Very often, people have to make an extension to the house. The reason may be the need to increase the space, but the simple redevelopment of this problem does not solve, and you have to expand. Or the house was originally uncomfortable - for example, adopted earlier with the architects "box", which is already quite irrelevant today, because in fashion now there are complex projects. Perhaps early construction did not take into account the "Rose of Winds", so it took to make an additional protective structure in the form of a garage, veranda or workshop.

In general, the reasons for which people are decided to intervene in the integrity of the house, a lot. At the same time, it is very often to redo the housing from the tree - especially if this is the old residential foundation. Consider how an extension is done to wooden house And how much really to build it with your own hands.

Not an addition, but a full part!

It is important to understand that an extension is not at all inconsistencies to the main building, as it may seem from the name. She is the same important element Total facilities. Constructively associated with it and subsequently affecting the vitality of the house. If it is not considered, in the future there may be problems with the stability of the whole house. Not to mention that appearance Houses can be spoiled. Therefore, do not seek to save on good foundationA well-thought-out project - these flaws will get out after an increase in the cost of maintaining the house, height heat loss and many other surprises. And, of course, you need to agree on the construction projects and get all the necessary permitting documentation.

Foundation - the basis in all senses

Whatever construction of an extension you start, without foundation you can not do. Since the attraction is a constructive-independent structure, its construction is also desirable to conduct in two receptions to make a foundation, and in a year when it resists, will give a shrinkage, continue the construction of everything else. This will help avoid deformation changes in the design and, therefore, to prevent the occurrence of cracks and other defects.

The foundation is always suitable with regard to the terrain, soil, weight of the house and an extension. It can be sifted to home, and may not be associated with it at all (this also happens when they decide to build a fourth wall in an extension).

Concerning wooden houseThe foundation of an extension requires special attention. Depending on the choice of material for an extension and from the method of its downturn to the house, the foundation base can be both attached to the house of the reinforcement, and it is separated from it by deformation seams - so that different parts of the house are sitting autonomously and did not lead the corners at home.

Frame-based extension

Frame extension organically fits into the house design

Construction of an extension to a wooden house can be started from any wall material. However, one is preferable to the ratio of price and quality will be an extension frame technology. It will not require a complex foundation and heavy walls. At the same time, the shrinkage of such a structure is minimal, you can quickly make the finish and finish the construction. At the same time, this work is quite able to make it yourself. By the way, the framework method of construction involves thinner walls of an extension without reducing thermal conductivity, so the building is less, and the living area itself is greater.

The foundation with such a material is sufficient without a blowjob, it is easy to make it yourself, for example, a ribbon or tiled. The waterproofing material is placed on top of it - runneroid.

An important point is the compliance with the general style of the main building. After all, if an old house Built from a timber or logs, it will be made and sorted by an extension of a fully identical material will be difficult both from a technical point of view and from the standpoint of material. But to sheathe the frame extension of the material that mimics the walls of the house is possible. It will be possible to repeat and pass, and ends, and other design elements.

To attach an extension to a wooden house, rack-bars are attached along the walls of the house, it will be subsequently nailed to the elements of the walls of the walls. The frame itself can be made with their own hands according to the following scheme.

Stages of work:

1. To lay the perimeter of the strapping of the bar at least 15 cm. The same timber or board set the angular racks using the level.
2. Make upper strapping from edged board. Fix the boards to the upper strapping by self-draws.
3. Wall insulation produce polystyrene foam, foam or mineral wool.
4. To put hydro and vapor barrier, consolidating them also with self-draws.
5. Safety insulation plates of OSB, plywood, plasterboard, etc.

An extension on framework-brusade technology

An extension to the house from the bar can be used as part of the house.

In general, these are all options for the framework. In this case, the frame is also a carrier part, and the facing are made by glued or profiled small secting. The timber acts simultaneously as an external facing material.

At the same time, if everything is done correctly, an extension to a wooden house with your own hands will be released no worse than in the picture about wooden architecture.

The new part of the first six months can give a shrinkage, and so that it does not happen skew, it is fixed to the old structure or metal brackets, or special corners of the metal. Both are not attached to allow an extension to "play" a little during the shrinkage of a bar.

The connection of two foundations is better occurring when both bases are made by one method - if the ribbon, then fasten the reinforcement. If you connect everything correctly, the extension will be securely attached to the main building, despite the ports of the soil.

An extension of foam concrete

PenoBlocks during construction allow the developer to use additional architectural features

This material has advantages - it is light, warm, build them easy. But at the same time, foam concrete is fragile and exposed to deformation. Facing work cannot be postponed for the future season so as not to burst into the seams, while the quality of the blocks often causes complaints.

Another point is the heterogeneity of the extension materials and houses can lead to displacement from weather and other factors. Therefore, if you intend to attach from foam concrete, then the best option will not be connected to them, but lay a layer of mineral wool between them, which is further sewed to any suitable material.

In the same way, it should be done with an extension of bricks. By the way, the brick, like foam blocks during construction allow the developer to take advantage of additional architectural features.

Using metal frames for extension

Metal frames apply to building low-rise private housing

Modern manufacturers have recently emerged a new offer - durable and durable metal frames. They are applicable to the construction of low-rise private housing or need an extension.

However, compared with the skeletal way this method is more expensive and more severe. Therefore, private developers are still resorting to wooden reliable frameworks.

Made with your own hands, whether brick house Or stone, it's very difficult and time consuming. This work will increase the living area, will increase the convenience of living, make a cozy dwelling, and, of course, will increase the market value of the construction.

It seems to be built and not new houseAnd just do better old. But, if in addition to its skills to follow some tips, then any extension will add more comfort and comfort. It is at these councils that our article will be founded that would not allow any errors and inaccuracies in improving the home.

Foundation deformation with an extension

How to attach a terrace? As a result, a well-built house and an extension to him do not behave for each other? And everything is very simple, because it is absolutely different buildings! To deal with, what is the case here, it is necessary to consider the situation from the very foundation of the house. 90% of all troubles are glowing here.

First of all, it is necessary to start making the fondaam sinuses inverse. It is made in the soil of certain quality, most often it is a low moisture loam. Usually such a primer must be purchased in a specialized construction company. The backfill must be carried out in layers, the maximum layer thickness must be no more than 50 cm, with a tamper. But still very often causes the problem that well-loose and the rammed soil, usually, has a smaller density, rather than a natural base, and, that is why the seal is often neglected, or they do not qualitatively.

The foundation of an extension has a base of bulk, with less strength, rather than the foundation of the house itself and, it follows that the risk of drawdown is very high.

A second essential factor is that under any load on the weight of the structure, absolutely any soil gives a draw (you can count the rock). Only the level of this drawdown differs. In other words, any construction will be slowly sitting until the carrying capacity of the sealing soil does not compare the weight of the construction of the constructed structure. This process has a greater intensity directly from the construction of a frame of the house, slowed down, and almost ceases, not earlier than 1 to 2 years.

Shrinkage of an extension in relation to the main building

How to build an extension to the house? Consider such a situation where the main building (house) was already "sat down", and the attraction starts to see and move relative to it.

In the event that part of the foundation of the extension is standing on a bulk soil, and the part is on the ground with natural density, it is possible to obtain a very complex deformation. With this variant, cracks may occur even in the most unpredictable and unexpected places. In this situation, to present a picture of the awards, as well as possible consequences Not even an experienced specialist.

These consequences can be reduced if you increase the construction time for several years. It looks like this. ... the foundation we give to stand 1 - 2 years, after that we produce the construction of an extension on the already pressing the foundation. Naturally, additional load in any case will cause some shrinkage, but it will be much smaller.

The next, no less common cause of deformations is considered various temperature modes When operating at home.

Depth of the drainage of soil soils

Those people who have ever been associated with construction work, heard of the depth of the drainage of the soil-soils, and that the foundations need to be arranged slightly lower than this level. For what it should be done, not everyone knows, but It is caused by the fact that when the moisture is frozen, which is contained in the soils, they are exhausted, or expand. This is a swelling, if it occurs under the foundation, causes large and uneven additional loads. The consequence of this is the varying degrees of the complexity of the problem, from the appearance of the so-called "hair" (thin) cracks, to very large deformations that can bring the construction before collapse.

Is it possible to prevent such problems, or at least minimize their impact? Sure you may.

Good foundation for an extension made by hand

It is necessary to start with the fact that for serious, heavy buildings, you need to make a reliable foundation, which will rely on the soil with a suitable density for it, which will reduce the drawdown as much as possible. To reduce the cost, foundations can be made fragmented, for example, columnar, with the help of stamps. When an extension made on a high-quality foundation will give a sediment, we make the decoration of the place where it comes into contact with the main building. In the future, large cracks in this place will not be formed, except for unobtrety, so-called hair.

Lightweight extension

To minimize the consequences of the foundations' drawing, you can use a lightweight extension device. These include a frame extension, which is made with the use of bent metal profiles, acquire which today is not a big problem, and walls of foam concrete blocks or foam.

The most effective way to ensure the acceptable work of the main building and an extension is to make a sedimentary, or rather, the deformation seam. This solution Provides optimal combination of reliability and operational quality buildings.

Internal and external finish of an extension with their own hands

As for the exterior decoration, good option It can be the use of materials such as siding, that is, materials that withstand a significant degree of deformation without visible manifestations. About such an opportunity to think about and when the interior decoration is made. For her, you can use materials that can be purchased in an absolutely any construction store - this is "liquid" wallpapers, plastic "lining", MDF.

Tips when erecting an extension with your own hands (video)

Make a generalization above said. The first is if the extension is seen precisely as an extension, and not as an increase in the dwelling, it must be erected as a completely separate structure, with a calculated foundation and other accessories.

The second is when the construction of an extension is considered as an expansion of the living space, it is necessary to consider the option of its device using already existing supporting structures. It was mentioned above as a frame extension, the variant of which is an easy attached element, the existing walls act as the bearing base.

In this case, the production of the deformation seam is not necessary, although this design is not predetermined in terms of long use, as well as less protected from any damage.

Of course, other solutions are possible, but not the fact that they will be cheaper and more reliable than those described above. Everything that has been told in this article must be taken into account, at the time when you yourself develop projects for attachments to the house. Since to take into account and neutralize the main factors that worsening work, and also complicate the construction of an extension described in our article, everything else, including the choice of an engineering solution, will no longer have any meaning.

Read more about how to make an attraction to the house, look in our video

Time passes, and it turns out that a private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. The decision is made to expand its area an extension. How to fulfill it qualitatively and without excess costs, we will tell in the article.

Save without harm quality - requirements for premises and materials

Poorly thought-out design of an extension eventually make something to redo or finish, add to cottage house. In order not to get into this situation, we think over all the nuances weigh the dignity and disadvantages of your ideas. We start with selection of space and sizes.

Each type of extra room has its own specific features due to the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing, and others. If it is decided to build an additional residential room at the cottage, then it is equivalent to the construction of a small house. It is necessary to fully insulate, prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in the cold time, you need to think about heating.

Another common type of attachment is kitchens and bathrooms. Requirements for them practically do not differ. First of all, we think about engineering communications and sum up before the construction of construction. Sewer pipes, water pipes are much more convenient to lay on the fill of the foundation, which then break into it. Increased attention requires waterproofing outdoor coating. We think about warming, but if the kitchen is scheduled for summer, then you can save.

Expand the house and an extension of the veranda. The structure is lightweight, serves for summer holiday, protects the entrance from the wind, snow and rain. It is performed in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a board, low walls with a roof on the pillars, to a complex with walls, door, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will not be a veranda, but the waterproofing of the foundation is necessary.

An extension to the house should be harmonized with the main structure. If the house has an external finish, it will be easy to repeat on the attached room. With all materials, a tree is well combined, which looks great even without additional finishes. The optimal option will be a framework:

• it is raised quickly, literally for several months;
• does not require capital foundation because light;
• without special knowledge and skills are available for erection;
• it will cost cheaper.

The base under the extension is made at one level with the foundation of the house. Attaching the construction to the house, do not do it tightly - over time it will give a shrinkage - and we leave compensatory seam. In this regard, framework structures that do not give a vertical shrinkage are distinguished.

If the construction is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is performed by a single one. Blind choose with such a calculation so that the snow and rain decreased. If it is an extension to the side wall, the roof repeats the main configuration. The material of the roof is the same as on the roof of the house, if the other is important to be combined.

Bound base - fast, cheap, reliably

For a column foundation of an extension to the house, concrete, brick or their combination are used. Made mainly for the residential room or veranda. If applied to the kitchen or bathroom, it will take thermal insulation input engineering communications to the house. Because the protection concerns on an average half-meter of pipes, you can go to such expenses, it will still be cheaper belt Fundament. The floor is made from the board, for the concrete, you will need a lot of material for filling, the perimeter fence.

We start with the markup of the site, the installation sites are located in one and a half meters one from the other. Under each pillar, a separate pit 50 × 50 cm, a depth of more soil freezing. Up the way, it is slightly expanding: on each side about 10 cm. Floor with a layer of sand at 10 cm, thoroughly trambam, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also trambed.

We lay out the film for waterproofing, the ends are removed on the surface. If we plan to build a brick pillars, pour a few concrete solution into each pit for the basis for the basis and wait for it. When the pillars are planned from concrete, we associate the reinforcement at the top of the altitude, omit in the pit. We provide an equal distance between the walls. Under the bottom we put the pieces of bricks to raise the reinforcement for about 4 cm.

We make a formwork for the base, inside which we run the film. Concrete flooded layers, each layer several times with a rod, so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it grabs, then continue the fill. The top of the pillar is thoroughly align and wait for about two weeks until the concrete freezes. All this time, we strongly water with water, cover the burlap or film.

When the foundation acquires the desired strength, the formwork is removed. Heat the bitumen mastic, we put on the poles and immediately glue pieces of rubberoid for waterproofing. There is a space between the colums, which is desirable to fall asleep to insulate the floor. We use the usual land mixed with chubble or brick pieces. I fall asleep layers of 10 cm, trambam. The technology of the construction of a belt foundation is practically no different, but in contrast to the columnar it is solid.

Getting Started - Lower Venting and Hall of Extensions

So, they stopped on the skeleton version of both the quick and cheap. So that the tree serve for a long time, you need to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and spend antiseptic processing. Of course, wood should be well dried. For waterproofing the most reliable means - Bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of rubberoid, but it is short-lived.

Then make the bottom strapping. A 150 × 150 mm timber is usually used, but it is possible to use a 150 × 50 mm boards. They are placed horizontally around the perimeter, even with the outer edges of the foundation. The boards of the first row are not connected to each other. The second row is placed on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In the placed in this way on the foundation of boards do through holes Under the hairpins and connect them. If he is ribbon, drilling and connect on Earth, and then fit. To get the effect of a single bar, bring up with nails in a checker order after 20 cm. It turns out the impunity of the desired thickness, which also has additional benefits:

• costs significantly cheaper bars;
• it is very simple to combine each other, it's more complicated with bars.

To chinak, fasten the lower strapping from the same boards of 150 × 50 mm, installed on top on the edge along the outer edge. Between themselves and with litters fasten them with nails 90 mm. Further set lags from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60-80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the lags, they are installed. They are attached to the strapping board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now we proceed to the insulation of the floor. The cheapest, although not a very eco-friendly version - the tile polystyrene foam density is not less than 15 kg / m 3. The advantage of him is that he is the only heaters are not afraid of moisture. You nail to the lower edges of Lag Bars 50 × 50 mm, which will hold the polystyrene foam. Thickness is required 15 cm: We use sheets 10 and 5 cm. We are placed so that the seams of the lower and top row overlap.

The base is ready. Top plays a draft floor. In order to overcome it with time, we put, alternating the direction of annual rings. We look into the cut: one board put the arc upwards, the other is a book. Clean floors make from plywood, joints of the rotary. The rough base is not necessarily in the presence of edged tunted boards with a thickness of 30 mm or plywood 15 mm. Place directly on lags.

Mounting walls - two assembly technologies

There are two buildings of framework buildings. The first is called a frame-shield when the entire assembly is made on Earth, then the finished structures are installed in place and fasten each other. Sometimes the framework of the frame is immediately carried out, which makes it even stronger. Another way implies a gradual installation right on the spot. What more convenient - everyone decides himself. The shield assembled on Earth is not lifted, helpers will need.

The construction of the carcass is starting with corner racks. For them and intermediate racks, we use a ram 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we will learn before. We have pillars so that the lumen between them was 3 cm already the width of the insulation. So we will save on the wasteless use of the material and improve the quality of insulation, without leaving the slots.

The mount can simply and reliably carry out metal corners installed on two sides of the racks and fixed stainless screws. Before finally fasten the rack, carefully check its verticality, especially important for the corners. One incorrectly displayed beam will lead to the fact that the entire extension will be asleep.

Maintain the correct shape of the frame helps temporary covers that are installed from the inside and serve before attaching the outer sheaving. If the sheathing of rigid and durable material is like plywood, OSP, GVK, it can independently strengthen the basis that will be reliably standing after removing temporary voids. When a soft material is planned for the trim: siding, lining, then do not do without constant diagonals. It is better to install them two below and on top of each rack.

In places of installation of windows and doors, fastened cross. Racks next to them do double: they are experiencing increased loads and should be stronger. Final frame fastening we carry out the installation of the upper strapping. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom: a bonding of two boards bonded between themselves and actually a strapping from the same boards installed on the edge. To her in the same way as sex lags was attached, nail overlapping beams from the boards 150 × 50 on the edge.

We constantly check the geometry of the whole structure, as well as the correct installation of the racks and the crossbar: the rack is strictly vertically, the crossbar is horizontally.

Single Roof - Design and Execution Technology

The roof of the house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is constructed from the side, the roof will continue the main, it remains only to repeat its design to lengthen. When the attached building is located in length, its roof is performed with a single one. The slope is provided by the difference in the height of the front and rear racks. The height of the rear should ensure the occasion of the roof of the extension under the goat main.

The support of the roof serves rafters that are placed on the beams. They are performed from thick boards to ensure fixation, make special grooves. Cut them on the ground on the template so that everyone is the same. Then, after installation, you will not need to align horizontally. The grooves are processing mastic, install and fastened to the walls of brackets, metal corners on the hairpins. If the length exceeds 4 m, install additional vertical supports.

On top of the rafter put the crate. Depending on the roofing material We make it solid or with a step of 0.3-0.6 m. The need for a solid wooden flooring occurs in the case of the use of soft material, weakened by doing under all other types of roofing. Mounting produce depending on the type of roof. Proflists and metal tile Freeding specialsamores that have sealing washers, ondulin - nails with a wide hat. We provide the lap wave. Do not forget about the final design: the wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a complete view.

Warming - Mandatory Operation for Extension

For insulation, buildings are used mainly mineral wool and foam. Minvats are opposed to fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a small weight, convenient for consumers the form of release: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is a foam. His advantages: It is inexpensive, the fungus, moisture, rotting is not afraid. But there are two large drawbacks: it is very loved by rodents, toxic gases allocate during the fire.

Warming from the inside carry out in such a sequence:

1. 1. Mount the waterproofing, having pre-cutting the bands of the required dimensions. Fresh braces, applying a construction stapler, so to ensure the nourishment. We are wearing the frame completely, driven by a staple after 10 cm.
2. 2. Place the insulation between the racks. We provide dense adjacent to wooden designs, seams between individual elements The insulation material is closed, overlapping the next layer of the mustache.
3. 3. Breep warehouse, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also a tree. Fastening We produce similarly waterproofing.
4. 4. We are wearing walls from the inside. We use plasterboard for perfectly level frame or OSB if there are irregularities. It is tougher and smoothes flashes.

There was an internal I. exterior finishwhere space is provided for the owner's fantasy. A frame extension is raised quickly, cheaply, serves as one decade, and it can be built practically without third-party help.

An extension to the house of a wooden frame - perfect option For prompt expansion square meters Residential area.

Despite the fact that at the moment there are several ways to increase it, the most efficient and budget of them is the construction of a wooden frame extension.

The construction of an extension from the frame will make it possible to supplement the building with a subsidiary business, expand, if necessary, the kitchen is either another room at home.

Thus, you can get in a private house an ideal bathroom or a long-awaited veranda.

For this purpose, you will get acquainted with the embodiment of the frame extension to the house, which will allow you to independently build a frame and turn it into a residential zone.

But first consider the purpose of the premises and the standard requirements for them, since additional earthworks may be needed before erection using frame technology.

An extension of the residential room to the house is similar to the erection of an ordinary residential building, but less square.

This fact is explained by the need for insulation and waterproofing of all surfaces of the skeleton design, including the ceiling, floors and walls.

And of course, it is impossible to forget about the foundation, which due to the correct construction, as well as the waterproofing devices, is able to exclude in the attached frame the appearance of dampness and reproduction of fungi.

Veranda in an extension

For the extension of the summer veranda, you do not always need windows and door. The frame of its structure can have completely open view, but ineffective protection from the sun, rain and wind.

As you can see in the photo, the veranda is a wooden frame with a flooring, on its perimeter there are half-stands and columns on which the roof is held.

But if the requirements for the summer option above, the framework of the veranda is equipped with thick walls, window and doorway.

In both cases, to avoid dampness, foundation frame structure Subject to waterproofing.

Winter version of the frame veranda, connected to the house, provides complete insulation and waterproofing of a new room.

Bathroom or kitchen zone in the extension

The expansion plan of these two premises at the expense of the attachment deserves special attention, since each of them involves the use of a sewage, plumbing and heating system.

Here, as a rule, it is thought out to the smallests insulation and waterproofing frameless walls With your own hands, as well as the choice of technology on which the foundation will be arranged.

Having considered the main points and reviewing thematic videos how to mount the framework, you can go to step-by-step instructions for the construction of the foundation, its waterproofing and construction of the frame extension to the house.

Device of tape fundament

To equip the foundation for a frame structure, a number of the following works are carried out in a certain place:

• We have the corners of the future structures by the spicy, they are tied to the rope and dig a trench along it. The depth of the trench should correspond to the depth on which the foundation of the house was arranged. Its width should exceed the thickness of the future wall, about 150 mm;
• The bottom of the finished trench is sweeping asleep with sand and small rubble, a layer of 10-15 cm. After that, everything is thoroughly tamped;
• On top of the sand pillow, the waterproofing is laid in such a way that the edges of the membrane are wrapped on the surface of the soil and it subsequently could serve as protection not only for the inner part of the foundation, but also for the future wooden formwork;
• On the entire height of the foundation fill on waterproofing, the frame of the reinforcing welded structure is placed in order to harden the concrete monolithic layer;
• The third part of the finished frame of the reinforcement is poured with a solution, the composition of which is made of gravel and cement. After drying the first layer, ½ of the grooves of the trench is added by another concrete layer;
• Then go to the construction of the formwork framework. With its help, the foundation is equipped with an overhead part, called the base. At the same time, the edges of the waterproofing membrane are arranged inside the wooden formwork. The film is laid and fixed along the walls;
• With their own hands, the finished formwork is completely poured with a concrete mixture, periodically pushing the concrete layer to save it from air formations;
• Having distributed the ribbon foundation by level, give it to frozen. After a complete ripening of concrete, the formwork frame is removed, proceed to the outer waterproofing.

A bitumen mastic is used as a water-repellent material - liquid rubber or rubberoid.

For the arrangement of the floor surface inside the foundation, they make a pillow of a clay and a concrete tie, or a frame of wooden beams of overlapping and lags is mounted for the subsequent wooden flooring device.

All work on finishing flooring leaves for the time when walls and roofs are erected. On this topic, you can see the following video material.

Construction of frame walls

The framework under consideration by us is performed on frame-frame technology.

After the foundation got a smooth surface and was equipped with waterproofing, as in the photo, proceed to the construction of an extension frame.

For further construction of the structure, the following materials will be needed:

• wooden bars 150x150 mm;
• floor beams 100x150mm;
• glue-sealant for wood;
• self-tapping screws and anchor bolts.

To attach a frame to the house, on its wall it is necessary to make a strict vertical markup, relying on which the framework of frame elements or individual bars will occur.

The horizontal beam, located along the carrier of the main wall, is attached to it with anchors or steel corners.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of an extension to the house provides for the following row construction work:

• First of all, the strapping is mounted with your own hands. Brous connection technologies are somewhat, so you can apply direct in half nozzle or under a slope. The space in the frame, between the timber and concrete, is filled with polystyrene foam. Mounting of wooden elements with each other is carried out using self-tapping and liquid nails;
• In the corners, the bars for strength are connected due to bellows or anchors. Since the bars should be attached to the foundation, then their fixation is carried out with their own hands through the use of spills mounted in the carrier base. This can also be done using anchor bolts for which the holes are previously drilled in concrete;
• The floor beams are mounted to the lower strapping of the frame structure with a period of 60 cm. In the operation for fastening the beams, liquid nails and self-tapping screws are used. Next, plans the foundation of the base floor of the edged board;
• Then go to mount with your own hand stracks. It is appropriate to apply the screws simultaneously with metal fasteners. The racks are fixed with the gap, depending on the width of the fleud of the future insulation;
  On the initial stageUsing brazen or steel corners, carry out the installation of angular frame racks. They are temporarily insured using Ukusin, after which they are setting all subsequent.
• Next, mounted the upper strapping of the extension to the house. Here you can stick to the technology used for the construction of the first layer of timber;
• At the end, to strengthen the overall extension framework, the construction is strengthened by bars diagonally, remove the bodies. Racks of bars equip the binding elements, set the designs of door and window openings.

The correct installation of the timber is controlled by a construction level and a plumb.

If you immediately carry out the handle of the frame with wooden boards outside, the design will become more rigid. To add the above material will allow the following video about extensions.

Construction ceiling overlap and roofing

After the frame was attached to the house, proceed to the construction of the ceiling overlap.

To improve its arrangement, it is necessary to place the beams on the surface of the erected walls in a step of 60-70 cm and fasten with steel corners.

Most often among the existing methods of the device, the roofs for attachments to the house of the framework technology are chosen by a single-sided version.

This type of design is constructed from rafters, taking into account the correctly selected slope of the angle.

Noting the angle of the slope, which should be 25-300, spend the horizontal line on the capital wall.

It is fixed by a bar, which will be support for rafying at the top, as the end of the walls or already arranged beams of frame overlapping can be used as the bottom support.

At the same time, the rafter should appear beyond the boundaries of the lower support by 25-30 cm, which will exclude the possibility of rain precipitation on the walls of the house.

Installation of the rafter is carried out using steel galvanized corners.

The veranda and gazebo are stylish and functional decoration. cottage plot.
But if the gazebo is a separate construction, which can be used in summer time, then the veranda is a premises with a roof, walls and for year-round use attached to the house.

Warm veranda can perform the role of the corridor, hallway or rest room, greenhouses, winter garden, you can accommodate even the pool

What is the difference between the veranda and the terrace? These concepts are often confused, although they have a constructive and visual difference. The presence of roofs and walls, that is the distinguished by the veranda from the terrace and the porch.

The veranda is envisaged at the stage of building a house, but it is more often completed during operation. Therefore, many wonder how to attach the veranda to the house with their own hands. Below is a phased (step-by-step) instruction for the construction of the veranda to the private house.

1. Project veranda

Any construction begins with project development.

Summarizing the construction experience The veranda can be noted that they differ in the following parameters:

Location (adjoining to the house):

• Corner.
• Facial.
• Facade.

Celebration degree:

• Open.
• Closed (glazed.

By installing sliding doors for the veranda, you can transform a closed veranda in the open.

Constructive feature:

• Built-in veranda (built together with the house, has a common foundation with it).
• A set (delivered as needed, has its own foundation).

Form of the veranda:

• The popular form is a rectangle.
• Round (semicircular.
• Polygonal (hexagonal, octagonal).

The main purpose of the veranda is to make a house or cottage more spacious and decorate the building. An extension of the veranda performs and a purely utilitarian function - insulation of the house. Therefore, the question of how to attach the veranda to the house is correct. Despite the fact that the veranda is a summer construction, its construction provides for the fulfillment of a number of rules.

What is part of the construction project of the veranda:

• location of the veranda. Main options are indicated above. It is important that an extension is a continuation of the house, presenting a single architectural ensemble with him.

Note. The veranda is best spaced from the East or Western side, then it will be most of the time outside the direct sunlight. Also, it is necessary to take into account the wind load in the region and on the site, in particular.

• log in to the veranda. The entrance can be arranged from the street, from one of the rooms or being through, through the street to the house;

• door installation location. Entrance doors On the veranda and in the house it is undesirable to place against each other, otherwise the drafts cannot be avoided;

• the size of the veranda in the house. The length of the veranda is usually equal to the length of the wall, along which it is erected. The width is from 2.5 to 7 m. It is important that the sizes of the verandas are proportionally correlated with the size of the house.

Tip from the master. You do not need to save on the project. His high-quality execution is a guarantee that the veranda will be built correctly, and the design of the permissive documentation will not cause problems.

An example of a typical project veranda is shown in the diagram

How to attach a veranda to a wooden house

Any extension to the house from the tree is performed after the building shrinkage. A house from a bar or log gives shrinkage for a certain period (most actively for the first 2-3 years). To avoid skewing walls, you need to wait this period, or consider a connection to the house that allows the frame to play.

2. Documents for the construction of a veranda (permission)

An extension of the veranda refers to the restructuring of the house. Therefore, needs permitting documentation.

To obtain permission to build a veranda (on an extension, reconstruction), you must provide in the management of architecture:

1. a document confirming the right to own the area;
2. project house with a veranda;
3. the consent of all residents prescribed in the house;
4. application for registration.

Note. Starting paperwork must be started 2-3 months before planned construction work. According to user reviews, this procedure takes quite a long time.

In principle, it is possible to complete the veranda without documents, however, when selling, renting or transferring inheritance, problems with this property may arise. The veranda is part of the total area of \u200b\u200ba residential building, BTI can regard it as a "unauthorized increase in living space." Especially if heating was conducted on the veranda (warm veranda).

During the construction of the veranda should not be deviated from the size specified in the registered project. Any adjustment will entail a change in the project documentation and the payment of fine. The consequences of unauthorized construction are registered in the Law of the Russian Federation "On Architectural Activities in the Russian Federation" and the Civil Code, the excerpt from which is shown below.

The consequences for unauthorized buildings are listed below.

The last thing you need to do after the construction of the veranda is to legitimize the construction with the changes and get new documents.

3. Tools and materials for building a veranda

The tool depends on which material will be used during the construction of an extension. For wood, you need: hacksaw, screwdriver, hammer and ax, sledgehammer, roulette, plumb, level (construction and water), corner, cord for marking, shovel. For a metal frame, you will additionally need a Bulgarian and a welding machine.

Material

Economy (budget) veranda option is a metal frame, trimmed by plywood, OSB (OSB) plates or plastic lining.

A more presentable look has a veranda of brick, natural stone or wood. It is important here that the extension material corresponds to the material from which the house was built, cottage or harmony (combined) with them.

For construction wooden veranda It will take: sawn timber (log or timber, board, rail), fasteners (elements), protective solutions for wood, crushed stone, concrete, bitumen, olife or rubberoid, window and door systems, roofing material.

For veranda S. metal carcasy: Lumber will be replaced by metal corners and steel profile, solutions for metal processing are added, and otherwise materials will be the same.

The veranda of polycarbonate has proven itself to the fact that it allows you to unhindered to admire the surrounding landscape. In addition, polycarbonate is well holding heat, skips light, can be used for both walls and roofs. Plus, the value of the material is quite adequate. A cellular polycarbonate is used with a wall thickness of 14-18 mm.

Note. All materials that need to be processed must be processed before starting work. After the veranda is built, the processing will be harder.

Preparation for construction

The construction of the veranda begins with the preparation of the place. A part of the site allotted under the veranda turns into a construction site. Before starting work, you need:

• remove the visor over the entrance;
• dismantle the porch;
• clean the territory from green plantings and garbage;
• remove part of the turf;
• thinking through the place of laying construction materials and construction trash.

4. Foundation under the veranda to the house

Before proceeding to the fill of the foundation, it is necessary to determine its appearance. The largest distribution was obtained by a column foundation for the veranda, because it makes it possible to attach a veranda without binding to the main foundation of the house. However, a heavier veranda needs to fill the belt foundation.

An important point is the soil analysis, which makes it possible to reasonably choose the foundation for the veranda to the house. Considered: the ability of the soil to absorb moisture, the homogeneity and composition of the soil, the level of freezing, the height of the groundwater, the stability of the soil.

In addition, the design of the foundation of the house and the condition of the walls (wall material) will influence the choice of the foundation for an extension.

Deciding which foundation for the veranda is better to do, make marking under the ribbon or denote the installation site (supports) under the pile.

Note. For a small wooden veranda, it is enough to install pillars in the corners of the design. For long and broad provide additional posts along the length / width of the base. Recommended setting step 500-600 mm.

How to make a column foundation for the veranda

• drop the pits under the columns in a depth of about 1 m. It is important to know that the depth of the foundation for the veranda depends on the depth of the foundation of the house (must be the same) and the level of soil freezing;

• at the bottom of the pit, a pillow is made from a mixture of rubble and sand. They can be filled with layers, first sand, then crushed stone or gravel;

• a concrete base is poured;

• the support poles for a column foundation are laid / inserted:

From brick. If you need to make an extension of the veranda to the brick house;

From the bar. For wooden veranda;

Of asbestos pipes, concrete pillars or metal supports. For frame veranda.

The ground part of the poles is brought to the height of the main foundation of the house. If the base is high, you need to withdraw an extension to the level of the house.

An example in the photo (the first floor is used under the garage, the veranda is at the level of the second floor).

The installation location is covered with sand to eliminate and strengthen the gap between the post and the soil.

The construction of the veranda with a large mass requires the fill of the ribbon foundation. To do this, you need to dig a trench, set the formwork (just above the required height of the foundation), pour concrete. The process of complete pouring of concrete should be accompanied by periodic wetting with water for uniform solidification of the concrete mix.

5. Frame veranda

The mounting of the framework begins with the fulfillment of the bottom strapping. For this, the bar is stacked.

Note. Lower strapping may have a double system. It is for her that will be attached to the racks and lags of the floor.

Next are installed supports that form a framework of verandas to the house. The frame of the wooden veranda is made of a bar of 120x80 or 100x100. When using logs, their diameter must exceed 120 mm. Supports are recommended at a distance of 500-600 mm, but in practice it is rare. Nevertheless, the supports are necessarily installed in the corners and form door / window openings.

In height of the support is equal to the height of the veranda. At the same time, the supports mounted closer to the wall should be higher to form a scope roof. Methods for fastening the racks to the bottom strapping are shown in the figure.

Council. The rigidity of the supports will give the installed on top and bottom of the bonds.

When mounting the frame, the horizontal bars are installed, which will serve as the base for the installation of the windows and glazing.

The topping of the upper strapping ends the installation of the frame of the veranda. It will serve as a basis for forming rafter system, and give the frame to additional rigidity.

Note. So that the upper strapping does not twist, the supports must be fixed by temporary struts.

Many are interested in how to make a carcass veranda from the log. Indeed, in this case, the foundations of buildings are moving, and the log house itself. Therefore, all connections should be able to move (shift). The shrinkage compensators are installed below, and on top of the roofing is firmly attached to the slab rafter.

6. Roof veranda

A part of the frame is a rapid veranda system. Installation of rafters and crates depends on what roofing material will be covered with a roof of the veranda.

From the point of view of the design, such types of roofs for the veranda are distinguished:

Single roof veranda.

The easiest I. optimal option. In this case, the rafter system is mounted at an angle from the wall of the house, which allows rainwater or snow freely flush down without harming the construction.

Note. Single roof is more convenient from the point of view of the organization of drainage and, accordingly, the device of the drainage system.

Duscal roof of the veranda.

In this case, the veranda is attached to the house narrow part. It becomes like passing. This method did not find due propagation. More often such a roof is erected above the terrace.

The polygonal roof for the veranda is constructed in such a way as to withstand the angle of inclination for the flow of water.

Installation of the truss veranda system

On the wall of the house there is a board-run (timber 100x80 mm). The bar is attached anchor bolt. The tops of the rafter feet are mounted on it.

Malelalat is installed on the perimeter of the frame. In small wooden extensions, this feature is performed by top straps. They are installed the lower parts of the rafter feet.

The lower part of the rafter is mounted in such a way that it is possible to provide a sample (removal) of the roofing material, which means the protection of the veranda from the flow of flowing water.

Note. The distance between the rapid legs depends on the slope of the roof, the width of the veranda, the weight of the roofing material.

When installing the roofing system, the polygonal veranda is additionally installed board-run.

Depending on the material selected, the crate (for metal tile, ondulin, slate) is stuffed, or make a solid crate (for flexible roofing materials).

How to attach a veranda to home - video instruction

7. Paul on the veranda

The order of construction, materials, methods for fastening and processing.

Floor device technology with their own hands:

On the board of the lower strapping are lags. The distance between adjacent lags should be no more than 1 m. Lags are set perpendicular to how the floorboard will be laid.

Fastening lag to the strapping - important momentThe quality of its execution determines the operational characteristics of the floor. The installation of the lag is controlled by the level.

What makes the floors on the open veranda

Concrete floor on the veranda costs cheaper, plus, it is durable and implies a subsequent finish. For example, you can put a tile or linoleum. Wooden floor on the veranda, even painted, will deform with time. Plinth is also recommended to use a plastic with a wood decor.

How to cover the floors on a closed veranda

Paul closed veranda laid. In this case, the installation begins with the boards remote from the entrance. It is attached to lags directly through the board.

Subsequent boards are mounted by the spike-groove method, and the mounting of the methization is carried out through the groove.

How to mount a gender on the veranda

Flooring floor boards is recommended by self-drawing. Their length should be twice the width of the board. The distance from the edge of the floorboard to the wall is 10-15 mm. Such a gap will allow you to compensate for the expansion of wood in the hot season.

How to cover the floor on the veranda (open, closed)

Floor covering veranda of wood is one of the most popular and easy-to-device. Therefore, the question is relevant than to process the floor on the veranda to extend the service life and maintain aesthetic properties.

Sex boards will serve longer if they are additionally coated with solutions that prevent fungus appearance. As a finishing flooring, a decorative layer of paint or simulators is applied, opened on top of varnish.

The novelty among the LKM is the paint Dufa "Liquid plastic", intended for use on the street (well suited for an open veranda).

From transparent coatings, respect for users deserve:

• Tykkurila Vantti (oil for wood);
• Pinotex Terrace Oil;
• Alpina Oel Terrassen Dunkel;
• WATCO Danish Oil.;
• as well as epoxy varnishes (yacht-varnishes) that are intended for use in a humid environment.

• the tool must be intended for wood;

• possess resistant to abrasion;

• differing resistant to the influence of environmental factors (water, temperature, ultraviolet).

It is worth noting that the floor coverings are fairly expensive, but it is justified by the service life, without re-finishing and high aesthetic properties.

8. Roofing material for the veranda

As roofing, it is better to use such a roof of a veranda, which is installed on the main structure (house or cottage). Well established itself, bituminous tile ,. They are mounted in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

Note. So that the water does not register inside the veranda at the place of the junction of the roof of the extension to the wall of the house you need to lay on top of the roofing material of the joint bar.

The correct installation of the joint plank involves the manufacture of a narrow edge of the plank in the wall at home.

You can enjoy the surrounding beauty in the heat of the veranda by installing the transparent roofs for the veranda. In this case, the role of roofing material plays glass or cellular polycarbonate.

The new one is considered telescopic awning roofs or sliding roofs For the veranda.

). Installation of finishing materials depends on their type.

It is important to know that the wall of the veranda adjacent to the house is fixed by mortgages metal elements (details). Fastening should be tough.

Today, the walls of the walls of the veranda are popular. sliding systemsThe top half of which is glass, and the bottom wooden.

Note. Before proceeding to external and interior decoration Walls veranda need to give her time to stand out. This is especially true of the veranda of wood.

10. Glazing veranda

The windows occupy a significant part of the area of \u200b\u200bthe veranda walls. Due to the fact that the veranda is a summer structure, usually establish single wooden windows, most often plastic or wooden. The aluminum windows with multi-chamber windows are used.

A large veranda is equipped with both open and deaf windows. The first allow you to provide ventilation of the room, the second is to save on glazing. Sliding windows deserve attention to turn the veranda to an open terrace.

Among the new products are allocated flexible windows for the veranda. They allow to extend the operating period of the summer veranda. The advantage of windows in a relatively low cost, the ability to quickly mounted and disassemble for the winter. They make a high veranda safe for children's games, without disturbing its attractiveness.

Soft windows for veranda - rolled systems (PVC curtains) that allow you to glacify the veranda of any configuration (round, semicircular, oval).

Installation of soft windows - video