Garden sculptures from plants: a decent replacement to Topiara. How to make artificial grass for crafts with your own hands
When creating a diora industry or a beautiful stand for figurines, artificial grass is often used.
I will try to tell and show how I make grass from plumbing flax in a 35th scale. Tools and materials that I need:
* Actually Santechle himself. When buying in a shopping store it is worth choosing that flax, which has a homogeneous structure without major components.
* Supergel. It is the supergel, and not superciles.
* Green / herbal acrylic paint /, white, brown color. I use Akan.
* Diluent for paint. I use technical alcohol. (Smells badly, but quickly dries).
* Airbrush. Here without him, unfortunately, in no way.
* Latex gloves. To do not paint hands when staining flax.
* Dental probe. Or big sewing needle. Just a dentist's tool is very convenient in circulation.
* Scissors and tweezers.
* Well, the base of the diorama / vignette. Here, everyone does in their own way. It is important that the supergel is reliably fixed flax on the surface of the base.
Luck must be carefully "fluffy." Otherwise, when painting everything stops
Color, better from the airbrush, in three or four shades of green. Just add different shades to the basic green paint.
We take painted flax and cut it with scissors on various segments in length, approximately 1.5-2.5 cm. - at the height of the future grass. Cut in such a way all the painted flax ... and unpainted too!
Mix each bunch of sliced \u200b\u200bflax. Hands, here you need not to regret the effort. Then "cross" them between them, gradually adding other shades to the main color. Along the way, we remove such mercies "blade" from "kneading". After receiving a homogeneous mass, we add chopped flax to it. By itself, stirring. We get a haystone.
I pull out the total heap of the bunch of greens and the scissors align it on the one hand. We apply a bit of the supergel on the cropped part of the beam. Now we sit on our grass to the soil in small portions. Then take a large sewing needle or something like it. We introduce it in one or two millimeters from the ground in the grass. And we begin to cut forward too thick piglets from the base. We delete too much. Then, by the way, it can be reused.
True what is too sticking out. The photo shows that our grass is very inhomogeneous in height. It turns out in the yard grass. On the grass - "in firewood", it is for a scale :).
The grass is better to plant when the idea, for which it is here, is quite defined, since the grass from Plothell is hard. And something to put in it is vitally will not succeed. But, in principle, you can already after disembarking it in line with the idea and location of what should be in it / on it ...
I will be glad if my vision of the embodiment of grass from Santechnna in miniature will be interesting for you and will be useful when building diorama or vignette.
Master class on creating grass from technical flax for decorating crafts
The grass is better to "disembark" when the idea is defined, as the grass from Plothell is hard. And something is quite difficult to plant something. Already after disembarking, it is possible to discharge it in line with the idea and location of what should be in it / on it ...
Tools and materials that will need:
Sanitary lion. When buying in a shopping store it is worth choosing that flax, which has a homogeneous structure without major components.
Supergel. It is the supergel, and not superciles.
Acrylic paint green (herbal), white, brown. I use Akan.
Diluent for paint. I use technical alcohol. (Smells badly, but quickly dries).
Aerograph. Here without him, unfortunately, in no way.
Latex gloves. To do not paint hands when staining flax.
Dental probe. Or a large sewing needle. Just a dentist's tool is very convenient in circulation.
Scissors and tweezers.
Well, the base of the diorama / vignette. Everyone does it in its own way. It is important that the supergel is reliably fixed flax on the surface of the base.
Lyon must carefully "fluff." Otherwise, when painting everything stops. Color from the airbrush in three or four shades of green. Just add different shades to the basic green paint.
We take painted flax and cut it with scissors on various segments in length, approximately 1.5-2.5 cm. - at the height of the future grass. Cut in this way the whole painted flax ... and unpainted too!.
Mix each bunch of sliced \u200b\u200bflax. Then mix them between themselves, gradually adding other shades to the main color.
Along we, we remove the fucking "blades" from the "knead".
After receiving a homogeneous mass, we add chopped flax to it. By itself, stirring. We get this stack of hay.
I pull out the total heap of the bunch of greens and the scissors align it on the one hand. We apply a bit of the supergel on the cropped part of the beam.
Now we sit on our grass to the soil in small portions. Then take a large sewing needle or something like it. We introduce it in one or two millimeters from the ground in the grass.
And we begin to cut forward too thick piglets from the base. We delete too much. Then, by the way, it can be reused.
True what is too sticking out. The photo shows that our grass is very inhomogeneous in height.
It turns out in the yard grass. On the grass - "in firewood".
A source
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s30893898787.Mirtesen.ru.
Topiaria from artificial flowers: from grass, photo with their own hands, master class how to make, video |
Topiaria from artificial flowers will help to perfectly decorate the interior of Topiaria from artificial flowers are distinguished by sophistication and versatility, because the composition you can create at any time of year. Of course, in order to get a really realistic picture, you will have to work pretty, having reviewed no master class! However, the final result will make out of memory all the difficulties of the workflow, forcing it only to enjoy the final result.
Similar crafts are very modern ideawho acquired its relevance relatively recently. Certain with the task will be able to any person, even if the dilettant in the questions of Hand Made. The main thing is to clearly observe the proportions and the basic principle of work.
To date, Topiaria from artificial grass is gaining increasingly popularity.
The tree itself can perform several destinations at once:
- Become an excellent gift for both adults and for their kids.
- Act as decor for photo shoots.
- Decorate the current interior.
By the way, Topiary from the grass is better to make a slightly more in height than the traditional flower composition. It is explained by this in that in the increased size it will look for such a composition at times, it will be more convincing and, if you wish it, can even look like a real tree! However, unlike his living equivalent, Topiaria do not have to water, feed fertilizers, etc.
The form of composition does not change: everything is also a rounded village in an exquisite pot. Of course, it takes quite a long time to go to the crown, because gluing small fragments of artificial grass sometimes happens very tasty and monotonously! But you need to patience! The end result in any case will justify the efforts.
Topicia from artificial colors with their own hands for beginners
Topicia from perfect artificial flowers begins with the manufacture of the "tree" and the selection for him the right pot. The "plant" itself consists of a crumpled paper, put on a wooden wand - everything is very simple and concise. It will be much more difficult to decorate the product in the future. One of the most responsible questions is the choice and decor of the pot playing in this tandem is not a latter role.
In order to create Topiaria with their own hands, it is necessary to prepare and acquire material
And it is possible to achieve harmony due to the following primary materials:
- Ribbons, beads and decorative mesh.
- Embroidery "planted" on canvas.
- Textile.
- Hand painted with acrylic paints.
- Twine.
- Burlap with adding decor elements.
Recently, the so-called Shebbi style is particularly popularity, which is characterized by the scinting simplicity of lines and some negligence. The pot must be painted with monophonic paint, specifically leaving losses and shortfastness. If it is not possible to achieve this in the process of work, you can use emery paper that the gaze will solve all the problems.
By installing the village in a pot, you need to take care that it is reliably streamlined. You can achieve this bay in the dishes of concrete, and leaving the design to seek about a day. Now you can not doubt: the toopiary will be reliably standing still and will withstand the load that future decor will lay on it.
How to make topiary from artificial flowers with your own hands: Useful tips
Any Master - Topiary Manufacturing Class makes this process available to everyone: parents, children, teachers, students. The main thing is the desire to concentrate attention and, ultimately, get a really stunning result.
It should be noted that the Topiary will be able to do not only adult, but even a child
For these purposes, you will need:
- Artificial flowers and grass.
- Gypsum.
- Glue.
- Flower pot.
- Decor elements.
- Coffee beans.
- Newspapers or thin paper.
In this case, all selected elements may vary depending on the wishes of the performer. The main thing is that none of them get out of the general ensemble.
Preparing artificial flowers to work, it is necessary to remove the legs with the root, processing the cut sandpaper. Thus, it is possible to ensure a more dense fitting of the material to the base. In order for the composition to look more realistic, the crown of the tree can be wrapped with artificial grass that gives her a more natural look. As a "highlight" of the compositions can be small birds, cozy with a green skinny.
Topiary will be exactly what the master sees him! And this is the main advantage of such work!
Master class Topiaria from artificial flowers: What is important
Deciding to produce topicia with your own hands, most of the masters take as a basis of a video - a lesson where all the nuances are displayed in an accessible form. And what is the disappointment when ultimately it turns out not exactly the result! To be upset in this case, it is completely pointless, because in a different way does not mean bad.
Topiaria is art, so do not limit yourself - the flight of the fantasy should not be limit
It is important to understand that creativity, as well as the handwriting of each person, will significantly differ among themselves. That is why it is not worth blindly to imitate the methods shown. It is necessary to do something of your own, however, taking into account the small nuances that this process is satisfactorily impregnated.
In addition, seeing the result of an experienced master, you can immediately submit your picture, to understand what exactly I want to see at the end of work. Any master class is the basis that opens the door to the world of real creativity.
That is why, starting work, should keep such a Talmud in my head:
- Master class is just a sketch that can be improved.
- There are no errors here, so you can do anything.
- Even experienced professionals can be wrong.
In order to create an exquisite toopiary need no more than a day. Artificial grass, flowers or decor elements equally behave in caring hands. Especially if the composition is done as a good or near man.
rk-ekvator.ru.
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The remaining space is filled with lawn grass seeds. Seeds need to be pouring to where you plan to sprout grass.
Filling out a stocking completely, we sew it from above.
Next, from the resulting ball start to form a grassributor. To do this, we use previously prepared strips of their stockhing. Nothing terrible, if you get an unprecedented animal, so even more interesting.
We proceed to paint and decorating, there is no rules, let the will of fantasy.
Here such travders turned out from me.
And so the sprouted herbalist looks like.
Such an unusual toy will bring a lot of positive emotions. And also a grass tray is a very unusual gift for friends and relatives. "
Look also: podelki-doma.ru.
Half grass trains
Significantly expanding the horizon of the child and developing a sense of responsibility in it - toys made by their own hands will help.
Such an exercise will be a lively benefit on nature, in kindergarten and school.
Ribs, or as they are also called, eckels, recently gained popularity. For the first time they appeared in Soviet times and decorated with many kitchens.
What is a grasshopper
The grass tracker is a small tissue figure in the form of a little man or an animal, which, after irrigation, grows a small pot of grass. Regularly by watering its "pet" can be obtained in the house a real green corner that does not require special care.
The finished trains are in the assortment of many stores, but much more interesting to offer children to make it with their own hands. To create ekoleshka, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:
- base for the grass
- grass seeds;
- needle and threads;
- sawdust;
- plate or pallet.
As the basis, you can use any blowing materials - old sock, gauze, a wide bandage or a kapron stocking. Grass seeds should be selected in accordance with their own preferences. So, for example, if you want to make a grassist, who will delight the eyes of the greens for several years, you can buy seeds of perennial lawn grass.
If there are pets, it is possible to fall asleep seeds of special grass for them in a grass trailer.
Such a delicacy will have to do cats, dogs, guinea pigs and even parrots. Seeds of such grass in pet stores are sold.
If you can not find the seeds of grass, you can fall asleep in the travators any cereal - rye, wheat, oats or barley. It is preliminarily desirable to move the grains from husks and straws.
Sawdust can be purchased at any pet store - they will serve as the main filler for the toy. To create one person, you will need only a few perspective of sawdust, it should be considered when buying.
If desired, in stores for needlework, you can buy eyes and other details that will revive the ecocole.
Step-by-step instruction for making a grass
1. Stockings or sock should be cut with scissors in such a way that it turns out a small sleeve up to 10-15 centimeters long. If march or bandage is used, they must be sewed to form a similar sleeve. Immediately you need to cut several thin strips of matter - they will be useful as tires. The most durable ties are obtained from kapron tights.
2. One end of the stocking should be tied up with an earlier stronger. After that, the workpiece must be turned inside out so that it turns out a peculiar bag by the node inward.
3. If the grassorus will be a vertically located toy, first of all you should fall asleep seeds on the bottom of the bag, and after sawdust. The main thing is that the seeds are in the upper part of the craft.
If the grassorus is located horizontally (for example, you can make an hedling or a turtle from stockhing), then you first follow the squeak of sawdust and only then on one side, which will be at the top, to plunder seeds. It is advisable to pre-dock the seeds for 5-6 hours.
4. The sawdust should be slightly moistened - so they are better rambling and form a form. After filling, the top edge is also firmly tied. It is very important to do strong nodes - so that in the future the contents did not fall out.
5. At this stage, you need to turn on the fantasy and come up with a grassrorist appearance. So, depending on the location of the seed, it is possible to make a hedgehog, a frog, a tiger, a bear, a dog or a caterpillar.
In order to make a head, paws or torso segments, you need to give up a filled pouch in a specific place.
Ideas for creativity can be drawn from other people's work or invent anything else, it is not necessary to make an existing animal, it may turn out to be an aliens or some miracle yudo.
With the help of ties, you can form not only the head, but also spout, ears, horns or tail.
In the process of creating toys, it should periodically check it on stability.
6. In order for the grassorrobe to come to life, he needs to stick eyes and mouth. As an eye, you can use both billets from stores for creativity and the most ordinary buttons. Also, eyes can be made of cardboard or felt, cutting a light oval for the glazing itself and dark for pupil.
7. Add brightness handicraft, if you paint the surface with acrylic paints. For this, the gouache and watercolor will not fit, since they are very dirty hands and wash off after water getting down. Acrylic shows resistance to water, and the toy will stay beautiful for a long time.
8. At the final stage you need a traizer to be pretty soaked with water. In order for grass sprout, a toy must be kept in a capacity with water at least 2-3 hours. Well, if the water will be slightly heated.
If it is assumed to create several travders, you can spend a small experiment. Thus, one figure must be soaked in conventional water, and a second aqueous solution that stimulates the growth of plants. Further, it remains with the child to observe the growth of grass on the crafts and make the appropriate conclusions.
Care for a grassland
You need to install a ready-made toy or a special tray - it is necessary that it does not flow to the surrounding items, and delayed in the stand. Further, the ecolenechka must be put in any light place (for example, a windowsill or balcony) and wait for the moment when the first sprouts will appear.
Periodically, you need to monitor the level of humidity of the fabric, enveloping grass. From time to time it must be made it with water from the watering can or from the sprayer. Children will be happy to care for their new pet and watch the result of their works.
The first herbs sprouts will appear on the surface of the toy in 2 days.
If it allows the age and the level of child perfection, you can make a diary of observations. So, in a notebook or ordinary leaf, you need to read the fields of the table and celebrate three times a day, how much the stalks grow. As the grass grows, the child can also take photos of his crafts.
When the grass grows greatly and starts to disintegrate in different directions, you can captivate a child with a haircut of a grassist. Scissors or simply hands need to remove the tips of the sprouts, leaving up to 2/3 of their length. So you can experiment with various species Stregging - half-fox, Iroquois and all that will allow fantasy.
Selecting blades into two parts and tapping each bunny, you can make a grass tray. By the way, the haircut favorably affects the toy - the removal of long stems gives the grass with new forces, and with time the appearance of the grass will only improve.
If there are pets in the house, "haircut" they can do on their own - for them such grass is very useful, it contains many vitamins inaccessible to animals living in the apartment.
If you have to leave the travlomus one for a few days, in order to prevent his drying, after watering the toy should be wrapped with a polyethylene package. It will help reduce evaporation and save valuable moisture.
profymama.com.
Making quilling grass on photo-video lesson
Many novice needlewomen, examining the photo with the works of quilling masters, are wondering: how to make such beautiful crafts yourself? Naturally, various MK, tutorials of the art of making flowers, animal figures, portraits and landscapes, come to the rescue. But the most important questions of beginners relate to the basics of needlework as a whole, and not complex compositions. For example, what makes the background for the painting or how to make it imitating grass.
Today we will understand exactly how it is done in the technique of quilling grass master class, which is suitable even for young children, and adults will be able to come up with new ones, their own own ideas.
Several ideas for creating grass from paper
Necessary materials and tools
In order to make it yourself beautiful grass in addition to your paper colors, it is enough to prepare the necessary materials and then step by step following the proposed instructions. What do you need:
- quilling strips of green shades;
- scissors;
- pVA glue;
- toothpick or tool for queening, pencil or thin brush.
Quilling strips can be chopped from green or ordinary white paper, then there will also be a long line, pencil and cutter. With the help of a sharp cutter you can independently make strips of any width.
Additional materials:
- paint, markers or kokes of different shades of green;
- sponge or sponge for paint.
These items will be needed to those who make quilling strips on their own. Color can be painted different ways - After some experiments with different coloring substances, you can pick up exactly those that will suit your work. For example, in the picture, rains for queening were painted: Emerald acrylic paint, salad acrylic paint, two colors markers, a kel water based (From left to right, respectively). As seen, best result It turned out exactly when using a koller.
There are no detailed descriptions and schemes in this lesson - only the main ideas for the embodiment of ideas. The grass can be completely any shape, thickness and colors, depending on your preferences and fantasies.
Fluffy grass from a wide quilling strip
Cut a wide paper strip from the whole sheet. Its width is the height of the grass, but also need to leave a small distance from the bottom so that the sliced \u200b\u200bfringe does not fall apart.
With the help of such a template - a strip of thick paper or cardboard - cut a long fringe. This will help make it the length of the same, and also do not cut chance your quilling striped ahead of time.
With a toothpick or tool for queening, slightly twisted the resulting herb in different directions. It is necessary to do it carefully, so as not to tear thin stripes and do not remember them. Cut the desired length, we glue the workpiece on the card or panel and we are straightening unevenly lying blasting fingers.
The thinner you get to cut the fringe, the fluffy and more realistic will look the grass.
Fantasy grass
With the help of repeated pencil or tassel strips, you can create here such curls. They will fit well into various paintings and crafts in the style of fantasy. The tip of the strip, which will be in the upper part of the blade, you need to trim at an angle, narrowing it. You can add sketches with such curls with simple elements in the quilling technique that will serve as a leaflets. unusual Plants.
Tight openwork blades for large paintings
Such grass can be used in bulk quilling works, or where the focus should not be on too small details. Such grass will look beautiful even without flowers: you can put on it god's cows Or other insects performed in the Quilling technique. For this lesson you will need a gear comb or hair scallop.
The end of the strip is bent on the third coaster of the ridge and is flashed with glue. Next, the hinges are thrown on the teeth through one.
You need to throw five loops.
Now we take the strip of another shade and do it all the same, but the end is fixed on the second tooth and loops do one more.
There must be partners.
The resulting billets are lubricated with glue along the edges and glued together with each other.
Such a fun grass will decorate any panel, for example, in a cartoon style. And how to do in the same technique of animals and bulk flowers, novice masters can learn from the video and photo speakers, where the subtleties of papers are stacking.
Video: loop quilling using the ridge
Examples of sketches for work
vishivashka.ru.
We will work with grass - story in miniature
By modeling models, many over time come to the thought that it is precisely the overall quality of work. Completely agree with them. Moreover, it is gaining courage to argue that only from the careful study of the whole little things on the stand on your work, depends on how the viewers will take it - as a piece of real life, or as a bright (even if even a very highly painted) toy.It's no secret that VIM initially began to exist as creating volume illustrations for reference books by military history. And that is why many of those who are seriously engaged in this hobby give in their works such a value of an exacting compliance with historical realities. But here, in my opinion, there is some underwater stone to which many fall. Any miniature, made even as reliably as possible, but standing on a simple smooth stand, in a visual perception loses a lot. Does it goes about: if, for example, a figure is assembled and painted only with one goal - to serve as a technical manual that can be considered. Literally from all sides, and the main goal is the maximum historical conformity of the prototype, then such work is indeed, it is quite possible to leave on a very primitive "conditional" stand. But, if, in addition to the miniature, a lot of work has been carried out on its "revival" (toning, pollution, Distending, etc.), if the author is trying to convey certain emotions to us, then there is already the absence of the same carefully worked and logically justified stand, looks, in my opinion, as a lack of something very important.
And vice versa - if the surrounding entourage is carefully thought out and scrupulously completed, then the miniature itself will look completely different in it.
Now let's go to a more practical conversation, which, I hope, will be interesting not only to beginners, but also those who have long made their first steps in models.
There are several ways to manufacture miniature flora. For this purpose: - Ready sets of various firms,
Dried fragments of real colors and plants - made with their own hands from undergraduated means (paper, foil, palable, pile, etc.).
But, in his experience, I will say - the most realistic and qualitative view has a stand on which the combination of these three ways was applied.
Another very important moment - Here, as nowhere is the principle: "happens or fast, or well." Therefore, in no hurry to fall asleep the ground with a thick layer of the monotonous-identical "railway" grass, a terrible cutting foam or planting it with dense beams of the same shredded bristle. Believe me, such vegetation is similar to the real nature only in your own imagination.
"Salla" his thickets, it is better to do this without hurrying and very thoughtfully, literally in blade. At the same time, it is necessary to constantly evaluate the entire composition "In general", as in its plan color solvingAnd in terms of the diversity of the invoice and size of your "seedlings". The "landing" of herbs should occur in a certain order, as if tiers - from the highest, the lowest. And the sceneness of the work is from the center of the stand, to its edges (if another option is not specified by the plot). You can still break down from the center to the edges, if there are some buildings or structures on the stand. In this case, the highest and large plants are better spaced next to these objects.
And one more compulsory rule is needed "accents". Mnogy of you probably noticed that, for example, the same grass on the street only with a fluid look looks uniform (in height and color). But it is worth looking more attention to how it becomes clearly seen that in a common mass, higher, and larger individuals are always distinguished. Yes, and the color of green vegetation is also not so monotonous, as it seems to us. It is necessary to do it in your works. Only then will it look like not as painted staring bristles, but as a piece of real nature. And as such "accents" can be: - individual high blades, - clearly "readable" in the total mass of the leaves of individual plants - separately growing flowers, - Fragments of the landscape, differing in color (more cough, more "juicy", etc.)
More about what it is worth mentioning, this is that, with the help of one of the "herbs" to get away from some monotony and monotony on the stand is very difficult. The introduction of additional "filling" will help us to defeat it. To do this, the Earth should appear sticks, large stones and fallen leaves. We must comply with the same terms - when installing it is not to rush and constantly evaluate general form, harmony and logicality of the landscape of the landscape. But do not forget here about the alignment of "accents". And if sticks and major stones are already in themselves such accents, then with false foliage you need to work. In its common, sufficiently shapeless mass, separate leaves of the usual form should be well released, with clearly defined edges.
As an example, I would like to bring one of my long-time (54 mm).
Phased it looked like this: 1. Installation on the stand of a pre-painted fence (metallic, from the set of the figure itself) .2. Imitation of soil (earth and sand of various fractions + PVA) .3. Manufacture of stone (modeling from a millpot + painting) .4. Pray and tinted land according to the selected plot, landscape and season. "Landing" and painting the grass (a mixture of artificial materials and dried natural "herbarium"). 6 We glue the fallen leaves (seeds of plants, sliced \u200b\u200bdry grass, ready-made paper leaves of Kamizukuri).
As you can see, here I tried to comply with all the rules listed above. As a result, it seems to me, it turned out quite realistic. And in any case, it is better than just a smooth earth, or a monophonic carpet of neatly trimmed bristles.
And a couple of words about technology ... if the figure or some kind of large object, interfere with the "plant" vegetation, then it can be done so (in this case 1:35): the grass is fixed on separate pieces of cardboard, they process it, and paint, and After that, the finished fragments place on a shared stand, in pre-prepared places. It is done with large plants.
..................................................
And one more good argument that says that micro-gardening is needed. If the figure is done very well, then carefully developed vegetation around it, perfectly complement the overall picture of quality work. And if the miniature did not work out, then the surrounding landscape is soft Disassembled these shortcomings, pulling out some of the audience attention.
This is me all to the fact that in my opinion in models there are no secondary little things! Because none of the audience considers our miniatures from afar. After the first "covering" glance, each relieves immediately approach the "smell distance". And here it will immediately be seen that it actually stands on the stand - a beautiful doll on a green panel, or a small living person on real grass.
(The text used photos from http://www.diorama.ru/authors)
skl-m.LiveJournal.com
Garden sculptures from plants with their own hands
Original alternative to Topiara
The topire is the art of a cutting of decorative bushes and trees to give them unusual forms that decorate landscape design Plot. The weighty drawback of Topiara is that the plants need to be carefully monitored, and the haircut itself is only an experienced specialist, whose work is far from cheap.
It should also be noted that it will take at least 3-5 years to create a beautiful topium form, which is often the main reason for the search for alternatives.
Whatever your garden is decorated with plants sculptures, you can do without topiara, using a special mold, increasing lawn grass or short-sided flowers.
Green sculpture from mesh and lawn
Now we will look at how to make a landscaped sculpture in the garden with their own hands!
Materials and tools for creating sculptures
In order to make a garden sculpture with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
Fertile soil
Special nutritional mix for lawn grass
Seeds low rise plants either lawn grass
Steel wire, a thickness of more than 8 mm
Wire fastening material (welding or knitting wire)
Polypropylene or steel grid (you can use a smaller section)
From the tools we will need watering can with water, trowel and welding machine (if the wire welding) will be used).
Once all materials and tools are prepared, you can immediately move to the creation of a garden sculpture.
Creating a garden sculpture
The process of creating sculptures from plants is not difficult, but you have a certain time. That the information is easily perceived, provide all the technology in the form of step by step instructions.
Step 1 - Choose the shape of the sculpture
First you need to decide on the shape of a garden sculpture. When choosing a form, we recommend that the general landscape design of the plot and garden style is considered.
To date, the most popular forms are:
Right geometric shapes (ball, pyramid, cube)
Fairy-tale heroes (for example, gnomes)
Animals (lions, elephants, hippos, cats)
Forming Lisica 
Matching dog 
Modeka Turtle After the shape of the sculpture is selected, go to the process itself.
Step 2 - Create a design
Using steel wire, create a frame for future sculpture. It is recommended to fasten the wire welding, so the design will be more stable and durable. If for any reason welding machine No, with the help of knitting wire, it is possible to quite reliably fix the structural elements.
Step 3 - prepare the body of sculpture
We have a fertile soil mixed with a nutrient mixture. The exact proportion of mixing elements is indicated on the package with the nutrient mixture.
In order for the body of the sculpture to be viscous and disappeared immediately after creating a sculpture, add a little straw to the mixture, in order to smoem the soil with water.
Step 4 - strengthen the sculpture of the grid
Steel grid will protect the soil from rash and make the sculpture design more stable. If your figure will be installed vertically, then wrap the mesh with its lower part. In the event that the figure is horizontal (for example, lying on the Earth mermaid), it is necessary to strengthen the sides of the sculpture.
Step 5 - I fall asleep the ground in the frame
Using moistened soil with straw, carefully fall asleep the finished mixture into the wire frame. The mixture should not be too liquid, otherwise the soil will begin to leak through the cells.
To remove the excess soil and give the sculpture beautiful forms, use the trowel.
The body of the garden figure should be tightly naked, the emptiness should not be, otherwise after sizing the soil, the figure will lose its shape.
Step 6 - Seed Sowing
As soon as the figure from the Earth is created, we turn to the final stage - sowing the seeds of the lawn grass or low-layer plants.
What you understood the essence of the combination Let us give such an example: when creating a lion figure, the mane is recommended to create out of flowers, and the rest of the body from the lawn.
Green Leo in the Garden
Step 7 - Sculpture Care
Before the time lawn grass And the flowers block the sculpture body completely, it is necessary to water the object completely. We draw your attention to the fact that when watering a garden figure caution should be in the first place. It is recommended to water the figure from the watering can, etc. The water from the hose can blur the soil due to high pressure.
That's the whole process of creating a garden figure from plants with their own hands. As you see, there is nothing complicated, the main thing is to accurately perform each of the stages.
It should be noted that the additional stability of the sculpture will give root system Plants, which will overcome all the soil over time!
Example of a ready-made garden sculpture from a plant
Using the grass from artificial materials is endless. This is an excellent soil for creative feats as lovers to create original crafts and novice design designers.
Artificial grass in the interior
As a rule, indoors such material usually use for modern original approaches to design. Therefore, artificial decorative grass Most often found in projects where styles like minimalism or the Scandinavian modern direction are selected.
As for directly from the place where this material is used, it is most often small original sculptures or a replacement of traditional textiles. Just imagine that on the balcony instead of the litter you have a soft green lawn. The children's rooms are also decorated, where you need a soft coating.
There are more original use of artificial grass for the decor of the apartment. Do not limit yourself and replace your usual textiles and plastic with this material. For example, the original pillows from the grass, some even the headboard bed is decorated. Moreover, the pillows can be small on the sofa or huge as a recreation area. It is important that the selected glue for artificial grass was suitable for indoor use. As a rule, manufacturers recommend so-called polyurethane types of glue for artificial grass. They fix it reliably and are not dangerous to human health.
Artificial grass for crafts
If the design large interior items and decor can cost an impudent, then the decoration of the mid-size room is quite mad, make it possible. For example, a high artificial grass for the decor in interesting vases is already the most excellent decoration for the shelves higher in dark corners. And if you use it to create topiaries or simply original compositions, it turns out perfectly.
Artificial decorative grass is perfect for Christmas or Easter compositions with a rabbit, will become the basis for wall panels, and it is possible to use it. Even the usual wall of the grass will look very original. Artificial grass for the decor is best fit into rooms where light shades of natural colors were used, white, many glass items. The room will be easy and spacious, full air.
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I will try to tell and show how I make grass from plumbing flax in a 35th scale. Tools and materials that I need:
Actually Santechle himself. When buying in a shopping store it is worth choosing that flax, which has a homogeneous structure without major components.
Supergel. It is the supergel, and not superciles.
Acrylic paint green / herbal /, white, brown. I use Akan.
Diluent for paint. I use technical alcohol. (Smells badly, but quickly dries).
Aerograph. Here without him, unfortunately, in no way.
Latex gloves. To do not paint hands when staining flax.
Dental probe. Or a large sewing needle. Just a dentist's tool is very convenient in circulation.
Scissors and tweezers.
Well, the base of the diorama / vignette. Here, everyone does in their own way. It is important that the supergel is reliably fixed flax on the surface of the base.
Luck must be carefully "fluffy." Otherwise, when painting everything stops (photo 1). Color from the airbrush in three or four shades of green. Just add different shades to the basic green paint (photo 2).
Take the painted flax and cut it with scissors on various segments in length, approximately 1.5-2.5 cm. - at the height of the future grass (photo 3). Cut in such a way all the painted flax ... and unpainted too! (Photo 4).
Mix each bunch of sliced \u200b\u200bflax. Hands (photo 5). Then "cross" them between them, gradually adding other shades to the primary color (photo 6). Along the way, we remove such mercies "blade" (photo 7) from "kneading" (photo 7). After receiving a homogeneous mass, we add chopped flax to it. Of course, stirring (photo 8). We get such a stack of hay (photo 9).
I pull out the total heap of the bunch of greens and scissors align it on the one hand (photo 10). We apply a bit of the supergel on the cropped part of the beam (photo 11). Now we sit on our grass to the soil in small portions (photo 12). Then take a large sewing needle or something like it. We introduce it in one or two millimeters from the base in the grass (photo 13). And we begin to cut forward too thick piglets from the base (photo 14). We delete too much. Then, by the way, it can be reused (photo 15).
Condure what is too sticking out (photo 16). The photo shows that our grass is very inhomogeneous in height (photo 17). It turns out in the yard grass. On the grass - "in the firewood", it is for the scale 🙂 (photo 18).
The grass is better to plant when the idea, for which it is here, is quite defined, since the grass from Plothell is hard. And something to put in it is vitally will not succeed. But, in principle, you can already after disembarking it in line with the idea and location of what should be in it / on it ...
I will be glad if my vision of the embodiment of grass from Santechnna in miniature will be interesting for you and will be useful when building diorama or vignette.
By modeling models, many over time come to the thought that it is precisely the overall quality of work. Completely agree with them. Moreover, it is gaining courage to argue that only from the careful study of the whole little things on the stand on your work, depends on how the viewers will take it - as a piece of real life, or as a bright (even if even a very highly painted) toy.
It is no secret to anyone that VIM initially began to exist as the creation of voluminous illustrations for certificates of military history. And that is why many of those who are seriously engaged in this hobby give in their works such a value of the most accurate compliance with historical realities.
But here, in my opinion, there is some underwater stone to which many fall. Any miniature made even as reliably as possible, but standing on a simple smooth stand, in visual perception loses a lot.
We are talking about:
If, for example, the figure is collected and painted only with one goal - to serve as a technical manual, which can be considered literally from all sides, and the main goal is the maximum historical prototype matching, then such work is really possible, it is quite possible to leave on a very primitive "conditional" Stand.
But, if, in addition to the miniature listed with miniature, a lot of work was carried out on its "revival" (toning, pollution, dusting, etc.), if the author tries to convey some emotions to us, then there is already the absence of the same carefully worked and logically justified stand, Looks like, in my opinion, as a lack of something very important.
And vice versa - if the surrounding entourage is carefully thought out and scrupulously completed, then the miniature itself will look completely different in it.
Now let's go to a more practical conversation, which, I hope, will be interesting not only to beginners, but also those who have long made their first steps in models.
There are several ways to manufacture miniature flora. For this purpose:
- Ready sets of various firms,
Dried fragments of real colors and plants,
- made with their own hands from undergraduated means (paper, foil, packle, pile, etc.).
But, in his experience, I will say - the most realistic and qualitative view has a stand on which the combination of these three ways was applied.
Another very important point - here as nowhere is the principle: "happens or quickly, or well." Therefore, in no hurry to fall asleep the ground with a thick layer of the monotonous-identical "railway" grass, a terrible cutting foam or planting it with dense beams of the same shredded bristle. Believe me, such vegetation is similar to the real nature only in your own imagination.
"Salla" his thickets, it is better to do this without hurrying and very thoughtfully, literally in blade. At the same time, it is necessary to constantly evaluate the entire composition "In general", both in terms of its color solutions and in terms of the diversity of the invoice and size of your "seedlings".
The "landing" of herbs should occur in a certain order, as if tiers - from the highest, to the lowest. And the sceneness of work is from the center of the stand, to its edges (if another option is not specified by the plot).
The order "from the center - to the edges" can still be broken if there are some buildings or structures on the stand. In this case, the highest and large plants are better spaced next to these objects.
And one more compulsory rule is necessary "accents".
Many of you probably noticed that, for example, the same grass on the street only with a fluid look looks monotonous (height and color). But it is worth looking more attention to how it becomes clearly seen that in a common mass, higher, and larger individuals are always distinguished. Yes, and the color of green vegetation is also not so monotonous, as it seems to us.
All this must be done in their works. Only then will it look like not as painted staring bristles, but as a piece of real nature.
And as such "accents" can be:
- separate high trestors,
- Clearly "readable" in the total mass of the leaves of individual plants,
- Separately growing flowers,
- Fragments of the landscape, differing in color (more cough, more "juicy", etc.)
More about what it is worth mentioning, this is that, with the help of one of the "herbs" to get away from some monotony and monotony on the stand is very difficult. The introduction of additional "filling" will help us to defeat it. To do this, the Earth should appear sticks, large stones and fallen leaves.
All the same rules must be observed here - during installation it is not to hurry and constantly evaluate the general appearance, harmony and logicality of the landscape of the landscape.
Also do not forget here about the arrangement of "accents". And if sticks and major stones are already in themselves such accents, then with false foliage you need to work. In its common, sufficiently shapeless mass, separate leaves of the usual form should be well released, with clearly defined edges.
As an example, I would like to bring one of my long-time (54 mm).
Phased it looked like this:
1. Installation on the stand pre-painted fence (metallic, from the set of the figure itself).
2. Imitation of the soil (land and sand of various fractions + PVA).
3. Production of stone (modeling from a millipot + painting).
4. Cray and tinted land according to the selected plot, landscape and season.
5. "Landing" and painting grass (a mixture of artificial materials and dried natural "herbarium").
6. We glue the fallen leaves (plant seeds, sliced \u200b\u200bdry grass, ready-made paper leaves of Kamizukuri).
As you can see, here I tried to comply with all the rules listed above. As a result, it seems to me, it turned out quite realistic. And in any case, it is better than just a smooth earth, or a monophonic carpet of neatly trimmed bristles.
And a couple more words about technology ...
If the figure or some major item, prevent "plant" vegetation, then it can be done so (in this case 1:35):
The grass is fixed on separate pieces of cardboard, they process it, and paint, and after that, ready-made fragments are placed on a shared stand, in advanced places.
The same is done with large plants.
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And one more strong argument saying that micro-gardening is the right thing.
If the figure is very good, then carefully developed vegetation around it, perfectly complement the overall picture of quality work.
And if it turned out to be not very with a miniature, then the surrounding landscape gently disguises these shortcomings, pulling out some of the audience attention.
This is me all to the fact that in my opinion in models there are no secondary trifles!
Because none of the audience considers our miniatures from afar. After the first "covering" glance, each relieves immediately approach the "smell distance". And here it will immediately be seen that it actually stands on the stand - a beautiful doll on a green panel, or a small living person on real grass.
(Text used photos from the site