You can determine whether the foundation needs repairs by throwing only one glance at it. The fact that the days of the founding of the house are already numbered are indicated by the distortion of the building, cracks in the walls and the subsidence of the house. It is impossible to insure a building against such deformations, because over time, the foundation materials are destroyed. Therefore, one day the hour comes when the owners wooden house you have to decide what kind of repairs to do - partial or complete.

Conditions for partial and major repairs

In order to find out the degree of damage to the foundation and determine the necessary measures for its restoration, you need to carefully study the current state of the foundation and identify characteristic defects that can affect the strength and integrity of the building or its individual elements.

If cracks appear on the foundation, then you need to think about the need to repair it.

The foundation is restored fragmentarily if it has dropped lower, but has not begun to collapse. A complete repair is used when cracks and other damage are detected.

The decision on which basis to replace a completely damaged structure is made taking into account the type of soil, terrain and the type of foundation originally created.

If the foundation of the house has sunk into the ground, it's time to repair it.

With a strip base, they often do the following: the destroyed zones are dismantled and the structure along the entire perimeter is reinforced. In case of serious destruction, the foundation strips are decided on its complete replacement.

In case of serious defects in the strip base of the house, it makes sense to think about its complete replacement.

The repair of the columnar base is almost always carried out completely: all old building supports are replaced with new ones. To do this, the house is raised to the height of the posts with the help of jacks. New reliable supports are fixed on reinforced concrete cushions.

The columnar foundation is most often completely replaced with a new one.

A foundation made of wood, which has already been spoiled a little by the fungus, is usually replaced with a strip or columnar structure. To do this, the building is raised to a certain level and concrete blocks or bricks are substituted under it.

Strengthening the foundation of a house made of wood

When repairing the foundation, it makes sense to immediately reinforce it. This can be done if you are confident in the stability of the soil, which is below the level of the foundation of your house. Strengthening the structure under the building may also be required in the case when it is planned to make another floor in the house, but there is a suspicion that the previously installed base will not withstand the increased load.

There are two ways to strengthen the foundation, depending on the load that it has to withstand

Instructions for strengthening the tape structure

To make the foundation more durable, perform the following work:

1. A trench is dug along the perimeter of the base. The hole must be wide, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work. In addition, one must take into account that the new foundation will become more powerful.
2. The soil is cleaned from the excavated foundation. To do this, use a metal brush.

   The trench must be wide enough to be comfortable to work in.

3. Holes are made in the old base with a drill. It is important that their diameter exceeds the thickness of the purchased reinforcing rods by no more than 1 mm. In this case metal elements will be installed securely and without gaps.
4. Reinforcement rods are inserted into the drilled holes with a hammer. They will help tie the new foundation to the old one.

   V drilled holes reinforcement rods are hammered, to which a vertical grid is attached

5. The next metal elements are welded to the hammered rods, forming a reinforced belt. It is better to solder the fittings with the rods already installed in only a few places. For the most part, it is wiser to wire the metal elements to avoid deformation of the reinforcement belt during pouring and hardening of the concrete.

   The reinforcement cage will firmly connect the old foundation with the reinforcing concrete structure

6. The formwork is installed and filled with concrete. After waiting for the solution to harden, the structure of the boards is dismantled. For several days, the new foundation is not touched, so that it is even more solidified.

   A formwork is installed around the reinforcing cage and concrete is poured into it. After the reinforcing layer has hardened, the formwork is removed

7. The created base is covered with a waterproofing material. A sloped asphalt strip is created around the foundation.

Thanks to the reinforcement, the weight of the wooden building is distributed over larger area... This method allows you to stop subsidence and destruction of the house.

Video: how to strengthen the strip foundation

Replacing the base under a timber building

The method of replacing the base depends on its type.

Replacing the strip foundation

Overhaul of the base in the form of a tape is carried out in stages:

1. In order to reduce the pressure on the base, furniture is removed from the house, the floors are dismantled, and the stove is dismantled. Only the heating equipment standing on a separate concrete site.
2. The structure is slightly raised. If the house is small, then its level in relation to the ground is changed with the help of a kind of lever for lifting weights - a beam of 8x8 cm in size, wound up at the corner of the building. A log will serve as a support for him. For heavy construction, it is better to choose thicker lumber. The wooden structure is raised by applying pressure to the timber.

   The house is lifted on jacks and temporary supports are placed under it.

3. A trench is dug around the house or only in areas where it is necessary to raise a wooden building.
4. A jack is put under the old foundation. There may be several mechanisms for raising a building. The number of jacks is determined by their carrying capacity and the weight of the house. Mechanisms can only be installed in areas where there is no damage.
5. With the help of a jack, the house is slowly raised to the desired level. It is important to rise evenly above the ground. Since there is a risk of unsuccessful installation of the jack, it is advisable to play it safe - put wooden wedges between the structure and the base cushion.
   

   The house is lifted evenly with several jacks. For insurance, wooden blocks are placed under the load-bearing beams.

6. The lower crown of the raised wooden structure is pulled together with a steel hoop or hammered in with strong boards. This will protect the home's overloaded lower rails from damage.
7. The house is freed from the former foundation to the very surface of the earth. If you are not ready to spend a lot on repairing the base, then you can disassemble the structure in part - remove only the destroyed areas.

   A hammer drill is used to destroy the old foundation.

8. Under the reconstructed base of the house, a pillow is made of sand-cement mixture... Supports made of concrete or bricks are placed in the corners of the building. You can use piles instead. Thanks to the installation of supports, the size of which must correspond to the height of the base to be built, in the future the base will be able to withstand increased pressure.
9. A reinforcing belt is constructed, which is necessary to strengthen the base. Elements of a metal structure are connected not by welding, but by wire.
10. Formwork is hammered from the boards. The finished structure is filled with concrete.

    Formwork with a reinforcing frame inside is reinforced with side supports and poured with concrete

11. After 3 days, the concrete hardens, so the formwork is removed, but further work is not yet carried out, waiting for the foundation to harden.
12. A few days after dismantling the formwork, the new base is covered with a waterproofing sheet, for example, roofing material.

    A few days after removing the formwork, the foundation is covered with waterproofing material.

13. The house is lowered, acting as slowly as during the raising of the building. The front side of the base is covered with waterproofing and facing materials... A blind area is made around the house, which will not allow rainwater to seep into the base.

Video: how to repair a tape concrete base

Repair of support pillars

To replace the columnar foundation, proceed as follows:

If it is necessary to replace only a few pillars, they act differently: in the area of ​​their location, undermines are made, pipes are immersed in them and poured with concrete. The old supports are dismantled after the solution has hardened.

Video: replacing the columnar foundation with your own hands

Converting a foundation from rubble or brick to a monolith

Since the brick foundation is characterized by increased fragility, it is more expedient to replace it with a concrete base.

To build on the site of a brick or rubble base concrete foundation, perform the following actions:

Video: brick foundation repair

DIY wooden house foundation repair

Wooden foundations are mostly made from pine or larch. A structure made of wood always requires a complete replacement, since over time it is completely covered with fungus and decays. The replacement of old elements of such a base with new ones is carried out as follows:

The damaged foundation of a dilapidated wooden house can be repaired. To do this, you need to gain the necessary knowledge and choose a repair or replacement technology. The reconstruction of the base of the house can be done with your own hands, if there is a desire and at least a little experience in the production of construction work.

In a private house or in a "Khrushchev", it is most often required to replace old wooden floors, since their service is limited a certain period exploitation. Wooden floors are subject to deformation from constant temperature changes and exposure to humid air. Wood is an environmentally friendly, durable and affordable material with reliable heat-shielding characteristics, wood floors look cozy and match any surface. In order to decide to replace floors with your own hands in an old house or in a "Khrushchev", you must first determine the degree of wear and tear and possible repair options.

Signs of wear on a wooden floor

You can make sure that the floors are really unusable and you can replace them yourself by checking a few basic indicators:

• boards emit a squeak when loaded;
• boards sag under the weight of furniture;
• significant differences in level are noticeable, water flows in one direction;
• cracks and gaps appeared between the floorboards;
• wood becomes rotten and crumbles with any impact on it.

If you have come to the conclusion that the repair is useless in this case, then you should plan for a full-scale redecoration of the floor. The video shows a list of the tools that you will need in order to change wooden floors with your own hands. There are several steps you can take, including:

• determination of the amount of materials - logs are calculated based on laying every 0.5 - 0.8 m from each other, boards with a width of at least 40 mm are used for floorboards, and how many boards will be required to re-roof the floors, they are calculated based on the area of ​​the floor with a margin not less than 1%;
• processing of wood with an impregnation with antiseptic properties to prevent rot and mold;
• the device of a hydro-barrier before laying the logs on the surface of the soil or concrete base, for this purpose, sheets of roofing material can be used, placed in two or three layers under each log.

Replacing the old floor

If the floors are replaced not in the "Khrushchev", but in a private house or in the country, then after dismantling the old floors, the base should be leveled under the logs, this requires several steps:

1. Level and compact the ground;
2. In the places where the supports are installed, dig holes 200 × 200 mm deep up to half a meter;
3. Fill up with 60 mm layers of sand, crushed stone and rubble crumbs;
4. Pour with prepared concrete mortar;
5. Build brick posts on the frozen solution so that horizontal support bars can be laid on them;
6. Then the logs are laid perpendicular to the support beams, and the space between the logs is sewn up with OSB sheets;
7. Support bars and logs are covered with protective impregnations and it is desirable to additionally cover with bituminous mastic;
8. Further, the floor surface is covered with waterproofing in the form of a dense film.

The video shows how the logs are laid on a leveled base and their strictly horizontal position is checked with a hydro level (spirit level). To do this, you can use a cord stretched between the most extreme logs, then the logs are carefully leveled in height relative to the cord, picking up small pieces of plywood of suitable thickness in the right places so that the cord remains evenly stretched and in contact with all the beams.

Important! The space between the lags must be filled with insulation, which can be used as mineral wool, penoplex or expanded polystyrene. All of these materials additionally have sound-absorbing properties. The price of these materials is not high and can be purchased at any hardware store.

When we reshape the floors with our own hands in the "Khrushchev" or at the dacha, on the prepared boards we mark the required size with a tape measure and, using a square, cut the boards strictly in compliance with right angle... In order for the wooden floors in the house or in the "Khrushchev" to be strong and durable, you need to try to follow the basic rules:

• joining the floorboards is permissible only in the middle of the log;
• between the boards and the adjacent wall, it is necessary to provide for a gap of one and a half centimeters for the free expansion of the wood in the warm season, the gap left under the plinth will be invisible;
• to fix the boards, you need to use self-tapping screws three times the thickness of the board, since the nails gradually crawl out due to the constant expansion and contraction of the wood fibers, which creates inconvenience and leads to dangerous consequences;
• when laying, the boards should be knocked together as tightly as possible, for which they use a hammer and an extension from a bar, it is advisable to place the floorboards in the main direction of daylight from the window openings;
• caps of self-tapping screws, which must be hidden in the wood, and the resulting cracks must be covered with a special mixture (sealants, putties);
• the surface of the floor must be treated with a grinder;
• a primer or drying oil is applied to the laid boards and painted with acrylic or oil paints.

Important! It is very convenient to use tongue-and-groove boards for replacing floors with your own hands in a "Khrushchev" or at the dacha, which have longitudinal projections on one side, and grooves on the other - special grooves, exactly aligned with the projections. Grooved boards are thoroughly cleaned during the manufacturing process and do not require additional sanding.

This video demonstrates in detail the process of laying tongue-and-groove flooring, which creates a very neat, comfortable impression. Their cost is not much higher than the cost of ordinary boards, but the quality of processing and ease of installation pays for the money spent. Often, in order to emphasize additional aesthetic accents in the interior, the boards are not painted, but in the "rustic style" they are coated with alkyd varnish of different color saturation, the low price of varnishing makes this method very attractive. Any coverings can be laid on top of a wooden floor: laminate, linoleum, carpet, ceramic tiles.

In this master class, you will learn how to replace a wooden floor in an old house with a concrete insulated screed over the ground. This floor is planned to be used for the installation of a water heated floor. In addition, you will find out what materials you need and their approximate cost.

Preparation for work

To carry out work on the reconstruction of the floor and preparing it for a water-heated floor, we have to do several operations: dismantling the old wooden coating, leveling the soil, filling the pillows, laying insulation, preparing the mortar, pouring the screed.

To work we need the following tools:

1. Buckets (plastic).
2. Construction level.
3. Shovel shovel.
4. Rule.
5. Concrete mixer.
6. Fomka.

Materials that we need based on a room with an area of ​​4x3 m:

Name	Unit rev.	Quantity	Unit price, rub.	Total cost, rub.
Cement	Kg	250	46	1150
Sand	Kg	3000	0,30	900
Crushed stone	Kg	1000	1	1000
Dropout	Kg	1500	0,60	900
Extrusion	m 2	12	263	3156
Styrofoam	m 3	0,36	1610	579,60
Total				7685,60

Dismantling the old wooden floor

We disassemble old floors with a crowbar, not forgetting about safety precautions.

Leveling the ground

After the old floor is completely dismantled, it is necessary to remove all the debris from the underground, and the soil should be properly leveled. You can use a rake or a shovel.

Arrangement of a pillow

After the ground is leveled, we begin to equip the pillow. Fall asleep the layer crushed granite fractions 20-40 with a layer of 5 cm. We use crushed stone in order to protect the floor from mice. You can replace it with a small break of bricks, or broken slate. Lightly tamp the poured layer of gravel.

Along the perimeter of the room, to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed, foam sheets are laid. It will also play the role of a permanent formwork and insulate the ends of the finished slab. The thickness of the foam sheet is from 20 to 50 cm, thicker is not necessary.

We put a layer of sand up to 10 cm on the crushed stone. The sand should be clean, without debris and foreign inclusions.

Insulation laying

We use extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 50 mm as insulation. The dimensions of the sheets are standard 1.2x0.6 m.

The sheets have a "locking" device in the form of a "step", this is clearly seen in the photograph. When laying sheets, the locks are connected, and the surface is solid, without gaps.

Since extruded polystyrene foam (extrusion) is completely indifferent to moisture, you can do without waterproofing. We lay the sheets, checking with a level that they lie flat. We add sand in the right places and check again.

Mortar preparation and screed filling

If the room is a walk-through and is actively used (as in our case), fill the screed in two stages. First one half, then the other. To do this, we install a formwork from a long board.

To prepare the solution, we need cement - 1 part, sand - 2 parts and granite screening (fine fraction gray, resulting from the calibration of crushed stone, i.e. granite dust and very small fragments of crushed stone) - 3 parts.

Advice on how to knead the solution if the components are dry: first we send the screenings to the concrete mixer, then sand, then cement, mix everything thoroughly on dry and only then add water.

Advice on how to knead the solution if the sand or screenings are wet: first, pour water 0.5-0.7 in the volume of a measuring bucket, then add cement, mix thoroughly, then sand, and lastly screenings. So you will avoid sticking of wet sand to the walls and, as a result, the solution is not mixed. Then add water to the desired consistency.

The finished solution should not flow in consistency, but also not be too thick. On a flat surface, when dropped out of the bucket, it will spread into a "cake", as shown in the photo below.

We wear the mortar and level it with a rule, or with a board of a suitable size. The thickness of the screed should be 4-5 cm, it cannot be thinner, it may burst. If desired, you can lay a reinforcing mesh, but you can do without it, since in the future, when arranging a water heated floor, the mesh will be used in the second layer of the screed. This screed is rough, and is only the preparation of the base for the underfloor heating.

After pouring, let the mortar set for at least 48 hours.

We begin to prepare the second part of the room. All works are identical. We remove the formwork, clean the "locks" of the slabs from the sand and lay the insulation. Do not forget to set each sheet by level!

Fill the second part of the room cement mortar similar to the first part.

Align the fresh screed in thickness with the already poured one.

When the concrete is completely poured, let it settle for at least two days.

After all the work, we should get this floor. You can already walk on it. The screed gains full strength within a month. At this time, it is advisable to moisturize it by watering it twice a day from a watering can. In the future, on this basis, a warm floor will be made based on water heating.

Alexander Birzhin, rmnt.ru

Wooden houses mean comfort and coziness, a special microclimate and positive energy. In order for it to serve for a long time, you need to carry out current repairs on time and with high quality.

The experience of operating wooden buildings shows that without special tools, experience and knowledge, structural elements it is extremely risky to touch structures. When replacing crowns and repairing the foundation of a wooden house, the cost of professional services will pay off with the durability of the structure.

Source cutala.free.bg

Causes of destruction of the integrity of the lower rims

Perfectly wooden building will stand without major repairs for half a century. The "weak link" of the design is the bottom rows. Moisture seeps through the cracks inside the wood and through the cracks between the logs. In damp places, spores of the fungus begin to develop. Mold appears, then rot. Internal destruction of wood is completed by insect pests.

The reasons why wood is destroyed can be as follows:

Use of unprepared material. Raw timber harvested "out of season" quickly loses its strength and begins to deteriorate.

Great importance has a wood species. For example, when choosing larch for the construction of the lower rows for high humidity you don't have to worry, the tree will only get stronger. It is not recommended to use linden logs as lower rims.

Poor-quality waterproofing of the foundation, performed in violation of technology.

Failure to comply with the antiseptic technology of building material.

Insufficient air exchange in the underground space, lack of ventilation ducts.

Source zen.yandex.com

Incorrectly erected foundation that does not correspond to the type of soil, relief, without taking into account the depth of the groundwater, climatic conditions region.

Illiterately mounted facade panels closing the crowns.

All reasons boil down to two main factors: improper use of the home or an unprofessional approach to the work of builders.

How to determine the degree of destruction of the crowns

To radically solve the issue of replacing the crowns in wooden house and the extent of reconstruction, the extent of the damage must be determined.

The dull sound of an ax butt on a log will give out the degree of destruction of the wood from the inside. If you work with a chisel, you can imagine a more complete picture of the damage. A routine inspection is not enough to correctly assess the condition of a building. A professional approach involves assessing the state of the foundation, determining the degree of load on the structure. Experienced craftsmen can give an accurate forecast for the further operation of the dwelling. If you do not need to completely change the rows of logs, you can save your family budget. And, conversely, time, effort and money can be spent on local repairs, but it will not lead to the expected result.

Source wileyloghomes.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer a foundation repair service. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Features of reconstruction

Before starting work, you should free the premises from furniture and things. Take out window frames remove the doors and disassemble the door frames.

The chimneys of the stove or fireplace are separated from the ceilings and the roof. They do everything possible to facilitate construction and avoid distortions. Hold the intact rows together.

Illiterate actions can lead to damage to the roof, chimneys and attic floors. Therefore, it is not recommended to carry out them yourself.

The technology is quite complex and depends on the following points:

foundation conditions;

the degree of destruction of wood;

building dimensions, number of storeys;

the size of the free space near the building;

the presence of adjacent buildings,

chimney design and condition.

If the stove does not have a separate foundation, as provided for by the construction technology, it will not work to raise the house. A specialist who has the necessary knowledge and experience in this area will be able to choose the right method of restoration work.

Whenever possible, materials are used that are as close as possible to the original ones; sometimes it is advisable to replace the decayed parts with bricks.

Source woicetosh.blogspot.com

Sometimes wooden facades covered with siding or bricked to hide the elements of reconstruction. A waterproofing layer is laid between the foundation and the new rows, the wood is treated with an antiseptic.

Reconstruction methods

There are several ways to repair crowns:

Partial replacement (local restoration of wood rotting places).

Brickwork instead of damaged crowns.

Replacing a lower log in a wooden house when lifting a log house with jacks.

Each of these methods has features, advantages and disadvantages.

Partial crown replacement

Assumes local reconstruction. This is the most affordable and low-budget way. Spot repair is possible when the wood has just started to deteriorate and does not have a large scale of damage. However, such a technological technique has a drawback - the strength of the structure decreases, the heat loss of the room increases. With a competent approach to business, these shortcomings can be minimized.

An important point: it is necessary to correctly determine the boundaries of damage. If this is not done, the effort will be in vain. The decay process will continue.

Source vam-mucziki.ru

In order for the inserts to hold for a long time, their dimensions must fully correspond to the removed elements. Around the places where new bars are inserted, craftsmen make special holes for driving in dowels.

Brickwork instead of damaged crowns

Partial wood restoration technology is a temporary measure. Therefore, brickwork is more often chosen as a way to solve the problem. This can be done with or without jacking up the entire structure. The age of the building, the type and condition of the foundation, and possible material investments are taken into account.

Places affected by rot are cut out. End connections are cut off and solid brick supports are installed in their place. A brick foundation is laid, its surface is brought under intact logs. With this method, several rows can be updated at once.

If the brickwork is carried out with the lifting of the structure with jacks, the scheme is as follows:

When replacing the two lower rims, cut out two logs and set the jack in such a way that it rests against the third row.

The structure is raised at the corners and temporary supports are installed. To avoid dangerous distortions, the structure is raised simultaneously from all sides.

Source beloozersk.zakup.by

The old foundation is being removed.

The structure is lowered only after it has been completed brickwork and a waterproofing layer was installed.

Complete replacement of the lower rims

Unlike local repair, the cost of replacing crowns in a wooden house with the help of hydraulic or screw devices will be more expensive, but the result will justify the money spent.

Jacks are installed with an emphasis on the upper logs so that the lower ones can be removed. Temporary supports are being erected. The equipment used to raise the structure must be reliable. Breakage of the jack while lifting the structure can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure and injury to people.

Although the jacking process will require more time and effort, the lifespan of the structure before the next major overhaul will increase significantly. The renewed waterproofing layer will keep moisture out of the wooden walls.

What is the price of

When replacing the lower rims of a wooden house, the cost of work depends on the complexity of the repair, the degree of wear of materials, the terrain, and the size of the house.

Source nicstroy.ru

When the lower rims of a wooden house are replaced, the cost of the work consists of the following components:

The whole range of actions to raise the structure.

Dismantling the damaged crown.

Preparation and installation of a new crown.

Construction of a new foundation.

Waterproofing device.

Installation of fasteners.

To this should be added the cost of building materials.

On average, the cost of services for replacing the lower crown in Moscow starts from 5000 per 1 sq. M. rubles for the smallest timber. If the walls are made of logs, then the price for replacing crowns in a wooden house will be more expensive: from 13,000 rubles per 1 sq. M.

Video description

Clearly about lifting a wooden house with jacks in the video:

Conclusion

Determining the exact amount of work and the correct way to restore the lower rims will allow you not to spend extra money on reconstruction. Handicraft restoration can lead to distortion of the structure and further destruction of the house.

It makes no sense to save on hiring specialists, because the price of work for replacing a crown in a wooden house is not sky-high and it is better to carry out a renovation once with a high quality than constantly face new problems.

Quite often we solve problems with floors in private wooden houses for our Customers, whether it is a complete replacement with insulation, or a change of the final floor covering. The main reasons why people turn to us for this are subsidence of floors, violation of the geometry of planes, partial rotting and destruction of sexual lags, insufficiency or complete absence of insulation (cold floor), etc.

In most cases, the reasons causing these unpleasant consequences are violations of the technology for installing floors and floor coverings, insufficient or lack of airflow in the underground, the proximity of groundwater, the low height of the basement of the house and ventilation openings, and the most commonplace is saving on the cross-section and the number of floor transfers and the thickness of the bearing layer (trampoline floors). Everything is solvable, and absolutely any situation can be corrected, there would be a desire and money. The most important thing is not to start the problem, otherwise the day is not far off when it will be simply dangerous to walk on the floors, and it may fail completely (we have met this). So, we figured out the main reasons for the violation of functionality. Now let's get to the point.

Dismantling the floor.

The first step when replacing and / or insulating floors with your own hands will necessarily be the dismantling of the baseboards around the perimeter of the room and the existing one. floor covering, and possibly translations. No special skills are required here, the main thing is accuracy in work and attentiveness during disassembly, so as not to disrupt communications (mainly electrical wiring and sewerage, possibly - water supply with heating). After all this, the removal of the accumulated construction waste follows (there will be a lot of it, prepare a place for its disposal in advance). Often, long boards and translations are no longer possible to take out through the doors, so either we cut them right in the room (inconvenient, besides, when using a chainsaw, the smell of exhaust gases remains), or we feed them through the windows (most often this is done).

Device for sexual transfers.

In general, if you really need to replace the floors, it is rare that the translations are not changed at the same time, because if the coating has already rotted, then the supporting beams are definitely also damaged. Modern technologies laying floors and installing a supporting frame, they necessarily mean the treatment of both beams and subfloor boards with difficult-to-wash antiseptics, which significantly reduce the degree of damage to them by fungus, insects and pathogens. The dacha squadron of the last century was rarely puzzled by this, and therefore translations that collapse right in the hands are not a rarity, but rather a pattern. So - we definitely buy an antiseptic in hardware stores, and we are not lazy to process the tree, this is important.

What else? Organization of correct air exchange in the underground. The main reason why floors and floor logs rot is the lack of proper air exchange. Natural ventilation is the key to a long life for your floors and a healthy indoor climate. Often in private houses on the ground floor, there is a persistent smell of mildew, especially in spring and autumn. This is the first sign that the number of air vents is either insufficient, or they are organized incorrectly (there are deaf pockets, not through vents, etc.). Therefore, at overhaul floors should pay close attention to this, and, if necessary, correct mistakes made during construction. It would also be nice to check the literacy of the organization of waterproofing the foundation and the condition of the backfill under the house (most often it is sand, it is possible to fill the subfloor with expanded clay).

Arrangement and installation of floor slabs.

This stage is important in terms of the selection of the correct cross-sections of the bearing elements, here you can find all kinds of online and offline beam calculators to help you. The main principle is that the section should be matched with a load margin, the required lag step is mainly selected based on the selected finishing coating (it is one for a grooved board, for plywood, taking into account the subsequent laying of another laminate, etc.), or they are repelled from the width insulation mats. What else should you pay attention to? Floor level. Recently, the main trend in the installation of floors in private wooden houses is the installation of the latter in one level on the entire floor, without level transitions. Accordingly, all boxes interior doors assembled and installed without thresholds, with the exception of kitchen and bathroom doors. This is undeniably more convenient to use.

How to do it? If we change the floor in some separate room, then we need to push off from the level that already exists in the next one. Here we are helped by a laser or water level, with the help of which we transfer marks in the corners of the room. After that, we subtract the future thickness of the floors (grooved boards from 28 to 45 mm, plywood from 18 to 22 mm, less thickness does not pass without organizing the flooring from the boards), we put down new marks - this is the plane of the overlap lag. Then we set the extreme slabs of the floors according to the marks, and fix them. A prerequisite for supporting transfers on a concrete base is waterproofing of the contact point.

An independent floor is considered good form when translations are not tied to the walls of the house. They can be mounted on the cheeks of the foundation, or on posts inside the room. At the same time, it is better if these are not pillars laid out of foundation blocks or bricks (from practice - without a proper foundation, they tilt and do not perform their functions after 3-5 years), but drilled and cast into a sleeve made of asbestos-cement or plastic pipe piles. The location of the piles is individual for each room, we are guided by beam calculators for calculating the deflection and common sense, too a large number of complicates and increases the cost of the whole process.

Move on. Now we have something to support the lags, the extreme ones are already mounted. Collecting the rest into the system is a matter of technology. It is necessary to pull the lace on both edges and in the middle, and continue the installation of the floor transfers with the required step, controlling the gaps under the stretched threads (should be the same and minimal). As a result, we get a flat plane.

We collect subfloors.

A rough (black) floor is added as an additional layer when insulating floors, most often it is a boardwalk (on cranial bars fixed on the inside of the lag) from edged boards section 150x25 or 100x25 mm, pretreated with an antiseptic. Adds rigidity to the entire structure of the floor, serves as an additional insulating layer, protects the final finishing of the floor from moisture, and the whole cake of insulation lies on it. How to make subfloors correctly? We need bars with a cross section of 30x30 mm, and an edged inch board. We fasten the cranial bar on the inner sides of the transfers, measure the width of the clearances between the lags. We cut the boards to a size slightly smaller than the span, and place the boards tightly on the bars. Actually, that's all.

Floor insulation in a wooden house.

It is not difficult to properly insulate the floor in the house with your own hands. The insulation cake, if you follow the technology, consists of subfloors, a waterproofing layer, a thermal insulation layer, and a vapor barrier. The process itself is simple. Using a construction stapler, we mount a waterproofing membrane on top of the subfloor and the lag of the floor, which goes around each transfer, we monitor the abutments to the walls, and control its integrity. Then we put the required layer of insulation in the resulting pockets, you should not do less than 100 mm (today there is plenty to choose from on the market, therefore such anachronisms as shavings with sawdust, glass wool, expanded clay, fallen leaves have not been used for a long time). The choice of the manufacturer is the business of the customer, we, in turn, most often recommend and use the products of Knauf in our work. We pass along the walls along the transfers with a roller made of insulation, we control the absence of cracks and cold bridges (the abutment of the mats must necessarily be overlapped with the next layer). There are no fundamental differences between roll and briquette insulation in the floors, you can use any, a matter of ease of use. We do not recommend using polystyrene and expanded polystyrene - mice are very fond of them, and they burn great, emitting deadly substances.

The next layer will be a vapor barrier membrane, we also mount it with a stapler, monitor the abutment to the walls and the overlap. After that, you need to organize the air between the insulation and the base of the floor, the easiest way is to sew thin sliced ​​slats over the log, fortunately, they are not expensive. We figured out the insulation, let's move on.

Plywood flooring for laminate.

In the past few years, when replacing floors in a country house as a finishing floor, customers increasingly choose laminate flooring as a topcoat. The choice is not accidental - the highest performance and a huge variety of colors and textures speak for themselves. Long-lasting, unpretentious, low price square meter, does not dry out like a grooved board, does not need to be painted - perfect option... Linoleum? Not quite what you need - it does not breathe a little more than completely, the only plus is ease of cleaning and a slightly lower price, and even then not always. Can be put in the hallway, kitchen and bathroom.

So, laminate - laying in the dacha country house... We need an even and durable base that does not “walk” in temperature and humidity fluctuations. What to choose? Boarding made of edged sawn timber disappears - the moisture content of the original material is 12-14%, different thickness of the boards. OSB sheets, even 12.5 mm thick, do not have sufficient rigidity. DSP - let's say, the cement in the house, especially on the floor, is never comme il faut. Plywood remains. The thickness that suits us starts at 18 mm, it is better if it is 21 mm. Which one to choose? Definitely it should be birch plywood, since plywood is made of conifers not strong enough and more demanding on the frequency of transfers. Grade, everything is also simple here, we do not need polished of the highest quality, since this is not a topcoat. Accordingly, you can save a lot if you go directly to the manufacturer or an authorized dealer and buy the so-called economy class, which is much cheaper, and suits our purposes perfectly.

The process of laying plywood on ready-made translations is simple, the most important thing was not to make a mistake during the installation of the translations, so that the joints of the sheets hit the middle of the log, this is critical. The step-by-step installation of plywood on the floor is as follows:

• we check the diagonals of the room, determine the right angle along the walls;
• temporarily lay the sheets along the walls, where we have determined the right angle (or its semblance), with the letter G;
• we check the correctness of the laying of the sheets, whether they go away from the joint line in the middle of the translation, if necessary, we trim the sheets along the wall to achieve the desired result (it is important - only one side is cut along the wall, otherwise all the sheets will have to be trimmed later);
• we provide for small cracks near the walls for possible expansion of the plywood;
• then everything is simple, we pre-drill the plywood with a drill of a smaller diameter than the self-tapping screw and fasten it (life hack - we fix the joints of sheets between translations on scraps of plywood or boards, which we fasten by slipping under the previous sheet to get a solid and hard flooring).

Thus, we get an even and rigid base for the subsequent laying of the topcoat. In this particular case, it was a laminate, the plinths were chosen to match it, plastic. The final result is in the photo.

Video - the process of replacing and insulating floors in a private wooden house.