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Proper trimming of fruit trees and the formation of the crown. When and how to crop fruit trees in the fall

Landscape garden design

When to start the spring trimming of trees? Very often, such a question asks as experienced gardeners and lovers who are first faced with the need to care for the garden. It is believed that the best time for trimming is the end of winter or early spring, when the trees have not yet begun to go to a new height. In this article, we will help the advice for beginner lovers of garden sites, how to trim the trees when it is better to do and why.

Proper trimming of garden trees - when to spend it better?

Experienced gardeners know that high-quality and timely trimming of fruit trees, including berry, as well as various ornamental or fruit shrubs, helps to increase the fecundity, the quality of fruits and maintain the health and beauty of the plant. However, in order to pruning correctly, you need to know several techniques and rules, as well as choose the right time and use the appropriate tools for this.

It is possible to start the process of trimming trees with the onset of the first cold. As you know, at this time, trees and shrubs fall into the winter "hibernation". The main condition is to observe temperature mode. In no case cannot be triggered in frosty weather, the air temperature must necessarily be above 2-3 degrees. In addition, winter trimming is completely different on a tree than a spring, especially for such fruit fruits as a cherry, a cherry and apricot.

Gardening practice shows that the uncircumcised trees are much better to transfer winter frosts, especially in the northern part of the country, so specialists recommend taking a hacksaw or another tool with the onset of the first sunny days of spring, regardless of the type of wood and its age. During this period, the kidney is still very young and not swollen, while the weather is set pretty comfortable for the successful "operation".

The first thing is circumcised fruitful trees, such as apple trees (autumn-winter varieties), apricots, cherry and plum. A later period should be proceeding with cutting breeds, pears and peach. As for the latter, the best time for trimming is the moment when buds are just formed on young branches.

The best trimming time directly depends on the region where the fruit tree grows. In the southern regions, the warmth comes much earlier, more harvest, which means that you can proceed to various types Trimming early, while the northern trees at this time still winter. That is why there is no clearly defined seasonal schedule, and each gardener is focused on the weather and the trees themselves, for which it is often possible to understand whether time has come for trimming.

Types of pruning - when the trees are necessary?

Depending on how the month is being trimmed, it is usually carried out with a specific purpose, each of which contributes to the formation or maintenance of a certain process during the growth of the tree and its fruitiness. Thus, distinguish:

  1. 1. Forming. This type of trimming most often needed young shoots and shrubs that are in a state of constant growth. This type of trimming allows you to form the desired crown size and contributes to the attachment of the silhouette, which allows trees easier to carry various loads. This also regulates the yield of each large and small branch. Bringing to forming trimming best in March-April, for greater growth intensity. Conducting this type in winter, on the contrary, slows down intensity, making growth slower.
  2. 2. Regulating fruiting. This type of trimming allows you to support the crown in the right state, and stop the too high growth of young shoots, which can overload a tree. With this technique, you can also extend the period of fruiting or regulate the frequency of fruit. Such trimming is recommended in the fall or at the end of winter, for the spring period, it is usually not typical.
  3. 3. Upgrading. Need to rejuvenate an old tree, such a type of trimming reduces the top of the crown to give the remaining part more sunlight and stimulate the growth of new shoots. It is recommended to resort to renewing trimming at the beginning of spring, especially if the annual growth of new branches ranges from 10 to 15 centimeters. In this case, the branch must be shortened for the appearance of apparent kidneys during flowering.
  4. 4. Regenerating. Pruning in this case is not aimed at improving the properties of a tree, but to return to it lost abilities to growth, development and fruiting, which were lost as a result of diseases or improper care.
  5. 5. Sanitary. Such trimming can be carried out round yearAnd it is aimed at removing dry, sick or broken branches that need to be removed from the crown. However, even the most dry branches are not recommended to cut into frosty weather. It is also important to take into account the age and sizes of the tree - too intense trimming can lead to high crown thickening.

Regardless of the type of trimming, it is necessary to choose the right and prepare tools, as well as know how to crop the tree in this or that calendar period. Next, we will tell about the techniques of the cut and the features of their in the spring, fall and winter.

Choosing tools and equipment Circus - do everything right

Crop the trees only with the help of tools such as a secateur or garden hacksaw. For the cutting of branches at a hard-to-reach distance, a diagram or device under the name "air sektor" is used. It is a long telescopic stick on which a standard secateur is fixed, and drives with the rope attached to it.

The secret is better to use the usual, without a snoring mechanism, with sharp blades. This will remove branches with one click. When choosing a hacksaw, pay attention to the presence of gaps in teeth, which prevent the cluster of sawdust. In no case do not use the building tool so as not to damage the tree.

All tools must be clean and sharp, in order to avoid the formation of ribbon surfaces on small and large branches, through which unwanted microorganisms penetrate into the tree. Additionally, it is recommended to use natural oil paint or special garden ointment based on petroleum products. With their help, it is necessary to smell the emerging small and large wounds on the tree.

Circular techniques - Features of application

Cutting can be trimmed in several ways. The most common and effective are such ways as:

  • Scroll under the kidney. This technique allows you to change the directions of the growth of the branch, especially young shoots, the cut should be clear and even, with an indent from the kidney to 1 centimeter. The cut should be made at an angle of 45 degrees, while not to leave too large "pencils" over the kidney and not damage it.
  • Ring slice. This technique is used when it is necessary to remove the branch completely, for example, if it grows incorrectly. You can cut with either a garden hacksaw or a secateur, in this case it all depends on the thickness of the branch itself. The cut must be taken carefully and necessarily at the outer edge of the ring.

The "ring" in the gardener language is a branch connection site for which the appropriate seal or influx of the bark is characteristic.

  • Non-selective trimming. In this case, you can implement a new move of escape growth, that is, to translate growth from one to another. To do this, using a suitable tool, make a cut at any point of the branch. It is assumed that in the location of the cut, new wolf shoots will begin to grow, which will subsequently improve the pomp of the crown of the tree.

Features of trimming fruit trees - Useful Tips

Different varieties of trees need different types Trimming. If we are talking about an apple tree or pear, then with any trimming, the most important thing is to maintain a central trunk conductor, while it is necessary to observe the time limits and ensure that the branches come out from it at a large angle. If the angle is reduced, the branches should be cut, especially if they interfere with the rest.

Drug trees, unlike others, have a shape of a bush, so during the care of them it is necessary to ensure that Krona retains the cup-shaped form. Some varieties of plums, for example, American growing much faster than European, therefore it will have to crop them several times more often. Also, when leaving the drain, it is important to always leave the open top of the crown to provide permanent lighting.

Peach and apricot trees from the garden grow even faster than plum, apple tree or pear, so every year, the gardeners spend a massive crown crown. It is important to remove those branches on time that are too low to the ground. At the same time, remember that the best time to work on bone fruits is the beginning or middle of the spring, in the period when they begin to bloom. It is strictly not recommended to crop these varieties of fruit trees in the winter.

For normal growth and development of cherries in the garden, in the process of trimming, it is necessary to designate a clear central crown-conductor as an apple tree and ensure that the main crown is like a long-term type. Unlike peach or apricot, the cherry cannot be cut too often, as this heat-loving tree can suffer more from frosts.

Regardless of the variety of fruit wood, it is necessary to systematically remove old, patients or dry branches as they appear and ensure that the branches grow more horizontally relative to the Earth, as the vertically arranged shoots are less fruitful.

This only at first glance it seems that haircuts are invented exclusively for people. No less need in a similar procedure, not only beauty for the sake of the sake of the sake of the sake of the sake of.

Beautiful and well-kept garden cannot be created without competent. But to get the desired result, it is important to answer for three main questions: what to cut? when? and for what?


It is about this that we will talk today, because autumn is the right time for a similar topic.

Secrets of garden hairdresser

In fact, the field of activity opens very extensive, because almost every garden resident needs if not in a haircut, then at least in minimal hanging. Some plants should be correct, others have to deprive "Shevoleur" to save from enemies (and pathogens), the third managed to suffer from the discontinuations of the elements during the growing season and they urgently require the intervention of the traumatologist.

Tip: Autumn trim start after the leaf fall, when the Socialization stops and for plants, the period of rest comes. Well, it is necessary to finish the process before Morozov. Only in this case the haircut does not weaken the plants, but, on the contrary, will strengthen their immunity. And you should not too much to zealous - the pruning should be gentle so that your favorites do not get too much stress.

Wintering with a injured or thickened crown is dangerous for plants, so in the fall first of all necessary sanitary and thinning trimming All cultures.

In the first case, trees and bushes are eliminated from broken, non-pronomous and dried branches. Special attention should be paid to bumps affected by pests and diseases. Such sites are particularly well noticeable after the trees break out with foliage.

Trimming inside the crown often call slashing (Carved branches that prevent light access or crossed and rub each other, damaging the bark). You can also name and shoots that depart from the trunk up at an acute angle. And do not forget to ruthlessly cut wolf - Saves that grow on the central conductor and skeletal branches.

Another kind of autumn trimming can safely call addressThat is, an acceptable for a specific group of plants. And here, as usual, how many groups, so much and the subtleties of the process. Let's consider all possible options.

Trimming berry shrubs

Yield largely depends on regular trimming, which forms bushes, eliminates the aged and sick branches, opens the crown for light. Such work should be done in the fall, since in the spring these plants wake up very early, and you risk do not have time to finish the preventive haircut before the saxation and swelling swelling.

Operating principle It is about the same for all representatives of this group: removing the branches of shrubs "on the ring" under the root, not leaving the hemp, close to the ground, or even a little underground. More information about this method is written in the article. In the same way, get rid of non-invalid green and weak escapes, which are unlikely to drop (in the cold, they usually freeze and reduce the winter hardiness of the entire plant).

Tip: The number of overwhelmed young shoots left should be equal to the number of remote, then the required balance will be respected.

Important: With autumn trimming, do not shock healthy shoots berry Sustainers, postpone this matter until spring, because it can not only make a cut slicer, but also a significant part of escape.




Sanitary trimmer is relevant for any wood plants Therefore, in the fall, trees and shrubs need to get rid of dried and broken branches. The cutting haircut will help them easier to survive the winter.

Trimming ornamental shrubs

Many In the fall needed sanitary trimming and thinning. But if the first process is required for all, then certain problems may occur with the second, because it is not possible to shorten shoots in the fall in the fall. So when can you make a beauty? The answer to this question depends not only from features of the species, varieties, but on the time of their flowering.

Remember: At the end of the season only shrubs blooming on shoots of the current year should be cut. Plants who pleased with their lush color already in early spring, it is categorically forbidden to touch in the fall - here the flower kidneys are formed on the growth of last year, so all "hairdressers" must be performed in the summer, immediately after the end of flowering.


Autumn (or early spring) cut off shrubs blooming from mid-summer to autumnForming floral kidneys on the growth of the current year. This is flowering in summer , Kiznicker brilliant, Rubbinnik is abinstalistic and others.

In the fall, there needs a prophylactic trimming for the release of the plant from the unnecessary cargo of dry, patients, and non-pronomous branches.



In the fall only in sanitary trimming, and dried inflorescences better to leave on a bush until spring.


How to trim the hortenziness correctly, you will learn from the article. In the fall, engaged in sanitary and thinning trimming, you can also delete or shorten summer gains - in the spring will grow new shoots.

Haircut decorative, whose branches are decorated with autumn, often postpone early spring. For example, blooms from July to September, and in August and September fruits appear, which can persist on shoots all winter.


By the way, the snowy year perfectly transfers the rejuvenating autumn trimming "under the stump" with a height of 40-60 cm - the next summer of sleeping kidneys will grow young shoots.

Supports in sanitary and in thinning trimming. Plan these works for autumn.


Queen of our gardens - - Very demanding to the conditions of wintering. Transfer the natural cataclysms to them helps the correct trimming. In the insion, almost all representatives of this family need in the sanitary and thinning haircut.



  • By the weather (usually at the end of October), remove the unbearable and directed the inside of the bush shoot, old, broken, sick and damaged by pests of the branches, cut the remaining flowers, buds, leaves.
  • Grafsted roses get rid of the rooted roses, which constantly grows throughout the season, otherwise the rose-in-dive will crush the grafted variety.
  • Comfortable wintering of varietal roses (Floribund, tea-hybrid, poliant) will provide water-dry shelter, before the device of which all branches will have to shorten.
  • Before proceeding with "hairdressing procedures", install a framework for the shelter for which it is necessary to temporarily sketch the film from the rain - roses after the autumn haircut it is contraindicated.
  • Soots do not shock under the height of the shelter. This is not necessary, because for the winter the plants are removed from the supports and is covered in a horizontal position. They need sanitary trim: Removal of the remaining flowers, buds, leaves, injured, patients or pests populated.

In more detail, to understand the subtleties of the samples of "decorative" will help you the cycle of articles:

Trimming curly plants

Quickly apply to all parties without taking a certain form. If you leave them for the mercy of nature, they will crawl on the ground, and C and move to neighboring trees. So that they do not strangle their neighbors in the arms, allow these climbers to climb along the wall or fence.



(, and) recommend to trim only in the fall - Spring haircut is harmful to health, because in the stems "boil juice." Remove the old, weakly branched, unbearable, dried, weak and extra plenties and necessarily - unbearable shoots, otherwise they will freeze and reduce the winter hardiness of the entire plant.

Time pruning depends on the period of their flowering. If the buds appear on the shoots of last year, spend a haircut immediately after the completion of flowering: Fully remove the weak and dried shoots and shorten the shocks, then before the onset of cold weather, the plant will have time to grow shoots and lay new kidneys.



Clematis, blooming twice (at the beginning of summer - on the shoots of the previous year, and then from July to autumn on the shoots of the current year), they also twice the season. After the first blossom, shorten or even cut a part of the shoots of last year to stimulate the growth of new ones, and in the fall remove the weak and sick shoots, leave some of the strongest.

Clematis, blooming from July and until mid-September on the shoots of the current year, cut down "on the stump" with a height of 20-50 cm above the second or third pair of kidneys.

Haircut of alive hedge

Stream to make it thick and smooth.



  • "Fences" from deciduous recommend to trim until the first year after landing, best in the late autumn.
  • Fast-growing crops (for example, or) poured as shoots grow throughout the summer.
  • Shrubs that are not too hurry to grow, cut 2-3 times per season: in autumn and early spring, and if necessary, in summer to maintain a given form.
  • Hollows from the tree of trees under the winter are not cut. If you need forming trimming, make it or early spring before the start of the growth of new shoots, or at the end of summer, but no later than mid-August. On the same time, you spend the sanitary trim: remove safe and damaged branches. Do not hurry to trim young conifers - to fully acclimatize, they will need at least two years.

Tip:
cut off bare, devoid of branches, they still dried, because most of these plants have no sleeping kidneys on old shoots and new needles instead of the fallen will not grow. By the way, it is for the same reason that the krona of conifers cannot be restored after severe trimming, so limit the removal of dying and dead shoots.

Important:
not all conifers welcome pruning. Well tolerate haircut

Caring for trees in the garden is very important, because if we start this process on samone, no about which good cropsAnd the aesthetic beauty of the garden does not have to speak. The formation of the crown directly affects fertility, as well as appearance. Autumn trimming of fruit trees is the most important, and from how you spend it depends a lot. Forming a crown starts from an early age, so the dacnik determines the strongest branches that are given priority in development. The tree does not waste forces by the fear, so the crop is obtained maximum for one or another variety. In addition to weak branches, it is necessary to remove both old, dry, conduct a sanitary trimming of a tree.

What is pruning, why is it needed?

Removal of shoots, branches or its parts for the formation of a crown in prophylactic or sanitary purposes is rejuvenated for old plants. This procedure is exposed not only fruit trees, but also shrubs, decorative plants. As a rule, work in this direction is carried out in autumn or spring, but sometimes, for a number of reasons you can cut a tree and in the summer. Autumn pruning is appropriate only in regions with a rather mild climate, for residents of the northern regions, it will be better to postpone work on the spring. Why is that? Everything is simple, immediately after you remove the branches or shoots, the wound is formed on the spot, and if a sharp cooling comes, then the bark is sharply started to freeze, and the wood will deteriorate. Thus, the plant may die.

It should be noted the fact that not all the plant needs a frequent trimming, there are cultures from which it happens every few years, others are cut off every season. Therefore, on, we will talk about the peculiarities and nuances in the processing of one or another tree.

Trimming an apple tree.

When:

Apple tree is cut in spring and less - in summer (with a very thick crown, which interferes with the development of fruits). Sometimes spend this procedure and autumn.

Spring. It is important to proceed to work even until the time of the plant will begin. First of all, the branches are removed, which in winter it was frozen and dried, then proceed to the formation of the crown.

Fall. It is necessary to make a sanation crown suitable for this month - November. Do not start trim branches before the apple tree drops the leaves.

Colon's apple tree is cut or at the beginning of summer, or under the winter.

Autumn trimming apple

The goal is to eliminate weak, dry, with signs of rotting, black cancer, and other dangerous states. Do not worry, you will not bring harm, because during this period the plant is already at rest.

Action plan:

  • Start with old large branches that dried or have received serious damage.
  • Be proceed to removing branches that grow under an acute angle.
  • All sections of sections are lubricated with Garden Wara, if not, then use paint on the olife. Young branches do not proceed immediately, and a day later.
  • All sliced \u200b\u200bshoots and branches burn.

Young apple trees are very careful, while the secateur is used. The shoots that appeared this year appeared on the fourth, and then they do not touch them for 3-5 years. However, this rule should be neglected if the village is growing rapidly. The plant over 5-6 years old is cut into a more serious scale, but still, moderately. Leading, strong twigs are shortened by a third.

The rejuvenation of the old apple trees is in three phases:

  1. First year, we remove a third of the old branches, choose old, and damaged.
  2. In the next season, we repeat this procedure, with the same outcome.
  3. On the third year - the final phase, we remove all the old branches that still remain.

When rejuvenated, the secret can hardly help you, it is best to use a saw. Before working the blade should be disinfected.

Colon's apple tree.


In this case, a direct dependence on the intensity of cropping to the growth intensity of the remaining shoots is traced. Remove boldly a third of the branches, three or four kidneys will remain, from which powerful, and healthy shoots will appear on the seventh year. Otherwise, if you leave more kidneys, shoots will be average, and very weak, if you leave the tree alone, and delete a minor part. Do not cut off the central part, otherwise the crown will start splitting.

If you decide to achieve a colonum shape, it must be started to form the very moment of planting a seedling. For this, the painted escape is tied to the support, and the fruit links form out of the side. If shoots over powerful them cut into the ring, as they can begin to delay the growth of the conductor. The framework is formed from grown young shoots.

How to crop the apple tree in the spring.

The first procedure is carried out in the first year after landing, even if you acted carefully when landing, the root system is still damaged, because the apple tree she is very fragile. So it is necessary to cut a sapar to distribute the movement nutrients And juice, only to the desired twig. In the photo, you see the processing scheme after landing, using this instruction you can form the correct crown.

Already a year later, next spring, the second trimming of the apple tree is carried out. This time we only leave 4-5 branches, the strongest and growing under the stupid angle are skeletal branches. But they must be cut to form a longline tape. To do this, leave below the length longer than the above. The conductor (barrel) is also cut, it should be higher than the other processes no more than 25 centimeters. In case of splitting the conductor, one of its parts is cut off.

The third is the fifth year.

This is a very important period for the formation of the crown, so you need to act very carefully. The main thing is not to harm the future fruiting, proceed carefully, and do not delete too zealo.

Height of the conductor every year must be adjusted, and not allow it too rapid growth.

Pruning pears.

Pruning pear has its own characteristics, this procedure is not carried out annually, but still the regularity is necessary. Sanitary procedures are carried out in the warm season. With the onset of cold weather, they become impossible, and they are transferred to the warm season. Spring is considered the best period when the temperature crosses the + 8c mark. In the fall of the trimming of pears only in September. The pyramidal shape of the tree is a reference, at which the female collection is significantly simplified, so it is best to follow this tradition in the formation of the crown.

The crown begins to form almost from the very beginning, but before this makes it necessary to allocate branches, which will form a pear base. An annual plant is covered at an altitude of about 45 centimeters from the ground. In two annual trees, half the side shoots are removed, the remaining will be the basis for a powerful tree. They are cut at one level, but the conductor is 20 cm higher than the rest.

In the fall, the pear is cut only in order to remove patients, dry, damaged branches, as well as unnecessary in the crown, which do not benefit. For a third, you can shorten young shoots, as well as the top, but only on need, the main thing is not to harm the form of the crown, leave it pyramidal. Further damaged by a secateur or saw of place, as well as sections, handle the garden harr. As we said earlier, young shoots lubricate only after the day from the moment of work.

Pruning pears in spring.

In the spring it is best to carry out procedures for rejuvenation. To do this, you must first cut up the top, but this is only if you have not previously conducted the correct pruning procedures, and if you did everything right, the crown will be optimal height, and you can only navigate the thickness, remove the weakest, dry and damaged twigs . The rest are shortened by a quarter, the location of the cut sliced \u200b\u200bto the garden wrair or paint based on the olifa. Make manipulations before the awakening of the kidneys, but not too early, the mark of the thermometer must step over the mark in + 5c.

How to trim the plum.

When cutting with a plum.

Perform this procedure for need.

Spring:

In the spring, plums is cut before the kidneys will be revealed. Delete first of all the frozen branches, then the phase of preparation for active growth occurs. In this case, begin to form a crown: remove the weak shoots that make it too thick, remove the damaged and dry twigs.

In summer:

It is carried out only when the abundant harvest threatens the fibement of the branches, remove or shorten the unnecessary.

Fall:


How to form a crown plum, scheme

Autumn pruning of plums decides at once two tasks: the preparation of the tree for winter, as well as an increase in yield next season. After the leaf fall, all processes in the plant slow down or stop at all, it is preparing to sleep, it is now that it is necessary to carry out all manipulations. It's time to remove damaged, dry and sick branches. The tops are shocked, if the drain is above 2.5 meters in height. Then comes the moment when you need to shorten the shoots that grew faster than the norm. Also shoots that in the future can make the crown too thick also remove. Young trees are not subjected to hard circumcision, shorten shoots no more than one third, but with branches that will grow inside the crown should not be ceremony, they are cut off entirely. Old branches are removed in the spring, but those who have not brought the fruits at all, can be removed in autumn.

All waste after work is burned, and the sections of the sections are treated with a garden boiler, or paint on the basis of olifa.

Old trees are not cut in the fall, this procedure is transferred to spring.

Pruning cherry.

When the cherry is cut:

There is no point in conducting this procedure every year. The formation and rejuvenation of the tree occurs in the spring, in the fall cut off the tree only if necessary, remove dry, damaged or sore branches. In the southern regions with a mild climate, it is possible to cut the cherry in October, but in the Northern - in September. After the tree is throwing leaves, you can start work. But be sure to look at the weather forecast, if you see that frosts will soon begin, then put this procedure for the arrival of spring.

Autumn trimming cherry:

In the autumn period of working with the trees, the year is not conducted, as they will not have time to heal their wounds before the onset of cold weather. The grown plants shorten and remove the branches carefully, while leaving the most powerful, protruding the proceedings in different directions. The distance between them should be at least 10 centimeters. We remove all the pigs, because it makes the cherry weak, and serves as a shelter for small rodents. At the Correspondstorm Plant, the piglet can be applied to transplant, and here it is useless in gravity.

Spring cherry trimming:

At this time, the young trees form, and also conduct sanitary processing of old. The most successful moment for this will be the beginning of March, and it will last until the end of April. At this time, the kidney has not yet blocked, and the flow of juice on the trunk did not begin. Young trees that started quite recently be fruitful and minimal and minimally. If you planted the tree in the fall, then only in the spring it can be started to trim.

Formation of young:

1-3 year-old cherries form in spring time. It is very important to form the crown correctly. Choose successfully growing skeletal branches (the distance between them 8-15 centimeters, they should not grow from neighboring kidneys). Remove the lowest shoots to the ring, it is necessary to raise a strab for 30-50 centimeters, then we delete weak and dry, as well as growing under an acute angle.

Work with old trees:

Care for 10-15 year old cherries is quite complicated, and will require certain knowledge and skills. Since fruiting at this age is abundant, the trunk must be made more stable, for this remove old, sick and dry branches. It is also necessary to first break the crown if it is very thick, and then already begin to rejuvenate.

The total number of first-order branches - from 8 to 12 (bush), and up to 8 (tree). The second order is not taken into account, they are removed only in the case when they begin to grow inside and thicken the crown. To change directions, the branches are cut to 1-2 kidneys. If the height of the cherry over 2.5 meters is pumped, cutting the central conductor.

Pruning Apricot:

When and how the apricot is cut.

Spring, summer and autumn are suitable for this procedure. The most thorough and thorough is spring, in the summer only branches overloaded with fruits, which threaten damage the tree as a whole. In the fall, sanitary works are carried out and prepare for winter.

Fall.

Cut off the branches during this period very neatly, and only removing old, dry and damaged. Do not leave deep wounds, and those that remained to be treated with a garden harder, if the cut is deep, then first apply the copper sipart on the wound, and then the garden is already a garden. You can also remove the shoots growing inside the crown.

Spring.

This is the optimal season to start work. Start pruning Apricot in about april when the cold is already retretable. During this period, the tree itself is formed, preferably in a cupid form, and also carry out sanitary trimming, and cleave too thick crown. Remove and growing rising shoots from skeletal sprigs.

Summer.

At this time, the procedure is very effect on future yield. At the very beginning of the summer, last year's shoots are plugged, the length of which exceeds 20 centimeters. Already after 10 days, the number of shoots will increase significantly, which will have a positive effect on the yield. But do not forget to regularly water apricot, especially if there is dry, hot weather on the street, otherwise all the events will disappear, without allowing the proper effect.

How does the pruning process apricot occurs:

It should be said that in different age groups, various tasks are solved, so it is advisable to divide this issue for several points, as wells.

Young .

When trimming young treeIt is very important to look at the right formation of the trunk, as well as for the location of skeletal branches. The shoots need to shorten the young apricot to endure their severity with ease, and could safely develop.

Sequencing:

  1. After the year after the landing, it will be approximately September, it is necessary to shorten on a 1/4 whip from the tree.
  2. Aven a year later, there are three large branches on the place, they should also be cut, at the very beginning of the fall. In early spring Pruning is not carried out, otherwise there is a risk that the tree will die.
  3. On the third year of growth, Apricot will acquire a spherical shape, at this moment it will be necessary to trim the growth shoots, if they are stitching and distinguished from the rest of the mass.
  4. Small, weak branches are plugged at the point of growth.
  5. Starting from the fourth year, the gardener is necessary on a regular basis to cut stem shoots growing faster than others.
  6. Fruit branches remove every few years.

Old:

The procedure for rejuvenation of apricot is very important if you want to save or even multiply its yield. When is the procedure necessary? In the event that the annual increase in shoots is less than 20 centimeters.

Algorithm of actions:

  1. Spreads whom turned 5 years old and more should be sprinkled at an angle.
  2. When a powerful escape appears on the site of the spike, then the branches above it, or grow in different directions are removed, thus the new sprout gets more forces and nutrients.
  3. Radical removal does not occur, make this procedure gradually waiting for the appearance of new shoots, and only then remove the old ones.

Pruning peach.

When:

As in most cases, this procedure is carried out with a peach three times per year: in the fall, in the spring, and in the summer. In the spring form a plant, and also remove branches damaged by cold cold. Also in the spring you can rejuvenate peach. In summer, manipulations are carried out only if necessary, and in the fall - prepare for winter.

Fall.

We carry out sanitary removal of unnecessary branches, damaged and patients. Waste burning away from fruit garden, Wounds treat with garden preparation, or paint based on olifa.

In the spring.

The most suitable moment for this procedure is the period between the beginning of the swelling swelling and flowering. As a rule, he lasts long, the maximum three to four weeks, during which time you need to have time to spend all the events.

  • Increase fruiting interval.
  • Formation of decorative species.
  • Sanitary.
  • Acceleration of flowering and start of fruiting.

Pruning peach in the ages.

  1. The first year after landing, it is necessary to form a crown in the form of a vase. For this, the plant is shortened by 20 centimeters, at an altitude of about 65 centimeters. Upper increase should have a wide angle of disheavage. Next, select two more increments that will be below and have the same parameters as the top. They need to shorten by 10 centimeters. The shoots that began on the stamper in the procurement site near the trunk should be removed as soon as the kidneys dissolve. Those shoots that grow inside the crown must be removed, do it in the summer.
  2. For the second year, it is necessary to form the right angle of inclination and the growth of skeletal branches. New gains shorten up to 65 centimeters. Strong gains growing at the top or bottom - remove. Side - need to cut forward, leave every 15 centimeters, and the length is removed by 2 kidneys. In the summer, fat shoots growing inside the crown are removed.
  3. Third year. At this time, you should choose in the skeletal branch at the top, two powerful branches, and cut them into 60 centimeters from the site of splitting. Remove the main part of the conductor over the top branch. The most powerful shoots are removed from the top and bottom on skeletal branches. In the case when the length of young, one-year-old increases exceeds the length of 80 centimeters, they need to cut forward, cut into 2 kidneys. This begins to form a new fruit link. The rest of them is used in the time fruit branches that must be shortened by eight kidneys. So that the lower escape growing to pinzing develops as much as possible, the escape located on top must be cut up to 50 centimeters. On those branches, where last year were shortened for two kidneys, the increase that grows up should be shortened to fruiting, and the lower - two kidneys. This is how the fruit formation occurs.
  4. it last year The growth of peach, therefore the formation of a vase crown is completed for the fourth year. And so, at the top of the skeletal split 2nd order, we choose 2 branching of the 3rd order. They shorten them by a third of their initial length. It is necessary to remove strong increments in the upper and lower surface of branching, which are located at the base of the strain. On the branchings of the 2nd order, finish the formation of fruit units. On the separation of the 3rd order, thinning the growths, sometimes pretty strong enough, up to the second kidney. The rest are left at 7-8 kidneys. These will be non-permanent fruit branches. In the first row, remove the sprigs that are no longer fruit. As well as the branches of the lower growth, which were previously cut in the past year. On the upper increments, remove about seven kidney groups

Crucifying cherry.

When:

Formed a tree in the spring, the autumn conducts sanitary activities and according to tradition, they prepare a cherry for winter, but in the fall on the recommendation of many gardeners you can rejuvenate. But, of course, it is not very trimming hard on the eve of cold weather, it is better to combine sanitary procedures with rejuvenation, and remove damaged, weak and sick branches. If you have not risked to rejuvenate the sneaker in the fall, you can do it in the spring.

Crown According to experienced gardeners, a sweet cherry must have a form of a cone, with a broad basis. Thus, the tree receives the maximum amount of heat and the sun, and good air circulation inside the crown is also ensured.

Fall.

After all the leaves fall, take it for removing, dry, patients, and damaged branches. The rejuvenation procedure requires the removal of old branches, older 6-7 years, under the ring. Wounds make a garden breach and paint based on the Olife.

Spring.

The beginning of March is the best time for the spring cutting of cherry. At this time, she has not yet left the sleep phase, so all the procedures will be less traumatic. But wait for the cessation of night frosts. To prevent the branches drying, you should not remove its tips, and the growth kidneys. Too thick deciduous crown is removed not in one fell, but tiers. Thus, you stimulate the appearance of lateral shoots, which in turn will positively affect future yield.

Summer.

In the summer, cherry trimmed, those who do not like to do this in the spring, due to stress for wood. You can also hold sanitary work at this time.

Trimming garden trees.

As you can see a lot in the trimming of all fruit trees. The main activity in this matter falls on the spring, during this period, as a rule, form a tree, rejuvenate it. But in summer and autumn, additional procedures are carried out, and sanitation, removing patients, dry, and weak branches. But, as an exception, you can submit an apple tree and a pear, in this case the main season of the work is considered to be autumn.

How to trim, techniques:

  • Cut on the kidney: It is carried out in order to change the direction of growth of the branch, you can choose the vector suitable for you. To do this, find the kidney on the annual shoot, which would be directed to the direction you need. It is necessary to cut off the branch at an angle of 45 degrees, but look at the opposite of the kidney stump not too long (about 2 centimeters). Because if the stump is longer, it is most likely he dried up, and the kidney will not be awakened.
  • Scroll on the ring. When you remove an unnecessary process, you need to remove it completely, right before the outer edge of the ring. Thus, you can make the main one, that branch that grew next to unnecessary.

Caring for wounds is very important, so do not be lazy to the location of the cutting of the garden var, or the paint based on the olifa. Recently, many similar drugs have appeared, more efficient in their actions, can clarify this information in the nearest specialized store with you.

Recently, in a business store, I met my familiar gardener - Sergey Ivanovich Stepashin. Talked with him. He bought garden Var and two new secateurs for trimming. Nearby there was a woman and asked: "Why are you so early in the garden? There's snow in the belt! " Sergey Ivanovich she answers that it is time to do the trimming, otherwise the juices in the trees will wake up.

But the woman once again objected: "What are the juices? Appleveals only in May will dissolve, until this long time, have time. In the snow, cut uncomfortable. I come to the garden in mid-April to the garden, so behind the house there are still drifts. "

Expressing his care for the inconvenience related to the snow, the woman was surprised that Sergey Ivanovich chose the most dear tool. "That secret, cheaper, would be charged.What is the difference than cutting? It is good that I have young apple trees, do not cut them completely. "

And then an experienced gardener read a teaching shopping center "Lecture". All the advice were very valuable, and at my request, he allowed them to publish.

Sergey Ivanovich Gardener "with experience." Everyone goes to him for advice, because any year he with harvest. Trimming fruit cultures he considers very important. It provides wood health and good, stable yields. There are three main conditions that need to be observed.

1. Let's start with the deadlines. The trimming is carried out in the late or early days, when the threat of frosts with a temperature below -15С (in the middle line of Russia, usually from the end of February - until mid-to-late April). Therefore, dear gardeners, if you come to the garden only by mid-April, then this is the deadline for trimming!

Apple trees are really late and do not give signs of life for a long time. But they occur in hidden processes, including a depotation begins. If you carry out the trimming during this period, the wounds do not dry for a long time and the branches are expired by juice through them. Stone crops Awaken much earlier, they must be trim first.

2. Trimming fruit trees need to be carried out from the first year after landing. Young apple trees also need trimmed, like all sorts of others. It is impossible to wait when Krone touches and it will have to strongly cut forward. This is no longer pruning, but an execution for a tree. Proper trimming It involves the formation of the crown from the "childish" age, that is, the gradual, annual removal of unwanted branches and shortening, change the shape of the selected skeletal branches.

3. Conduct the trimming only sharply fulfilled tool. You should know that not every tool is suitable for trimming. Cheap secateurs and suchkores are made of soft metal, which is quickly stupid and covered with burishes. Their blades are very injured by fabrics. A good tool is made of high-quality steel, which perfectly holds sharpening. Such a secateur also serves much longer. Naturally, the price is higher.

Why form a krona

When forming the crown, special attention is paid to choosing future skeletal branches. They must meet the following requirements: the angle of extinction - 40-60 degrees; In one tier - no more than three branches.

Compliance with the corners is necessary that in the future the tree without installing the sub-project holds the harvest to 500 kg. With sharp angles of disheeming, the branch connection with the barrel is formed weak, and the voltage "on the breakdown" is quite large. In particularly harvest years, even large branches break. Sometimes the tree falls apart in half.

The branches with an acute angle of dieting or cut out, or flex them, installing the struts (Fig. 2.).

It is also necessary to comply with the condition that in one tier must be no more than three branches. Otherwise, the crown is thickened, and the crop decreases at low light, the taste qualities of the fruits deteriorate, the shoots are worse and illness begin to develop.

Trimming young seedlings

Pruning begin in the first year after landing. Saplings of spring and autumn landing cut the same. The meaning of this trimming is to balance the roots damaged during the spray, and the above-ground part. Sometimes it is done in the nursery.

Annual seedlings without branching are cut at an altitude of 80-100 cm above the soil level (Fig. 1, a). This stimulates the formation of lateral shoots, of which skeletal branches will be formed.

At an extensive seedling of 1-2 years of age, all side branches at an altitude of 60-70 cm are removed (Fig. 1, b). Often, gardeners regret the seedlove, believing that "he has nothing to cut." But such a trimming forms a flat tree stack. All branches below 60 cm are simply not needed. Below they are poorly lit and give a small harvest. Over time, they will still have to trim, but wounds will be more.

The branches located above 70 cm are shocked by 1/3-1 / 4. This is usually done over the 3-5th kidney, considering from the foundation of escape (see Fig. 1, B). At the same time, the principle of the cooding of the branches is observed. The central escape (leader, or conductor) should be higher than the side branches by 15-20 cm, and the shoots located above the stem must be shorter than those below. Usually, a two-year seedlings leave 3-4 lateral branches that shorter than the conductor. In the case when all branches are developed approximately the same and the central escape is not the leading growth, carry out a strong trimming of the side branches to achieve the principle of tier coencing. Sometimes a sapling has duplicate shoots (if two nearby kidneys have developed on the stem). Leave one, most well-positioned branch, and the second is cut into the ring.

Principles of crown formation. The angle of emergence of skeletal branches - 40-60 degrees; In one tier - no more than three branches; The leader should be above the side branches; The branches of the upper tiers should be shorter than the lower tiers.

After the winter, it may turn out that the leader is broken or a strongly fromz. In this case, it is replaced by the most powerful, closely located escape, taking it vertically to the hemp left from the conductor, or to a peg, stuck in the ground.

The same crop rules are observed for a three-year-old village and older. Moreover, the principle of coented branches is observed for lateral skeletal branches. Faced branches on them should be shorter than the side conductor. Speaking figuratively, the principle of coenses can be represented as a "district-line triangle", in which the tree must fit after the formation of the crown and its skeletal branches (Fig. 3).

In the future, the trimming of young wood is carried out in order to create a bright, rarefied crown. It is necessary to do it not only in spring, but also in the summer. For example, in summer it can be seen, what shoots grow inside the crown. They are immediately removed while they are still green. Young shoots growing down, pinch. Duplicate shoots cut off or translate them to another position with the help of stretch marks. Green trimming is the most gentle form of trimming.

You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Groke" 2011 No. 6.

When trimming and forming the crown of fruit trees, it is important to consider several important factors. In the life of fruit crops there are five periods: the first is the increase in vegetative parts, the second is active growth and fruiting; Third - balanced growth and fruiting, the fourth is a decrease in growth and fruiting, the fifth - the period of aging. Before cropping the branches of fruit trees, you need to choose a method that corresponds to this term.

In the first period of the life of a culture grafted on a seed stock, which in conditions middle strip It lasts an average of about six to seven years, the forming trimming is produced.

The following tasks are set in front of the formative cropping of fruit trees: creating a solid skeleton of a tree crown for normal growth and fruiting; Creating conditions for good lighting of leaves not only on the periphery, but also inside the crown to increase their productivity; the creation of a limited number of unproductive basicly growing upside down skeletal branches necessary to place fruit-sized, more horizontal branches in space; the creation of a large number of more horizontal, fructive, semi-honeycomb branches, on which the bulk of fruit branches is located in which the ridges, spear, fruit twigs are included; creating low-volume crowns with a height of a tree not more than 3-3.5 m as prerequisite To increase the productivity of labor care and harvest.

When forming the crown of fruit trees, it is necessary to reckon with the biological characteristics and structure of culture. The above-ground part of the tree is the trunk and its branching forming the crown. The bottom of the trunk, from the soil to the firstly growing upward branches, is called a strab. The rest of the trunk, above the stan, is called a central conductor, which ends on top, during the rest of the fruit tree, the growth of last year, or in the growing season of the current year - the escape continuation.

Close up of growing branches, departing from the central conductor, are called skeletal branches of the first order. Growing upward branches that depart from the skeletal branches of the first order are called the skeletal branches of the second order, etc.

In addition to the high-rise branches, the crown has more horizontal, less durable, more slaughter branches. They are called half-plated branches. Halfish, horizontal branches carry a large number of small thrifting branches, the main mass of which consists of fruit formations - rill, up to 3-4 cm long, 14-15 cm, fruit spots, from 15 to 25 cm, on which fruiting is formed. Therefore, half-plated branches are also called fruiting branches.

In compacted landings of intense amateur gardens, the best crown corresponding to the requirements for the formation of fruit trees is a rarely long-tier, low-consuming crown with six skeletal branches, with one order of their branching, with a large number of semi-honeymakely, fruiting branches, with a tree height 3-3 , 5 m.

Pruning fruit trees to form crowns start from the first year after landing.

On the central conductor, at an altitude of 50 cm from the soil, 2-3 skeletal branches are chosen, close to each other (can be from adjacent kidney), from different sides of the trunk, directing their growth in the future in different directions at an angle of 45 ° to the row line . They form the first tier. For the strength of the attachment, the angle of dulling the skeletal branches from the central conductor must be 45-60 °. In the formation of young fruit trees, it is impossible to choose as skeletal branches that are departed under acute angles (less than 45 °), since there are few connective tissue in such branches in the place of death from the trunk. As a result, it turns out a fragile fire, and under the weight of the crop they are cleaned. The stupid angles of filling of branches (more than 60 °) lead to the fact that the branch is quickly moving to fruiting and cannot perform the role of skeletal.

How to properly cut the branches of fruit trees with an acute angle of fatigue? In the first tier, they are cut onto the ring, and the extra skeletal branches with a good angle of dishelling and branches with an angles of more than 60 ° are translated into fruit-sized and cut them into the side branches.

And how to make a fruit trimming for creating a large number of half-plated, fruiting branches? For this, last year's growth of skeletal branches with a length of up to 60 cm is shortened by trimming on '/ 3 of its lengths, and increases of 70 cm and more are cut off by half.

Crimping the skeletal branches of fruit trees is carried out at the same height, the central conductor is cut into 25 cm above skeletal branches. Such coented ensures the strength of the fastening of skeletal branches with a central conductor, since in this case the diameter of the cross section of the skeletal branch at its place of death is almost twice the diameter of the cross section of the central conductor.

The next year after the shortening trimming of fruit trees in spring or autumn, in most cases, several vegetative growths and separate thrusts without flower kidney are formed on the skeletal branch.

How to properly spend the spring trimming of young fruit trees

With the formative spring trimming of fruit trees, one growing upward growth of last year on each skeletal branch as its continuation and shorten it by 1/3 or 1/2, depending on the increase in the increase. If there is a competitor - the second growing upward increases, then it is removed on the ring. Deleted on the ring of increments of last year, growing inside the crown. More horizontal increments of last year, growing from the skeletal branch on the side and on the periphery, leave both half-minded.

To pruning fruit trees correctly, as practice shows, it is necessary to leave for fruiting and horizontal branches located on the central conductor between the skeletal branches of the first tier and the subsequent skeletal branches, if they do not interfere with the growth of the main skeletal branches. The fourth skeletal branch on the central conductor is laid above the first tier by 80 cm. The distance between the fourth, fifth and sixth skeletal branch is recommended at 40 cm. Thus, the first lower three skeletal branches, located close to each other, form a tier, and the next three tops Skeletal branches are located rarely. From where and got the name of the Crohn-Local-Lial.

The trimming of the upper skeletal branches is carried out in the same way as the trimming of the skeletal branches of the first tier. Every year, last year's increase in each skeletal branch up to 60 cm long is cut into '/ s of its length, top. Groceries at 70 cm and are more trimmed by half.

Look at the photo - when trimming fruit trees, all skeletal branches are trimmed at the same altitude, and the conductor is always cut above all skeletal branches by 25 cm:

After the formation of the crown of six skeletal branches is over, and the upper skeletal branch of its top end moved from the central conductor to one and a half meters to the side, the central conductor for better illumination of the inner parts of the crown is removed with the leaving of the protective link, which consists of a part of the central conductor, above Skeletal branch by 15-20 cm, with a small side sprig at the upper end.

In the process of how to bring fruit trees, the growth of the skeletal branches is to be directed so that after the end of the formation the upper end of each skeletal branch was from the central axis of the crown at a distance of 2.5 m, which ensures the strength of the skeletal branch during fruiting and frees from additional work Installation PORT for skeletal branches. Skeletal and semi-honeymake branches should not be located one over the other, as it will impede the lighting of the leaves with the sunlight of the following branches.

Formation of the crown of young fruit trees

For the 7-8th year after planting, apple trees are translated into a fruitful group. The second stage begins in the life of the tree - the period of growth and fruiting. During this period, an active growth and increase in crops is observed. It lasts about 3-4 years to 10-11 years old trees. How to make a trimming of young fruit trees entering fruiting?

The formation of the crown by this time is already completed. The task of trimming is reduced to the following primary moments: Sanitary trimming; remove the dead and broken branches; Hold the crown in a certain amount due to the trimming of a highly growing branches on the side branches.

In the thickened crowns in varieties with good future education (in the apple tree - anise and some others) carry out, that is, they remove some of the extra branches that thicken the crown, on the ring or side branch, directed into the branch-free part of the crown.

And how to properly cut fruit trees with a weak future formation? For such cultures, there are further shortening of shoots in order to create additional semi-honeymake branches.

On the video "Trimming fruit trees" is shown how to form the crown of young crops entering the period of fruiting:

How to trim the branches of medium and old fruit trees (with video)

In the third (medium) period of life of the fruit tree, which for apple trees in the middle strip conditions lasts about 11 to 16 - 18 years after landing, conduct sanitary trimming, remove broken and dry branches. With the need to carry out that it is dried. Hold a certain amount of crown by transfer to lateral branches. To bring the fruit trimming during this period correctly, as advice experienced gardeners, for equilibrium growth and fruiting at the bottom of the crown, remove down branches that interfere with the processing of the soil.

The period of fruiting and planting growth in an apple tree in the middle strip conditions lasts from about 17-19 to 25 years after landing. At this time, there is a decrease in the annual growth of shoots up to 25 cm and less. This leads to overloading the tree harvest, which in turn causes a decrease in the winter hardiness, enhancing the frequency of fruiting, grinding fruit. How to cut old fruit trees right? The main task of this agrotechnical admission in this period is the rejuvenation of wood, shortening the branches on a strong increase in past years (more than 30-40 cm), which cuts on 1/3 of its length from above. It restores the activity of the growth of shoots.

In addition to the rejuvenating trimming, this period is carried out sanitary trimming, thinning and removal of disclaiming branches that interfere with the processing of the soil.

In the fifth period of the tree of wood, the branches are observed. Productivity decreases sharply, so the garden is crushed.

Look at the video, how to cut the trees fruit on the third and fourth period of life:

How to properly cut the bone fruit trees

Separately, it is worth telling how to properly trim the bone fruit trees, since the agropriates for these crops have a number of differences from the formation of seed plants.

They are divided into bush (LOMS; dessert Volzhskaya et al.) And the tree (Amorel is early, etc.). The fruiting of cherry bush varieties prevails on long annual growths. Floral kidneys Locked on the sides of the sprigs. The fruction of tree varieties of cherry focuses mainly on bakery branches. Due to the good branching of the cherry in the first age periods of the tree's life, shortening increases are limited. Over the years, Crohn is thinned. When trimming cherry, it is necessary to avoid the application of large wounds, which usually leads to gaming. The height of the Cherry Stamper is given in 40-50 cm. The trees of tree varieties of cherries form, as well as apple trees, on a rarely-long system.

Kustoid grades are also formed by a cutting system, but the distance between the tier and the next skeletal branch is given in 40 cm. The same distance is given between single skeletal branches.

And how to cut the bone fruit trees during the attenuation of the growth of shoots (less than 25 cm)? At this time, the formation is carried out on the side branches located on the wood of 2-3 years of age.

How to make a trimming of frozen fruit trees

Trimming the frozen trees. In the harsh winters, the frozen trees frozen are observed in one degree or another. It may be strong, medium and weak.

With severe frosty damage to the bark, Cambia and wood in young apple trees, from 1 to 3 years after landing (dark brown color of the cortex, cambia and wood), the above-ground part of the tree is cut to the snow cover line. Part of the trunk above the vaccination located under the snow, in this case gives good one-year shoots. In the spring of next year, one escape is chosen to create crowns, trimming it at an altitude of 90 cm from the soil surface. The rest of the shoots are removed on the ring. On a strain to a height of 50 cm, all growth growths are removed. The next year begin to lay the first tier of three skeletal branches. Then there is an ordinary forming trimming, as described above.

Having good root system, trees quickly restore the crown that does not have any traces of frozen.

Young trees with a weak degree of frozen crop as usual. Trees from three to eight years, not overloaded with harvest, are rarely subjected to strong frost damage. Apple tree trees in fruiting age, having weak frosty damage (light yellow wood painting, light green coloring of Cambia), cut as usual. Fruit trees with strong frost damage cuts slightly later when the zone is designated with a good rustling of shoots. Pruning is carried out on a living, well-growing part of the branch.

When they bring fruit trees: the correct time

Many beginner gardeners are interested in when they bring fruit trees to be better fruiting? The best month for trimming in the conditions of the middle strip is March - the beginning of April, before the start of the downwardness, when the danger of severe frost passes. Autumn pruning is allowed, but subject to some precautionary measures. It is impossible to apply large wounds when trimming fruit trees in autumn on the central conductor and in skeletal branches. In this case, if there is a need to remove one or another big branch, it is not removed not to the ring and leave a protective link consisting of a small bottom of the branch removed with a small side sprig at the end. In the absence of a close branch, a spike is 10-15 cm long, which can be cut in spring.

Trimming in the fall is mostly sanitary trimming: Removal of dead, broken, patient branches, removal of rubbing branches, subject to the described precautionary measures. The rejuvenating trimming of fruit trees within this period is carried out along the periphery of the crown, when large branches are not affected, can also be carried out during the fall, winter warm days and spring to be ashes.

Cooking the bone fruit is produced in the spring, and the wiggle of the RAS is performed immediately after trimming.

Garden Var, petrolatum, oil paint, diluted on a natural olife, use the wound wounds. When using oil paint, divorced on an artificial olive, there are burns of bark. For the convenience of grouting wounds, oil paint take an easy wand with a length of about 1.5 m, at the end of which perpendicular to it is tied up with a brush. Oil paint poured into a small bucket. With this device, you can paint the wound at any height, without climbing the tree. Petrolatum when working, you need to warm up a little to be soft. To lure the wound with a diameter of 1 cm or more.

Look at the video "Crouching fruit trees in autumn and spring" to better imagine how to perform these agrotechnical techniques to perform:

Technology trimming fruit trees

The technology of trimming fruit trees provides a cut on the ring, on a protective link, on the kidney and on the side branch.

The cut on the ring is such a section when it is carried out parallel to the thickening exhibiting at the base of the branch. The branch is removed, and the thickening remains.

Thickening is a warehouse of the nutrients required for the rapid grazing of the Rape. Incorrect cuts on the ring are such cuts, when the thickening is removed together with the branch, which causes a large, long-having wound long, or when there is no kidney paste and side branches along with a drying, which often forms a hop.

When the branch is removed on the ring, you must first cut it from below, and then cut from above. In this case, there will be no bark.

When removing Tolstoy, the large branch is cut into two receptions: first scold the upper half and then the bottom.

Protecting on a protective link is used when removing large branches from autumn, when removing a central conductor after the end of the formation, when translating a thicker branch on a thinner side branch. A cut on the kidney of annual apple growths is best to do with the leaving of the spike about 2 mm above the kidney-left. The side branch with an elevated position is cut into the outside night, and the branches with a large slope are cut into the inner kidney, which, when the branch is tilted, occupies the upper position.

Inventory for forming trimming fruit trees

Before carrying out the pruning of fruit trees, you need to get the necessary inventory. For trimming of shoots and branches, manual secateurs are used. It consists of two parts: one piece of handle with a convex cutting blade at the end and the second with a concave reference blade. Both parts are connected by a hinge with a nut at the end. With the help of the nut, the gap between the cutting blade and the reference blade is regulated. For trimming branches, located high in the crown, suchcores are used, which is also called the air secaterator. The cutting part of the suchkoresis is activated with the help of the twine.

Larger branches are drunk with garden saws that have different shapes. When cutting, spikes use a garden knife.

To trim the branches of fruit trees correctly, as it should be for good growth and fruiting, as well as to increase productivity and the quality of the cut, the garden inventory must be well sharpened. For a point and edit tool, you need to have a bar, downtown, a file, a wrapping for pylons.