Metal furnaces are distinguished by ease of operation and reliability, but quickly cooled and cut the air into the steam room. Hard radiation from hot metal walls has a negative effect on the well-being of people, besides, there is a risk of burning about a hot surface. Eliminate all these problems very simple - just put the furnace with brick.

When the brick screen is erected, it is necessary to fulfill all the conditions prescribed in SNIP 21-01-97 (fire safety of buildings and structures).

Snip 21-01-97. Fire safety of buildings and structures. File for download

Although the brick is not heated as much as the metal, it is impossible to lay it closely to the wooden walls of the bath or on unprotected floorboards. It is also necessary to leave the gap between the stove walls and the brick width from 5 to 10 cm. In the absence of gap, the furnace will overheat and, as a result, its service life will significantly decrease. If the distance do more than 10 cm, the heating of the pair will slow down, the fuel consumption will increase.

The base for the furnace and the brick screen should be general, otherwise the uneven load distribution will provoke a seating individual elements. If when installation of the furnace, the heat-resistant base was performed with a margin in the area, additional preparation for brickwork is not required. If there is no such reserve, and the edges of the site perform from under the furnace case no more than 2-3 cm, it is necessary to disconnect the chimney pipe, dismantle the furnace, carefully and for all the rules to prepare a new base.

To cover the furnaces, a full-length red brick is usually used, characterized by heat resistance and durability. Suitable for these purposes and chamotte brick, but it is harder to process, and it costs it more expensive. There is a ceramic refractory brick with a decorative surface, which has the same properties as the usual, but aligns much more effectively. With it, you can not only improve heat exchange and protect yourself from hard radiation, but also make the stove with a pair decoration.

It is permissible to apply the hollow red brick, especially if you want to reduce the load on the base. That's just the temperature he keeps worse and cools faster. And the very a budget option - Using red brick used, you only need to carefully clean it from the remnants of the old solution.

Note that construction material It is necessary to take with a reserve, as in the process of laying, brick waste is inevitable.

First you need to calculate the overall weight of the stove and brickwork. The easiest way to find out how many bricks will be required for one row of the screen, it is to lay them around the stove at a distance of 4-5 cm. Usually the square 3x3 or 4x4 bricks is obtained, that is, from 9 to 16 pieces in one row. To calculate the number of rows, the height of the furnace should be divided into the height of the brick - 65 mm. On average, it is 11-12 rows of masonry. Next, multiply the number of bricks in a row on the number of rows and by weight of one brick, and we get the weight of the screen. Now the weight of the furnace and water tank remains to this value.

For example, we take red single brick weighing 3.4 kg, the metal furnace "Kiurasir" weighing 57 kg and water tank weighing 30 kg. The masonry consists of 10 rows, in a row of 9 bricks.

Perform calculation:

• 9x10x3,4 \u003d 306 kg (brick masonry weight);
• 306 + 57 + 30 \u003d 393 kg.

Conclusion: This screen can be installed without an additional foundation.

Now take a red refractory full-year brick that weighs 4.2 kg, the oven "Heat standard" 102 kg and 50 kg tank. In the laying of 11 rows, the series consists of 16 bricks.

Perform calculation:

• 11x16x4.2 \u003d 739.2 kg (weight of masonry);
• 739.2 + 102 + 50 \u003d 891.2 kg.

Conclusion: For such a screen, a separate foundation is mandatory, the floor overlapping is not enough such a load.

If you succeeded less than 700 kg, the basis for the furnace and the brick screen can be made on top of the floor boards, pre-strengthening the lags with additional bars. If the weight is more than 700 kg, you will have to make a separate foundation, otherwise the floor overlap will not stand and cover.

Make a reliable pad under the furnace and the brick screen on the floor boards is not difficult. At first, it is necessary to make sure that the lags are in good condition and will withstand such a load. For this, there are 2-3 boards at the location of the oven and carefully examine overlaps. Running or damaged areas of the lag should be replaced. If the step between lags is not less than 1 m, for reliability it is worth securing in the middle another pine timing with a cross section of 100x150 mm or a larch of 75x150 mm. Hinders should also be dense, without cracks and damage, a thickness of at least 30 mm.

When the overlaps are strengthened, you can perform a marking: on the floor, the parameters of the heater are noted, added from each side of 5-10 cm for the gap and 20 cm on the masonry itself. From the side of the furnace add another 50 cm so that the floorboards are reliably protected from fire. It is especially important to comply with the rules prescribed in SNIP III-G.11-62.

Heating furnaces, smoke and ventilation canals of residential and public buildings. Rules of production and acceptance of work. File for download

Take a refractory material, such as asbestos cardboard, cut it in accordance with the markup lines and laid on the floor. It is also convenient to use special heat-resistant ceramic plates and calcium silicate.

The refractory material is attached to the floor-haired screws, and then two layers of bricks are placed on it.

Brick can only use chamotte or full-length red, other species are not suitable. Before laying a brick, it is recommended to soak in water.

As a solution, either a special masonry mixture for furnaces can be purchased in any construction store, or a mixture of clay, cement and sand in a 1: 0.15: 3 ratio. Adding cement improves the plasticity of the solution and the density of the masonry.

Clay solution masonry. Determine the quality

On top of the refractory plates, lay the solid layer of brick, squirt to the cell, necessarily focusing on the level. The edges of the masonry should not be outside the markup, there should also be gaps between bricks. The surplus of the solution at the edges immediately remove the cells. When the lower row is completely laid out and aligned, start laying the second, upper layer. Here everything is performed in the same way, only brick laid with a displacement, overlapping the seams. Remove excessive solutions from all sides, give reason to dry.

Monolithic foundation

Monolithic Foundation - Scheme

Step, Nos.	Process description	Illustration
Step 1	A separate foundation is needed under massive design. Of course, it is more convenient and easier to do it in the construction of the bath, but if the brick screen was originally scheduled, work is slightly complicated.
Step 2.	First dismantle the furnace and placed on the semi parameters of the screen, then it is added to the perimeter on each side another 10-15 cm. After that, the floor and overlapping sections are cut out, the ground is chosen to a depth of 0.5-0.6 m. It should turn out to be rectangular Or square shape with smooth vertical walls.
Step 3.	The bottom should be thoroughly compressed with the help of a traam, and on top of pouring a layer of fine rubble to a height of 20 cm. After leveling and rubbing rubble, the sand layer is poured up to 15 cm, which is also tamped.
Step 4.	For waterproofing, the pits need referencer. It is fixed so that the walls and the bottom are covered completely, without the slightest gnesks. Ruberoid bands necessarily fill the brackets, and the edges are labeled with bitumen mastic and pressed. If there is no runneroid, it will completely replace the dense film from polyethylene, laid by a double layer.
Step 5.	After waterproofing, it is embarrassed by the manufacture of a reinforcing frame, which is made of steel branches with a cross section of 8-10 mm. The size of the skeleton cells 5x5 or 10x10cm. Under the rods on the bottom, pieces of bricks or plastic backups are placed, between vertical lattices and walls of the pit also leave a small gap.
Step 6.	The standard concrete solution is mixed and poured a hole, but not to the top itself, and 15-20 cm below. Immediately the solution must be pierced in several places with a steel rod or compact the vibrate to remove air bubbles. There is time to dry out the foundation, so the work suspend at least 3 weeks.

When the foundation is quite hardening, it is covered with a rubberoid in two layers and lay a platform from a brick described above by the method. Now you can put the oven back to your place and start making a brick screen.

If the basis of the floor in the steam room is a concrete screed on the ground, the preparation of the foundation will not require great effort. To do this, place a section under the oven and brickwork, it is covered with two layers of rubberoid so that the edges of the waterproofing protrude beyond the perimeter by 10 cm. Ruberoid cannon glued together with bitumen mastic. Next lay out the brick base and give it to completely dry.

Making a solution

Most often, when plated, the furnace uses a solution of clay and sand in a 1: 2 ratio. Many home masters recommend the following proportions for the kneading: 4 parts of clay, 8 parts of sainted sand and 1 part of water. It is advisable to take clay from the depths of 1.5-2 m, clean, without different impurities. So that the clay has acquired the desired viscosity, it must be soaked for 2-3 days in water, and then wipe through the sieve. If this is not done, small pebbles or plant residues may be in solution, which will not only make it difficult to the masonry process, but also negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Apply for masonry and the following solution: 1 part of clay, 1 part of the sand and on a bucket of a solution of 100 g of cook salt. Clay should be pre-closed in water, sand-owned sand. Water when they are poured with small portions, so that the mixture does not become too liquid. The finished solution is well holding the shape, does not stick to the cell, it easily slides from the walls of the container.

Excellent qualities have a clay solution with an admixture of chamotte powder and cement. It takes 60% of the total weight of clay, 35% chamotte powder and at least 10% of cement. If you do not have a desire to select the proportions for the solution, use the finished masonry mixture that you only need to breed with water to the desired consistency. It should be kneaded by small portions so that it does not have time to dry up before applying.

Clay Masonry Solution - Photo

Furnace clamp technology

Step 1. The entire brick designed to cover the oven is soaked in a large capacity with water for 30-40 minutes, and begin to mark up the masonry.

If the experience in such affairs is small, you can pull the threads on the plumb and consolidate them with nails. Another way: to the wooden floor on both sides of the furnace to attach vertical bars. It is very convenient to fix them with the help of struts from crashes. Between the racks stretch the thin cord or line along the markup line at an altitude of 70 mm from the floor. Now when laying a brick, you will immediately navigate on the fishing line, and the row will lie down smoothly. The only inconvenience is that the fishing line will have to constantly raise for each new row.

Step 2. Mix a small amount of solution, approximately half a bucket. When you use it, you can identify more accurate how much mixture will be needed for further work.

Step 3. In order not to count the solution from the heater, it can be bought polyethylene film, fixing the edge of the scotch.

Work starts with angle: take a whole brick and put it with plafhmy along the laid lines on the solution. This method is called "in Polkirpich" and is considered the most convenient for plating a bath furnace. You can lay the brick and on the edge (many are so made to save the building material), but then the thickness of the screen will be less, and its effectiveness will noticeably decrease. Each brick is squared along the line, if necessary, hesitate to be aqueous or celma, immediately remove the excess solution. All seams should be filled with a mixture and have the same thickness - about 5-7 mm. Put a row to the end throughout the perimeter.

Step 4. From the second row, the laying is strengthened with the reinforcing grid. For this, it is cut on a strip of 5 cm wide and laid on top along the row.

In the corners of the laying, the strips can be tied by a piece of thin wire to give the additional strength to the reinforcing layer. A solution is applied to the grid and bricks lay out. The second row starts from the same angle as the first, but take not a whole brick, but half a half. It is necessary for dressing seams and build masonry.

Step 5. In the third row, four holes should be made for air circulation - two from the opposite sides of the screen. The easiest way - instead of a whole brick, put it half, retreating from the previous one by 5-7 cm. The next brick is laid at the same distance, and it turns out 2 small identical gap in the masonry. Then there is a solid masonry to the opposite side, where the gaps between bricks leave again.

Step 6. The following 5-6 rows lay out skylight, with mandatory dressing of seams. Each row check the level and vertically, and horizontally so that the screen does not shift to the side. The excess solution is removed by celma, control the thickness of the seams. The non-uniformity of the seams is very clearly visible on the finished masonry, and the elimination of such a defect will not work.

At the level of the ash bar and fireboxes, from the loop side, the masonry should not interfere with the doors to open. For this, bricks are first put without a solution and arrange their location using the door movement. The opening on top is overlapped with two sections of the steel corner, having them from the outer and inside of the masonry.

Step 7. In the second row of the top of the screen, another 4 holes described above should be made. Such a layout of the holes will provide high-quality circulation of air masses - cold air will be drawn from below, the heated is leaked on top.

The number and location of the convection holes depends largely on the type of furnace. For very powerful models it is recommended to use non-solid, and lattice masonry, with gaps between bricks up to 10 cm.

There is a very simple way to adjust the heat exchange in a pair with such holes. During the masonry process, several openings of 250x70 mm are made. After completing work in these openings, bricks are inserted. When you need to warm the steam room, bricks are removed, and the hot air from the furnace is well separated by the room. As soon as the temperature rose to the desired mark, the openings are closed again, and the heat exchange slows down.

Step 8.. The masonry is usually completed at the level of the slab surface, although in some cases it is raised to the ceiling, closing the chimney. Brick should not close to the wooden walls, nor to the ceiling, there must be a small gap between the surfaces.

While the solution is still wet, it is necessary to perform the decays of the seams so that the view was neat and attractive. Keep the masonry must at a stable temperature, heated the stove at this time is not recommended.

Council. If you have purchased a convection casing, it will have to remove it, since after the roaming the function of the casing will be brick screen.

For round ovens, the screen also make round. There are no special differences in the masonry process, although the bricks in a circle are a bit more complicated than in a straight line. Convection holes are located symmetrically on both sides of the masonry. It is very important to observe the same distance between the furnace and the screen over the entire height of the masonry.

To give bricks a more even and saturated color, the surface of the masonry is recommended to be treated with a brush with a rigid bristle dipped in a solution of economic soap. It is necessary to rub enough intensively, removing the smallest particles of the solution from the surface of the bricks, and then everything is rinsed with clean water.

How to put a stove with remote furnace

The bath oven is not always located entirely in the steam room, very often her furnace goes to the pre-banker or to the street. In this case, the tab is performed a little differently.

Step 1. Determine the location of the furnace and make a foundation under it according to the technology described above.

When a concrete base is dry, they put the stove on it and placed on the wall output for the furnace. Since the hole must be more furnace, the perimeter of the markup is increased from each side by about 20-25 cm.

More accurate parameters of the opening of the furnace should be specified by the manufacturer in the passport of the furnace. For example, for some models, the hole in the wall should be vertically more than 50 cm and on the sides - by 25 cm.

Step 2. With the help of a grinder cut out through hole In the wall, purify the opening of garbage and dust.

To verify the correctness of the design of the structure, the stove is put and temporarily set it on the prepared base. If the housing is exactly exactly, the furnace does not act too beyond the walls, you can proceed to the isolation of the opening and brick laying.

Step 3. The stove again assign to the side, prepare material for insulation of the walls. Here you will need basalt cardboard, cerootkan, aluminum foil and minister sheets - modern non-combustible material that does not emit harmful substances. Basalt cardboard is cut by wide stripes and attach to the walls of the opening stepper throughout the perimeter. The edges of the material wrapped on the walls on both sides and also fix. The next layer is cerootkan, and on top of the foil.

Step 4. Take a sheet of minoritis and cut the hole in it for the furnace accurately in size. In the second sheet, the same hole makes the same hole, after which they install both sheets from the inside pair to the impact. Materials attached to the wooden walls of self-draws.

In the photo - Mineritis leaf fixed

Step 5. Bricks are soaked in water, prepare a solution for masonry. Start work from the outside: lay out the first row to the Polkirpich, the extreme bricks can be placed across the row, forming small decorative protrusions. In the second row under the roller, you need to leave a small hole for air inflow. There are 2-3 cm gap between the brick and metallic housing, so the metal will not overheat and break, the masonry will also serve longer.

Step 6. When the laying on both sides of the opening will be slightly higher than the furnace, you need to put two sections of the steel corner from above so that they do not touch metal surface. A brick is put on the corners and continue the construction of the wall.

Step 7. Crop the surplus foil and cardboard, formed around the perimeter, the clearance is filled with basalt cotton wool. Cotton are carefully compacted to in the process finish finish She did not get out the walls.

Step 8. Go to the steam room and proceed to the stove. To do this, first install the furnace on the base, the chimney is connected. Next to the perimeter of the furnace place the laying line and the brick screen is erected according to the method described above.

When to make a complete and partial plating

The furnaces have different power and differ in dimensions, therefore the level of radiation from metal walls is different. If the Kamenka is spinning very much and be in the paired, it is uncomfortable, it is necessary to fold it completely and the screen should be solid. If only it is necessary to increase the heat capacity of the body of the furnace, it is enough to put a heater from the sides and behind, leaving an open front part. If the pair of little space and about the stove often somebody burns up, it is best to make a lattice masonry along the perimeter of the heater.

To more accurately decide whether you need such a screen, try making a dry temporary laying. To do this, around the heater, retreating the desired distance, to put the brick with rows without a solution. Stay in Pollikirpich, you can with small gaps. Leave the oven open in front. The most important thing is to thoroughly align the rows, otherwise the laying will fall.

Having placing bricks to the top of the stove, melt the bath and compare your feelings. If the heat became noticeably softer, and it is much more comfortable in a steam room, it means that the screen of bricks is necessary.

Of course, this method can only be temporary, as an experiment. For reliable and durable masonry, a solid base is necessary and, of course, a binder solution. Only the masonry executed by all rules will be able to provide the desired effect and security for bath visitors.

Video - How to Cover Metal Furnace Brick

Video - Oven Stove Teklar Brick

Most important element Baths - stove, it gives heat and heats the water. You can put inexpensive iron stove ("Burzhuyku") and then only one question will remain - how to set the oven in the bath brick so that she long retained heat. With such work can cope with the newcomer if the tips will adhere to the councils.

Put a stone oven is quite difficult and expensive, option with metal cheapest and simple, It remains to purchase all the necessary building materials for work, read the recommendations how to set the iron oven and work for work.

What will take for work

The number of bricks and solutions depends on the size of a metal furnace. Be sure to choose a refractory brick, although there is no direct contact with open fire, the durability of masonry is important. No matter how good the building material is, in the process of using the temperature drops, the laying will collapse. The stability of masonry is very important, so that the brick wall is not collapsed in the work of the stove.

Prepare the necessary tools for work:

• Master OKIt is superimposed with a solution.
• Pick. Split a brick without this tool will not be possible.
• Level. The most important thing in the construction process is to comply with accuracy. The wall of the stove should be absolutely even and symmetrical.
• Metal corner. Without this final element, the wall will not stand.

Now let's see what brick is to lay the iron oven in the bath. Use in your work you can the most inexpensive silicate brick. You can the number of bricks yourself, the size of the brick:

• Single Brick 250x120x65.
• Overhead Brick 250x120x88.
• Double Brick 250x120x140.

By type of bricks - you can take inexpensive construction, but it looks good and the most durable clinker brick looks. It is best to use for masonry one-and-a-half brick. It is possible to set down the oven rather quickly, the masonry turns out beautiful and smooth. At the end of the article, you can find master classes on which there is not only step-by-step instructionHow to properly set the iron furnace with bricks, but also an accurate description of all stages of work.

Put iron oven brick

Let's start with what is needed to run an iron stove, because she heats up fast enough, and water warms up in a matter of minutes, but warm in the bath save the iron oven is not able. As long as you put firewood in the furnace, the stove walls are hot, and to accumulate and save warm, needed brickwork.

With the brick wall around the iron stove in the bath is easy create a comfortable air temperature, Also beautiful Wall Must affects you from random touchs to superheated gland. Air in the bath will be comfortable and warm. The stove gives the heat that accumulates and is saved by brick masonry.

A frequent question - what solution to use? The best thing use a mixture of clay and cement. The consistency of the solution should be uniform, excluding the presence of lumps and pebbles. It is necessary to knead the solution to such a state when you can twist the harness, plastic and soft. When folding the flashes into the ring on its surface, cracks should not appear. It is such a solution will withstand large temperatures and last long. You can use a solution of clay and sand or buy ready-made mixtures for masonry tiles consisting of cement and glue. Such solutions have excellent clutch and are able to hold the masonry for many years.

Check the foundation before work

If you have a round stove in the bath and you think it is possible to put it with a brick, then do not doubt, you will find at the end of the article detailed master classeswhere it stages to tell how to put a round iron furnace. The strength of the design is important, on this condition, the laying will serve for many years.

Before starting work, make sure the floor will end the load. If in the bath wooden floor, then it is worth strengthened. After all, it is not easy to put the stove in the bath brick, but to do it right and for a long time.

The iron stove itself is not so heavy, but the wall of the brick will be very pressing on the floor. So check the foundation and additionally fill it if necessary. The distance from the heating surface to the masonry should be accurately measured with too much gap between the stove and masonry heating the wall will be long. Ideal is the distance between the iron wall and masonry in the amount of from three to five centimeters. Too small distance will lead to early destruction of the design. Airbag between the stove and the wall you will do will evenly warm the room.

Brick wall thickness

Masonry thickness is calculated half of the standard brick. The first layer is very tightly dried onto a well-drying foundation - this is the base of masonry and it should be reliable. Correctly put the iron furnace with bricks - it means to put this wall in which there are no cracks. The second row of bricks must have air holes for ventilation. Enough leave the gaps in PollipichSuch ventilation holes should not be too much, you quite have two ventilation holes on each wall.

All subsequent ranks are laid, as the first. Try to lay bricks so that they put in a checkerboard. To the level of the door of the furnace wall should be dense. Next, the laying will depend on the size of the door, it will already need a metal corner here, because lay a masonry from above otherwise you will not succeed. The same condition for pondered to open the door freely, the corner is installed for a couple of centimeters above the door. Both door holes should be strictly parallel - the level will come in handy.

When the wall is posted, it remains to think how to make the top. You can leave it open in the bath, after all, it is possible to set out the oven and all the holes for the bay of water. without masking it. Such a solution suggests additional ventilation. If you decide to make masonry above the oven itself, you need a metal plate with accurate slits for the chimney and the bay in the water tank. The stove is good and the fact that it will protect you from random touch to the too hot surface of a preheated stove.

Finished design must necessarily dry dry, Only then you can think about the decor and staining. If you hurry and paint or believes the brick too fast, then in the room when heated will be a steady smell of chemistry.

Material Decoration Material

Now we define - than to lay an iron oven. Brick selected, but after all you can make a wall not easy reliable, but also beautiful. To do this, you need to use facing ceramic tiles, on the finished wall it is laid out by rows from the bottom up.

It is important to leave the gaps between the tiles - special crosses will help you beautifully lay out a facing tile on the finished wall. So as a result of the work, she looked beautiful, the seams need to wipe until the solution was frozen, a regular sponge is useful for this. When the laying dry, all the seams need to fill in a special grout into tone tone.

You can make a metal stove brick with your own hands and further to do it decoration. The madding will seem to you noncain, the first work with brick and inability to correctly and beautifully clean the seams - not a problem. If you seem to be unfinished and want to make a bath oven several times more beautiful, take advantage facing tiles. In this case, you will need a good stovetur to carefully cut off the corner pieces.

A small and compact cast-iron stove in a country house, a summer facility, in a bath or a steam room - a practically indispensable source of heat. It creates comfort and heats the room.

At the same time, the iron furnace, it is always compactness and simplicity of installation, and enough fast heated Room area. But there are also its cons that we will correct, having learned how to put the cast-iron furnace with a brick on your own forces.

Photo - cast iron in brick

Why need to be plated metal

First of all, the metal has its own physical features, which affect the comfortable neighborhood with such a stove:

• In a metal furnace, it is rather difficult to maintain a steady temperature. In this case, it will affect sharp fluctuations in the room temperature.
• Almost impossible to achieve desired humidity Air indoors where such heating equipment is.
• Low degree of security, in the sense that the heated metal is a serious danger upon receipt of burns, and sometimes strong.

It is in order to eliminate the above properties of metallic.

Moreover, applying a simple masonry using a special material and a simple building brick, we immediately improve several important indicators:

• Running several times the heat transfer of the furnace.
• Reduced temperature fluctuations in rooms.
• I will increase the safety of the furnace, now it will be noticeable even to it.
• Improve the design of the firebox itself and the entire room immediately.

And the most important thing is to set down the heating equipment you can independently!

Preparation

Before throwing onto a cast-iron oven and put it with bricks, we need to carry out a minimum of several work on the preparation for the masonry itself.

First of all, you need to arrange a good, powerful base for the oven. If we are talking about cottage house, Ban, where there is no, for example, a solid foundation, you will have to dismantle the equipment and arrange a fortified foundation, because the weight of the brick furnace is large enough.

It does not matter here, the furnace brick or cast iron will be, the design still involves a powerful base.

Foundation

We can use two types of base under the furnace:

• Foundation in the form of columns, the so-called "column".
• Simple, ordinary foundation.

The first option is associated with complex preparatory work and accurate calculations, so we will focus on the second version, and the foul is simply a concrete base that will be perfectly answering our requirements for installing the furnace.

We will need:

• Cement, brand 300, durable.
• Sand.
• Crushed the middle fraction.
• Armature.

We dismantle the part of the floor, and dig a hole in a depth at the level 30-40 cm, and install several pieces of sliced \u200b\u200bfittings into it.

Tip! Armature in such a simple and small foundation is not particularly needed, but we still recommend it. It remedies and binds concrete, increasing its service life.

The solution is done in the ratio of 1 to 2, and we try to be liquid and flooded the entire pit. As soon as concrete dries, lay out 1-2 rows of solid brickwork, you can use a double silicate brick M 150 or - it will be our base.

Marking and fire safety

Naturally, before starting work, we will need carefully and accurate laying. It is important here to note that between the surface of the metal and the wall that we are going to lay out of the brick must be a lumen at least 10 cm.

There are nuances in the distance. A small lumen will allow the masonry to quickly warm up, but decreases the life of a cast-iron furnace, and too much distance, on the contrary, increases the time of laying time.

And naturally, during the cast-iron, and with any, it is worth controlling the moment of fire safety. If the furnace is on the wooden floor, we will place a sheet of metal on it, and put asbestos cardboard on top.

Preparation of solution

Before you make a cast-iron furnace with bricks, we will need to explore the solution of the solution. It does not fit simple and familiar to everyone cement mortar, and a special clay with an admixture of sand.

Tip! Mountain sand is sifted, so that neither stones or garbage remains in it. Such a technique will make it thin, which will affect the appearance of the masonry.

To find the perfect component of the solution, we will carry out several experiments with clay and sand, making several types of solution with different proportions. As soon as we bring them to the state of plasticine, we deploy them small "cakes" and let them dry.

Two weeks later, when our samples are completely dried, throw them from the height of one meter on a solid surface. That sample that when hitting does not scatter and is an example of the proportion of sand and clay.

Such an instruction for preparing the solution is necessary because there are no certain relations, it all depends on the composition of sand and clay.

Now the clay is falling asleep into the container for the solution and leave for several days, then pour water gradually and mix it to the state of plasticine.

We begin the masonry

Now that we have a solution in the desired proportion of sand and clay, we can proceed directly to the laying.

Our cast-iron furnace should be located at least half a meter from wooden wallsIf the walls are made of bricks, this rule can be ignored.

Masonry should only be made by special bricks, qualitative materialwhich is designed to work with the furnace.

The main types of hollow or silicate bricks are precisely suitable for laying metal heating equipment, due to the low warmersion of the material, and the temperature in the rooms will not be sufficiently comfortable.

In this case, the chimney brick price should not embarrass us, otherwise we will simply work in vain.

The first fitting row is laying out without a solution. It is necessary in order to fit bricks and trace how tightly they fit to each other.

Important! The cast-iron oven is placed in Polkirpich. This wall thickness is most optimal, and meets all the necessary requirements for the heating of the room.

Starting a masonry, be sure to leave in the first row at least two holes for the half clicha for additional ventilation, and besides, it will increase the heat transfer to the room.

To correctly understand how to lay a cast-iron furnace brick, you need to learn a simple and at the same time, the main rule - the masonry begins with the corners!

The first row starting with one-piece brick, the second is starting with a brick in three quarters, and according to such a scheme, we work throughout the masonry.

To work, we will need:

• Construction workman.
• "Bulgarian", we will cut the brick, smoothly and without chips.
• Roulette.
• Tips with weight.
• Level.

Each row of masonry is required to check the level along the horizontal plane, and the plunder is vertical.

Before applying a solution, wetting a brick in water, it always gives the clutch of the solution with a material of greater strength. Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the seams between the bricks are fully filled. Surplus the solution we immediately delete.

All elements in the form of accessories are mounted during masonry. It is also important to clarify, performing the masonry with your own hands, we must begin the next row, only after fully the previous one. This will allow you to not work in two smooth planes and not to give the wall to shifts.

End of work

By bringing the wall to the desired height, we can cover it with a metal sheet and from above asbestos sheet, or a glass chamber. It will also increase the heat transfer.

Masonry trim can be any, ranging from simple painting, and ending with decorative tiles.

Output

Work on masonry brick with a cast-iron stove requires care and compliance with technological requirements, but its result exceeds all expectations, and the level of comfort in the room immediately becomes an order of magnitude higher. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

Construction Materials

How to put a brick iron oven - create home

From the author: Hello, dear readers! Fireplace or oven is a practical and beautiful source of heat. But what can be done if there is not enough space for the overall structure - is it really possible to refuse? In no case, an excellent analogue will be a metal furnace covered with brick - this design is compact, inexpensive and easy to install yourself!

Today we will talk about how to set up a brick iron oven, not referring to the help of masters and take into account all the rules of fire safety, as well as the laws of maintaining a valuable heat for the house.

Why plan the furnace brick

And yet, why make yourself create additional problems and plan a metal furnace brick? The answer is simple enough: thanks to the edge, you will reduce heat loss as much as possible, extend the heating time several times and secure the room from ignition, and yourself - from burns associated with a random contact with a hot furnace case. In addition, the indisputable advantages of metal furnaces in their compactness, ease of installation with their own hands and quick heating.

We can not voice the minuses. Metal has not only high heat capacity and the ability to quickly warm the housing, but also cools up as quickly, therefore, to maintain a comfortable temperature in the house, constant burning of fuel will be required.

The brick has another amazing feature - it independently controls the level of humidity in the room, which is relevant for installation. A brick "shirt" around the metal furnace will evaporate an extra moisture during heating, giving it air, and when cooled, absorbs excessive pairs from the room. As a result, the microclimate with such a stove will not only be comfortable, but also more useful for the body.

How to choose a brick for work

For oblast iron furnace Not every kind of brick is suitable, so immediately need to make a bet on refractory and specifications material.

Types of bricks for plating oven design:

• silicate and ceramic - suitable only for facing works;
• clay - applied to clap body wood stove, styling chimney, pipes, fireboxes.
• chamotal (refractory) - masonry from this type of brick is suitable for facing coal furnaces and is able to withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees.

In addition, it is important to draw attention to the brand of bricks and specifications: compression force, strength indicators. Optimal option For cladding iron furnace - M250 brick brand!

Important: appearance Brick also plays great importance: The working surface must be crawled for better adhesion, and the front sides are smooth and without defects. Please note that if the core is uneven color, there are dark spots, then the brick is made with a violation of technology!

For surface decor, materials can be used with various textures and shades imitating stone and brick.

How to determine the consumption of bricks to cover the furnace? The calculation of the material is carried out on the basis of:

• stove size;
• location of the heating construction in the house;
• the method of laying (in a wide and narrow side of the brick, one or two rows).

Additional materials and tools

In addition to bricks, you will need a number of additional materials that will strengthen the furnace construction and foundation of the base:

• metal corners;
• reinforcement grid - masonry reinforcement will help increase the weak base of the furnace;
• ruberoid - used for the foundation of the stove as and refractory material.

For the folding, the following tools will be required: Drill with a mixer for a solution, level, plumb, a trowel, a wooden hammer, a suitable bucket, spit, coil for the seams.

Furnace Masonry Solution

One of the most important stages in cladding and masonry of bricks is a special solution. There are several options for its preparation that can cope with sharp drops of temperature, it will endure heavy heat and help keep heat as long as possible.

Solution composition options:

• refractory clay + cement;
• cement + glue for porcelain stoneware;
• clay + sand;
• ready refractory chimney based on red clay.

If you delve into the advice of experienced cooks, you can see other formulations that have the right to exist. Consider for example two of them.

Composition number 1.

The first composition is rather rich in the ingredients, you will need not only sand and clay in the ratio of 1: 1, but also 100 g of the dining salt on the bucket of the mixture. For maximum effect, it is recommended to add adhesive for porcelain stoneware or chamotte clay. This composition is not advised to knead immediately in large quantities, as it quickly freezes and becomes unsuitable for work!

Composition number 2.

The second option is the easiest of the composition, there is only sand and clay, but it will take time to prepare a high-quality mixture and knowledge of technology. We will focus in detail on the nuances of the preparation of the solution, according to the recommendations of experienced specialists.

First of all, make a bet on the purchase of small mountain sand, it is he who has the highest heat-resistant characteristics. Before use, skip it through a sieve with 1.5 mm cells, cleaning sand from pollution and small stones.

Important: The smaller the sand, the one will be stronger and thinner the seams between the bricks during the masonry.

The masters believe that it will be problematic to determine the ratio of the components of the novice, since the fat content of clay may affect the consistency of the solution. Therefore, before use, we advise you to conduct mini experience.

Prepare 5 pieces of liter cans with plaster, after passing it through a sieve, clearing with lumps and pollution. In the first jar to the clay, do not add any ingredients, in the second - pour sand in the 1:10 ratio, to the third - ¼ of the sand, you need to add to the fourth to clay, and in the fifth sand and clay should be in the 1: 1 ratio.

We mix the plasticine consistency with water and make small lumps with a diameter of up to 7 cm and small pancakes with a thickness of 3-5 mm. After thorough drying, it will be necessary to two weeks maximum, throw the prepared options for a solid surface from a height of 1 meter, but not with all the power. This option will be suitable for the fall and remains as much.

When you were determined with the optimal proportion, you can proceed to the kneading mortar. In a large capacity, connect all the ingredients with water and leave for three days for "maturation", do not forget to periodically mix the solution.

Please note that the mixture should be without lumps and freely go from the trowel! It is possible to check for readiness as follows: Apply the solution on the brick and attach to the masonry, after 5 minutes it must hold hard.

Formation of the foundation and stove label

Regardless of the fact that you will equip the oven - in the bath, in the country or house - it is important to initially choose the place to install iron construction And prepare the basis for it and walls. Consider when it calculates that the brick shirt of the furnace will have to be located on the wall at 20-50 cm.

It should be noted that the metal stove itself weighs relatively a bit, but the lining of the brick will significantly take it and create a load on. Therefore, we advise you to consider the installation of the foundation: monolithic or columnar.

Monolithic foundation

To install a monolithic foundation, you will need to disassemble the floor under the oven with the calculation, which, in addition to the metal case, the brick facing should fit there. Usually to the size of the stove is added to 15 cm from each edge.

Note that the monolithic foundation most of all is in demand for its functionality. We will analyze the sequence of the foundation for the furnace.

1. Drop a hole of 30-50 cm and put on the bottom of crushed stone and sand (some recommend adding a broken brick or stones), thoroughly confuse.
2. Fill the surface with sand cement with sand and add a little small rubble. During the fill, install the reinforcement grid.
3. After the cement surface surfaches, the runneroid is laid and stacked in two rows of brick.

On the full and high-quality maintenance of the foundation you will leave up to two weeks!

Foundation columnal

If you do a monolithic foundation, you do not allow the characteristics, then you can place the metal case on the supports. The ease of installation of this furnace is that you will not need to do drainage and waterproofing, and the poles are installed only at the main points of the high load.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a column foundation.

1. Think over the place and pre-mark the places where the furnace supports will be installed.
2. Disassemble the floor at pre-marked places and trying strictly vertical pits to 50 cm deep.
3. At the bottom of the holes, pour 10 cm sand and thoroughly confuse.
4. On the rammed layer, fill the cement-sandy solution 1: 2, and pour 10 cm for the same solution with the addition of rubbet. Wait full hardening.
5. Start the layout of supports from bricks. The pillar's height should rise above the floor by 5-10 cm. In addition, you can use the finished concrete pillars.
6. Install or weld a chapeller and metal corners for fixing a metal furnace.

After 10-14 days, it is possible to start the iron furnace with brick. During this time, it is recommended to prepare the room and walls, the design will be located. If the walls of the room are made of flammable materials or wood, it is required to protect them with sheets of tin or separated by asbestos-cement sheets.

Bricklaying

How best to put the iron oven yourself without resorting to the help of workers? Consider in detail the technological stages of the plated.

1. The standard width of the furnace cladding goes to the floor of the brick. Conducting the laying of the first layer, make frooms from the outer side of the furnace housing to the inside, they should not exceed 10 cm, the minimum distance is 5 cm.
2. Laying the brick is made in a checker order. Before masonry, you need to soak the brick for better adhesion and only then, on a wet surface, a clay solution is applied.
3. For dense adjustment, it is recommended to catch up with a wooden hammer the outside of the brick.
4. You can increase the rigidity of the structure using the reinforcing grid. It is laid out tightly over each row, and when the corners passes, you can additionally pull the mesh with a soft steel wire. Try to avoid exiting the edge of the masonry.
5. Do not postpone the "For later" the sputs of the seams, along the output of the row, maintain them with clay mortar.

Important: The mandatory point in the masonry around the iron furnace is to create an unhindered air circulation using airlows and avoid overheating design. One of simple ways: Put one of the bricks in the masonry not along, but across. On each side, you must have two at the top and two at the bottom of the "exit", through the upper will circulate the heated air, and through the bottom - cold.

A couple of years ago, I built a small Russian bathhouse on my site. As a heating element installed the simplest - iron furnace (I have a sugar 16). The stove warms almost instantly, so it is possible to bathe after half an hour. Only heating this uneven: then a slightly warm air goes from the stove, then the ribbon-hot. And I want comfort and soft, deep heat. By the way, with a wet steam and heating stones, too, tens! The stove has already fascinated, and the stones are not. Accordingly, when you pour water on the stones, there is no particular steam, you have to wait for the heating of the stones and sometimes for a long time. Yes, you need to change something. After reading the information on the topic and making your own conclusions, I decided to set off my "sugar" brick. According to the connoisseurs of a bath case, it was supposed to solve all my problems. And I did it! I will try to tell everyone to be understood.

Choosing brick and masonry solution

To cover the metal stove, it is not an ordinary building brick, but a complete refractory (oven). I just bought a red, without any problems, although there were interesting specimens on the market with a textured surface - they are more expensive for decorative purposes just right. In general, I decided not to move away from the planned estimate and did not express the construction - I took the usual flat brick (although sometimes I regret!).

For a masonry solution, I applied a cement solution with the addition of a small amount of chamotte clay (some wizards are used for this, mixed on clay and sand or mixed cement mortise for porcelain printing - you can use such options for bonding compositions).

Laying brick rows

Brick rows I put in the Pollipich in a chess order - this is enough for a normal heat exchange. In principle, when a brick deficiency, you can try to lay the brick on the edge, but then the protective screen will be thinner and, accordingly, all its positive properties will be reduced. In general, if you want to do everything around the mind, then post the screen in the Pollipich - do not save.

Read more about how to put the brick and make perfect seams, you can read in the article

It is important to observe the correct distance between the brick masonry and the furnace metal screen. In various information sources, it is recommended to leave a gap from 1 to 10 cm. Here is the meaning of this: too small distance (up to 1 cm) can lead to excessive influenza of the metal screens of the furnace and, accordingly, to a decrease in its "life", and with a large distance bricks will be Too warm too much. I left a gap of 5 cm - and did not regret it!

When you lay bricks, it is desirable to pre-pump in water each of them to enhance the clutch of the solution with a brick surface. Suts immediately pushe the same solution.

The photos show that the laying is not solid, but with ventilation holes so that the air normally circulates between the brick masonry and the stove metal. To do this, in places of future "winds" brick is not as usual as usual, but the end forward. This turns out two improvised holes in each "window". On each side of my stove, two such "windows" (4 holes - in the photo it is clearly visible) - from below.

Through each row, I laid on bricks sliced \u200b\u200balong the reinforcement grid - for strength. This is done for reinsurance, therefore, in principle, use the mesh is optional.

Cleaning masonry from solution

After laying all bricks, the masonry dries about a day, so in a day I began to clean my new stove from the spots of the solution. In fact, it is not so difficult, as it seems at first glance, especially if you have a drill with a brush nozzle. I used it for cleansing it and half an hour brickwork was cleaned. The brush leaves dark spots on bricks, so to remove them and it is desirable to wash the stove with a rigid wool brush moistened in soapy water. After that, the stove shines the pristine cleanness - that's how I have in the photo!

If you are interested to learn how to clean the brick from white clutch, we advise you to get acquainted with the article

Benefits of brick "casing"

Now, after the new oven has already been tested in action, I want to say that in vain I did not make a brick "casing" before. What are the advantages of this solution? And let's consider:

1. The heat from the furnace comes uniform, because at first brick accumulates heat, and then emits it. The burning heat disappeared, so at any point of the steam, only pleasant (sometimes strong, but still pleasant!) Heat.
2. Stones warm up faster and more efficient, so wet steam in sufficient quantity is provided.
3. The heat, accumulated by bricks, is preserved longer, therefore, the prototure is a good bath, I can steam there for several hours in a row, while not worrying about the need to increase the temperature.
4. The stove becomes more secure. The iron hotbed is a rather unpleasant thing, if it accidentally touch it, so the brick layer acts as a protective flap from excess heat and random injury.

The only thing to heat the iron furnace in the brick framing was longer. However, to be honest, it is not particularly noticeable. During the firebox, you can always go on your affairs and then time flies unnoticed. And when the Balke is Natoplen, you can completely relax - you don't need to do anything else, it will be great for the end of the bath procedures.

Alexander S. (Banchika-amateur with experience)