Gardener I. Krivega tells how to prepare compost with their own hands from fallen leaves.

Everyone knows that the main organs of plants are roots, stems and leaves. And if the authors of agro-pubeds are first given attention, the leaves in this regard are not lucky. They only say that they contain chlorophyll and in the process of photosynthesis provide nutrition with carbohydrates and other nutrients all the plant. Well, as for the already fallen wood sheet, in most publications it is believed that he is already not suitable anywhere and is not needed, since it does not nutrientsAnd he is not a fertilizer.

So, the amateur gardener makes for itself the conclusion that the fallen leaf should be taken out on the landfill that in the city and is being done. And what will happen to the roots of the trees without this protective layer? Are autumn leaves so useless?

On the use of leaf humus were first told flower products. And it is clear why. The soil moisture increases and its structure is improved, mechanical composition. Doesn't it need a flowerfish? If the sheet opead be brought from the forest, and from your site to take it and fold it just in a bunch, it will be stored for a long time without overloading.

Another thing is a forest sheet litter. From this, in fact, the desire to prepare sheet humus and compost began.

In a deciduous or mixed forest, without managing the trees, I crush the layer of half-grown leaves, capturing a little and top of the soil. Usually this layer is already from the sheet humor. This composition has an acidic reaction of the soil solution. I add all the harvested mass into spherical hemispherical heaps and slightly condensed.

The readiness of the sheet humor is determined by appearance And the smell (a purely forest, not a rotten smell). Such humus can be made to the soil as loose and helpful material. Forest litter prepared as a humus, compost, especially good for clay soil.

How to cook this compost component? A bunch of watering zhiza, a solution of fermented herbs, can be made and feces, as recommended. But the last I do not impede sanitary and hygienic considerations. For such short termWhat I am posted for cooking compost - 8 months, helminty, if they are there, you will not have time to disinfect and fall into the soil. Also, it seems to me, it is necessary to pay attention to the preparation of the national compost, where the conditions are different, and the preparation time too.

We are talking about the fallen sheet, but it is introduced into the collective compost and fruit trees and shrubs, only under the condition of healthy leaves that are not damaged by pests and diseases. The affected leaves are subject to combustion or removal from the gardening area away, where they will disinfect naturally naturally.

This applies not only to the leaves from the trees, but also vegetable and other herbal leaves, which are also entered into compost, but in a healthy form, without rot, pests, diseases. In the national compost, the leaves contribute to the best aeration, moisture intensity and act as a ripper. But to accelerate the maturation of the compost, the leaves should be made in chopped form.

Otherwise, the leaves of such a tree, like aspen, stick together with plates between themselves and are stored in this form by years. It is best to make a birch, a lime leaf that do not need to grind. The dry leaf is used not only in compost, but also as a component when constructing warm beds, where in a mixture with straw, hay, herbal residues contributes to heat generation for plant roots, and is also a protective layer from a gaming cold soil layer. For this dry leaves, I collect in dry weather and keeping up to spring in closed containers. In particular, they are stored in me in barrels under a canopy and in the bidones.

The dry leaf is used by me and as a mulching material for the priority circles of fruit trees and shrubs, as well as garden beds. Including as a protective layer, and hence the roots of plants from frost and soil drainage. Soil under the sheet is always moderately wet.

Now the autumn period of the life of plants has now. This year the first yellow and fall birch leaves, limes, rowan and other plants. Next will begin mass leafflow. Dry leaves are applied along with a dry peat, ground straw as a layered layer of up to 30 cm, well absorbing fluid when preparing a platform for the preparation of any compost.

Dry leaves have been checking on the suitability of both insulating, and at the same time aerositing material for winter garlic sitting in late September - the first decade of October. At the ridge with a planted garlic, I smell a layer of 5-10 cm of dry birch leaves and cover with a snack or stems of the raspberry, Topinambura - so that they did not blow up with the wind, in the winter I still have snow at 20-30 cm. There was never a case to winter garlicLailed to the depth of 8-10 cm, I have a samplement. In the spring, with the removal of shelter, it is actively going into growth and gives good large bulbs.

During the years of gloomy, I have developed the following technology. Given the possibility of freezing compost, I am preparing the last in shallow pits.

The pocket depth is 30 cm, the width is 2.5 m. Experience has shown that the process of overloading, fermentation in the pit does not stop in winter. Now I am already in care to prepare compost for the desired period. My term is in the foreground. And microorganisms, bacteria, earth fleets, fungi, worms and other liveliness in the soil will understand themselves, how to do with this organic, vegetable food. This is noticeable on trial, test beds. Plants vegetate more active than normal.

So, by providing a five-meantimeter bedding layer in the pit, I lay down the layers of a salt-powered saltter or carbamide (urea) dry leaves of hardwood of trees (except oak, which are poorly overloaded and containing tanning substances). For each 10-centimeter layer of leaves, I will definitely plug in a layer of garden or turf. For what? In addition to the structural composition of the soil contained in it macro and trace elements, the soil microflora is also added to the sheet layer.

Further it is next Layer of bulk leaves. Here we are already wetting it with a dung alive, or a solution of fermented grass. You can add a solution of fertile garden soil from its site. Next, the next layer of leaves, which we by a moisturizing solution of caustic soda.

The caustic soda itself is not a fertilizer, but caustic contributes to the extraction of chlorophyll from the leaves. Then the next layer - solution is made wood ashThen again layer of leaves moistened with water. Everything is falling asleep with a five-meantimete layer of bevelled grass. The next layer is covered with a chopped straw - for oxygen, hay - for microorganisms, moistened with a 1% heatman solution.

The compost yam is covered with turns 20 × 10 cm, laid tightly to each other over a heap, herbal cover down. Then I install two vertical tubes until the middle of the heaps - for air and moisture a heap, then we take it out and fall asleep them.

I have two pits. One - where components are collected. Other - where the composition shifts. Magnipping makes approximately a month after the laying of the entire material in the first bunch. This must be done for compost loosening, which means that aeration improves, for better stirring of the composition of the heap.

Therefore, I had to abandon the classic forms of composks and go to the cumulative forms. In addition to other advantages, I consider the convenience and commemoration (after all, the ages are no longer the same) in the manner. After that, the compost is ready and can be made to the soil.

The question of how to fertilize plants to accelerate their growth and ripening, worries everyone without exception. We offer you a material in which it is described about how to fertilize the leaves, the huge masses of which are in accessibility for all gardens. The rules for cooking compost from plants, branches and algae are quite simple. But they should be observed in order not to harm the ecology of their plot.

Fertilizers of their leaves

Quite a lot of garden sites in the fall "take" the rain of fallen foliage from nearby or on the site of birches, maples, oaks ... Well, it is a very suitable composting material. In the fallen leaves, there are practically no nutrient elements, but they will rise to us as a rich carbon source (fiber). Properly prepared fertilizers from leaves contribute to improved soil structure and increase its fertility.

The sheet mass has a disadvantage: flat leaves are used to be lifted in a dense mass, which slows down their decay. Such a heap may not come over the summer. The leaves in the compost before bookmarking are recommended to mix with other materials, and it is desirable that they are at least a little alone.

Compost and leaves

The leaves should be laid in compost according to a specific algorithm, taking into account the period of their decomposition. Splestly disintegrate oak leaves. To accelerate the decomposition of foliage apply ordinary means: Do not allow the leaves to be linked, loose them for saturation with air, and also water the nitrogen fertilizer solution.

In the spring, gardeners are trying to free the land from dry foliage and other last year's garbage, so that the beds and the rich circles are faster in the sun. Collected garbage, including small twigs - it good stuff For composting and obtaining such a beautiful fertilizer, like garden compost. He quickly decomposes, because soil mushrooms have already been captured by the invisible fungny and began to hide. It contains a significant proportion of the Earth (10-30%) from the upper layer, that is, rich in microbes, which will also contribute to the accelerated decomposition of the organics.

Leaves like fertilizer

The leaves as fertilizers have a lot of advantages, the only drawback of this material is that it does not pull in it in it, it will not pull in it in its pure form. It is good for adding to the overall compost.

Around each reservoir, there are overgrown with round or aquatic plants that can be accumulated oblique or choose robbles. This is not only a rogo carrier, reed and aces, here and a white dealer, a cube, a saber ... You can make compost from plants that are removed in the process of cleaning the reservoir. The public should not be against, as the reservoirs even need to be cleaned from overgrowing, but water plants - It is essentially weeds of water bodies that seek to turn them into a swamp. In each country its "water plague". A bright such invader belongs to the moss of sphagnum, but it is not composting due to extremely low nutritional nutrition (low ash content) and the ability to "disinfect" useful microfauna. But Ryask, Elode, the rogolnik can be extracted by centners for the production of fertilizer, and it will only be the benefits of ponds and drainage drangies.

How to fertilize algae

Aquatic plants, like grass, in a compost better to re-register with other materials. Before fertilizing algae should withstand the entire period of decay organic substances and enrich the mixture with mineral substances.

These species are not algae, but relate to flowering plants living in water. Even the rod refers to the highest plants. Therefore, you should not doubt whether they have enough nutrition and whether they will fully congeted in the compost. They possess nutrition and all necessary trace elements They are present. There will be kisses, and as: aquatic plants have soft tissues and quickly decompose. True, closed reservoirs are often drives of all household chemicals and other harmful substances that are inevitably absorbed by plants.

How to make compost from plants?

Water plants are very moisturizing and at the same time soft, and in a heap they tend to look into a dense mass. In the cumulative compost it is nothing. It means that they should be put into thin layers, in 5-10 cm, and to releasing more loose material, such as fibrous tops of flowers or pumpkin cultures. It is possible to properly prepare compost from plants, only using for this hermetic containers in which the minimum amount of oxygen falls.

Fertilizer from algae

For someone, the fertilizer from algae is exotic, and for residents of coastal areas - the ability to complement your compost with a weighty share of the organic. Water medium productive.

It is about emissions of algae on the sea coast, where they accumulate in the form of a pile of organic garbage. Such heaps lie pretty far from the tidal edge (as they are "storm") and with long-term departure are partially washed with fresh water of the rain, so do not contain a large amount sea salt. This is confirmed by the fact that in some such heaps you can find rainworms, and they, as you know, do not tolerate high saline concentrations. Such overwhelmed algae are suitable for both direct fertilizer of beds and for composting, at least in regions with a washing water regime, for example, our northern seas (Baltic, White). When enriching this thoroughly "leached" biomass nitrogen fertilizer and ash. If you compost in pure form such common marine brown algae, like fus or laminaria, then for a long time, since they contain up to 30-40% of pectin. Is that in the case when there is no whole organic matter, they can be used for a straight part to the garden from autumn. They cause perplexity of fertilizer from seaweed for gardeners commercially available. It's like buying a manna or a pearl croup for fertilizer: the effect is the same meager, and the price is disproportionate, although in the end - yes, of course, some grazing of the crop will turn out ... However, the sale of many similar "raw" fertilizers cause Perplexity: bran, cocoa husk, soy flour, barda (waste production of ethyl alcohol from sugar) - All this is sold in mixtures under the guise of "environmentally friendly fertilizers from Europe" and, naturally, prime, because "Ecology".

It happens, the package of Dutch expensive fertilizer falls into the hands, the composition on the label: limestone and azotobacter. Another Dutch, and maybe the domestic wiring. Elected money for the development of an ordinary garden plot. This fertilizer is intended for "killed" areas and bare waste (absolutely bare, deep layers of clay without traces of humus), who remained either on former careers, or on garbage dumps, or after construction. In the Netherlands, there is no longer a pristine land, there is only a recultivation, the restoration of fruitless places, on which nothing can grow, so they have all the soils contain the cultures of bacteria and the most primitive organic type of soy flour, seaweed and waste of the sugar industry.

Azotobacter in these European fertilizers. Azotobacter is one of the types of soil bacteria that absorb atmospheric nitrogen: we have more affordable nodule bacteria of leguminous plants. Why are they more accessible to our soil? Because they can live both on neutral soils and on sour, and azotobacter - only on neutral and alkaline, so they are sold with limestone.

But the catch is that such a small number of limestone you will not eliminate the acidity of your soil and the expensive nitrogen-eater will die anyway.

While our relatives, actively active nodule bacteria are always in natural soil On any garden plot, since there is necessarily in the grass there are any representatives of the legume family, starting with clover.

And all the other useful mushrooms, and other microorganisms there are also in the upper felt of the litter. Even when they leveled their plot with a thick layer of sand, the clover is the first thing there: Nature itself knows that it is necessary to first settle in the soil of nitrogen-fixing bacteria in order to forever start the soil enrichment process forever. The absorption of atmospheric nitrogen is an invisible, but very significant process.

It turns out that the Dutch limestone package is ten more expensive than our usual limestone flour only thanks to an unnecessary azoto-acciter! After all, in our neutral soils, he lives ... Conclusion: It causes a protest when a highly specialized expensive product, such as seaweed or azotobacter, impose all gardeners using their ignorance. While on sale you have truly good fertilizers, for real earth necessary and effective, such as potash humats with additive trace elements.

Compost from branches

Do you need to compost all kinds of branches that appear in the garden in fairly large quantities from the annual trimming of fruit trees and shrubs, from the formation of decorative plantings? Let's try to deal with how to make compost from branches, and is it possible to use it for feeding and fertilizer of garden plants.

From the point of view of obtaining from one-piece branches of fertilizer by overpricing - this is a question of doubtful, it will hurt for a long time. However, they can be considered a very useful component of the compost as a drainage: layer of branches are laid in the base of the two-year compost heap and even laid in several layers to the average level to prevent its strong tracking and to breathe better. It is best for this purpose that the rains of raspberries are suitable, they are easily cut and easy to lay them, and after two-year exposure, they can be chopped by a shovel along with all compost and boil into the soil as fertilizer.

The branches of the apple tree, drain and other rocks with solid wood are subjected to preliminary sorting: the thick parts of the branches are practical on the handles to garden tools, on firewood or on supporting pegs for gate plants, but small trimming is to book a drainage for compost. They can also be boiled with a compost. The largest branches can also be used as drainage, they are then easy to remove from the finished loose fruit.

Fertilizer from branches

Interpretation of branches in a garden grinder together with another solid vegetable material (Stems of sunflower and perennial flowers, bark, bumps.) Increasingly practiced on garden sites, Schroedrads are included in the horticultural use along with lawn mile. Undoubtedly, the fertilizer from the branches is equal to layers, and it can be added to the composts for loosenness, it is impregnated with nitrogen mortar. "Interpretation" later and in the soil will serve for many years as the structures of the educator and, in the end, he comes, giving the earth to the Gumus Tolik.

As a mulch of grinding branches, it is suitable if you do not forget about the fertilizers.

Each experienced agriculture and ordinary gardener are trying to get as much harvest as possible, while spending the minimum amount of funds. That is why the feeding of organic origin is so widely used in agrotechnology. In this article, we will tell how to apply fallen leaves like fertilizer.

Useful properties of leaves

Each fall occurs such a problem as the disposal of foliage foliage. However, few people know that OPEJ is an excellent organic fertilizer. There are no nutrient components in the composition of fallen leaves, but a large amount of fiber and some microelements (phosphorus, nitrogen, magnesium, sulfur, calcium, potassium and iron) are contained.

For proper use Foliage can be improved the structure of the soil, as well as increase the fertility of the Earth in the garden and garden. Fertilizer from fallen leaves can break the ground, as well as saturate with moisture and oxygen. In addition, rainworms are always found in the humus, resulting from foliage. And these are the most desirable guests in the garden and garden.

For the preparation of fertilizer, you can use the leaves of any plants - from the forest, birch, nuts, oak, topoly, tops, etc., the leaves from walnut very well have proven very well, but they do not grow in every region of Russia. It is not recommended to take leaves from garden shrubs and fruit trees, since in this case the likelihood of infection with various vegetable diseases and damage to malicious insects is great. However, they can be adapted to the matter.

Fallen leaves like fertilizer

Sowing leaves like fertilizers can be used different ways. Read more about this below.

Mulch

This is the easiest way. Usually a mulch of leaves is used for ground feeding of fruit trees and berry bushes. The whole procedure is happening:

1. Around the tree is the earth in a radius of 1 meter.
2. After that, about 20 cm of the Earth is removed. Removing the soil must be extremely careful not to damage root system trees.
3. Add 0.5 kg of chicken litter to the resulting pit, and then float with leaves.
4. Pour a small amount of water.
5. In this form, the blunting tree should be ahead of 3 days, after which the pit need to fall asleep the earth.

Thus, apple tree, pear, cherry, apricot, plum, nut, gooseberry, raspberries, etc. are well ...

Compost

Another way to use leaves like fertilizer is compost. It is very easy to cook it, you need to stick only to some rules. Cooking recipe:

1. In the fall, dig a hole with a size of 1 m per 1 m. The depth should not be more than 1.5 m.
2. Collect the leaves and put in the earthen hole.
3. Carefully confuse and fill the whole bunch of water, after again, I will confuse.
4. Pull with a soil with a thickness of 20-30 cm.
5. To speed up the decay of the leaves, you can prepare a solution from nitrogen fertilizer and pour them to a pit.

Spring at the site of this pit is fashionable to plant tomatoes, peppers, cabbage and other vegetables. But in the fall, after harvesting, the pit needs to be opened and to scatter the resulting compost from the recovered leaves. If a little compost left in the earthenware, then it can be filled with land and leave the next year.

When cooking compost, consider that the leaves are better to take from the forest and away from roads. Near the large trails and soil cities are harmful, therefore, harmful components may also be contained.

Ash

Infected leaves of shrubs and fruit trees recommend immediately throw out. However, they can also be used as fertilizer. If there are a lot of infected leaves, collect them in a bunch and burn. After collecting ash - it is great for extra -orn subordinate Plants.

The ash is completely safe and nutritious. It saves:

• 15-20% of potassium;
• 6-10% calcium;
• 5% phosphorus;
• 1-3% iron, magnesium, zinc.

Nature is intended so that any of her gifts can be used for the good. What was considered garbage was already excellent and first-class feeding for garden and gardening crops. Fallen leaves - high-quality organic fertilizer, which has a completely natural origin. Dead Odad well enriches the soil, while constantly breaking it. Plus, thanks to the compost, it is possible to take echoes and insectivore birds to the site, which can save from annoying pests (for example, from a bear).

How do you do with the fallen foliage from the garden? Export to a landfill or burn? I propose to do otherwise - to prepare a wonderful fading, which will help increase the fertility of the soil on the plot, achieve generous harvest and save on buying.

Advantages and disadvantages of sheet compost

It is hardly worth talking about the outstanding advantages prepared on the basis of both birds, there are no equal to such organic fertilizers. But the luxury of their use without any financial investments can afford only rural residents who are kept in the farm livestock and bird.

At the "urban" dachnikov, buying a manure and litter today punches a substantial breech in his pocket. Sheet compost is inferior to such fertilizers by nutritional value, but cultural plants Perfectly responds to him and never give up from such yummy. So why spend money on the purchase of manure, if there is free material at hand?

Ridden sheet compost quickly saturates the soil with humic compounds and microelements and effectively restores soil fertility. When embelling into the ground, it perfectly improves its structure: the sandy soil adds moisture intensity, and clay - air permeability.

Not to the end of the decomposed sheet mass (young compost) is an excellent product for mulching vegetable and flower crops. Flowers and vegetables do not suffer from characteristic of both berries. Therefore, in this case, for the preparation of compost, it is possible to use foliage even from under patients with garden plantings.

The only lack of a sheet compost is an acidic reaction. When introduced into the soil, it will reduce its pH level, so it will require the use of deoxidizers (dolomite flour, lime, chalk, ash, etc.).

Circuit of sheet compost on the plot

Depending on the cooking technology and tree breeds, from which foliage was taken, the total aging of the sheet compost will leave 1.5-2 years. If you do not help the compost, it is raised longer this process.

In order for such a valuable fertilizer to be at hand, every season, I suggest to build 3 compositans on the site at once. In the first day, every autumn will lay the next batch of fresh fad. In the second part of this time, the aging of last year's mixture of leaves and land will be held. And the third tray by this moment will provide you with a fully overwhelmed compost.

You can put the contents of the third partition you in the autumn to fertilize the beds, or postpone the procedure until spring. Do not tighten with the use of ridden compost, because the third tray by the next fly you need to free. It is needed to shift in it a constructive sheet mass from the first "barn". By shifting the contents of the first partner to empty, you can move the contents of the second tray in the first.

Such a "repayment" of compost will significantly speed up its aging. Manifolding the contents of the compositary, you are saturated with oxygen, which is necessary for useful microorganisms and for normal life, and without their help to prepare fertilizer. Talk must be carried out at least 2-3 times per season. Work is laborious, but extremely important.

Lazy option is the manufacture of only 1 partitions. Fill it with leaves and earth, and next season, periodically shock the contents - lay out to the ground and return it back. Next autumn Young compost inspired perennial plants or beds S. promotional crops. Misling of such semi-prepared fertilizer will continue in the new season already "on the spot." By the same fall, you can fill the released container with a new portion of foliage.

We draw up the composette

If you do not regret the funds for your favorite cottage, you can go the easiest way and buy ready-made compospets. Such devices will get rid of you from unnecessary trouble, and there will be many years to help get valuable sheet compost.

In our market, a very large selection of various devices for this purpose in different price categories. You can choose something for yourself by going by.

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Less wealthy daches fit for this purpose old barrels, tanks, cast iron baths And even dense trash bakes with a volume of 200 l and more. The main rule when using such undergraded means - holes in their walls, which will provide air flow to the constructive humidity. The contents of these containers will also need to shock several times during the season: to shift from one to another or pour out to the ground, ancillable film, and then return back again.

The most time-consuming option is the construction of a stationary compossess with 3 compartments from boards, slate, tin and any other healthy materials. In the walls of such a device, be sure to leave the gaps or make them of a solid grid. If you build a high compossess, make one side of it collapsible, to easily get to the content.

Technology Preparation of Sheet Compost

After the leaf fall, collect fallen foliage and lay it into the tray, speaking the layers of the earth with a thickness of 5-10 cm. If the foliage and soil are dry, be sure to span with water. Owners can add to the contents of beveled grass - it will speed up the aging humoring. There is also permissible to fold the soft-scale BOTS of vegetables and without seeds, as well as kitchen waste of plant origin.

Fine, if you have fresh manure or bird litter. Understatell, add these nitrogenous products to a total weight or span the contents with a solution based on them. An alternative variant is a solution of purchased (urea, ammonium nitrate, etc.), prepared at the rate of 20-30 g per 10 liters of water.

An excellent effect on the further decomposition of the organics will cause a solution of the EM-preparation. Divide the concentrate in water according to the instructions, and, laying out the organic stuffing, spill it useful solution.

In order for you in the future, you did not have to deoxine the soil on the beds, which you support the leaf compost, grade the acidic reaction at once. To do this, at the stage of laying, the organicists will scatter her wood layers, dolomite flour, haired lime or chalk.

Throughout the next season, in addition to the regular shocking of the constructing compost, you will be required to periodically moisten it with water. We will not know the solution of cowboat, urea or an uh-preparation, which you moisten the contents a couple of times per season. Be sure to take care of the lid on the partner if you made it yourself. It will be required to protect the organic mass from drying into the summer heat and from leaching during the period of protracted rains.

You can proceed easier - to cover the compost mass with a dense film and make it holes in it for air access. And do not forget to gain a handful of rainworms on the garden and run them into a bunch. After a short time, they will spread in a nutritious period in a huge amount and accelerate the aging compost.

How to determine that sheet compost ripe

Fully overwhelmed sheet compost is a loose homogeneous mass. In it, you should not detect the ease of leaves or non-dried remnants of other waste, which laid along with the opeg. In a mature compost, there will be no rainwrites: they will leave the partition when the feed end. Distinctive feature Mature compost sheet - pleasant "forest" flavor.

Autumn fallen leaves people often collect robbles and burn. Well, if outside the site, because on the spot of the fire for several years it can grow anything. Such an action is unjustified, because by this, first, worsen the ecology, secondly, deprive yourself (that is, your garden-garden) useful deciduous fertilizer.

Many gardeners do not know for sure whether the leaves can be used as a fertilizer, considering that the leaves have already performed their function. In fact, fond of foliage, even from garden trees, at least from any others, is a powerful feeding, because during the season the leaves have accumulated a huge amount of nutrients and can give them to you. You just need to be able to properly organize this process.

Using fallen leaves like fertilizers

The benefits of fallen leaves are very large. They contain such useful elements Like magnesium, potassium, iron, calcium, nitrogen, phosphorus and sulfur. All of them are necessary for good growth and development of plants.

Options for using dry leaves like fertilizer there are several. You can beat your garden trees On the crown radius, remove the top layer (approximately 20 cm), put the leaves in the resulting pit from the same or any other tree, add a couple of glasses, pour and re-lay the top layer of the soil.

This way you can fertilize apple, pears, plums, apricots, walnuts and many others fruit trees. In addition to the function of the feeding, such a layer of leaves also carries a warming effect, not giving the soil and rooting the tree to move during winter cold.

Another option of using fallen leaves like fertilizer is to make compost. To do this, you need either a compost pit, or deep container. It needs to be laid and good to the leaves and leave for 2 years. Compost readiness can be determined by the characteristic forest smell of overwhelming foliage. Making humus in the soil, you improve its structure, provide plants with useful substances.

Of course, the leaves can be used exclusively with healthy trees. All damaged diseases and pests immediately need to be removed from the garden plot.