They enjoy well-deserved popularity, the process of their construction is associated with high material costs. If you look at things soberly, a wooden fence cannot be built cheaply, and even the considered inexpensive type of fencing from a mesh netting, upon detailed examination and calculation of the estimate, can punch a hole in the family budget. And if you add time and physical effort to the total, it is not surprising that FORUMHOUSE users are looking for ways to simplify and reduce the cost of the construction process.

Of whatmake a cheap fence to the country with their own hands

Then, putting them along the line, he hammered them with a sledgehammer 1 meter into the ground, at a distance of no more than 2 meters from each other.

After that, I painted the overhead part and connected all the posts with twine in 4 lines.

WAAD

At the upper ends of the posts, I twisted 2 turns of thick copper wire. This is necessary so that the twine does not fly off. He pulled the twine, wrapping it once around the post, going sequentially - from the bottom up. This ensures good tension. If you start pulling the twine from top to bottom, then when you pull the lower lines, the upper ones will weaken.

Stretching the twine, Nikolai "threw" the cable, and the cable did not twine around the posts, but let it go along a tangent (this should compensate for the lengthening / shortening of the cable length in cold weather), screwing it with a wire twist clamp. Moreover, the cable does not go into a tightness, but with a small sagging, 1 cm on each span, and then it is already stretched by twisting it with a twine.

Having received the basis, WAAD I simply threw the net over the upper part of the structure, as if hanging the sheet on a rope to dry, and then grabbed the lower part with twine.

But the easiest way to make potholders is plastic ties, without tightening them to the end, providing a free play of 1-1.5 cm.

Important: we grab the net only at the bottom, and do not fasten it to the posts. Otherwise, in the places of "tack" it will be torn by the wind, right up to the formation of holes.

Not all cheap types of fences can boast of strength and durability. But here the result is a light, rather opaque extra-budget fence, which has a low windage, because the mesh allows air to pass through. In terms of reliability, it even surpasses other cheap fences without a foundation. A test by strong winds showed that the fence does not fall (it only bends by 2-3 cm, and due to the elasticity of the posts, it immediately returns to its original position). The mesh practically does not fade in the sun, does not tear, does not pop, only sways a little.

There is practically no snow load. The fence also performs a security function. It is impossible to climb over it - the columns are springy. Do not break the mesh, just cut it with a knife. Crawling under the fence is also impossible. The lower cable can only be raised by 20-30 cm. It will not work either by throwing the cigarette butt on fire.

How to make an inexpensive fence around your home.

WAAD

I myself did not expect that the fence would turn out to be so strong, and the installation would be so easy and quick even for one person. The fence is green, it merges with nature and does not look like a foreign element on the site, and by raising the lower edge, you can push the mower under the canvas and calmly mow the grass.

If repairs are necessary (a hole has appeared in the fence, or over time it has faded a little, etc.), there is no need to change the entire material of the fence. We buy the cheapest "facade" roll with a density of 35 g / sq. m, we transfer it to the old one, tie it up, and the fence is as good as new. The fence and reinforcement column itself does not stick out from the ground by the forces of frost heaving, and if necessary, it can be corrected with a “light movement of the hand”.

The fence fabric follows the topography of the site, flowing around all irregularities, and allows air to pass through the cells without the formation of stagnant zones, which is important for plant growth.

Also, such a fence is optimal as a temporary - intermediate fence, before the construction of a capital fence during the construction of a house, it is also an excellent budget fence from neighbors.

Despite the ease of installation, before making such a budget fence for a summer residence, you should pay attention to a number of nuances and recommendations developed during its operation. In order for the extreme post to provide support during tension, and not to bend (since it has the maximum load), Nikolai hammered in an additional spacer post at an angle of about 45 degrees.

In my opinion, the best way material is a mesh 4 m wide, with a density of 75 to 90 g / sq. m, thrown in two layers. Single-layer fabric, density 35 g / sq. m, practically transparent and capable, perhaps, of performing the function of an obstacle.

The double mesh is more technologically advanced during installation (I threw it over and forgot, without puzzling, how to fix its upper edge), it is more durable and better protects from prying eyes in comparison with a single-layer, but double density. When two nets are layered, the canvases are forced to overlap each other, which makes this budget fence completely opaque.

To simplify all the work, Nikolai also advises to completely abandon the use of twine, because the cable practically does not shorten in cold weather. Therefore, we buy a cable with a diameter of 3 mm in a PVC sheath (this is quite enough) and, wrapping the posts with one loop, we start them, as already described above. Moreover, we throw the upper cable not to the side of the top of the post, but directly above it, making a wire winding.

We offer you to watch our video about how to fence off your site from the world with a translucent wooden fence, and another video about the construction of a fence made of corrugated board.

In this case, the upper part of the canvas will lie perfectly flat and the ends of the posts will not be visible. Alternatively, instead of a cable, you can use wire or reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm on the "lags", grabbing it pointwise by welding. Our construction of a fence in the country has been successfully completed!

And after watching our video, you can see the fence made of the facade mesh "live" and get acquainted with other secrets of country life from WAADа.

One of the most inexpensive fences for a summer cottage or a private house is from corrugated board. Its design is simple - dug-in pillars, to which transverse lags are attached. A profiled sheet is attached to this lattice with screws or rivets. Everything is really simple, especially if you know how to use welding machine... Although there is a technology without welding - on bolts or on wooden beams. In any case, you can build a fence made of corrugated board with your own hands. You can do all the work alone, if necessary, but when mounting sheets it is more convenient with an assistant.

Metal post construction

The simplest manufacture is a fence with metal pillars dug into the ground. You can use pipes of round or square section, but it is more convenient to work with square - profiled.

The length of the pillars is taken depending on the desired height of the fence, plus from 1 to 1.5 meters is added for deepening into the ground. It is necessary to bury in the ground below the depth of soil freezing. For each region, the soil freezes to a different depth, but in Middle lane In Russia, this is about 1.2 m. When determining the depth to which you bury the pipes, it is better to play it safe and make the holes deeper. Otherwise, the forces of winter heaving of the rack will simply be pushed out, and your fence will fall down (see photo).

For pillars, a profiled pipe with a cross section of 60 * 60 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm is usually taken. The distance between the posts is from 2 to 3 meters. The thicker the profiled sheet, the less often the posts can be placed. If the soil is hard to dig, it makes sense to make the distances longer, otherwise you can save on the purchase of metal - the thinner, the cheaper and the difference in price is significant.

Lags for a fence from a profiled sheet are made from a profile pipe of 40 * 20 or 30 * 20 mm. The second option is wooden blocks 70 * 40 or so. When using wood, a significant amount is saved, but the wood disappears faster, and besides, it jars from moisture. Most likely in a few years you will have to change the lags, and they will already be metal. But as an economical option, it will go for several years.

When making a fence from corrugated board with your own hands with wooden logs, do not forget to carefully treat the wood with an antibacterial compound (for example, Senezh Ultra). It is better to do this in the bathroom - immerse the bars for 20 minutes in the solution completely. This way they will last longer.

The number of lags depends on the height of the fence. Up to 2 meters - two are enough, from 2.2 to 3.0 meters you need 3 guides, even higher - 4.

Methods for attaching the lag to the pillars

Metal logs are welded either between the posts or in the front. The first method is more laborious, and more waste is obtained: you have to cut the pipes into pieces. But with such an arrangement, the lag structure turns out to be more rigid: each pillar serves as a support for the sheet and it “walks” less, if desired, you can put a couple of additional fasteners along it.

If you weld pipes in front of the post (from the side of the street), there is less work, but you still have to cut and there will be waste: it is necessary that the welded seam of the two sections falls on the post. Unless you guess the distance so that they lie flat. Then you purchase the materials in advance, and then calculate the step of installing the pillars.

To fasten wooden bars, holders are welded in front or on the sides - metal corners or U-shaped guides. Holes are then drilled in them and fastened with bolts or self-tapping screws.

There is an option to assemble a fence from corrugated board without welding. For this there is a special fastener called X-bracket. This is a cross-shaped plate with curved edges, which is attached to self-tapping screws.

Decking for fences

For fences, a profiled sheet with marking C is used - for fences and walls. There are also H and NS, but they are not suitable for fences - this is more roofing materials... A and R markings are rare, A profiles can be used for fences.

In the marking, after the letter, there is a number - from 8 to 35. It indicates the height of the rib in millimeters. So C8 means that the profiled sheet is intended for a fence, and the wave height is 8 mm. The higher the wave height, the more rigid the surface will be. In strong winds, take at least C10, or even C20.

Sheet thickness - from 0.4 to 0.8 mm. Most the best option- thickness 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm. They are suitable for fences up to 2.5 m in height. If you need a higher one, take at least 0.6 mm.

The height of the leaf is usually in the region of 2 meters, you can find 2.5 m. The width can be very different - from 40 cm to 12 meters. Different factories produce corrugated board of different format.

Decking can be galvanized or painted (painted 15-25% more expensive than galvanized). Two types of paint are applied: powder and polymer coating. Powder coating is more durable but also more expensive.

There are sheets painted on one side - on the other there is galvanized, coated with primer gray, there is - with two. Double-sided coating is naturally more expensive than one-sided painting, but the look is better, and the service life is longer.

Support pipes and fence logs are usually primed, then painted. And somehow it happened that they were painted with dark paint. Having then attached to them a profiled sheet painted on one side, a clearly visible "skeleton" on a light gray background is obtained. In a small area, this can be critical. Pay attention, and when building a fence made of corrugated board with your own hands, paint the supporting frame in a light gray color. The result will please you: it looks much better from the yard.

How to attach a profiled sheet to the frame

The sheet is fastened with self-tapping screws or rivets. Self-tapping screws for the profiled sheet are galvanized, there are painted. Pick them up to match the color of the fence. Tighten with a screwdriver using a nozzle.

The installation step depends on the wavelength and the height of the fence. The higher the fence, the more often you need to install fasteners. It holds well, if fastened through a wave to increase strength, with two lags it can be fastened in a checkerboard pattern, and not one above the other.

When installing, it is important to set the first sheet vertically. Then all the rest will be installed without problems. When stacking sheets, the next one goes to the one already set on 1 wave. Attached to the bottom of the wave. The self-tapping screw must be installed strictly perpendicularly. Then the hole is closed with a washer and deposits will not cause the paint to peel off.

For information on how one can attach a professional sheet to a fence, watch the video.

DIY fence made of corrugated board: photo report

A fence was built from neighbors and a frontal one. The total length is 50 meters, the height is 2.5 m. On the front one is used a brown profiled sheet, on the border - galvanized, thickness 0.5 mm, grade C8.

In addition, the following materials were sent:

• on the posts a profiled pipe 60 * 60 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, pipes 3 m long;
• 80 * 80 mm with a wall of 3 mm were placed on the pillars of gates and wickets;
• lags 30 * 30 mm;
• gate and wicket frame 40 * 40 mm;

A ready-made fence made of corrugated board with his own hands was built by one person

The fence is installed on metal pillars, between which the basement is then poured. It is necessary for the owners, since it is planned to set up a flower garden in front of the fence (you can see the fence made under it). It is also needed so that water does not flood the yard during heavy downpours. The metal sheets are not attached immediately from the ground, but retreated a little. This gap is closed by a die cut - a tape that remains in some industries. This is done on purpose so as not to block the air supply, so that the earth dries out faster.

Metal preparation

The first stage is the preparation of the pipes. The pipe comes from the warehouse rusty, so that it will serve for a long time, you have to clean it off, then treat it with "Anti-rust" and then paint. It is more convenient to first prepare all the pipes, prime and paint, then just start installation. The rust was cleaned off with a metal brush mounted on a grinder.

The pipes in the warehouse were only 6 meters long. Since the height of the fence is 2.5 meters, you need to bury another 1.3 meters, the total length of the post should be 3.8 meters. To save money, they cut it in half into 3-meter pieces, and the missing piece was supplemented with various scrap metal available on the farm: cut corners, fittings, pieces of different pipes. Then everything was cleaned, primed and painted.

Installation of pillars

The first were two corner posts. The holes were drilled with a store-bought drill. The soil is normal, it took about 20 minutes for one hole 1.3 meters deep.

The first pillar was set horizontally and so that it rose to a height of 2.5 meters above the ground. To set the second one, it was necessary to recapture the height. Used a water level. You need to fill it in so that there are no bubbles - from a bucket, not from the tap, otherwise it will lie.

They set up the second post along the broken mark (they put it on the bar, which was placed next to the hole) and concreted. When the cement seized, twine was pulled between the posts, along which all the others were aligned.

The filling technology was standard: a double folded roofing material was installed in the hole. A pipe was placed inside, poured with concrete (M250) and placed vertically. The level was controlled with a plumb line. Correctly positioning the pillars is very important, otherwise the entire fence will skew.

In the process of work, it turned out several times that the concrete was poured not inside the rolled roofing material, but between it and the walls of the pit. Raking it out of there is a small pleasure, because the protruding part was cut into petals, nailed to the ground with large nails. Problem solved.

After the concrete had set, a portable formwork was made from boards covered with dense film. With their help, the basement was poured. To make it stronger, reinforcement rods are welded to the pillars on both sides along the bottom. Formwork was placed around them.

Installation of jumpers

The cleaned, primed and painted crossbeam pipes were cut and welded. Cooked between the pillars. They are also tedious to put in a level to make it easier to fix.

After the welding is over, all welds are cleaned with a wire brush, treated with "Anti-rust" and then painted.

Installation of a profiled sheet

Since the upper lintel runs along the very top of the fence, and it is welded exactly to the level, there were no problems with alignment and installation of the sheets. They were fastened first along the edges, then intermediate screws were installed. To make it easier to place them evenly, a thread was pulled between the extreme ones.

Smoothly installed fasteners are also beautiful

Then the gate was welded and attached. As a final touch, additional elements are installed on top - a U-shaped profile that covers the top of the fence and plugs for pipes.

As you understand, there is nothing particularly difficult. It is important to set the pillars straight and weld the frame. This is the main task. A lot of time - about 60% is spent on preparing pipes - cleaning, priming, painting.

Fence made of profiled sheet with brick pillars

Of course, a fence with brick pillars looks more decorative. If you wish, you can do it, but it will take more time. There are two options:

• Make a full-fledged strip foundation. But it is long and expensive. On well-drained soils, you can make a shallow foundation, on heaving soils you will have to bury yourself below the depth of soil freezing. And although the tape will not be wide, there is a lot of work - to dig a trench for the entire length of the fence, put formwork, knit reinforcement, pour and then finish. Put brick pillars on top. Strong, reliable, but expensive.
• Make according to the scheme described above: bearing pillars with a base. Brick is laid around the pillars. This method is less expensive. About,

The whole technology is the same, only the reinforcement will be more rigid - two belts of two rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It will be necessary to install embedded elements in the pillars, to which the guides will be attached. They (mortgages) can be welded to the pipe, after it has been exposed and the mortar has set.

Photo of the design of fences from a professional sheet

Often, a profiled sheet is combined with forging, sometimes a frame is cooked from a profiled pipe, a profiled sheet is mounted into it, and all this is decorated with metal patterns - forged or welded. Another option to make the fence non-standard is to install the wave not vertically, but horizontally. It would seem a small change, but the view is different. Some ideas in the photo gallery below.

Foreword

As practice shows, everyone can put a fence on the site. Even the most massive structures can be easily installed if you approach the work responsibly and first perform the appropriate preparatory measures.

Content

Fences on the video.

As practice shows, everyone can put a fence on the site. Even the most massive structures can be easily installed if you approach the work responsibly and first perform the appropriate preparatory measures. Installing a fence in the country is not only an attempt to protect the territory from prying eyes and uninvited guests. It is also the decoration of the site, giving it completeness.

In the concept of "correct fence in the country" everyone puts their own vision of this fence. It can be both wire fencing, and fences made of logs, reinforced concrete, corrugated board and decorative concrete, sectional and forged fences and much more. From such a variety, you can always choose suitable option... At the same time, it is important that the fence is made of the same material as the gate and fits into overall design plot.

Like the construction of a gate, the correct installation of a fence or fence requires preliminary work - preparation of the construction site and concreting of the support pillars. Completion of all work - painting the finished gate and fence.

Speaking about different types of fences, do not forget about such a fence option as hedge from shrubs planted close to each other. A hedge not only limits space and protects the site from wind and dust, but also looks much more beautiful and aesthetically pleasing than a conventional fence. From a design point of view, a hedge is preferable for small area, on which it is impossible to use more voluminous elements landscape design... This version of the fence is more practical and economical, since you do not have to spend money on building materials.

In this article, you will learn how to properly make a fence at a summer cottage with your own hands, using different types designs.

Preparing to install a fence at a summer cottage

For concreting the fence supports, you will need a garden and earthen drill, a level, a bayonet shovel, a drill, concrete mortar, a wooden beam, reinforcement, roofing material, as well as plastic bags.

The first thing that needs to be done is to prepare for the installation of the fence at the summer cottage, that is, to clear the place where the supports will be installed. To do this, using a bayonet shovel at the selected place, you need to cut off the sod, remove the roots and dig a hole 1.5 m deep.

You can also use a garden drill, then the size of the hole will depend on its diameter. But in any case, it is necessary to drill as deep as possible - by 1.5-1.7 m, that is, to the depth of soil freezing. It is better to take out the excavated soil immediately to a place designated in advance for this. If the diameter of the garden drill is small, an earth auger should be used.

Having drilled a well of the required depth, the expander should be immersed in it on a plow - a device with which an anchor expansion is made in the lower part of the well. This expansion is done so that in cold weather the pillar-support is not pushed out of it, but remains in place.

Before putting up a fence with your own hands, you need to take care of isolation from groundwater. To do this, a pipe is made of roofing material, on one end of which a plastic bag is put on, and the structure is placed in the dug hole. To keep the tube in place, you can build a low box-formwork from the scraps of boards and install it above the ground level. After that, you can start concreting the supports.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to make the foundation of the fence with your own hands in the country.

How to make the foundation of a fence in the country with your own hands (with photo and video)

Before installing the fence, in order to increase the stability and strength of the structure, first metal supports are hammered into the ground, which are then concreted by pouring the solution into the well. This method of concreting significantly increases the resistance to loosening of the fence by the wind and its deformation due to seasonal swelling of the soil. This method is called spot concreting.

There are other ways to provide the fence with a reliable foundation, for example, dry concreting, when the support post of the fence is immersed in the well, covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, and then filled with water for better adhesion. But a heavy or massive fence on such supports may not withstand heavy loads and will loosen over time. Therefore, this method of concreting supports can only be suitable for a light, elegant fence.

Under the fence can also be tape, and although this method is more expensive and time consuming, it is nevertheless very reliable. Before making a fence with your own hands, you first need to dig trenches. Their depth depends on the height of the fence: the higher the structure, the deeper the trenches should be and the heavier the underground part of the fence, otherwise it will collapse if it is made of logs or other heavy material. For example, if the height of the fence is 1.8 m, then the depth of the trench should be at least 0.5 m and plus another 20 cm for the sand cushion.

Then, according to the correct technology for installing the fence, concrete pouring is performed or a base of crushed stone is laid. Concrete foundation it is necessary to withdraw only to ground level or slightly higher, then the above-ground part will become the base of the fence. To build a fence with your own hands, when laying a stone tape, you need to select pieces of rock so that they fit as tightly as possible to one another.

If there are voids between large stones, they should be filled with smaller pieces of stone. After that, the stones will be laid out in this way, the foundation is cemented.

These photos show how to make the foundation of the fence with your own hands:

All methods of concreting ensure the stability of the structure, make it more durable and protect the metal pillars from corrosion.

During the melting of snow, due to the close standing of groundwater to the surface of the earth, the water level rises and pushes the structure up. Then the support pillar sticks out of the ground along with the concrete, which cracks at the same time. And this is perhaps the only drawback of this method of strengthening the supports, but it is extremely rare. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to find out how close the groundwater is to the surface of the earth in a given area.

Watch the video on how to make the foundation of a fence with your own hands, observing all technological rules:

Do-it-yourself fence installation technology from a chain-link mesh

The chain-link mesh is considered one of the most popular types of metal fencing. This structure is inexpensive, easy to install and at the same time very durable.

The mesh-netting, unfortunately, cannot hide the site from prying eyes, but in some summer cottage communities, just such a through fence between the sites is required. Where this is not necessary, you can find a way out by planting shrubs along the fence or climbing plants... They will create a green fence and help you hide from prying eyes, and in addition, they will protect the site from wind and dust.

Before you install such a fence correctly, keep in mind that the chain-link mesh can be of several types - black, galvanized and polymer-coated. A black chain-link is the cheapest and easiest way to protect a site. This mesh looks quite decent, and you can paint it once every 3-4 years. There is no need to paint the galvanized mesh at all, it will last long enough, but it costs a little more. Polymer-coated mesh is the most expensive, but it also looks expensive. Usually, such a mesh is green and goes well with the greenery on the site, without spoiling its overall appearance. In addition, you can buy this type of mesh complete with support posts, a tensioner and a ready-made wicket and gate.

It is not difficult to install a fence from a mesh-netting on a site on your own, as practice shows. To begin with, you should take all the necessary measurements (the perimeter of the site), then purchase the material. The chain-link is sold in rolls; you just need to measure the mesh of the required length from the roll. Next, you need galvanized iron pipes with a diameter of 70 mm for the support pillars. To install the corner support pillars, metal supports are additionally used (two for each pillar).

To install such a fence with your own hands, you will also need intermediate pillars (iron or wooden) with a diameter of 30-35 mm, wire rod with a cross section of 3 mm and a length equal to the length of the fence, plus a small margin for fastening to the support pillars. In addition, you will need bolts with a necessarily large eye for the tie, a knitting wire with a cross section of 2 mm, as well as concrete mortar for pouring the pillars.

Before you install a chain-link fence with your own hands, you need to mark the fence, outline the contours of the holes for installing support and intermediate pillars. Typically, support pillars are installed every 8-10 m, and the distance between the intermediate ones is approximately 3 m.

Then pits are dug for the support pillars with a depth of 0.6-0.7 m. For intermediate pillars, it is quite enough that the depth of the pit is 0.4 m. For the supports of the corner pillars, not very deep pits are also dug out.

After that, the pillars are installed, the side supports are attached to the corner ones. In each tension post, using a drill, you need to make 2-3 through holes, through which transverse veins of wire rod will be stretched.

The next step in installing a fence from a chain-link mesh on the site is to check how level the support pillars are, moisten the earth in the pits and fill them with concrete. The concrete must be poured into the pits up to half, and the rest must be filled with earth. The concrete solution will harden in a day, then it will be possible to continue work.

In each hole drilled in the corner support pillars, insert one tie bolt and secure them with nuts, and then tighten the transverse veins from the wire rod. First, the bottom vein is tightened - one end of the wire is fixed in the ear of the first tie bolt, then it is strongly stretched, carried to the next corner post and fixed in the second tie bolt, etc. The ends of all the veins must be tightened very tightly. Veins can be tied to the intermediate posts with soft wire. If wooden intermediate posts are used, then the veins can be attached to them using staples that are easily driven into the wood.

Having pulled all the veins, the netting itself is attached to them. In accordance with the correct installation technology for such a fence, it must be fastened at regular intervals using soft wire. The edges of the net on the supporting outer posts should be fixed with soft wire, wrapping it several times around the post and at the same time capturing the edges of the net.

After you have installed the fence, you can proceed with the installation of the wicket and gate.

Installing simple fences with your own hands (with video)

A wire fence is the simplest and cheapest type of fence that you can install yourself. The wire fence allows you to exactly repeat the terrain, which is especially important for areas with difficult terrain. But over time, such a fence can sag, and gaps are formed, especially if the wire is not initially stretched very tightly. Such a fence will not look very nice, so it is important to do everything correctly and efficiently from the very beginning.

At first, just as when pulling the netting, the supporting and intermediate pillars are installed and concreted, and then the wire is attached to them in parallel rows. The distance between the rows of wire should be 20-25 cm.

As shown in the photo, when installing such a fence with your own hands, you need to pull the wire and fasten it to the posts very strongly so that it does not sag:

For greater strength of such a fence, intermediate vertical wire broaches are sometimes made, which are fastened to horizontal rows with soft wire.

Sectional fences make the work much easier, as they are manufactured in the factory and sold in ready-made sections. As with the previous methods of work, the support pillars are first installed, to which they are then attached with screws or the finished sections are welded.

The sectional fence serves for a very long time, in addition, it does not require special care- metal spans of such a fence can be painted once every 3-4 years. Such a fence gives the site an exquisite and complete look, only its cost can confuse. Therefore, if the site is very large, it is worth thinking about how much such a fence will cost, and maybe choose something simpler.

This video shows how to put the simplest fence with your own hands:

How to make beautiful forged and log fences with your own hands (with video)

Like sectional fencing, wrought iron fences have taken their rightful place among other types of garden fences. They are very expensive, but once you spend on such a fence, you can avoid unnecessary hassle in the future. As they say, this is a fence for life, not to mention the fact that it looks flawless and majestic, complementing general form plot. It is set like this beautiful fence with your own hands, just like the fences described above, only to install the support pillars, you will need to dig deeper holes so that the heavy fence does not collapse during operation. To strengthen the structure, you can even dig trenches under the strip foundation, especially if the fence is high enough.

A log fence on a modern site is both reliable protection, and environmental friendliness, and an excellent design solution. The type of such a fence can be different, it all depends on your own preferences and capabilities. To make a beautiful fence with your own hands, logs or hewn boards can be installed vertically, according to the principle of a stockade, or horizontally, close to each other, or at intervals. You can also make an elegant curly fence. Each option has its own pros and cons.

In any case, before building the fence, logs and other wooden parts must be treated with antiseptics.

If, when installing a fence in the country with their own hands, the logs are placed vertically, they are traditionally buried in the ground or poured with a strip foundation. It is also possible to install the logs on a transverse beam raised above the ground, which, in turn, must be attached at the ends to the supporting pillars that divide the entire structure into sections. In the latter case, it becomes possible to fantasize, for example, to supplement the fence with a stone base, on which the logs will then be laid out, or to make a foundation of red or white brick, dividing it into sections with pillars also made of bricks.

A significant disadvantage of log fences is that the logs dug into the ground sooner or later begin to rot, so the lower part of the logs has to be carefully processed. When pouring concrete into the logs, also in order to protect the logs from decay, it is necessary to make a high strip foundation. All this means additional consumption of materials. The most profitable option in this case would be a fence with horizontally laid logs on a stone base. Such a fence will look beautiful and can be kept in good condition for a long time.

If protection is required from the penetration of strangers into the site, a very high fence must be erected. If a decorative fence is planned, then the fence may well be of any height in the ranch style.

As shown in the photo, for a beautiful do-it-yourself log fence, it is better to use rounded logs:

Although this material is more expensive, it will allow you to better fit individual parts. Therefore, a finished fence made of horizontal or vertical rounded logs will look more neat and sound.

In addition, snow does not accumulate between the rows of horizontally laid and perfectly fitted logs, which means that during the thaw there will be less dampness in the joints. And the main thing is that such processed logs no longer require additional finishing.

When installing a vertical log fence, a trench is dug, the depth of which depends on the height of the fence, and support pillars are placed with concrete fill or cement tape. The posts between the sections can be stone, brick or made of metal pipe large section.

Look at the photo of how to make a beautiful fence from logs with your own hands:

When using stone or brick support pillars, a profile must pass in their central part, to which thick metal rods are then welded. They must be welded horizontally, so that they come out of the masonry and fall on the central axis of the logs to be laid later.

In accordance with this, at the ends of the logs, you need to make a hole for the rod on one side and cut to the length of the radius on the other. When stacking, the log will sit on one rod, and move from top to bottom on the other.

To protect the logs from moisture and prevent their rotation, it is recommended to coat the joints with resin or mastic during the installation process.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to properly install a reinforced concrete fence in the country.

How to build a reinforced concrete fence in the country with your own hands (with video)

Reinforced concrete fences are both reliable and elegant and even decorative thanks to the modern production of reinforced concrete products. They have a lot of advantages, but there are a few things to keep in mind when using them.

Reinforced concrete fence provides maximum protection. This is a very strong and impressive structure that allows you to enclose a plot of any area - both small and huge, with both simple and complex relief. There are movable types of fences that, if necessary, can be easily disassembled and assembled, there are also those with which you can create intricate shapes and figures. There are also decorative fences made of concrete, which have a variety of texture, color and other decorative elements.

A fence made of reinforced concrete is heat and moisture resistant. It can withstand any temperature fluctuations, which greatly increases its service life, is easy to install and does not require special knowledge and skills.

However, this type of fences also has its drawbacks - for example, they are very heavy, which complicates their transportation and installation. But even with these disadvantages, a reinforced concrete fence allows, after all the hassle associated with its installation, to forget about it for many years.

There are two types of reinforced concrete fences - prefabricated and independent. The prefabricated ones are mounted in specially made concrete glasses, where the supporting pillars are installed first. Self-contained fences are installed on a special platform that is connected to the base of the fence slab itself.

To make a reinforced concrete fence as it suggests the right technology, it is necessary to mark its contours on the site. Then it will only be necessary to deliver the blocks to the intended places of their installation. And this will require a crane with a lifting capacity of 3-4 tons, a cable of the appropriate lifting capacity, a sledgehammer and a scrap. After the blocks are placed around the perimeter, you can start installing them on site.

To build a reinforced concrete fence in the country with your own hands, depending on the total mass of the finished product, special support pillars and a special foundation are used. Usually a strip or pile concrete foundation is used.

A relatively light fence can be installed on a pile foundation. These fences include concrete products of the M100-M200 brand.

For installation on garden plot a fence made of concrete grade M150-M250 will require a strip foundation on which the entire structure of the fence will rest. Concrete grade М250-М350 indicates availability in monolithic slabs reinforcing elements. These slabs are of the highest quality, respectively, and their weight is greater.

There are decorative slabs imitating brick, stone, wood, etc. They can be smooth or embossed, deaf or through, including metal sections. The possibility of dyeing also makes it possible to obtain an original and attractive finished product.

Such structures can be made to order, choosing the type, shape and size of the sections at will. Thus, you can purchase exactly the product that will fully meet the customer's needs. In this case, everything depends on financial capabilities, but by spending on the material for the fence, you can save on its installation.

To build a reinforced concrete fence with your own hands correctly, watch this video:

How to properly install a fence made of corrugated board with your own hands on the site (with video)

Another popular material for building a fence is corrugated board. It is inexpensive, but it looks quite presentable and can last long enough without requiring additional care. The main advantage of corrugated board is the simplicity of building a fence using it.

First, as in all other cases, it is necessary to measure the perimeter of the site, and therefore the length of the fence, in order to determine the required number of corrugated sheets and additional materials. This will depend on the design of the fence and your own preferences. Metal supports are taken as a basis, dug deep into the ground.

Sheets of corrugated board can be fastened to logs from a profile pipe. This construction option will be the easiest and cheapest. If the support pillars are made of brick, concrete or other material, then more time and money will have to be spent on the construction of the fence.

For steel supports, you need to use profile pipes with a cross section of 40 x 25 mm, while the sheets of corrugated board can be up to 2 m high.

Before you put such a fence on the site, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material. This is done as follows: the length of the fence is divided by 3 (by the number of posts) and multiplied by 2 (by the number shaped pipes). The pillars should be installed at a distance of 2.5-3 m from each other, at least two profile pipes for fastening metal sheets are required. This is a standard calculation, but the numbers can be adjusted at your own discretion.

The required number of sheets of corrugated board depends on their width, while it should be borne in mind that it is better to fix the sheets vertically.

Before installing the fence yourself, watch the tutorial video:

When everything you need is bought in a warehouse or building materials market and delivered to the place, you can proceed to preparatory work- clearing the working platform, leveling the ground, marking holes for posts. You can, of course, just drive the pillars into the ground to a depth of 1-1.2 m, but this is not at all easy, so it is better to dig holes and concrete the pillars in them. It is important that they stand even after the concrete has hardened, otherwise the fence will look askew.

When the concrete hardens, logs from small shaped pipes are welded to the support posts. The pipes should be welded to the posts in two rows, although the number of rows may vary as you see fit.

The first line of lags should run at a height of 25 cm from the ground, the second - at the same distance from the upper edge of the fence. You can mark the attachment points directly on the sheets of corrugated board.

The steel sheets can now be attached to the base. It is recommended to do this with the help of roofing screws, which easily fit into the material and very firmly hold the corrugated board. If somewhere the sheets do not fit into the width of the perimeter of the fence in an integer number, you will have to cut them. It is better to do this on the depressions of the corrugated sheet and at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the edge, although this largely depends on the width and thickness of the sheet.

The corrugated board should be fastened as tightly as possible so that there is no free wheeling between the sheets, otherwise in windy weather they will behave like sails.

To prevent water from getting inside the support pillars, it is advisable to weld metal visors to them. This completes the hard work on the construction of the fence, it remains only to paint the pillars and logs.

Fences made of wood and metal need protection from moisture. To prevent possible rotting of wooden structures, you can treat them with creosote. it reliable remedy protection, but it should be borne in mind that creosote stains the surface in brick color... Perhaps this is exactly what is required for a harmonious combination of architectural elements throughout the site. Otherwise, it is better to choose another remedy. In addition, the surface of the product previously covered with creosote cannot be repainted in the future, since creosote always appears through any paint.

Metal structures can be protected from rust by painting with a special metal paint.

This video demonstrates how to properly install a corrugated board fence:

Painting after installing the fence in the garden

For each material used in the building, you need to use the most suitable coloring agent.

There are a lot of types of paints and varnishes, so we will consider only the most popular ones that are suitable for the previously described materials for fences.

After installation, painting the fence with your own hands is done with a brush, spray gun or paint roller. It is not difficult to paint a forged fence, which cannot be said about a mesh-netting, and the smaller its cells, the more difficult it will be to paint over them. A mesh fence is best painted with a brush. The paint roller is suitable for painting solid surfaces such as sheet metal, solid sections, or a solid wood fence. The spray gun is also not suitable for painting through structures, since most of the paint will be wasted. This fixture is suitable for painting large parts or a solid fence.

Wooden fences are most susceptible to rot and mold damage, so they need constant careful maintenance. Covering and glazing antiseptics, as well as acrylate and oil paints are used to protect them.

Antiseptics penetrate deep into the wood and help protect it from destructive external influences.

Covering opaque materials allow you to completely hide the texture of the wood, keeping only its relief.

Glazing materials are translucent, therefore, they allow you to preserve the texture of the wood, only giving it a light shade. Their service life is 3-5 years.

Oil paint penetrates deeply into the wood and serves as a reliable protection against atmospheric agents, but it dries slowly and fade over time. Service life - 5-7 years.

Watch a video of painting a do-it-yourself wooden fence:

Acrylate paint protects wood well from dampness and mold; it retains shine and color longer than oil paint. In addition, it is vapor-permeable, that is, it allows the tree to breathe and has a pleasant elasticity. Service life - 7-9 years.

Before painting, the surface of metal and slate must be cleaned with sandpaper, removing roughness, rust or old peeling paint.

For painting metal structures, paint should be used, first of all, that can protect the surface from corrosion. There are a number of anti-corrosion paints and enamels that help preserve metal structures. Even if rust appears on the metal, it can be dealt with by using a special “converter” paint designed to cover corroded areas.

To cover metal structures, epoxy, rubber, organosilicon, polyvinyl chloride, alkyd and already traditional oil paints... In addition, special varnishes are used - asphalt, bitumen and pitch. Their only drawback is their black color.

It is customary to paint galvanized and aluminum fences with dispersion paint. The service life of such a coating is 5 years.

Slate fences are considered the lowest budget. They are often installed for temporary fencing of the site, although after staining such fences acquire a more aesthetic appearance and look quite dignified. For slate, there is a special paint of both foreign and domestic production, which protects it from the appearance of moss and lichen on it. You can apply paint to the surface with a regular brush, spray gun or roller. Its service life is 8 years.

How to paint a slate or metal fence after installation with your own hands is demonstrated in this video:

So, let's say you already have a summer cottage. Having land, but not having anything else, you need to start somewhere. The construction of a fence in the country is one of the most important issues and is solved first of all. The work to achieve the ultimate goal in this aspect is quite difficult and, given the proper economic situation, it is better to use the services of professionals.

If, nevertheless, you decide to do everything yourself, you need to know a few points and features that will help in this matter. And below all the necessary information is provided so that you fully know how to make a fence in the country with your own hands.

There are several necessary factors that determine the feasibility of a particular building.

For barrier structures, these are:

• The nature of the soil. There are several types of soil, and each of them has different properties that determine the reliability of anchoring the supporting structures. Taking this parameter into account, the depth for the supports and the type of foundation are selected.
• Load of air currents on fences. At different locations of your suburban area the strong influence of winds on the fence and its sheathing is possible. This load parameter is taken into account to determine the required clearances between the sheathed materials (to reduce the effect of air flow).
• Design of the site. Your fence should be in harmony with the rest of the structures. Aesthetic principles must be observed at least due to the plantings as close as possible to the fence from the inside.

The options for constructing a fence for a summer residence are quite diverse, and before you build a fence in a country house with your own hands, you need to know: the materials from which the structures are mounted, their cost and the complexity of the construction process. When buying material, try to do it at one time, otherwise it may vary in size and shade. When setting up a live fence, make sure the organic material hasn't reached its expiration date.

Living fence made of pine needles

In order for no one to interfere with your peace, perhaps a version of brick, concrete or wood is suitable. For lovers original solutions a wrought-iron or hedge fence will do. In addition to the fact that such a fence has a pleasant appearance, its main functions are protection against intrusion and protection against robbery, which should also not be forgotten.

Separately, I would like to focus on the supports during the construction, since they are the guarantee of the long service of the fence.

With a brick design of a barrier structure, ordinary pipes with a large diameter of about 100-150 mm are suitable for supports.

Layout of brickwork pillars

Fencing structures made of corrugated board require a smaller pipe diameter - about 60x60 mm. For a fence made of wood, respectively, wooden blocks are used as supports or logs of a certain thickness, depending on the height of the building you have chosen.

The organization of the supports is a rather painstaking process. The beginning of the installation is the correct marking and installation of the pegs in the places of the future posts. The distance between the supports should be the same and in direct proportion to the height of the fence. The depth to which the supports are buried should be greater than the depth of freezing of the earth. Wooden poles are treated with a special antiseptic before immersion in the ground. When setting the supports, observe one line; for this, a construction plumb line or an ordinary lace will come to your aid.

The scheme of the construction of a fence made of wood

The fixing of the supporting structures is described in the paragraphs below. Before starting work, prepare shovels, drills, cord, measuring tools (rulers, tape measures), electric drill (if necessary) or hammer, rammer and building materials.

The foundation, like the supports, is an important element of the building. Provided you follow all the instructions for organizing the foundation, your fence will serve you for many years. There are two main types of foundation: strip and pole.

Strip foundation

This type of foundation is very strong and is usually used for buildings of a heavy nature. Strip foundation especially effective if buildings need to be made in places with problem soil, for example, on heaving.

Strip foundation diagram

Manufacturing technology

• First of all, dig a hole of about 30-80 cm.With the necessary tolerance and time, for greater strength of the future fence, it is better to go deeper to 150 cm.
• Organize a layer of sand, after filling it with water.
• Reinforcement cells should not be large, reinforcement knitting is the next important step.
• Make the formwork for the fence so that the material from which it is made does not touch the ground (it was raised by 30-50 cm).
• After that, the formwork is poured with concrete, if the supports are mounted in the foundation, this must be done at this stage, observing the level as described earlier.

Column foundation

This type of support structure differs from the previous one in that it serves for lighter erections. It has a huge plus - sufficient economy during construction. If you stick with technological process, then a fence on this foundation will serve you no less than a fence on a strip foundation.

Pillar foundation diagram for supports

Manufacturing technology

• Use a shovel or drill to make holes for the supports 1-1.5 meters deep. The hole should be 15-30 cm wider than the support immersed in it.
• We make a layer of crushed stone and sand, which we fill with water (the thickness of the layer is approximately 20 cm).
• After leveling the pillars, pour sand concrete into the pit and add crushed stone for greater strength.

The foundation is ready. As you can see, the process is not at all complicated and is suitable for fences of all kinds.

Wood fence

Wooden fences for summer cottages can be assembled with your own hands.

Option for building a wooden fence

This operation is quite simple and can be carried out in several points:

• Determine the perimeter of the building.
• We dig trenches for support pillars (depth 25-30 cm, distance from each other 2 or 2.5 meters).
• We expose the columns exactly using the building level.
• We fix the posts in the ground by pouring concrete or cement into the trench.
• For cladding, fasten wooden beams or we nail them (the average size of the bar is from 50x50 mm)
• We mount the crossbars
• We attach pre-prepared boards to the resulting structure, with a gap of 1.5-2 cm (choose the size of the boards yourself, depending on your aesthetic needs, the recommended size is 85x145 mm)
• We carry out Finishing work in the form of painting the resulting structure

Remember: for a long service life of a wooden fence, all boards must be treated with linseed oil before construction, and more than once.

Pros: The material is readily available and inexpensive.

Minuses: wooden fences for giving have a short service life and the need for constant monitoring of the condition (paint, process, etc.).

Brick fence

Pros: great strength and service life (50 years or more), aesthetic appearance.

Brick fence

Cons: High cost and need to build a solid foundation

Fence made of corrugated board

You can make such a fence with your own hands with minimal effort.

To get started, buy sheets of metal, choosing the desired design and looking at the price, having previously calculated the required amount of material. After that, it is necessary to make a markup and perform a few more points in order to get a ready-made barrier structure:

• Dig holes 1-1.2m deep around the entire perimeter.
• In each pit, arrange a crushed stone or gravel pillow 20-25cm thick
• As in the case of a wooden fence, we put the pillars evenly, use a level, and then concrete them for strength.
• Next stage - welding works, weld the logs from the pipe across, observing the same distance between them.
• Using self-tapping screws, screw the metal sheets onto the resulting structure (self-tapping screws for better security can be replaced with metal rivets).

Fence made of corrugated board

Pros: a large selection of material and its aesthetic parameters, practicality and ease of installation, relatively low price, durability.

Cons: not a sufficiently refined general appearance (this is why brick extensions are usually made)

Concrete fence (in the form of slabs)

Pros: Durable material (even stronger than brick buildings), long service life, no need for maintenance, various choices of decorative performance.

Fence made of concrete slabs

Cons: It is very difficult to build with your own hands (you need to use the services of specialists)

Metal fence (forged)

With a sufficient budget of the owner, it is possible to install a forged fence. This type is in great harmony with large buildings and has many positive characteristics.

Pros: forged metal fences for summer cottages have a service life of over 50 years, can take various forms, while maintaining strength, aesthetics, such structures are fireproof.

Forged metal fence

Cons: they are not an obstacle to wind and dust, they let in noise, are expensive, rust, require maintenance.

Metal fence (in the form of sections)

Elements of sections of this type are connected by welding. The fence has a good visual appearance and has many different models.

Pros: Impact resistance, bending capability, fire safety, gives a high level of illumination.

Sectional metal fence

Cons: Sectional fences for summer cottages do not trap wind and dust, do not protect from visual contact with passers-by, and are not suitable for independent installation.

Metal fence (in the form of a grid)

The fence is suitable for small summer cottages. And it can be erected as a temporary replacement for a more powerful fence, or for a permanent long service life.

Self-installation, if you decide on this, begins, like everyone else, with the markup. It is necessary to calculate not only the perimeter and vertical position of the main pillars, but also to allocate space for intermediate supports. Usually, the installation of some pillars is carried out with a distance of 3 meters from each other, and the following after 9. The diameter of the required pipes is indicated in the paragraph on supports, and their installation in the paragraph on the foundation.

Metal mesh fence

The dug-in pillars are connected by props made of metal corners. This can be done by welding or by screwing in the bolts. For additional safety, the wire rod is passed between the posts at different heights, having previously drilled holes in them. This is to prevent a potential intruder from bending your fence mesh.

The last step is to stretch the mesh. You can fix it with bolts, after passing a wire rod through it. The roll with the net begins to unwind near the support posts, gradually, making sure that the folded ends of the net are on top.

Pros: the design is quite reliable and lasts a long time, does not cast a shadow.

Cons: Does not provide the necessary comfort due to its visible design.

Slab fence

In general, the slab is a waste product resulting from sawmill work. The construction of a fence from a slab is quite economical, although according to some experts it does not have a special aesthetic appearance. If you need to save your budget, this is ideal.

Slab fence

If we are building a fence in the country with our own hands from a slab, then it is necessary to observe correct sequence works.

For lovers non-standard solutions a wattle fence is best. Such a design easily harmonizes with any design of a summer cottage and, at the same time, is cheaper than any other options for building a fence. The main disadvantage is short term service, about 3-5 years. In order to make the sheathing, you can use willow or hazel branches, or birch branches. As in other structures, you cannot do without supports. As usual, there are two variants of execution - supports made of wood or metal (the process of their installation is described above).

For weaving, branches of the appropriate length (at least 1.5 meters) and thickness (at least 30 mm) are required. Before starting work, the rods are subject to spot checks. The branches should not be too dry, as this will break the fence. If you break a twig, the middle of it should not have a reddish-brown tint - this is an indicator of excessive dryness.

Remove the bark from the branches and leave them in plain water for a week or two. Use any weight to press down on the rods during the soaking process. After that, you can start the weaving process, it is customary to braid from the bottom up. Copper wire is used as an additional fastening material. A rubber hammer is used to place the rods tightly relative to each other. The ends of the supports are covered to avoid the influence of precipitation. You can close the end surface using galvanized caps or clay caps.

Decoration of a standard fence

Installing a fence in the country is a very common question, but there is another equally interesting one - how can you decorate an existing fence that has nothing to do with design solutions... The answer is very simple - climbing plants, different kinds grapes or ivy will help you refine your building. It is possible to paint the fence or use it as one of the walls of an adjoining gazebo. Plantings in the form of elevated flower beds along the fence are also welcome.

The solution to the decor issues depends on you and your imagination. Building a fence with your own hands is possible with its subsequent decoration in conditions of awareness of the possible options for the execution of both. Having read the material above, you are taking a big step towards meeting new opportunities.

Photo

Below is a gallery of photos of fences for summer cottages, so that you can be convinced of the variety of execution of country fences and can choose the most suitable one for you, which will satisfy all your requirements, ranging from appearance to safety. All images are enlarged to full size by clicking on them.