There are many ways to finish walls, but most of them require an even and straight base, but in reality everything turns out to be not so smooth. Walls modern houses and even more so buildings old building only seem to be flat, but are not suitable for cladding with tiles, laminate or panels, since they have horizontal or vertical differences that are invisible to the eye. In this article we will tell you how to properly level the walls for finishing with any materials.

Any renovation begins with preparation, and leveling the walls is no exception. In this case, first of all, it is necessary to determine the degree of unevenness of the surface in order to know the best way to level the walls and how much materials will be needed.

How to determine the degree of curvature of a wall:

1. Arm yourself with a long building rule 2-2.5 m long. Drive a nail into the corner of the room closer to the ceiling, leaving the cap sticking out 2-3 mm (so that a lace can be tied behind the nail). This nail is your starting beacon.
2. Tie a nut or any other weight to a string or strong thread and hang it by the nail so that the weight does not touch the floor. Wait for it to stop wobbling and the thread forms a straight line.
3. Drive in the second lighthouse nail at the bottom of the wall and drive it in just enough so that the head and thread are on the same level.
4. Repeat this procedure with a different angle on the opposite wall. As a result, you will get 4 beacons around the perimeter and 2 straight lines, respectively.
5. Take a long string or cord and pull it between the top nail on one side of the wall and the bottom nail on the other (diagonally). Repeat with a second pair of beacons. When you fasten the threads crosswise, make sure that they do not touch the surface of the wall.
6. Now, with the help of these threads stretched over four points, you can determine the state of any wall in the room.

Choosing the alignment method

Leveling with dry mixes

To level the walls with plaster, as practice shows, is the most versatile option, relevant for any finishing material, be it wallpaper or tile... Despite the high labor intensity of working with mixtures, you get a better and more durable result.

How to level the walls with putty:

Helpful Hint: When choosing a dry mix, pay attention to the thickness of the layer, as well as the nature of the binding component. For example, it is recommended to take gypsum mortars for rooms with a low or normal degree of humidity, since in a kitchen or bathroom such walls will quickly become damp and cracked. For wet rooms, choose a mineral-based mixture. Cement plaster can be prepared with your own hands by mixing 1 part of cement of a brand of at least 400 with 6 parts of sifted fine sand and diluting everything with water to a creamy state. You can vary the amount of sand in order to get different plasticity of the solution - the less sand, the more plastic the solution, and it is easier to work with it (but then you will need more cement, which means that repair costs will increase). Attention! It is necessary to use the ready-made solution in 1-2 hours, otherwise it will harden or lose its properties, so do not mix large volumes at once.

Plasterboard leveling

It is much easier to level the walls with plasterboard than with dry building mixtures. This job is much cleaner, faster, and more suitable for novice builders. A wide range of gypsum boards allows you to work in almost any room, even with a high level of humidity. In addition, drywall allows you to align walls with strong differences in height and horizontal, which would require an overly thick layer of plaster. And although this method is relevant for wallpaper or paint decoration, in some cases this is the only way to get even and smooth walls.

There are two ways to install the gypsum board for leveling the walls: on the frame and on the glue. The first method is suitable for surfaces with severe drops and helps to level wooden walls, the second can hide minor surface defects and get a perfectly flat base for finishing. It is also permissible to combine these two options in order to achieve a neat joining of the walls and ceiling. The wireframe method is the most common, so we will look at it first and in all details.

For the manufacture of the frame, a special metal profile is used under the gypsum board. Fixation is carried out by means of self-tapping screws and screws. Before telling the instructions on how to level the walls under wallpaper or tiles, one should mention one nuance of the frame method - due to the large thickness of the resulting cladding, several centimeters of the usable wall area on each side (about 4-5 cm) leave. And if in a spacious room it may not be noticeable, then for small rooms it is better to use a different method.

Instructions and video on how to properly level the walls:

1. Remove the old wall covering and sand the surface.
2. In this case, priming is necessary not to increase adhesion, but to strengthen and protect the walls from moisture and fungus. If you sheathe outer wall or a wall in a damp room, treat it with an antiseptic.
3. Build a frame from a galvanized profile by first mounting the UD profile on the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls to create a frame. Then, inside this frame, jumpers can be fixed from a thinner CD profile, which will hold the plasterboard sheets. In more detail, all the subtleties of the fastening process are described in the article "".
4. When the frame is ready, you can start installing the gypsum board, but before that you need to measure, draw and number them so that they clearly fit into the given area. GKL is convenient in that it can be easily processed at home with improvised tools. In the article "" everything is described in detail.
5. Use a self-adhesive mesh to seal the seams between drywall sheets. Apply it to the seams and then cover with starter putty to bring it flush with the surface. The subsequent treatment of the wall depends on the selected cladding. If you will be laying tiles or other dense, non-translucent material, you can simply cover the joints with putty and that's it. But before painting or gluing wallpaper, the wall should be completely covered with a white finishing putty with a layer of 1-2 mm, sanded and primed. The article "" says a lot of useful information on this topic.

Now you know how you can level the walls with tiles, wallpaper or any other finish. We hope this article will help you quickly and efficiently make repairs with your own hands. Finally, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with one more useful video how to level the walls with plasterboard:

When erecting building bodies, builders often fail to perfectly maintain the basic geometric shapes of the object being created. Therefore, there are minor defects in the supporting structures of the walls, ceiling, which do not affect the strength characteristics of the house and the safety of people living, but worsen the visual perception of the interior of the premises.

Such shortcomings need to be corrected. Experienced builder Dmitry Vladimirovich Chernov shares his practical experience in this matter. His real-life advice is meant to help home master choose one of the recommended ways to effectively level the walls with your own hands when performing repairs in an apartment.

Technological sequence of repair work

Any unevenness and roughness of surfaces cannot be ignored. They immediately catch the eye, significantly degrade the design of the room. Therefore, the walls of the apartment must be perfectly flat. Only in this case the paint will fit well on them or the wallpaper will reliably stick.

There is a generally accepted algorithm for apartment renovation:

• leveling the floor in the room;
• marking and preparation of the wall surface;
• installation of internal communications: electrical wires with switching devices (sockets, switches, junction boxes), water and heating pipes, ventilation ducts and other building systems;
• plastering of door and window openings;
• direct alignment of the walls.

Depending on the specific surface condition, one of two methods can be selected:

1. plaster - leveling the surface with adhesive mortars;
2. plasterboard coating - installation of gypsum board sheets on the walls to ensure a uniform wall plane.

They differ from each other in the materials used, cost and time spent on repairs.

To choose any of these construction methods, you will need to be clear on two questions:

1. how much the real wall deviates from the ideal vertical plane:
2. how to ensure electrical safety during repair work.

Electric current, and even an ordinary household tool, carry the risks of various injuries. Necessary This requirement becomes especially relevant when working in rooms with electrical equipment and live wiring. It is best to turn it off.

Leveling the surface of the walls with plaster solutions

This method should be used when the deviation error of the building wall from the vertical does not exceed four to six centimeters. The work is carried out in several stages.

Preparatory stage

Before applying a layer of putty, you will need:

• clean the wall surface from old putty, wallpaper, mold and other dirt;
• impregnate the wall material with special primer solutions that will degrease the surface and will work as an antifungal protection.

Installation of plaster beacons

This is the simplest and most reliable way that will allow a home craftsman to do the job of high quality with basic practical skills.

Beacons are specially prepared planes or profiles located in the vertical direction, along which the surface is leveled. They can be created by:

The first method requires good skills in working with building mixes and mortars for plastering.

The second method is a little easier to implement. Let's take a closer look at it.

When placing lighthouses strictly vertically, use a building level or a plumb line. They are fastened along the edges of the wall with plaster or alabaster mortar.

However, dowel screws can be used to provide a more robust building structure. You will have to install them.

When the extreme landmarks are installed, then between them stretch the construction line in 3 ÷ 4 rows. The remaining beacons are mounted along it with a step of 0.5 ÷ 1 m, leveling them with the help of stretched rows of fishing line. Light cord contact with the reference surface provides an even vertical plane.

If there are bulges in the middle of the wall, then the first lighthouse must be attached to the largest ledge, and from it guide landmarks in both sides of the wall along the extreme points and stretched line. All surfaces must be located strictly in the same vertical plane.

When it is planned to install hidden wiring and pipelines, it is necessary to mark the locations electrical outlets, boxes and switches, routes of passage of pipelines and cables. Beacons can be used to secure electrical wiring and switching devices.

If the thickness of the putty turns out to be insufficient for its installation, about 1 ÷ 2 cm, then it will be necessary to grind the wall in order to reliably hide the wiring.

Applying a primer layer of putty

Preparation of the composition

To create the soil, it is necessary to prepare a mixture consisting of a binder (cement, gypsum, alabaster) and an aggregate (sand or chalk). The solution is prepared in the ratio:

1. one portion of the binder;
2. three servings of filler.

There are ready-made mixtures of industrial production. They can be purchased commercially and simply diluted with water according to the instructions. It is convenient to stir the composition in a construction bucket.

When the solution is prepared, PVA glue can be added to it. It will give an additional increase in the viscosity of the solution.

By designation, plaster mixes are divided into three groups:

1. simple formulations used without special finishing. They are applied in two layers;
2. improved mixtures intended for covering under wallpaper. Created in three layers - sprinkling, priming and covering;
3. high quality plasters used for walls to be painted.

According to the structure of the incoming components, plaster is:

1. wet - based on cement-containing mixtures;
2. dry - with a base of gypsum or lime components.

For priming the walls, it is necessary to apply plaster mixtures with minimum thickness layer. Excessive volume of the solution leads to cracking of the drying surface. The wall material affects the volume of the layer.

Brick

Its surface has a characteristic relief, and a mortar layer less than 5 mm is very difficult to level. Its thickness can be increased to five cm, but for this you have to lay a reinforced mesh. Without it, you can create a layer up to 2.5 centimeters.

Concrete

It has excellent adhesion to all finishing solutions and a well-leveled surface. A layer of plaster can be laid from two millimeters to seven centimeters. Reinforced mesh must be used from 2 cm.

Aerated concrete

Concrete-like structure. A layer of plaster is applied from two to 15 mm.

Wooden surfaces

Plaster does not apply to wood in the usual way. Reinforcement from a metal or plastic mesh with cells up to 40 mm is required. They are fastened with self-tapping screws or glue.

The plaster solution is applied in two layers:

1. hide the grid for the first time:
2. in the second, the created surface is leveled.

Insulation materials

Plastering is the same as for wood surfaces. The layer of coating with a solution as a heater is no different from the method of coating

Solution application technology

Plastering is carried out in several sequential stages that solve specific problems:

• splatter or a preliminary layer that ensures adhesion of the plaster mixture to the wall material. For it, a liquid composition is used, which is thrown onto the surface to be treated in order to create irregularities. On brick, concrete and aerated concrete blocks, 5 mm are thrown, and for wood - 9 on a reinforcing mesh;
• priming is the main layer. It is applied by spraying after the start of setting, but incomplete solidification. The thick consistency of the mortar is poured onto the wall surface and at the same time leveled with a spatula. The process is repeated until the wall is completely aligned;
• cover or a final coating to smooth out remaining defects and inaccuracies. In order for this layer to perform its functions, the thickness of its fractions must be up to 2 mm, and the spatula is used with a wide blade. They are pressed tightly with the solution and evenly leveled, making circular movements;
• grout finishing plastering.

It is convenient to apply and level the primer along the beacons. It is simply thrown over the entire surface between them, and then immediately smoothed out with a wide and long aluminum rail moving along the surface of the lighthouses with oscillatory movements from bottom to top.

The composition of the solution must be selected according to the operating conditions. Plaster or alabaster base works well for living rooms, and indoors with high humidity, it is better to use a mortar from a cement component.

Dry chalk mixtures can be added to the alabaster solution in the ratio: 1 portion of alabaster to 1 portion of the mixture. This will give more elasticity and strength, and also prevent the mortar from drying out quickly.

For additional tips on working with plaster solutions, we recommend watching in the video of the Izolux owner "Plastering the walls".

There are a lot of useful tips on the use and preparation of various building mixtures.

Plasterboard wall alignment

This work can be done in two ways:

1. fastening sheets directly to the wall;
2. creating a mounting frame.

Both methods have already been discussed in the article on apartment renovation and

Frameless technology

This method involves gluing each sheet of drywall using mounting glue or its analogs. It is convenient to purchase them in the store and prepare according to the attached instructions.

You can also make a DIY glue mix:

• we take alabaster;
• add PVA glue to it, observing the proportion: for 1 kg of mineral - 100 ÷ 150 grams of glue;
• dilute with water and stir until jelly.

This mixture dries quickly, so it is necessary to work not only quickly, but to prepare the solution in small portions.

You can apply a layer of the finished mixture:

1. pointwise;
2. stripes.

Point method

The finished mixture, small cakes with a diameter of 10 ÷ 12 cm and a height of 3 ÷ 5, are applied to the surface of drywall, placing parallel stripes with a distance of 0.3 ÷ 0.4 m between themselves.

The prepared sheet is applied with flat cakes to the wall and lightly tapping a rubber hammer to align its position vertically relative to the wall.

The blows are applied only to those places where there are cakes, and to protect the fragile gypsum board base, they put a small piece of wooden board or plywood under the hammer.

Sticking sheets in strips

A strip of glue is applied to the surface of the wall or drywall. Then the sheet is glued and aligned in the vertical plane, as in the first case. With this method, good anchorage is created, but the consumption of mortar increases.

It is recommended to glue composite sheets of drywall from top to bottom. This allows you to make sure that they are securely attached to the wall.

Fastening drywall to the frame

This method is called dry wall leveling. It is performed by installing plasterboard sheets. For installation, you will need to create a crate from a metal profile.

The standard width of the gypsum board sheet is 120 cm.Knowing this size, it is convenient to calculate the area by the height of the room, which is for:

• 200 cm - 2.4 sq m;
• 250 cm - 3 sq m;
• 300 cm - 3.6 sq m.

This method allows you to quickly estimate material consumption in your mind, plan the progress of work.

The installation procedure for the vertical profile is, in principle, similar to the installation method for plaster beacons described above.

It is important to strictly observe the exact distance of 60 cm between the centers of each profile. This is necessary for screwing in self-tapping screws along the edges and in the middle of the gypsum board sheet.

Profiles are mounted using screws and plastic plugs- dowels. For a more durable structure of the lathing, it is recommended to install cross-members with a height of 50 cm.If the height of the sheet is not enough to fill the wall, then it is necessary to mount additional cross-members of the required size

Plasterboard sheets are installed on the finished crate with self-tapping screws. Screws are screwed along their edges every 10 ÷ 15 centimeters, and in the center the distance can be increased to 25 ÷ 30 cm. All screw heads must be sunk into the surface of the drywall.

If necessary, the sheathed wall can be insulated and soundproofed. For this, use the appropriate building materials.

After fixing the drywall, its surface is treated with a finishing putty. It will reliably hide the mount and all joints between the sheets.

Additional tips can be found in the Stone Guys video "How to make a drywall frame" with your own hands.

As you know, a good and high-quality repair of any room is impossible without leveling the walls. The most expensive and modern finishing materials will look awkward on curved walls. Conversely, even the simplest finish will look respectable and expensive on flawlessly even and smooth panels.

The methods of leveling the walls themselves are different in their specifics and depend on the initial state of the wall, its type and degree of curvature.

To determine which alignment methods are necessary in a particular case, it is necessary to find out the degree of unevenness of the wall. To do this, you need to take a rule or a level with a length of 2-2.5 meters. Apply it vertically to the wall, starting from the corner and mark the points of contact of the level with the wall. Perform the same operation horizontally from floor to ceiling. This is how the most convex sections of the wall are marked.

Then a level is applied to these points and the depth of the gap is measured. With a gap depth of more than 10-15 mm, it will be more expedient to use drywall. If this figure is less, then you can use traditional plaster.

To apply the plaster mixture on the walls, it is necessary to prepare: personal protective equipment, a container for mortar, a mixer, a 40x40 cm grater, a felt grater, a 70x10 cm half-grater, a spatula, sandpaper of different grain size, a level, a drill, a roller, a brush. You will also need the following materials: gypsum plaster, finishing putty, acrylic primer, concrete contact, 6 mm beacon profile.

Leveling walls with plaster mortar

Before starting work, make sure that there is no wall hidden wiring... If there are cracks on the wall, then they should be embroidered with a narrow trowel. Fight off the old plaster that is falling off. Clean walls from old wallpaper, dust and dirt. Prime with concrete contact for better adhesion of the plaster to the wall. Concrete contact is applied with a short-pile roller, and in places inaccessible to the roller - with a brush. Next, install the beacons.

A plaster strip is laid out at the installation site of the beacon, into which it is pressed. Verticality is checked by level. Beacons are first installed on opposite sides of the wall. Then you need to pull the cord in 3 places: at the top of the profile, below and in the middle. After that, you can install intermediate beacons so that their crest touches the cord. The distance between them is determined by the length of the tool with which the plaster will be applied.

Pour a certain amount of plaster into a container with water. Stir with a drill with a mixing nozzle and let the solution stand for 5 minutes. Stir again. For application of a layer less than 15 mm, the mortar should have a medium viscosity. Using a trowel, apply the solution to a trowel or wide spatula. And already with a spatula, level the mixture on the wall between the beacons. Thus, apply the plaster to all parts of the wall.

If it is required to apply plaster with a layer of more than 15 mm, then the application of the solution must be carried out in several layers. Moreover, the initial layer must be liquid. They need to spray the wall and, without leveling, let it dry. This is done for better adhesion of the layers. When this layer dries, it is necessary to apply another, thicker layer and smooth with a scraper. Before applying the next coat, prime the previous coat. For maximum smoothness of the walls, you can use a finishing putty. It is applied in a thin layer over the entire wall surface. After drying, the putty is cleaned with emery paper or felt float. In rooms with high humidity, cement plaster is used instead of gypsum plaster.

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How to properly glue the gypsum board on the wall?

Methods for leveling the walls with plasterboard on glue: a - on the frame, b - by the backing method.

It is possible to glue the walls with plasterboard only in cases where the unevenness of the walls does not exceed 2 cm.In order to level the surface of the walls with plasterboard, it is necessary to purchase the following materials:

• GKL 12.5 mm;
• drywall glue;
• adhesive reinforcing tape (serpyanka);
• sandpaper;
• putty;
• acrylic primer.

And you will also need such tools: a knife for cutting drywall, a trowel, a level, a narrow spatula, a roller, a container for diluting the glue and a drill with a nozzle for stirring it.

First, you need to clean the walls from peeling plaster. Then apply an acrylic primer to the surface with a roller. Prepare an adhesive solution and stir it well with a mixer. Apply glue to the sheet with a trowel in small cakes at a distance of 40 cm. Determine with a level where a larger volume of glue is required. When gluing the sheet, the adhesive spreads and fills all the space between the wall and drywall. Next, you need to align the sheet with a level. Each next sheet is glued in the same way.

Then it is necessary to seal the joints between the sheets. To do this, you need to stick a serpentine on the joints, evenly apply the putty with a spatula and, after it dries, process the joints with sandpaper. If the height of the room exceeds the length of the GKL sheet, which is 2.5 m, then you will need to paste over the remaining space with pieces of drywall cut to size in a checkerboard pattern.

From the author: welcome to you, dear reader. We are glad that you have decided to visit our repair and construction portal. On our site there are articles describing the process of preparing a surface for painting. Today we will talk about another topic that can be considered related. We will learn how to align the walls under the wallpaper in an apartment or a private house with our own hands.

In new buildings, there is often no need to level the walls - they are already in proper form, but in old houses the degree of evenness of the walls clearly leaves much to be desired. A wall repair strategy should be determined based on the solution of several important issues.

Firstly, whether we need a perfectly flat surface (with a degree of unevenness no more than 2 mm per 2 m²), or will it be enough only "superficial", so to speak, visual evenness.

Secondly, do we need strictly straight lines - at 90 ° angles. The fact is that if you plan to install large-sized furniture, so to speak, on an entire wall, for example, a wardrobe, then the corners should be straight, and the walls should be strictly vertical, that is, in relation to the floor, they should be strictly at 90 °. Otherwise, after installing such furniture, even those flaws that were not visible to the naked eye will be noticeable.

So, we already roughly understand what result we would like to see after the end of the work. Now it's time to get down to action. To begin with, we take a two-meter building level and with its help we determine how smooth our walls are.

You also need to measure the two diagonals of the room. If they are equal, then great. If not, then the geometry is clearly violated. The permissible degree of inequality of the two diagonals is up to 12 mm. If in your case this indicator is not exceeded, then we can only congratulate you: the alignment work is not so global.

Wall alignment methods

In this section of the article, we will name the main ways of leveling walls, and also consider what they are, so that you have the opportunity to choose the most suitable one for yourself. Naturally, without practical advice Nobody will leave you, therefore, after reading the text materials, you can already go to the store and purchase already building materials for work.

Putty

Here we will not advertise any of the firms that produce putty mixtures, since the article is not advertising. We only note that the building materials market does not limit the consumer's choice: you can buy anything, as they say, for every taste, color and wallet. But truly high-quality products cannot be too cheap. For building materials this truth is quite true.

But before you putty the walls, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work... Here's how to prepare the surface for puttying:

• remove remnants of old wallpaper and pieces of loose plaster, if any. In a word, it is necessary to make sure that nothing interferes with further work with a spatula;
• treat the wall with an antifungal compound (antiseptic). This is especially true if it is possible indoors high humidity, as this provokes the formation of fungal colonies, which not only release spores harmful to health into the air, but also gradually destroy the walls, literally "eating" them;
• treat the wall with a penetrating primer. This is also a very important stage that cannot be ignored. The primer improves the adhesion of finishing materials to the wall surface and prevents its premature destruction.

Now we turn to the preparation of the putty mass. The material consumption is determined by a simple formula, which cannot be called a formula: 1 kg per 1 m² with a layer thickness of 1 mm, or, in another way, - (1 kg: 1 m²) × 1 mm.

Keep in mind that the putty should be prepared in exactly the amount in which you intend to use it, because this is not borscht or soup that can be cooked for several days. The putty mass is not designed for this practice, as it hardens rather quickly.

Kneading should be done in a metal bucket, since a plastic bucket may not withstand the blows of a harsh mixer. In addition, it will be much more convenient for you to work if the bucket is not round, but, say, square. In addition, this will reduce the consumption of the putty mixture. So, if you have a square metal bucket at your disposal, then it's time to use it. But if there is none, that's okay, use what you have.

In addition to the bucket, we will need to acquire two spatulas:

• the first is narrow (10 cm). It will come in handy in order to collect the putty mass from a bucket (the same one - metal and square). In addition, with a narrow spatula it is necessary to put putty on the second, more "serious" tool - a wide spatula. We will use it to clean the last from the adhering putty residues;
• the second - wide - "serious" - spatula. Its "severity", that is, width, will depend on how curved our work surface is. The wider it is, the wider the alignment bar, which is logical. Although there cannot be strict standards regarding the width of the instrument, it is still worth citing one figure: it should not be narrower (!) 40 cm.

The starting putty of the walls should be done in two layers, and between them, for better adhesion and prevention of microcracks, a masking net should be laid. This will not entail large material costs and will not take much time and effort, but it will ensure reliability, and, as we understand, this is fundamentally important for us.

Keep in mind that the wall should be aligned in all directions: not only from top to bottom, but also from left to right. How to do it? - very simple. It is necessary to apply layers of putty mass perpendicular to each other - that's all.

When wielding a spatula, you need to take into account one more important nuance... How less angle its inclination when applying putty on the wall - the thicker the layer will be. The finishing putty should be applied in a thin layer, which is practically washed out after applying a primer to it before direct painting or.

To bring the putty surface to a perfect condition, wait for the putty to dry (± 24 hours at 15–20 ° C) and then use a fine trowel to finish sanding the surface.

That is, in principle, the whole process of alignment in this way. Let's move on to the next one.

Lighthouse plaster

This method of alignment is appropriate if the walls are very curved, which is noticeable purely visually, that is, with the naked eye. Be prepared for the fact that this process is quite long, messy and laborious. But on the other hand, it is very effective, if putty does not help, and gypsum plasterboard (drywall) will take too much usable space from and so not very large room... Only in this case it will be advisable to resort to this alignment method.

Preparing the plaster mixture yourself is also quite reckless, unless, of course, you are a professional in this matter. In fact, it is rather difficult to measure all the necessary components in the correct proportions. But the way out is very simple: buy a ready-made mixture - and get to work without unnecessary, unnecessary gestures.

Be sure that all kinds of polymer components that are added to the plaster mix during manufacturing contribute to the strength and durability of the plastered surface. You don't even need to use a polymer mesh when working.

If it is necessary to plaster concrete or brick wall, - use cement-sand mixture... Such way will fit if the humidity level in the room is above average. In turn, gypsum, alabaster or clay cement are suitable for walls made of wood.

If the humidity in the room is at a normal level, then we are presented with many options: these are lime-clay / clay-gypsum, and cement-lime, and lime-gypsum mixtures.

Before proceeding with the leveling of the working surface, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures. In the previous section, we have already listed how exactly the walls should be prepared for alignment.

When everything is ready, you should install two vertical guide beacons along the edges. It goes without saying that you cannot do without using a building level. By the way, instead of special metal beacons, you can also use ordinary wooden planks, which will later have to be removed.

In turn, the alignment of the intermediate guides is carried out by the threads stretched between the main two beacons. The distance between them should be 20 cm less than the rule with which the work surface will be aligned.

It is necessary to fix the lighthouses on the wall with special plaster glue.

Now that the beacons are placed and locked in place, it's time to start leveling, which will take place in several stages.

First, the application of liquid plaster. It should be applied to the work surface in a continuous layer (± 4 mm thick) on the surface previously sprayed with water. If you work with a wooden surface, then the thickness of the plaster layer can be all 9 mm.

The main purpose of this first layer is to create a transition between the main work surface and the plaster that will be applied later.

Secondly, the application of the primer. If the previous solution can contain up to 60% water, then here everything is somewhat different. In this case, the solution should contain up to 30% water, which means that it should turn out to be much thicker.

As for the thickness, it should be no more than 7 mm. If the irregularities are already very significant, then there should be several layers. Each of the layers applied must be carefully leveled - there is a good rule to work with.

Thirdly, the application of the last layer (up to 4 mm). In construction, this process is also called "cover". In order for this layer to firmly adhere to the ground, the latter must not be completely dry. If you hesitate and the soil has dried, then before starting to apply liquid plaster, the previous layer should be moistened with water.

GKL (plasterboard sheets)

Often they resort to the method of leveling the walls using plasterboard sheets. What can I say? Drywall is good at everything: it is a strong, durable, environmentally friendly material from which you can make anything. In addition, it is environmentally friendly and harmless to human and animal health. The only drawback is that the size of the room will decrease slightly, but if this is not important, you can safely use this alignment method.

If the curvature of the walls is not critical, you can fix the gypsum board on the wall using a special plaster composition and dowels with self-tapping screws.

If the walls are curved to a large extent, then the sheets of drywall must be mounted on the frame. Here's how to make it:

• mount the UD profile around the perimeter;
• mount CD profiles vertically in increments of up to 60 cm;
• fix the gypsum board to the frame using self-tapping screws (25 mm) in increments of 30 cm.

The joints between the gypsum board and the places where the screws were screwed in are putty with a special plaster mass. Now, theoretically, wallpaper can be glued to a drywall surface, but keep in mind that in this case it will be problematic to remove them during repeated repairs without damaging the drywall itself. To avoid this, the surface should be additionally primed.

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The question of how to level the walls is asked by many apartment owners who have gathered to make repairs on their own. Not so long ago, the range of materials for leveling walls was not great. Today, the situation on the building materials market has changed dramatically, but there are only 2 methods for eliminating irregularities on surfaces:

• their facing GKL;
• plastering with building mixtures.

These wall alignment methods have both positive and negative sides. Those who prefer drywall will not have to deal with the laborious process of preparing the walls for plastering. It is enough for them to close up the cracks and fix the sheathing for the sheets on the walls. In addition, any communications can be hidden under the GCR. However, by using sheet materials to level the walls, homeowners significantly reduce their floor space.

A similar problem does not arise when leveling walls with building mixtures, but the process itself is laborious. Surfaces for plastering require careful preparation. On the walls, you need to fix the beacon profiles, based on which, the rule will distribute the plaster over the surface. In addition, wall leveling mixtures are often unable to cope with too large irregularities. However, for those who decided to make the alignment of the walls "Rotband", it will be easier to cope with the task than builders using other compositions in their work.

Characteristics of the Rotband mixture

"Rotband" - gypsum plaster, which has a number of advantages over other mixtures. She:

• excellent contact with most surfaces;
• has high plasticity;
• not prone to cracking and delamination;
• has a relatively low weight;
• dries quickly;
• practically does not sit down;

The disadvantages of a mixture for leveling walls include:

• high price;
• impossibility of using in rooms with high humidity;
• weak adhesion of the "Rotband" layers to each other.

True, the last drawback is eliminated if, before applying the next layer, the previous one is treated with a special primer.

When plastering with Rotband, the same tool is used as when working with other mixtures:

• trowels;
• putty knife;
• grater;
• rule.

Surface preparation

Before you start leveling the walls with Rotband, you need to prepare them. You need to remove from them:

• wallpaper;
• old paint;
• dust, dirt, greasy stains;
• peeling pieces of plaster.

At this stage, a tool such as;

• brushes;
• spatulas;
• hammer and chisel.

Finally, the remaining dust is removed from the walls with a vacuum cleaner or a damp brush. It is better to seal up significant cracks with a cement-sand mortar. After that, the surfaces must be treated with a primer "Betonkontakt" or "Grundirmittel". The latter is produced by Knauf, therefore it is most compatible with Rotband.

First you need to take a rule and check the condition of the wall with it. If the walls are flat enough, with differences of no more than 5-7 mm, they can be leveled without installing beacons. Using a tool such as a spatula, Rotband is applied to the surface like a putty.

In other cases, you have to install beacons. I must say right away what is better to buy plastic profiles which can be left in the wall after plastering. Metal beacons (even galvanized ones) will begin to corrode over time, and rusty spots will surely show through the wallpaper. You can safely put steel beacons if the wall is subsequently covered with tiles.

Before installing the lighthouses on the wall with a spatula, "slides" of gypsum plaster are applied. The distance between them in the vertical row should be about 30 cm. The longer the rule, the greater the distance between the "cakes" horizontally, but in any case it should be slightly less than the length of the fixture, since the tool will rely on adjacent walls when aligning the walls. lighthouses.

First, it is better to install the beacons closest to the corners of the room. They need to be pressed into the "slides" and check the verticality with a level or plumb line. Pull 2-3 threads between them and, guided by the cords, install the rest of the profiles. Next, you need to additionally check the plane by applying a building level or rule to the beacons (perpendicular to them).

Plastering "Rotband"

To obtain a high-quality mixture, you must follow the manufacturer's recommendations for its preparation.

It is best to prepare the mortar using a tool such as a construction mixer or a hammer drill (powerful drill) with a special attachment. The finished mixture should be worked out within half an hour.

With a trowel, you need to apply a solution between the beacons. Following the rule on them, you should distribute the solution along the wall. Leveling the surface should start from the bottom. Excess mortar is removed from the device with a spatula and recovered into a container. The mortar is again laid in the remaining recesses, and the rule goes through the unaligned areas again. In the corners of the room for plastering, it is more advisable to use a corner trowel.

If it is necessary to plaster in several layers, a new layer is applied after the previous one has hardened. Before re-plastering, the dried layer is primed. In addition, cruciform notches are made on it. With multi-layer plastering, the rule is used only for finishing alignment. The main tool for applying "Rotband" during preliminary plastering of the surface is a trowel. The leveling process is completed in 2-3 hours after plastering by rubbing the surface with a float moistened with water.

On the simplicity of working with "Rotband"

It should be noted that even the most distant person from the profession of a builder will be able to level the walls in an apartment with a Rotband mixture. Having received minimal experience with gypsum plaster, the craftsman will be able to create a surface that is ready for finishing with almost any material.

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