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It would seem that there can be difficulties here - dug a hole, threw potatoes - and wait for yourself when shoots appear. But not everything is so simple! There are many tricks on how to plant potatoes correctly so that the harvest will please, not disappoint.

How to plant potatoes correctly - highlights

Preparation for planting potatoes begins in the fall - do not neglect this moment in order to get down to business with the arrival of spring.

1. Tubers for planting are harvested immediately after harvest. Select small root vegetables no more than 5 cm in diameter. These potatoes germinate the fastest and best. You can use larger ones, but then they will need to be cut into pieces before planting and processed with ash.
2. In mid-March, the tubers need to be taken out, treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and laid out in one layer in wooden boxes for germination. The first two weeks, the temperature in the room should be at least 20 degrees, then it can be lowered - up to 12 degrees Celsius. During the germination period, you need to hide the potatoes from the sun's rays, sprinkle with water and turn over.
3. Tubers are planted when the soil has warmed up to 10 degrees. The soil is preliminarily loosened with sand and fertilized.
4. Make grooves 10-15 cm deep, you can plant potatoes according to the scheme 80 by 40 cm or 60 by 60. You do not need to part - after all, the potatoes need a place for germination, and you - for hilling and weeding, processing the tops with caterpillar and Colorado potato beetle remedies.
5. If you wish, you can dig a separate hole for each bush, which is filled with humus and fertilizer. This is a longer and more painstaking process, but it pays off.

The grooves or holes after the potatoes are lowered must be covered with soil and leveled with a rake.

Do not forget about how to plant potatoes correctly - make a sufficient distance between bushes and beds, the larger the planting tubers, the more it should be.

When using sliced ​​potatoes as seeds, remember that it will sprout only in dry and warm weather. If it rains, it will simply rot in the ground.

If you want to end up with a quality and tasty product, never use second-rate, frozen or rotten potatoes for planting. Remember - what you throw into the ground - it will give you back.

Tell me when can I plant potatoes? For the second year now, we have been haunted by failure: we just can't guess the timing. Last year, it seemed that they planted two weeks later than usual, but the seedlings were still frozen.

Most summer residents approach planting potatoes "responsibly and substantially": in early spring buy a couple of dozen buckets seed material and drugs against pests. It is not surprising, because potatoes often form the basis of the diet, and therefore gardeners strive to provide themselves with its reserves for whole year... But if you protect future harvest From it is possible with the help of "chemistry", it is almost impossible to predict the whims of nature.

Often all efforts are in vain, when in the morning you go out to the beds, and there are shrubs slightly frozen, still standing so vigorously yesterday. Most often, the reason for such a picture is haste - the whole family has gathered for the weekend, and let's quickly throw the tubers into the holes until the assistants run away. And the earth is still cold, and winter is not yet completely gone and threatens us with recurrent frosts at night ...

To avoid such a fate and preserve the future harvest, you need to know when you can plant potatoes, because, like most others garden crops, she loves warmth and reacts painfully to the night temperature drop.

Compliance with landing dates is very important point when growing potatoes and "miscalculation" in any direction can not only deprive a tasty and nutritious harvest, but also completely ruin the planting:

• if planted early, the tubers will "freeze" in the cold soil and will just lie and wait for heat, but then they will develop extremely reluctantly and the emergence of seedlings will be delayed;
• if you plant late, the land will already be "dehydrated", and in dry soil without additional watering, the crop will be small.

In addition, failure to comply with the planting dates for potatoes often leads to the development of crop diseases, especially fungal ones.

Landing dates depending on weather conditions

1. The soil should warm up to a depth of 10 cm to 8 degrees Celsius or more.
2. At night, the air temperature should not drop much, which means that the frost has already ended.

There is no single date for planting potatoes, since in different regions warmth comes at different times. The generalized planting period is April-May, but in the southern regions, March planting is also allowed in early spring, while in the northern regions it often shifts until the beginning of June.

Influence of potato variety on planting dates

Each has its own growing cycle of development, which should also be taken into account, namely:

• early varieties are planted first, around mid-April;
• mid-season species - in early May;
• late varieties - at the end of May.

Folk Landing Calendar

Our grandmothers, planning the opening of the garden season, did not use the weather forecast, but rather trusted the facts that had already happened, verified by their own experience. So, according to folk signs, it is necessary to plant potatoes no earlier than the bird cherry blossoms and the dandelions bloom, which is fully consistent with reality and scientific recommendations, because at this time the long-awaited warmth comes. But, nevertheless, planning to go for a shovel and a bucket of potatoes, check the weather for the near future to play it safe.

The most popular vegetable, which is also called "second bread", is potatoes. Therefore on summer cottage almost everyone allocates at least a small bed for him. Here's how to plant potatoes to harvest good harvest, not everyone knows.

Preparing for landing

The process of preparing for planting potatoes includes:

1. Prepare the place- it needs to be dug up and fertilized in the fall. The garden on which the vegetable will be grown must be well lit. In the shade or partial shade, very small potatoes will grow.

Every year you have to choose new site for planting. Ideal if previously grown on it cereals, legumes (peas, beans), radish, rapeseed.

It is important to know when to plant potatoes in open ground... By this time, the earth should be warmed up to a temperature of 10-15 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, the tubers will not sprout in the cold for a long time, and may simply rot.

2. Select the desired potato- do it after harvesting (in autumn). The dug out potatoes are sorted out, dried in the shade, and then the planting material is selected.

The tubers should be medium in size (about the size of a chicken egg or paintball). But, some farmers also plant very large potatoes. Here it is important to know how to cut it for planting. For this, the sprouted tuber is cut lengthwise into two halves, without touching the sprouts.

You can also plant very small potatoes, like a quail's egg. There should be good, thick sprouts on it. They are put in a hole in several pieces.

The tubers for planting should be free of fungal infections, cuts and spots.

3. Correct germination- the quality of the crop largely depends on this. As our ancestors did, and even now, farmers adhere to the rule - before planting, potatoes need to germinate, and you need to start 40 days before planting.

To do this, potatoes are brought indoors, with an air temperature in it of about +20 degrees. Seed potatoes are laid out in shallow boxes in one layer and immediately treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. As soon as sprouts begin to appear (after 15-20 days), the temperature in the room should be lowered to +10 degrees.

To prepare the potatoes for planting and accelerate germination, it is necessary to process them with wood ash and minerals diluted in water.

The best potato varieties for planting

Depending on the climate and geographic location, you need to choose which potato variety is more suitable for growing.

Early ripening potatoes. Its growing season is no more than 60 days. They are usually planted in mid-spring. The disadvantage of this variety is that it is poorly stored. Early ripening varieties include - Red Scarlet, Rosara, Luck.

Medium-early ripening varieties. You can start harvesting in 60-70 days. This type includes - Adretta, Gala, Karat, Nevsky.

Medium-ripening potatoes. Ripening period from 80 to 100 days. Harvesting takes place at the end of summer. Among the varieties are Tuleyevsky, Lugovsky, Altair, Skarb.

Medium and late potato variety. Harvested 120 days after planting. They are stored better than the previous ones, therefore they are grown for winter consumption. Late varieties include - Kiwi, Zdabytok.

Processing potatoes before planting

To save potatoes from, they need to be treated with prestige before planting. This drug remains in tubers for up to 70 days, so early potato varieties are not treated with it. For them, drugs such as Tabu and Cruiser are suitable. The period of their stay in a vegetable is 45 days.

Everyone who grows potatoes should know how to process them before planting against late blight. One of the best drugs- Matador Grand. It has a triple action of protecting potatoes from beetles, beetles, whiteflies, aphids and fleas. Including from late blight, peronosporosis, alternaria and rhizoctonia.

Treating potatoes with boric acid before planting will help prevent the reproduction of the Colorado potato beetle. Have to take boric acid- 2 tbsp. spoons, 1 tbsp. spoon copper sulfate, potassium permanganate on the tip of a knife, stir it all in a bucket of water (10 liters). Then work off the seed and dry it.

Preparing the soil for planting potatoes

For a good potato harvest, you need to prepare the soil in advance for planting it. The ideal soil for potatoes is well-drained, loose, with oxygen access to the tubers.

The acidity of the soil for planting tubers should be at a pH level of 5.5 - 7.5. The alkaline reactions of the earth will have a very negative effect on the development of potatoes. Likewise, if the soil is too waterlogged for a long period of time, or too dense. In such conditions, potatoes develop poorly and are poorly stored, and quickly rot.

The allotted bed must be well cleaned of roots and weeds, especially wheatgrass. With its roots, it penetrates the potato tubers through and through, preventing further growth.

In the spring, the earth is loosened. Do this with a pitchfork or a shovel, half bayonet.

If the soil for planting is too acidic, you should add to it wood ash or bone meal. Peat or mullein is added to alkaline soils.

It is also necessary to add the main ones. They will saturate the earth and attract worms, which loosen it up quite well.

Salt licks, clay and peat soils need compost, rotten straw and sand. Sandy soil is improved by peat and rotten straw with the addition of mineral fertilizers. Mullein, sawdust and compost are added to the bog-peat soil. Also potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Sandy loam soils should be regularly diluted with compost and peat. And very often, feed them with mineral fertilizers in small amounts.

IN organic fertilizers need loamy and medium loamy areas. Fertilizers are applied only when needed.

The soil must be disinfected before planting. This can be done with the help of chemicals - Iprodion, formalin and lime. Apply them strictly according to the instructions. And biological solutions - "Fitosporin", "Gamaira", "Trichodermina", "Glyokladina".

It is important to know that you cannot use several of these tools at once.

After harvesting potatoes, agronomists recommend planting garlic or marigolds to renew the land.

Proper cultivation methods

When the ground is warmed up, and the sprouts begin to reach one or two centimeters in length, you can start planting potatoes in open ground.

The optimum planting depth for potatoes is 10 cm. The distance between the bushes should be equal to the number of tubers planted in one hole. The more of them, the further to plant the bushes from each other. Distance between rows, no more than 1 meter.

It is necessary to feed the potatoes during planting, adding humus, wood ash to each planting hole. Then, with the sharp end of a shovel, stir the groundbait with the ground. After that, carefully lay the tuber, preferably sprouts up, and carefully sprinkle it with earth without damaging them.

Already seven days after planting, the soil must be weeded out. This will provide additional access to oxygen and clean the soil of weeds.

When the bushes grow to 15-20 centimeters in height, they need to be spud. They do this in order to protect against spring frosts and to allow the bush to grow in width. Re-hilling after 15 days.

Before the flowering of the bushes, it is necessary to feed the rhizomes. For this, the potato bed is watered with fermented weed infusion. You can use water-diluted cow dung or bird droppings.

Potato planting methods

There are many ways to plant potatoes. The main methods used by gardeners are described below.

Planting potatoes under straw

This is a way to plant potatoes on unplowed land. Well-sprouted potatoes are laid out on virgin soil and covered with a thick layer (at least 20 cm) of straw on top. Nothing more needs to be done until autumn. During harvesting, stale straw is removed, after which potatoes are harvested.

Planting potatoes using Dutch technology

The potatoes are planted in a high continuous row, the width of which is not less than 40 cm and the width of row spacing is 70 cm. Throughout the entire growing period, the potatoes must be constantly huddled, gaining land from the rows.

Ridge landing

This method of growing potatoes is suitable for clay soils. The combs are made with a walk-behind tractor. Its height should not exceed 20 cm, and the width between the rows is 60-80 cm.

Growing potatoes in a barrel

The tuber planted in a barrel is sprinkled with earth as it grows. By the time of harvest, a whole pyramid of potatoes will grow in the barrel.

No need to be lazy and having learned how to plant potatoes, work in a timely manner. Then the entire autumn-spring season on the tables there will be potatoes from their own garden.

All the secrets of caring for potatoes and planting rules are revealed on the pages of magazines, but, nevertheless, with each good or bad harvest, completely new and unpredictable results can be revealed. Especially if you are new to this business and you do not know yet , how to plant potatoes.

Good harvest requires quality seeds

The first factor to consider in order to get a good harvest is quality seeds. Even with the right process planting, the necessary care at the time of ripening, as well as the timely collection of potatoes, you can get a bad harvest. This is often due to improper selection of tubers. You should select potatoes for planting in the fall, immediately after harvest. You need to choose planting material from the most productive bushes, at least 4-5 cm in size.It should be added that the larger the potatoes selected for planting, the earlier they will ripen and give a good harvest from each bush.

Summer residents use another trick - when planting potatoes, they cut the potatoes in half and let them dry a little in the sun, then cover the cut with ash. This method gives a very good result. Be sure to take into account the weather when planting, it should be a little wet and warm. Otherwise, all the planting material may simply rot without rising, and if you are lucky, the sprouts will be very weak.

How to prepare for planting potatoes

First you need to pay attention to the preparation and selection of a place for the garden. Best harvest can be obtained at:

• Cultivated gray forest soils.
• Suspensions.
• Light to medium loam.
• Correctly fertilized and processed sod-podzolic.

Growing potatoes on acidic soil is ineffective, since the plants are subject to increased attack by pests and often get sick. An important factor is the presence of a sufficient amount of sand in the soil. If it is not there, potatoes grow poorly and it makes sense to loosen the ground a little by adding sand. Before planting potatoes, the soil must be thoroughly fertilized - this is necessary so that good tubers form during the growth process. You can add a little saltpeter, urea and potassium salt for digging.

Planting constantly on the same bed is fraught with crop failure. Planting should be periodically transferred to another bed and do not forget about fertilization and weeding. This will allow more oxygen to flow to the roots.

Planting process

Two months before this, the potatoes must be removed from the cellar and placed in a warm, bright room. The temperature in it should be about 20C. After that, for about a week, the tubers are kept in a cooler room - where the temperature is only 10C. All this time, it is best to keep the potatoes in the boxes in one layer until the eyes appear on them.

The best way to plant tubers is in rows. During landing early varieties it is advisable to maintain a distance of half a meter between the beds, and about 30 cm between adjacent holes. Late and mid-season varieties should be placed at a distance of 40 cm. You can use a walk-behind tractor if you need to plant a large bed with potatoes.

General rules for growing potatoes

To get a good harvest, you need to adhere to simple rules:

There are two planting methods - directly into the ground or under hay. Regardless of which one you choose, you need to choose the right time for planting. It should be warm outside, warming up the soil to 20C is desirable. Usually potatoes are planted during the first few weeks of May, but some gardeners start the planting process literally from the first days. The time of harvesting potatoes directly depends on its variety, usually 85 days pass from the moment of planting - then you can start harvesting. The exact time for planting can be determined at your own discretion and taking into account your own capabilities, the only important rule- the ground should not be frozen.

Compliance with these simple rules will allow you to get a good harvest of potatoes!

Video how to plant potatoes

It has long been noticed that the yield of potatoes depends not only on the variety, weather conditions and timely feeding, but also on the method of planting. Of course, in order to harvest a decent harvest, in any case, you have to work hard. The main thing is that the work does not go to waste. Therefore, more and more often our gardeners are trying non-standard methods of planting potatoes.

Attention! It is impossible to get 20-30 kilograms of tubers from one bush. The authors of such "methods" usually keep silent about the huge doses of mineral fertilizers that are used to feed potatoes. Naturally, the yield is growing, but the tubers are a real "chemical bomb" that neither people nor pets can eat. However, using the methods of organic farming, it is quite possible to double the yield by collecting 500-700 kg of potatoes from a hundred square meters.

Basic principles of planting potatoes

All planting methods are based on one principle: to provide tubers optimal conditions for formation and growth, as well as rid them of pests.

A bush of potatoes for development needs:

• warmly;
• air for the root system (aeration);
• timely moisturizing;
• fertilizer.

Traditional method of landing "under a shovel"

The site has been dug up in the fall. In autumn, various fertilizers are introduced into the soil: manure, ash, urea. In spring, the earth is not dug deeply: this way it will retain moisture longer after the snow melts. To loosen the soil a little, they use a pitchfork and a rake: first, they simply raise the clods of earth with a pitchfork, then they level the area of ​​the future planting with a rake.

The potatoes are planted when the first buds on the birch trees bloom, and the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm reaches 6-8 ° C. With the help of pegs and cords, they outline future beds. The distance between them should be about 70 cm. Tubers of at least 3-4 cm in diameter are used as seed material. They must germinate for two weeks before planting.

One person with a shovel digs holes 6-8 cm deep, another throws a tuber into each hole (sprouts up). On top, you can add some compost, ash, crushed eggshells and onion skins (to scare away the wireworm). The soil from each subsequent hole is sprinkled with a tuber with fertilizers in the previous hole. The distance between the holes is 30-35 cm, for early varieties - 25-30 cm.

After the potatoes rise, and before flowering, they are spud twice. The bushes are watered several times, fed with organic and inorganic fertilizers.

If early potatoes are planted in this way, then the tubers are pre-germinated within a month, and after planting, the land on the site is covered plastic wrap or light agrofibre. If the spring is late and cold, wooden or metal arcs are installed over the beds, onto which the film is pulled.

The only advantage of the method is that it has been tested for centuries, and with proper care a good harvest can be harvested behind the potato bushes.

Disadvantages of the method:

• the characteristics of the soil are not taken into account. If the groundwater at the site is too close to the surface, this method cannot be used;
• due to the fact that the potatoes are planted densely, it is difficult to process them, and many Colorado beetles gather on the bushes;
• high labor costs for planting and hilling;
• when weeding and hilling, there is a high probability of damage to the root system of plants;
• if there is a wireworm on the site, it is difficult to cope with it.

Planting potatoes in combs

If the soil in the area is clayey or groundwater is too close to its surface, potatoes are planted in ridges. The height of the ridges is 15 cm, the distance between them is about 70 cm. It is most convenient to make the ridges with a tractor or walk-behind tractor. Potatoes are planted in holes located at the tops of the ridges at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

Subsequently, the potatoes are looked after in the same way as in the previous case: they spud, watered, fed, if necessary, sprayed with insecticides from the Colorado potato beetle.

Advantages of the method:

• the possibility of mechanization, the cost of manual labor is less than with the previous method;
• if the soil is damp, then the potatoes do not rot, since the ridges dry out much faster than the row spacing.

Disadvantages of the method:

• if you plant potatoes in sandy soil, the ridges will dry out quickly and you will need to water the bushes too often;
• the possibility of damage to potatoes during weeding and hilling;
• due to dense planting, the likelihood of infection of the bushes with diseases increases.

Planting potatoes in trenches

This method is good if the soil on the site is sandy and dries out too quickly. In autumn, they dig trenches 25-30 cm deep at a distance of 70-100 cm from each other. A thick (10-15 cm) layer of raw hay is laid in the trenches. Sprinkle a small amount of manure on top. Ash can also be used: this is good potash fertilizer and poison for the Colorado potato beetle. Putting some onion skins in the future compost will scare away the wireworm. Sometimes they add to the compost mineral fertilizers(urea).

During the winter, the compost will crush and thicken: by the spring, the layer thickness will be 3-5 cm. In the spring, tubers are laid in the trenches and sprinkled with earth. If planting early, use film or agrofibre. Before flowering, the tubers are spud twice.

If the trenches have not been prepared in the fall, it does not matter: they can be dug in the spring, but in this case, already rotted compost with a thickness of 3-5 cm is laid in them.

Advantages of the method:

• compost warms tubers, they develop faster, they tolerate frosts easier;
• compost retains moisture, and almost no watering is required;
• there is no need to additionally feed the potatoes, since it receives all the nutrients it needs from compost;
• high productivity.

Disadvantages of the method:

• if the soil is damp, the tubers may rot;
• additional labor costs for digging trenches and making hay.

Meatlider method

The method, created by the American scientist Mittlider, can increase the yield of potatoes by one and a half to two times. Paradox: tubers are planted more rarely than with the traditional way, and the harvest is much more.

It is necessary to form beds 35-45 cm wide. The distance between them is 80-100 cm. First, the plot is marked out. Then they dig up the beds without touching the row spacing. Moreover, once the planned beds remain in their places forever. Subsequently, it will only be necessary to process them. If the site has a slope, then the edges of the beds are strengthened with fascines, woven from branches, or with ordinary boards. Earthen bumpers are formed on a flat area.

In the garden, sprouted potatoes are planted in two rows, in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between plants in a row is 30-40 cm. Compost, ash, chicken droppings are placed in the holes, onion skins... Before budding, the potatoes are fed and watered twice, but there is no need to spud them.

Advantages of the method:

• no need to huddle potatoes;
• weeding is almost not required;
• plant roots are not damaged;
• high productivity;
• the possibility of growing potatoes in very small areas.
• The only drawback of the method is the additional labor costs for arranging the beds.

Dutch technology

With this method, potatoes are planted in high ridges: width - 30–45 cm, row spacing - 70 cm. Fertilizers are placed in the hole together with tubers. Much attention is paid to loosening the soil, watering, feeding. The soil for hilling is taken from the aisles, so the plant roots are not damaged. The tops are mowed two weeks before harvest.

Advantages of the method:

• high productivity;
• due to the fact that potatoes are rarely planted, it is better to process them.

There are practically no drawbacks to this method. Labor costs for arranging high ridges are not at all higher than when landing under a shovel.

Gülich method

With this method, the entire plot is divided into squares with a side of 1 m.In the center of each square, the soil is loosened and a circle of rotted compost with a diameter of 30 cm is laid out. The tuber is planted in the center with sprouts down and sprinkled with earth. As soon as the tubers sprout, they are neatly laid on the ground "in a fan" and sprinkled with earth. This is done 3-4 times. As a result, a mound forms in the center of each square, and a powerful root system... In drought, plants need watering.

The advantage of the method is high yield: up to 5 kg of tubers can be harvested from one bush.

The disadvantage of this method is that it is necessary to carefully monitor the seedlings and sprinkle them with earth in a timely manner. Therefore, the method is not suitable for gardeners who cannot visit the site every day.

Growing potatoes in bags, boxes or barrels

This method is similar to the previous one with the only difference that the tubers are not planted in open ground, but in bags, barrels or boxes without a bottom filled with a mixture of soil and compost. Holes for ventilation are cut in the walls of the barrels. When the potatoes sprout, they are sprinkled with a mixture of soil and compost, forming a powerful root system.

The method is ideal for plots with a small area, but not suitable for gardeners living far from the country. In this case, the tubers can be planted in tiers, dividing them with a compost layer 25-30 cm thick.

Straw mulching

This is old way, known since the 19th century. The plot is covered with a thick layer of hay or straw in the fall. In spring, potatoes are planted in rotted compost and covered with straw again. The distance between the beds is 70-80 cm, between the bushes in a row - 30 cm. Instead of hilling, a layer of hay is poured around the bush each time. Experienced gardeners with this method collect up to 700-1000 kg of potatoes from a hundred square meters.

Advantages of the method:

• weeding and additional feeding are not needed;
• almost complete absence of wireworm and Colorado potato beetle;
• compost warms and nourishes tubers, they develop much faster;
• potatoes grow without touching the ground, so they turn out to be very clean;
• high productivity.

The only drawback of the method is the need to mow the grass and transport it to the site.

Growing potatoes under agrofibre or cardboard

Instead of straw, you can use dark agrofibre or ordinary cardboard. The material is covered with a previously fertilized and loosened bed, then round holes are cut in place of the holes. Tubers are planted in them.

Advantages of the method:

• complete absence of weeds, weeding is not needed;
• potatoes do not need to be watered too often, since agrofibre retains moisture in the soil;
• high productivity.

The only drawback of the method is the need to purchase agrofibre or cardboard.

There are about a hundred ways to plant potatoes, so every gardener has the opportunity to choose the most suitable one for his site. We have reviewed the most popular ones.

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