Repair wooden windows do it yourself - the question is quite relevant. Wooden windows do not recede even in the age of modern plastic ones. Wood is not only a natural prestigious material, it also has real advantages: wooden windows are resistant to external influences, provide excellent sound and heat insulation. And most importantly, the optimal humidity is automatically maintained in a house with wooden windows.

Manufacturers, seeing that the "plastic boom" in the window market is subsiding, are vying with each other to offer windows made of modified wood. Nothing bad can be said about them, except for the price: not that it is not happy - it scares. Meanwhile, the restoration of wooden windows with your own hands is not so difficult, and as a result, the window that was killed by the great-grandfather can be restored to the appearance of a completely new product.

Technology, tools, materials

Independent and professional restoration of old windows is most often based on the so-called Swedish technology. But if you figure it out, then its whole essence boils down to inserting a Euro-strip sealing cord, and fitting and repainting remain in the field of additional services, the price is from 3000 rubles / window. And in principle, the Euro-strip technology is not restoration, but insulation. (About which on the eve of the onset of cold weather).

In the meantime, we will find out what kind of tool and materials will be needed for this - there will be few of them:

Zenzubel (selector)

• A set of chisels of various widths, from 4 to 30 mm.
• A special plane for cutting and cleaning folds, quarters, grooves and sharp edges of perpendicular cuts - zenzubel; in Russian - selector, see the figure on the right.
• A fragment of a wide, 4-6 mm and thin, no more than 0.3 mm hacksaw or jigsaw blade (saw band). If there is a manual jigsaw on the farm, then a solid tape for it.
• A wide boot knife or palette knife is a special knife used by painters to clean paint from a palette.
• Thin-walled core drill for wood 8-10 mm inside; purchased after revision of the sashes.
• Carpenter's square.
• Raceway or bubble level 1 m.

You will also need a plumb line, but you can easily make it yourself from a thread with a nut. From the materials you will need the following:

1. Assembly glue for wood - "liquid nails", about 0.3 kg.
2. Wood putty on sawdust of the desired tone, 0.5 kg, or 0.5 liters of fine sawdust; sold in hardware stores.
3. Natural drying oil, 3 kg for a two-room apartment of average size.
4. Densely grated (dry mixture of pigment with a filler, diluted by hand with a thinner) whitewash, titanium or zinc, 2 kg at the same rate.
5. Flange brushes 40 and 80 mm.
6. Kerosene, 2 liters.
7. Nails, small and 60-80 mm, 0.5 kg each.
8. Skin No. 60 or No. 80, 0.7 m.
9. A dense plastic bag with a depth of 1.7 m and a width of 0.5 m. bedding etc. The holes need to be sealed with tape.
10. A sheet of plywood or a flat board made of boards slightly larger than the window frame.
11. Scraps of aviation or water-resistant plywood 1-1.5 mm thick or a block of solid fine-grained wood - oak, beech, walnut, rowan, pear, plum, cherry, acacia.
12. Silicone AQUARIUM glue, 10-20 ml.

Note: polymer putties of deep penetration for wood on water based not suitable for this case: they significantly increase the thermal conductivity of wooden parts.

Additionally, depending on the design of the window, you may need a stain of the desired tone and acrylic clear varnish. If you can use an industrial hair dryer, you won't need kerosene and a large plastic bag. Stocking up on the above, you can start overhauling old windows.

Working conditions

It is better to take for windows in dry, warm, even hot weather: the permissible air humidity is not more than 65%, and preferably 40%. In case of bad weather, we tighten the window openings for the period of repair with a film on a temporary frame made of waste sawn timber: slabs, waste, old picket fences, etc.

Correct and incorrect seating of the dowel

Disassembly and revision

The most important element of the window construction is the wooden bosses-pins ("chopiki") fastening it at the corners. Sufficient attention will be paid to the description of the methods of working with them, and the repair of the window begins precisely with the inspection and revision of the dowels.

First of all, we remove the sashes, remove the glazing beads or carefully pick out the putty with a chisel and take out the glass. Then we completely remove the fittings (it will still need a new one); We carefully remove the wooden drips (drips) from the outer flaps: they are on the nails, which are probably rusted. We also take out all the other nails, remove the steel squares - for further work, only wood should remain in the frame and sashes.

Next, we put the frame and then the sashes one by one on the shield and level them to squareness, measuring the diagonals: they should be of equal length. We especially carefully measure and level the vents: they are small and the cost of an error is high. 1 mm of divergence of the diagonals along the length gives a gap of 0.6-0.7 mm.

Example: on the sash we were wrong by 3 mm, and by the same amount in the opposite direction on the frame. You will get a slit about 4 mm wide, clearly visible, and pulling from it will also be noticeable.

We fix the leveled part of the window with nails, carefully driving them into the shield close to the sash, and check the old pins. If everyone is sitting as expected, approximately in the middle of the corner, carefully drill them out with a larger diameter drill, but not more than 0.6 of the width of a rectangular one, excluding the grooves, quarters and bevels of the solid wood (see Fig. Lower part). If there is a “left”, which is not uncommon, see the picture above, we work like this:

• We dig in the old one along the contour with 3-4 drops of superglue, this is necessary so that it does not fall out during drilling and the hole does not go away.
• We are waiting for 5-10 minutes for the glue to set firmly in the depth, it flows far away.
• We drill a correctly positioned hole.
• With a saw tape, pushing it into the slots between the mustache of the connection, we saw through the old dowel.

After the fastening holes in all the details of the window are drilled, the frames are disassembled into parts and cleaned of old paint.

Removing paint

There are two ways to remove old paint from windows: thermal and chemical. For cleaning with heat treatment, an industrial hair dryer is used. Do not try to do it for everyday use: it will not give 200-250 degrees. And do not set the temperature on the hair dryer to more than 250 - you will get a low-temperature, without charring, burn the wood, and it will lose its qualities. The same will happen if you heat with a blowtorch or propane torch.

The part to be cleaned is placed on the priest and warmed up in sections of 25-30 cm. When the paint starts to bubble, clean it off, like plasticine, with a boot knife or palette knife. A spatula with a straight blade, even a sharpened one, either cuts into wood or slips over paint.

Video: thermal paint removal

With "chemistry" paint is removed with a plastic bag and kerosene (solvent or nitro-solvents are not suitable, they will spoil the tree):

• Each piece of wood is wrapped in rags.
• The whole bunch, how much will fit into the neck of the bag, is thrust into it; there should be a margin for tying the bag.
• Water the wrapped pieces of wood with 0.5 liters of kerosene.
• The bag is tied tightly, left for a day or more, until the paint softens.
• Take out the parts one at a time and brush off the paint with the same tool.

Notes:

1. Chemical softening of paint is a smelly and fire hazardous operation. It should be carried out on the balcony or on the street.
2. If you take the entire bundle out of the bag at once, the kerosene will quickly evaporate and the paint will harden again.

In both cases, if it is supposed to paint the window with paint, it is not necessary to pick out small particles of paint in the recesses: it will only be easier to putty and sand. If the window goes under the stain with varnish, then you will have to work hard on them.

Impregnation

The next stage of work is impregnation with linseed oil. The purpose is to prevent the rot embryos killed by heat or chemistry from developing again, and to restore the structure of old wood as much as possible. Hastily, for several years before the next repair, the details are impregnated with a brush from all sides 3-4 times; subsequent - after complete absorption of the previous one. Before the subsequent impregnation, the surface of the part must not be tack-free.

For centuries, they are impregnated in a special device: a piece of steel pipe 100-120 mm welded from one end. It is installed obliquely at about 30 degrees; it is advisable to use a welded trestle from the corner so that the pipe does not roll. The operation is carried out only in the open air, away from residential buildings: in the yard, in the country. It is imperative to have a sackcloth or fiberglass mat on hand: drying oil can flare up. You need to know this in advance, and not be scared, but immediately throw a felt mat over the pipe neck. It goes out - you can continue.

Linseed oil is poured into the pipe 3/4 and heated from below with a hairdryer or a stream of hot air from an electric stove. As the drying oil heats up, it will begin to bubble: moisture evaporates from it and air comes out. If the smell of drying oil suddenly increased sharply - move the heater aside, wait a little and continue heating. When the bubbles are gone, you can start the impregnation.

Warning: never look directly into the mouth of the pipe or bend over it! You need to follow the drying oil sideways.

For impregnation, you need a hook made of steel wire 5-6 mm with a pointed end. The part is placed in a pipe and heated with a hook for 3-5 minutes, then it is hooked with the tip, removed and placed on the table to dry. Do not grab the parts with your hands, even with gloves: hot drying oil with a temperature of over 130 degrees will drain from them.

Parts from the most ordinary pine treated in this way serve in the open air for 150 years or more, and painted with oil paint require repainting no more than once every 15 years.

Restore windows

Dowels and wedges

Before taking on the actual restoration of wooden windows, you need to prepare new pins and wedges for them. The pins are drilled with a core drill from any straight-layered industrial wood. You need to drill CROSS the FIBERS, as shown in the figure. Hastily planed "chopiki" frames will not last long. For each dowel, it is necessary to prepare in advance a wedge with a length of its diameter, a width of 5-7 mm and a thickness of 1-1.5 mm. The best wedges are oak and mountain ash. The diameter of the dowel is 0.5-0.7 mm larger than the diameter of the mounting hole for it.

Outward alignment

The leveled frame is assembled, while not fixing anything, on the slipway; it must be covered with plastic wrap in advance. They are aligned diagonally, as before, and are also fixed with nails driven in from the sides. Drill through the mounting holes again.

Next, the frame is disassembled, the mustache and grooves of the joints are coated with liquid nails, quickly (the glue hardens in a few minutes) is collected in a slipway, just as quickly checked with diagonals and, if required, trimmed. When the glue sets, they start fixing with pins. It is impossible to postpone it for another day: in order for the pins to hold the frame properly, the glue joint during their installation must still be sufficiently plastic.

The pins are lightly greased with liquid nails and hammered into the holes with a mallet. THE NAGEL FIBERS MUST BE LOCATED CROSS THE WOOD FIBERS! This is an indispensable condition for a reliable connection, see fig. Finally, the dowels are fixed with wedges on both sides, driving them ON the FIBERS of the dowel, also see the figure.

The question may arise: what about the counterpart? The fibers of the nail will go along its fibers.

The fact is that the reciprocal part, after driving the wedges into the pins, will fall on the “waist” of the pins and will not split. And a wedge driven into the dowel even before the glue has completely hardened will give, in addition to the lateral one, some vertical force, so that the entire joint will be compressed and the glue will gain strength under pressure. After 3 days of exposure at +25 degrees, such a frame, dropped at an angle from a height of a meter, remains rectangular.

Fitting the frame and sashes

The rectangularity along the outer edge does not guarantee the straightness of the mounting openings: the tree may dry out unevenly. Therefore, the next stage of work is the alignment of the inner quarters.

First, we adjust the window frame and vents in the corresponding sash: we put the frame on the priest and check the quarters in turn with a plumb line. If there is at least one exactly perpendicular, we take it as a base. If not, we will have to suffer with the square and the bus until we find the most "left" corner. From it, then from other corners with a pencil along the flight tire, we beat off the lines of the new opening and a zenzub with a chisel, and at the corners with a chisel we select the excess (in the figure - on the left).

Further, in the same way, we check and align the flaps OUTSIDE. Then we lay the sashes next to each other and align them in height and width, as shown in the figure on the right. Quarters under the glass can not be touched: both for the view and for the reliability of the window, their slight distortion is insignificant. But if you get a taste and want to align them too, it won't hurt.

After the described operations, the sashes together will be smaller than the frame landing opening. To fit into the frame (it is into it, otherwise the window will not close later!) We put strips of plywood in quarters on liquid nails. After the glue hardens, we bring it to accuracy with a chisel and a chisel, select the recesses for the fittings. Then we grab them in 15-25 cm with small carnations, sinking their caps with a doboinik. Then we saturate the linings with drying oil with a 40 mm flute

Putty and sanding

Putty for small grooves can be prepared by yourself by mixing sawdust on liquid nails in a ratio of 3: 1 by volume. You need to knead quickly, in small portions, and just as quickly putty: the glue sets in a few minutes. Finally, sand the frame with sandpaper.

Reminder: do not forget to refit the drips before puttingty, on liquid nails and then on regular ones.

Painting

For decades, wooden windows have been painted with oil paint. Most the best option: Purchase a thickly grated paint and mix it yourself in linseed or "wood" (walnut) oil, as artists do. "Natural" ready-made oil paints on sale most often turn out to be based on synthetic or mineral oil thinners, which are much inferior in durability to traditional ones. Glyphthal and pentaphthalic enamels are poorly suited: after 5 years the window will require repainting, and unnecessary layers of paint spoil the look.

When purchasing a thickened paint, make sure the pigment is mineral and not synthetic. White can be tested by rubbing a pinch between the fingers: there should be no slippery sensation and the powder should stick to the fingers. The synthetic pigment almost completely flies off when shaken off.

Advice: the main parts of the paint are pigment, filler (dry) and thinner. If you want the windows to shine for a very long time, choose a paint filled with marble flour (microcarbonate).

Knead oil paint in a wide flat dish: pour it in a bunch, make a hole in its top, pour oil there and knead. The oil is added in small portions to the desired thickness. For windows, you need the consistency of liquid sour cream.

Video: an example of painting a wooden window

Finishing

Finishing "by nature" in the described technology is made with stains. Stains change the tone of the wood and accentuate its texture: an ordinary commercial pine after treatment with a suitable stain can be almost indistinguishable in appearance from bog oak, pandana or mahogany. It is advisable to experiment on old chocks before decorative finishing: choose the tone and degree of dilution.

Stain finishing has additional advantages: coloring composition penetrates deeply, coloring the wood in the mass, so that after sanding, in case of repair, you will not have to paint. In addition, the stain increases the wood's resistance to decay and UV rays.

Completes decorative trim its windows are varnished with transparent or tinted acrylic varnish, fittings and glass installation. The only competitor to acrylic in terms of quality is Japanese tung varnish, but not every oligarch can afford it.

Glazing

Before installing the glasses into the inner corners of the quarters under them, squeeze out aquarium silicone glue over a thin sausage. After fixing the glasses with carnations, remove the silicone drips with a cloth moistened with vinegar. It is not necessary to wipe the cloves dry from the silicone: it will protect them from corrosion. After the silicone hardens (2 mm / day), we seal the glass with putty, as usual: chalk mixed with drying oil. If the glasses are to be fixed with glazing beads, they must be pre-processed, like other wooden parts, and painted.

Outcome

Old technology for the restoration of wooden windows, supplemented modern materials, works wonders. A completely shabby window, which has been in the hands of a skillful and neat craftsman, looks no worse than a plastic one, and retains everything beneficial features wood.

Window frame putty is a material for surface restoration prior to painting. The product protects the building base from changes in temperature, moisture and ultraviolet radiation. If you choose the right material, window repairs will last for a long time.

Professionals identify several types of material. The product is classified depending on the readiness for application, composition, setting speed and shade.

According to the degree of readiness

According to the degree of readiness, putty for window frames is divided into several types:

• Dry composition. To prepare such a repair solution, the product is diluted with water and stirred. The main advantage of the material is its affordable price, but when working with the product, amateurs have difficulties.
• Ready composition. It is a pasty product that is used after opening the package and stirring.
• Sealant. It is a foam material that is ready to use. The tool is used to ensure the sealing of windows in hard-to-reach places. The advantage is ease of use. When using it, there will be no problems even for beginners in the construction business.

By composition

Types of putty by composition:

• Solvent based materials. This putty was invented first. The rest of the tools were made by analogy with this material. The main advantage is increased strength. The disadvantage is a pungent smell.
• Water based product. The material is non-toxic, does not have a strong odor, has elasticity, so it is easy to apply. The product removes defects and irregularities, reliably adheres to wood and plastic. Such a putty for windows has moisture resistance and resistance to temperature changes, therefore, the tool is used for outdoor work.
• Oil putty. The product is made on the basis of oil and solvents. Designed for wooden bases for outdoor use. The material protects the surface from mechanical damage and unfavorable conditions environment.
• Acrylic product. This is one of the most demanded materials. The popularity is due to the affordable cost and high performance. The product is elastic, does not shrink and protects the tree from temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation and moisture.
• Nitro putty. It is a material that is made on the basis of cellulose, solvents and plasticizers.

Drying speed

According to the speed of hardening, putties are divided into quick-drying and conventional formulations. The first species hardens in a few hours. This allows the completion of the window restoration work in one day. Conventional formulations harden for three days or more. The advantage of such materials is their increased strength. The disadvantage is that restoration work cannot be continued until the product has completely solidified, that is, the repair of the window will take several days.

By shade

Classification of putty for windows by color:

• white material - such a tool is advised to choose for a classic light coloring;
• gray product (as in the photo below) - suitable for any paint;
• color agent - it is recommended to use it if the topcoat is done with colored paint.

How to prepare a putty yourself?

Putty is prepared with your own hands. The main thing is to know the recipes for the material.

Rosin based

To prepare such a tool you will need:

• rosin - 2 parts;
• lard - 1 part;
• chalk - 10 parts.

Place the components in a metal container and stir. Put the product in a water bath. While stirring continuously, reheat the material. Do not remove from the water bath until the product has acquired a liquid consistency. After cooling, use the composition as directed.

Linseed oil based

To make linseed oil based putty, take:

• linseed oil - 7 parts;
• umber (mineral brown pigment from clay) - 4 parts;
• yellow wax - 4 parts;
• chalk - 5.5 parts;
• white lead - 11 parts.

In a metal container of suitable size, mix the flaxseed oil and umber. Put the product in a water bath. While stirring the product, add the rest of the ingredients. Keep the product in a water bath until it forms a liquid consistency, until the lumps disappear. Cool the material and use it as directed.

Material application technology

Professionals know how to putty windows. If a beginner performs the restoration of frames on his own, he needs to familiarize himself with the rules of work.

Application instructions:

• Puttying of windows begins with the dismantling of the old coating. Remove paint and putty. Then dust and degrease the surface. Sand and remove dust again.
• Primer the frame. Apply the product in two layers, taking a break to dry.
• Apply putty. Carefully seal the gaps between the frame and the glass. For this, it is recommended to use a sealant.
• Wait until dry and apply a second coat of material. This is the final stage of window frames putty. When the composition hardens, complete the finish.

How to putty a window sill?

If we talk about how to putty the window sill, then the work is carried out in the same way as the puttying of frames. The first thing they do is remove the old coating. For this, it is recommended to use a construction hair dryer or a special liquid. This will speed up the process of removing old paint. Then sand the surface with P 60 or P 80 sanding paper. Sweep away dust and degrease the windowsill. Next, apply the primer in two coats. Let the product dry after each treatment. Fill in the surface imperfections with putty. After that, apply the composition to the surface. Level the base with a wide trowel and remove excess material. Stop work for 24 hours. Sand the surface with P 100 or P 120 sandpaper. Remove dust and apply two coats of primer. After the product has set, paint the window sill.

Do-it-yourself restoration and repair of old wooden windows is an exercise for the patient. But it allows, firstly, to save money, and secondly, to get great looking and well-kept warm windows. After all, along the way with staining, you can lay insulation, which guarantees the absence of drafts. You will get windows according to the so-called "Swedish technology".

Inspection and determination of the scope of work

You meticulously inspect the sash of the window and the frame, open it several times, see if there are any gaps and how large they are. Assess the condition of the wood: are there any rotten areas, if any, what are their sizes.

The first stage is dismantling and assessing the condition of the windows

The first step is to establish whether it is possible to restore the affected areas or whether a rotten fragment requires a complete replacement. If replacement is unavoidable, there are only two options: if you know how to work with wood - you cut out the required part yourself, if not - you order it from the joiner. All other window defects can be eliminated by any person with "straight" hands with their own hands.

Tools and materials

Since we are repairing old windows, we will need to remove the old paint: restoration without this is almost impossible. For this you will need:

• a building hair dryer or a thick plastic bag, rags and 0.5 liters of pure kerosene;
• spatulas, wide knife (boot).

In the future, you will need to repair damage, level the frame and sashes, etc. The set of tools here is more extensive, but even if you buy them, it will not take very much money, and you can make them even less if you rent them.

We collect the necessary tools

• hacksaw, jigsaw, hacksaw blades;
• plane, chisels, sampling (if any - excellent);
• drill and drills of different diameters;
• dense wood for wedges and dowels;
• drying oil for impregnation or ready-made primers;
• putty on wood;
• rubber sealing cord;
• new fittings: hinges, latches;
• large, preferably carpentry square, building level, slope;
• glazing beads and silicone sealant.

For impregnation, you may need either factory compounds and a brush, a metal vessel, drying oil, an electric stove or a heat gun.

Need some special tools and a large flat surface

And the last stage of restoration will be staining. This stage is very important - the appearance and service life until the next repair depends on the quality of the work.

• set of brushes;
• paint for windows or stain and varnish, if you want to preserve the natural look of wood.

The procedure for the restoration of wooden windows

It all starts with dismantling. The sashes are removed first, then the frame itself. Can I not remove the window frame? It is possible only in one case, if it is in perfect condition: there is no damage to the wood, all angles are exactly 90 o and no defects. But it will be more difficult to work. In all other cases, the dismantling is complete.

Glasses are carefully removed from the doors, the old putty is peeled off, all the carnations are given. Fittings are removed from all parts: they must be replaced. Now the external ebb tides are carefully removed: the nails with which they were attached are probably almost crumbling.

The first step is to remove the glass

Removing the paint

You can use a building hair dryer, setting the temperature to 200-250 o C. It is better not to set it anymore: wood loses most of its properties during high-temperature processing. For the same reason, it is undesirable to use a blowtorch: even without charring, you will break the structure of the wood and it will collapse faster.

Remove paint from the window, heating the surface in a small area. Bubbles quickly appear on the surface, and you need to pry them off with a wide knife, scraper or spatula. It is better to find an old spatula with a rounded blade already: the new one often "cuts" into the wood, and then it will take a long time to grind. In general, it is more convenient to work with a wide knife, which is used by shoemakers.

Restoration wooden door starts by removing old paint or varnish

The second method is chemical softening. There is modern formulations to soften paint, but how they affect the structure of the wood is a question. You can use the old, proven method: treat with kerosene. You will need a large bag of dense plastic film(necessarily whole, without a single hole), old cotton rags (they should not fade) and kerosene. It is undesirable to use other solvents - they again affect the structure of wood fibers.

Wrap the frame with strips of fabric, put it in a bag (its height should be enough for the neck to be tied). Pour out the kerosene and tie the bag tightly. After a day, you can remove the paint. But do not take everything out at once - while they are processing one part, the paint will harden on the others. We took out one part, tied the bag, removed the paint. They took up the next one.

It is better to work with any chemically active preparations with gloves.

When removing paint in shallow depressions and cracks, the paint can not be removed: less need to putty and level. But this is only if you paint the window. If you plan to varnish, you will have to do everything scrupulously. But for the first experience, it is better to process under paint: easier and faster.

Align the frame

For leveling, a fairly large, absolutely flat surface will be needed. This can be a table (but the surface is necessarily flat), a workbench, a sheet of plywood laid on stools, etc.

The first is to align the frame. Laying and setting the corners. They should be exactly 90 o. We inspect the contour: the strips should be even. At this stage, we remove the places affected by rot or replace the completely rotten parts of the frame with freshly made ones. (How to process a rotten area is written a little below).

Leveling and sorting out the frame

We check the planks in vertical and horizontal planes, remove the excess with a plane. In the corners we earn extra money with chisels. The result should be perfectly straight, level surfaces. Check the corners again, measure and align the diagonals, fasten the frame at the corners with nails. Then we take a skin or a sander (belt) and process until smooth.

We restore the sashes

We disassemble the connections of the shutters. They are assembled on pins - small round wooden hairpins. For windows that have served for more than a decade, they must be replaced. It is easier not to knock them out (you can do it this way), but drill with a drill of a smaller diameter. Then remove the remnants and clean the hole for the installation of a new retainer.

If necessary, the sash can be disassembled completely into planks. Clean the joints, align the planks, cut off all unnecessary with a plane, having earned some extra work where you need the corners. In general, put everything in order.

This is an old dowel. It is advisable to remove it and put a new one in its place.

The next stage is the assembly of the sashes. Fold the processed boards, measure the diagonals and corners. Now a tricky operation: you need to remove the strips, coat the grooves and joints with glue and install them back. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the sash does not warp. After setting the bar in place until the glue has seized, set the corners and diagonals.

After assembly, for greater reliability, we will install new pins. Let's make them first. We take a core drill with an inner diameter of 5-7 mm. Drill cylinders from a block of dense wood across the fibers (exactly across). These will be pins. The diameter of the stud should be slightly larger than the drilled hole in the frame (about 0.5 mm). So it will sit tightly and hold the structure well.

Do not use planed chopiks instead of dowels: the window will have to be repaired again in a couple of years. Cut across the grain, they will hold their shape for at least 10 years.

Wedges are cut from a piece of oak or mountain ash. Their width is 5-7 mm: depending on the diameter of the prepared pins, and their thickness is 1.5-2 mm. They are then driven along the fibers, wedging the hairpin and achieving excellent fixation.

If, as a result of the bulkhead, the hole becomes uneven, level it with a file, or with a drill. But try not to make it wider. Coat the seat with wood glue (it must be of good quality), drive in the pins. They fit well with the glue. Then use a screwdriver to make a groove along the fibers, into which insert the cut wedge, and hammer it in. Cut off the excess with a sharp knife so that everything is even.

Wooden pins will securely hold the sash parts together

So we change all connections, constantly controlling the geometry of the sashes. After everything is assembled, the flaps should be quite stiff, but do not wobble them too much: the glue has not yet dried.

After all operations, the sash can be of different heights. We level them so that they are the same inside and out. Now we take the frame and put the sashes into it. They are definitely less than necessary. To make them sit tightly, glue strips of plywood of suitable thickness and width onto the frame on liquid nails.

All parts (and the frame) are laid on a flat surface, the load is placed on them. You can lay it on a flat floor, on top of several boards, and below them a solid load: about 100 kg. Leave to dry and level for two or three days.

After the glue has dried, we bring the frames to the norm, where necessary, by sanding and making notches. We mark the places for fastening the fittings, we make recesses for it.

Installing the seal

How to lay a seal in windows using Swedish technology, the shapes of these seals are described in detail in the video.

Impregnation

There are various ready-made impregnations. How to use them is described in the instructions. There is nothing complicated in the process: under certain conditions, you need to apply the composition and wait until it dries. There can be several treatments, one or different compositions.

But there are masters who are sure that the polymers included in the impregnation deteriorate thermal insulation properties wood. They work only and exclusively with drying oil. Moreover, there are two processing methods: cold and hot.

With the cold method, the heated drying oil is applied with a brush to the frame and sash of the window. Leave until completely absorbed and dry, when the surface becomes non-sticky to the touch. The treatment is repeated four times. Such processing guarantees the excellent condition of wood and paintwork for 5 years. After you have to repaint.

Linseed oil impregnation is a great way to preserve wood

During hot processing, drying oil is heated in a vessel to high temperatures. This occupation is fire hazardous - drying oil can flare up. Therefore, we first prepare a piece of tarpaulin, felt, etc., with which it will be possible to cover the vessel. It is better to heat it on a heat gun or hot air from an electric stove (not on a stove, but over it): sometimes it is necessary to quickly remove the heat source in order to avoid a fire. Because the fire is not suitable.

The parts are dipped into the drying oil heated to a boil for a few minutes

After some time, the drying oil begins to bubble: air, moisture comes out. There is one important point: when the bubbles are already going, it happens that the smell of drying oil increases sharply. The heat source must be removed quickly. If you hesitate, the vapors will flare up, a mat will come in handy. If you have time in time, it will pass without incidents. Heating can be continued after a few minutes. When the bubbles are gone, you can saturate the parts.

The part is immersed in a heated drying oil for 3-5 minutes. At the same time, it is convenient to work with a crochet: they can hold it and pull it out conveniently. After pulling it out, carefully put it on a clean place to dry. Do not grasp the parts with your hands. Even in mittens: hot linseed oil will soak them in an instant, and burn your hands. The burn will be serious: the temperature is about 130 o C.

Craftsmen say that after such processing, wood can stand even on the street for decades. With good paint, its renewal will be required no earlier than 10-15 years. Like this.

Putty and sandpaper

Now the frames are rigid and fear nothing. Now we putty and sand them. For significant damage, we use a coarse filler with sawdust. For finishing thinner and softer. If you will paint the window white, take white putties. They will not be visible through the paint.

The technique is simple: fill cracks and crevices with putty, then remove the excess. Metal spatulas of small width are used more often. But in some places it is more convenient to work with rubber: they are designed for grouting when laying tiles, but they are also convenient to work with putty.

The use of technology will increase the speed of work

After the composition has dried, take a medium-grain sandpaper (sander) and clean off the excess, if any. At the same time, go through the entire frame, bringing everything back to normal, leveling the irregularities. Then, with fine-grain sandpaper, everything is leveled to an ideal (as far as possible) state.

Dyeing

You choose the type of paint yourself, based on your preferences. The only thing you can advise is whether to take glossy or semi-glossy ones. They retain their color for a long time. This is especially true for white paints. Surfaces painted with matte white paint quickly turn gray: they have a porous structure, which gives them a “matte finish”. These pores are clogged with microscopic dust particles, which give a grayish tint. Therefore, for perfectly white windows, take a gloss or semi-gloss.

The first layer is a primer. This is one part of paint diluted with two parts of a suitable solvent. After the primer is dry, the base paint can be applied. There will be several layers, so everything will be painted over.

Apply the paint in thin layers in different directions

Do not take a lot of paint on the brush: there will be drips, which are not easy to deal with. You dip, squeeze, rub well. You need to move from top to bottom without changing direction. Only in this way will the layer be even. Apply the first layer by brushing from left to right, the second from top to bottom, and the third layer from right to left.

Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one is completely dry. If after the first application of the paint there are streaks and irregularities, after the paint has dried, take the sandpaper and clean them. Just don't rub it down to wood. Make the second layer more accurate, but here you can still sand it a little. The third should be flawless. Once the paint is dry, your DIY refurbished window can be reattached.

Glazing

Installing glass is not the most difficult thing, but it is responsible. Prepare a transparent moisture-proof and frost-proof sealant. You coat the seat with it, insert the glass. On the other hand, they are pressed with glazing beads. They are also treated with sandpaper, impregnated and painted. Then they coat the glass with a sealant around the perimeter, press the glazing beads and fix them with small carnations.

Replacing rotted sections of a wooden frame

If the site is rotten, you can help grief in two ways:

• cover with a special reinforced putty, recreating the required shape;
• remove the damaged area by inserting a patch in its place.

A surefire way to eliminate rot is to cut out the damaged area

The second option would be more correct in terms of durability: here it is possible to remove the entire infected area, ensuring that the rot does not spread further. The technique is simple. Saw out the affected area, grabbing some healthy wood. Cut out a piece of exactly the same shape. Coat the joints with wood glue, insert the patch, level it, if necessary, fix it, leave it until the glue is completely dry.

After that, it is necessary to putty the seam, sand and paint. Everything. The window frame (or sash) has been restored.

But it is not always possible (or willing) to cut out a damaged piece of wood. Then you can use an epoxy putty with reinforcing fiber. Once dry, it is tough enough to keep its shape.

The first step is to separate everything that can be removed. All the dust and rot. We blow off the dust, where possible, we get to a healthy tree. If you plan to use the restored frame for a long time, treatment with antiseptic impregnations is necessary: ​​to prevent the spread of rot as much as possible.

The decayed section of the window frame can be restored with a filler with reinforcing fiber

After that, the composition is applied to the damaged part with a spatula. Putties of this type have a rather thick consistency, you can mold any configuration. Give a shape close to the desired one, but slightly larger in size: after drying, it will be possible to sand and level the level. It takes about a day to dry, but the exact time depends on the composition, temperature and humidity of the air. After sanding and leveling, it remains only to paint the window. Then nothing will be noticeable at all.

Outcomes

You do not need any super-abilities to repair and restore wooden windows with your own hands. Not the most sophisticated tools are required, accuracy, patience and a fairly decent amount of time.

Modern wooden window structures, with proper installation and their subsequent timely repair, will serve you for many years. Why is there a need to repair them?

Any paint and varnish coating under the influence of the sun and moisture ceases to protect the window from destruction over time. Therefore, timely painting will prevent the destruction of wood, the occurrence of fungus, rot and drying out. Cracks and chips may also appear on the window frame; repair and restoration of the window will solve this problem.

New wooden windows are heavy due to the glass units installed in them. Therefore, fittings and mechanisms are constantly overloaded. All mechanisms and fittings need timely adjustment and lubrication. Otherwise, they do not perform their functions, the sashes sag and begin to cling to the frame, the mechanisms hardly open and close the window, cracks appear due to the poor fit of the seal and over time they completely fail.

Seals on modern windows are made of rubber and have their own service life. During operation, the rubber seal loses its elasticity, as a result of which it does not fit tightly, and gaps are formed that worsen heat and noise insulation. The gasket must be replaced with a better quality one (Swedish silicone gasket EvroStrip).

• Old wooden windows

Masters of the Teplo-Oknodel company service and repair old wooden windows and doors in Moscow and the Moscow region. In Moscow houses, apartments built from the 70s to the 90s, the so-called "Finnish type" windows were installed. These are double-bound windows with tie-down bolts, when opened when washed inside they resemble a book. In older houses, windows of the "Stalinist type" were installed. These are windows with a separate binding and a frame, they are closed with latches, most often they have a transom.

Both in the online store and in the retail stores of Leroy Merlin, enamels for windows and doors can be purchased by both individuals and organizations. These products have all the necessary certificates and are distinguished by excellent technical and operational characteristics. We purchase varnishes and enamels in significant quantities directly from their manufacturers, which allows us to sell them at the most attractive prices. In addition, at the request of buyers, delivery of these goods is organized.

Leroy Merlin offers a wide selection of goods at low prices for residents of Moscow, as well as cities of the Moscow region: Balashikha, Podolsk, Khimki, Korolev, Mytishchi, Lyubertsy, Krasnogorsk, Elektrostal, Kolomna, Odintsovo, Domodedovo, Serpukhov, Shchelkovo, Orekhovo-Zuevo, Ramenskoye , Dolgoprudny, Zhukovsky, Pushkino, Reutov, Sergiev Posad, Voskresensk, Lobnya, Klin, Ivanteevka, Dubna, Yegoryevsk, Chekhov, Dmitrov, Vidnoe, Stupino, Pavlovsky Posad, Naro-Fominsk, Fryazino, Lytkarino, Dzerzhinsky and Solnechnogorsk. You can order the products you need online with delivery to all of these cities, or visit one of our retailers.

Preparation of windows for painting, putty and sanding of windows

We have already talked about how to remove paint from windows. Now let's consider the next stage of preparing windows for painting, namely, putty and sanding of wooden windows. This is a very important stage in the repair, since the appearance of the window frames depends on the quality of its implementation.

After all, how can you like windows with cracked frames and cracked window sills? It is unlikely, since it looks very unsightly. Therefore, it is worth learning how to level the surface of already cleaned windows. As a rule, this is done using a window putty, a brush-flute, trowels and a sanding cloth.

After the old paint has been removed, the window has been treated with antifungal agents and dried, it may appear to be paintable. However, this is not always the case, but only in the case of perfectly flat and smooth slopes of the opening, window sill and frame. This is rare and mostly only on new windows. In addition, the new window also needs to be prepared for painting. And there is no need to talk about old wooden frames, which in some dwellings are often older than the owners.

Properties of epoxy putty

Epoxy putties belong to two-component formulations... They are based on petroleum resin, pigment additives and organic solvents in the form of special plasticizers. The result is durable defect filler resistant to deformation and destruction of various nature... The popularity of epoxy putty for wood is largely due to its organic interaction with the structure of this material. It forms a reliable connection that is resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For this reason, it is often used in outdoor work before painting.

Unlike many post-processing agents, such formulations do not have a strong chemical odor and do not shrink... But the coating lends itself to grinding. Determining which fillers are best for material preparation exterior decoration for further painting, epoxies should be considered first. They are not only characterized by resistance to external influences, but also act as an excellent base for the final decorative design. True, such coatings harden for a long time - it may be required up to 24 hours for complete drying.

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Slope leveling technology

Now about how to properly putty the slopes on the windows.

The technology depends on the degree of curvature, the presence or absence of serious defects on the surface. If they are already plastered, then you just have to smooth the plane with a finishing putty to get rid of small potholes, scratches, cracks and roughness.

Take for example a more complex case where the slopes require alignment. In this case, the main work is done with a starting putty, which can be applied with a sufficiently thick layer, several layers can be applied.

It is important. Before proceeding with the finishing, make sure that the ambient temperature is not lower than +10 degrees, if you are using a gypsum mixture, and not lower than +5 degrees, if a cement

The instructions for the production of work are as follows:

• Measure the width and height of the window opening with a tape measure, cut pieces of the required size from the perforated corners.
• Using a drill with a mixer attachment, prepare a putty solution. Its amount should be such that you will be able to use before losing its viability. This parameter is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
• Check with the building level the verticality and horizontalness of the corresponding corners formed by the slopes with the wall. Put putty on them, making the layer thicker where the level requires it.
• Glue the perforated corner onto the fresh putty by pressing it into the mortar. Correct the position of the corner vertically and horizontally with the help of a level, pressing it deeper into the solution where necessary.

Remove excess mixture squeezed out through the perforation holes with a spatula

• Let the mortar set and harden so as not to move the corners during the putty process.
• Using a wide spatula, apply a layer of starting filler to the slope, pressing it to the surface at an angle of about 30 degrees and leading from the bottom up. Then remove the excess crosswise from the window to the wall. Output at the same time even corner with a wall.

Photo of the main process

• One layer of putty should be no more than 5-6 mm. If more layers are required to level and eliminate surface defects, they are applied as many as required, but each must be thoroughly dried before the next.

Advice. To prevent a thick layer of putty from peeling off over time, it can be reinforced with plastic or fiberglass mesh.

• After finishing the leveling, wait until the putty has dried and with a sandpaper fixed on a grater, rub the surface, removing traces from the trowel and sagging.
• Finish the work by smoothing the plane with a thin, no more than 1 mm, layer of finishing putty. After it dries and grouting with a thin sandpaper, the slopes can be painted.

The final stage of finishing

Finishers recommend that owners of plastic windows add another intermediate stage to this set of works. After leveling the slope, it is necessary to draw a thin groove with a spatula in the corner, between it and window frame, and when the solution is dry, fill it with sealant.

It has good elasticity and will act as a shock absorber when the plastic expands on hot days.

Enamels for windows and doors in Moscow

Painting doors and windows is one of those procedures that are almost always performed during cosmetic repair in residential, office, retail premises, at the facilities of the social and cultural sphere. To improve the appearance of door and window structures, reliably protect them from the adverse effects of moisture, ultraviolet radiation, minor mechanical damage, it is necessary to use high-quality enamels. They are presented in a wide range in Leroy Merlin stores.

You can choose and buy various types of enamels for windows and doors from us:

• On a water, water-dispersed and alkyd basis;
• Designed for painting wood, plastic and other materials;
• For outdoor and internal works;
• Glossy and semi-glossy.

One of the main distinctive features of all these paints and varnishes is that they are environmentally friendly materials that are safe for the environment and human health. All enamels for windows and doors offered by Leroy Merlin are easily applied to the painted surfaces using brushes and rollers, dry quickly and at the same time practically do not emit substances with a pungent and unpleasant odor into the atmosphere.

These compositions have excellent adhesion to the materials for which they are intended to be painted, and therefore, subject to the application technology, they hold very firmly, do not exfoliate and do not "bubble". The enamels for windows and doors that we offer have excellent water-repellent properties, do not fade even after intense and prolonged exposure to sunlight. In addition, the paint and varnish layer that they form has a fairly high mechanical strength.

The order of work for every taste

There are several operations associated with wood putty.

DIY Recipes

First, you can cook it yourself.

Here are two of the most readily available recipes:

1. The first is rosin-based:

• in a container, mix 2 parts of rosin, 1 part of lard and 10 parts of chalk;
• melt until a completely liquid mass is obtained, stirring constantly;
• on completion, let it cool.

Useful advice! We advise you to test this putty on rosin, it will be especially good when you want to remove it. She is easily removed by the usual hot water... Most interestingly, the removed mixture can be applied again.

1. The second is based on linseed oil:

• Here we are already mixing 7 parts of linseed oil, 4 parts of umber;
• we also begin to melt with constant stirring;
• during the heating process, you will first need to add 4 parts of yellow wax,
• then 5.5 parts of chalk and
• 11 parts of white lead;
• when the mass takes on a stable liquid form without lumps, heating stops;
• let the putty cool down again.

Before painting, window putty requires sanding, although its quality and the tools used still depend on you.

Application works

Instructions for using the putty with your own hands, in whatever form it is supplied, are as follows:

• first, and this is an indispensable condition, remove all the old paint and putty;
• then thoroughly clean the entire surface, grind and clean again from all dust residues, let the surface dry completely;
• we proceed to applying the first layer of coarse-grained putty to remove all significant irregularities;
• we wait until the surface is dry;
• proceeds to apply already finishing fine-grained;
• when the surface is completely dry, it is sanded again.

Putting windows in this way removes many of the problems of hard-to-reach places.

Useful advice! We advise you to turn to the so-called high-temperature putty, which is indispensable when working outdoors. Such a putty can withstand the temperature range from -40 to +250 degrees, without losing its qualities.

Preparing the filler before application

The quality of the solution directly affects the quality of work. It is necessary to determine the correct proportion of hardener in the base composition of the glass fiber filler. Manufacturers recommend using electronic scales for this, but for simple garage repairs, this is an unlikely device. It is possible to determine the required 3% percent of the hardener approximately, but there is a high probability of error.

There is a little trick:

• choose the required amount of fiberglass putty;
• we divide the received amount into two equal slides, which will be 50% of the total volume;
• we again divide one of the slides in half, 25% remains;
• we continue to divide, now we get two slides of 12.5% ​​each;
• now we divide one of the slides into four equal parts, the volume of any of which will be equal to the required 3%.

After determining the required amount of hardener, mix the resulting solution until a uniform pink tint appears. It is necessary to thoroughly stir the resulting mixture, since the solvent will constantly strive to the surface. As a result, a poorly mixed solution or an incorrectly selected amount of hardener will either show up as spots on the car's painting, or on the drying time of the putty.

Not worth cooking a large number of solution in advance, since the hardening period of a high-quality filler with fiberglass is about ten minutes. The temperature in the room where the repair is being carried out should not be extremely low or high. The optimum value is from 18 to 25 degrees Celsius.

Restoration of old windows with putty

In this article I will tell you how, using a spatula or palette knife and ordinary wood putty, to restore an old window, giving it an updated look. This method is applicable if the glass on your window is fixed with putty or small glazing beads that are no longer suitable for use.

Tools and materials

First, we need:

1. Acrylic putty for wood, preferably white. This is easiest to paint in the desired color, but even without that, most of the windows are white.
2. A palette knife or small spatula, a flat wide knife will also do.
3. New glasses, if the old ones are broken or damaged by corrosion (black spots, grooves and scratches, and other hard-hitting things).
4. Sandpaper or a hair dryer to remove old paint from the window. You can, of course, do without this, but in my opinion, a newly painted window looks much more beautiful, not to mention the impact of the external environment on poorly painted wood.
5. Wood paint, which we will paint the window with.

Let's start repairing!

First, sand the frame and remove with a knife or spatula the remnants of the old putty and glazing beads, if there are nails that hold the glass, remove them too. In our example, we changed one of the glasses to a new one, since the previous one was broken. You can do without this if the glass is in order. Take out the old glass and wash it or replace it with a new one.

We prepare the seat for the new glass, remove the holes in the frame, you can also grease the decayed parts of the wood with putty, the main thing is not to overdo it - the excess putty will be squeezed out by the glass and may remain on it if it is not noticed in time, and it will be more difficult to insert the glass. By the way, there is a good article about the restoration of old windows.

New glass can be cut by yourself, usually 4mm thick glass is used in windows. But if you do not have the skills to cut glass, you can contact the nearest glass workshop, where they will cut glass to the desired size for you inexpensively, do not forget to accurately measure the frame!

We insert a new or washed glass into place.

Be careful, the edges of the glasses are very sharp, it is better to use gloves, and not as we did

We fix the installed glass with small nails or immediately with putty, if it is small. Apply the putty evenly to the frame, while pressing the glass.

The occupied part of the glass with the putty should be about 5 mm. Usually, this is just the distance to the end of the frame from the back side.

The putty dries quickly enough, so we process each side of the glass completely, and only then move on to the next.

When we have completely missed one side, it is necessary to remove the excess and give evenness to our putty. Until the putty is dry, it can be easily removed from glass and wood.

Work through one side with a trowel or knife, first leveling the seam and then removing any excess from the glass and frame.

First we apply a layer of putty, the process is described in detail here

Then we align it.

So, the installation of the glass is completed, all four sides of the glass are smeared with putty and aligned, you can proceed to the rest of the glasses, if any.

When the putty is dry, you can paint our window, depending on the paint you choose, this process may differ, but usually it does not cause difficulties. So, without special costs and with minimal labor efforts, we gave our old window a decent look and extended the life yet for one year.

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Preparation for work

To do everything correctly, efficiently and reliably, you need to fulfill several conditions: choose the right putty, prepare the surface, create conditions in the room suitable for carrying out this type of work.

Choice of putty and other materials

The leveling mixture is selected in accordance with the field of application and the scale of work:

• External slopes can only be putty with water- and frost-resistant cement compositions. All types of facade putty are suitable.

Choose your outdoor materials carefully

• The mixture for interior work is selected depending on the indoor microclimate. If there is a constant high humidity(bath, sauna, etc.), then the putty must be cement or polymer. For dry rooms, you can use gypsum and lime-gypsum compositions.
• If a thick layer of mortar is required for leveling, buy both a finishing and starting putty. Or a versatile blend.

Advice. In the case of the initial removal of slopes in a new building, they are shaped with plaster solutions, and only then a leveling putty is used.

• Relatively flat slopes, without significant defects, can be repaired using only finishing putty.

In addition to the putty, you will need a deep penetration primer to improve adhesion of the leveling compound to the substrate, silicone sealant, perforated corners to strengthen the outer corners.

Advice. Buy a primer with antifungal additives. It will prevent mold from growing on slopes.

Any traces of mold that already exist must also be removed before priming.

The set of tools is standard: wide and narrow stainless steel spatulas, a level, a paint knife, and a brush or roller for priming and subsequent painting.

Surface preparation

Before puttingty the slopes, you need to clean the work surface well - remove the old paint, the falling off plaster, sweep away the dust, cut off the mounting foam protruding from the window block.

Advice. You need to cut off the foam not flush with the frame, but a little deeper. After that, the cut is treated with a sealant to protect the foam from condensation, which reduces its thermal insulation properties.

It is convenient to cut the foam with a thin stationery knife

If the window sill has not yet been installed, it is advisable to do this before finishing the window slopes. so that later you do not have to re-level the damaged areas. In addition, the work performed in the correct sequence will allow you to immediately qualitatively seal up the joints between the slopes and the window sill.

The next stage of preparation is to protect the window frame and sill from dirt and damage during the puttying process. Plastic and wooden structures can be pasted over with masking tape, and surfaces with an unstable coating, which can come off when the adhesive tape (for example, MDF) is removed, can be covered with foil or paper.

The final chord of the preparatory process is the priming of the entire work surface. The primer must strengthen the base, increase its adhesion properties, and prevent the appearance of mold due to possible excessive moisture.

It is better not to save on the primer. You don't need a lot of it, so its price will not affect the amount of expenses too much. But the quality and reliability of the slopes will be high.

You can proceed directly to the putty only after the soil has completely dried. But it is also not worth tightening, otherwise dust will settle on the surface.

Renovation of old wooden windows, partial and complete restoration of a window

You can't go anywhere without putty when working on wooden frames.

This is the only way to truly protect the surface from future external influences and prepare it for painting. This indisputable truth will not be too lazy to repeat for you and the additional video in this article.

• How to put putty with your own hands: dilute, make, knead, clean, calculate, glue baguettes, proportions, video instructions, photo and price

  The final stage of rough finishing of all planes of the dwelling most often involves the use of powder or pasty materials, which make it possible to obtain ...

• Putty for chipboard: video instructions for do-it-yourself puttying, is it possible to putty and what, photo

  Even if the surface of the chipboard is sanded by the factory method, it must still be putty before painting or varnishing ....

• How to level the walls with putty: remove, remove, use, what consistency should be, do-it-yourself video instructions for installation, photo and price

  In apartments, finishing with the use of liquid mixtures is carried out very often, which means that it deserves close attention. Many owners of the city ...

How to putty slopes

By the way, this silicone can be easily removed, in case of bad experience, with a rag and solvent.

Coating with varnish or paint

New frames can be varnished immediately after paint removal and sanding to wood. The wood must be pre-primed to avoid mold and rot. Buy varnish for external use. It is better to cover old frames with oil paint.

Installation of fittings

Then you need to screw the fittings (preferably new) to the sashes. The sashes are mounted back into the opening. Make sure the locks close well and the latches work smoothly.

Repairing a wooden window will save you a lot of money. Plus, your room won't lose the natural and vibrant look you and your guests are used to.

DIY wooden window repair

. Prices for wooden window repairs are quite biting. Take, for example, the procedure for "adjusting the window sash to free play", which averages $ 17 per piece. And if you invest in a huge number of others to repair a wooden structure, then we can say with confidence that you have to pay the master a rather large sum, but working with your own does not require extra costs, and today we will try to prove it to you.

Quite often we have to meet wooden windows installed in pre-Soviet times in houses and apartments. Although these wooden windows were installed a couple of decades ago, they still have all the necessary functions to protect the apartment (houses) from harsh climatic conditions... The truth is often not complete without painting or pasting with paper (cotton wool) during cold weather. But still, painting alone is not enough for the window, as before, to serve you faithfully. Moreover, the service of the window must be of high quality, otherwise its window will have to be replaced with a more practical plastic one, or a new wooden one. Therefore, it is simply necessary to carry out a major overhaul of the old wooden window. The word overhaul includes the repair of all the flaws in the window due to which the secret of his age is revealed.

Therefore, if you still do not want to part with the frame because of natural material, in today's article we will tell you how to do your own window restoration.

The choice of certain tools necessary for the restoration of a wooden window directly depends on the state of the window frame. Therefore, it is possible that you will not need all the equipment listed below.

Tools and materials needed to repair wooden windows with your own hands:

• Building hair dryer (to remove the old paint layer from the frame);
• A set of spatulas of different sizes (for removing a layer of old paint and applying putty);
• Sealant (to glue the glass);
• A set of brushes (for painting frames);
• A set of sanding papers P220-240 and P120 for cleaning wood and putty;
• A hammer;
• Nails (20 mm long for glazing beads);
• Chisel;
• Pliers;
• Ticks;
• Electric jigsaw or hacksaw for wood;
• Penknife;
• Wood paint (preferably glossy, since it washes better);
• Wooden glazing beads (if you plan to re-glaze the window frame);
• Masking tape;
• Coarse putty for wood;
• Fine-grained finishing putty for wood;
• Deep penetration primer.

Now a little more detail about the last three materials from the above list.

Coarse wood putty

Coarse wood putty is used to seal various sizes of material defects. Also, coarse-grained wood putty is used in the restoration of doors and many other joinery.

Fine-grained finishing putty for wood

Fine-grained finishing putty for wood is often used for internal "concrete" in apartments (houses). However, this material is also suitable for filling wooden windows. However, the choice of the color of the putty must be approached wisely. For the repair of wooden windows, it is advisable to purchase a putty exactly white... Of course, there can be no talk of a combination with the color of natural wood. But beige material is used only when you plan to varnish the window frame. And if the window frame is in a very poor condition, it is necessary to carry out filling and painting with a material of exactly white color. In this case, the visibility of defects is reduced to almost zero.

Deep penetration primer

It is a deep primer that is widely used in the decoration of an apartment (house). Priming a wooden window is necessary for better adhesion of the putty to the paint.

Preparatory work

Deciding to repair a wooden window is only half the battle, it is necessary to determine what the scope of work will be. To do this, inspect the wooden window for visible defects and damage. It is possible that you have to not only complete the windows, but also completely replace the glass. Also, in most cases, you cannot do without overhaul frames. This work is necessary because in places where the paint has peeled off, the material could well rot. The older the window, the more visible defects you will find. Therefore, the beginning of the repair of a wooden window is to calculate the required amount for the material.

After completing the preparatory work, you will finally decide for yourself whether to repair the old wooden window when you can put a new wooden or plastic window for the same money.

What is the material

General information

Like any other putties, polyester compounds with fiberglass have a pasty consistency. They are made on the basis of unsaturated modified polyesters.

By themselves, these resins are quite hard, therefore, to give them the necessary viscosity and plasticity, styrene is added to them. As you might guess, the fiberglass in the composition of these putties serves as a reinforcing filler. It increases the strength of the putty and improves some of its other properties, which will be discussed below.

Glass fiber increases the strength of the putty and prevents cracking

The solvent in polyester putties is very harmful to health. Therefore, when working with the composition in an enclosed space, it is necessary to take safety measures - put on a respirator and ensure ventilation of the room.

Polyester putties are sold as two component formulations. Those. before use, the putty must be mixed with a hardener.

Properties

Like any other building materials, the putty in question has its advantages and disadvantages. Below are its main positive and negative qualities.

Dignity:

• The possibility of applying in a thick layer. The thickness of one layer can be 5-8 mm;
• No shrinkage. Even when applied in a thick layer, the coating practically does not shrink, unlike acrylic putty;

Fiberglass filler can be used to seal through holes

• Does not crack. The glass fiber contained in the composition prevents the coating from cracking;
• Strength. Thanks to this, it is allowed to use fiberglass putty not only for sealing mother-in-law and dents, but also through holes;
• Resistant to vibrations and vibrations. Thanks to this, this putty is common among motorists;

Due to its vibration resistance, polyester putty is often used for car repairs

• Freezes quickly. The setting time is on average about 20-30 minutes. As a rule, you can start sanding already 15 minutes after applying the coating;
• Weather resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture, low temperatures, or ultraviolet radiation.

Flaws:

• Toxicity. As I said above, the solvent in the coating is harmful to health;
• Set quickly... The composition is suitable for application for 4-8 minutes, respectively, you need to work with it yourself quickly. This usually causes some problems for beginners.

Characteristics

As an example, consider the characteristics of Novol Fiber two-component putty.