Organic feed

They contain nitrogen, with a reasonable approach they do not harm the structure of the soil. They are brought in during the period of growth and flowering, during the autumn digging of the soil. During the preparation of plants for winter, organic fertilizing of roses is not given.

Mineral dressing

They act purposefully and quickly, but they can saline the soil and inhibit the root system of plants.

As a golden mean, mineral and organic fertilizers are often recommended to be combined. It is convenient to use complex organo-mineral fertilizers, in which the quantitative ratio of elements is observed.

Natural organic fertilizers for roses

Organic fertilizers include manure, compost, low-lying peat (horse peat, as a rule, is used for mulching and closed ground), green manure plants, infusions of fermented herbs.

How to use manure to feed roses

„Manure for a long time it remained the main fertilizer. Cow dung is dense and decomposes slowly, horse dung is porous, it contains more nutrients, respectively, and the rate of its consumption is less. Bird droppings are fast acting and contain nutrients in a more concentrated and readily available form for plants. It is undesirable to use fresh manure: it causes increased growth of green mass, increases the sensitivity of roses to diseases and pests, moreover, it can burn the roots. For top dressing, rotted manure is used or infusions are prepared from fresh. Chicken droppings are diluted in water at the rate of 1:20, cow dung - 1:10. The mixture is kept in the open air for 7-10 days. Before use, the mullein is diluted by half, the infusion from the droppings is in a ratio of 1: 3.

How you can use kitchen waste to feed your roses

„Kitchen waste have long been adapted by gardeners for compost fertilizers, the most advanced use vermicompost (vermicompost). In this case, the organic matter is processed by earthworms, as a result, the humate content increases in comparison with the introduction of rotted manure.

Humic preparations for feeding roses

“More and more popular are preparations based on humic substances obtained from oxidized brown coal (leonardite), peat, sapropel, and microbiological preparations containing microorganisms. Such fertilizers are environmentally friendly, but they will not become a magic wand - they will quickly and effectively act on cultivated soils, where conditions for the life of microorganisms have already been created.

The use of wood ash for feeding roses

Wood ash- affordable organic fertilizer, contains potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, sulfur. It is used in the form of a solution (30 g per 10 L of water) and dry (200 g per 1 sq. M), embedded in the soil.

Mineral fertilizers for roses

At the time of buying mineral fertilizers pay attention to the composition of the drug. Roses need not only nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, but also trace elements such as iron and magnesium. Iron provides a beautiful rich shade of flowers, magnesium - leaves, with a lack of these microelements, chlorosis develops in plants. Recently, long-acting mineral fertilizers have been popular, which are applied once in the spring. These are granules in a special shell, from which nutrients evenly enter the soil for several months. Usually the concentration of NPK in such fertilizers is high, but the release of substances is gradual under the influence of temperature, water and light.

Fertilization rules for roses

“Before and after fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, the soil is shed abundantly. “In cold weather, it is better to do extra-root dressing by leaves and by running: infusion of mullein, bird droppings, herbs, sodium humate, complex mineral fertilizers.

“If in spring the temperature does not rise above +5 ° C, there is no need to rush: the soil is not warmed up, fertilizers will be absorbed slowly and may even harm the roses, which do not yet strive to grow. It is recommended to wait for the temperature +10 ... + 15 ° С. „

It is quite possible to grow roses on one organic matter, the main thing is not to forget some practical considerations: observe the application rates, do not leave manure on the surface, but embed it in the soil during digging or apply locally, sow green manure, mulch planting.

5 essential seasonal rose dressings

In caring for roses, rely not only on recommendations and advice, but also on your own intuition. Observe the development of the plant and apply fertilizer only in accordance with its life cycle... The first year, subject to the planting rules (planting pit filled with organic matter, mulching), roses are not fed. Further (from autumn or spring of next year), a feeding scheme is followed according to the phases of development of roses.

FIRST ROSE FEEDING (APRIL)

After spring pruning of roses, at the stage of bud swelling - in mid-April or, if spring is cold, at the end. During the period of intensive growth, roses need nitrogen, therefore, nitrogen fertilizers or complex mineral fertilizers with a high content of this substance are most often applied. Before applying fertilizer, it is recommended to spill the soil with warm water so that it warms up and the root hairs begin to work.

Organic application for roses: 3 kg of rotted manure or 100 g of bird droppings per rose bush.

: 25-30 g / sq. m of ammonium nitrate (in this form, nitrogen is absorbed faster than in nitrate), or 30-40 g of complete mineral fertilizer or universal fertilizer with microelements. In liquid form - 1 tbsp. l. one of the above fertilizers per 10 liters of water, consumption - 3-4 liters per rose bush.

Proponents of the combined approach, after applying dry mineral fertilizers, shed roses with organic solutions, the consumption is 3-5 liters of infusion of mullein, bird droppings, herbs on the bush.

SECOND ROSE FEEDING (MAY)

Shoot growth begins in the first decade - mid-May. At this time, the shoots begin to grow actively, and the roses need nitrogen. In addition, the applied April fertilizers can be easily washed out by spring rains or poorly absorbed in cold soil.

Organic application for roses: 3-5 liters of mullein solution.

Application of mineral fertilizers for roses: 10-15 g / sq. m of ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g / sq. m superphos-veil, 10-15 g / sq. m of potassium salt.

THIRD ROSE FEEDING (END OF MAY-BEGINNING OF JUNE)

During the budding period - late May - early June. Roses are fed with calcium nitrate (calcium nitrate helps to form a green mass and protects against rot) - 1/2 tbsp. l. they spill on the bushes with infusions of organic fertilizers in the same proportions as before.

Organic application for roses: 3-5 liters of mullein or bird droppings solution, foliar dressing of roses.

Application of mineral fertilizers for roses: 15-20 g / sq. m of ammonium nitrate, 30-40 g / sq. m superphos-veil, 10-15 g / sq. m of potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate or potassium magnesium. Potassium is responsible for the formation of beautiful flowers.

FOURTH ROSE FEEDING (JULY)

After the first flowering of roses (during flowering, roses are not fed). Roses are fed with a complete complex fertilizer with trace elements (with a sufficient content of potassium and phosphorus).

Organic application for roses: About 100 g of compost.

Application of mineral fertilizers for roses: 40-50 g / sq. m superphosphate, 15-20 g / sq. m of potassium salt.

FIFTH ROSE FEEDING (AUGUST)

After the second flowering. Nitrogen has not been used since the end of July, otherwise the ro-za will remain overwintering with young unripe shoots, which is extremely undesirable and can lead to the death of the bush.

Organic application for roses: Introduce 50-100 g of ash into the near-trunk circle, for digging - rotted manure.

Application of mineral fertilizers for roses: 30-40 g / 1 sq. m of potassium magnesium, 40-50 g / sq. m superphosphate, 15-20 g / sq. potassium salt.

THE MOST EFFECTIVE MODERN ROSE FERTILIZERS

Microbiological fertilizer Azotovit for roses, Industrial Innovation

Highly concentrated liquid fertilizer based on soil bacteria (Azotobacter chroococcum). Bacteria fix atmospheric nitrogen inaccessible to the plant, converting it into forms that are easy to assimilate. Stimulates the development of the vegetative system, the growth of new shoots and buds, increases the color intensity of flowers and leaves. Prevents the development of fungal diseases. Dissolve 30 ml of the drug in 10 l of settled water, watered on wet soil, 3-4 pieces. Shake before use.

Mineral granular fertilizer for roses Gloria, FASCO

Prolonged action. Produced by new technology- each granule has the same composition of nutrients: NPK (5: 9: 5), magnesium, calcium. With the main application, the fertilizer must be evenly scattered over the soil surface and plowed, re-digged or loosened. When applying fertilizer for top dressing, evenly distribute it over the entire area, followed by embedding, loosening or digging for half a bayonet, if necessary, pour the soil.

Fertilizer for roses and chrysanthemums, Bona Forte

Liquid complex fertilizer in a convenient 1.5 liter plastic canister. Contains NPK (3: 4: 8), magnesium, microelements in chelated form. For active budding and abundant long-term flowering, succinic acid and a specially selected complex of vitamins are added to the composition. Roses are fed with early spring until mid-July 1 time / 10-15 days, and it is recommended to combine root and foliar feeding. One canister is enough to fertilize up to 400 rose bushes.

Organomineral granular fertilizer for roses, Fertika

Fertilizer with 18% humate content, NPK (8: 6: 10). Each granule of the mixture contains a complete balanced set of macro- and microelements necessary for the normal growth and development of plants. Main application: 100-150 g per planting hole. Top dressing: in early spring and after flowering, 30-40 g per bush. Watering: 30-40 g per 10 liters of water.

Fertilizer for roses, Pokon

A balanced mixture specially formulated for rose gardens on terraces and balls, so that roses bloom for a long time. The fertilizer contains a nutrient solution with a ratio (NPK 8: 5: 5), as well as iron and magnesium. It is used after each pruning and flowering in a proportion of 10 ml per 1 liter of water.

Agricola for indoor and garden roses, Technoexport

Contains a full range of macro- and microelements, the balance of substances is shifted towards potassium NPK (13:15:18 + microelements). Due to this composition, roses bloom much more magnificently and longer, they leave for wintering strong and prepared.

Growing roses is not easy. These are quite capricious flowers, with their own whims. Without proper care, it will not be possible to grow even a small rose bush, let alone a rose plantation. But if you take good care of the garden queen, then she will thank you with an abundance of luxurious flowers with a wonderful aroma. One of the main points in caring for roses is timely feeding.

Article outline

Fertilizing roses when planting

First you need to prepare the ground at the landing site. Roses like slightly acidified soil, this should be taken into account when designing a planting site. To make the rose comfortable in the chosen place, you can use the following composition:

• mature humus or mullein - a five-liter bucket;
• high-moor peat - a five-liter bucket;
• river sand - a five-liter bucket;
• well dried and crushed yellow clay - a five-liter bucket;
• granular superphosphate - two matchboxes.

You can simply lay out all the ingredients in the place designated for the rosebush and dig up the soil. Or you can add garden soil here (10-liter bucket), mix thoroughly until smooth and make high bed in a place previously cleared of grass.

There is also a third, more economical, landing option: a landing pit. Pour all the ingredients into the previously dug hole, mix right in the hole and sprinkle with a small layer of soil.

The best time to plant a rose in a place prepared in advance is spring, after the warm weather has established itself and the soil warms up. Per summer period the plant will take root well, take root and accumulate strength before winter. It is undesirable to plant roses in autumn - they simply do not have time to form and develop their root system before the cold weather.

If the planting hole or bed was filled correctly, then in the first year after planting, root dressing is not needed for the rose. Young plants can be fed a little on a leaf, and in the fall, in order to prepare a rose bush for the coming winter, you need to spend it.

Mineral fertilizers for roses

After selection suitable place for planting a rose, it's time to choose the right fertilizers for it and figure out which substances, in which fertilizers and for what. All gardeners know that there are two types of fertilizers - and two ways of applying them - root and foliar.

Root dressing

In order for a rose to grow and smell fragrant, you need to understand what substances and why it needs.

Nitrogen

Nitrogen increases the number of shoots, creating a lush "hair" from the foliage. When the bush begins to grow intensively, the rose begins to consume with pleasure a large number of nitrogen. This substance enters the soil with or.

When does the most active growth of new shoots occur? From spring to mid-summer. This time is the most successful for nitrogen fertilization. Later, autumn, nitrogen fertilization will cause new shoots to grow at the wrong time. In order for the plant to endure the winter well, its shoots must be fully ripe, and those grown in the second half of summer and closer to autumn will go under the snow completely unripe, which will lead them to inevitable death in winter frosts. Even if you cover them, insulating them will not help.

Humidity will surely be created under the shelter., accordingly, the process of decay, damping off will begin, this can affect the vital activity of the entire bush.

Excess nitrogen gives the rose rapid development, but there will be a delay in flowering. The number of flowers will decrease, the rose will begin to "fatten", and this is a direct path to a fungal disease.

Most of all nitrogen is contained in young leaves and shoots, their juiciness stimulates the appetite of aphids, therefore, fatty, "gorged" with nitrogen, roses are simply covered with aphids.

What to do with fattening shoots and how to identify them? They are determined by length and thickness, which are much more than average. The plant gives such shoots a lot of strength, although they do not want to branch and bloom. If by the beginning of July a flower has not appeared on this one-year shoot, then it should be cut by a third.

Phosphorus

Roses have a vital need for phosphorus, as it helps the formation of peduncles and flower buds, the development of flowers and a stem, and the number of flowers on the bush depends on phosphorus. But the most important thing is the ability of phosphorus to accelerate plant development. How does this happen?

Thanks to phosphorus, the soluble carbohydrates that make up the cell sap increase their amount, thereby ensuring the ripening of the shoots and, therefore, lowering the freezing point. This is what contributes to the favorable wintering of the rose bush. But you need to keep in mind that phosphorus without potassium is absolutely useless.

Potassium

Lack of potassium affects the rose by the occurrence of diseases. To avoid this, phosphorus-potassium fertilizing is required - 100 grams and 30 grams per bucket of water.

In addition, phosphorus affects the retention of water in plant cells, and the summer heat is much easier for roses to endure. If you feed the plants with potassium and phosphorus in a timely manner, they will reward them with abundant flowering and increased brightness of flowers. It is best to start this feeding during bud formation.

Just like phosphorus, potassium helps wood to ripen. This is due to the increase in the amount of proteins and carbohydrates. Interestingly, the movement of sugars from the leaves to other parts of the rose is enhanced.

Miracle sugar

What are these wonderful sugars? As you know, in addition to all sorts of elements, there is water in the cell sap. What happens at sub-zero temperatures? Crystallization of frozen cellular water. By the way, it is for this reason that they most often die garden plants, in other words, they simply freeze out. And the sugars present affect the formation of ice inside the plant, reducing the amount of ice.

That is why experienced gardeners in the cultivation of roses, with the onset of autumn, always cover rose bushes when it rains. This is done so that the roses do not absorb excess moisture. Plus, sugars will make the protoplasm more viscous, and the amount of water in the cells will decrease, respectively, and less ice is formed in them.

Roses that have been "overfed" with potassium begin to fatten and bloom later than usual., and unblown buds simply rot.

Most often, potassium sulfate is used for potassium feeding. But the use of potassium chloride is not desirable, although this fertilizer contains a lot of potassium.

This dressing also contains chlorine, which has a depressing effect on roses. Better to use potassium sulfate or potassium magnesium. To make the correct solution, you need: potassium sulfate - 30 g, water - a bucket; or potassium magnesium - 1 tablespoon, water - a bucket.

Application of dry mineral dressings

Mineral dressings can be not only in liquid form, they can also be applied dry, after having abundantly watered the ground under the rose bush. Fertilizers should not be poured into the very center of the bush, you need to lay them around the stems, stepping back 10-15 cm from them, and then it is good to shed the soil again.

Roses growing on clay soil do not require frequent feeding, since nutrients in such soil are retained for a longer period than in sandy soil. In a rainy summer, plants need more frequent feeding with an increased dose of mineral fertilizers. When the period of active flowering begins, feeding should be stopped.

Foliar dressing

Top dressing with microelements does not need to be carried out often, a couple of times a summer will be enough. The greatest effect is given by foliar feeding. It is very suitable for weakened plants, especially in cold weather. when root dressing is poorly absorbed by the rose. During spraying, the leaves should be completely moistened on both sides. This top dressing is best done in the evening, or when it is cloudy outside, but there is no rain.

For foliar dressing, only a freshly prepared solution is suitable. Unlike mineral fertilizers, these dressings have a much lower salt content, which has a beneficial effect on the soil, since there is no salinization, and there is no negative effect on soil microorganisms and earthworms either.

For application of foliar dressing, the evening time is usually chosen, then the droplets with fertilizer will linger on the leaves longer. Damp, cold weather with strong evening dew is not suitable for this procedure.

Foliar dressing of street roses can be carried out using a complex liquid fertilizer for room rose... It contains not only essential nutrients, but all important micronutrients.

Organic plus mineral water - excellent effect

Great importance in feeding roses is attached to the pick, which is usually introduced in the spring. If organic and mineral fertilizers are used together, the effect is amazing!

The question may arise: which is better - organic or mineral water? The answer is obvious: organic is more useful.

Explanation: when higher doses of mineral fertilizers are applied, soil salinization occurs, strong salt solutions begin to suppress the root system of the rose bush and prevent it from developing correctly. For better decomposition, organics require some compounds found in mineral fertilizers. By absorbing these compounds and at the same time decomposing, it provides the plants with all the necessary nutrition, at the same time improving the structure and properties of the soil.

The main thing is not to overdo it with mineral fertilizers, everything needs a sense of proportion... By the way, they also have great benefits - the speed of action on the plant in mineral water is higher than that of organic matter. Therefore, the correct symbiosis of mineral and organic fertilizers in the nutrition of a rose bush is so important.

Organic fertilizers include:

• mature compost;
• etc.

Roses are very responsive to organic applications. But with fresh manure, care is required, in principle, it is better not to use it at all, since the roots of roses may not withstand the high temperature when fresh manure decomposes and simply burn out. It is best to use rotted manure or humus.

Organic Rose Dressing Recipes

Infusion of bird droppings

Pour dry bird droppings (1 part) with water (20 parts), insist for a week. Stir well before use, take one part of the solution and add it to three parts of water.

Pour three liters of the resulting fertilizer under each rose bush. You can sprinkle 0.2 kg of dry droppings on square meter soil, after that be sure to water it well.

Infusion of wood ash

Brew wood ash (0.2 kg) with three liters of boiling water, insist for a day, not forgetting to stir. Drain the transparent part of the infusion, drain and add up to ten liters. The remaining sediment is not used.

This infusion is used for foliar feeding on the leaf. Also wood ash can be used dry. In this case, 0.0.3 kg of sifted dry ash should be embedded in the soil under a rose bush.

Manure infusion

The use of fresh manure is not recommended, only fermented infusion. Pour fresh manure (1 part) with 8-10 parts of water, stirring constantly, insist for a week, until it ferments. Since there is a lot of nitrogen in the manure, it does not hurt to add a little phosphorus and potash fertilizers... Dilute with water (1: 1) before feeding. Pour three liters of fertilizer under each bush. This fertilizer is also suitable as foliar feeding.

Rotten manure

They can be used to mulch the soil under a rose bush. And you can apply it as fertilizer after pruning roses in the spring (pour a roller 7-10 cm in diameter around the stems so that there is no contact with the shoots).

Herb infusion

If you're having problems with manure, you can make an excellent organic fertilizer from regular grass. Fill herbs in a ten-liter container, it is better if it is chopped nettle. Tamp it tightly so that a third of the container remains free. Add 0.1 kg of superphosphate or urea, a glass of wood ash, pour water until full, leave to infuse for 7 days in a warm place (you can in the sun). For root feeding, take 1 part of the infusion per 10 parts of water, for foliar feeding - drain the infusion and dilute in a ratio of 0.5: 10.

Fertilizing roses with manure

When to feed

You need to feed the rose bush throughout the season.

Spring feeding

It is done after the spring pruning of the bush, when the buds begin to swell. Can be fed with rotted manure or bird droppings, be sure to add a complex of mineral fertilizers.

As soon as the first shoots appear, liquid feeding is needed in the form of an infusion of manure, and after the appearance of buds, an infusion of bird droppings is well suited.

When spring comes, roses are freed from shelter. At this time, the activation of pests and fungal diseases usually occurs. Plants are still very weak after winter and, of course, they need protection.

To protect roses from fungal diseases, you need to spray them with this solution: dissolve 0.2 kg in a ten-liter bucket of water with the same amount.

Summer feeding

After the first flowering is over, you should feed it with garden compost and complex mineral fertilizer. This should be the end of July. But in late August-early September (when the second flowering has departed), dry top dressing with wood ash plus 40 g / m2 of superphosphate and 20 g / m2 of potassium salt is needed.

Important points in rose feeding

In order not to harm your beloved and beautiful flowers, you should not forget about the main rules in caring for roses:

1. Before applying mineral fertilizing, water the soil under the bush abundantly. You need to carefully read the instructions for the mineral water: if this fertilizer is to be used in dry form, it is not worth making an aqueous solution out of it.
2. If a rose is planted in spring, then this year it does not need mineral fertilizing, since it is planted in fertilized soil. If it is planted in the fall, then in the next spring you can use only half of the norm for feeding.
3. Improper feeding will lead to rose bush disease.
4. Overfeeding the rose with any fertilizers does not lead to anything good.
5. For fertilization, the weather must be warm and dry and the soil temperature high enough. Fertilizers from cold soil are not absorbed by the plant.

Fertilizing roses in practice - fertilization scheme

Roses need different nutrients at different times of the season, so we must correlate feeding with growth cycles. How and how to feed the rose so that they look really royal.

It is necessary to feed roses on time for splendor and rapid growth in the garden ...

As a rule, in the spring it needs nitrogen fertilizers for growth, during the flowering period it needs potassium. During the entire growing season - phosphorus, iron, magnesium, boron, manganese. Let us consider in more detail all the periods of dressing for a garden rose.

The first most important point is fertilization when planting.

There is a widespread belief that you need to fertilize directly into the hole before planting a rose. This is not entirely correct. The soil, of course, should be fertilized, but if you apply top dressing directly to landing pit, then a rather aggressive environment is created there and young roots simply cannot cope with it.

The soil on the site for planting roses must be prepared in advance. For this, organic fertilizer, well-rotted manure, rich compost, peat are best suited. Heavy soil can be mixed with sand and organic matter; put a little clay and organic matter in the sandy soil.

It's a good idea to add some ash from woody plants. In addition to being a good disinfectant, preventing the formation of rot and wounds, ash has a rich set of useful substances.

We carefully lay out all the components of the fertilizers on the proposed site, then dig deeply, mixing well with the ground to the very bottom.

If the pit is well filled with all the necessary nutrients, then we do not feed the roses in the first year of planting. They form new delicate roots that are easy to burn.

If the pit was not prepared, we feed the rose in the spring only organic matter and we make the solution weaker. Meanwhile, young roses can be fed with growth stimulants such as sodium humate. For a safe wintering at the end of summer, you will need phosphorus and potassium.

The next important period for feeding is spring ...

In the spring, the shoots begin to grow actively, especially after pruning, flowers develop, buds set, and more than ever, the rose requires nutrients. It is best to feed with phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizers in the spring.

The source of nitrogen is ammonium nitrate, carbamide or urea, liquid organic matter. Double superphosphate, superphosphate, ammophos - are a source of phosphorus, which contributes to the formation of strong shoots, intensity and quality of flowering. Growth stimulants, sodium humate - they are used as an addition to the main dressing.

It should be borne in mind that superphosphate contains a certain amount of nitrogen and if you fertilize together, then the urea needs to be slightly reduced. Phosphorus (superphosphate) is introduced from May to September.

We make a small circle around the rose bush, stepping back 10-15 cm, a little further than it ends root system... Scatter the required amount, about 10 grams of each fertilizer over the entire trunk circle (hole). After the top dressing has been made, they must be carefully mixed with the ground. Cover the hole and mulch accordingly.

Gradually dissolving in water, precipitation, irrigation, this fertilizer will have a beneficial effect. The rose begins to actively grow, lay buds, gain green mass well, develop new shoots and twigs.

Since the main bait of the plant is made in the spring, it is good to combine mineral fertilizers with rotted manure, compost, while spreading it over the hole. Thus, your plant will receive all the necessary set of useful elements.

Effectively use complex fertilizers ...

For those who doubt that the plant will receive the entire set of necessary microelements, complex mineral dressings for roses are specially produced. In the spring, it is very good to fertilize plants with them, having previously familiarized yourself with the composition.

For example, "Kristallin", "Kemira" (spring) will do. We bring it in liquid (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or dry (40 grams per 1 sq. M.).

When purchasing any complex fertilizers, you should pay attention not so much to the label, but to the composition, marked (spring or autumn).

For roses in spring, an equal percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is better. If phosphorus predominates in the composition, then this is permissible for a rose, since this element contributes to the growth of the root system and abundant flowering.

If the composition is dominated by an element that is currently unacceptable (potassium), then it is better to choose for spring feeding another fertilizer with a high nitrogen content.

Application of dressings at the time of budding and flowering.

She actively uses useful substances when a rose is in bloom, and she needs a lot. But during this period, the emphasis is not on nitrogen. New shoots grow from nitrogen fertilizers and by winter they do not have time to form, which is why they freeze in winter.

Potassium is used more - potassium nitrate, potassium salt, potassium sulfate without chlorine (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride. Such feeding is necessary for roses during the period of their budding and flowering, as well as in preparation for winter.

With a lack of potassium, plants get sick, therefore, for prevention, potassium-phosphorus fertilizing is recommended (100 grams of superphosphate plus 30 grams of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water). Potassium, together with phosphorus, affects the abundance of flowering and even color. It is especially good to feed roses during the budding period.

Fertilizers can be applied to the trunk circle (hole) and sprayed, making foliar feeding in between the main ones. Choose a cloudy day or evening when the sun goes down.

Closer to autumn, so that the rose can prepare for winter and the shoots are well ripe, so that the root system is sufficiently developed, we feed the plant with phosphorus and potassium. At the end of summer, we exclude nitrogen from fertilizing.

On the manure, the rose literally blooms.

The most delicious fertilizer for garden roses- this is, of course, rotted manure, good compost, herbal infusions, peat. All these organic dressings are great for the development of the rose and can be used at any time.

Organics are used as mulching, in the spring they are placed near the bushes. This will simultaneously protect the soil from the appearance of weeds, serve as a source of nutrition and enrich the soil with humus, and improve its composition.

Organic substances improve the absorption of minerals and are best combined. It is useful to water the roses with the addition of organic matter after each mineral dressing.

All fertilizers are applied in liquid form (about 3-4 liters per bush). Before feeding a garden rose, the ground must be watered.

Dry feeding of roses is possible only after abundant watering. You cannot pour into the center of the bush, you need to retreat 10-15 cm.

Do not forget about loosening the soil, mulching with peat (5-7 cm) in autumn, after spring or summer pruning.

The rose is a royal flower. A lush and luxurious rose bush will adorn any site. Not every gardener succeeds in achieving this: due to mistakes made in the spring, when the plant is gaining strength and minerals for further growth. You need to feed roses in a timely manner, using correctly selected natural fertilizers or special garden preparations.

"Queen of the garden"

Fertilizers used to feed roses

In order for flowers to actively develop, they need 2 types of nutrients:

• macronutrients;
• trace elements.

Macronutrients are fertilizers that must be supplied to the bushes regularly in large quantities. First of all, these are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These elements stimulate healthy growth, promote the development of roots, shoots, leaves, strengthen the buds and increase the period when the flower will bloom. A deficiency of these substances, primarily nitrogen, can lead to diseases of the flower and its unstable growth. Nitrogen helps to strengthen the shoots and branches of the bush, urgency it is observed in the spring, while phosphorus and potassium must be added in the summer.

Spring is the period of the awakening of the rose. After winter, the flower needs powerful support in the form of nutritious fertilizers. The rose has the greatest need for nitrogen-phosphorus supplements, which help the plant gain strength after winter, stimulate the development of new shoots, and promote bud setting.

How to improve yields?

We are constantly receiving letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year there is a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS on this matter. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulants that will help increase the yield up to 50-70%.

Read ...

Nitrogen is contained in ammonium nitrate, urea, and liquid organic matter. In addition to it, it is recommended to use phosphate fertilizers: superphosphate, ammophos. When choosing, you should take into account the composition of the fertilizer, as a rule, phosphates also contain nitrogen, so you need to carefully choose the dosage. Sodium humate stimulates plant growth well - it is often used as an auxiliary agent.

To fertilize the plant, you need to make a small circle with a radius of about 30 cm around a young or immature bush after winter. After that, the substance (on average about 10 grams) must be carefully poured into the hole.

Fertilizer in the hole must be mulched (sprinkle with sawdust, peat or moss). You can pre-dilute the dressing in water and water the bush with it. One way or another, with the help of water, it will reach the root system.

The effect of mineral fertilizers is enhanced by the addition of manure or compost, which is laid out over the hole. In the spring, the foundation for the future health of the bush is laid, this is the main stage of feeding.

Top dressing in summer just before flowering

Even an abundant number of buds on a rose bush cannot be a guarantee of a lush and long flowering period. Nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers stimulated the growth of the plant, however, in order for the buds to appear on the shoots, which in the future can fully bloom, other minerals are needed.

Effective remedy fertilizers based on potassium will become: saltpeter, potassium salt, potassium chloride or potassium sulfate.

Lack of potassium in the soil will affect flowering: it will be scarce and insufficient. Also, a deficiency of potassium fertilizers can provoke the development of diseases, especially during budding.

Yeast feeding

Yeast is unique and universal material used in the most unexpected industries, including horticulture. They are rich in vitamin B and other minerals, and microorganisms inside the yeast promote the natural release of phosphorus and nitrogen in the soil.

The main condition for effective yeast feeding is warmth. In the cold, microorganisms are not able to continue their development and produce useful compounds, they either stop growing or die altogether.

You need to start fertilizing roses with yeast even before the buds bloom, in the spring, when the warmest weather is set. For the solution, add in 1 liter warm water 50 grams of yeast (1 gram of dry yeast can be used) and 1 teaspoon of sugar.

The resulting mixture should be left warm for 2 hours, then diluted and watered.
For the whole season, 2-3 such dressings are enough. You can break the process down into stages: before flowering, in spring, and in summer. During feeding, you should add eggshells to the soil or wood ash to prevent the yeast bacteria from absorbing potassium and calcium.

How easy is it to grow a gorgeous "garden queen"?

Top dressing with manure

Manure can rightfully be called a favorite fertilizer. With its help, plants are transformed and begin to grow at an accelerated pace. You can fertilize flowers with manure at any time: before flowering, during and after it.

It is highly discouraged to use fresh manure, it is better to take rotted, horse or cow manure. It contains all the necessary micro and macro elements that a rose needs throughout its life cycle. It can be applied to the soil in two ways: with mulch or during watering. When watering, the manure must be diluted with water (about 2-3 buckets will be required per barrel), cover and leave for two weeks. Then this solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 3.

Feeding a rose is a very important and necessary process in order for the bush to begin timely and long-term flowering. With the correct selection and dosage of fertilizers, rose bushes will delight with luxurious buds throughout the summer.

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Tell me how to feed roses in spring for lush bloom? I replenished my rose garden with two new varieties, the seller assured that the bushes should bloom continuously. But very few buds are tied on the roses, and no new ones have yet to be seen. Maybe they are missing something?

It has long been noted that roses feel great after organic dressing. However, "you will not be full" with manure alone, with large doses of nitrogen, the growth of green mass and shoots will prevail in the development of the bush, and flowering will either not come, or it will be very scarce. But roses are grown precisely because of their amazing flowers. Therefore, it is so important to give the shrub those trace elements that will help it bloom luxuriantly.

What do roses need for abundant flowering?

In order for roses to bloom actively, they need the following trace elements:

1. Phosphorus - promotes the formation of new buds and large flowers, prolongs flowering.
2. Potassium - is responsible for the rich color of roses, prolongs flowering.
3. Magnesium - stimulates the emergence of a new ovary, gives the petals a bright color.

Roses respond well to feeding: dilute the drug in an amount of 50 g in a liter of warm water and dilute the solution in a bucket of water. Pour the rose under the root. In dry form, superphosphate must be scattered under the bush and embedded in the soil with a hoe (25 g per bush) a month before the roses bloom.

The greatest effect is obtained by the complex application of mineral fertilizers, especially potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. As a result of such dressings, strong buds and lush flowers are formed.

To do this, add 10 liters of water in the month of May:

• 10 g;
• 10 g superphosphate.

Use the resulting solution for watering roses. After a month, repeat the procedure.

Complex fertilizers for lush flowering

Today in specialized stores there is a wide selection of preparations consisting of a whole complex of trace elements that make the rose bloom abundant and long-lasting, and even bring it closer.

Fertilizing roses before flowering - video