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Waterproofing materials a choice between classic and modern

A wide selection of modern waterproofing materials, on the one hand, gives freedom of choice, on the other hand, it often confuses: what to choose? A couple of decades ago, in fact, the only means for performing foundation and basement work was roofing material, which was used for vertical and horizontal protection against moisture penetration. Moreover, not everyone resorted to heating and gluing this roll material, limiting themselves to laying two layers.

According to today's standards, it is necessary to ensure the best possible conjugation of the waterproofing layer and its associated surfaces. To solve this problem, the following materials are used:

• penetrating waterproofing;
• roll pasting waterproofing;
• coating waterproofing.

Installation of roll-up waterproofing of the foundation and basement of the house

Plinth trim

Facing, as well as insulating a basement in a private house, is an important stage in the construction of a high-quality and warm building.

High-quality finishing of the foundation carries not only an aesthetic function, but protects it from external factors and provides erosion protection.

There are a considerable number of types with which you can trim the basement. The main ones are listed below.

Decorative plaster. The most common type of finish is plastering with painting. The advantage of such a finish is considered to be its low cost and a wide selection of materials. Among the shortcomings, one can single out fragility.

Finishing with natural or artificial stone. Stone is always beautiful, besides, a house faced with stone will delight you with a long service life.

Despite its many advantages, stone finishing has its drawbacks. Such material is very heavy, and this greatly complicates the installation, and the price is quite high. To simplify the task, an artificial stone is used, it is lighter, but installation still requires additional efforts and materials.

Facing the plinth with siding. Siding is a small panel, 3 mm thick, made of polypropylene. According to their external characteristics, there are many types that imitate all different types of cladding materials. This type of cladding is quite functional and its advantage is quite good mechanical characteristics.

A lined and insulated foundation will last as long as possible and keep the heat in the house.

Insulation installation technology

Any work on insulation or waterproofing of wood or brick house should begin with cleaning the surface to be insulated.

Installation of expanded polystyrene plates.

Then, the order of work is as follows:

1. Insulation of the basement of a wooden or brick house begins with the arrangement of a protective sealed layer. It can be done using special moisture-proof materials that have adhesive base... They are easily glued to the surface and help protect structures from moisture.
2. Then it is necessary to apply a waterproofing layer. it important factor ensuring correct thermal insulation of the basement and basement floor. Waterproofing is designed to divert groundwater and any precipitation from the walls of the structure.
3. Laying polystyrene foam boards is one of the most important stages of warming the basement and basement of a wooden house. In most cases, one layer of plates 5-8 cm thick will be enough. But much will depend on the climatic conditions on the ground, in accordance with which it is required to select the thickness of the insulating layer of the basement. If the weather conditions on the ground are difficult, then it is recommended to lay two layers of polystyrene foam boards, and the second layer should be mounted so that the boards overlap the joints of the first layer. In this case, the so-called "cold bridges" will not appear, which significantly reduce the efficiency of the insulation work of a wooden house.

In accordance with the specifics of the technology of insulation using expanded polystyrene plates, it is not allowed to install the decorative layer on the plates immediately after.

You can insulate the base, as already noted, on your own and without the use of special tools. But it is best to carry out the work on thermal insulation and waterproofing directly at the stage of building a house. In this case, the work efficiency will be higher.

Decorative stone finish.

Insulation of the basement and foundation of the house with expanded clay

Expanded clay due to its porous structure absorbs moisture well, which is not very good for warming the foundation. However, if it is used according to a certain technological scenario, then it will also work as a heater.

To do this, you need to comply with the following technological steps:

• It is necessary to dig a foundation trench, deep into the entire base and at least one meter wide.
• Then you need to lay roofing material (overlapping) in the trench, so that it rises both on the walls of the house and on the trenches itself. The seams, of course, are glued, and the walls are covered with bitumen mastic.
• Then expanded clay, of a heterogeneous fraction, is poured into the ditch. This will avoid airborne areas in the insulation layer. As the expanded clay falls asleep, it is advisable to tamp it.
• On the plane of the basement, the lathing is fastened, which is sheathed with boards. The result is a structure similar to wooden formwork, which is created around the perimeter of the entire house. A clay suspension diluted with water, up to 15 cm thick, is poured into such a wooden system. The rest of the space is filled with expanded clay. At the end, the formwork is closed with a lid at an angle of at least 45 degrees, this will protect the plinth from the accumulation of precipitation.
• The final stage is the closure of the trench with another layer of roofing material, on which sand is poured, which serves as a good basis for creating a concrete blind area.

Installation of a waterproofing layer of the basement

After the goals and necessary characteristics of the protective layer have been determined, they begin to select the component elements and basic materials.

If it is necessary to make an insulating layer, then it is better to do it outside. This will not only save internal space, but also increase the effectiveness of protection. The insulation installed from the inside will become an obstacle to the stabilization heating of the walls, which can easily reach atmospheric temperature. The material from which the basement of the house is made will be subject to critical loads. Daily and seasonal temperature fluctuations have a negative effect on it, shortening its service life.

When arranging the base of the building along the perimeter of the supporting structures, a moisture-protective layer is laid on the gravel-sand substrate. The plinth can be monolithic or made as a separate element.

Optimal scheme of waterproofing and insulation of the basement

In the second case, an additional layer of protection is made before its construction. This will be an additional barrier to the penetration of ground moisture into the walls. Experts call this operation - horizontal waterproofing of the basement. If necessary, the layer is duplicated in the upper part, before laying the walls.

When purchasing materials for waterproofing, you should carefully read the instructions and take into account all recommendations during installation. Universal products are suitable for waterproofing plinths made of bricks, blocks and concrete. But all efforts will be in vain if they are applied to unprepared surfaces. It is necessary to clean it from dirt, dust and grease.

When using roll and film materials, the surface must be leveled for a snug fit of the insulating layer. A special composition - a primer - will help to improve the quality of adhesion to the base. This proposal is relevant if the organization of a working or living space is planned under the main house. In this case, the waterproofing of the basement floor from the outside is carried out with special care and accuracy.

Correct technology of insulation and waterproofing of the basement floor

A significant share of products in this market segment is occupied by bitumen-based materials. Compositions modified with additives with a reinforcing base made of fiberglass or non-woven polymer fabric in terms of performance significantly exceed similar products of the previous generation and are a reliable barrier to moisture penetration into the base. Manufacturers offer the following methods of mounting roll and sheet materials:

• Mechanical. The layer is fixed with fasteners. Joints and edges are treated with sealing compounds.
• Weldable. It is based on the principle of softening, increasing the elasticity and adhesion of bitumen under the influence of high temperature. The material is heated with a burner and placed in sequence.
• Kleeva. There is no need to use additional tools or materials during installation. The adhesive layer has already been applied during production. When laying, remove the protective film or paper and fix the material in place.

A wide range is presented in the category of liquid insulating materials. According to the method of application, it is customary to divide them into the following categories:

• Coating. Traditional way of creating a protective layer. The composition firmly adheres to the treated surface and, when dried, has a small shrinkage coefficient.
• Painting. For materials of this type, the presence of a binder and filler is characteristic. The name speaks about the principle of action. The liquid binder partially penetrates the pores, and the filler creates a strength layer.
• Penetrating. compositions with surface active action and the ability to form a film. It is necessary to adhere to the recommended time before starting the next operation. It is indicated on the product packaging and different compositions have specific meanings for the complete polymerization of the layer. It is often used when waterproofing the basement from the inside is required, followed by finishing. For example, when arranging swimming pools and saunas.
• Sprayable. They are applied with a special tool. In this category, formulations with foaming agents are offered. The layer in this case serves as a heater.

Foundation and plinth with spray-on waterproofing layer

A protective layer is made for any type of foundation. Even if piles or pillars are chosen as the basis. Before installing the piping or grillage, waterproofing material must be laid on the contacting surfaces. If during the operation of the building there are signs of moisture penetration into the supporting structure, then the source of the leak should be immediately identified and measures should be taken to eliminate it.

9. Insulation with warm plaster

Dry adhesive mixtures are called warm plaster, which have little in common with their decorative counterpart. The composition of the heat insulator may include sawdust, vermiculite or expanded polystyrene.

Advantages:

• solidity of thermal insulation;
• ease of installation, because you can start applying warm plaster immediately after the layer of preliminary primer dries. If you plan to apply thermal insulation in one layer, you can even do without a reinforcing mesh;
• relatively small price.

Disadvantages quite a few:

• water absorption, therefore, careful waterproofing is necessary;
• it is impossible to make a layer thicker than 5 cm, otherwise you will have to apply insulation not only outside, but also inside;
• heavy weight;
• warm plaster cannot play the role of a finishing material.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Expanded polystyrene is best suited for independent work. It is a slab that can be glued or screwed to walls. This material is moisture resistant and durable in operation, but you can choose another insulation.

Comparison of the characteristics of mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam. Click to enlarge.

The choice of insulating material is influenced by the following factors:

• the presence of a basement and its function;
• type of house (brick, wood or monolithic);
• thickness of the foundation and walls;
• type of foundation (tape, slab, block or monolithic);
• climate in the area of ​​residence.

Mineral wool

Fiber insulation has always been very popular due to its low price. This material is presented in several varieties: mineral and basalt wool, as well as glass wool. All of them have excellent insulating properties and can last a long time.

Mineral wool slabs.

Professional builders do not recommend using cotton wool to insulate the basement. It is better suited for indoor home insulation. Its application outside the house will lead to a number of additional work. For example, you have to waterproof all surfaces where you placed the cotton wool. This is due to the fact that if it gets wet, it will immediately cease to perform an insulating function.

In addition, soil pressure and frequent mechanical damage lead to the formation of lumps in the cotton wool. The resulting voids allow cold to enter the building.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam has been produced and used as insulation for many years, so all the pros and cons of this material are well known. Durability is considered its main advantage. While expensive new insulation materials have not been tested by time, it is known for certain that the service life of the foam is quite long. It will surely serve you for several decades and will protect the base from destruction and cold penetration.

Gluing foam boards on the plinth.

Another advantage of this material is its prevalence. Polyfoam is produced by many companies, and you can easily find slabs of the required size and thickness, even in a small town.

It is known that polystyrene is used as insulation for the outer walls of multi-storey buildings. Here, the main disadvantage of the material becomes known - its low fire resistance. But manufacturers took this shortcoming into account, and most switched to the production of a special type of foam. Now a substance is added to it that prevents combustion and does not allow the fire to spread quickly. On the packaging of the material, you can often find such designations as "non-combustible" and "self-extinguishing".

Due to the fact that the base is not in contact with the electrical wiring, you can safely use foam plates to insulate your house.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is the most versatile of all existing insulation. Using the spray method, they can cover virtually anything. The work is very quick and easy, the composition perfectly covers walls and fills in small cracks.

Walls covered with polyurethane foam.

After drying, the polyurethane foam forms a thin film to protect the foundation and plinth

It is important to note that this type of insulation is capable of repelling moisture and steam, so you do not have to additionally cover it with film or foil.

Experience shows that the service life of polyurethane foam is several decades. You can purchase a spray attachment or call workers.

Penofol

Penofol is made of polyethylene foam covered with a thin layer of foil. Air bubbles in the penofol capsules retain the heat of the foundation and basement. Foil reinforces the thermal insulation of the material and protects it from moisture.

Penofol is a thin film that is sold in rolls. It can be used alone or in combination with other heat insulators.

Why do you need waterproofing

The basement or basement floor, as a rule, is mostly below ground level. This means that the walls are in contact with the ground. For the construction of the underground part, prefabricated reinforced concrete is usually used (FBS blocks (see Basement from FBS blocks - quickly, reliably, durable)) or a monolithic structure made of reinforced concrete.

Destruction of the basement without waterproofing

This material has, although strong, but nevertheless a porous structure. A reliable foundation will become when the foundation is protected from moisture penetration from all sides. If this is not done, then there is a risk of unpleasant and dangerous factors.

• Moisture from the soil, atmospheric precipitation, nearby groundwater, through the capillaries of concrete, easily penetrate into the body of the basement structure, and then get to the main walls.

Basement with high groundwater table

• If the walls and floor are not protected from water, then after a while its harmful effect will lead to oxidation and rusting of the reinforcement.
• Changes in seasonal temperatures, and periodic freezing / thawing of water in concrete, will disrupt the structure of the material, which will significantly reduce the strength of the entire base.

Cracks in the foundation

• In other words, neglect of waterproofing is fraught with subsidence of the building, cracks in the blocks, weakening and gradual destruction of the monolith.
• In addition, a damp foundation is a breeding ground for various microorganisms, fungus, mold, and, accordingly, an unhealthy humid atmosphere in the room.

Dampness and mold in the basement

In a dry climate or in sandy soil, with the location of groundwater (see), located below the level of the foundation, only coating insulation is sufficient. But today we will talk about full-fledged protection of the foundation and basement with our own hands, using modern and reliably protecting the surface of the materials.

Technology of basement insulation with polystyrene slabs

Polystyrene is the second name for the familiar foam, modified to give it special properties. There are various brands of polystyrene boards on the market, they differ in density, resistance to mechanical damage, and thickness. To insulate the foundation from the inside, polystyrene plates with a thickness of 50-100 mm are sufficient.

Insulation of the foundation with polystyrene slabs

Technology of thermal insulation of the foundation from the inside with polystyrene:

1. Prepare the walls for thermal insulation: align, eliminate large differences on the walls. Seams and cracks, if necessary, are embroidered to a solid foundation, and then waterproofed and sealed with a special compound.
2. Waterproofing the foundation. For buildings built on damp and heaving soils, as well as for buildings without external thermal insulation, it is recommended to use penetrating waterproofing.

Polystyrene plates are glued on a special glue, which is sold in the form of a dry mix or solution. The glue is applied to the plate pointwise, at least 6-8 points per sheet, and firmly pressed against the base.

The process of applying special glue to the slabs

3. The sheets have grooves for easy stacking; when stacking, they must be combined. If the insulation is laid in several rows, they should be staggered.

After the glue has dried, it is necessary to additionally fix the polystyrene sheets with special dowels with a wide round head. A hole is drilled in polystyrene plates of such a depth that it passes through the insulation plates and goes into the foundation by 50-60 mm. A plastic dowel is hammered into the holes, after which a special nail is driven into the dowel. The dowel caps must be flush with the insulation boards.

A special plug with a cap is driven into the polystyrene tile

4. The significant disadvantages of polystyrene include its instability to damage by rodents, therefore, from the side of the room it must be protected with a reinforcing metal mesh... The mesh is placed on a layer of cement-based glue, after which it is plastered over it. Any topcoat can be applied to dried plaster.

Roll or pasting insulation

This method is the most common one. It is performed in several layers (up to 5) with special film materials outside the building. The main requirement: the material should adhere to the walls as much as possible, ensuring tight adhesion and continuity. These can be polymer, bituminous or synthetic films that are applied to the walls from the outside. The strips are either preheated or glued to the mastic. The stripes are applied with an overlap, with gluing of the joints.

From a technical point of view, this is the most difficult method in the application technology, because it is necessary to build a protective wall, achieving the maximum density of the connection with concrete or brick. To protect the insulation from damage, you can build a protective wall - brick (half brick) or reinforced concrete. The service life of properly installed insulation is several tens of years.

Insulation of the foundation from the inside

In the case of insulating the foundation from the inside, there are few advantages:

• insulation from the inside will improve the microclimate in the basement rooms and throughout the house
• internal insulation will prevent the accumulation of condensation in the basement rooms

The disadvantages are that the foundation from the outside will continue to freeze, and as a result of the temperature difference and the influence of the forces of frost heaving of the soil, deformations of the foundation will begin with the appearance of cracks along the perimeter and inclined cracks in the structure mass.

There are enough options to insulate the foundation from the inside, but none of these options cancels the performance of high-quality waterproofing, and you should pay attention to the protection of the entire array of concrete with the help of penetrating waterproofing. It is rational to combine insulation with the interior decoration of the basement

Ways to insulate the foundation from the inside are chosen depending on factors:

• type of soil and groundwater level
• whether or not there is insulation from the inside
• temperature regime from the outside of the foundation
• the conditions that need to be created in the basement room - temperature, humidity, taking into account how ventilation and heating are solved
• design features of the house, dimensions of the basement and basement
• is it necessary decorative trim basement rooms in the future

The old proven method of thermal insulation with expanded clay is still used, despite the huge amount of new technologically advanced and effective materials. Expanded clay, poured into the gap under the floor, creates an air cushion and removes water. The floor can be insulated by placing mineral wool mats between the logs on a layer of vapor barrier made of polyethylene film.

Insulation of the foundation with expanded polystyrene

Consider a way to insulate the foundation from the inside with expanded polystyrene.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), or penoplex, for the internal thermal insulation of the basement walls, it is enough to take a thickness of 50-100 mm, depending on the climatic zone, and a compressive strength of at least 200 kPa.

1. Sand all seams and cracks in the walls, waterproof and seal with sealant or foam. Align the walls.
2. Perform waterproofing. If the foundation does not have external waterproofing and is located in heaving moist soils, it is advisable to choose a penetrating waterproofing.
3. The EPS board is glued to the walls with a special glue that is commercially available as a dry mix. You can use ready-made glue from the group of polymer or polyurethane. The glue is applied pointwise or in stripes and firmly press the sheet against the wall. The grooves available in the sheets of penoplex, when combined, give an even and tight joint. When stacking in rows, it is convenient to arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern.
4. After the glue is completely dry, the sheets of insulation are attached to the walls with special disc dowels in a plastic sheath that prevents the formation of cold bridges. The dowels are installed in drilled holes with an entry from concrete of at least 50 mm, and special nails. The dowel caps are flush with the insulation sheets, the minimum number of dowels per plate is 4 pcs.

And one more note: it is required to insulate all structures that are adjacent to the foundation, including internal partitions and walls. If we neglect the insulation, then the abutments of these walls will give cold bridges, and condensation will form in the corners of the basement.

The corners are the places with the greatest heat loss and require additional insulation. An additional layer of thermal insulation is recommended to be made 0.5 meters wide on each side of the corner. The second layer is attached using the same technique as the first.

Thus, the implementation of thermal insulation from the inside is possible, and at first glance it looks quite attractive. But experts recommend this option only as a last resort.

Another nuance: the house has already been built, and the foundation is not isolated from the outside. In this case, if a decision is made to carry out external insulation, it will require lengthy and laborious work. The foundation will have to be dug in gradually, along one wall. Moreover, the length of each trench should not be more than half the length of the foundation wall. And only after backfilling and compaction of one trench can one proceed to the next, since it is not only unreasonable, but also dangerous to artificially reduce the bearing capacity of the soils of the base of an already built house.

And the most "difficult" case is if there is simply no information about the state of the foundation, for example, a house with an uninsulated foundation is purchased. In this case, in order to insulate the foundation, it will be necessary to conduct an investigation through local excavations, determine the depth of the base and the state of the concrete of the structure, draw conclusions and choose the type and method of installing the necessary thermal insulation.

The choice of insulation for the base

Among the wide variety of modern heaters, only polymer-based plate and spray materials fully meet the above requirements. Let's consider their characteristics in more detail.

Expanded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene foam

Warming with expanded polystyrene

Foamed polystyrene (polystyrene) has been used as a heater for a long time, and still does not give up its positions. It retains heat excellently, does not accumulate moisture, is easy to cut and is lightweight for effortless installation. In addition, polystyrene has the lowest cost among other polymeric heaters, and this is a weighty argument in its favor for thermal insulation of large areas or a limited budget.

Insulation of the basement with foam

To insulate the basement, it is necessary to choose PSB-S 25 or PSB-S 35 foam plastic, which is characterized by increased density and resistance to mechanical stress. The thickness of the slabs varies between 20-100 mm, and depending on climatic conditions, the insulation can be laid in 1 or 2 layers. The material withstands temperature drops from -60 ° C to + 80 ° C without changing its characteristics, so it is not afraid of the most severe frosts and summer heat. The service life, on average, is 25 years, and with a high-quality arrangement of the heat-insulating pie, it will be 10 years longer.

Styrofoam characteristics

Despite all the advantages, foam also has disadvantages: it has low bending strength, that is, it is quite fragile, and is often damaged by rodents.

The mice gnaw through the insulation

In addition, in the absence of waterproofing, moisture penetrates into the upper layers of the material and, freezing, provokes crumbling of the slabs.

Extruded polystyrene foam

EPPS has a denser structure than foam, and the size of its cells does not exceed 1 mm. This results in almost zero water absorption and greater mechanical strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is also more resistant to chemical attack, microorganisms, shrinkage deformations. Due to its low vapor permeability, this insulation is not recommended for use on wooden surfaces, but it is ideal for thermal insulation of plinths.

Penoplex

EPS is in high demand, the most popular are Penoplex, TechnoNIKOL XPS, Styrofoam, TEPLEX, URSA XPS heaters. They are produced in slabs of various thicknesses and densities, standard sizes- 1200x600 mm and 2400x600 mm. The material can withstand temperatures from -50 to + 75 ° C without loss of characteristics, is easy to assemble and lasts for about 50 years, subject to the laying technology.

TechnoNICOL extruded polystyrene foam

Thermal insulation Ursa XPS

The disadvantages include the flammability of the insulation - almost all EPPS brands have a flammability class G3 and G4. When melted, the material releases toxic substances.

Penoplex burning

Another disadvantage is the high cost. However, properly executed thermal insulation quickly pays for all the costs with the beginning of the heating season.

Sprayed insulation

Insulation of the PPU base

Polyurethane foam is at the same time heat, sound and waterproofing of a house. It is suitable for insulating all parts of a building, from roof to foundation, and has excellent adhesion to all types of substrates. Its main advantage is the absence of seams, since a continuous coating is formed during spraying, strong and durable.

Seamless insulation of the base

The insulation process takes very little time, the material hardens in seconds and you can immediately start finishing.

The only difficulty is that a special installation and skills to work with it are required to apply the insulation. The services of a specialist, like renting an installation, are not cheap, but if you take into account the durability of such thermal insulation, then there is still a benefit. A layer of polyurethane foam with a thickness of 50 mm at a density of 36 kg / m3 replaces an EPSP layer with a thickness of 120 mm, and lasts at least 50 years.

PPU spraying

External insulation of the foundation and basement

Video - Insulation of the basement with polyurethane foam

Expanded clay

Due to its porosity, expanded clay is several times more effective insulation than sand, and since its cost is also low, it is widely used. For insulation, even a small layer of expanded clay is enough, since the thermal insulation properties of the material are very high.

Prepared expanded clay must be poured into the formwork when it comes to insulating the basement during construction. If insulation occurs after completion construction works, then the material is poured into the prepared trench. Do not mix expanded clay with concrete, as this mixture will not give the desired result.

Expanded clay is very often used for floor insulation, but in this case it is necessary to lay a layer of mineral wool and a waterproofing film on top, since the material is quite fragile.

Internal insulation

It is necessary to start the internal waterproofing by equipping the upper area of ​​the base with a horizontal layer of protection. For an additional level of protection, the lower and upper base / plinth area can be insulated. It is necessary to lay the material at a distance of about 20-30 cm from the blind area. The insulation material is various membranes made on the basis of bitumen, but they have a small adhesive capacity, which is why they will have to be systematically replaced. If finances allow, then you can use membrane films, they have higher characteristics and efficiency.

Penetrating insulation

Penetrating insulation is a type of internal waterproofing. It reliably protects the basement from moisture and cold.

By right, penetrating waterproofing is considered the best means for isolation. This composition easily penetrates into the structure of the walls, which makes the concrete waterproof. This method is very easy to apply, so the insulation can be completely done. on their own... If the groundwater level is elevated, then it is necessary to perform vertical insulation from the inside.

In this situation, special attention should be paid to the junction of the floor with the plinth.

Here the material can be:

• geomembrane;
• penetrating waterproofing;
• liquid glass.

If waterproofing was not carried out during the construction stages, it is very difficult to carry out internal work in the future. In this case, standard roll and mastic insulation materials will not be effective due to negative water pressure.

Use cement-based mixtures. However, leaks will have to be repaired periodically. If you carry out internal insulation efficiently and correctly, then the effectiveness of external insulation will be much higher.

Finishing work

This stage is mostly decorative. The finishing of the insulated basement must be designed even before the start of the insulation process. If you plan to use siding or wooden lining as a finishing material, then, first of all, you need to create a high-quality lathing of the building to the very foundation.

When using wooden blocks, they must be impregnated with an anti-corrosion solution that protects the wood from rotting and the formation of mold.

Important! The part of the bar that falls below ground level and will contact the ground is recommended to be opened with an additional layer of bitumen mastic or resin. ... In the case when expanded clay is used, the resulting blind area requires careful protection

For this, experts recommend using high-strength and natural-resistant decorative mosaics or tiles. It must be installed in such a way that there is an equal gap between the tiles, which is achieved by using special tile crosses. After the adhesive solution has dried, they are removed, and the resulting voids are sealed with a special cement-based grout. Such a finish of the insulated basement implies the creation of an additional protective layer.

In the case when expanded clay is used, the resulting blind area requires careful protection. For this, experts recommend using high-strength and natural-resistant decorative mosaics or tiles. It must be installed in such a way that there is an equal gap between the tiles, which is achieved by using special tile crosses. After the adhesive solution has dried, they are removed, and the resulting voids are sealed with a special cement-based grout. Such a finish of the insulated basement implies the creation of an additional protective layer.

The result of high-quality insulation work of the basement (foundation in particular) will be a reliable warm house, which will not be susceptible to condensation in rooms and the appearance of unwanted and unhealthy black mold. Of course, the key to success is the use of only high-quality certified building materials. It is this, at first glance, trifle that usually becomes the reason for the rapid cracking of the created insulation structures with the further destruction of the whole house.

Where to place insulation outside or inside

The greatest effect is obtained by insulating the basement at the stage of building the foundation; you can use the fixed formwork of their expanded polystyrene. This combination reduces the cost of the foundation when performing the blind area. Placing insulating material outside protects the walls from freezing and moisture. The insulation layer takes on the negative influence of the environment, extending the safe operation of a private house.

If you have started to insulate the finished building and do not want to carry out labor-intensive earthwork, then choose insulation from the inside. This option will reduce heat loss and maintain a positive temperature in an unheated basement.

If the distance from the foundation to the overlap of the first floor is small, it is covered with expanded clay. When installing the basement floor, the walls are insulated with foam or expanded polystyrene plates. Liquid waterproofing is applied to the leveled surface, and after it hardens, insulating sheets are glued. The seams between the slabs are blown out with foam. A fiberglass mesh is attached to the finished surface and a layer of plaster is applied. The topcoat will not only give the insulation a neat look, but also become a fire protection.

Condensation on the inside of a base / plinth is a serious problem for home owners. The appearance of fungus and mold creates an unfavorable indoor climate. The material installed from the inside will not prevent freezing, and moisture will appear between it and the wall. External insulation is more effective in protecting the surface from moisture. Another disadvantage of placing insulation from the inside is the loss of free space. For reasons of practicality and expediency, it is better to focus on external insulation.

For houses built in difficult climatic conditions, combined insulation is used. This method is more costly, as it involves the installation of insulating materials on both sides of the base. First, insulation is performed with expanded polystyrene from the outside of the building. The inside is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, then mineral wool is placed between the guide strips. As a final finish, installation and plasterboard are performed.

Choosing a way to insulate the foundation from the inside

When choosing a method, you need to focus on several factors:

• Building structure, basement or semi-basement dimensions;
• The presence of external insulation and temperature conditions on the outside of the foundation;
• Soil type and location of groundwater;
• The required temperature regime in the basement after insulation, the presence of heating and ventilation;
• The need for further decorative finishing.

A cheap method of internal thermal insulation of the foundation is filling the space under the floor with expanded clay. This material removes water and creates an air cushion that protects the floors of the first floor from cooling. You can fill up both the entire space under the floor, and the formwork installed on the inside at a certain distance from the foundation walls.

If the basement is used to accommodate household premises, and its walls need not only insulation, but also finishing, it is advisable to use polystyrene or polystyrene foam boards, allowing you to create an even coating, ready for cladding. The best quality and most durable in this case will be the insulation of the foundation, both outside and inside - by eliminating the temperature difference, you can avoid the formation of condensation on the inner walls of the basement. If insulation from the outside is not possible, it is necessary to perform: the concrete treated in this way is not susceptible to freezing, but retains vapor permeability, reducing the moisture under the insulation plates. It is also necessary to arrange supply and exhaust ventilation, since these materials do not allow moisture to pass through.

If funds allow, you can choose thermal insulation with polyurethane foam - this method is effective and suitable for any basement.

Work order

Before insulating the basement of the house from the outside, you need to accurately calculate the required amount of materials for:

• thermal insulation;
• waterproofing;
• priming;
• fixation.

All of them are purchased with a small margin. So, for example, when buying insulation for a basement basement, you will need to purchase additional slabs, the total area of ​​which will be at least 3 m².

Carrying out the insulation of the basement of the building from the outside with your own hands, you must first of all properly prepare the surface, which will require:

• clean it from possible contamination;
• remove destroyed fragments;
• to expand the detected cracks and cracks;
• apply a layer of deep penetrating primer. Read more about insulation in this video:

After that, you can prepare a mixture to restore the integrity of the surface of the outer sides of the base. It is better to use cement-sand plaster, and to fill deep cracks and crevices - polyurethane foam.

You can properly insulate the basement in a private house on your own, abandoning the sprayed polyurethane foam and completing the work on arranging the insulated surface of the basement of the house outside with expanded polystyrene.

If you wish, you can use polystyrene, however, in an effort to provide the basement with full protection, it is better to insulate the basement by fixing foam polystyrene plates (expanded polystyrene foam) on it.

Polyfoam does not guarantee high-quality protection against moisture, rodents, fungus and mold, and therefore, when deciding what is the best way to use to achieve this goal and equip the insulated basement, many private home owners opt for penoplex.

Level the plinth with plaster

Installation of this external insulation requires careful leveling of the surface. For this, the first layer of plaster is laid over the lighthouses. After drying, you need to treat the entire aligned wall of the above-foundation part of the house with a primer, and only then proceed to fix the reinforcing mesh. The peculiarity of this stage is that you need to know how to properly lay the mesh intended for reinforcement.

The web is cut into separate pieces, having previously determined the size of each of them so that an overlap is provided during laying, and the upper and lower edges of the mesh remain free and can be used to reinforce the outer layer of thermal insulation. Thus, the reinforcing mesh seems to wrap up the thermal insulation.

Installation of waterproofing is a prerequisite for insulating a basement

The mesh is attached to the leveled plinth with an adhesive composition, which fixes foam plates or a thin layer of plaster mixture. A secure fit does not require knots. It is carried out when overlapping strips are laid. Each node can cause poor-quality fastening due to the penetration of air between the layers of the thermal insulation cake.

We apply an adhesive composition to the tile, which can be foam cement or a special mixture, and press it tightly against the surface of the base. Fixation is carried out after a few seconds. Further, the basement floor should be insulated by fixing the foam boards on its surface along the entire perimeter of the building.

The next stage is additional fixation and plastering. To do this, you need to overlap the upper and lower edges of the mesh for reinforcement, fix them with plastic mushrooms:

• drill a hole in the foam board;
• hammer in the dowel fungus;
• screw in a self-tapping screw.

A well-laid mesh is covered with a second layer of plaster mixture and rubbed over. The final stage is finishing the basement. For this purpose, plastic panels, artificial stone or ceramic tile... For more information on the installation of insulation, see this video:

Having completed all the work and equipped with high-quality and effective thermal insulation, they create comfortable living conditions in a private house, achieve significant energy savings and extend the life of the building.

Insulation of the foundation outside

External thermal insulation of the foundation - reinsurance and a waste of money and time?

Definitely not. It is necessary to insulate the foundation both from the outside and from the inside. The house loses 20-25% of its heat through its foundation. But the owners of private houses do not always consider it necessary to insulate the foundation, especially in cases where the basement is not used. And in vain, since good insulation of the foundation from the outside significantly reduces heat loss, reduces humidity in the basement and greatly extends the life of the foundation, and therefore the whole house.

Why is it more important to carry out external insulation of the foundation, because it is easier to insulate the basement from the inside? In this case, you can control the state of the thermal insulation, if necessary, it is easy to make small repairs. And what will happen to the outer layer, covered with soil, after a couple of seasons, after all the movements of the soil from frost heaving, after all, you will not see.

But this is a weak argument. Isolation of the basement room from low temperatures is good. But the materials from which the foundation is made, without external protection, will experience all the destructive effects of cold and water. Concrete is a material with a capillary structure and will absorb moisture. The volumetric expansion of water during freezing is about 9%, and sooner or later the concrete will begin to crumble and lose strength. The protective layer of the working reinforcement is 50 mm in foundations of this type, and when microcracks reach the reinforcement, its corrosion will begin, and the process of destruction of the foundation will increase.

Briefly about the need for external insulation of the foundation:

• insulation of the foundation from the outside will protect it from freezing and destruction. The dew point shifts towards thermal insulation, which copes much more effectively with cold and moisture than a concrete mass
• when using any kind of insulation, external thermal insulation prevents freezing of the foundation and creates a barrier to negative temperatures
• external thermal insulation protects concrete, preserving its quality, and ensures the specified strength of the foundation structure for a long time
• external thermal insulation works in conjunction with waterproofing, protecting the foundation from capillary moisture and ground water
• external thermal insulation creates a barrier to seasonal temperature changes that occur in basement rooms

But in cases where the house has already been built without thermal insulation of the foundation, and there is no way to insulate it from the outside, there is nothing left but to insulate it from the inside.

Heaters for the basement

Building materials for insulation

1. Styrofoam ... It is made from polystyrene granules by steam treatment, as a result of which they are saturated with air, grow strongly in size and sinter. Foam has excellent thermal insulation performance, light weight, it is cheap and does not need vapor barrier. Its disadvantages include flammability, weak mechanical strength, especially when bending, besides, rodents love it very much.

2. Extruded polystyrene foam... It is obtained from molten polystyrene granules, whose melt is extruded through the die of an extruder while simultaneously foaming with an inert gas. The result is a structure with many closed, gas-filled cells. The peculiarities of the structure of PE give it a special moisture resistance (it actually does not absorb water). It is not subject to biological degradation, due to which it is able to serve for a very long time without loss of functionality. Chemical stability, mechanical strength, environmental friendliness and resistance to fire also made it an even more popular material among other heat insulators.

3. Mineral wooldue to its hygroscopicity, it is a poor choice for thermal insulation of the basement, since it is subject to regular exposure to atmospheric precipitation, and wet mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties.

Also, to insulate the basement and basement of the house, coarse expanded clay slabs, polyurethane foam and other special materials are used.

Insulation of the foundation outside

Due to the external treatment of the foundation from cold weather, the structure of buildings acquires reliable protection against freezing. This is due to the fact that now the subzero temperature will only affect the insulation, but not the foundation. Thanks to him, the frost resistance of the base of the house increases significantly, and he himself becomes more protected in conditions of harsh or variable climatic conditions.

The importance of waterproofing basements

The plinth takes on a significant load in the form of temperature changes and aggressive climatic factors. Therefore, its reliable protection is required - waterproofing and insulation from the outside and from the inside. The duration of the operation of the building directly depends on their quality.

Most often, the foundation is built from special porous FBS slabs (block wall foundation). If it is not reliably protected, then the negative impact of atmospheric moisture will gradually lead to the destruction of steel reinforcement, subsidence of the building and crumbling of the monolith.

In addition, a wet basement is the cause of constant mold and dampness on the walls and floor, which is considered unacceptable for maintaining a healthy atmosphere in the house.

How to insulate the basement of a house from the outside, from the inside

You can install thermal insulation from the street and from the inside. External insulation of the basement with polystyrene or polystyrene foam is more reliable, since it protects against freezing. The outer layer of polystyrene foam protects structures from negative temperatures, and if extruded polystyrene foam is used, it will improve the waterproofing characteristics. Extrusion is a vapor-proof material and retains its properties in a humid environment.

Photo. Thermal insulation of a blockage of a wooden house with penoplex

How to insulate the basement of a house with penoplex

Extrusion (penoplex and technoplex) is a foamed heat-insulating material made of expanded polystyrene, which has air in closed cells. Extruded polystyrene foam is a very light material, but at the same time the boards are strong enough and can withstand heavy mechanical loads. Since the cells in the material are closed, the penoplex has zero vapor permeability, UV resistance and low thermal conductivity.

Before carrying out work, you will need to prepare the surfaces - remove all dust and dirt, level the base, make waterproofing. Before laying, the foam boards are cut to the required size and placed on the base using polyurethane foam or dry mix. The seams between the plates must be sealed with polyurethane foam so that cold bridges do not appear in the structure. It is possible to lay insulation, as we have already said, from the outside and from the inside.

Photo. Insulation of the basement and blind area of ​​the house with foam plastic

How to insulate the basement of a house with foam

Before laying the slab insulation, do not forget about the preparation of surfaces, as described earlier. Foam plates are laid on the foam close to each other. All seams between the boards must be thoroughly foamed. Polyfoam requires additional protection from precipitation, melt water and moisture from the ground, since the material absorbs moisture. The best option would be to cover the plinth from the outside with plinth siding or PVC siding.

Cladding made of siding or panels will protect the insulation from mechanical damage and will give an aesthetic appearance to the plinth. At the end of the article, a video has been added with detailed instructions on how to independently carry out the work. Note that the polyurethane foam should be immediately protected from ultraviolet radiation. From the sun's rays polyurethane foam begins to crumble and quickly collapses, reducing the thermal insulation of the brick basement of the house.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the basement insulation, you need to carefully prepare

In addition to purchasing the selected material and selecting the necessary tools and fasteners, it is important to prepare the surface. If you do not know how to correctly complete all the steps, then you should familiarize yourself with three main points, which will be enough for successful work.

At the first stage, it is necessary to go deeper, that is, prepare a trench up to half a meter wide (the depth is individual). The second stage involves the complete cleaning of the wall from earth, debris and even dust. At the third stage, the wall must be protected from moisture; for this, waterproofing is done (for example, with bitumen mastic).

If there are obvious irregularities on the wall, then they must be eliminated before insulation begins. Waterproofing is applied in two layers, with the first one having to dry completely before the second one can be applied to it.

Types of pipes

Polypropylene

Advantages:

• Cheapness of pipes and fittings;
• Simple installation using low temperature socket welding;
• Long service life on cold and, to a lesser extent, on hot water(50 and 25 years, respectively);
• Extremely low hydraulic resistance of the water supply system due to smooth walls.

Peculiarities:

• Large elongation of pipes during heating, requiring the installation of expansion joints on long straight sections;

However: fiber and foil reinforced polypropylene pipes, used on hot water, have several times lower, in comparison with unreinforced polypropylene, the coefficient of linear expansion.

• Falling resource and maximum allowable pressure when heated above 70-75 ° C;
• Water pipe bends are possible only through the use of fittings. The pipe is supplied in straight sections and installed in straight sections.

Application:

1. Cold water supply systems - no restrictions.
2. DHW pipelines - except for those connected to open heat supply systems (with the supply of technical hot water from the heating main).

Metal-plastic

Advantages:

• Easy installation on compression fittings, requiring a primitive hand tool (pipe cutter, calibrator and a pair of wrenches);

• Durability (the same 50 years for cold water and at least 25 on hot);
• Bend mountable, reducing the need for relatively expensive fittings.

Features: sensitivity of connections (especially on compression fittings) to the quality of installation. Attempting to connect an unevenly cut and uncalibrated pipe to a fitting will result in guaranteed hot water leaks after several heating / cooling cycles.

Application: areas of application and limitations are the same as for polypropylene.

Galvanized

Advantages:

• Unlike black steel water and gas pipes, galvanized pipes do not rust or become overgrown with deposits;
• It perfectly tolerates overheating up to the theoretically possible maximum in an open heat supply system of +150 degrees, pressure surges and water shocks up to 50 atmospheres;
• With a declared service life on the water supply of 30 years, zinc plating lasts at least twice as long. In any case, galvanized pipes in houses built in the 60s are still in excellent condition.

Features: galvanized pipe can only be mounted on threaded fittings, which implies labor-intensive adjustment of the sizes of nozzles and squeegees, as well as manual cutting a large number threads. The installation of galvanized steel by welding is the greatest folly, depriving it of all its advantages over black steel: zinc completely burns out in the area of ​​the weld, leaving the metal without protection from rust and deposits.

Corrugated stainless steel

Advantages:

• Highest strength (breaking pressure - more than 200 atmospheres);
• Resistance to high temperatures (the maximum allowable is + 150 ° C, and the temperature is not limited by the pipe itself, but by the temperature resistance of the silicone sealing rings in the fittings);
• The flexibility of the pipe, which greatly simplifies installation and allows you to reduce the number of fitting connections to a minimum;

• Speaking of connections: the fitting is placed on the pipe with a pair of adjustable wrenches in 30 seconds. In addition to the keys, you will need a roller pipe cutter from the tool to cut the elements of the water supply system along the length.

Features: relatively high cost running meter(with a diameter of 15 mm - from 100 rubles against 70-80 rubles for a galvanized VGP pipe).

5. Foamed polyurethane foam for insulation of the base

Foamed polyurethane foam can be safely called an ideal insulation material in terms of performance. The application of the material is carried out by special installations in which polyol and isocyanate are mixed under pressure, which leads to the synthesis of a polymer and the formation carbon dioxide... The latter creates bubbles isolated from each other. Spraying is carried out in a thin layer on a previously prepared base.

Advantages:

• high thermal insulation properties, which are provided, in particular, due to the bubbles of carbon dioxide, because the coefficient of its thermal conductivity is lower than that of air;
• mold and mildew resistance;
• solidity of the insulation layer, filling of all cracks and defects, absence of seams;
• strength, rigidity, elasticity and lightness of the material;
• high degree of maintainability. In which case, the damaged area can be repaired with a new portion of the polymer;
• high speed of work - the basement is insulated within one day.

Among disadvantages the high price of the material and the impossibility of independent work - you need special equipment, reagents and the ability to handle them. In addition, the insulation is afraid of the sun's rays, so it is better to try to finish the facade as soon as possible.

The choice of waterproofing method, depending on the design of the base

Each element of the house carries a functional, semantic and architectural load. In fact, the plinth is part of the foundation. In some types of buildings, the base is monolithic and the division is conditional. It is generally accepted that the basement is a part of the house located between the upper boundary of the soil and the floor level, although technically this element can be a single structure with a foundation, but unlike the latter, decorative finishing is required.

The functions of the base are as follows:

• the basis of the load-bearing part of the house. Walls, floor slabs or joists rest on the plinth;
• protection against moisture penetration;
• is part of the basement structure;
• increases the energy efficiency of the house, as it reliably protects the building from cold soil, with which direct contact is excluded;
• as the visible part of the facade plays an architectural and aesthetic role.

The design of the building notes the structural features of the lower part of the building, since it is the basis of the structure and further operation depends on the form, material and installation technology.

According to the position relative to the wall of the house, the basement is usually divided into three types:

• Westerner. The front plane of the basement is shifted inward and is located under the main wall of the house. Technologically the most optimal way from the point of view of protecting the building from moisture. The waterproofing of the basement basement is covered by the supporting structures of the house and is less exposed to external forces than in other types;
• Speaker. The facade of the house with this type of base gives the appearance of the facade solidity and visual reliability. Having chosen this option, you should focus on installing the waterproofing of the basement from the outside, since it is open to direct exposure to solar radiation, rain, hail and snow;
• In the same plane as the wall. The option differs little from the previous type in terms of functional characteristics. Serious measures are required to ensure reliable protection of the building.

Depending on the tasks of creating the exterior of the house, a constructive solution is selected. But in any form, the waterproofing of the basement from the outside must be maximized. If insulation is provided, then an outer layer of protection against moisture is also made on top of it.

Insulation is not always provided on the inside. They do it as needed, for example, when the basement or basement is used as an office space or workshop, which is not desirable. Moisture penetration from the soil is not the only reason. Waterproofing of the basement floor is done from the inside in the case when a sauna or pool is arranged in the room.

Base types

It is recommended to use non-hygroscopic materials as insulation, for example, expanded polystyrene boards. Mineral wool is not the best option, but with proper protection, this method is acceptable. The disadvantage of absorbent substances is their possible wetting and freezing during cold weather.

For the construction of the foundation and plinth, this will be a significant load, since mineral wool is able to retain moisture under the decorative cladding for a long time.

When equipping a basement for specific purposes, it is necessary to have accurate geodetic data on seasonal fluctuations in the groundwater level. Consultation with neighbors and information in the regional bodies of the State Geology will help to correctly determine the waterproofing technology of the building.

Projects modern houses provide owners with the maximum level of comfort. , home theater or billiard room are becoming a familiar attribute of everyday life. It is inexpedient to equip premises of this orientation in the main area of ​​housing. Therefore, they are often taken to the basement or semi-basement space.

If we reasonably approach the solution of this problem, then high-quality waterproofing and insulation of the basement floor will increase the usable area of ​​housing, which is not inferior in comfort to the upper level.

There are many quality materials on the market today to achieve the required degree of protection. The variety of products in this category allows you to create a space with precise characteristics.

Insulation of the basement with sheet polystyrene foam, under which the waterproofing layer is visible

The maximum degree of protection, where effective thermal insulation is provided, will allow the premises to be used as living quarters. A cold cellar is perfect for storing food. The area with a humidity and temperature controlled regime is suitable for wine connoisseurs.

Hidden and open

Here are the arguments in favor of the author's point of view:

1. There is no eternal communication... Sooner or later, any pipeline leaks. And it is desirable that to eliminate the leak you do not have to tear off the tiles from the walls or open the floor;

Note: even polymer and metal-polymer pipes with an estimated service life of half a century can leak much earlier than the resource is exhausted. No one is safe from factory defects or mistakes in the installation of a pipeline connection.

1. Some fitting connections require maintenance... For example, compression fittings on a corrugated stainless pipe will sooner or later need to replace the O-rings, and fittings on metal-reinforced plastic may need to tighten the union nuts;
2. Finally, the open wiring allows you to cut the piping for a new plumbing fixture into the existing water pipe at any time.... Imagine deciding to install a dishwasher in the kitchen, a new washer in the bathroom, or a hygienic faucet in the toilet. The ability to mount them without opening the walls will be a very pleasant addition to the simplicity of the open installation of the water supply system.

A special case

In addition: if it is impossible to lay the suburban water supply system in the ground below the freezing level (for example, on rocky soils under a thin layer of chernozem), it can be equipped with a cable heating system laid inside a foamed insulation.

The service life depends on the strength of the base of the construction object. After all, it bears the main load of the architectural structure. From the impact of a number of negative factors, including high humidity, the base is destroyed. Protection of the foundation from moisture is an important task for builders at the initial construction cycle of an object.

The foundation is the main barrier between groundwater and the basement. Lack of moisture protection or an ill-conceived option contributes to the formation of mold, mildew and dampness. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out external waterproofing and basement. The porous structure of concrete is well impregnated with water, and subsequently:

• cracking;
• loss of room heat;
• the appearance of fungus and mold;
• the basement can be filled with water.

Therefore, it is necessary to provide for reliable protection of the foundation from groundwater and moisture. The work should be carried out at the initial stage of construction.

Possible protection options

There are several technologies to protect the foundation from destruction:

• Removing excess moisture from the soil using a drainage system.
• Creation of a waterproofing layer.

Possible methods do not cancel each other, in certain cases they are used together. In case of high humidity, increased protection is required.

Anti-corrosion measures are provided by technological standards at the stage of production of structures. During the manufacturing process, chemical components are added to the working composition. Under the conditions of real operation, the indicators of anti-corrosion protection are adjusted downward. Therefore, at the zero construction cycle, all the necessary methods are considered.

Possible types of anti-corrosion measures (define two levels of protection) are set out in SP 28.13330.2012.

Drainage of rain and melt water from the construction site is mandatory to avoid waterlogging of the soil. A vertical leveling of the site is being carried out, giving a special slope.

The method of protecting the foundation from water is selected after conducting hydrogeological studies.

Waterproofing materials

To protect the basement of the foundation from moisture, waterproofing work is carried out. The material varies in reliability, device complexity and cost. Foundation waterproofing is made of several types:

• survey mastic (combined, polymer, bitumen compositions);
• coloring mixture (special paints);
• roll products (roofing felt, roofing felt).

A protective barrier is created outside and inside the building. The materials used must have good adhesion, adhere tightly to the surface, and form a layer of uniform thickness. In this case, you will get reliable protection against excess moisture, dampness, the formation of fungus, mold.

How to protect the foundation from moisture outside the building, which material is better to use? To perform construction operations, the following is used:

• bituminous mastic;
• roll waterproofing;
• polyurea (resin and isocyanate);
• PVC membrane with pimples.

The protective layer will be covered with earth and subjected to high pressure. Therefore, the waterproofing must have a good safety margin. For outdoor work, it is not recommended to use thin polymer films, solutions based on liquid rubber, acrylic.

Bituminous mastic is used to prepare the surface of the base. Rolled waterproofing is fused with a second layer. It is recommended to stack the rolls with overlapping seams in several rows.

Polyurea is applied to the cleaned surface from dust and dirt using a spray gun. The composition of resin and isocyanate creates a durable film that does not allow water to pass through. The product is well fixed to concrete. Spraying is carried out several times.

The membrane made of polyvinyl chloride (with pimples) is attached to the surface using special pins. The material is durable and does not allow moisture to pass through.

Waterproofing inside the building

For internal work, penetrating compounds are used. The impregnation penetrates the concrete structure and makes it waterproof. This makes it easier to protect the foundation from moisture from the inside. For work is used:

• liquid rubber;
• penetrating waterproofing;
• polyurea.

The technology for applying a waterproofing solution is performed in the following order:

1. The wall is wetted with water.
2. A penetrating composition is applied.
3. The treated surface is kept moist for three days. To achieve good polymerization of the composition. Otherwise, the waterproofing will be of poor quality.

Drainage system

On wet soils, additional work has to be done to drain water. To prevent the basement from flooding, a drainage system is made around the building.

To drain water around the perimeter of the house, drain pipes and gutters are installed and wellpoints are used. The structure is mounted on clay soils capable of heaving in winter period... Drainage is laid at the stage of digging a pit under the base of the house. There are several types of construction:

• vertical;
• open;
• trench.

For the implementation of the system, perforated drainage pipes are often used. There are no technical restrictions when laying the material, and installation is easy. It is not difficult to protect the foundation from moisture with your own hands. To drain the water, special wells and sump are built.

Water intake devices (wellpoints, vacuum pumps) are installed for seasonal lowering of the water level. Drains are installed to drain the soil and protect the foundation from rain.

The permissible depth of the drainage pipes is from 4 to 5 meters. Sand and gravel sprinkling is required on top.

How else to protect the foundation from external influences? At the very base of the construction site, a kind of drainage is performed. The blind area is made from various materials:

• paving slabs;
• asphalt concrete;
• cement-concrete mix

The strip width is 0.6-1.2 meters. The purpose of the structure is to divert rain and melt water from the outer walls of the building. In addition, it is a wonderful decorative element of landscaping. The blind area should be combined with the architecture of the object and complement landscape design adjacent territory.

The technology for performing work involves a bedding layer (crushed stone, sand, clay) and a decorative coating.

The structure should not be washed out by water and not let it through.

So how to protect the foundation from freezing, and is it necessary to carry out additional actions? Insulation of the base of the construction site is necessary. If the process is not followed, the walls will be covered with mold and cracks will form. The resulting defects are good conductors of cold, and as a result, lead to the destruction of the base of the structure.

The base unprotected by special materials will crack from low temperature and moisture.

Insulation is carried out outside the building in several ways:

• Thermal insulation material is laid into the formwork when the foundation is poured. In the process of carrying out the work, fewer gaps are formed.
• Insulation is laid on the basis of the constructed object.

They often resort to insulation inside the building. In addition, a diffuse film is used with the base material. It helps to trap moisture and condensation penetration. Work is carried out in the following cases:

• The house is built on an uninsulated foundation.
• The basement is being converted into a living room.
• Strong exposure to moisture.
• Damp the insulating material.

Insulation is one of the ways to protect the foundation from the moisture of an already built house.

Insulation for the base of the building must have:

• Low heat transfer rates.
• Durability.
• Resistant to temperature changes.
• Lack of ability to pass water.

A reliable option for protecting the base of a building is laying bitumen rolls. The next option: processing the inside of the object with penetrating impregnation, and from the outside to make a blind area. Roofing material is laid at the junction of the wall and foundation. Otherwise, dampness in the building is guaranteed.

From time to time, TV channels tell us how a whole house or part of it suddenly collapsed somewhere. We do not want to scare you, as idle TV people do. But let's say that there is no "sudden" in the case of the destruction of a building. Any structure starts from the foundation and rests on it. If it is not strong enough and moisture resistant, then the house will not stand for a long time. The most common reason destruction of the foundation - dampness, moisture, loose and water-saturated soil, heterogeneous soil, the beginning of the construction of a new house or a road nearby. It only seems that the foundation is heavy and will withstand everything. No, it is, first of all, a movable structure that is sensitive to any load and changes in the environment. Polyurethane mastic will help protect the foundation from destruction.

How to understand that your foundation is in danger

There are several signs that can help you identify the problem in the first step. Usually, thin cracks, spots, mold on the walls inside the house, distortions of door and window structures appear on the foundation, then the external finish begins to collapse, the floor deforms, some parts of the building collapse, the soil falls along the structure. If you notice cracks, it is worth checking the stability of the base.

The most common problem in Russian latitudes is excess moisture. Usually concrete is used for the foundation. It is a porous material that can take in some water. But if there is too much of it, then the concrete will not cope. In addition, moisture can linger inside, freeze and thus destroy the material.

How to save the foundation

The easiest way is to take care of the strength and waterproofing of the foundation, to ensure drainage and drainage along the building, even at the construction stage. The main thing is to make sure that water does not accumulate at the base of the house. If you don't think about drainage at all, then after a few years the foundation of the house will begin to crack. This happens even with the highest quality materials.

Which waterproofing to choose

There are several main types of waterproofing. To choose the best option for you, you need to understand what type of soil you are dealing with, how deep the groundwater goes, at what depth the foundation is located, what is it made of, what size the building is.

There is one simple way to check how deep the groundwater goes. In the spring or fall, dig small holes where you plan to build your house. And look to what level the water reaches in them. This will determine how deep the foundation can be set.

If you notice that there are many marsh plants and sedges near the site, then the water is close.

We decided to arrange a basement or basement, which means that waterproofing is needed for sure.

Very often in such cases, vertical insulation is used together with roll materials based on bitumen. Another option is coating insulation. In this case, polymer compositions are applied to the surface of the foundation. Some recommend using both for maximum protection.

Polyurethane mastic or bitumen?

There are many types of waterproofing compounds on the market. Thanks to the development of the chemical industry, these products are becoming more and more perfect. Whereas previously it was possible to rely only on bitumen, now it has more durable alternatives.

What is the difference between bitumen and polyurethane mastic? Bitumen is one of the oldest building materials available and cheap. Polyurethane mastics appeared on the market not so long ago, but they are distinguished by their strength and elasticity, which persists for many years. Bitumen loses these properties very quickly. Its strength is enough for several years, then the physical and chemical properties of the material weaken. Polyurethane mastics can last over 40 years.

What should you choose? When it comes to large-scale works, it is cheaper to use bitumen, for example, for the construction and repair of roads. Polyurethane is needed wherever we face non-trivial tasks. For example, it is necessary to insulate the overpass, foundation, bypass, roof.

How polyurethane putty interacts with the surface

Polyurethane mastics are easy to apply - with a roller, brush or trowel. The emulsion enters the pores of the concrete, squeezes air out of them and crystallizes. After application, the polymer forms a strong film, which repels moisture due to its physicochemical properties.

Polyurethane mastic from "Khimtrast"

The company "Chemtrast" has developed its own polyurethane mastic, which can be used not only for waterproofing foundations, but also for roofs, pools, tanks, basements, terraces, balconies, tunnels, as well as under screeds and tiles, for repairing old bituminous insulation.

Mastic "Chemtrast PUMA (1k)" is available for purchase in wholesale and retail volumes. If the surface for waterproofing is not so large, and you need to perform minor repairs, then you can buy a liter or three-liter jar of mastic. You pay for the purchase through the online store on the company's website, then the product arrives at your home. You save your time on trips to hardware stores, markets and queuing.

You can also order the color of the mastic that best matches the color of your home. In this case, the indicator of moisture resistance will remain unchanged. High adhesion allows you to protect almost any surface from external influences.

How to work with polyurethane mastic

The concrete foundation on which you plan to apply the mastic must be clean, without breaks and cracks, without sharp joints. If you notice bubbles on the concrete, then its surface must be sanded and then cleaned of dust and dirt. It is also necessary to get rid of moisture from the foundation. The best time for work is a sunny dry day without precipitation.

How to check if the surface is dry enough? A few hours before applying the mastic, place a small piece of polyethylene on the surface of the concrete and check for condensation. If it is not there, then you can start work.

For better adhesion, the company's specialists recommend applying a primer to the concrete - "Chemtrast Primer-PM (1k)". One coat of primer should be sufficient. An hour after that, you can start applying the mastic. Before use, the material must be mixed using a mixer with a spiral nozzle.

Then take a roller or paint brush and apply the first coat of polyurethane mastic from top to bottom. The layer should not be thick, literally 1-2 millimeters. After a day, you can add a second layer of thicker mastic. Use aliphatic mastic to protect the surface from UV rays.

When working with polyurethane mastic, observe safety precautions, work in a gas mask or protective mask, in special clothing that will cover all parts of your body.

After work, rinse all brushes with acetone, and store the mastic in a tightly closed container to prevent polymerization.

Chemtrast specialists are always ready to tell you which polymer is best suited for your purposes. Our warehouses can be found in Novosibirsk, Irkutsk, Yekaterinburg, Krasnoyarsk, Voronezh, Yaroslavl, Nizhny Novgorod, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Samara and Ufa.

The basement is one of the most important parts of the building. This is a kind of support that is constantly exposed to the negative influence of the environment. Finishing the basement of a private house not only gives it an aesthetic appearance, but also protects it from adverse factors. Therefore, finishing materials must be moisture-resistant, frost-resistant, reliable and durable.

Most of the building's foundations are below ground level and hidden from view. The part that protrudes above ground level is called the base. According to the norms, the height of the basement from the ground should be at least 20 cm. It is usually made of brick, stone or concrete slabs.

The construction of a stone plinth is the most practical solution, since the structure does not need additional finishing. However, it should be borne in mind that this is the most expensive way. Brick plinth masonry is more affordable. This material is environmentally friendly, has a low and good characteristics strength.

The cladding of the basement of the house is not only aesthetic in nature. This is a reliable protection of the building from external influences. The finishing materials that will be used for the plinth cladding must have a high level of strength. Together with the plinth, its cladding will perceive the load created by the wall structures of the building and distribute it evenly over the foundation of the building. It must withstand pressure and protect the base from external factors such as precipitation, sunlight, humidity, temperature fluctuations.

The finishing material protects the foundation of the building from damage by mold, fungus and various types of insects. The cladding of the basement is carried out with the aim of insulating the building. It is also necessary to protect the foundation from severe frosts, under the influence of which its strength decreases and the erosion process develops.

Leaving the surface of the plinth without plating will contribute to its slow destruction as a result of constant exposure to dry or liquid dirt containing aggressive chemicals and minerals.

Various options for finishing the basement of a private house, the photos clearly confirm this, turn the building into a masterpiece of design art, making its appearance complete and unique.

Varieties of basement structures

There are basic design variations that are used for projects of houses with a plinth:

• protruding beyond the surface of the walls;
• flush with the building;
• sinking, relative to the wall.

Most often, when building a private house, a photo of the basement of the house clearly confirms this, they use the first two options. A protruding plinth is recommended when the house is being built with thin outer walls, a warm underground is used, or a basement is provided in the building. In these cases, this type of base will provide the building with additional thermal insulation.

If the basement part is flush with the building, when thin walls are used for its construction, dampness and condensation in the interior are inevitable. Here, the most problematic is to install thermal insulation and finish.

Important! When choosing these types of base, you should take care of the arrangement of ebb tides in advance.

The western base is less damaged by the influence of atmospheric precipitation. Here you can easily hide waterproofing, equip insulation and perform cladding with the necessary materials, which contributes to a longer service life. This type of base is recommended for buildings without a basement. The finishing materials for the plinth will take up the pressure of the ground, performing a supporting function, thereby maintaining the safety of the entire structure.

The procedure for finishing the basement of the house

All work on the cladding of the basement structure is carried out at the final stage of production - the exterior decoration of the building. Work is best done in warm, dry weather. The plinth plating consists of the following steps, which are performed in a specific sequence:

1. A trench 20 cm deep and 50 cm wide is being dug along the entire perimeter of the building.
2. Filling the space with gravel to ensure drainage. Additionally, the trench can be strengthened using a reinforcing mesh.
3. The surface of the wall, 50-70 cm high for the future basement, is cleaned of dirt and processed. If necessary, all irregularities are eliminated.
4. Arrangement of thermal insulation.
5. Decorative cladding for the base / plinth.

The choice of cladding material and the way it is laid depends on the design of the base and the method of its casting.

Arrangement of outflows for the base of the foundation

To protect the basement from the negative effects of precipitation, an ebb tide should be installed, which is fixed above the protruding part of the basement, and is a kind of delimiter between the base of the building and the wall structure. One part touches the wall at a certain angle, and the other hangs over the foundation, blocking it, collecting rain and melt water.

The ebb for the plinth is strips of 50-400 mm in size. The color, size and shape of the ebb should be selected depending on the finishing material of the foundation. The water-repellent structure can be made by yourself using waterproof materials, or you can buy ready-made ebbs for the basement base at any hardware store.

Today the industry produces several types of ebb:

• plastic;
• metal;
• concrete;
• clinker.

The type of ebb is selected on the basis of the finishing material for the facade of the building. The most successful combination of plastic ebbs with vinyl siding, which is used for cladding a building. Thanks to a wide range of colors, you can choose the most appropriate option. The use of concrete or clinker plinths is preferable for buildings that are clad natural stone or brick. Metal visors can be used with any kind of finishing material.

Varieties of ebb

The most budget option is the use of plastic moldings made of polyvinyl chloride. The cost of the product is 50 rubles. for 1 r.m. Despite the high level of water resistance, ebb tides are highly sensitive to physical impact, especially in winter, when they can crack and split from the slightest impact.

Helpful advice! Due to the fact that plastic ebbs have increased fragility, preference should be given to more durable and expensive products.

The strongest and most durable are ebbs made of metal: steel, copper or aluminum. Installation of products is convenient and simple, and is determined by fixing metal strips to the walls of the building using self-tapping screws and dowels. When choosing this material from a large assortment of types, special attention should be paid to the aesthetic appearance of the product so that it completes the overall design of the building. The price of the product starts from 100 rubles / r.m.

Helpful advice! When installing the basement sills, the strips should be overlapped one after the other by at least 30 mm. To avoid damage to the protective layer of the product, which will lead to the formation of corrosion and destruction of the material, do not cut the strips.

Metal outflows are made of high-quality and frost-resistant cement of the M450 brand with the addition of river sand, granite crushed stone and plasticizers. The solution is poured into silicone molds of various geometric parameters. The result is a flat and smooth product. These ebbs are attached to a special solution.

Ebb tides for the basement base, the price of which is the highest and starts from 200 rubles. per 1 running meter - these are products made of clinker tiles. This material has high strength characteristics, reliably protects the building from negative environmental influences and successfully emphasizes the design of the cladding.

Ebb installation technology

After choosing the ebb, you can proceed with its installation. Here, one should take into account not only the material from which the ebbs are made, but also the structural features of the building. So, for a wooden house, elements that will be fastened with self-tapping screws or other fasteners are suitable. Since wood has low adhesion and is afraid of dampness, the use of adhesives is impractical.

For buildings made of bricks or facing stone, ebbs can be used, which will be fixed using polymer or cement-glue mortars.

Helpful advice! When using concrete or ceramic castings, their installation should be carried out simultaneously with the plinth and wall cladding.

If it is necessary to install drips on a building already finished with facing material, then it is better to use metal or vinyl elements.

Before installing the ebb, it is necessary to seal the joints of the walls with the plinth. All cracks and crevices should be treated with a water-repellent mixture, or sealed with a sealant. Next, you need to use a level to mark the wall. The highest point of the base is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along which the upper part of the low tide will be mounted. The part of the foundation that protrudes is necessary with the help cement screed compare with the horizontal plane. The lower part of the ebb will rest on it.

Important! The ebb plane relative to the wall should be located with a slope of 10-15%.

Installation of metal and plastic sills

Installation of ebbs should be started from the corner, using special corner pieces that can be purchased together with strips of the same width and color. Next, it is necessary to finish all the protruding parts of the building structure: columns, pilasters and others.

Related article:

What materials are used for ebb. Which one is better to choose and in which case. Installation of ebb tides.

In the upper part of the low tide, using a drill, holes are drilled at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Further, the element is applied to the previously marked line on the wall of the house and is attached to it with dowels with self-tapping screws. The lower part of the ebb with the help of dowels-nails is attached to the concrete base of the base with a pitch of 40-50 cm. The joint of the ebb with the wall should be sealed with putty or silicone compound.

Important! During the installation of the ebb tide, it should be borne in mind that it should protrude 2-3 cm beyond the edge of the base, which will provide better protection during precipitation.

After sheathing all corners and protruding elements, you should proceed with the installation of ebbs on straight sections. You need to start from one of the corners. Each next element should be overlapped on the previous one by at least 3 cm. All joints should be treated with a sealant to avoid moisture ingress.

Installation of concrete and clinker drips

Ebb and flow from clinker and concrete should be installed at the stage of cladding the facade of the building, since adjusting them to size during installation is a laborious process.

These types of ebb tide are better combined with such facing materials like brick, clinker tiles, natural or. To fix them, you should use a special adhesive for ceramics and stone, which is intended for outdoor use. It is purchased in the form of a dry mixture, created on a cement or polymer base, and with the help of water it is brought to the state of thick sour cream. The mortar can be made independently using cement and building sand in a ratio of 1: 3 or 1: 4.

The installation of concrete and clinker castings also starts from the corner. To avoid complex handling of concrete slabs, they should be pre-positioned in such a way as to minimize cutting. This can be achieved by using a properly sized seam between the elements. You can adjust the size of clinker products by using a tile cutter or a grinder with a diamond edging wheel.

On the back of each element is applied glue mixture... The low tide should be fixed strictly along the previously outlined line. After waiting some time for the mortar to set, putty or silicone sealant is applied to the joints between the casting elements. After the adhesive has completely set, the walls of the building can be clad.

Basement base waterproofing

The basement of the building is constantly in difficult conditions. It takes a significant load from the aboveground part of the building and comes into contact with the external environment, being under the influence of moisture. To protect an important part of the house from destruction, it is necessary to provide for a number of measures, one of which is the arrangement of waterproofing the basement of the foundation.

Waterproofing can be horizontal or vertical. Usually, a set of works is performed that includes both methods. Horizontal waterproofing is carried out before the construction of walls and is aimed at protecting them from moisture. However, in order to provide a full protective complex of measures, it is also necessary to perform waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth.

Vertical watertight protection aims to prevent the negative impact of surface and ground water on brick or concrete. Such insulation can be external and internal. The best effect is double-sided moisture protection.

Today, in the construction of buildings, pile foundations are mainly used. Here, the basement plays not only a decorative role, but also protects the house from heat loss. Despite the fact that this element is not load-bearing and does not have a direct effect on the durability of the structure, the basement waterproofing is mandatory.

Materials for waterproofing the basement outside

As materials that are used for waterproofing the basement basement, coating, roll and injection compositions with a penetrating effect are widely used.

To protect the foundation from the effects of groundwater, roll waterproofing is often used, which can be fused or pasted over. Weld-on insulation consists of a base in the form of fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass and applied mastic. The glued waterproofing on the surface of the foundation is laid with the help of bitumen mastic, which is first applied to the roll material and to the monolith, then the element is glued, pressed and smoothed.

The main advantage of the base plate roll material is its low cost and high installation speed. However, this type of waterproofing is poorly resistant to mechanical stress and has a short service life. It cannot be used in places of passage or abutment of communications. Before installation, clean the surface from dust and dirt, and dry thoroughly.

Bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer mastics, binding plasters and cement coatings are used as coating waterproofing materials, which are applied to the surface of the foundation with a brush or roller. This type of insulation is used for water pressure up to 2.6 kgf / cm².

Helpful advice! To ensure increased strength of waterproofing after the first layer of mastic, it is recommended to reinforce the surface with fiberglass, and apply subsequent layers over it.

The material has a low cost and can be applied to a surface of any configuration. However, it is not durable, requires preparatory work and the creation of additional protection against mechanical stress.

The use of injection and penetrating compounds is the latest technology for waterproofing structures. The penetrating material is applied to the wet surface of the concrete base. Reacting with water, the composition turns into crystals, which penetrate into the pores of the concrete, making it waterproof. The penetration depth reaches 150-250 mm.

Injection waterproofing is carried out using a liquid solution, which is injected under pressure into the cracks, pores and seams of the structure. This method can be used for waterproofing buildings made of rubble and brick. The use of this waterproofing is a very laborious process that requires cleaning the structure to concrete or brick, and the complexity of the work itself requires the involvement of an experienced craftsman. Moreover, such insulation is the most expensive.

Features of waterproofing a brick base

Ceramic bricks are most often used for the construction of a basement. Its waterproofing device can be carried out by various methods.

Solid red brick can be used for the construction of walls. This building material has already passed the factory processing, where a layer of waterproofing was previously applied to it. Therefore, using this brick for the construction of a building, external waterproofing does not need to be equipped. Despite the fact that the cost of this material is relatively high, these costs are offset by the fact that after laying the brick, no other work is required.

The next method of waterproofing a brick basement is to use a bitumen grease, which is applied in several layers, cold or hot.

Rarely, polyurethane foam spraying is used to insulate the basement. This is due to the fact that in order to perform this type of thermal protection, it is necessary to use special equipment, certain chemical components and attract highly qualified workers. The essence of the method is that foamed polyurethane foam is sprayed onto any surface. Expanding, it penetrates into all voids and reliably adheres to the base, forming a dense coating. This material can be used not only for spraying, but also for filling individual voids and areas.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating the basement basement outside with penoplex

On preparatory stage it is necessary to prepare the foundation surface by removing old insulation, dirt and dust. Next, you should equip a layer of waterproofing to protect the structure from rain, ground and snow water. Any type of waterproofing is suitable for penoplex, with the exception of compositions with organic components.

Work begins with insulation of the underground part of the foundation. For this purpose, PPS boards are attached using a specialized contact glue, which is applied around the perimeter of the product and in the center. The second level should be laid with a spacing of the joints between the plates in relation to the lower level. After installation, all gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

A layer of insulation of the basement with penoplex requires additional protection against mechanical damage. To do this, an alkali-resistant reinforcing mesh is fixed on the plates, which is subsequently plastered with a solution with hydrophobic additives. Also, as protection, you can use wooden tongs, which are attached to the slabs with dowel-nails. The wood must first be subjected to antiseptic, anti-fumigation and hydrophobic treatment.

The final stage is finishing the basement with cladding materials.

Facing the basement of the house: which material is better to choose

Do-it-yourself plinth decoration is carried out with various materials that reliably protect and decorate its surface. This process must be performed before wall cladding in order to be able to hide the ebb under the wall decoration material.

The material for the plinth cladding must have the following performance characteristics:

• have low thermal conductivity to avoid heat loss from the building;
• provide reliable and strong adhesion to the base;
• have a high indicator of strength and wear resistance to mechanical damage;
• have low hygroscopicity and vapor permeability to avoid moisture penetration into the foundation and wall panels.

Today, when the question is raised, how to decorate the basement of a house, the following materials are used that fully meet the above requirements:

• clinker or porcelain tiles;
• natural or artificial stone;
• brick;
• PVC panels or basement siding;
• profiled sheet;
• decorative or mosaic plaster.

For cladding the base / plinth strip foundation any finishing material can be used. But when the question arises of how to close the basement of the house on screw piles, it is worth giving preference to brickwork, siding or profiled sheet.

Before deciding how to finish the basement of the house outside, you need to take into account some of the nuances:

• lining the base with thick material, it is necessary to install an ebb over its protruding part;
• wanting to expand the foundation, it is better to use brickwork;
• when mounting or corrugated board, you must first install a frame, the space of which can be filled with a heat insulator for additional insulation of the foundation;
• frame-facing technology allows you to carry out work at any time of the year.

Using plaster for lining the plinth

When the question is: how to inexpensively decorate the basement of a house, the answer is obvious - to use plaster. However, this option is the least durable, moreover, it has an unaesthetic appearance... Such cladding is easily damaged by any mechanical stress and does not provide adequate protection of the base from external factors. However, this method is very popular due to its low cost. It is also acceptable in the case of erecting a brick base on a strip foundation.

Plastering itself is not the final stage. To protect the layer from moisture and environmental influences, acrylic, alkyd, silicone paint, water-based or oil composition should be applied to it, which in turn decorates the base. A photo of home decoration clearly demonstrates different options using plaster.

Helpful advice! It is not recommended to use enamel paints for painting the base. They are impermeable to air and environmentally unsafe.

Often used decorative plaster which creates the effect of a fur coat and can be colored when using a dye. The use of mosaic plaster allows you to create a multi-colored mosaic on the surface, which occurs due to the presence of small chips in the composition of the original mixture. The presence of resin as a binder gives the composition increased water resistance.

To solve the question of how to make a basement around the house with your own hands with the effect of natural stone, the use of a special silicone stamp will help, with which impressions are made on the plastered surface.

In private houses, the plinth trim with a profiled sheet is widely used. The material has a high level of moisture resistance, is resistant to temperature fluctuations, durable, easy to process and easily mounted on a wooden crate. However, corrugated board is not suitable as a finishing material for wooden buildings due to the fact that it is subject to corrosion under the influence of high humidity, which can lead to wood rotting.

Profiled sheets are often used for finishing the base of a pile-screw foundation, where it must be closed for reliable protection against weathering.

Features of using bricks for finishing the basement

Brick is one of the most expensive finishing materials. However, having high strength and performance characteristics, it allows you to create strong, reliable and durable protection. This material is suitable for any kind of foundation. For brickwork, use slotted, hollow, hyper-pressed or ceramic bricks. Work begins with arranging the foundation for masonry.

If the brick is used for the construction of the basement itself, it does not need additional finishing. However, here you should choose quality material, in order to immediately solve two problems: utilitarian, protecting the walls of the house from external influences, and aesthetic, giving the building a decorative look. In deciding which brick for the basement of the foundation is better, it is necessary to give preference to red fired brick, which is resistant to the effects of an aggressive environment.

In the case of finishing the plinth of the pile screw foundation using brickwork, it is necessary to install the base in the form of a tape of reinforced concrete or a metal profile. Bricklaying takes place with dressing. To connect the elements, a cement-sand mortar is used. The thickness of the seams is 10-12 mm.

The cladding of the basement of a private house is important, so you should carefully consider the choice of material for work. It acts not only as a decorating element, but also is reliable protection the entire building from the effects of atmospheric and mechanical factors.