When to plant roses with a closed root system. Rose saplings: storage and landing of early spring. Landing roses seedlings with a closed root system for normal timelines
Choosing a healthy sapling
As a rule, seedlings are sold with an open root system, closed and seedlings in containers.
The advantage of acquiring bushes with open roots is that you have the opportunity to consider the development of the root system. Saplings of the highest category have at least three stems, mean - at least two. Pay attention to the leaves and shoots, perhaps they will be noticeable signs of the disease. The root system must be well developed (the diameter of the root neck is about 8-10 mm). Carefully crush the nail one of the roots: the roots must be elastic, white.
Roses with cereal roots can only be purchased in the main landing period, since even short storage can lead to the drying of the root system.
Saplings with closed roots - a more reliable option. Their advantage - the protection of the root system from various damage during transportation, transportation.
You can buy seedlings in containers. However, check the strength of planting plants in advance, make sure that it has not been transplanted shortly before the sale. Plus container seedlings - a visual assessment of the color and structure of the flower.
Sand and porous soil will be corrected due to the contribution of the organic matter, which will be thoroughly mixed with the Earth. Because if roses need a lot of water, they do not like a stagnant humidity that suffers their roots, as well as very compact soils that prevent the development of roots. In both cases it is important to facilitate the flow of water and the soil aeration by adding organic materials, such as compost, sheet form or gravel, Pozzzolan. In heavy soil, it is necessary to improve drainage. . For pink bush It is important to have loose soil, well ventilated and rich in organic elements, where her young roots will easily find their way.
Choosing a place to land roses
Favorable place:sun illuminated by the sun part of the garden. The sun should illuminate roses in the morning, while the day is needed a light shadow that covers them from the hot afternoon rays. It is also important to know that the varieties of dark shades can not be planted under direct sunlight - it is better to plant roses with a bright color gamut on this place.
An unfavorable place for roses:the northern part of the garden, blowed by the winds, as well as under the trees, close to the walls of buildings and fences. In addition, you should not post new young roses next to the old. If the bush is in a permanent shade, it leads to an intense vertical growth and further depletion of the plant. The cold wind dehydrates the leaves and rocks the bush, the output is the installation of a living hedge, it should be done so as not to shade roses.
Favorable soil for roses.Nubble lighted soils rich in humus, easily permeable to air and moisture. These are perfect soils, but are rare.
Less favorable soils for roseslight sandy and samp soils, in winter they are often wrapped, and overheat, they are quickly washed out of them. nutrients. For the enrichment of the soil, overwhelmed dung, turf, peat and lime contribute. Require improvements and heavy clay soils, where moisture is delayed for a long time. Such soils should be drained, deposit, humid, compost, peat. With a lack of oxygen, breathing and root growth deteriorate, and excessive humidity slows down the development of the root system and leads to the death of the plant.
Unfavorablefor roses, the soil was converted, swamp, with a high level of groundwater. Excessive moisture on the site will destroy the bush. Groundwater should not be higher than 1.5 meters.
Soil for roses is preferred weakness, pH (indicator of the soil acidity level) - 6, 0-6, 5. At a pH of about 7, the soil is considered neutral, at a pH below 7 - acid, and with a pH above 7 - alkaline. To increase the acidity in the soil, peat and manure are added to the soil, and ash, lime or dolomite flour are introduced to get rid of slags.
Kotals, saline and stony soils should be avoided. In areas with a cold climate and short summer roses need soil with an alkaline reaction.
It is not recommended to root the seedlings into the place where the bushes had previously grew. From the depletion of the soil here can be infected with pests and pathogens of diseases. If there is no other option, remove the soil with a layer of 70 cm and pour a new one.
That's why you need to mix the soil around the roots with a good home compost or well-broken manure. Pink bushes sold in plastic containers, should not stay as they are! You must transplant them in your garden or in a big pot.
For planting a rose bush sold in containers. 
In dry weather, do not forget to regularly water water using watering can facilitate rooting. It is possible that the roots go through the drainage holes of your rose bush purchased in the container. Since they cannot be removed, without damaging precious hair, cut the container with a secaterator to save the maximum roots.
Time for landing roses
Roses are planted to the dissolution of the kidneys, as soon as the soil warms up to about +10 ° C (in the south - in April, in middle lane - In late April - early May). During spring landing Their roots are shortened up to 30 cm. If the plant is purchased with already cropped roots, cuts need to be updated. Park, plenty, semi-fly roses roots are slightly shortened and removed the weak or damaged tops of the shoots. At the soil roses only update the roots sections. Progressing shoots from tall roses by 10-15 cm, the plenty - up to 35 cm. Immediately after the landing, you need to shorten their branches over the sixth kidney, and stem shoots over the third. In roses Floribunda leaves 3-4 kidneys, tea-hybrid - 2-3.
Roses landed in spring require a lot of attention: it is necessary to constantly monitor the moisture of the soil, thoroughly pronounce seedlings from the sun.
Spring landing is not recommended if the soil is wet and heavy: during the landing it is even more compacted, it is difficult to break it hard. It is strongly recommended to disembark in the spring of stumbling roses, as the flowers of this particular grade with difficulty tolerate the autumn fit.
Spring is the optimal period for landing roses and in mountainous areas.
Autumn roses land Starting from the first decade of September and until mid-October - so that the shoots managed to root before frosts. If a rose is planted with an open root system, then more early landing Such a seedling is undesirable: the plant will start spending too much energy on the growth of young shoots and kidneys, and as a result weaken and may not move the winter cold. And if roses fall down later, say, at the end of October, they may not have time to root, they feel bad and even die.
For autumn landing Only damaged branches and ends of the exhaust shoots are cut off. You can eliminate and unbearable shoots, leaving only 3-5 the strongest. Pruning shoots to several eyes is better to postpone until spring.
Roses landed in the fall, the first time is cut by the next spring, lubricating the scene of the garden with the garden.
In summer Roses can also be planted, but in this case the seedlings should be with a closed root system.
Throughout the season You can land roses grown in containers.
If the plants are bought in the fall, and frosts hit, it is already undesirable to plant them, it is better to shop to spring in a shady spot, lowering the slope to the ground 10 cm below the area of \u200b\u200bthe eyepiece. Dry roots will surely moisten, to do this, lower the seedling for two hours in a bucket with water. When sticking, the bushes are abundantly watered, the earth falls asleep, slightly plump and wrapped.
After receiving your naked root roses, fully immerse them in the tank with water to rehydrate the tissues. Ideal is landing them per day. It may happen that you get your roses a day when you can't land. Do not panic: You can put them in a rut, waiting for their final landing.
Measurement: To create a sensor, dig a groove width 30 cm and as close as possible in a shady and protected place. Install roses in a dense and slightly inclined row to limit the grip. In the wind, cover the soil with a garden or a flooded soil, caring for the penetration of this substrate between the roots, so as not to cause the formation of air pockets. The mixture should rise to the points of the vaccination of pink bushes, and then properly absorbed. If not rain, sprinkle the soil slightly to keep the roots wet.
How to prepare roses to landing
The day before landing, roses are placed in the water for 10 hours. Before planting the roots, shorten up to 20 cm, and damaged cut to a healthy tissue. Remove all dried branches, the remaining cut. At the same time, severe shoots leave five kidneys, less severe - three, weak shoots are cut off, leaving no more than 3 mm at their base.
Depending on the variety in the spring landing, the shoots are cut as follows: tea-hybrid - up to 10-15 cm, in Floribundum - up to 20 cm, in the park only the tops. The plenty roses are trying to keep the screens. Miniature, soil, bushs do not need pruning.
For better survival, the roots should be moistened in the clay solution and the cowboy (3: 1), adding one tablet of heteroacexin to one bucket, previously dissolved in water.
With autumn planting, the seedlings are not cut off, only the tips of the shoots are removed to healthy wood, the roots are cut to 20-25 cm.
Lianov and rose bushes
They can stay from 3 to 4 days. 
Protection points of vaccinations with a good layer of leaves. During the first year, it will maintain a small but constant moisture. Lifting roses. . Start with the soil sounding with iron rod to find a place free from the big roots. Be careful not to plant a persistent plant, the rose does not have enough light, proceed to landing, as previously explained, depending on whether it is a pink bush in a container or bare roots.
Subtleties of landing and preparation of roses
Saplings of roses are lowered in the well and spread the roots. Consider the right landing depth for graft roses. Place of vaccinations (thickening between roots and branches) must be 2-3 cm below the ground level. It is important that the earth fits tight to the roots. The seedling is abundantly watered, and when water is absorbed, check the position of the vaccination location. If the land of the village, the seedlock is lifted a little and add to the ground. Then plunge it on 20-25 cm and is dialed within 10-12 days. After landing, the soil moisture is followed. In dry weather, roses are watered every 4-5 days.
If the soil on the site does not meet the necessary requirements for planting roses and it is necessary to use the filling mixture, then the landing technique is a bit different. At the bottom of the pit, the mixture is poured with a mixture, and top with a layer of fertile land without fertilizers to protect the roots from burns. They put a bush, fall asleep it again soil without fertilizer and compact it. There is no other difference.
Around the planted cooks make a hole and, watering, thrice fill it up to the edges with water. After absorbing moisture, the Lunka falls asleep the earth. Then the seedlings plunge so that all shoots at a height of 20 cm were closed - it protects them from drying out. After the sprouts are achieved 2-5 cm, the roses are squeezed, and the soil is sprinkled (mulched) by humus, compost, straw or peat layer in 4-6 cm.
Curly roses should be planted so that the vaccination place is 8-10 cm below the surface level, which contributes to the development of graft escapes. After landing, roses should also be dipped. If a curly rose It will grow at the wall at home, then the distance from the wall should be at least 50 cm. The plant is planted at an angle to the wall.
It is recommended to plant a strambered rose by attaching her trunk to the backup, otherwise it will not stand one's own severity. The backup is installed in the pit before the plant is placed there. The backup must be durable and reach the crown to protect the plant from a strong wind. Rose is attached to the backup at the crown level firmly and so that the leash can not get along the trunk and the support.
Wooden staircase leading a pink bush to a tree. When boarding pink bushes, think about inserting a strong guard into the lower part of the planting hole. This operation is performed before installing the pink bush so as not to damage the roots. When it is possible, preferent with a pink bush in bare roots, so as not to pierce the root ball with a guardian, take care not to tighten the ties to subsequently call the throttling ball.
The guardian is necessary for pink bushes and crying. These roses are varieties, graft with a variable height, provided by an energetic "wild" rose, which serves as a combination. The vaccination point must be absolutely protected from frost in winter, and you must take care to remove all greedy forms on the stem.
The process of planting roses
Soil preparation for roses
On the spot where we plan to plant a rose, we should remove weeds, to accurately and easily support the soil, prepare landing pits. The soil where the rose will grow, you need to move to a depth of 40-50 cm and make large doses organic fertilizers At the rate of 1.5-2 kg of manure, compost for each bush. Mineral fertilizer is also made. Useful and making oven ash.
A rose pit digs up wide and deep (60x50 cm) so that after planting the place of the eyepiece at a seedling was 5 cm below the ground level.
For spring landing, landing pit is better to cook in autumn, for autumn - in spring. If it does not work, the pits need to prepare at least two or three weeks before landing. Making fertilizers and feeding are mandatory. In severe clay soils, sand is added and dripped, in sandy - humus. 10 days before the landing, the holes are digging with a depth of 50 cm for core-effect roses and 70 cm - for graft, and poured them with water. After the water is absorbed, about three shovers of humus mixed with Earth are put into the landing pit. A week after these land procedures, seedlings can be planted.
Choose a chunky, low grade, which is better adapted for this culture, and proportionally distribute the pot on the development of a pink bush. Schedule 30 cm in diameter and depth for miniature roses, 40 cm for dwarf roses and 50 cm for classic bush or small climbers.
This pot must be drilled to ensure the evacuation of excessive water. Preferably, it is preferable to use a terracotta pot, whose porosity is favorable for roots. To improve drainage, place 5 cm gravel, fragments, clay balls or pozzolan on the bottom of the pot.
10-12 days after the autumn planting at the plant, small young roots are formed in the plant, which are harvested and warm to the aircraft of shelter. In the spring, such roses develop simultaneously and the root, and the above-ground part, a strong bush is quickly formed. They bloom at the same time with old.
Plugging roses
Regardless of what time of year, the bush was planted, immediately after landing, it is plunged by the above-ground part, leaving only the upper part of the shoots is uncomfortable. This stimulates the rooting of a young seedling, with autumn landing protects it from frosts, and with a spring - from the hot sun. If the plants are planted in the spring, they differ them when young shoots begin to grow; If in the fall - then only after winter, when warming up. It is better to do it in cloudy or rainy weather, either in the evening.
To get a good substrate, make a mixture. Place the pink bush into your pot and fill it with a mixture to the top of the pot so that the transplant point is flush with the surface. Keep in mind that pink bushes require more attention than on the open soil. Regular watering is needed. However, be careful not to drown your pink bush. Finally, the only food that rose can find is the one you want to give: make regular fertilizers during its growing season.
Frequently asked issues of gardeners
Remove all the faded flowers so that the pink bush does not end like fruit. Avoid planting a pink bush in a place recently busy predecessor. In fact, many roses produce toxins to the soil to preserve the congeners from their territory. The question of whether the vaccination point should be buried, is the subject of disputes: in the past, experts recommended that the graft is located a little over the Earth, and today they are increasingly played to bury to avoid, on the dullness, the development of hidden eyes and the appearance of gourmets.
Optimal distances between roses
When landing large number Roses The optimal distance between them largely depends on the size of the bush and its purpose.
Between miniature roses, the average distance is 35-50 cm, between the roses of the Grandiflower group, Floribunda and tea-hybrid - 60 cm, between the curly and park - from 60 cm to 1 m, between the fleecers - 1-1.2 m. If it is created hedge, roses need to plant close (approximately the distance between them - 40-50 cm), and for the shelter, the creation of the arch is planted one wound plant. Pleet varieties are better to plant 1-2 m at supports, arches.
It is not recommended to plant roses too thick: they will begin to root, blossom to blossom and lose foliage. In addition, with thickened landings it makes it difficult to care for plants, especially pruning and loosening. Rare roses landing is also undesirable: summer the soil around the bushes is heavily heated and dries.
When the conviction was buried, it may happen that the grafted person develops its own roots that some consider meaningless because this practice makes a chance that plays useless there. The role of the mediator between the base and the subject and, thus, to ensure the best adaptation of one to another. This argument seems completely justified, especially when a person is in the presence of the Earth in this case, only the use of a suitable crossing allows you to grow roses in good conditionsAnd there are many varieties, the energy of which is not enough to allow them to abandon the supply of juice from the stock.
Rose trim
Crop roses need annually in the spring, after a couple of weeks after the insulation is removed, the leaves have not yet blocked, but the kidneys are already swollen.
Spring trimming of roses is called molding. She is done by removing the shelter from plants, approximately in the mid-end of March.
Pruning should be carried out only with a sharp garden knife or a secateur. The slice should be 5 mm above the kidney with a slight inclination from it. The shoots are cut to healthy wood, on the kidney, located on the outside of escape.
Cut is needed old, sick, dry and weak shoots. The miniature roses do not only cut the old branches, but also shorten all the shoots. In large and multi-scale, weak shoots are cut over the fifth-sixth kidney, leaving the rest longer. Curly leaves only a few strongest shoots. Stambling roses, grafted to high trunks, cut all the shoots, leaving the screens of about 20 cm long.
Roses blooming once do not cut off. Roses Floribunda cuts the inflorescences to the first escape or on the kidney oriented outward. Tea-hybrid roses flowers are removed with two leaves. Source varieties of roses and rosehip enough to trim only for giving them beautiful view. So that these roses are large, it is necessary to remove part of the barriers.
However, when you have a good soil of pink lips, it can be useful to leave the subject on its roots, thus avoiding the greedy and the durability of shrubs has increased significantly. In the regions with severe frosts, the vaccination point is buried, which protects against frost. They need support for development. Fruit treeswhich produce both flesh and dried fruits are more difficult to maintain than other categories, and can be sold in many forms that determine the distance between two trees, trimming and form of your fruit tree.
Good and bad neighbors of roses
Roses, like people, - with some plants they are good, and with others - not very ...
Perfectly feels like a queen of flowers next to Clematis, decent satellites are also - velvets, calendula, sparking, crocuses, hosts, akvelus, gladiolus, petunia. Very nice if an edible or decorative garlic or lavender will grow next to the rose. Their essential oils contain biologically active substances - phytoncides that protect pink bushes from pests and diseases.
Does not prevent Roses Mac, Lavender, Narcissus, Wormwood Belaya, Flox, Astilba. Tulips, lilies, lilyers, dolphiniums, primroses and ferns will be neutral.
But near the gamers, cramps, stamps, astro, iris, peony, pansy eyes, fragrant peas, Turkish cloves, rose cereals feels very bad - they oppress it.
Location The ideal place for fruit tree is sunny and wind protected. For berries Prefer a slightly shaded place The presence of the wind tends to damage to trees, complicate the work of pollinators and harmfully harvest. Be careful to touch fruit trees according to their adult size, otherwise they can be confused by the development. Also, the form you give your tree as it is developed. For trees trees, more space is required than shrub or embossed trees.
The distance between the two trees on the same row is less than between two rows of trees. Almonds: 4 on 7 m Calsisser: from 1 to 3 m Cherry: from 6 to 12 m Sweet chestnut: from 10 to 15 m Conyassy: from 6 to 7 m Figured tree: from 5 to 8 meters of strawberry: from 30 to 50 cm Raspberry: 1 to 2 m Red Currant: 1 on 3 m Gooseberry: from 1 to 50 m Khaki: from 4 to 6 m Musmula: from 5 to 6 m Walnut: from 3 to 5 m Walnut: from 7 to 9 m, From 15 to 20 m olive: from 6 to 10 m, from 15 to 20 m for a tree, which will remain in place for decades.
Reproduction roses
Roses for the garden can be multiplied by vaccinations (it is this method that is mainly practiced in Ukraine), as well as grain, siblings, division, stalling. And roses are vaccinated. Let us describe and other ways. 
Graft. Roses are vaccinated (with a stalk or eye) on the laying, which are grown from cuttings or rosehip seeds. In stock should have a powerful, well-branched root system, not to give wild pins, be frost, dull and moisture-resistant, durable and compatible with the lead. The main method of the eyepiece is in the T-shaped section. This vaccination is better to do in mid-July.
First, the root cervial is released from the ground, it is carefully wiped with a piece of fabric. Then there is a T-shaped section on the root neck. The vertical line should be about 2.5 cm, horizontal - about 1 cm. The bark is spread so that it is easy to insert a shield with the kidney.
The next step: from cuttings, sliced \u200b\u200bfrom the middle part of irregular shoots, from the bottom up cut off the shield (piece of bark with sleeping kidney) with a small layer of wood, which is immediately removed. Insert a shield with a kidney into a T-shaped section. The upper, protruding part of the shield, cut at the horizontal cut level. After that, the place of vaccination is tightly wrapped with an inhabituation film. After three weeks, we check the kidney on the survival rate. If she did not blacken, but remained green and a little swelling, the eyepiece went well. Prior to the occurrence of cold plants, grafted plants must be emphasized by the Earth approximately 7 cm above the eyepiece, and in early spring Think slightly lower vaccinations. The upper part of the stock, retreating about 1 cm from the vaccination, cut off on the thorn and remove the eyepiece film. After a couple of weeks, the kidney begins to actively develop, escape appears. For the formation of a bush, shoots pour over the third-fourth sheet. 
Fishing: From 3 to 5 m Pierce: From 7 to 8 m in full wind, 1 m lattice apple tree: from 7 to 8 m in full wind, from 1 to 2 m Relief plum: from 7 to 10 m Bruzlus with fruit: From 2 to 4 m Line: 1 3 m planting fruit tree Fruit trees are sold in two main forms: in bare roots or in containers, in both cases, when you want to put them in your garden, some precautions are needed not to damage Your plant. Naked root: I dig a hole deep enough for all the roots, remove those that are broken or too long with the secateur.
Digging Almost all types of roses are breed, but this method is best suited for soil and plenty. In the spring, the annual stem feels from the bush. In that part of it, which will be in the ground, make a small incision of the cortex directly at the eye, which will stimulate the root formation. The stem is then flex to the ground, laid in a groove with a depth of 10 cm, pinned, fall asleep with fertile land and regularly watered. The upper part of the stem with two-three kidneys should be above the ground in a vertical position. For encouraging the stem in the process of growth pinch. Next spring We can already be separated from the maternal bush and transplant. 
Siblings. So usually multiply parking cornescoatous roses, which are capable of giving root offspring, resulting in the period of intensive growth and departing from the main bush in the form of vertical shoots. In the spring, after thawing the soil, they dig them, processed and put on another place.
Division bush - The optimal method of breeding in the main plethious, park and miniature roses. Early spring, when the kidneys have not yet tried to grow, the bush is digging and divided into parts. Each of the parts should persist root system. Then plants are planted at a permanent place.
Shining - the simplest and available way reproduction. It is well suited for plenty, miniature, soil, schrabras, grandiflower, some tea-hybrid roses. Shining is a few species: green cuttings, weird and root.
Green shuntingcall still summer. Roses breed during the bootonization period. Well-developed, but not too thick annual shoots with color-colored semi-restless shoots during flowering period. The sharp knife is cut from the cuttings with a length of 5-8 cm, with two-time kidneys. The bottom sheet is removed and under its kidney at a distance of 1.5-2 mm make a slant slice. The upper cut is performed above the kidney per 1 cm. Next, the cuttings are treated with any fungicide to prevent fungal diseases, and then a substance that stimulates the root formation. Rooting the cuttings in greenhouses or in room conditions In pots under glass jars or glasses. The prepared substrate is treated with a weak solution of manganese. The cuttings are planted at a slope to a depth of 1.5-2 cm at a distance of 3-6 cm from each other, and the rows are 8-10 cm. The optimal air temperature for successful rooting is 22-25 ° C with a humidity of 80-90%. Periodically, the cuttings must be sprayed, but not to overcoat the land so that the cuttings do not die from the convergence.
As soon as the first leaves appear, the banks take off and the cuttings gradually harde. When the bush is strengthened, it is transplanted for a permanent place.
Reproduction with weathered cuttings. Well suited for curly and miniature roses. Warm cuttings are harvested in the fall, during rose trimming. For the workpiece take well-developed and overwhelmed smooth annual stems with a thickness of 4-5 mm. The upper part of the escape is removed. The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife or a well-honed secateur, with a length of 20 cm, with three-four kidneys each. The cut at the lower end of the cutting is done under the kidney itself; In the upper part of the cutle, the cut should be produced in the middle of intersals (at an equal distance between the kidneys). The cuttings are binding to bundles, spreading in varieties, wrapped in burlap and stored in wet sand until spring at a temperature of 1-2 ° C. In the spring, removes, update the cuts and immediately omit into the water. After driving out of the water, planted inclined into the soil and watered. Only the upper kidney remains visible. After landing, the cuttings are covered with banks or film. When the stalk is rooted, the shelter is cleaned.
Reproduction of semi-resistive cuttings It is carried out when the founding of young shoots the wood begins to ripen, hardening and the bark becomes brown. For a cutlets, the middle part of the semi-restless shoots in the flowering stage is used. The cuttings are harvested with a length of 7-10 cm with 2-3 leaves. Before planting cuttings, the substrate is watered. The cooked cuttings are planted into the ground to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Boxes put on a darkened place and covered with a film. During the period of rooting is important high humidity air optimal temperature (20-22 ° C) scattered sunlight. Cuttings are driving the roots in 3-4 weeks.
Root cuttings They are harvested from underground parts of offspring, which remained in the ground in the form of rhizomes, or from the underground parts of rose bushes. The collected roofers are temporarily added in the basement or empty greenhouse, and in November, it is cut into parts with a length of 3- cm, laid into the boxes, filled with the ground, and add sheet humus. From above sprinkled with a layer of approximately 1 cm. For the winter, the boxes are cleaned into a cool place. The land must be moderatelylastic. Early spring drawers with cuttings exhibit in a cold greenhouse where the root system begins to develop and green shoots appear with leaves. In April, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or soil.
Also verify that the volume of the branches is balanced with the root system volume, otherwise reduce the branches. When placing a tree, be careful that the transplant is above the hole, orient your tree so that the main stem and twigs are straight, then covered the soil, shaking around the roots. Water thoroughly and finish blocking holes to the ground level. The guardian installation allows young tree Develop properly, especially if the young chest is thin and flexible.
Tip: Make a little root ball on the bottom of the hole to be sure that the soil is everywhere under roots, the container: I dug a hole from the depths of the closure, immerse your com in the bucket with water to moisten it. Do not forget to solve the roots so that they develop well in depth. Make sure the volume of the branches is balanced with the root ball. If this is not so, reduce the length of the branches.
note
Usually in the first year all cuttings have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, it is better to maintain them in the basement or cellar at a temperature of 0-5 ° C. And only in the spring rose planted on the ridges for rearing or permanently. Feed young seedlings from cuttings mineral fertilizers You can only when they come down and start growing.
Finally, place the root ball into the hole, making sure that the upper part of the root ball is at the same level as the upper part of the hole. Then add the soil and wet it. Water abundantly and top covered with soil. Chairman of the constant jury of Claus. Laouers, Technical Manager Royal International Competition of Rose "Novel Du Railx".
This chronicle presents the main stages of planting a rose bush, an operation that lies not only to dig a hole in the garden! Note concerns the rooted pink bush, although some considerations are also mentioned for planting a rose bush bought in a pot or container, that is, with a piece.
Watering roses
In summer, roses are watered with estate and warm water: twice a week - young bushes, once - adults. After irrigation and loosening make mulching - the ground around the bushes is coated with 5-8 cm layer of loose organic material. This will prevent evaporation and retain moisture in the soil in the summer drought, will reduce the number of weeds.
The structure of the rose bush
1. Flower. 2. Escape with a flower. 3. Bud. 4. Fruit. 5. Unparalleled sheet. 6. Pull adhesive sheet. 7. Young one-year escape. 8. Perennially leftiest escape. 9. Grocery kidney (eye). 10. Wild escape or wolf from a stock. 11. Place of vaccination. 12. Root neck. 13. Rhizome. 14. Main root. 15. Side roots.
The rose bush consists of an overnight part - the crown, and the underground - root system. The crown make up the shoots of last year, which are called skeletal. Espaces formed from their kidneys in the current season are designated as shooting I order. In turn, from their kidneys, the shoots of the II of the order are formed from their kidney, etc. In most varieties of roses from the lower kidneys of last year's shoots or from the root cervix, powerful fosters of substitution (wenters) are growing. In subsequent years, they will make the basis of the bush. At the end of the summer, the rose bush is represented by skeletal shoots and one-year - I, II and III orders. The root system in roses is urch and, as a rule, goes into the soil at a depth of 50-60 cm.
Diseases Rose
The most common diseases of roses: puffy dew, rust and black spot.
Puffy dew on roses - This is a disease that affects young shoots, leaves, buds. They are covered with a white rode, the leaves are twisted, the shoots are twisted. To cure a plant, in the fall, all the affected shoots must be trimmed, the leaves burn, and the soil is swapped. In the spring for sleeping kidneys spray 2% copper vitriol (200 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron Municipality (300 g per 10 liters of water).
Rust on roses. This diagnosis is set to rose if rusty spots appear on it, and on its lower part - bright orange pads (cluster of the argument of fungus), which are becoming black by autumn, the leaves fall out. Rust defeated, cropped. Early spring up 
the dissolution of the kidneys, plants and the soil are sprayed around by any fungicide-containing copper. Summer spray with 1% burgundy liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water) or treated with the drug.
Black spottedness on roses - These are small rounded brown or black spots with a yellow halo. Over time, they merge, covering almost the entire leaf plate and causing premature leaves. If the disease is detected, patients fallen leaves are immediately assembled and burned. In the fall of plants fed by phosphorus-potash fertilizers (40 g of potassium salt and double superphosphate On 10 liters of water), watering only under the root. And in the spring, before the kidneys, bushes and the soil are blown around with 2-3% Bordeaux liquid (200-300 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron vitrios (300 g per 10 liters of water).
Pest rose
The big problem for roses are pests. The most common ones are: Whew rosal, web tick, shield, rotary sawmill.
The larvae and adult insects settle on the leaves and ends of the shoots, suck the juice and cause deformation. In damaged plants, buds are not disclosed. The pest is developing in ten or more generations.
In order to prevent the progression of the disease, the plant provides a flow of fresh air, respect the dosage of nitrogen-containing drugs. If the leaves are amazed, they are removed, and the plant is sprayed with soapy or nasty of nettle. Avoid the use of chemical preparations. 
These flying insects are sucking from buds, ready to dissolve, juice. Damaged petals are deformed, brown spots appear on them.
Cobbled tick. When the tick appears on the bottom side of the sheet, a web is visible, and the top is covered with yellow dots. Method of struggle: processing of wild ivy, acaricides of Sanmight and Caesar.
Shield Can settle on dry, and in wet areas. On the plant leaves the allocation on which the fungus appears afterwards.
Method of struggle: treatment with paraffin or mineral oil.
To combat trips, a spider tick and a flap, plant treatment with influences and solutions is used. 
Rosal sawl. Its larvae winter in the soil under the bushes of roses in a silk cocoon. In June, adult sawers come out of the pupae, and the female lays eggs under the skin of a young escape. In these places, the skin cracks, and the escape is twisted. The larvae feed on the leaves, sparking them from the edges, not the touch of alkali. Method of struggle: If the plant lesion is detected, the bushes sawer is treated with a solution of one of the following preparations: "Fufanon" (10 g per 10 liters of water), "Inta-Vir" or "Spark" (1 tablet on 10 liters of water). Preventive spraying is carried out before the afraid of the kidneys. In the autumn, you should collect and burn all the plant residues and pull the ground under the bushes.
Rose shelter for winter
In September, watering and feeding are reduced. Before the shelter (before frosts), the leaves are better removed (trim). They are covered with roses by the method of extracting the ground to a height of up to 40 cm, or wrapped in their agrofiber. Pleet roses Remove, laid on the material that will save the shoots from moisture, and wrap. Stumbling Roses Before wrapped in the ground. Almost all varieties of park roses do not need in shelter.
Fertilizer and feeding
Since roses can grow in one place for many years, before planting the soil, the fertilizers are well refilled - for each square meter 6-8 kg hovering up, up to 200 g wood ash, up to 20 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt. To feed roses with mineral fertilizers when the seedlings come down and start growing. In late May - early June, a nitrogen fertilizer can be made (15-20 g / m 2), at the end of June and in July - nitroposku (20 g / m 2), in August - superphosphate (40 g / m 2) and potassium salt (20 g / m 2). This is the main feeding before flowering. If the rose fell with nitrogen-containing drugs, then from mid-July they are no longer introduced. Until the middle of July, magnesium sulphate (20 g / 10 l) is carried out. This is the time of sparing roses.
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Purchase roses for landing
As always, the summer flew quickly, leaf falls, in front of winter. And, of course, flowers lovers begin to think about how to plant in their garden next season. Roses never come out of fashion. The planting material is on sale, and at the same time, the opportunity to deceive or be deceived. In order to give our readers information about the current state of the roses market and how and where to buy landing material, we interviewed enthusiast-rosewood, the head of PE "Roses in the Garden" Vladimir Viktorovich Vyshysvetseva.
What roses prefer are grafted or cornesological?
If you grow seedlings for yourself, it is easier to vaccinate roses. Naid only have a rosehip that does not give root row, and be able to vaccinate. If you buy roses, then it is important how they will grow in your garden. And here the advantages are usually kinobocobal.
Why?
Most of the varieties of the core roses blooms are plentiful than graft. But for amateur gardeners 10-15% of the difference in the number of colors is almost invisible. But other benefits are more important.
What?
Grafted roses can give a unwanted "wild" pig. This is the more likely that the rose producer roses. The fact is that rose rose rose robby. In the middle lane for open soil Rosa Canina rose rose is best suited (dog rose in Latin), and even that is not all, but specially selected, not giving a row. Unfortunately, I did not have to deal with domestic grafted roses that would not give a "wild" sworn. It is good if you can easily produce de the foundation and cut. Sometimes it is necessary to damage the part of the root system. Inexperienced flower can not notice the growth of "wild" stroke, and after a while she will suppress the cultural part of the rose. In addition, I drew attention to the fact that many varieties with twisted roses are young strong shoots coming from the place of vaccinations, often get out of the base from sharp gusts of wind. If all the shoots are lost, then roses lack the forces on the formation of new ones, and she dies. These varieties, but on their own roots, I did not notice such a phenomenon.
And which roses live longer - Vaccinated or cornesological?
In my opinion, the core roses are more durable. I, for example, the six roses of the morning of Moscow live more than 35 years and are not going to die. The grafted rose, from which the cuttings were taken for breeding, died 3 years after landing. It is believed that grafted roses over time go to their own roots. However, in my opinion, this is not always happening. At least in old, ten-year vaccinated roses, the root system is as a rule.
What other advantages in Corresponding Roses?
Most of the core roses (with the exception of roses with a powerful increase) roots do not go into very deep soil layers.
And what does it matter for gardeners?
Can be limited to a smaller depth landing pit (For those who have groundwater close), if necessary, it is easier to feed roses.
Why basically sell graft roses?
Due to the features of production technology. It would seem that the shilling roses is easier, but in mass production it is less technologically technologically.
What to do, if you do not manage to get the core roses?
Well, then buy grafted.
And when is it best to buy rose saplings?
In the middle lane of Russia, it is best to purchase roses with an open root system in mid-October.
Why?
In the fall, seedlings are larger than spring; In addition, the kidneys on roses after landing do not have time to germinate to winter frosts; In addition, a slight dryness of the above-ground part of roses reduces the risk of frost damage. Roses seedlings are now sold almost year-round. This is good, and bad. It is bad because roses are not buying when it is best to plant them, and then when the landing itch reigns - in early spring, in summer, at the beginning of autumn.
What to do?
There are two main options for choosing roses and, accordingly, two options for dealing with their own errors or attempts to deceive you.
What?
First, you can buy a rose in the container (with a closed root system).
And if the variety you like selling only with an open root system?
Then buy a sapling better either at the beginning of the vegetation (spring), or at the end (late autumn). Roses with an open root system purchased at another time (especially early autumn), experienced gardener May be saved, but newcomers are better not to take.
What should I pay attention to when buying seedlings?
Roses with an open root system should first check the roots. They should be light yellow color, without growths.
And if the roots are dark?
So they are either dirty or dead. Then they need to wipe with a damp cloth, at least in some places. If the roots are light along the entire length, then you can not check- They are alive. If dark, then you need using a secaterator or knife to check the root on the cut (naturally, you need to start from the roots' tips). If on the cut root white or light yellow, then everything is in order. If the root of the root is dark (it will first die), then the rose will not come to life. Roots may be damaged partially- from above or below. If they died from below (root tips), as a rule, due to drying in the process of transportation and storage, it is not scary. It is enough to cut the ends of the roots and moisturize.
And if the roots died to the fair (extinct winter)?
So rose is not alive.
But somehow uncomfortable to study the roots when buying seedlings. Maybe there are any other ways to assess the planting material?
The shovel buyer who is uncomfortable to wipe the roots, and even more so crop them, you can advise to examine the kidneys on roses. If some of the kidney roses clearly go into growth, and some do not have, then it is better to take with waking kidneys, but without big sprouts. Although there is no 100% guarantee. An experienced seller can make the kidney exist even from roses with dead roots.
And as ideally, the above-ground part of roses with an open root system should look like?
This is not as important as the state of the roots. Although it is desirable that the kidneys are not strongly sprouted (see photo from above), the stem was not over.
How to pack purchased seedlings?
Immediately after buying a rose, we should wrap in a wet cloth or paper.
And if you put a rose in a few days?
Store a seedling to landing need in a cool place. The temperature depends on the storage period. If you need to store more than a week, it is better to provide a positive temperature close to 0 ° C (refrigerator). It is important that the roots do not germinate with white young roots without landing.
Well, and roses with a closed root system to buy, probably easier?
No, here also have its own pitfalls. Since the unified concept of "closed root system" is not, then options are possible.
What kind?
It is best when the rose has long been (at least a month) grows in a container or after transshipment from a smaller container, or after extracting from the soil. Such a rose root is well the earthen com (which is easy to check), healthy foliage and not fading. Foliage- A good rose health indicator, including its roots. If the roots died, after a few minutes outdoors fade leaves on young shoots, and in an hour- And on mature.
The only thing that should be fear is the fact that the roots could be partially damaged (for example, frost or heat) relatively recently. In this case, the foliage will still save a healthy look, will be green, and then pale or yellow. Then the rose will be a month or different, until the root system is restored.
How to make sure that the root system is not damaged?
It is necessary to inspect the earth com. On its surface (if you carefully remove from the pot), young white or yellow roots should be visible (they are very fragile and suffer primarily from unfavorable conditions).
Is it worth buying those roses that are sold in beautiful cardboard boxes?
It is not clear where these roses are taken. Firms selling them change every year or two. This is just that time to make sure that a miracle surviving stupid, filled with wax, was not at all the variety that was depicted on a colorful wrapper. Apparently, with a planned spring spring replacement of roses in foreign greenhouses (after winter pastures), someone does not be lazy to collect discarded plants. They are packaged in beautiful boxes and under fictional names (so as not to get out before originals) are sent to Russia. Prices for such roses are always "below market". But the survival rate of them, as well as the growth rates of survivors extremely low. And enough about them.
And how do you feel about the fact that roses with an open root system coming from abroad even from good suppliers, some of our "distributors" seed into pots and sell in this form?
As a rule, it is associated with concerns that roses on the way could suffer. These fears are not in vain. Such roses (in containers, but without leaves) is better not to take. Very difficult the next day, when you find dead roots in a pot in a pot, something to prove, especially in the presence of a philosopher agronoma (I will remind you that the philosopher is the person who can prove that black- it's white and white- black). By the way, the link of these people to the "thrust roots" around the roots should not be misleading. Such "converting roots" are able to please the eye more than one month after the death of the rose. Living crustaceans should be white or light yellow.
What else to pay attention to when buying roses with a closed root system?
If you spring somewhere at the exhibition you will see the stalk of the rose stem, ending with a flower, then alert. Two months before that, a cultural rose was put on the segment of the rose rose, in the process of distillation, all the forces were directed not to growing a full-fledged plant, but to receive a flower. Yes, and Rosa itself, first of all, spends its strength to continue the kind, that is, on the same flower. As a result, the seedling is offered for sale at the moment when it is most weakened by flowering. Such a rose would be in a good way to grow a few months. And it is bought by newcomers who are not able to prepare a plant to wintering. In addition, the vaccination place will remain vulnerable, the rose can easily break away from the gust of the wind or the touch of the bird. It should also loosen the vaccination strapping on time. In general, this is not a full-fledged seedling, but a semi-finished product.
When are roses placed with a closed root system?
In principle, this can be done throughout the growing season, but best time - Start or end of the summer season. When landing in April-May you will have enough time in order to prepare a rose for winter. And when landing at the end of September- October you can guarantee good wintering by buying seedlings with affected shoots.
And how to determine what she ridicked?
In the majority cultural varieties Roses Young unbearable shoots have a reddish or dark red color. As aging, they are green. It is best if the branches of roses are green (caused) all over to the top of the top, and this cream is not cut and also green, with affected (not soft and again green) leaves. But that rarely happens. Bowl of all the ends of the branches are unseen or circumcised before selling. These are half-winged roses. The part of the escape that rushed, with proper shelter Winter will survive. The unseen part of our winter will not survive even under the shelter. "Not tenants" and the part of the rided branch, from which the unbearable second-order escape is growing. Thus, on a rose there should be no strong unseen (reddish) shoots (or hemp from them).
But there are roses that have young shoots originally have a green color. As in this case, determine what shoots do you have?
If foliage has been preserved, then on young shoots it is clearly more tender, and the tint of young shoots is different. In 2-3-year-old seedlings, the mature branches will distinguish and beginner, even if they are no longer green.
And how do you feel about the summer landing?
As a rule, when a summer landing begins, active growth of shoots in the late summer- early autumn. These shoots do not have time to grow to winter and die from the first frost. Summer landing roses requires greater experience from gardener.
(Garden and garden number 7, 2004)