Pleet roses - these are types of rosehip and some varieties garden roses With long branching shoots. All of them are representatives of the kind of richness and occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening of arbors, walls and buildings, perfectly combined with architectural forms of large and small sizes. Pleet roses are indispensable when creating such decorative garden structures, like pyramids, columns, garlands, arbors and arches. They look great in compositions with other flowers and plants, therefore are as popular as any bush or room rose.

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Landing and care for plenty roses (brief)

• Landing: From the last decade of September to mid-October or from mid-April to the end of May.
• Bloom: From the end of spring to late autumn.
• Lighting: Bright light in the first half of the day, scattered light or half-day in the second.
• The soil: Optimal - moisture permeable fertile loam with deep groundwater.
• Watering: Once every 7-10 days, spending 1-2 buckets of water for each bush.
• Feeding: The bushes of the first year feed only in August with potash fertilizer, the second-year bushes - in full mineral and organic fertilizers alternately, making 5 feeding for the season, and from the third year of life, roses are fed in the same mode, but exclusively by organic. During flowering roses do not fertilize.
• Garter: As a support, you can use the fence, the wall of the house, dry wood Or special designs - lattices, arches and arcs made of metal rods. Garter of shoots to the support is carried out by twine.
• Pruning: In the spring and autumn.
• Reproduction: Seeds, grains, cuttings and vaccination.
• Pests: TLL, COLOUSTING TIRS, TRIPS, ROBAN SPILERS, LAPERATERS, CICADES.
• Diseases: Puffy dew, bacterial cancer, coniring, gray rot, black spot.

Details about growing plenty roses Read below

Pleet Roses - Description

To give general description The plenty roses task is too complicated due to their vast variety, so we suggest you first get acquainted with the classification of plenty roses, adopted in international flower practice.

The first group of plenty roses, so-called curly roses, or roses-rabblers (Rambler) are plants with long-haired or arcuate flexible bright green stems up to five or more. Leaf leaves Rambler leathery, shiny and small. Flowers are weak, simple, semi-grade or terry, up to 2.5 cm in diameter - collected in inflorescences and are located along the entire length of escape. Abundant flowering of plenty roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most of the varieties of frost-resistant and good winters under light shelter. Rambler group plants occurred from such species such as a vihura rose and a multi-flower rose (multiflora).

As a result of the crossing of a group of roses with tea, hybrid-tea, repair roses and a rose Floribunda, a group of plenty roses was formed with shoots up to four meters long, which were called Liazing - Climber, or with plenty large-flower roses - clivimers. The roses of this group are blooming abundantly large flowers - from 4 cm in diameter and more - collected in small loose inflorescences, many varieties bloom twice per season. Flower shape resemble tea-hybrid roses. Plants of this group relative to winter-hardy and are almost not amazed by flourous dew.

The third group, climbing, formed mutating large-flowered bush roses - tea-hybrid, grandiflower and floribunda. Klyignagi differ from the producing species with only stronger growth, later fruiting and even more large flowers - From four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grows single or small inflorescences. Many varieties of claying are repeated. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of a moderate belt with soft warm winter.

Planting a plenty rose

When and where to plan the plenty roses

All types of roses are rather capricious - no wonder the rose is called queen flowers. Pleet roses are no exception - landing and care for plenty roses should be thought out to the smallest detail, and start growing the plenty roses from the selection of the site. These plants need a bright light in the first half of the day, so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and did not have a chance of fungal diseases to settle on roses, but the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and gentle petals of the plant, so in the afternoon, a plot with plenty roses Must be protected from direct rays. In addition, the place where the vacation roses grow, should be protected from the cold northern and northeast wind, and the location of the plenty rose on the corner part of the building is undesirable due to drafts depressing gentle plant. It is best to place the plenty roses on the southern side of the building, especially since they will not require a lot of space - to land roses, there is enough land strips wide in fifty centimeters, provided that the nearest wall, plant and any other object are not closer to the rose than for half meter.

The soil for plenty roses should be water permeable, but where the groundwater is too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially arranged elevations - the root system of plenty roses sometimes goes deep into two meters. To avoid stagnation of water in the roots, roses are planted on a plot located under a slope, at least minimal. Of all the types of soils in composition, looglinks are most suitable. Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay to the depth of the bayonet shovel, and in the sandy soil - clay, and soils become fertile, they must be made in humus or humus together with bone flour as phosphoric fertilizer . Prepare a plot for roses must be in advance - it is better for six months or at least for a month or two before landing.

As for the landing time, then in temperate climates, it is best to plant roses from the last decade of September to mid-October. You can plant roses and spring - from mid-April to the end of May.

Landing with plenty roses in autumn

Before moving to the description of the landing process, it makes sense to talk about what planting material is preferred. It goes on sale as seedlings of corecobal roses and saplings of roses whipped on a rosehip. What is the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from the corpsobody in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots are different, that is, the trigger of a varietal plenty rose will be vaccinated on the ridge root. Therefore, the landing, and care for the graft rose, although slightly, but differ from landing and care for the rose of the cornesological. For example, the depth of planting grafted roses should be such that the vaccination place is 10 cm below the surface level. The grafted rose planted in this way begins to form the roots from the cultural part of the bush, and the roots of the rosehip, losing its destination, gradually die away. If the place of vaccinations should be left over the surface, the plant will be depleted and will eventually die, because the cultural part of the seedling evergreen, and the rose rose - the plant is a leaf fall, and this inconsistency of the lead and a stock with an improper landing will lead to a sad end.

Saplings of plenty roses with an open root system before landing should be soaked for a day in water. Then you need to remove the leaves from shoots, trim the secode immature and broken shoots, drinking cuts with crowded coal, shorten the roots, and the ground part up to 30 cm, remove the kidney seedlings, located below the vaccination location so that the rose hips does not develop. After that, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing in a three-percent solution copper Kaper.

Planting pits for plenty roses dig up 50x50, observing the distance between them at least meters. The top, fertile soil layer, shot from each pit, is mixed with half a bucket of manure and some of this mixture fall asleep into the pits, then spilled well with water with water. Do it follows day or two to landing. On the day of planting, prepare the mixture for preset rose root treatment. For this, dissolve in half liters of water three pills phosphorodobacterin and one tablet of heteroacexin and pour this solution at nine and a half liters of the clay bolt. Pulk the corticle of the roots of the seedling before omitting them into the pit. Pour a hormick on the bottom of the hole from a mixture of earth with a manure, put a seedling on it, the roots of which are processed by a bolt, carefully cut the roots, pour them out with the same mixture of soil with manure and thoroughly endure the surface. And remember: the place of vaccination by grafted on the rose rose should be at a depth of about ten centimeters under the ground, and the root cervical rose is not less than five centimeters. After planting, the rose is abundantly watered, and when the water is absorbed, the earth is added to the rolling circle and the seedlock is added to a height of at least 20 cm.

Landing of plenty rose in spring

Pleet roses, planted in spring, are lagging behind in development compared to roses planted in the fall, for two weeks and require more attention. The shoots of seedlings before planting are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots are up to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are abundantly watered, highly plunged and covered with a film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to more rapid seedlings. Film must be raised daily for a few minutes to air seedlings. The time of the ventilation is desirable to gradually increase, because at the same time the seedlings are hardened. When the threat of return freezers passes, the film is cleaned, and the plot is mulched. If you put roses after frosts in dry warm weather, after landing, you will climb the rigorous circles with peat or any other suitable material.

Care of plenty roses in the garden

How to care for plenty rose

Caring for plenty roses is regular watering plants, feeding, trimming, fighting possible diseases or pests and in preparation for winter. Due to the characteristics of the structure, the plenty roses need a support. Pretty roses are rather drought-resistant, and in a large amount of water they do not need - they are moisturized once a week or in the decade on the basis of "better less, but more often", that is, 1-2 water buckets spend on each bush. So that the water does not spread, make a low earth shaft around the rolling circle. Two or three days after irrigation to keep moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, the soil is loose around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm. To reduce the labor intensity of roses, inspirate the soil of the coastal circle peat, then water, and loose The soil will have much less frequently.

Young bushes are not fed until August, since the soil contained nutrients Not yet spent, closer to autumn in the ground makes a solution of potash salts to prepare roses to wintering. Best use infusion for these purposes wood ash. When feeding the bushes of the second year of life, organic fertilizers alternate with minerals, and from the third year they transfers exclusively on organic feeders, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water. Manure can be replaced by any other organic fertilizer. For the growing season it is necessary to make at least five feeding. During the flowering of fertilizer do not contribute.

Pleet Rose Support

The variety of supports for plenty roses is amazing: it is possible to use an old dry tree, a grid or an arc made of metal, wood or polymers as a support, and the metal rods curved by the arc. However, no other plant will decorate a faceless wall or an unattractive building, like plenty roses, planted no closer than half the meter from the wall. Place the lattice or vertical guides on the wall, to which you will encourage growing and blooming shoots, and no noticeable structure is transformed. However, it should be aware that the flowers appear on horizontally spaced weaves along their entire length, and on the vertically fixed - only in their upper part.

Plastic twine is used as a fastener material, and no case resort to wire help, inventing all kinds of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire with paper or cloth. Stems firmly attached to the support, trying, however, that the twine will not injure the stem. We regularly examine the supports, because under the weight of the branches or from the wind they sometimes break, and this can lead to strong damage to the plant. You need to boil the supporting design is no longer closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.

Transplanting plenty roses

An adult plant is usually transplanted only for the sake of his salvation if the time has shown that the place for roses was chosen unsuccessfully. Replanted with plenty roses in the fall - in September or in early October, not later that the plant will take care of a new place until winter. Sometimes the transplant is carried out in spring, before the awakening of the kidneys. Before transferring, roses are removed from the supports, keep all young shoots from Rambler, but they pinch their tops at the end of August to accelerate the winners of the shoots, and the shoots over two years old are removed. Klymers and Klyignagov are shortened by half all the long shoots. Then the bushes carefully swing in a circle, retreating from the center to the distance equal to two bays of shovels. You need to dig deep, trying to keep the entire root system as possible. Drops up the plant, shake with its roots of the earth, cut the dangling and shaggy ends of the roots and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared pit, racing the root when landing the roots so that they do not bend. After you fill the hole soil mixture, Find the surface and sprinkle with water. A few days later, when the soil gives the sediment, add an earthen mixture to align the surface of the site, and do not forget to highly glue the plant.

Pests and diseases of the plenty rose

Insects with plenty roses are stuffed and ticklets. If the infection of roses is not a total, try to cope with pests by folk remedies without resorting to chemical preparations. It is possible to remove the TRU mechanically: clamping with hands in gloves bud, sheet or stem and remove tort. This method is good if the word just appeared, but if it was already mastered on your rose and began to fruit, soda on the grater soap, fill it with water, give the solution to imagine and when soap is dissolved, strain the solution and spray roses. If this measure does not give results, buy insecticide from Tly in the store, on which there is a mark "for roses and grapes", and treat them with a rose by choosing a quiet windless evening for this. As for the web ticks, they appear on the plants exclusively in the dry sprome period, if you chronically forget them to water them. Pliers settle on the bottom of the leaves, feed them with juice, entangling the leaves of the web. Leaves of the affected plant acquire a silver shade. In the fight against the pawkin tick, they have proven themselves such folk remediesAs a milestone, wormwood, tobacco or Machorka, after processing which on the third day, die from 80 to 100% insects. The infusion of wormwood is done like this: half a call is placed in a wooden ass. Fresh wormwood is poured, poured ten liters. cold water And they leave for two weeks for fermentation, then fuse breaks, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and treated with a rose and soil around it. If the situation requires urgent measures, the treatment of a plant with phytodeterm, which, if necessary, can be repeated in two weeks. The method of application and dosage is indicated in the instructions for the use of the drug.

There are roses and other pests - a rosal sawdle, cicada, leaflerting, trips, but if you comply with the conditions of agrotechnology plants, they will not be a problem for you. As a preventive measure, you can land around the rose velets - this neighbor will relieve a rose from many troubles. In addition, work out the habit of spending spring and autumn prophylactic spraying of roses borodic liquid.

Of the diseases for roses, the most dangerous coniobiotyrium, bacterial cancer, malievous dew, gray rot and black spot.

Bacterial cancer It manifests itself in various magnitudes by tuberculous soft growths, with time hard and darkening from decomposition. Rose dries and dies. Drugs from bacterial cancer does not exist. Carefully examine the seating material before buying, and before planting, disinfect the roots of seedlings for two or three minutes in a three-percent solution of copper sulfate. If you discovered signs of the disease on an adult bush, immediately remove suspicious parts of the plant and process the wounds with a solution of copper pivot of the same consistency.

Coniocyerium - fungal disease, so-called cancer or bark burn. It is found in the spring when shelting is removed from roses: red-brown spots appear on the cortex, gradually stuffing and turning into rings around the escape. Such shoots need to immediately cut, exciting part of the healthy tissue, and burn in order to avoid infection of other plants. To avoid the disease, you should stop making nitrogen before wintering, replacing it potash fertilizerswhich strengthen the tissues of the plant. In addition, during thaws you need to air roses under the shelter.

Puffy dew It looks like a whitic raid on ground parts of the plant, with time, getting a brown shade. Promotes the appearance of the disease increased humidity Air and sharp fluctuations in temperature, excess nitrogen in the soil and irregular watering. All the affected parts of the plant are cut and burned, after which the rose is treated with a three-percent solution of iron or two-percent solution of copper sulphate.

Black spotty It appears on the leaves of dark red-brown spots in the yellow rim, which with the development of the disease merge, causing premature foaming of the leaves. The autumn feeding of roses with potash-phosphor fertilizers under root can prevent the disease, as well as the three-stage processing of the bush and the earth around it with a three-percent bordrian mixture solution or iron Camp with an interval per week.

Gray Gnil Robs stems, shoots, kidneys and leaves of plenty roses, sharply reduces their decorativeness, reducing the flowering intensity. If the disease entered into force, the plant will have to dig and destroy, but if you discovered it at the very beginning, it is possible to destroy the fungal infection with a coheste with a solution of 100 g of burglar fluid in a bucket of water. If the disease does not work out once again, the processing can be repeated even three times at intervals per week.

Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, the plenty rose does not bloom, and you are in bewilderment studying the diseases of roses and their symptoms, but you can not understand what is the reason. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - weakly blooming, and besides, the location or composition of the soil did not turn out to be rose. Or maybe the fact is that last year's shoots poorly moved the winter. Analyze all the information about the plenty roses, and you will definitely delete the reason.

Pruning plenty roses

When trim plenty roses

Pruning the plenty roses is necessary for the formation of the crown, stimulating abundant flowering over the entire height of the bush and to support the decorativeness of the plant, adorning a particular object. Proper trimming It can provide almost continuous bloom of roses throughout the growing season. Special attention should be paid to vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs on the shoots of last year. Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season from the plenty of roses, any group remove dead shoots and frostpler sections, as well as cut the ends of the shoots to a strong external kidney. Subsequent trimming depend on how many times the vegetation period is blooming your rose - once or more.

How to crop plenty roses

Roses blooming once per season, form flowers on the shoots of last year. Instead of the sworded (basal) shoots, it is formed from three to ten recovery shoots, which will bloom next year, so basal shoots after flowering are to be cut under root, and do it better in autumnWhen preparing a plant for winter. Re-blooming roses for three years on major shoots are formed flowering branches of different orders - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots by the fifth year weakens, so the main shoots in early spring It should be cut to the foundation after the fourth year of life. On the bushes with repeated blooming should be from one to three annual recovery shoots and from three to seven major blooming shoots. However, most of the plenty roses blooms on overwhelming shoots, from which only the tops with underdeveloped kidneys are removed in the spring.

Special attention should be paid to young vaccinated roses, planted in the current or last year: while the cultural lead will not be created by its own root system, the riding-riding roots will give an abundant piglery that you need to remove immediately. In a year or two, when the root of the rose hips, the pigs will give the roots of the lead.

Reproduction of plenty roses

How to multiply the plenty roses

Pleet roses breed seeds, as well as grains, cuttings and vaccinations. It is easiest that it turns out to multiply rosa, and the reproduction of cuttings gives good results. As for seed reproduction, the sowing material for this purpose is better to buy in the store, since the seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not preserve the varietal signs of the parent plant, so it is not known that the rose will grow out of them. However, for the sake of the experiment, it is worth trying: in the end, what are you risking?

Growing plenty roses from seeds

Buy in the store or assemble the seeds of roses growing in your garden, put them in a sieve and lower half an hour into a flap with hydrogen peroxide - this measure contributes to the disinfection of seeds and prevents the appearance of mold during the subsequent stratification of the sowing material. Then spread the seeds on cottage disks moistened with hydrogen peroxide and cover on top of the same impregnated disks, spread these "sandwiches" into individual polyethylene bags, write on them the date and name of the variety, fold into the container and put in a vegetable department of the refrigerator. From time to time, check the state of the seeds, and if you notice the mold, wash them again in the peroxide, change the discs to the new, impregnated with the same composition, and again put in the refrigerator. After a half or two months, the sprouted seeds move to individual peat tablets or a pot, clinging the surface with a thin layer of perlite in order to avoid infection with a black leg. Seedlings will need a decadatholic day and watering as the soil drying. With the normal development of germs, the first buds will appear two months after planting seeds into the pot, and the first flowers will be revealed in a month and a half. Continue care for seedlings, adopt their weak solution of complex fertilizer, and spring will fall out in open sad And take care of as an adult plant.

Reproduction of plenty rose with cuttings

It is easiest to implement, because in most cases this method gives one hundred percent result. Cut the cuttings from flowing or blooming shoots from mid-June to the beginning of August. The segment must have at least two intersals. The lower cutting cutter is made under the kidney at an angle of 45º, the upper slice is direct, as far as possible from the kidney. Bottom leaves are removed from the cutter, the upper shock is half. The cuttings stick to a depth of 1 cm in a pot with sand or a mixture of sand with a soil are covered with a glass jar or a plastic bottle and put in a bright place by defending direct sunlight. Water soil in a pot, without removing banks. Processing the lower cutting cutter in the root-forming agent before planting is necessary only if you are dealing with a variety that is poorly rooted, but in most cases the rooting of cuttings is easy.

Reproduction of plenty roses

The escape of the spring is cut off under the kidneys, put into the dumped groove at 10-15 cm wide and about the same depth, at the bottom of which the layer of humus, powered by a layer of earth, fix the grooves in several places and fall asleep so much so that the tip of the tank remains Above the surface of the site. During the watering of the bush, do not forget to water and shopped. In a year, next spring Separate the maternity plant and transfer it to a new place.

Vaccination of plenty roses

Vaccination of the church of cultural rose to the root of the rosehip is called an eyepiece. This procedure is held since the end of July until the end of August. Rosehip before vaccination is abundantly watered, then the T-shaped incision is made on the root neck, you will fit the bark and pull it slightly from the wood. From a cutting of cultural roses, the eyes are cut together with the adjacent bark and the layer of wood, the eyes are tightly inserted into the T-shaped section and turn the place of vaccinations with the eyepuliping film. After that, the rosehips plunge the grafting places at least 5 cm, in two weeks the bandage can be loosen, and in the spring next year Film removed at all.

Pleet roses after flowering

Pleet roses beatflowers - what to do?

At the beginning of the fall, the bushes of plenty roses begin to prepare gradually for winter. Since the end of August, they stop watering, loosening the soil around them, nitrogen in feeding is replaced by potassium. The tops of unseen shoots are cut off. All the plenty roses are winter under the shelter, but for this they must first take off the support and put on the ground. A young bush can be laid easily, but old, a powerful plenty rose to jump to the ground a matter of not one day's business, you may need a whole week for this, and the process should pass at the plus temperature, because even with a light frost, the stalks become fragile and broken. Consider this.

How to strengthen the plenty roses for the winter

She is covered with a rose when the temperature drops to -5 ºC, it should not be done before, because the rose does not have time to get a hardening, besides, it can recycle or go into growth, being too long under the shelter without air. Stripping plenty roses are needed in dry weatherless weather. Remove the roses from the support, clean the branches from foliage, cut damaged shoots, bind the screamers with a rope and gently put them on the litter from the huskoth or dry leaves (in no case do not put roses on bare ground!). Press or pin the roses to the ground, cover their sweetheart, dry leaves or dry grass, pour the base of the bush with sand or earth, then cover the lying roses polyethylene film, Loutrasil, rubberoid or any other waterproof material in such a way that there is an air layer between the rose and the film.

Pleet roses in winter

During the winter thaws in clear dry weather, open the film for a while, giving roses to breathe in winter air - it will benefit them. However, do not remove the husknik or leaves! As soon as signs of spring appear, remove the film - being all the winter under the shelter without fresh air roses can get sick. Do not be afraid that they can freeze - you didn't forget to hide them with a sweetheart.

Varieties of plenty roses

We offer you acquaintance with some popular varieties of plenty roses, which we divided into groups for convenience. So:

Sort of small-bedroom plenty roses (rampers)

• Bobby James. - recognized high-resistant grade up to 8 m in height with a width of the crown to 3 m, with bright green leaves, which, during flowering, it is almost not visible because of the abundance of white-cream flowers with a musky aroma with a diameter of 4-5 cm. Needs In a large space and strong supports. The variety is frosty. If you were asked if this plenty rose is suitable for the Moscow region, any professional would answer you in the affirmative;
• Ramblin REKTOR - a variety with pale green beautiful leaves, whose screens reach a length of five meters, minor semi-world flowers in an amount up to forty pieces are collected into large-shaped sophisticated scenery of a creamy shade, which on the bright sun burns to white color. This rose can be grown as a bush;
• Super Excelselza - Height and up to two meters wide, terry bright raspberry flowers are collected in the brush. Flowering permanent - until the end of summer, but the raspberry color burns into the sun. Grade winter films and resistant to mildew.

Varieties of plenty roses of large-flowered (clivimers and claying)

• Elf - A variety is relatively new, a bush is a reprehensive, a stronger, reaching a height of two and a half meters, and in the width of one and a half meters. White with a novel dense flowers with a diameter of up to 14 cm produce fruit flavor. Flowers until the end of summer. Sustainable diseases;
• Santana - bush up to 4 m height with carved dark green foliage and velvety bright red semi-world flowers with a diameter of 8-10 cm. Flowering is repeated. Excellent winter hardiness and disease resistance;
• Polka - The bush of this variety reaches the height of two or more meters, the leaves are shiny, dark green, the flowers of terry apricot color, with a diameter of up to 12 cm. Flowers two or three times over the summer. Resistant to mildew. Requires good shelter for the winter;
• Indigoletta - a heavy bush up to three meters high, up to one and a half meters in gripping, with dark green dense leaves. An unusually beautiful shade of lilac terry flowers with a diameter of up to 10 cm collected in inflorescences. This variety is characterized by intensive growth, pleasant aroma, repeated flowering during the growing season and relative resistance to diseases.

We offer you an acquaintance with another group of plenty roses - these are the so-called Cordes hybrids, which for incomprehensible reasons are not allocated to a separate group, and included in the Rambler group:

• Lagoon - Aromatic tall rose, reaching a height of three meters and one meter in girth. Terry dark pink up to 10 cm in diameter Flowers are collected in the brush. It blooms twice during the summer. Resistant to the "black leg" and mildew;
• Golden Gate - Powerful bush with a large number of shoots, reaching a height of three and a half meters. Golden yellow semi-grade flowers with a diameter of up to 10 cm, exacerating a strong fruit aroma, are collected in the brush. Blooms twice the season;
• Sympathy - a high-speed branched bush tall up to three meters and up to two width. Luxurious shade bright red flowers are collected in small inflorescences. Flowers during the season repeatedly, but the first bloom is the most abundant. Frost-resistant, intensely growing, disease-resistant variety, not afraid of rain, no wind.

Beautiful, well-groomed ... in a word, not a garden, but a photo from the magazine. Dream about this? Highlight the corner for the rosary on the site. Create it according to your own scheme, not attracting designer to design. How to make a rosary in the country with your own hands - read the article.

Types and styles Rosariev

To create long-term flower garden From roses, which will be invented not one year, decide on. Think what you would like to see in this corner, how do you want to charge from it. Before making a rosary with your own hands, look at the photos of different flower beds and choose the one that suits you. Types of registration There are several:

• Romantic. This flower garden looks good near the gazebo. Consists of roses of gentle shades. In combination with tall plants Creates an atmosphere of comfort, pacification;

Romantic Rosary

• Parade. As can be understood from the name, these are festive compositions with bright colors, often - contrasting. Very elegant and winning here is greens;

Parade Rosary

• Foreseeable on the one hand. Suitable small sites. As an option, place it near any wall or at the fence. For example, in the background, place high park roses. Closer to the edges - medium-sized plenty, in the foreground - soil;

Rosary, foreseeable on one side

• Foreseeable from different sides. Flowers for this rosary should be planted from the center to the edges. Inside there will be the highest plants, they need to surround them by medium-sized roses. Complete the composition should be lowered;

Rosary foreseeable from different sides

• Vertical. Plenty perennial grades roses will greatly decorate the arch or gazebo, with time completely covering them;

Vertical Rosary

Council. Remember that roses can not grow independently in the right direction. Do it manually, using supports and garters. Formulate weaving according to your idea.

• Rosary-Alpinarium. For it use soil grades. They bloom abundantly and unpretentious in care. Roses of this type grow well, so of them quickly turns out the fragrant motley carpet. Beautiful ensemble is obtained from a combination of roses with stones on an alpine hill;

Rosary-Alpinarium

• Mobile. The name speaks for itself: this is a mobile rosary, which can be arranged in containers, vases. It looks harmonious along the tracks, at the entrance, best in a sunny place. For such a flower garden, take low, remedy varieties of roses. After landing, do drainage, do not forget about watering and fertilizer. For the winter, remove the containers into the heated room.

Mobile Rosary

Also, decide on the style of your future rosary. IN modern design Most common:

Landscape rosary

How to make a rosary scheme

Deciding with the place, view and style of the rosary, make it a plan scheme. It will help you clearly present the final color garden. To begin with, mark on the circuit of the future of the future kingdom of roses. For them, borders can be used or low colors.

To various plants did not interfere with each other, decide with sizes and varieties. Check out the photo of blooming roses, select the favoris. Record their names and sign on the diagram. Mark where you are going to take the place of the lowest, and where - tall.

Rosary Plan

What corners will be occupied by perennial flowers, and where new bushes need to be installed every year - another aspect of the plan. Mark the Scheme of the Plots where you want to plant certain groups of roses. Think, the harmonious will be their color combination.

Council. So that in one rosary "got along" the non-harmonic colors of the plant group, dilute them with white inflorescences. Do not combine warm shades (cream, orange) with cold (burgundy, cherry).

Before making a rosary with your own hands, decide: where and what crops will be planted as background. Consider whether the ensemble you created fit into perennial shrubs Or compositions of stones. Look different photos With schemes and make up your plan on paper.

How to make a rosary with your own hands. Instruction

1. Prepare a plot. It should be sunny, but not blown free from garbage, weeds. "Queen of Flowers" love well-drained soil, in no case is not clay. Perfect option - Take care of the soil in advance, in about the middle of the summer, so that falling roses in the fall. To do this, reharge the ground (approximate depth - 60 cm), jerk up the top layer and make fertilizer. For 2-3 months, get good soil suitable roses.

   

   Garden tools for arranging rosary do it yourself

2. Make holes. Their depth is about 10 cm larger than the roots (50-60 cm), the width is from 25 cm to 1.5 m (depending on the variety). If the groundwater is in your area - more than 1 m, you can do without drainage. Otherwise, on the bottom of each well, put small stones, gravel or clamzit, pour a little earth from above.

   

   Preparation of wells for roses

3. Prepare seedlings. Cut the roots to a length of 30 cm, damaged - delete. That part that will remain over the ground, shorten up to 2-3 strong shoots. Leaves should not be on the cutlets.

   

   Seedling prepared for landing in open ground

4. Remove the bush from the container or pot and plant, pre-moisturizing it. It is necessary that the earthen com did not crumble. Depending on the cultivation conditions, seedlings distinguish:
   • with a closed root system (initially each sprout was planted in a separate container in which he grown);
   • with an open root system (such copies grew in the field and were placed in the tank immediately before the sale).

   

   Scheme: The process of planting pink bushes

5. Based on this, there are differences and when landing. The bushes with a closed root system simply are simply lowered in the hole and evenly fall asleep the earth (for this they need to be periodically shaken). For second type seedlings, you must first make a small hollyk in the died pit. They put a bush and fall asleep the earth. In both cases, make sure the roots will be raised up.
6. After landing, compact the soil, and the upper layer - bent. Pour seedlings.

   

   Bush after landing in the ground

Rosary Care Rules

Regardless of which rosary, you preferred (romantic or alpinarium) within 2 weeks after landing do not forget about regular watering of bushes. For the winter it is necessary to emphasize the holes of the Earth (by 20-30 cm) or fall asleep by sawdust, sand. So that the soil does not drive, mulch it.

Watering bushes rose

Make the organic or mineral feeding. Sugar roses and cut them in summer, spring and at the end of flowering. If you instrange the plants, remove the wild booster. Shape bushes in a timely manner. For tall grades, put backups.

Combinations of roses with other plants

If you decide not to make a rosary exclusively to their alone roses, think about the colors that will grow next to them. After all, from how successful the combination will be, will depend on general form Your flower garden. Carefully pick up a border for bushes. He will hide their lower, ill-dimensional part. For example, a green or silver framing from the Samshat is suitable for rosary in the romantic style.

Pink bushes next to other cultures

Bright rosary add greens, gold or purple fencing. For this purpose, Barbaris, Astra, Santolina. Good neighbors for the "queen of flowers":

• perennial plants - irises, cloves, Barwin, Primula;
• accommodation - Pansies, Salvia, Begonia, Dolphin.

Council. To protect against pests and diseases, it is worth landing next to the roses of the veleant, lavender or sage.

Beautifully look at roses with plants that are not afraid of shadows: host or Geichera. The company will make up Clematis. For mountaineering, any soil plants. In combination with stones on a hill in the rose garden, fern or coniferous looks winning.

Landscape composition with rose

Of course, the design of the rosary requires great work and considerable time. But the result is worth it. Every year will be reminiscent of the colorful flowering and the flavor of the flower bed, lovingly created by your hands.

How to create a rosary: \u200b\u200bvideo

Rosary at the country area: photo