If you are a happy owner cottage plot, I just sin spend money on the purchase of shopping vegetables and greenery. Accelerate the terms of yield and.

To make a carcass of greenhouses from the profile pipe with their own hands, you will have to spend a certain amount of time, cash and physical effort, but in the end, all the efforts will pay off a hundredfold during the operation of this unique design.

Why precisely profile pipe?

When choosing a material for construction - the profile tube will become the most optimal solution.

We can naturally use wooden rails, but it will have to use maximum protection measures for it, since this material is subjected to rotting, drying and deformation.

The latter look does not have a special advantage, it's just a cup of everything and today is used as a habit, since it was difficult to cover the arrow structure to cover the greenhouse earlier to cover the greenhouse.

And innovative and elastic material - polycarbonate makes it possible to overlap the greenhouses of any kind.

For basic framework frames of the future greenhouse, it is recommended to take the size of the size of 4x2 cm. For horizontal connecting elements, you can use a size profile 2x2 cm.

If you want to make a quality frame of such a design, like a greenhouse from the profile pipe with your own hands - the drawings must be made necessarily. Such a move will make it possible to choose the right size and thereby exclude large metal loss during cutting parts.

Making a metal profile frame with your own hands is not the cheapest pleasure, so the calculation is recommended to be carried out in such a way that no more than one standard pipe size is 6.05m.

The optimal size is calculated as follows when the bustling structure is calculated as follows. If the height is accepted in 1.7 m, then two frames will require 3.4 m pipes, after which there are 2 more, 65 m of the profile.

When taking into account the roof skate, the width of one frame should be 2.25 m. The main thing is to follow, so that after the frame overlapping the frame remains 10 cm of the material on each side on the side skes.

If desired, it is possible to start the manufacture of greenhouses using semicircular frames. Here the design dimensions will be large in comparison with two-tie, which increases the total useful inner area.

But it is worth considering that independent manufacture Arched greenhouse from a square pipe involves the use of such a device as tube bender. Thanks to him, it will be better to bend a profile qualitatively, since you need.

It is worth thinking, because the pricing policy of such a device is very high, and the manufacture of pipe bending using the primary means is not for everyone.

There are several methods of profile bending, without the use of a special apparatus, but such methods will not give the perfect bend and can lead to deformation of expensive material.

Therefore, in order to avoid such difficulties, it is advisable to stop your choice on the two-tie form of home greenhouses.

Foundation selection and bookmark

Here you can choose a few options for the base from wooden sleepers, before the scorn of screw piles.

The most optimal option is the choice of a small monolithic foundation, which is laid with your own hands not deep on one "pin" shovels.

Before making a foundation, an anchor for fastening profile components is installed on all parties. When a concrete mixer freezes the anchors to weld 4x2 cm profiles, which will be a reliable base for installing the future greenhouse frame.

An ordinary belt foundation can also be used for the structure, it will increase the reliability of the structure and its durability.

Video - Installation of the foundation

The process of booking the foundation with their own hands involves a great contribution of physical labor, the presence of free time and accuracy, which must be respected in each action.

Therefore, it is recommended before starting construction to make the manufacture of a drawing of a future design, with the indication of all sizes from which one should not be rejected to avoid unpleasant consequences upon subsequent operation.

The greenhouse houses in the process of construction does not require the use of pipe-bend. To avoid the formation of possible irregularities, it is desirable to collect everything on a straight asphalt platform.

Setting the frame with your own hands

Greenhouses from polycarbonate and proms should be covered only with jacking. It should be carefully traced that the facial side of the material is viewed outward design.

Face parts of polycarbonate sheets are necessarily processed by a silicone-based sealant, which protects them. Calculate that the length of the coating should be more than 10 cm for the height of the profile, to form a skate.

It is not an upper joint of the roof of a metal greenhouse from the proms of the profile, which is attached to the screws on longitudinal bonds.

Installation of polycarbonate on the door and the window is carried out according to the very principle, the main thing is to ensure that its size does not interfere during the operation of these items.

The modern building market presents a large selection of various means that will be able to extend the service time metal carcass and speed up the process of its construction.

Downting the topic and nuances of the process of building structures from profile pipes, it becomes clear that the quality drawing, the manufacture of each element and the technology of the frame coating have the same importance.

In the manufacture of a carcass of greenhouses from a profile pipe with their own hands, you need to have minimal knowledge in architecture and working with metal elements.

One wrong step or calculation will be able to cross all the works, and the right decision will lead to an excellent final result.

If there is a greenhouse on the plot - it means that there will be fresh vegetables, from the resurrection of snow and to the first frosts. It can be bought, but it is better to make homemade in accordance with your preferences. How the greenhouse is welded, the video is shown without details. And beginners in this matter they are important for understanding the nuances of the process.

With equal strength, they are 25% lighter than channels and 2-way beams. The designs of profile pipes have the following advantages:

• due to the square section of the elements, the framework has a high resistance to deformation in all directions;
• a greenhouse or a greenhouse can be made independently, as professional skills are not required for installation;
• the collected design is capable of withstanding significant loads;
• the material does not rot, does not affect mold and fungus;
• with the same weight, their bending resistance due to the roiber of rigidity is more than 30% than at the analogues of the round section;
• the design of the profile is resistant to temperature differences;
• welded structures are more reliable than collected on bolts.

During many years of operation, the disadvantages were not found. However, in the northern regions there were cases when the fasteners of the roof were not held under the weight of raw snow. If regular roof cleaning is not possible, it is recommended to reduce the distance between the farms.

Selection of profile pipe

The range of steel profiles is represented by galvanized, painted, untreated products. It is believed that the coated pipes will serve longer. However, in welded structures in places of connection, the protective layer burns out, and the metal begins to rust quickly. Therefore, choosing pipes with a coating is inappropriate. The raw profile will cost cheaper, and you can paint it yourself after completing the frame of the frame.

If the size of the greenhouse does not exceed 6 × 2 × 2 m, a sufficient tube with an edge of 25 mm and a wall is 2 mm. With large dimensions, a 40 × 20 × 2 or 40 × 40 × 2 mm profile is selected. For horizontal screeds, a pipe 20 × 20 × 1-1.5 mm is suitable.

Selection of shape design

Before starting the project, it is necessary to decide on the appearance of the greenhouse.

There are many different forms, but more often choose the following options:

1. Greenhouses with a duct roof allow you to use the entire area. Due to the change in the angle of inclination of the roof, the issue of snow cleaning is easily solved. However, due to the complexity of the design, the consumption of materials increases.
2. Arched greenhouse is the most popular option. It's not afraid of a strong wind, easily and quickly going. But it is necessary to regularly consider it from it, and a special tool will be required to flexing profile pipes.
3. A-shaped designs are similar to the removed double roof. Collecting at times - two, and about problems with snow you can forget. But in such a greenhouse it is inconvenient to work, and some of the land from the walls will not work.
4. At single-sided greenhouses, the roof is made with a slope in one direction. Usually attached to the house and are used to grow seedlings. The advantages and disadvantages are the same as a duscal option.

In addition to the forms listed, lovers of exotic build tent, dome and other woundings. The rate of crop maturation and its quality in these choir do not increase, and the complexity of installation and the cost of materials increase.

Dimensions and calculation of the amount of material

To properly weld the greenhouse from the profile pipe, when drawing up a project, it is necessary to repel from its length and number of the main elements. Since arcs should be installed after 1 meter, then, for example, for a 6-meter structure, they will need seven pieces. Standard Length The profile pipe is 6010 mm. It is easy to calculate that from her you can bent a semicircle with a radius of 1.9 meters. In order not to translate an expensive material into waste, the height of the arched design should be chosen 1.85 - 1.9 m with width at the bottom of 3.7 - 3.8 m. With these sizes, it is not necessary to cut it with polycarbonate with polycarbonate, the value of which is 6 × 2.1 m.

In order to use the pipes to maximize the height of its wall at a maximum of the height of its wall at an angle of inclination of the roof 30 - 45⁰, it is selected equal to 1.7 - 2 m, and the width is 4 m. The length of the skate will be 2.25 - 2.45 m. The jumpers are installed in the top Point of arc and in the middle part of the skates. On each side of 2 pieces. The rear wall is strengthened by two crossings. On the facade there is a ludge (box, fraumuga) for the door. Based on its size, the number of auxiliary profile is calculated.

Foundation for greenhouse

Depending on the massiveness of the construction base, the greenhouses are made from wood, brick, concrete. The foundation is needed that the greenhouse does not overturn the wind and to protect against the penetration of rodents and other pests. For small structures, it is made of wooden bars.

Sequencing:

1. From the selected area, stones, garbage, vegetation are removed.
2. Marking is carried out by knocked out by the connected thread.
3. If the ground solid foundation is laid without a blowjob. Otherwise, you will have to dig a trench to the depth of the bayonet shovel.
4. It is trambed, and one third of the height falls asleep with sand or gravel.
5. Brux cuts in accordance with the size of the greenhouse and soaked with an antiseptic. You can use bitumen, copper vitriol, machine oil.
6. Metal corners or long screws are used to assemble the box.
7. After its laying in the trench, it is aligned horizontally with a padded sand, land.
8. At the corners of the box, the holes are drilled in which the meter metal bars are inserted and clogged into the ground.
9. The gaps between the walls of the trench and the foundation fall asleep, the bars are covered with rubberoid or other waterproofing material.

For massive structures, a simplified version of the belt foundation is laid. After cleaning and marking the place of installation, the greenhouse is digging shallow, on the bayonet shovel, trench. The bottom falls asleep with sand, put into the ground scores from the profile segments for attaching racks. It doesn't make sense to make the reinforcement frame, as even a very big greenhouse is not so heavy to strengthen the foundation. The formwork is made of trunks, boards, sheet plastic. After filling the trenches, until the concrete grabbed, you need to check the horizontal surface of the foundation and, if necessary, align it.

Manufacturing of a carcass greenhouse

To boil the greenhouse of the arched form from profile pipes, you need to be able to bend them. This service can be provided on metal supplies. An option with the acquisition of an expensive special machine can not be considered. For making with your own hands, arched racks will require a pattern of the desired radius. Bend the pipe without deformation can be three ways:

1. The segment of the desired length is muffled on one side with a wooden plug. After another end, carefully sinking sand is falling asleep until full filling. After installing the plug, the pipe is ready for bending on the template.
2. If the operation is produced in winter, water is poured instead of sand. When the frost processes it in the ice, the profile can be bend.
3. On the tube at an equal gaps of the grinder, cuts of 2/3 depth from its thickness are made. The less radius - the more propilov. After flexion, all seams are brewed.

Racks for bantal structures can be collected from sliced \u200b\u200bin the size of segments, but it is better to make them of solid pipes. First, in the middle of the shoulder, an angular neckline is made and the profile is bent at an angle of 60 °. At a distance of 1700 mm from the ends, the same cuts make it possible to bend the pipe to 30⁰. If the gaps turned out to be large, the wire segments are laid during welding.

Facade and rear racks with welded crossbars, windows, door are installed primarily. They should be placed on a plunder strictly perpendicular, otherwise it is possible throughout the design. On the concrete foundation they are welded to mortgages, and to the wooden base they are fixed with metal corners. After installing intermediate racks, the framework of the frame of the screeds is made.

Wall sheat and roof

To coating the greenhouses, a cellular polycarbonate is used with 4 to 10 mm thick. Material 4 and 6 mm are trimmed seasonal greenhouses, and 8 and 10 mm winter options. So that the sheets do not be bombed under the weight of snow, the attachment points of the 4 mm polycarbonate are located at a 40 to 50 cm interval, at 6 mm - 70 cm. For thicker sheets, a distance of up to 1 m is allowed.

Sequence of the trim:

1. Unpacked sheets, you need to determine which of the parties there is a protective coating.
2. After cutting the sheet on its end, which will be at the bottom, the perforated tape is pasted, which does not prevent condensate condensation on the channels. Sealing the upper end so that rainwater does not fall into the cell is carried out by scotch.
3. The prepared sheet of polycarbonate is attached to the facade of roofing self-drawing. When using a variant with plastic thermoshairs, you must pre-drill holes by 2 mm larger diameter. This will prevent the plating stitching from the thermal expansion of polycarbonate when the temperature changes.
4. Cuts are cut out for vents and doors.
5. Rear wall covering is made similarly.
6. Polycarbonate on the roof and side of the greenhouse is stacked by a protective layer up and fastened with roofing self-draws. Neighboring sheets are put on a blank.

With trim polyethylene film It is attached to the planks, screwed screws or special hoops for arched structures.

Doors and pedeshes

For efficient ventilation, the greenhouse with a size of 3 × 6 m must be set 3 to 4 windows 40 × 120 cm. The scheme of their location should be provided at the design stage, so as not to adapt to the spans of the finished frame. Footages are better installed at the top of the greenhouse on the side walls.

Preparation begins with cutting from the casing of a rectangular piece of polycarbonate. It is advisable to get into the opening between the elements of the frame, but enough and closely located horizontal crossbar. The size of the sheet is made of a frame for the vehicle from a corner or profile. Polycarbonate is attached by self-drawing, and hinges are screwed to the upper corners. A piece of chain is welded below, which the fortage will be fixed in an open state.

For efficient ventilation, the greenhouse with a size of 3 × 6 m must be installed 3 - 4 forwarders 40 × 120 cm

After the removal of the bursto of the edges of the polycarbonate edge is covered with scotch. Then you need to insert the window to the place and make sure that nothing interferes with its movement. After checking, the free parts of the hinges are attached to the cross.

The assembly of the door is made according to the same technology, but the frame is enhanced by one or two crossings. Inserted into the carcass prepared when welding. If you plan to use a garden trolley, the width is made in 1 m, if not - 0.6 m is sufficient.

Conclusion

Independent welding of greenhouses from the profile pipe is not as complicated, as it seems at first glance. To produce work, it is enough to have an inverter, a grinder, an electric drill and be able to use them. Other small tools will be found from any stock owner. In the preparation of the project, it should be borne in mind that the use of rectangular pipes instead of square will reduce the material consumption of 10-20%.

Video how to make a greenhouse with your own hands

The cultivation of vegetables and other crops in the greenhouse allows them to protect them from frosts and bad weather, as well as provide optimal conditions In terms of temperature and humidity. And as a result, all the time and strength spent on the arrangement of the construction and the care of plants, with an estimate will pay off abundant harvest of high quality. Do you like to do everything yourself? Are you a "master of all hands"? Then try to make a greenhouse from the profile with your own hands.

Why is it worth building a greenhouse from the profile yourself? What does such a design be better than a greenhouse from a tree or purchased construction, which you just need to bring and collect on the spot? Before proceeding with the case, it should be understood that the advantages of the greenhouse from the profile built by itself.

1. freedom of choice - You yourself can decide what sizes and what form will your future greenhouse will be. Your imagination can limit only the requirements for the strength of the frame and the budget allocated for the agriculture of the greenhouse.
2. Saving- Metallic profile cheap, polycarbonate or film lining is also not expensive. In addition, the value of the building is not added to the construction of the greenhouse producer, which can be substantial. As a result, the building is equal to the area and quality can do you by 30-50% cheaper than purchased.

Durability- Galvanized metal profiles do not require additional protection against corrosion. They are not afraid of dampness, moisture and air, they do not rust. With the right construction and care of the greenhouse, the design will last you for a very long time.

Mobility -the frame of galvanized metal profile and the sheat from the film or polycarbonate have an extremely small mass. You can transfer such a greenhouse to a new place, not even disassembled the construction. If it is necessary, then dismantling and reverse installation do not take you a lot of time.

Simplicity of construction - For self-building, greenhouses from a metal profile do not need to have some special knowledge and skills, we need only basic skills to work with a set of tools that can be found in any house. And those who have been engaged in the repair and installation of plasterboard ceilings before that, it will go even easier and faster.

Galvanized Profile Prices

galvanized profile

In addition to the benefits, before the start of construction work should also be familiar with the lack of greenhouses from the metal profile. In fact, he is one, but rather significant - in winter, under the influence of large snow masses, the frame and fasteners may not withstand and the greenhouse will work out. There are two ways to solve this problem.

Insufficient increase in the frame and irregular cleaning of the roof of the greenhouse from snow can lead to such a sad result.

The first is to strengthen the carcass of the greenhouse. To do this, the distance between the arches (or farms, depending on the design), is introduced, additional drives and rack-columns that support the roof of the greenhouse are introduced. We will have to spend more materials, but these costs will pay off with time.

The second way to solve the problem with snow load is the arrangement of the removable roof. It is suitable for those greenhouses that are operated only in the country season. At its end, the roof for the winter is removed in the greenhouse. As a result, the frame does not threaten anything, and in the spring you only need to remove the residues of the snow and mounted everything back.

Important! If you live in southern latitudes and in winter you have little snow falls, then there is no need to worry about the snow load. It is enough to regularly remove it from the roof of the greenhouse after the next precipitation falling.

Types of profiles

Strictly speaking, greenhouse from the profile - collective concept. It denotes structures noticeably different from each other and those built from a variety of types of metal (and not only) profiles. Some of the profiles were originally manufactured for other purposes, and other were created specifically for the construction of greenhouses. The most popular of them are shown in the table below.

Table. Types of profiles suitable for building greenhouses.

Name, photo	Description
	Many subspecies of the profiles of the P-shaped section differing in width, height of the walls and the thickness of the metal. Used to build various structures, including greenhouses. To combat corrosion, depending on the material, zinc (for steel) or anodized (for aluminum).
	Metal profile V-shaped section with "shelves" for fasteners at the bottom and on the edges. Cheap and easy-to-work product, but inferior by strength to some options for P-profiles. Created specifically for the construction of greenhouses. Reinforced options may be called W-profiles.
	Galvanized steel tube of rectangular or square section. High durability and reliability. To combat corrosion, zinc or covered with powder paints.
	Carrying a ceiling profile (PP) for drywall. It has a P-shaped section, bends at the ends. Equipped with corrugations that increase the strength of the product.
	Guide profile for drywall. It has a P-shaped section, used to form a frame plane from the CD profile and fixing the latter to the wall, floor or ceiling.
	Profiles from polyvinyl chloride P-shaped, square and other sections. Metal counterparts are greater flexibility and low cost with less resistance to loads.

There are several ways to fasten the elements from the profile with each other.

1. Bolts and nuts with washers - Well suited for profiled pipe, V-shaped and P-shaped structures. Ensure the simplicity of the subsequent dismantling and reverse installation of the greenhouse, but at the same time require pre-drilling holes in the profile and thorough control of the reliability of the compounds.
2. Selfless - Used in working with all kinds of metal profiles, especially with CD and UD. For greenhouses, it is not recommended to use "bugs", and the self-tapping screws with the press is a thin hat will not interfere with the installation of the sheath. Some of the screws are supplied with drills at the ends to relieve the entrance to the metal.
3. Welding- Reliable and durable in-point mount. Use only if the subsequent dismantling of the greenhouse is not planned. Welding seams require additional protection against corrosion.
4. Connectors- Many structures used to connect PVC profiles among themselves.

Tip! Choosing a profile for greenhouses, pay attention to the quality of the anti-corrosion coating, especially on the corners and bends - there it should not have scuffs, stains, extraneous inclusions and other defects. Otherwise, the service life of the frame can significantly decrease due to the gradual destruction of the elements affected by corrosion.

Selection of greenhouse shape

Before you start creating drawings and plans, you need to decide on the total shape of the frame for the future greenhouse. There are several basic options that have their advantages and disadvantages. We will examine them separately.

Two-tank greenhouse. The classic form that existed exists and will exist dozens of years. In fact, it is a reduced and simplified house with double roof.

The dignity of the design is as follows:

• high rigidity;
• roof tilt angles - solving problems with snow;
• lack of need for a flexible profile;
• 100% greenhouse square are suitable for use.

The disadvantages of the two-tie greenhouse are as follows:

• relatively high consumption of materials;
• structural complexity;
• inconvenience with roof cover.

Arched greenhouse. The most common frame shape for a greenhouse. It is a set of arcs from the profile connected to each other horizontal screeds.

Advantages:

• simplicity of design;
• small material consumption;
• resistance to strong winds;
• the speed assembly of the frame and laying the plating.

But there is an arched greenhouse and its drawbacks, and noticeable:

• the need to regularly belong to snow;
• need a flexible profile or tools for its flexion;
• narrow areas directly at the wall can not be used.

A-shaped. Imagine that only the roof remains from the ordinary greenhouse with a two-tip roof, and the height is high. This is how the greenhouse with a-shaped frame looks like.

A rather unusual design is rare, but with its advantages:

• lack of snow problems;
• easy to assemble;
• unusual appearance.

The rarity of the A-shaped greenhouse can be explained by its disadvantages:

• problems with the useful area;
• more time-consuming stitching;
• disadvantage in working with beds.

It is a conventional greenhouse, but the roof is tilted only in one direction. Advantages and disadvantages do not differ from those of a two-tie greenhouse. Well suited as an extension to residential house And the greenhouse for the cultivation of seedlings for the "big" greenhouse.

There are also other, more complex designs -, tent, etc. However, it is necessary to take into account that the greenhouse is made independently and from a relatively light frame, therefore it is possible to build such greenhouses, but only with great experience, as well as time and forces that are not Sorry to spend.

Important! There is a subspecies of a greenhouse with a two-tie roof -. From the original it is characterized by the fact that the vertices of the rods are located on each other, and in the resulting vertical wall are installed. As a result, the greenhouse Mitlider is the best from the point of view of ventilation efficiency and air circulation.

Design of greenhouses from the profile

By choosing the form of the future greenhouse, you need to take several sheets of paper (preferably millimeters or in a cage), pencil, eraser and proceed to the drawing of the drawing of the construction. In the presence of computer skills, the drawing can be drawn up in programs for 3D modeling and design. Of these, the simplest in the development is Google Sketcup.

First you need to choose the size of the construction. At the same time, proceed from the dimensions of the standard sheet - 6 by 2.1 m. Consider the method of connecting individual elements of the object with each other - with the help of connecting profiles or flashes. Most often, dackets choose a greenhouse width, equal to 2-3 m. The length can be 4, 6, 8 and 10 m, with some amendments to the standard SEC sheet dimensions. The height of the arched greenhouse is rarely made more than 2.1 m, there is no particular restrictions for the two-tight design, the main thing is to observe the angle of inclination of 25-30 ° for the skates.

Prices for cellular polycarbonate

cellular polycarbonate

Do not forget also about the doorway, think over what sizes will be convenient for you. We pay attention to the location of the Forms and Framug, especially in the greenhouses of the large area, as the plants in them will especially need ventilation.

The final stage of design is thought out and drawing on the drawing of the profile compounds into a single frame. Do not forget to calculate the amount of the desired material and fasteners for subsequent procurement, taking into account the reserve of 10-15%.

Foundation arrangement

Some readers may have doubts, but whether the foundation needs for the greenhouse in general. On the one hand, it is not a heavy building, and under your own weight, the greenhouse is unlikely to see. But for the greenhouse without the foundation there is always a risk that it will take it by the wind. In addition, the base laid under the greenhouse protects plants from drafts, freezing, rodents, insects and other pests.

Before starting the construction of the foundation, you need to choose a place where the future greenhouse will stand. Ideally, it should be a smooth area with a minimal bias rich in the soil, the lack of shaders from buildings and some cover from the northern winds in the form of a fence or alive hedge.

Important! Do not place a greenhouse between two houses or near such a place - the effect of "aerodynamic pipe" is created here, that is, constant and strong drafts.

The simplest and affordable type of foundation is the construction of a bar. The arrangement of any other species is possible, but excessively. For your convenience, the following is a step-by-step instruction.

Step 1.Clear the area under the greenhouse from garbage, stones and high vegetation.

Step 2. Make marking. To do this, you can use pegs or pieces of fittings and tensioned between them.

Step 3. Determine the condition of the soil. If it is solid enough, then the foundation from the bar can not deepen. Otherwise, there is a need to arrange a trench.

Step 4.If the primer is soft, then around the perimeter of the greenhouses dug the trench with a width of the bar and a depth of one pin shovel.

Step 5.Failure the bottom of the trench, pour the sand or gravel layer there. The layer thickness should be 25-30% from the depths of the ditch.

Step 6. Squeeze and cut the timber in length and width of the greenhouse.

Tip! As a material for the foundation, it is advisable to use a larch timber from larch - it is resistant to rotting and molding.

Larch ram prices

larch bar

Step 7. Treat wood with antiseptic. Alternatively can use copper Kuner, bitumen or spent machine oil.

Step 8. Collect the timber in a rectangular box. You can connect with the help of brazen or long screws "in Polterev" or with the help of galvanized metal corners.

Step 9. Transfer the box from a bar in a trench, put it there and align horizontally. To do this, you can use sand plug, earth or thin plank.

Step 10.Drill in the corners of the box from the bar through holes and insert the reinforcement pins 1 m long. Wake them into the ground. This is necessary for reliable fastening the foundation of the greenhouse - so it will not take it by the wind.

Step 11. Fall off the slots between the trench and the foundation of sand, gravel or earth.

Step 12. For additional protection of the bar, the foundation can be covered with a layer of rubberoid or other other rolled waterproofing.

Assembly of the carcass

Consider the process of manufacturing two wallpaper options for greenhouses - a two-tiered design from profiles for drywall and arched from V-shaped metal products.

The first option consists of the following elements collected separately:

• primary and secondary frontal;
• side walls;
• roof.

One of the greenhouse frontones (and in the case of a long building - both) should have an opening for the door collected separately. The frontaths themselves were assembled from the base, vertical racks, the upper horizontal beam, roofs and streamin.

Step 1. Squeeze the profile for the base and cut it at the desired length. To do this, use either a UD-profile guide, or ceiling, but with bent bends at the ends in the fields of vertical racks.

Step 2. Drill in the base profile of the hole for fastening to the foundation of the greenhouse. The interval between them is 0.75-1.5 m.

Step 3. Insert the extreme vertical racks "shelf" to the left and right, respectively. Fix at the bottom with the help of four screws for each connection - two on the "paw" UD profile.

Step 4. In the same way, insert the internal vertical racks. Use the horizontal jumper to form the door frame. It can be fixed in two ways - either using the T-shaped connector, or through the trimming of the side of the jumper profile and fixing the resulting "petal".

Step 5. Install the upper horizontal beam from the same profile from which the base is made.

Step 6. Secure the profiles of rafters with the wall of the front and with each other with the help of cutting the sides and the formation of "petals".

Step 7. Suppose the terminalon rafters by the fights and bodies to form a stronger design.

According to the same scheme, build the second fronton greenhouse. After that, you can proceed to the creation of side walls.

Step 1. Squeeze and cut the base profile, drill holes for fasteners to the foundation. Leave from the edges of the "petals" to connect the side walls of the greenhouse with the frontones.

Step 2.Prepare vertical racks of the desired height, insert them into the base and connect with the screws (two or three each side of the profile). The interval between the racks, depending on the plan, can be 0.5-1 m. The less its value, the stronger the design, but also the more materials it will be necessary for it.

Step 3. Install the top of the rack another horizontal profile, connect all the self-drawers.

Tip! For additional design strength, supply the side walls with a horizontal beam in the middle. You can connect it with racks as with the help of cross-shaped connector "crab" and by trimming the side of the profile.

Step 4. Mount both fronts and both side walls on the foundation, secure with long screws or anchor bolts.

The last stage of the formation of the frame - the arrangement of the roof. It is assembled on the same principle as on the front alone, only rafters are fixed on the upper horizontal beams with the help of "petals". For the additional strength of the design, many craftsmen complement the frame of dosy, connecting the rafters and vertical racks directly.

With the help of such oblique elements, it is possible to significantly increase the framework and protect it from the infrequent

Tip! You can improve the strength of the connections of profiles with each other using specialized racks and connectors, as in the images below.

Today, many designs from the V-shaped profile are sold in the greenhouse market. But in the presence of due skills and tools, it will not be difficult to reproduce independently, at home. Let's start the construction process from the frontones.

Step 1.Cut separate pieces of the profile, of which the greenhouse arch will be compiled. The optimal number of it composite elements - 5 items. To make a roundness, use the pipe bender machine.

Step 2. Drill holes for fasteners according to the drawing. To protect against corrosion, treat them with cold galvanizing.

Step 3. Connect the arch elements into a single semicircular design with nuts and bolts.

Step 4.Attach the dosy and crossbar to the arch.

Step 5. With the help of the corners and plates triangles, mount the vertical racks, frame under the door and oblique crossbars on the front. Also fasten the corners in advance for horizontal greenhouse screed.

Choosing the material for the carcass of the greenhouse, based on the calculations and drawings, it is worth staying on the profile tube. Video about its characteristics indicate that for the manufacture of greenhouses it perfect solution. Moreover, it will easily fulfill with your own hands.

Advantages of using profile pipe

By comparing the profile tube with other possible materials for the manufacture of the frame, it is possible to allocate its features and advantages:

• durability. As known, wooden bar. From humidity inherent in the greenhouse, quickly rotates. Even if it is processed by an antiseptic, it will not extend his service. Do not forget about the delicate, natural deformation of the tree, which is why the frame "overflow". Aluminum pipe can be additionally treated with anti-corrosion composition or simply paint.
• more coating options. It is permissible to use polycarbonate, film, glass. At the same time, the first will be the best combination, as both have reliability and long service life.
• easy attachment. Details are easy to weld, and at any angle. And such difficulties are possible if you stay on a metal-plastic pipe. If polycarbonate is selected for the coating, you do not need to use additional lining.
• easy to accumulate yourself. The profile tube can be bend, cut on the desired size of the part and secure at any angle.
• ability to perform a greenhouse of any form.

Deciding to use the profile, it is necessary to determine the place for the greenhouse on the site to understand what it must be. After that, it should be operated according to the algorithm:

1. Select the shape and type of greenhouse.
2. Draw a diagram or drawing.
3. Calculate the number and type of material.
4. Get the assembly.

Drawing - what to take into account

Drawing drawing must be borne in mind that the profile pipe is usually implemented standard sizes: 3, 4, 6, 12 m. Specifying the seller's current moment, it is necessary to repel from it. This will save on the material. More precisely, reduce the number of cropping and surplus. For example, you can make a greenhouse with a length of 6 m, and width - in 4 m. Choosing a height of 2 m, the pipe will turn out to be cut off without excess and for vertical racks.

Attention! Metal thickness and inner diameter play a significant role. For racks and basic parts, it is better to choose 20 * 40 mm, and for connecting - 20 * 20 mm.

The drawing will be formed from such components of the frame:

• base;
• vertical racks;
• top strapping;
• roof;
• door, windows;
• additional fortifications (struts).

In the drawing it is necessary to take into account, at what distance you need to put the vertical racks. According to standards, it is recommended to select a parameter of 1 m. If it is planned to cover it with a film, it is permissible to cut to 60 cm. This will reduce the load on the material and extend the period of its service.

If there is a need to leave a greater distance, for example, when drawing the front part, you will need to additionally strengthen the pipes. This can be done using a diagonally inserted tube between vertical struts.

The roof frame is formed by standard building technology, because in the drawing it will be necessary to reflect:

• two equal beams from each wall at a distance equal to the gap between the racks;
• the beams on each scap will need to be connected to each other in the slant plane;
• opposite beams to connect. It turns out a peculiar "farm".

When drawing drawing, it is necessary to take into account the future places of polycarbonate jacks.

A somewhat excellent will be an approach if the greenhouse is arched. In view of the need to bend the pipe under the right angle, it is necessary to clearly understand what height will turn out in the highest place so that in vain does not spend the space or that it is sufficient to care for plants. For example, in order to get in the center of the greenhouse, the height of about 2 m, the profile is 12 m (or two to 6 m, connected in the center). It is necessary to establish them at a distance of about 4 m (the width of the greenhouse). The number of arcs should be drawn based on the option for the sheat and the expected load. On average, the distance of 0.6 - 1 m will be enough.

Each pair of arcs will be connected to each other, and the profile is required for each side to secure the structure. On the frontows, taking into account the door and windows, you also need to draw additional struts.

You should not forget that the profile tube can be cut off by any details and fold the required design. If desired, for example, you can make a triangular, single-sided, even a spherical greenhouse.

Instructions for work

Before collecting a greenhouse, you need to prepare the foundation - the foundation. At its discretion, it can be poured it with concrete, lay out a brick, to use rail or other option. Since the design is not heavy, the bay foundation is enough to perform by 20-30 cm. In the concrete you can immediately lay in several places anchor or mortgage parts, which subsequently welcome the framework. This will create a solid foundation.

1. Cut the profile of the desired length per vertical racks.
2. Spear all vertical pillars according to the dimensions in the drawing, exposing them in the level vertically.
3. Install and secure the upper stroke (pipe at the top of all racks).
4. Measure and cut the connecting parts between the risers.
5. Connect the racks in the transverse crossbars indicated.
6. Navory "beams" to the roof, combine their crossbars.
7. Separately assemble the door, strengthen in the right place.

This is not the only possible option of execution. It is sometimes easier to collect parts in parts on a flat horizontal surface and install in a permanent place in large details. For example, each side can be welded on Earth. To do this, it will be necessary to perform a large quadrilateral, inside which to screw the crossbars and pass them into them. To simplify work, it is better to boil the details in small "portions", by sections in 2-3 m.

Attention! By assembling on Earth, you need to choose a flat surface so that there are no skews in the items. Periodically, it is worth trying to try on the future to the future.

Similarly, with the roof. "Skates" can be performed in the form of rectangles and consolidate them only at the time of installation. The choice of method in this situation depends on the number of people performing installation. Doors and subcords can be booked immediately to the necessary details.

Council. If the long pipe is to climb in several places on the one hand, you can bend a profile in such a way that the design of the roof racks (pentagonal part) can be obtained from it. This will allow somewhat saving material and time.

Arched greenhouse - features

To make an arched greenhouse from the profile, you will need to have pipe bender. This is a special tool, with which the metal can be bent at any angle, getting a smooth transition. If it is not available, you need to work a little:

1. Pipe cut the required length.
2. On one side to make small faces.
3. Bend profile to the desired radius.

Council. The more often to perform a stuff, the easier the pipe will be bend and the smooth bend will be.

In addition, there are existence folk Methods For flexion. One implies the calcination of the pipe pipe. The calcined sand needs to fall asleep inward, tightly ravage, shutting both the releases of the chop. As experts confirm, you can bend the pipe with such a filling with hands, without additional devices.

Arcs from the profile pipe can be made of pipe bend

Ready arcs will need to secure according to the instructions:

1. Install the front arc on the base, set up the level vertically, to privar.
2. Install and attach two vertical stands on the front, which will be a duct to install the door.
3. Similarly, mount the next arch.
4. Arches to fix with the side of the desired size from the side of the sides.
5. Similarly, install all arcs.
6. At the top, pave the pipe, welcome to each arc.
7. If the design is not reliable enough, perform additional fasteners on the sides.

Attention! The assembly is better to start from two opposite sides so that the design is stronger.

Doors and windows assemble according to the diagram and weld to the frontoth.

The last stage of the assembly will be fasteners of polycarbonate. If it is initially taken into account its size when drawing a circuit, the amount of excess can be significantly reduced. When installing, you need to rely on the main advice.

Today, almost every dachnik wants to equip their facilities in a stationary greenhouse or have a collapsible greenhouse, since without this structure no longer do. It makes it possible to grow year-round and get a crop. Often, a profile tube is used for the stationary greenhouse frame. This choice is due to high durability, durability and reliability of the material against the background of other alternatives.

Variety of greenhouse performances with a frame of profile pipes

The greenhouse with a frame of profile pipes can be built in one of the most popular performances:

• Rectangular type with a scope roof.
• Dutch type.
• Rectangular type with flat roof.
• Arch type.
• Pyramidal type.

Advantages of rectangular type with a scope roof

Constructions with inclined roofs have the main advantage: a large inner volume, allowing to grow high plants throughout the greenhouse area. The disadvantage of such a design is the high consumption of a fairly expensive material for the framework of the frame and performing the trim.

Dutch type

Greenhouses made in Dutch style have the same qualities as rectangular duplex greenhouses, but the characteristic feature is the extended elements of the wall frame in relation to the base. This solution guarantees the increased stability of the greenhouse design.

Rectangular type with flat roof

A positive aspect of this type of greenhouse is the savings on an expensive profile pipe, and negative - the design with the absence of a slope of the skate is subject to large temporary loads and other negative consequences from natural precipitation. For example, snow can accumulate on the horizontal surface, as a result of its melting, ice creates a load capable of destroying polycarbonate.

Arch type

This option is optimal in economic terms, but for the manufacture of arched greenhouses, special pipe bending devices are needed, due to which the pipes with a profile cross section acquire the shape of the arc.

Pyramidal type

The advantage of this constructive solution is to minimize the consumption of material on the frame and the trim. In addition, due to the pyramidal performance, the greenhouse is more lit by the Sun and less susceptible to negative impacts from natural precipitation, i.e., the probable dynamic loads are minimized. The disadvantage is a small internally space.

Basic structural elements for the manufacture of greenhouses from profile pipes

Each greenhouse may differ form, dimensions, mobility and approaches used for its device, but the structural elements from which the greenhouse consists, as a rule, are similar by the material. All greenhouses consist of the following structural elements:

• Foundation.
• Frame.
• Translucent sheath.
• Fastening fittings.

The need for the foundation and carcass greenhouse

Foundation – the most important part of any facility that carries the support function. It provides a greenhouse stability. In accordance with this, the material must be qualitative, but the decision on its use should be rational, i.e., the pile foundation will be suitable for light and mobile design, and a large, heavy and stationary construction should stand on monolithic base ribbon type.

Frame – the element by which the main form of facilities is created. It consists of a material capable of providing the desired stiffness of the entire design of the greenhouse. Metal profile pipes are perfectly suitable for making framework, since the range of this material allows you to implement any engineering solution.

Selection of translucent shell and accessories

Translucent sheath - protective coating of greenhouse plants from negative impacts ambient. As material, the plating can be applied:

• film;
• glass or polycarbonate.

Polycarbonate is optimal option To cover the greenhouse. It is justified by the fact that, in addition to transmitting the sun's rays, its empty structure serves as an excellent obstacle on the way of cold air. This material has a solid view, a relatively long service life and low cost.

Fasteners - material that is needed for high-quality fastening of the skin. The choice of fittings depends on the type of construction of the structure and coating material. For polycarbonate needed:

• heat-resistant washers;
• connecting planks;
• special screws.

To bind polycarbonate sheets, a special aluminum profile is used, as it is ideal for this material. The profile is equipped with a rubber seal to ensure the required level.

Preparatory stage of manufacturing greenhouse

Before you start creating a greenhouse from a profile pipe, you need to choose a place where the construction will be located. Criterias of choice:

• Soil and relief.
• Illumination.
• Preservation of heat.

Soil and relief.From the type of soil depends on what the foundation is needed under the greenhouse. An excellent option is an exalted and dry place with sandy soil. In low-moisture with clay soil types, excessive moisture accumulates, and this contributes to the wipping, which can adversely affect the carrier design of the greenhouse.

Illumination.The key to the placement of the greenhouse from the profile pipe is which side is better to place it south. The optimal solution will be the choice of the long side of the greenhouse. This placement of the structure minimizes the reflection of sunlight from and contributes to greater penetration into their inside.

Preservation of heat.The entrance door to the greenhouse needs to be placed in its end. The width of the door is better to choose according to the standard 700-800 mm, and the height is in accordance with the size of the greenhouse itself. If you plan to build a capital construction from the profile pipe, then it is better to provide a tambour in which you can store the tool. Such a decision will provide an opportunity to preserve heat when opening the door to the greenhouse.

Clearing and marking of the terrain, the foundation device

Before performing work on the basement device, the place on the sector under the greenhouse must be cleaned from the garbage and remove the top layer of the soil. Then, for the markup of the outline of the future greenhouse, you need to drive wooden pegs in the corners and stretch the marking rope.

Foundation device procedure:

• for the pile type of foundation, point holes are needed in the ground, and for the tape - trench all over the contour of the future greenhouse;
• the depth of the holes or trenches should be lower than the marking of the primer of the soil;
• as formwork, for the pile option, you can apply asbestos pipes;
• the gaps between the formwork and the soil must be filled with gravel and tamper;
• concrete is poured inside the resulting shape and metal parts for clutch frame with the foundation are laid.

Collection and installation of greenhouses from profile pipes

To assemble the structure, you need to make the power elements of its housing according to the greenhouse drawing. The number of such elements must correspond to the number of flaps in the framework.

The assembly, as a rule, begins with the end flaps of the case. Cutting the profile pipe can be welded with each other or connect bolts using the corner, tees and couplings. However, welding gives a more reliable result. All frame flaps are connected to the mortgage parts of the foundation.

After the greenhouse body was fully installed, you can start it with polycarbonate sheets:

• the covering of the coating is carried out by turmoises with thermoshairs;
• all joints between the sheets of the coating must be wrapped with silicone;
• the gap between the trim and the foundation must be pouring cement-sandy solution.

When installing the trim, it is necessary to take into account the next moment: the polycarbonate is very poorly withstanding dynamic loads, so the horizontal placement of this material is not recommended.

Independent performing cold flexing profile pipes

Arched greenhouses made of profile pipes for household plots are more resistant to strong wind gusts and, due to its streamlining, eliminate the accumulation of snow. The creation of arched structures is accompanied by the manufacture of frames for greenhouses from profile pipes bent into the arc. To do this, you can contact professionals with special equipment or produce a flexible pipe yourself using a screwdriver. To improve the quality of bending, you need to use special leafs or a pre-prepared arc pattern. Before you begin the deformation of the profile pipe with a wall thickness of more than 10 mm, it must be filled with sand so as not to change the size of the cross section of the workpiece in the places of bends.

For the flexible tube, it is necessary to use a bending plate with holes for creating the stop. The billet is located between two rods installed in the stove at a distance equal to the radius of the planned deformation. Bending is performed from the central part of the pipe to its edges. The method of manual bending of the pipe is quite time consuming, and the result directly depends on the efforts made.