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How and when to plant strawberries: step-by-step instructions. Ways to landing garden strawberries and care

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Garden strawberries are one of the most delicious, gentle and beloved gardeners of berries.

In the people, it is called strawberry, although in official science it is forest small fragrant berries that wear such a name.

If you are going to make this valuable and popular culture on your site, today we invite you to get acquainted with the common ways to plant garden strawberries and the peculiarities of her care.

Earlier, we already met with, decided on the choice and prepared seedlings, and now we will proceed to landing strawberries.

Also in this article, let's talk about how it is necessary to care for her to get a good harvest.

And although our beauty does not need a capricious and large labor exploits from us, but still, like all the plants, the strawberry loves when they treat it with love and provide due attention.

Planting schemes

As we already know, it is possible to plant strawberries and in the spring when the soil warms up, and at the end of the summer - the beginning of autumn.

And the seedlings acquired in the pots can be planted in general the whole season.

There are several basic ways to plant garden strawberries, namely: single-line or ordinary, two-line or tape, square-nest or chess.

Such landing methods are used mainly on smooth and dry places.

If you have a humid plot and there is a possibility of stagnation of water in rainy weather, then it is better to grow a garden strawberry at high beds (20-30 cm).

I prefer to grow it on the hills, as I think it is more convenient.

Firstly: from the soil is faster than the excess moisture, secondly, the strawberry bushes are much better illuminated by the Sun, thirdly - to care for the plantation is much easier.

And now a little more about every way of planting garden strawberries who have their own flaws and advantages.

Landing with separate bushes. Saplings are placed at a distance of 45-60 cm one by one, and regular removal of the mustache produce regular removal.

This allows plants to develop with high intensity and good fruiting.

The disadvantage of the method is its complexity - the mandatory carrying out of frequent weeding and loosening, mulching and removal of the mustache.

However, rich food for each bush guarantees a rich harvest with large berries.

Additional advantages - Saving planting material and good ventilability, due to which the incidence is reduced.

Landing strawberries with rows (single-line). Kostics are planted at a distance of 15 cm, placing them with rows with a lumen in the aisle 40 cm.

This is done for free access to landings. The complexity is the same as when planting strawberries with separate bushes: it is necessary to carry out loop, weeding, the removal of the mustache.

Advantages - Increased yields due to the growth of bushes in the ranks and the possibility of obtaining high yields for 5-6 years, while not updating the landing.

Two Strong (Tape) Landing. Is used for large squares Landings in order to reduce labor costs for the processing of the site.

The planting is placed in two lines at a distance of 30 cm, placing seedlings after 15-20 cm and leaving the passage of 60-70 cm wide in the arses.

Thus provide access to each plant and reduce the size of the area necessary for weeding and loosening.

Chess landing. It is used when booking the ridge of a variety of garden strawberries with elevated performance indicators.

In this case, the seedlings have rows at a distance of 50 by 50 cm, while shifting one row relative to another by 25 cm.

It provides good ventilability during the expansion of the bushes and prevents morbidity.

Landing the nests. In the center there is a well-developed seedlove, and around, 6-8 cm sit down at a distance of 6 more smaller.

Between the nests, 25-30 cm are left, and they are placed by rows with aisle 35-40 cm wide.

The main drawback of this method of planting strawberries is the flow of a large amount of planting material.

However, during the growth of bushes, labor costs are reduced, and fruiting becomes significantly higher than with traditional schemes.

Carpet planting strawberries. The most simple and easy to care for the cultivation method.

In this case, all mustache leave for rooting. Such landings almost do not need to be spinning - plant saplings simply do not allow anything to grow.

They do not require enhanced irrigation - under a solid carpet of the leaf of the soil dries slowly.

This method is the best output for rarely visited sites, since it does not require much care.

The only drawback - over time, the culture is degenerated, and the berries become small.

Important! Choosing a landing scheme, calculate your capabilities, and also consider the goals that you have set yourself. If you want to grow a garden strawberry with a commercial purpose, do not be lazy to study all the nuances of landing and care as closely.

Ways to plant garden strawberries

Sprinkle bushes on the usual bed - the most traditional wayproviding average yield indicators with medium-term climatic conditions.

Today, Russian daches and farmers are actively using technological innovations, allowing to obtain higher and high-quality crops while reducing labor costs.

Landing strawberries on agricultural. For landings, high ridges are formed, the width of which depends on the width of the nonwoven material. It is usually 70-80 cm.

The ridge is covered with agrofluoride, pressed around the edge by heavy girlfriends (boards, slate, bricks, ground).

Normal accommodation - in two rows. The distance in the aisle - 50 cm, between the seedlings - 20 cm.

At the outlined points make minimally small round holes (for the film, so as not to rush) or cruciform.

Hand digging a hole and put a seedling into it. If the roots are long, then take a long wide knife, which is done by the hole and then press the earth.

Or cut roots to the desired length (up to 10 cm). If moles are found on the plot, then pre-get rid of pests, it will be problematic to do it after the construction of the garden.

Landing strawberries on the straw mattress. At the end of the summer, the dried pea tops are cheered on the garden and shed nitrogen fertilizers that provide fast overheating.

After 3 weeks, well-developed seedlings are planted with a gap of 30-40 cm into several rows, spill well and mulched.

The main rule during placement is good access to each plant;

Planting in film tunnels. This method is good for the northern regions or areas with a harsh continental climate.

Film shelter protects young gentle seedlings from weather whims.

However, with a significant warming, the film must be removed or to build the windows, since the excess temperature and humidity will contribute to the development of diseases.

Vertical landing. With a shortage of space in the country area, the cultivation of garden strawberries in vertical beds is possible.

For the construction of such a bed, any reservoir material is required: plastic bags, wooden or plastic barrels, containers, car tires or discs.

It's easy to build a ridge by making the holes for seedlings in the undergraduate material and filling the containers or barrels of the earth.

To ensure sufficient watering and feeding along the entire length, the pipe with a small holes done at the desired level inserted with small holes, through which moisture comes into the center of the structure.

Such landings are especially vulnerable in the cold period, so they are carefully wrapped in the winter.

Important! When landing in any way, placing the heart of each seedling above the soil level. At the same time, the root neck must be completely covered with soil. Ideally, the growth point of each plant should be slightly higher than the level of the soil and not be satisted by the earth, otherwise the plant will perish.

How to arrange landing

To achieve the highest productivity (of course, with free space) 4 ridges with constantly updated plants should be started:

  1. To the first section in the fall embarrassed the bushes of garden strawberries. IN next year You will receive high-quality seedlings from this ridge, which and plant the second plot;
  2. After a year from the second plot, the seedlings of strawberries are cleared of 3 sites, and on the first you get a full yield;
  3. After 2 years, you will have two perfectly fruiting beds, one ridge with a young strawberry, and you will plant the seedlings on the last plot;
  4. After 3 years, 1 plot is drunk - after all, he has already replicated for 3 years, and a young seedlings are planted with 4 plots.

However, only transplants cannot provide high yields. It is necessary to ensure your favorite optimal conditions for good fruiting.

Landing young seedlings

Seedlings of garden strawberries are planted in spring (20. 04 - 10. 05) or in the fall (16. 08 - 31. 08):

  • In front of the landing, the seedlings in a cool room are reduced at least 5 days;
  • The best time for landing is the second half of the day;
  • Extra leaves are removed, especially old and dried, leaving only two inner green leaves. This is a prerequisite for good survival. Otherwise the root system may not cope, and the plant will die;
  • The roots are fooled into a chatter from equal parts of clay and peat;
  • Place a seedling in the well, having previously placed them along the entire length. Perfect option - Make a holmik and "put" a bush on him, placing the roots at the edges. At the same time, do not forget about the main rule when planting garden strawberries - do not fall asleep the hearts of the earth. It must be slightly higher than the level of the soil, and at the same time the root neck is completely in the ground;
  • After placing a seedling in the hole, the soil around crimp and align, while it is necessary to follow the roots to be left in the emptiness, and had complete contact with the soil;
  • After landing, watering is produced (in dry weather - abundant).

Important! If you bought strawberry seedlings in cups, then the roots will be reversed. They should be strained, removed rotten, and if necessary, to shorten. Proper landing will increase the chances of good adherence to bushes.

Features of care

Young strawberry seedlings need the first year in high attention, especially on initial stagewhen they still did not fit:

  • With hot weather in the first few days, seedlings are shaded, and watering is produced as needed. If the Spring Lands threaten late frosts, the plantation is protected by underfloor materials;
  • When landing, the well sheds well and necessarily murdered, it allows you to lay the ridge in any weather - the mulch retains moisture;
  • The feeders are carried out with adult landings, but the norms are doubled - the plant is still small;
  • On the spring landings, the flowers and mustache are definitely removed, it will give an additional stimulus for the growth and development of cooks.

Important! The mooring of the soil can lead to the appearance of diseases, reinforcing the roots. Therefore, with special thoroughness, follow the humidity. Optimal in this regard is drip irrigation - Soil never dries and does not overlook.

Caring for adult landings

Garden strawberries - an unpretentious plant, immediately after melting of snow you can see green leaves.

In the spring, when the soil is warmed, it is cleaned by cleaning landings from dead leaves, they are seeding new seedlings on the site of extincting bushes, plant plants from pests.

As soon as the weather allows, gardening work on transplantation and care is starting.

Weeding, loosening, mulching

When planting garden strawberries in the usual way, without the use of agrovolock, it is necessary to prepare for regular quotations and loosenings throughout the season - at least 2 weeks.

Especially expensive in this plan of ridges with separately planted bushes. Therefore, in large agroworks, the landing scheme is used in rows, which allows processing plantations using mechanized means.

For the entire season, there are 5-6 weeding and 7-8 loosenings. At the same time, special attention is paid to the accuracy of any actions near the roots - after all, they run close enough to the surface and easily shake.

If this happened, you should sprinkle them with a layer of soil and trust.

Especially often it happens after wintering when the bushes are chopped over the surface due to frost. In this case, they are slightly plunged.

Some professionals are advised to remove a 3-cm layer of the soil at the first spring weeding, the pests larvae in it.

Soil in this case is hears faster, and chipsticks of garden strawberries are actively rolling into growth.

If your climatic conditions allow, it is quite possible to take advantage of this recommendation.

After weeding, the mulching is performed by reservoir materials:

  • Sawdust;
  • Pine cheese;
  • Riveted straw;
  • Old leaves;
  • Reed.

The first mulching of strawberries are made after spring weeding, shelter the soil around the bush layer 7-8 cm.

During the season, if necessary, the mulch is being added, and the mapping weeds are smeared.

Important! The layer of mulching materials still holds moisture and protects berries from pollution. And if you make a mulch of pine needles, add a disinfecting effect that prevents the development of diseases and even disconnecting pests.

Watering garden strawberries

One of the main points of proper care for the garden strawberries is timely and sufficient watering.

If we talk about a garden strawberry, it is especially demanding about soil moisture during flowering and fruiting.

With sufficiently light loose soils, the watering is carried out more often, and if there are clay in the composition - less often.

Basic requirements for watering:

  • Before the beginning of flowering, it is allowed to watering sprinkling, after - only under the root. If you landing are placed on agrovolok, it is watering through a hose with holes, in advance laid by the construction of the ridge;
  • The frequency of watering is 1 time in about 10-12 days, however, with a strong heat, the frequency is increased several times;
  • Watering produce warm water, if it is impossible - shedding the furrows between the rows;
  • Per 1 m square. Consisted approximately 10-12 liters, the norm increases or decrease depending on the degree of soil moisture. This is especially important during the period of fruiting - the land must be raw to a depth of 20-25 cm;
  • Watering is produced in the morning, and better - in the evening, to give the plant to get the maximum necessary moisture.

If you have small landings, it is advisable for a period of flowering and fruiting during rainy weather to stream them with a film - this will help protect the garden strawberries from the development of diseases.

Important! Before harvesting, abundant watering stops - a berry is particularly sweet and not water. To landing not dried with hot weather, watering is carried out after each collection of ripe berries.

Cutting

Food, along with irrigation, plays an important role in the formation of the future harvest of garden strawberries.

If you take care of the soil fertility in advance, then in the first year, in the absence of berries, you can do the minimum introduction of inorganic fertilizers.

However, already starting from the first season of fruiting, it is necessary to regularly feed your favorite to get the appropriate return:

  • First subordinate It is held after the appearance of young leaves, at the same time remove last year's leaves. 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. Liquid sodium humate or urea. Flow per 1 bush - 0.5 liters. Or breed a korologist (1: 10) or chicken manure (1: 50) and poured as the same amount of solution. To enhance growth and fruiting spend and extra-corner subordinate: dissolve in the water bucket of 2 g permanganate potassium, boric acid and molybdenum-acid ammonium;
  • Second subcord It is carried out immediately before flowing. 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. "Agrikola Aqua" and "Effectton I" is added potassium sulfate (1 tsp. L.) And poured to each plant of 0.5 liters of solution. At the same time, one more extraordinary feeder is carried out;
  • Third subordinate It is performed after harvest (until August 10), its goal is to ensure the full development of color-kidney for the next year. 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. "Effecton" and nitroposki, a glass of wood ash add a glass. On each bush consumes 1 liter of solution.

Replace all the necessary components can special comprehensive fertilizer, which is created only for garden strawberries and provides an increase in yield by 30%.

Important! When carrying out feeding, try not to fall on the leaves, as well as take into account the amount of moisture in the solution during irrigation. After all, the convergence is one of the main factors contributing to disease lesions.

Removal of musty

Cutting the mustache allows the chip of garden strawberries to preserve the greatest amount of energy for high yields.

However, such a simple action requires also compliance with certain points:

  • Cut twice a year - in spring before flowering and after fruiting;
  • To remove the mustache, be sure to use the garden equipment: scissors, knife, secateur. The breaking of the mustache can lead to damage to the plant and even its pulling out of the soil - the mustache is quite strong;
  • Do not delete the mustache for the root, leave the cuttings to 10 cm - later the plant itself will get rid of the unnecessary stem;
  • Conduct trimming early in the morning or in the evening, and then make treatment from pests.

Important! To obtain high-quality planting material of garden strawberries during the period of fruiting, mark the most productive bushes. You will delete the mustache on them when the time bookmarks of the new ridge comes in autumn. For seedlings, take only the first mustache from the mother plant - it is they who have the highest qualities of productivity. As such selection, some gardeners increase the yield of already good varieties and even bring new ones.

Of all the available landing options for garden strawberries, choose the most suitable for achieving your goals - whether it will grow for profit or to provide a vitamin and delicious product of your family. In any case, the success of you!

For information, look at the video about another way to plant garden strawberries. Maybe someone from you would prefer such a landing.

See you soon, dear readers!

Strawberry grows in one place for several years in a row. The soil preparation requires special attention, because the yield of berries depends on the preliminary proper training.

First you need to choose a plot. It should be a smooth area, with good sunlight. After all, due to the lack of sufficient solar lighting, there will be a bad strawberry harvest. And one more disadvantage, in the shade it often happens an excess of moisture, various fungal diseases develop on the leaves and roots.

The type of soil on the plot may be any. However, strawberry bushes will not grow where sandy soil or clay. There are reasons for it. Sand soils are less saturated with useful substances, and the roots of the plants dry faster and overheat. The clay soil is dense, poorly passes the air, which saturates the roots with oxygen and suffers from the excess of moisture. Plants cease to grow. To improve the quality of the Earth, it is necessary to make a fertilizer - humus, which allow to make the soil loose.

You should pay your attention to the acidity of the soil. If the soils are sour, then they need to be contrary to: make an organic fertilizer, and for the Earth, with a large number of alkalis, fertilizer is made with the content of minerals.

When choosing a place for garden strawberries, it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater, whether water can be seized. To soften this factor, you need to do drainage, but so that the earth is and not dry, and not wet.

It should also be remembered that strawberries cannot be planted twice in the same place. Do not recommend it to transplant where tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage grew earlier. She will be comfortable to feel herself after Luke, garlic, carrots, pumpkins, peas.

So, the next step is the preparation of land for seedlings. It is necessary to snatch all the bunoes and other weeds that grow on your plantation. Especially removing needed, reed, drinking (they take all useful substances from the ground and in plants). For this, the entire plot is discharged several times, and manually remove all weeds with roots. You can also place under the future strawberry, treat herbicide, for example, roundup, tornado. Two weeks, the grass should die.

Further prepare the soil: we introduce organic fertilizer (gypsum, lime). The site will jump and as far as possible is aligned. After all, loose soil contributes to the rapid adaptation of seedlings to a new place, and their speedy growth.

An important stage is the planning to planting strawberries. For example, single rows or double, ribbons.

In order for a row with strawberry to be smooth, pegs are clogged at the two ends and rope stretches.

Now you can start planting strawberry seedlings.

Rules landing strawberries

What are there ways of landing?

Strawberry seedlings are planted in the ground in several ways. Gardeners are used single row and two-row.

The principle of planting is a single-row way lies in the fact that the distance between the ribbons is equal to 60-70 cm, and the seedlings are planted in a row from each other at about 15-20 cm. Single-line planting is used when the bushes are planted in the ground in spring or autumn. After all, in the first year, the garden strawberries practically does not be fruitful, but produces a mustache that fill the free space in the ranks.

A two-time landing is more efficient, it is great for the summer, since on one piece of the earth, the seedlings can be planted as possible, and there are berries in almost that year when they are planted. The distance between the ribbons is 70 cm, between the lines of 30 cm, and the seedlings are planted 15-20 cm from each other.

Another way that is used is to plant seedlings in beds. It is well suited for those sites where water is worth. The location of the beds - from the south to the north, the two rows of seedlings on the edges are planted, and in the middle of the tracks (approximately width is 30 cm) remain empty.

Many gardeners use a compacted landing of strawberry bushes. This is done in the spring to remove the whole seedlings, which in the first year did not bloom. After sick bushes are escaped, there will be a place for the normal growth of the rest of the plants.

The main thing to catch in time

Strict docks on planting strawberries does not exist. It can be placed in spring and autumn, and in the summer. But you need to take into account the nuances of this or that time of the year.

Spring. At this time of the year, seedlings are recommended to plant as soon as possible, with the beginning of work in the field, in the first days of April. The main thing is not to miss this moment. If the bushes of strawberries put a listed time, in May, then the pace of their development will be slow. The time of the landing is impossible. In the spring, seedlings are immediately planted in an open land.

Summer. With the right approach to planting strawberries, it will be possible to collect berries in a year. It is better to put it after the rain or in cloudy weather, so it will be easier for her. Additional watering is recommended, then it is necessary to carry out the soil mulch, i.e. It is to explode, in order to avoid the appearance of the crust on the surface.

Fall It is the most positive age of the year for planting seedlings. It is best to do this from August 20 to September 15, but conditional terms, it all depends on the climate of the region in which the landing is planned. But it is advisable to have time before the first frost.

Regardless of the season, before planting strawberries, it is necessary to prepare seedlings: process root system from different insects (Use the solution copper Kaper). Immediately, before planting bushes, roots straighten. They sit in a vertical position, long - deliberately trimmed.

What is the method of cultivation to choose?


Usually, strawberries are grown in two ways: in greenhouses and on open soil . Both ways have their advantages and disadvantages.

Before planting seedlings in open land, to begin with, it must be prepared. The soil is loosened and tamped to access oxygen. Then I need watering, and only after, the landing occurs.

Berries of strawberries planted in greenhouses, under the film, spit earlier than those growing on Earth. This method is suitable for early. Tunnels from the film are collected in April. They need to be tired, loosen the soil, water warm water. Be sure to need a thermometer to control the temperature. At temperatures above 25 ° C, the film is removed on the day. In autumn, strawberries are covered with straw or leaves from trees. Fertilizer contributes: peat or compost.

In addition, strawberries still grow in vertical rows. This method resembles steps, tiers. It is great for small sites. Special containers resembling a pyramid put 10 cm apart from each other. To fill them, a peat mixture is used, humid, turf. During freezes, the container is removed and is covered with agricultural, leaves, peat. With frosts, strawberries are also covered with snow.

When growing strawberries under the agricultural, you can collect a crop before a few weeks. The agrofibration holds the temperature, protects against wind and frost.

Also, strawberries are also grown in polyethylene bags. A pre-prepared land is poured into the bag, and seedlings are planted into the holes. Then they are tied up to the ceiling.

Care for strawberries right

Watering strawberries

Watering strawberries directly depends on the fact that the weather dictates us. The frequency of watering is determined by the soil dryness. Optimal time Watering will be early morning. Leaves in the evening become dry. There are no flowerfish yet, the plants are watered with watering. Watering reminds a small rain, dust is washed off from the leaves.

In the heat, strawberries are recommended to water once every seven days, water is poured in an amount of from 10 to 25 liters per square. m. With the appearance of fruits, the frequency of watering is reduced. Water for watering is used warm, the temperature is approximately 20 degrees. Watering cold water It may affect the growth of seedlings.

When the first colors appear, water is poured on the ground, avoiding hitting the bushes. Water on berries is not pouring, as they can start rot.

We destroy weeds

The fight against weeds still need to start before the start of the seedlings. But there is such a bouran who continues to score plants, taking moisture, useful substances. It is necessary to constantly enhance both throughout the entire period of crop maturation and after it. It is necessary to make it times 8. The depth of bursting is about 10 cm. The root system of weeds is better to get from the soil and throw out.

Herbicides are used to get rid of grass and weeds use herbicides to get rid of herbs and weeds. Recommend to spray them 14 days before the expected landing.

Another way to struggle, there is a landing of buckwheat, it makes the land more fertile and helps to get rid of weeds. Then they sow something from wintering, and only the next year planted strawberries.

We fight pests

Strawberry pests are not much, but it requires immediate treatment. Plants are processed before the appearance of colors or after harvesting berries.

The main pests include:

  1. Tick \u200b\u200btransparent. I am striking the leaves, they become yellow, and the berries themselves are small. Treat carbofos after harvest.
  2. Nematodes. Live in the leaves, they completely affect the plant: the leaves become dark color, strawberry does not grow. Infected bushes are burned.
  3. To pests can be attributed to the beetle of strawberry, weevil, whiteflies. Get rid of them with the help of carboofos, actara.
  4. Snails and slugs. Have a detrimental effect on berries.
  5. So that there were no ants, the soil sprinkle soda.

The fight against pests should be started in autumn, with processing and disinfection of the soil. An excellent way is the mulching of the earth film, getting rid of all weeds. You need to delete dry leaves in a timely manner, follow the humidity of the soil.

Strawberry garden (large) is the most common berry culture grown by amateur gardeners. In the people it is called strawberry. In this article, so as not to make confusion, it is also called strawberries and it will be about planting strawberries in an open ground.

Ripe strawberries.

Biological features of culture

Strawberry - evergreen plant with a shortened rhizome and a small stem that woods some time after landing. It forms three types of shoots: horns, mustache and flowers.

  • Horns or outlets are formed from vegetative kidneys in the side of the stem. The top kidney horn is "heart" - red. What she is larger, the greater the crop will give a plant in the first year. As the bush rises, the horns are formed above the ground.
  • Mustache - Long vacation, with which young plants can be separated from the main bush. The most suitable for obtaining the planting material mustache 1 and 2 orders.
  • Flowerines are not suitable for planting material.

Strawberry bush scheme.

A feature of strawberries is its constant update.

Strawberry requirements for climatic factors

The berry is quite demanding to environmental conditions.

  • Temperature. Strawberry is winter-hardy enough, it is withstanding without frozen a decrease in temperature to -8-12 ° C. Under the snow is capable of carrying frost to -35 ° C. Spring frosts can damage buds and flowers, but because culture blooms extremely unevenly, the entire harvest is never lost. In addition, buds are more resistant to freezing (-4-5 ° C) than the extended flowers that hold down the temperature drop to -2 ° C.
  • Shine. Culture of light-cup, but is able to carry a little shading. It can be grown in aisle young gardenHowever, under the crown of an adult tree in the dense shadow of the plant will give small berries.
  • Moisture. Strawberry demanding to moisture, can carry short-term flooding, but does not grow on the rejected soils. The drying is very poorly affected by the development of culture. Not only the yield of bushes is reduced, but also slows down their growth and development.

The effects of climatic factors on strawberry yield can be significantly weakened by the correct agrotechnology.

Where better to put strawberries

The best place to land the strawberries are well-lit areas with a flat surface protected from strong winds. The soil should be loose, well anchored, purified from weeds, especially malicious (powder, bindweed, odd, thistle, sick). Surveys of groundwater on a plot of at least 70 cm.

Not suitable for planting strawberries Nizenas, where cold air accumulates. In such places, the harvest matures later on 8-12 days.

Steep slopes are also unsuitable for laying a plantation, because when the soil is melted, the soil is washed and the degradation of plant roots.

Place for planting strawberries choose smooth and well lit.

Strawberry is grown on any soils, but the most preferred are average loams. With the close occurrence of groundwater, the plants cultivate in high ridges. The least suitable for culture are sandy soil; Plants affect them and from low content of nutrition elements, and from lack of moisture. Before landing on such lands, strawberries spend their eyelid.

Predecessors of Culture

  • garlic;
  • green (parsley, dill, salad, kinza, basil);
  • legumes;
  • roots (carrots, beet);
  • all kinds of cabbage;
  • turnip, radish, radishes;
  • bulbous flowers (tulips, daffodils), as well as velvets.

But the best predecessor is a fertilized black or busy steam. However, unlikely, gardeners can allow land to empty the whole season on their already not very large sites.

Bad predecessors:

  • potatoes, tomatoes;
  • all pumpkin plants (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, watermelon).

The bushes are especially oppressed after potatoes. Strawberry does not tolerate the root secretions of this culture.

How to prepare a bed for strawberry landing

The beds are prepared for 1-2 months, the land should settle down, settle. Strawberry loves loose fertile soils, so the replenish must be carried out as deep as possible: on low-ground soils by 18-20 cm, on chernozem - 25-30 cm.

We prepare the ridge for planting garden strawberries.

Strawberry reacts poorly to the direct application of fertilizers under the landing, because it does not tolerate the high concentration of salts in the soil. Therefore, they are applied either under the predecessor, or when preparing a bed. The fertilizers deposited deeply so that they dissolve in the ground and switched to the plants affordable for plants.

On thin soils, 1 m2 make a bucket of completely reworked manure, peat or compost. In the absence of organic fertilizers, it is used nitroammophos or nitroposk (2 tbsp. Spoons / m2).

When planting strawberries on sandy soils, elevated doses of manure, compost or humus - 2-3 buckets / m2 make in bed. You can make a turf land and 3-4 kg of wood sawdust.

On heavy loam and clay soils use river sand with organic fertilizers. 3-4 kg of sand and 2-3 buckets of manure or compost are introduced by 1 m2. Fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the ground and close deep.

Strawberry grows well on neutral and weakness soils (pH 5.5-7.0). If the pH is below 5.5, then the lime is carried out. It is better to bring dolomite or limestone flour, since their action continues throughout the entire period of cultivation of culture in one place (4 years). The rate of payment is 3-4 kg / m2.

Directly under the strawberry, lime do not contribute, but apply 2-3 years before laying a plantation under preceding cultures. Lime can be replaced with ash, it acts significantly softer, it contains the trace elements needed by strawberry bushes. The ash is made under the 14-3 cup / m2 popple.

At alkaline soils, the site acidification is carried out. To do this, use peat, sawdust, overwhelmed coniferous OPEAD (10 kg / m2). The effect of their soft and slow, but long. If it is necessary to slightly acidify the land, then physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers are used: ammonium sulfate, ammonium saltper. The ash on the strongly alcohol soil should not be made.

Selection of strawberry seedlings

When choosing seedlings, special attention is paid to the condition of the bushes. They must be fully formed with 3-5 straightened leaves. The absence on damage leaves, spots, wrinkles is an indicator of the health of seedlings.

For landings, only healthy seedlings are selected.

The highest quality are squat sockets with a large pink or red central kidney. The development of strawberry bush and the first year harvest depends on its size. With the diameter of the Heart of more than 20 mm, it is possible to obtain a crop of up to 300 g of berries in the first year. Bushes with long elongated stiffens and a green "heart" in the first year will give a very small harvest or berries on them will not be at all.

Choose strong healthy copies, weak plants will not only be less yields, but they are more susceptible to diseases and pests. If only remained worst plants, it is better not to take anything at all than buying knowingly problem bushes.

If the strawberry seedlings already blooms, then select instances with large flowers - In the future, these are large berries. It is not necessary to acquire seedlings with small flowers, and, especially the one that has no buds at all.

When booking, the new plantation is taken by 3-5 plants of each variety to subsequently get planting material from them. Best option - This is the acquisition of strawberry 3-4 varieties.

When buying seedlings with an open root system, special attention is paid to the roots. They should be blond, not less than 5 cm long. If the roots are dark, it means the plant is weak and patient, it may not take care after landing.

The point of growth point ("heart") should be thin. The thicker it is, the older bush, from which the socket is taken. Berries on such plants are very small, and the crop it gives only 1 year.

Strawberry landing in open ground

Strawberry plantation form gradually. The most thoughtful method of cultivation is the placement of a row of plants of different ages on the plot of plants. Every year lay down new Grocery.And the oldest strawberry is drunk. Then it will be possible to gradually replace old plants with young strawberry bushes.

Miscovery seedlings of strawberries.

Landing deadlines when it is better to squeeze strawberries

The landing date determines the amount and quality of the first harvest. The main deadlines for planting strawberry bushes are spring, the second half of the summer and autumn.

Spring landing time He strongly depends on the cultivation region and weather conditions. In the middle lane and in Siberia, he falls at the beginning of the middle of May, in the southern regions - the mid-end of April. The sooner the seedlings are planted, the more harvest will be the next year. For the growing season, the bushes are growing and laid a large number flower kidney.

The main drawback of the spring planting of strawberries is the lack of planting material. What is for sale is either sockets received from old bushes, or the latest last year's mustache. None nor the other is high-quality planting material. Old bushes horns are not a young seedling, but the same old bush, divided into sockets. Harvesting from such plants will not, no matter how well they care about them.

A mustache 5-8 of the order is the most weak on the garland and to obtain berries they need to be revealed during the year.

Summer landing date is the most optimal. Determine the most favorable time Landing can be satisfied. When the mustache 1 and 2 orders appear, then it's time to plant seedlings. For the remaining time, the bushes will form a powerful root system and will be completely prepared in the winter. Upon compliance with the crop of 1 year, there must be 100-150 g of berries from the plant.

Autumn time (September-October) The worst from the point of view of obtaining berries for the next year. Bustards will have to be rooted, but they will go to winter poorly prepared, not fully formed, lay down little flower kidney, the crop will be very small (20-30 g from the bush).

In addition, such plants are pretty poorly tolerated in winter: the percentage of loss is very large. In the northern regions, sometimes the strawberry bushes sometimes freeze.

Autumn strawberry landing is possible only when it is necessary to obtain a large amount of mustache for the next year. Then in the spring of these plants remove all the bloomrs, thereby stimulating the formation of as many mustache as possible. In the first year, the bushes give the most powerful mustache, from which the best varietal plants are obtained.

It should be borne in mind that early varieties for optimum deadline Landing gives a smaller harvest than the middle and later - this feature of strawberries.

Treatment of seedlings before landing

Seedlings brought from the nursery is often infected with pests and diseases. To destroy pests, strawberries warm in water with a temperature of 50 ° C, immersing a plant along with a pot entirely into the water for 15-20 minutes. The procedure is repeated twice with an interval of 30-40 minutes.

In hot water, most pests die (ticks, stem nematodes, rootedphids, etc.).
For the prevention of diseases, the seedlings are completely immersed by 5-7 minutes into a solution of copper sulfate or hom (1 h. Spoon) and a salt of salt (3 st. Supplements) divorced in 10 liters of water. Then it is rinsed with water and planted.

Strawberry landing schemes

There are several strawberry landing schemes: compacted, 30 × 60, 40 × 60, 40 × 70.

Seal plant planting. The strawberries are very clearly traced by regularity: the more closest seedlings, the higher the first harvest. With a compacted landing, plants are placed in late varieties according to the scheme 20 × 60 cm (20-25 bushes / m2).

It should not be sealing the aisle, because after the first collection of berries, the strawberry is thinned. If this is not done, then next year it will give very few berries. After fruiting, each second bush is digging and placed on a separate bed according to a 40 × 60 cm scheme. Sealing plantations for these bushes are already unsuitable, such a scheme is suitable only for seedlings.

Seedlings of early grades are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other with a width of a 60 cm. After collecting the berries, it is also defined so that the gap between the bushes was 30 cm.

Strawberry landing according to a 30 × 60 cm scheme. Strawberry gives high yields, only when plants are free to bed and there is no competition from other bushes (exception - first year). According to the 30 × 60 cm scheme, the early strawberry varieties are planting.

Between the varieties in the garden, the distance is left in 80 cm, it is necessary that the mustache does not intersect. It is necessary to avoid all the forces of confusion with varieties.

Landing according to the scheme 40 × 60 cm. According to this scheme, there are medieval and late varieties, since their bushes have more powerful, forming large outlets.

Landing according to the scheme 40 × 70 cm. Such a scheme is used when planting strawberries of secondary and late varieties on highly hydrochloric black soil soils.

Singing bushes can be single-row or double row.

How to put strawberries

The landing is carried out on cloudy days or in the evening, because during the daytime and in sunny hot weather the leaves evaporates the water. And since the bushes have not yet been rooted, and the flow of water in the leaves does not occur, the plants can plant. This negatively affects the further development of culture.

For spring landing Flowering strawberries remove all the blooms, because the main thing is to root and proper formation of plants. The crop of seedlings only depletes the plant, which further leads to its weakening and bad wintering.

Proper planting seedlings.

When planting plants, it is impossible to plunge or raise the "heart", since in the first case it leads to the receipt of seedlings, and in the second - to its drying. "Heart" should be located at the soil level.

When planting strawberries, no fertilizers do not apply, they must be made in advance. The roots spread well, it is impossible to allow their twisting or bending upwards. With the length of the roots above 7 cm, they are shortened, but they should not be less than 5 cm.

When landing in the well, hollyk pour out, evenly distribute roots on it and poured with wet earth. After that, the seedlings are abundantly watered. You can shed water the landing wells and plant bushes directly into the water, then after disembarking, watering is not carried out.

Strawberry landing under black covering material

A black film, or agrofibular (dark spunbond, Lataryil) with a thickness of 100 microns, is used as an injection material. When using a thinner material, weeds germinate through it. It is dismissed on the garden with a solid layer of 1-1.2 m wide.

At the edges, the material is fixed by pressing it to the ground with bricks, boards or sprinkling the earth. Then there are cross-shaped slits on its surface, in which the wells dig up and plant seedlings in them. The slots do after laying the material to the garden. The bushes are tightly crimped, otherwise the mustache will grow and root under the film. No need to be afraid that plants will be closely, the film and agriched are able to stretch.

The ridges make high and slightly slightly to the water flow and fall into the ground around the edges. For the winter, the underfloor material is cleaned, since in winter the plants are spoiled under it (especially under the film). Under the passing material it is better to grow strawberries with a single-row way.

The advantages of such a planting method:

  • significant harvest, as the black surface is stronger than the sun, the soil warms up faster and deeper;
  • berries are practically not affected by gray rot;
  • the growth of weeds is suppressed;
  • less time-consuming process of cultivation.

Disadvantages:

  • uniform watered bushes is practically impossible. Watering plants under the root is also very difficult, because the slits are small and enough water to get into them;
  • the film does not let the air, because of which the roots are puments;
  • weeds actively germinate through the bushes of strawberries;
  • too expensive method of growing

When growing strawberries under the agricultural or film, it is necessary to lay the watering system. It is economically justified only in large farms. On individual garden sites It is too time consuming and costly.

The optimal life of the plantation is 4 years. Then yields are sharply reduced, berries become small and sour, there is a need to update the landing of strawberries.

  • How to propagate strawberry bushes yourself and what mistakes most often do gardeners.
  • Is it worth dealing with ordinary dackets.
  • A selection of the newest, yields and promising varieties.
  • Growing technology and all the pros and cons of this business.
  • Strawberry No wonder the queen of the garden is considered, the correct strawberry care is the key to a large harvest of this wonderful, tasty and useful berries. Growing strawberries and care for it, the point is not such a simple, as it may seem like novice dachensons and gardens. Even experienced gardeners than just do not seek to please strawberries! And the site for it is chosen the solar, and the ground is distinguished the most fertile, and watering ensure timely. And strawberries, despite all the concerns and care, no, no, and even Zakaparizes! But I want not one or two berries, but a good rich harvest.

    For growing strawberries You can choose any soil. Of course, a certain connection between the quality of the soil and the yield still exists. Most best harvest It will, of course, on the black epic of the apodoline soils and on dark gray forest soil of medium and light in composition. Light - gray, turf soil will give a smaller harvest. It is important, and the presence of groundwater, but they should not be too close to the surface.

    For planting strawberries The slopes on the south-west estate are most suitable, with a slope of 2-3 degrees. It is on such sites that the growing process begins much earlier, and the harvest here ripens faster. Plots in lowlands or closed sections are not recommended to use strawberry. If the soil is preserved at a depth of 15 - 18 cm to -8 degrees, then your strawberry can die. The acidity of soil for strawberries should be 5.5 - 6.5, and humus must be at least 2%.

    How to prepare a strawberry plot?

    We have already considered advice on how to fertilize the garden, now about the preparation of the site.
    The sworn enemy of potatoes - the beetle of Colorado, does not leave without attention and strawberry seedlings. Therefore, before planting strawberries, check the soil for the presence of larvae of May beetles and wires. The greatest probability of the presence of these larvae in the territories approximate to the forest belt. Critical mark of the content of larvae per unit area - 0.5 / m.kv. In this case, ammonia water is made to the soil at the rate of 2t / hectare or alkaloid lupine is planted. When the larvae eat his beans, they die. If your section is too clogged with cereal weeds, then the soil is treated with a roundap, at the rate of 3l / ha. Somewhere in October, the soil must be fused to a depth of 25 - 30 cm. In winter, a symbulatention will become a good measure of support and increase soil moisture. In the spring, the soil is harmonized and right before planting strawberries, and then cultivated by 14 - 16 cm deep into.
    Fertilizer for strawberries contribute depending on the results of the tests chemical composition Soil on your site.
    Before planting a strawberry on a new plot, it should be explored on the subject of infection with soil pests. If they are detected, they need to be destroyed, and only after that start plants. If a plurality of larvae of the May beetle was revealed (1 larva for 2 sq. M) or a wire carrier, the soil should be treated with ammonia water at the rate of 2000 l / ha. It is not enough to carry out superficial treatment, ammonia water should penetrate into the soil at a depth of 20 cm. To do this, it will be necessary to resort to the help of a plow or cultivator. In this way, you can guarantee the death of about 90% of the larvae of these pests. However, the owner of the plantation must be scrupulously observed not only the proportion of dilution, but also the tillage time. Processing should be carried out in May, because in the future insects will move to a greater depth, and it will be extremely problematic to get to them. If there is no possibility to use ammonium water, it can be replaced with such insecticides as "Bazedin", "confident", "Marshal". It is best to use them in the period when insects are selected upstairs after wintering in the soil - thus the owners of the plantation will provide them with a worthy reception.

    Quality seedlings

    In order to get rich vintage strawberries, experienced gardeners recommend buying and planting only sorted and well-melanized qualitative seedlings, the diameter of the root neck of such seedlings should be at least 6mm, the roots must be urine, and the processes of the roots are not less than 7 - 9 cm. It is better to plant elite varieties or grades 1- Reproductions. The correct decision will be to plant seedlings of frigo - plants, i.e. Such plants that were dug in late autumn and were stored throughout the winter at low temperatures. Sadovo strawberry seedlings plant in early spring Or at the beginning of autumn. It is very important to invest in the duration of the landing, and put it so early as opportunities allow. If you are late and not planted strawberries on time, then most of the seedlings may die.

    In the fall, it is better to plant strawberries in the period from August 10 to September 25, preferably after the rain, or to provide the possibility of watering. Landing with autumn landing is also detachious for strawberries, as well as with spring.

    Can grow strawberry seedlings yourself

    A suitable primer is taken: universal or specialized, added to 1 part of the soil of 0.3 pieces of sand.

    Earth must be literally sterile. This is due to the fact that the shoots of strawberries are very sensitive to all fungal diseases, just as children. But when forming 2 - 3 of these leaves, the threat of diseases decreases.

    Sterility is achieved by one of the temperature processing methods - the roasting or steam guide, approximately 100 degrees.

    A mixture is poured into the container, slightly compacted, not moisturized.

    Then the snow layer is added to the surface of the substrate, somewhere 3-5 cm. The seeds are unfolded on the surface of the snow, it is better to put in a checker, the seeds are small, so they will be clearly visible on the snow.

    Capacity with seeds are covered with glass or transparent film, put on the windowsill. At first, the temperature is preferable + 18-20, in a week you can increase to +25.

    It is necessary to periodically check the container with seeds, and if necessary, moisturize. While the seeds do not germinate, no additional backlight is required. After the appearance of shoots, they can be heated by daylight lamps.

    Watering, especially in the first days after germs, should be very neat, actually drip in order to avoid overvalued, which can lead to a disease of the seedlings with a black leg and their further lodging, because disputes of this fungus may be contained even in the air. Good prevention is watering and spraying with a weak solution of antifungal agents of plant protection, for example, "phytoosporin".

    As soon as the rapts appear at 2-3 real leaves, we begin to water them more abundantly and gradually teach to the outdoor air if the temperature is above 10 degrees on the street. At this time they are pricted in individual capacity. And when land in open soil It warms up enough, we will transfer strawberries to a permanent place, better in a state of at least 5-6 real leaves.

    The appeared flowers until an adult plant is formed, it is removed, since the bloom strongly depletes the young plant.

    A week after the transplantation, they fertilize with a solution of fertilizers, the concentration of which is reduced by half.

    Strawberry landing in autumn has many advantages over spring planning. The highest argument of autumn landing or transplantation is the receipt of berries next year. When and how to plant? If you put the bushes of strawberries in the spring, then we will rain the harvest only for the next season. In addition, planting seedlings a couple of months before the occurrence of winter contributes to the preservation of flower kidney.

    The autumn landing (transplantation) is carried out when the cold has not yet entered their rights, and the weather pleases the sunny days. Thanks to the heat, the seating material is comfortable adapted at a new residence, rooted, gaining strength for wintering. Autumn strawberry fit is convenient for gardeners as minimizes care costs for bushes, unlike vigilant spring-summer "duty" in beds. In any case, a convenient time for disembarking strawberries Each dacket determines independently. If suddenly for some reason you did not have time to plant this culture in the fall, you can always do it in the spring.

    Autumn landing, photo:

    Strawberry landing deadlines in autumn

    Bustics are important to plant right and on time. Thus, the best period in the Kuban for this process is considered to be October month, and for middle strip - This is August / End of September. At this time, young seedlings will not be exposed to the active attack of pests and diseases, will be able to strengthen, prepare for winter.

    The early-year landing begins with the second week of August and lasts until mid-September. The average deadlines for landing start from the second week of September and continue until October 15-17. The late period begins approximately 30 days before the onset of the first frosts. However, when determining the deadlines, you should always rely on the climatic features of your region.

    The most abundant harvest should be expected after the early or medium-sized landing. The last days of the warm August is the most acceptable period for this process. If you are going to use the mustache of strawberries for landing, then focus on the time from the third week of August on the second half of September. At the later duration of the mustache, strawberries are not recommended to plant, because such a gentle planting material does not have time to fully adapt in a new place before the onset of cold weather.

    Planting process, photo:

    Landing strawberries in autumn - soil preparation, fertilizers

    Not later than a month before landing (transplantation) you must prepare soil. During this period, the Earth, as they say, "Spending" - the roots of young plants will not be taken off afterwards. Strawberry is considered a rather unpretentious culture, but, like any plant, she likes the fertile soil and she has its own "whims". For example, she does not like sandy, peat, clay and dend-podzolic soil. In such conditions, strawberry yield decreases significantly, and it is not recommended to plant it on the swampy soil at all - it will not grow at all. It should be borne in mind that even on the perfect soil for it, the transplantation once every three years should be mandatory. Most. the best choice The soil will become a black mill, loam, soup earth.

    The preparation of the soil under the strawberries when landing in the fall is to improve its composition, increase fertility. This is achieved by the introduction of useful components, an improvement in aeration. Also, good results give pre-sowing mustard or lupine on the place where the strawberry will be planted later. With the arrival of spring, the data of the Sideratus will need to cut, slightly grind and mix with the top of the soil. This technique allows you to saturate soil with nitrogen, improve its structure. Strawberry will grow well at the place where legume crops (peas or beans), broccoli or cauliflower, dill, parsley and other greens. If there were tomatoes or cucumbers on the site, as well as potatoes, then the strawberry may not like it.

    Preliminary landing of the Siderators helps dacms to save on top dressing, but does not exclude them completely. If the Earth was qualitatively saturated in advance, organic additives, then the fertilizer for strawberries when landing can not be made. Moreover, the first couple of years, bushes will not need additional feeding. Well, if sites were grown at this place before, and fertilizers were used to improve their growth, such an environment will become ideal for growing strawberries. If no preliminary work from the earth was made, it is recommended to enter 7-8 kg in the ground by 1 square meter. You can also add the water diluted in water (Boltanka) right during the planting of bushes - it is poured directly in the bed. This culture loves compost, biohumus, woodwood (Pledge of good growth).

    The preparation of the garden does not include the introduction of nitrogen-containing feeding, as they reduce the immunity of plants on the eve of cold weather, frost. The optimal level of soil acidity should be 5-6.5 pp, but not lower. Otherwise, the land will have to be loving.

    If you have an increased soil acidity on the site, then the application is best to produce a couple of years before the estimated landing of strawberries. As for groundwater - it is important that their level does not exceed at least 80 cm to the surface layer of the Earth.

    Pests also love to eat strawberries very much: strawberry nematodes, Khrushch, Wire - the most common "gourmets". If, when the soil is looser, you have found their larvae, then be sure to treat the ground with a broken ammonia (10-15 ml per 10 liter of water).

    Strawberry - landing and care in autumn

    High-quality planting material - a guarantee of a good crop! Choose bushes in which the diameter of the root neck is at least 5-6 mm. The roots must be well developed, not less than 6 cm long. Also pay attention to the number of leaves, there must be at least 4-5 pieces. If seedling was purchased or taken from a neighbor, then it is necessary to plant it as quickly as possible. If the landing process is postponed for any reason, place the bushes there, where the sun's rays will not get to them, and wrap the roots with wet moss (or at least a slightly wet cloth).

    Young seedlings that were grown from seeds are pre-dipped with roots into the clay solution, and only then plunge into the soil. This technique prevents the root system to dry, helps bushes more comfortable to take care.

    Roots at Sedna, photo:

    Preparation of strawberry seedlings to landing:

    1. Plants should only be placed in wet soil. It is preferable to do this at no sunny day, closer to the evening.
    2. Long roots better shorten up to 6-8 cm.
    3. Kori bushes can be placed in the capacity with a growth stimulant (for example, "korevin"), approximately per hour and a half until the moment of reel into the soil
    4. On the recommendation of the experienced gardeners, you can also dangle the roots in the water-garlic tincture. This technique will improve the immunity of plants, scales harmful insects.
    5. Extra leaves on planting bushes is better removed.

    The wells for seedlings should be relatively deep and wide, the distance between them is at least 30 cm. For each bush in the hole, a small hilly of the earth is poured, after which they put a seedling on it, trying to combine the growth point with the surface of the bed. The roots neatly straighten the sides of the Holloch, sprinkled with soil, poured with water.

    Caring for strawberries After landing in the fall lies in the loosening of the soil - it provides high-quality moisture access to the root system of plants. Then the soil around the seedlings can be sprinkled with land with humus or wood sawdust. It will be not bad if the bushes are planted for the winter will be covered with foliage or coniferous sweetheart - so you will force the strawberries during frosts, and the snow masses will remain on the beds. Periodically, the snow will be lifted and thereby moisturize the land. You can also cover the strawberry agrofiber or straw.

    Mulching straw, photo:

    Landing strawberries in the fall is conjugate with some conventions: the growing mustache should be removed immediately, as well as flowerca. At first, freshly stored bushes need to water, but not too abundant (the top bed of the soil should remain wet). After 8-10 days, the frequency of irrigation is reduced, but water volumes, on the contrary, increase. After about three weeks, your seedlings will be adapted to winter conditions. It should not be forgotten that strawberry tolerates drought very poorly, so before the offensive of frosts, it's plenty of moisture ground. When spring comes, it will be possible to remove the protective mulch, clean the bushes from old and damaged leaves. You can also progress and remove the upper soil reservoir (2-3 cm) for better penetration of sun rays, the removal of possible pests.

    Strawberry landing in autumn on agrofibur

    The fact that bushes can be covered with the appropriate material, everyone has long been known. However, you can do the opposite. A rather interesting method is planting seedlings on the observer material.

    Benefits:

    • Lack of weeds.
    • Protection of berries from contact with soil - they remain clean, almost do not rot.
    • This material is not an obstacle to air or water.
    • The temperature of the soil is higher, since "Sogret" agricultural.

    Initially chosen appropriate place On the plot, it should be even, sunny, with a minimal bias. Further, the preparation of the bed should be prepared for the landing of strawberries in the fall - leaving the earth, we remove all the unnecessary (weeds, roots of trees or bushes), fertilize by humus or other appropriate feeders (mentioned above). After that, it's good to recall the soil, outlining the beds, put the agrofiber to the ground. The material color is not so important, but for some reason, in the recommendations of experienced gardeners, you can most often see tips on choosing exactly black agropol.

    Buckets on agrovolokne, photo:

    The canvas need to lay the wax (approximately 20-30 cm), taking into account the shape and size of the site. In the perimeter, we also put heavy items (stones, bricks) and proceed to the fastening of agrofiber on Earth. It is best to do with wire, pre-sliced \u200b\u200binto pieces of 50-70 cm long. Bend the wire in the middle, we do as it were, with the help of which they pinch the material to the ground. This process can be done on the eye or in a checkerboard - as you are more convenient.

    1. We plan space for bushes: the distance between them should be at least 40 cm.
    2. We make cruciform cuts with a sharp knife.
    3. Filing the corner of the outbreak.
    4. We put a bush in the resulting hole.
    5. Crawle corners back.
    6. Do not stand too much to plunge saplings into the soil.
    7. After the end of the planting is well watering seedlings.

    If you have a large strawberry plantation, then when the crash site is noted on the agrovolokne, we advise you to use the marker. It is not difficult to do it.

    Next, care is minimal and consists only in timely watering of plants. This can be done using a hose with a special irrigation nozzle. Thus, under the agropoline will always be wet. Before the onset of the cold strawberries is covered on top of the protective mulch, as described above. In addition to all the advantages of this method, the agricultural fiber will save the berries from pollution, which is especially important in the rain period.

    Strawberry landing in the fall is not any innovation, this reception has long and successfully applied in gardening. If you do everything competently, you will be rewarded generous harvest Early juicy berries. Try and you are this method, especially since it does not represent the special difficulties and use of new technologies.