For example, if you do the procedure at the end of February, they will grow more intensively. If you choose the beginning of spring for the procedure, it will slow down growth.

Forming pruning helps shape the crown and leaves of the tree

Rejuvenating

With anti-aging pruning, the tree can be renewed and new branches can grow. If every year the length of the branches increases by 15-20 cm, they need to be cut, thus giving awakening to the sleeping and adventitious buds. It is better to rejuvenate the tree in September, February or early spring.

With the help of anti-aging pruning, you can renew the tree and give growth to new branches.

Fall pruning schemes for fruit trees for beginners

Fruit trees have their own pruning characteristics. In what month to carry out the procedure? The right approach will ensure a rich harvest. It is better to prune apple trees in the fall, immediately after harvest. This must be done very carefully so as not to accidentally remove the "live" fruiting branches. New young branches often look worse and compete with old ones for moisture and nutrition. therefore when trimming, you need to ensure optimal conditions for the future harvest.

Along with apple trees, they cut, for example, pears or plums, peaches, and other types of stone fruit trees. Since each of the trees has its own structure, it is impossible to say which branch exactly needs to be cut and which one should be left. It is necessary to observe which branches had the most fruits last year, and which ones only take moisture and interfere with the development of the tree.

In fruit trees, you need to cut out those branches that are located "inside" the tree. If there are small shoots on the trunk that grow at a certain angle of an already regrown branch, they must be removed. You also need to remove those branches that intertwine with each other, even if they are located far from each other, but are still woven and touching. You need to start with the driest and oldest branches, if the bark on it is cracked, it definitely needs to be removed. In order not to accidentally remove fruit-bearing branches, be guided by the fact that all knots, broken or cracked branches are subject to removal. In fruit trees, you need to carefully examine the lower part of the trunk - there may be young buds that will bear fruit next year. Trim the top of the tree with a pruner or hacksaw - this will ensure the formation of a lush crown and a rich harvest in the next season.

When is it better to prune trees (video)

Appointment and timing of autumn pruning of conifers

In addition to fruit trees, conifers can also grow in the garden. In the Moscow region, they are often used for landscape design of personal plots. Timing is essential to create optimal growth conditions for conifers and to adapt during pruning. It is better to do this in late autumn, when the temperature does not drop below + 5 °, but not in winter. Each type of coniferous plant has a period of active growth. when resin is released from the trunk. At this time, it is better not to touch the plant, and provide it with peace.

If there are several conifers and there is an urgent need to give them decorative view, you first need to strengthen their stems and trunks. This can be done with special fertilizers. After the branches of the plant have hardened and a strong structure has been created, they can be decoratively pruned. Pruning conifers do not only with in order to give them a decorative and attractive appearance, but also in order to get rid of dry and old branches, which take a lot of energy and moisture from the plant.

Pruning coniferous trees is done in order to get rid of dry and old branches, which take a lot of energy and moisture from the plant.

Rules and optimal time for pruning fruit bushes in autumn

Fruit shrubs on garden plots Belarus is provided with a rich harvest. Annual pruning of berry bushes allows you to maintain them in a productive state and healthy. Removal of dry and old branches ensures the growth of young shoots and optimal penetration sunlight inside the bush. Do not worry if you accidentally remove the buds with the old branches, because the newly grown shoots will yield more fruits and berries.

For a regular and rich harvest of berries in the garden, you must adhere to some rules when pruning:

• you need to trim the bushes regularly, but do not do this at temperatures lower than -7 °;
• you only need to use high-quality garden tools;
• when pruning, it is necessary to remove all dried and dead branches and fruits;
• before work, wipe the surface of the tool with alcohol - this will exclude the possibility of infection of plants and trees;
• when pruning branches growing in one direction, you can correctly form the crown of the shrub;
• a properly growing branch should depart from the trunk at an angle of 50-60 °;
• when pruning apple, pear, plum, peach and apricot trees, you need to focus on trimming the upper part of the trunk;
• when pruning dry or diseased branches, you enable young shoots to grow, which will give a rich harvest in the new season;
• after each pruning, check the condition of the branches for wounds or infections;
• observe the condition of trees and bushes during pruning and use the knowledge gained for subsequent procedures.

Annual pruning of berry bushes allows you to maintain them in a productive state and healthy.

For what purpose and how to lubricate the slices after trimming

After pruning dry branches, you need to cover up the resulting "wounds" and places of cuts. Experienced gardeners use for these purposes garden pitch, vegetable paints and other mixtures. But this procedure is losing its popularity. This is due to the fact that the artificial covering of wounds makes it difficult for the natural healing process of the slices on the branches. Bare wood after cuts is rarely completely sterile, which means that "covering the wounds" can do more harm than good.

On this issue, gardeners were divided into two camps - some argue that processing branches after cutting is necessary, others - on the contrary. In general, it is recommended to process the cut points on branches whose diameter exceeds 1-3 cm. It is not worth processing sections of a smaller diameter. When using garden varnish, which includes a mixture of ceresin, paraffin and wax, you need to pay attention to the proportions of the components. You can make this mixture yourself at home.

Advantages and disadvantages of pruning fruit trees in the fall (video)

Pruning fruit trees in the fall is better than in the spring. This is due to the fact that they will already be prepared for wintering and will provide a rich harvest next summer.

We will tell you about the techniques, methods and rules for pruning trees and bushes.

There are techniques by which you can regulate the growth and fruiting of garden trees and shrubs. They are akin to surgical ones. This is crown formation and pruning.

The formation of the crown is carried out to create a strong skeleton of trees in order to accelerate their fruiting and at the same time to be maximally rationally placed in the available space of the garden. For this, trimming is carried out, i.e. partial or complete removal of shoots. This agrotechnical technique seems to be rather complicated and requires certain skills. Failure to use it can harm the garden. In fruit crops, pruning must be carried out before bud break - in March or the first half of April at freezing temperatures. In berry bushes, buds swell early, and leaves appear almost immediately after the snow melts. In this regard, they are cut off first. Then you should tackle apple trees, pear trees, pruning young pome plantations and stone fruit.

You need to know that in early blooming plants, buds and flower shoots are laid in the previous growing season, so they should be pruned immediately after flowering. In late flowering crops, it is carried out at the beginning of the growth period. Pruning some shrubs stimulates an increase in the size of their leaves, as a result of which they become more decorative. For this purpose, it is carried out in winter or early spring.

Pruning raspberry, dogwood and willow maintains and enhances the decorative color of their shoots.

Name of parts of the tree

To carry out the correct pruning of trees and shrubs, it is necessary to have an idea of ​​their constituent parts (Fig. 1).

The aerial part of the tree, otherwise the crown, is a trunk with branches.

Rice. 1. The main parts of the tree: 1 - vertical root; 2 - horizontal root; 3 - root collar; 4 - stem; 5 - the main skeletal branch; 6 - a conductor giving direction to the growth of the branch; 7 - overgrown branches; 8 - continuation branch

The part of it, going down to the first branch, is called the stem. From it to the last annual growth, there is a central conductor, from which large skeletal branches extend, and from them, in turn, skeletal branches of the first, second and third order of branching. The trunk with skeletal branches is the constantly living base of the plant. Another part of it and the crown is short-lived and weak branches that are rejuvenated or replaced by new ones.

Fruit branches grow on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches, which are otherwise called overgrown (Fig. 2). These include a fruit twig (15-20 cm), a spear (up to 15 cm) and a ringlet (2 cm).

Rice. 2. Growing branches of an apple tree: 1 - fruit twig; 2 - fruit; 3 - spear; 4 - ringlet

Rice. 2 (continued). Overgrowing branches of an apple tree: 1 - fruit twig; 2 - spear; 3 - fruit; 4 - ringlet; 5 - fruit bag

On the branches, continuation shoots are distinguished - the terminal shoots of the trunk and branches. At the end of the fruit twig, a swelling is formed, which bears the fruits - a fruit, or a fruit bag. There are also tops (water shoots) - strong shoots growing vertically, which develop on perennial wood from dormant buds or due to branch breakage, improper pruning and freezing of branches.

It is also important to know about the kidneys (Fig. 3). This is a rudimentary shoot in a dormant state. Distinguish between growth, fruit, dormant and mixed buds. From the latter, replacement increments are formed and peduncles develop. Sleeping kidneys are spare. They wake up when freezing, damage to branches or drying out. Fruit buds contain underdeveloped inflorescences and flowers.

Rice. 3. Varieties of buds: a - fruit branch with flower buds; b - growth buds; c - fruit buds.

What you need to know about pruning

There are three types of pruning: formative, regulating fruiting, and rejuvenating, that is, restorative.

Formative pruning carried out to create a productive crown, which provides good air circulation, resistance to diseases and pests, as well as to prevent weakening of shoot growth. It is carried out in the first three age periods - from 5 to 15 years.

Pruning, which regulates fruiting, creates conditions for the constant renewal of fruit wood. She lightens the crowns by removing thickened, intersecting and weak branches.

Rejuvenating is used for trees 20-25 years old and older.

Pruning is carried out twice - in winter and summer, that is, during periods of dormancy and growing season. Pruning is used (remove the end part of the shoot, fruit twigs and branches) and cutting (remove branches at the point of their departure from the larger or central conductor).

When thinning, they get rid of unnecessary branches that thicken the inner part of the crown: intertwined, weak, diseased, broken and growing up or down.

Shortening enhances growth processes (Fig. 4, 5). This technique is used in the formation of the crown to balance the branches and subordinate them to the guide, as well as to reduce the size of the crown in case of its strong growth. It is also used to enhance the overgrowth of branches, the so-called ankle, in varieties with a weak awakening of the buds. In old trees, shortening is carried out in order to enhance their growth, or used to restore the crown when freezing.

Rice. 4. Pruning branches

Rice. 5. Shortening: a - young branches

Rice. 5 (continued). Shortening: b - old branches

The method of shortening is not used for pruning varieties that can quickly form shoots and awaken buds: this leads to thickening.

There are three degrees of shortening: weak - less than 1/3 of the branch, medium - from 1/3 to ½ and strong - more than half of the branch is cut off.

The slices are made near the kidney - this is called kidney trimming. The one that is located on the outside of the branch and "looks" in the desired direction is chosen. Then an oblique cut is made approximately 5 cm above the kidney.

Branches up to 1 cm thick are cut with a garden knife, thicker ones with a file. To cut a whole branch, you need to saw it off at a distance of 25 cm from the trunk, starting at the bottom a quarter of the branch's circumference. Next, make a cut from above and saw off the branch to the end. This gentle method prevents bark and wood splitting.

The next step is to saw off the rest of the branch in the same two-step technique. Further, the edges of the cut are leveled with a sharp knife and treated with various means: for example, they are covered with pitch so that pathogens do not penetrate. True, some gardeners, on the contrary, believe that this method leads to infection of the tree and slows down the healing process. In addition, sections of more than 1 cm can be painted over with paint prepared on natural linseed oil. You can wrap the wound with plastic wrap.

Pruning should be done before flowering to allow the wounds to heal (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6. Cutting off a branch: a - sawing off a branch from the bottom; b - sawing off a branch from above

Rice. 6 (continued). Branch pruning: c - sawing off the remnants of the branch; d - covering the wound with var

Each plant has its own pruning calendar. So, roses should be pruned in winter or early spring, before the flowers begin to awaken; grapes - after flowering, better in winter or early spring. To trim it, a shortening technique is used, with the help of which the formation of lateral short branches is achieved. New fruiting ones develop from them. The shortening of decorative vines is carried out in a similar way: up to the first three buds from the main branches.

Evergreen hedges, such as boxwood, are pruned in early summer with hand scissors, and large-leaved hedges with pruning shears. These works are best carried out in dry, cloudy weather in the absence of the sun in order to avoid burns at the cut points. Laurel hedges are cut in early autumn, near conifers pruning is done at the end of summer. Beech and hornbeam are pruned in late summer or early spring.