How to prune trees correctly. Pruning young fruit trees

18.04.2019 Preparing plants for winter

What fruit trees and shrubs need regular care, every gardener knows. Moreover, this is known even to supporters of pristine natural beauty. Main function plants in the garden is fruiting, and its implementation is possible only under one condition: if the gardener how to prune trees, and, most importantly, when it needs to be done.

Performing this procedure will allow the crown of the plant to form correctly for its optimal further development. Only a properly pruned branch will be able to receive enough light and air, which will positively affect its fruitfulness. In addition, with the help of pruning, the plant is sanitized, which activates its defense mechanism against various diseases. This article will focus on pruning plants and the main features of this procedure.

The key to success when pruning trees and shrubs is the right tools. So, you cannot do without:

garden hacksaw;
secateurs;
air secateurs;
garden var.

Now let's take a look at the gardener's arsenal separately.

Garden hacksaw

A saber-shaped gardening tool whose blade tapers at the end. Characteristic feature hacksaws are special teeth with spaces between them. The purpose of these gaps is to prevent sawdust from accumulating on the blade when cutting.

This is what a garden hacksaw looks like

Whenever possible, choose a special hacksaw for pruning trees, rather than a regular construction hacksaw. The difference between the two is the web angle for convenience. In a garden tool, the canvas has a specific shape, which greatly facilitates the work process.

Secateurs

A pruner is a hand-held garden tool designed to remove shoots. The shape and principle of operation of the pruner is similar to conventional scissors, therefore it is also called "garden shears".

Pruner is an essential attribute of every gardener

When choosing a pruner for gardening work, give preference to a regular tool, without a ratchet mechanism. Firstly, it is much more expensive than a regular pruner, and secondly, a ratchet pruner is not very convenient for gardening.

Air secateurs

A variety of pruning shears, designed for pruning branches at high heights. The principle of operation is the same as that of a delimber, but the blade is driven by a rope, rope or wire (depending on the model).

Used for hard-to-reach branches

To trim trees with an air pruner, certain skills are required, because throughout the entire time you need to monitor the rope so that it does not get stuck among the branches. In addition, you have to maintain balance, which makes the task a little more difficult.

Important: Use extremely sharp and clean blades when pruning trees. Only in this way can you avoid the appearance of torn surfaces, which is fraught with the appearance of diseases on the branches. Upon completion of work, all blades must be cleaned and lubricated with a small amount of oil.

Garden var

Taking out all necessary tools, do not forget also the garden var. It is a special substance for application to tree cuts. By its structure, the substance is thick, it does not dissolve in water. By covering the "wound" on the plant, you protect it from bacteria, small pests and insects. In addition, the garden pitch is able to prevent juice leakage.

You can buy a "miracle ointment" in the store, or you can make a garden var with your own hands.

Var Zhukovsky do it yourself

To make a garden varnish you will need:

wax;
rendered beef fat;
rosin.

The amount of all ingredients in the recipe must be the same. If you have not managed to get beef fat, then it can be replaced with lamb fat - this will not make the effect worse. So, having taken out all the necessary ingredients, we proceed to the preparation of the var.

Garden varnish application

Preparation

Step 1. Melt all ingredients in separate vessels.

Step 2. Drain everything into one container and stir well.

Step 3. After cooling down, pour the resulting mixture into a bucket filled with cold water.

Step 4. IN cold water the mixture should curl up into a single pile.

Step 5. Take out the mixture and, stirring constantly, wrap it in paper oiled with vegetable oil.

You can not bother and buy a garden pitch in the store

It is recommended to use such a var in a warm period, since the cold negatively affects its structure (garden var hardens at low temperatures). After treating the wound, cover it with a rag. This should be done to protect against bees that flock to the wax.

Cutting techniques - what they are

Depending on the purpose of the trimming work, a certain cutting technique is selected. There are three types of slice:

on the kidney;
on the ring;
to the side branch.

But let's take everything in order.

Kidney cut

The use of this pruning technique will allow you to make your own adjustments to the growth of the branch, changing it in the required direction. Take a one-year-old growth shoot and choose a bud on its plane that grows in the direction you need. Hold the secateurs so that the cutting insert points towards the part you want to keep. The angle for the cut must be chosen small so that a stump does not form. The reference point for the correct cut will be a conventional perpendicular drawn from the kidney: it should not coincide with the cut line.

How is the kidney cut

Important: Do not cut at a large angle, as this will dry out the bud (it will not receive enough nutrition). You should also not leave a stump that is too large - it will also dry out soon.

You can use this type of cut, leaving the hemp, on shrubs.

Ring cut

This type differs from the previous one in that a whole branch is subject to removal, the development of which is not going well. For example, it grows inside the crown, which depletes the tree. In addition, such a branch practically does not bear fruit, so its removal is the most rational decision. If possible, prune with pruning shears. If the thickness of the branch does not allow this, use a garden hacksaw.

The first number shows an example of a cut for a ring

You can find unusual bark clusters at the junctions - these are the so-called rings. Draw the cuts along the outside of them. Otherwise, there is a high probability of the appearance of a wound, the healing of which occurs very slowly.

Side branch cut

The peculiarity of this type of cut, in principle, like its main difference from other types, is the transfer of the main branches to the lateral ones. As a result, the side branches become the main ones. The pruning process takes place in such a way that the cut is parallel to the direction of growth of the side branch. Thus, optimal conditions will be created for quick wound healing. The purpose of this technique is primarily aimed at reducing the height of the crown, limiting it, and so on.

Performing a transfer to a side branch

Throughout the working process, everything needs to be done according to certain rules: start trimming from the bottom and gradually go up. Try to avoid peeling off the bark by cutting thick branches in several stages.

Step back 10-12 centimeters from the intended place of the cut and make a small gash. It is necessary to carry out the gash from the bottom.
Cut the branch carefully.
Get rid of the formed hemp.

Use a garden pitch for cuts that are larger than 3 centimeters in diameter. They should first be cleaned with a knife.

How to prune trees: types of pruning

There are different goals for gardeners to resort to pruning. There are several types of pruning depending on the purpose.

Formative

It is used to increase the resistance to physical stress of the skeletal part. Thanks to formative pruning, you can create a crown with the required dimensions.

Formative pruning with pruning shears

Using this view at the end winter season- in February, you will make the regrowth of the branches more intense and faster. But be careful not to delay this look. The fact is that carrying out similar operations in March or early April will suspend the growth of the plant.

Regulatory

This type is used for the whole plant, and not in relation to its individual parts. Its mission is to preserve the open center of the plant by removing intertwined, diseased and dry branches. It is not necessary to trim conductors, the formation of which has just begun. The only exception can be attributed to some weakly growing varieties, the development of which is impossible without radical pruning.

How to make adjusting pruning

The skeletal part of the tree should also not be overloaded - the distance between the branches of the first order should not be less than 50 centimeters. This also applies to small branches. The most favorable periods for this type of pruning are considered the beginning of April and the end of August.

Rejuvenating

Ideal when increasing the fertile period of the tree and extending its life in general. The scheme is quite simple: with an increase in shoots by 12-15 centimeters per year, the branches are shortened. This allows dormant and accessory buds to be awakened. The most favorable periods for this procedure are spring, late winter and early autumn.

Limiting the height of the crown of an adult tree

After carrying out anti-aging pruning, your "favorites", of course, will soon be able to reciprocate you, which will manifest itself in the form of beautiful and juicy fruits.

Restorative

There are many reasons why gardeners use restorative pruning. These include:

shortening of branches has not been done for a long time;
the plant suddenly grew upward or outward;
the middle of the crown is bare;
decrease in yield;
the tree froze a little.

The purpose of this tree pruning is to return to original dimensions.

All these cases force the resort to restorative pruning, the purpose of which is to improve the yield of the tree and resume normal shoot growth. The word "normal" means the growth of shoots at least 25 centimeters per year. To achieve all this, you only need to donate a small number of branches and a few hours of personal time. As a reward, your plants will grow, bloom and bear fruit normally again.

Sanitary

The whole point of sanitary tree pruning comes down to removing rotten, diseased and dry branches, which improves their health. The main points of sanitary pruning:

removal of "pins";
cutting top shoots;
cutting of rotten, entwined, broken, dry and diseased branches;
creation of a crown favorable for tree growth with good ventilation and light transmission.

Getting rid of diseased branches improves the general condition of the garden dweller, increasing its immunity.

Pay attention to rotten and diseased branches

Pay attention to the location of the branches. Sometimes shoots appear on young trees (in their crown), the growth of which occurs at an acute angle in relation to the trunk. As they grow, they reach a fairly large thickness, sometimes reaching the thickness of a tree trunk.

Strong, gusty winds can easily tear off these branches, resulting in lacerations. First, they (wounds) spoil appearance, and secondly, they increase the risk of tree disease with a fungus. To prevent such troubles, it makes no sense to allow a large overgrowth of branches of this kind.

Conduct sanitary pruning it is possible all year round, with the exception, perhaps, of frosty days.

Pollarding

Enough interesting view tree pruning, the essence of which is to regularly cut off young shoots. As a result, 10 centimeter stumps should remain. This procedure is carried out annually.

Such an unusual name for the type of pruning

The cut tree takes on a very neat appearance, both in a leafless state and in a green crown. Fun fact: Originally, this method was used by Dutch peasants to extract twigs for weaving baskets or to feed livestock.

Utilitarian

The essence of this type consists in pruning individual branches and (or) changing the shape of the crown. If you want to create a free corridor without branches hanging over it, then sanitary pruning is performed.

Which branches are cut off:

that they run into structures;
that hang over buildings;
what obstructs traffic lights, road signs, or reduces visibility at intersections;
that they obscure the windows, thereby impairing the lighting in the room;
that grow dangerously close to power lines;
that are too low to the ground, interfering with the normal movement of pedestrians.

An illustrative example of utilitarian cropping

The last point is called "lifting", that is, raising a part of the crown by cutting off the branches at the lower level.

When to prune a tree?

Restoration of lost branches of the crown and rejuvenation experts strongly recommend carrying out in early spring... This promotes the growth of branches, which positively affects the fertility of the tree. When young trees are formed and rejuvenated in late spring, the result will not be so convincing. This is due, first of all, to the accumulation of nutrients that are located in the roots. They are evenly distributed over all growth points that remain.

Late pruning is a cut of blossoming buds, to which spare buds have already arrived. nutrients... But those kidneys that remain also have a small amount of storage substances. Their number is quite small, so the growth rate of new shoots will decrease. This pruning period, despite its disadvantages, is used by gardeners (albeit extremely rarely) to reduce the height of the tree. In this case, the presence of strong recovery shoots is not required at all.

The choice of pruning time depends on the gardener's choice of the method and type, therefore it is carried out throughout the year. But the main pruning is carried out during a period when the buds have not yet had time to swell, namely, in early spring. A little later (autumn-winter), territorial pruning is carried out. Then trees are processed only in zones with a warm climate. Otherwise, the bark may be damaged by severe frosts.

Throughout the summer period, only the removal of tops (recovery shoots), formed at the site of large cuts, and the pinching of the shoots are carried out. No more pruning measures in summer period are not undertaken.

Features of winter pruning

There are practically no restrictions on winter pruning, with the exception of one: it is not recommended to carry out work in severe frost, since in such weather the tree becomes very fragile. Therefore, you can easily damage the branches, the healing of which is very slow at low temperatures. Keep an eye on the thermometer on the street - when the temperature drops below 8 degrees of frost, it is highly discouraged to carry out such work.

Pruning trees in winter

Key Features:

pruning, as in all periods, is necessary with a delimber or pruner;
the first step is to get rid of damaged and dead branches;
leave the middle of the branches open - this is necessary to access large branches;
in winter, you can control the height of the tree by removing the excess;
start pruning somewhere in February;
use only clean, sterilized garden tools for quick wound healing;
upon completion of the work, treat the surfaces of the sections with garden varnish.

The benefits of pruning in winter:

obtaining accurate and high-quality cuts;
the trees are drowsy, so they hardly experience any stress.

In the absence of leaves, you can assess the condition of the crown more accurately, while detecting all kinds of flaws. Use a saw for thick branches. Pre-cut the branches to be cut from the opposite side. This will help protect the tree from scuffing and, as a result, from injury.

Spring pruning features

Start Spring Bulk Pruning fruit trees recommended before the start of sap flow. The ideal time period for this procedure is the period when sap flow is not yet there, but it should begin soon.

Sap flow Is an increased movement of dissolved mineral and organic matter in trees, which is accompanied by the accumulation of sap in the wood and roots. This process intensifies in summer and spring.

Why you need to select right time? First of all, at this stage, the wounds on the body of the plant heal much faster. This will cut down on hassle. Optimal time for pruning trees can be different, depending on the species. This makes it a little easier for gardeners to plan their work.

With proper treatment of the wound, two weeks after the beginning of sap flow, a kalyus (a scar that isolates an open wound) will grow. Correct processing means using a mixture made from yellow clay, garden varnish and oil paint. For work, choose a warm sunny day with a temperature of 5 degrees Celsius or more.

Spring pruning of fruit trees

As for shrubs, it is forbidden to remove excess branches in the spring. Especially those shrubs that are going to bloom in spring, and their buds grow only on old branches. Otherwise, you can kill the plant without having time to enjoy its flowering.

Features of autumn pruning

Most trees tolerate this poorly enough, and some of them die after a while (plum, pear or cherry). If absolutely necessary, try to postpone this venture until the next spring. In addition to the listed fruit trees, newly planted trees are also doomed to death. When pruning a young growth, not only the cutting site itself is exposed to infection, but also quite big square around this cut, and in this situation, the quick and complete recovery of the plant is questionable.

As soon as it gets warmer outside, you can start the autumn pruning.

A small young seedling, distorted by wounds (albeit small), most likely will not survive the winter. And the remaining buds, located on the cut branches, will not open well in the spring. To prevent such excesses, several recommendations should be followed.

The pruning scheme for fruit trees is quite simple: thin out the crown, this will improve the ventilation of the plant and lighting.
Repeat this procedure annually for the seedlings until the crown is completely formed. Remove all young growth, leaving only a couple of main branches.
Thinning an old tree should not be done so often. It is enough to do this every two years. When doing this, cut off any improperly growing shoots.
The autumn time is good because during this period it is good to remove diseased branches that are covered with lichen. With the onset of winter, infected shoots impair the tree's immunity to frost, which can destroy the plant during the winter period.
Remove all dry branches, as in strong gusty winds they can break off the tree and damage perfectly healthy branches. To do this, use a special garden hacksaw. Do not forget that the removal of dry branches is carried out down to the living tissue of the tree. All remote branches must be immediately burned to prevent the spread of infection.

Tree response to pruning

This process has a phenomenal effect on the plant, improving branch growth. However, this only applies to correct trimming. For example, cutting one leash does not affect the growth of a nearby branch, much less enhances it.

Shortening all branches of the crown completely can activate the growth processes in all branches, due to which awakening occurs a large number previously dormant kidneys and large-scale formation of tops. This method has two sides of the coin. First, the metabolic processes of mature trees are enhanced, improving their development. And the second - young seedlings are negatively affected after this method of pruning. This is why you need to be very careful when choosing a method.

New for gardeners - cordless pruning shears

Mature trees that have not been pruned for a long time, after strong shortening, improve their fertility and resistance to cold. The growth of strong shoots immediately begins to recover, which play a role in the formation of the yield. You will also be able to protect the tree from diseases and pests.

Branches can react differently depending on the degree of shortening. The more you cut, the faster it grows on the remainder of the cut branch. This also applies to the diameter of the cut: the larger it is, the better the ability to grow is manifested.

For optimal results, you are provided with the "golden" gardening rules.

Prune trees regularly, but never do it at -8 ° C or below.
Be a little finicky when choosing tools and a ladder (your health and the health of your garden depends on this).
First of all, get rid of dry, diseased and dead branches.
Disinfect cutting tools (especially after handling diseased plants).
The recommended angle at which branches should move away from the trunk is 45-60 degrees.
Limit the growth of the tops of all stone fruit trees, as well as pear and apple trees. It will only benefit them.
Replace any old, fruitless trees with young seedlings.
Use the experience you get when pruning trees (watch their reactions and draw successful conclusions).
Inspect the trunks periodically for wounds. If you find them, start healing the tree.

Good luck and success in your gardening!

Video - How to prune fruit trees

Recently, in a hardware store, I met my friend, a gardener, Sergei Ivanovich Stepashin. I talked to him. He was buying a garden pitch and two new pruning shears. A woman stood nearby and asked: “Why are you going to the garden so early? There is also waist-deep snow! " Sergei Ivanovich replies to her that it is time to do pruning, otherwise the juices in the trees will wake up.

But the woman again objected with disbelief: “What juices? Apple trees will bloom only in May, there is still a lot of time before that, you will have time. It is inconvenient to cut in the snow. I come to the garden in mid-April, so there are still snowdrifts behind the house. "

Expressing her concern for the inconvenience of the snow, the woman was surprised that Sergei Ivanovich chose the most expensive tool. “They'd take that pruner over there, cheaper.What's the difference than cutting branches? It's good that my apple trees are young, you don't need to cut them at all. "

And then an experienced gardener gave a "lecture" to a talkative customer. All the tips were very valuable, and at my request, he allowed them to be published.

Sergey Ivanovich is an experienced gardener. Everyone goes to him for advice, because in any year he has a harvest. He considers pruning of fruit crops to be very important. It ensures the health of the tree and good, stable yields. There are three main conditions that must be met.

1. Let's start with the timing. Pruning is carried out in late winter or early spring, when the threat of frost with temperatures below -15C passes (in Central Russia, usually from late February to mid-late April). Therefore, dear gardeners, if you come to the garden only by mid-April, then this is the deadline for pruning!

Apple trees really bloom late and do not show signs of life for a long time. But hidden processes take place in them, including sap flow. If pruning is carried out during this period, then the wounds do not dry out for a long time and the branches flow through them with juice. Stone fruit crops wake up much earlier, they must be cut off first.

2. Pruning fruit trees should be done from the first year after planting... Young apple trees need pruning just like any other. You cannot wait for the crown to overgrow and it will have to be greatly thinned out. This is no longer pruning, but execution for a tree. Correct pruning involves the formation of a crown from childhood, that is, the gradual, annual removal of unwanted branches and shortening, changing the shape of the selected skeletal branches.

3. You need to trim only with a sharpened tool... You should be aware that not every tool is suitable for trimming. Cheap pruning shears and loppers are made of soft metal that dulls and burrs quickly. Their blades severely traumatize tissue. A good tool is made of high quality steel, which holds the edge perfectly. This pruner lasts much longer. Naturally, the price for them is higher.

Why shape the crown

When forming the crown, special attention is paid to the choice of future skeletal branches. They must meet the following requirements: angle of departure - 40-60 degrees; in one tier - no more than three branches.

Compliance with the angles of departure is necessary so that in the future the tree, without installing supports, can hold the crop up to 500 kg. At acute angles of discharge, the connection of the branch with the trunk is weak, and the tension "to tear" is quite large. In especially fruitful years, even large branches break. Sometimes the tree falls in half.

Branches with an acute angle of departure are either cut out or folded back by installing spacers (Fig. 2.).

It is also necessary to comply with the condition that there should be no more than three branches in one tier. Otherwise, the crown thickens, and in low light, the yield decreases, the palatability of the fruit deteriorates, the shoots ripen worse and diseases begin to develop.

Pruning young seedlings

Pruning begins in the first year after planting. Seedlings of spring and autumn planting cut the same way. The point of this pruning is to balance the roots, damaged by digging, and the aerial part. Sometimes they do it in the nursery.

Annual seedlings without branching are cut at a height of 80-100 cm above the soil level (Fig. 1, a). This stimulates the formation of lateral shoots from which skeletal branches will be formed.

In a branched seedling of 1-2 years of age, remove all lateral branches at a height of 60-70 cm (Fig. 1, b). Often gardeners feel sorry for the seedling, believing that “it has nothing to cut yet”. But such pruning forms the stem of the future tree. All branches below 60 cm are simply not needed. Below, they are poorly lit and produce a small crop. Over time, they will still have to be cut, but the wounds will be larger.

Branches located above 70 cm are shortened by 1 / 3-1 / 4 part. This is usually done above the 3-5th bud, counting from the base of the shoot (see Fig. 1, c). At the same time, the principle of subordination of branches is observed. The central shoot (leader, or guide) should be 15-20 cm higher than the lateral branches, and the shoots located higher along the stem should be shorter than those below. Typically, a two-year-old seedling leaves 3-4 side branches that are shorter than the guide. In the case when all branches are approximately equally developed and the central shoot is not the leading one in growth, a strong pruning of the side branches is carried out in order to achieve the principle of subordination of tiers. Sometimes the seedling has duplicate shoots (if two adjacent buds have developed on the stem). Leave one, the most well-located branch, and the second is cut into a ring.

Principles of crown formation. The angle of departure of skeletal branches is 40-60 degrees; in one tier - no more than three branches; the leader must be higher than the side branches; the branches of the upper tiers should be shorter than the lower tiers.

After winter, it may turn out that the leader is broken or severely frozen. In this case, it is replaced with the most powerful, closely located shoot, tying it vertically to the hemp left over from the guide, or to a peg stuck into the ground.

The same pruning rules are followed for a three-year-old tree and older. Moreover, the principle of subordination of branches is also observed for lateral skeletal branches. The overgrowing branches on them should be shorter than the lateral conductor. Figuratively speaking, the principle of subordination can be represented as a kind of “rounded triangle” into which the tree itself should fit after the formation of the crown and its skeletal branches (Fig. 3).

In the future, pruning of a young tree is carried out in order to create a light, sparse crown. This should be done not only in spring, but also in summer. For example, in the summer you can see which shoots are growing inside the crown. They are removed immediately while they are still green. Young shoots growing down, pinch. Duplicate shoots are cut or transferred to another position using stretch marks. Green pruning is the most gentle form of pruning.

You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" 2011 № 6.

Of course, changeable weather does not always fit into the usual framework and presents us with surprises in the form of cold snaps or early thaws. Therefore, recommendations regarding the timing should not be taken literally, but relate what is happening on the street with what is written. It is quite possible that it will be possible to fulfill the prescribed for February only at the end of March - beginning of April.

Each region has its own time frame for when to prune fruit trees. For example, the northern ones will noticeably lag behind the proposed schedule, while the southern ones may be ahead. Focus on the trees themselves, they are the best clues.

January-February - during these months, apple trees are also spent in the southern regions, while the middle strip is still wintering. Following the apple and pear trees, pruning is carried out stone fruit crops, as well as currant and gooseberry bushes.
March - the beginning of pruning in middle lane... If there is still snow, you should not rush - wait for the warming.
April - in April, the weather usually improves even in the northern regions, and work is in full swing in every garden. It's time to prune cherries, cherries, apricots - first of all, 5-year-old trees, berry groves are pruned. It is important to be in time before the kidneys open.
May - this month, only planted shrubs are pruned, adult apple and pear trees, if necessary, can get rid of excess shoots even during flowering. However, sections with a diameter of more than 2 cm should be covered with garden varnish without fail..
June - This month is the so-called "green" pruning, when fresh shoots are thinned out. Growers in June pinch the grapes - remove the tops of the shoots to stop the growth of the vine and stimulate the emergence of lateral vines.
July - the "green" pruning of apples and pears is completed, tops and wen breaks out in places where large branches are removed.
August - except for the sanitary removal of branches, no work is expected. But strawberry lovers this month just have something to sweat over.
September-October - After harvest, all broken branches are removed. It is also advisable to remove the stems of blackberries and raspberries that are not bearing fruit during this time.
November-December - in areas with severe winters, gardeners take a break from any work, enjoying the harvest. In warmer climates, these months are good for pruning, but it is best to wait until spring.

Perhaps the most important rule of the gardener, which he must follow - do no harm! Indeed, inexperienced summer residents can greatly slow down the growth of a tree or get a meager harvest due to improper pruning. To prevent this from happening, listen not so much to the advice of experts broadcasting from TV or computer screens, as to your inner voice - in pruning, everything is logical and understandable, if you understand.

Young trees will bear fruit much later with heavy pruning. Sometimes it is better to get rid of one large branch than to get rid of many small ones. The procedure is carried out annually, adhering to the same deadlines. Along with pruning, use and different ways branch deviations - on more horizontal shoots, the crop is usually stronger and ripens earlier.

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Experienced gardeners often disagree about the question "when and how to prune trees correctly?" Nevertheless, they are all unanimous that this procedure is extremely important for the correct growth of fruit trees, the optimal formation of their crown and trunk, increasing the ability of fruiting and the quality of the crop, as well as rejuvenation. garden plants... It is also important to remove deformed, broken, dried out or diseased branches.

Pruning trees

When solving the problem of when to prune fruit trees, it is important to know that their first pruning is done during the planting of one-two-year-old seedlings in a permanent place of growth. In a planted specimen, about thirty to fifty percent of its crown is cut off with a secateurs. The resulting sections should be covered with garden varnish, and then wrapped with electrical tape. Can be used as a putty instead of garden varnish oil paint.

Over the next three years, formative pruning is carried out, allowing you to create a proportional and reliable crown of the fruit tree. On our site, a video is presented on how to prune trees during this period, so that later the tree has a properly formed crown, and its skeletal branches grow thick, do not interfere with each other. Also, the pruning procedure should provide an obtuse angle of growth of the branches of the tree relative to its trunk.

If the question is when to prune trees in the garden and how often to do it, the answer is that young trees require formative pruning every year. During this procedure, it is recommended to cut off up to a third of the length of absolutely all strong shoots growing on skeletal branches and trunk. It is advisable to leave three to four shoots on the branches of a young tree. The rest must be removed without fail.

Problem trimming old garden trees, is also quite solvable. They are pruned as needed. Old and diseased branches are unambiguously removed, as well as branches that have undergone breakdowns and deformations. Also, periodic crown thinning is recommended.

When is the best time to prune trees?

Questions: "Is it possible to prune trees in winter or summer?" - novice gardeners ask quite often. It is important to understand that at different times of the year it is necessary to carry out tree pruning procedures of different importance. The main pruning is usually performed after the end of severe frosts during the fruit dormancy of the trees. It is desirable that it be produced before the onset of the spring growing season. In warm regions, it is performed until the end of February. In the absence of proper experience or in doubt how to prune trees in the spring, for fear of pruning healthy branches, confusing them with damaged ones, you can postpone the pruning procedure until May, when the buds begin to bloom. Formative pruning is also performed at the beginning of summer, while pruning in autumn is mainly done to rejuvenate the tree, to induce the growth of new shoots.

When to start pruning in spring? Very often, such a question is asked to themselves as experienced gardeners and amateurs who are faced with the need to care for the garden for the first time. It's believed that best time for pruning - the end of winter or early spring when the trees have not yet begun to grow again. In this article, we will help you with advice for beginner gardeners on how to prune trees correctly, when it is best to do it and why.

Correct pruning of garden trees - when is it best to do it?

Experienced gardeners know that high-quality and timely pruning of fruit trees, including berry trees, as well as various ornamental or fruit shrubs, helps to increase fertility, fruit quality and maintain the health and beauty of the plant. However, in order to perform pruning correctly, you need to know several techniques and rules, as well as choose the right time and use the right tools for this.

You can start the process of pruning trees with the onset of the first cold weather. As you know, at this time, trees and shrubs fall into hibernation. The main condition is to comply temperature regime... In no case should pruning be carried out in frosty weather, the air temperature must be above 2-3 degrees. In addition, winter pruning has a completely different effect on the tree than spring pruning, especially for such fruit fruits as cherries, cherries and apricots.

Gardening practice shows that uncut trees can withstand winter frosts much better, especially in the northern part of the country, so experts recommend taking a hacksaw or other tool with the onset of the first sunny days of spring, regardless of the type of tree and its age. During this period, the kidneys are still quite young and not swollen, while the weather is quite comfortable for the successful carrying out of the "operation".

The first thing to do is trimmed fruit trees such as apple trees (autumn-winter varieties), apricots, cherries and plums. At a later period, you should start pruning stone fruits, pears and peaches. As for the latter, the best time to prune is when the buds are just forming on young branches.

The best pruning time depends on the region where the fruit tree grows. In the southern regions, the heat comes much earlier, there is more harvest, which means that you can start different types pruning early, while northern trees still hibernate at this time. That is why there is no clearly defined seasonal schedule, and every gardener is guided by the weather and the trees themselves, by which it is often possible to understand whether the time has come for pruning.

Types of pruning - when do trees need it?

Depending on the month in which the tree is pruned, it is usually carried out for a specific purpose, each of which contributes to the formation or maintenance of a certain process during the period of tree growth and fruitfulness. Thus, a distinction is made between:

1. Formative. This type of pruning is most often necessary for young shoots and shrubs that are in a state of constant growth. This type of pruning allows the formation of the required crown size and contributes to giving a silhouette, which allows the trees to more easily bear various loads. It also regulates the yield of each large and small branch. It is best to start formative pruning in March-April, for more intensity of growth. Conversely, doing this type of pruning in winter slows down the intensity, making growth slower.
2. Regulating fruiting. This type of pruning allows you to keep the crown in the correct condition, and to stop young shoots from growing too high, which can overload the tree. With this technique, you can also lengthen the fruiting period or regulate the frequency of fruit emergence. Such pruning is recommended in autumn or late winter, for the spring period, it is usually not typical.
3. Renewal. Essential for rejuvenating old trees, this kind of pruning will cut the top of the crown to give the remaining part more. sunlight and stimulate the growth of new shoots. It is recommended to resort to renewal pruning at the beginning of spring, especially if the annual growth of new branches is from 10 to 15 centimeters. In this case, the branches must be shortened for the appearance of adventitious buds during the flowering period.
4. Revitalizing. Pruning in this case is not aimed at improving the properties of the tree, but at restoring its lost abilities for growth, development and fruiting, which were lost as a result of diseases or improper care.
5. Sanitary. This pruning can be done all year round, and it is aimed at removing dry, diseased or broken branches, which must be removed from the crown. However, even the driest branches are not recommended to be cut in frosty weather. It is also important to consider the age and size of the tree - too intensive pruning can lead to high crown thickening.

Regardless of the type of pruning, you need to choose and prepare the right tools, as well as know how to prune the tree in a given calendar period. Next, we will talk about cutting techniques and the peculiarities of their implementation in spring, autumn and winter.

Choosing a tool and trimming technique - doing everything right

You only need to prune trees with tools such as pruning shears or a garden hacksaw. For cutting branches at a hard-to-reach distance, a scheme or device called an "air pruner" is used. It is a long telescopic stick, on which a standard pruner is attached, and is set in motion using ropes attached to it.

It is better to use a pruning shears without a ratchet mechanism, with sharp blades. This will allow you to delete branches with a single click. When choosing a hacksaw, pay attention to the presence of gaps in the teeth that prevent the accumulation of sawdust. Never use a construction tool to avoid damaging the tree.

All tools must be clean and sharp to avoid the formation of torn surfaces on small and large branches, through which unwanted microorganisms can enter the tree. Additionally, it is recommended to use natural oil paint or a special garden ointment based on petroleum products. With their help, it is necessary to cover up the emerging small and large wounds on the tree.

Cutting techniques - application features

There are several ways to trim. The most common and effective methods are:

A cut for the kidney. This technique allows you to change the direction of growth of a branch, especially young shoots. The cut should be clear and even, with an indent from the bud up to 1 centimeter. The cut should be done at an angle of 45 degrees, while not leaving too large a "stump" over the kidney and not damaging it.
Ring cut. This technique is used when it is necessary to delete a branch completely, for example, if it does not grow properly. You can cut either with a garden hacksaw or with a pruner, in this case it all depends on the thickness of the branch itself. The cut must be carried out carefully and always along the outer edge of the ring.

A "ring" in the language of gardeners is a junction of branches, which is characterized by a corresponding compaction or influx of bark.

Non-selective pruning. In this case, you can carry out a new course of shoot growth, that is, transfer growth from one to another. To do this, using a suitable tool, make a cut at any point on the branch. It is assumed that new tops will begin to grow at the cut site, which will subsequently improve the splendor of the tree crown.

Features of pruning fruit trees - useful tips

Different types of trees need different types trimming. If we are talking about an apple or a pear, then with any pruning, the most important thing is to preserve the central conductor trunk, while it is necessary to observe the terms and make sure that the branches depart from it at a large angle. If the angle shrinks, the branches should be cut, especially if they interfere with others.

Plum trees, unlike others, are bush-shaped, so when caring for them, you must ensure that the crown retains a bowl-shaped shape. Some varieties of plum, for example, "American" grows much faster than European ones, so they will have to be cut several times more often. Also, when caring for a drain, it is important to always leave the crown top open to ensure constant lighting.

Peach and apricot trees from the garden grow even faster than plums, apples or pears, so every year gardeners carry out massive crown pruning. It is important to remove in time those branches that are located too low to the ground. At the same time, remember that the best time to work on stone fruits is the beginning or middle of spring, during the period when they begin to bloom. It is strongly discouraged to prune these varieties of fruit trees during winter.

For normal growth and development of cherries in the garden, in the process of pruning, it is necessary to designate a clear central guide crown like that of an apple tree and make sure that the main crown is, as it were, a tiered type. Unlike peaches or apricots, cherries should not be cut too often, as this thermophilic tree may suffer more frost damage than others.

Regardless of the variety of the fruit tree, it is necessary to systematically remove old, diseased or dry branches as they appear and make sure that the branches grow more horizontally relative to the ground, since vertically located shoots are less fruitful.

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