Many gardeners take under garlic 1-2 beds in their personal plot and, of course, they want to get a good harvest from them. The secret to getting large, succulent bulbs is proper planting care. Compliance with all the recommendations of vegetable growers, from the moment of choosing the planting material and ending with the timely harvesting of the crop, will allow even a beginner to fully enjoy the harvested crop.

The choice of planting material

All types of garlic are divided into archer and non-arrow.

Winter varieties shooters species reproduce by air bulbs (bulbs) and cloves. Non-shooting garlic is grown only vegetatively - from cloves.

In the first year, small or large one-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, intended for repeated planting in winter. And only for the next season or in a year you can get full-fledged garlic heads. The cloves planted before winter, obtained by parsing the bulbs, will yield multi-toothed root crops next summer.

The final result directly depends on the quality of the planted cloves.

Choose a garlic variety that is localized in your local area or grown in the surrounding area. Bulbs and bulbs brought from afar, no matter how beautiful they are, do not react well to changes in climate and growing conditions and, as a rule, do not give good yields.

Select only first-class material, avoiding planting cloves with signs of bacterial, fungal and viral infections.

Set aside small and crooked teeth - they, most often, die during dormancy or form small bulbs.

Dry heads, as well as mechanically damaged ones, are not suitable for planting.

Landing dates

Winter varieties of garlic are sown in the fall. Depending on the climatic characteristics of your region and the temperature conditions of the current fall, planting dates vary from mid-September to late October. In warm regions, garlic can be planted in November, while in areas with a harsh climate, it is better to plan planting work at the very beginning of autumn.

Site selection

• Garlic is a light-loving culture, therefore, well-lit areas of the garden are distinguished for its planting.
• The bulbs do not react well to high soil moisture, therefore, the plantation is not broken up in lowlands, in flooded areas and in places with a close occurrence of groundwater.

Crop rotation rules

The best predecessors crops are green manure (alfalfa, clover, mustard, legumes, phacelia, oats, buckwheat), early cabbage, early potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, carrots, beets, vegetable and hot peppers.

Stable yields of garlic are harvested in the beds where pumpkin vegetables (zucchini, squash, cucumbers, pumpkin) grew in the previous season, since fresh manure is introduced under them, which has time to decompose in a year and saturate the soil with vermicompost and necessary minerals.

Garlic is not planted after plants of the Onion family (garlic, onion, bulbous flowers). In the place already used for these crops, garlic can be cultivated only after 3-4 years due to the danger of the accumulation of pathogens and pests in the soil.

Preparing the beds for garlic

Garlic beds are prepared 4-6 weeks before planting or in the summer after harvesting early-maturing crops.

Garlic prefers light, well-structured, cultivated and fertile soils. The best crops are harvested by owners of plots with loamy or sandy loam soil.

Heavy clay soil it is required to loosen by introducing river sand, tyrsa and compost. Ultra-light sandstones, on the contrary, are made heavier by the delivery of clay soil and the addition of high doses of organic fertilizers (compost, humus).

Garlic reacts negatively on the increased acidity of the soil. If this is the land on your site, then in the previous season before planting the crop, alkalinization should be carried out by adding fluff lime, dolomite or bone meal, high doses of plant ash.

Garlic it is categorically contraindicated to make fresh organic matter rich in ammonia. High doses of nitrogen stimulate the growth of the aboveground part of plants, and this is contraindicated for garlic planted before winter, since the culture is preparing for a dormant period.

Best to use peat compost, rotted mullein or mature garden compost. The application rate of the listed fertilizers is from 1 to 4 buckets for each running meter when digging the soil to the depth of the shovel bayonet.

From mineral fertilizers superphosphate and potassium salt are added under winter garlic. The seeding rate varies depending on the fertility of the soil in your area and averages 30-40 g of superphosphate and 10-25 g of potassium salt for each square meter of beds.

As a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, vegetable growers often use ash or soot, rich not only in the named chemical compounds, but also in a whole complex of microelements. The application rate is 0.5 - 1 liter of ash for each meter of the bed.

Preparation of planting material

The bulbs are not processed before sowing, since infectious agents and pest larvae do not accumulate in them.

The teeth should be disinfected by soaking in a solution of potassium permanganate (medium pink) or copper sulfate (1%) to destroy pathogens and fungal infections. The immersion time in the antiseptic solution is 15 minutes.

Planting garlic

The soil in the prepared beds is loosened with a rake and grooves are cut at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other with a depth of 6 to 8 cm.

The teeth in each row are placed at a distance of 6-8 cm, spreading them with the bottom down or on the side. The planting pattern for air bulbs is more dense. The grooves are cut at a distance of 15 cm, the sowing step of the bulbs in a row is 2-3 cm, and the seeding depth is 3-5 cm.

After planting, the garden bed is recommended to be watered and mulched with an organic layer of 3-4 cm. Compost, breaking straw, high or low-lying peat, humus or tyrsa will provide additional warming of the plantings for the cold period, and as decomposition will saturate the soil with humus and mineral salts.

If you live in an area where the winter temperature drops below -25 ° C, then it is recommended to make an additional layer of coarse mulch, covering the beds with coniferous spruce branches or branches. Such a shelter will ensure the accumulation of a large layer of snow, wrapping the ground like a duvet.

Winter garlic care in spring

If you insulated the beds with spruce branches, then after the snow melts, the large mulch is removed. The organic layer does not need to be removed. Juicy and bright greens of garlic break out of the ground one of the first in the garden (March - April).

After the emergence of mass shoots, the plant needs increased doses of nitrogen... 2 weeks after the plantation turns green, the seedlings are fed with a solution of ammonium nitrate or urea (20 g / bucket of water) or a complex Nitroammophos (20 g / bucket of water). After 15 days, feeding is repeated.

At the beginning of the growing season, you need to constantly weed beds, removing weeds, and loosen the soil to a depth of 3 cm to provide the garlic root system with additional portions of oxygen.

In dry spring, regular watering once every 5-6 days.

Summer garlic care

In June, when the bulbs are forming, they carry out third root dressing phosphorus and potassium, using an ash infusion (1 glass of ash per bucket of water, leave for three days) or a solution of potassium monophosphate (20 g / bucket of water). Mono preparations are also suitable as fertilizers - superphosphate (25 g / bucket of water), potassium nitrate (15 g / bucket of water).

Watered plantation with the same frequency as in spring, completely stopping watering 3 weeks before the expected harvest. Loosening is desirable after each scheduled watering.

After the appearance of the arrows (in the shooting varieties), carry out the procedure for breaking them out... The arrows are removed when their height reaches 15 cm. This is necessary for the outflow of nutrients from the peduncle and their direction to the bulbs ripening in the ground.

Harvesting garlic

Garlic, overexposed even for several days in the ground, loses its commercial qualities - the outer integumentary scales begin to crack, and the chives begin to disintegrate into separate fractions.

To avoid this, watch the plantation carefully. The bulbs are dug up when the yellowing of the lower leaves plants and mass lodging tops.

To determine the ripening of the shooting varieties of the culture, 2-3 garlic arrows are left on the garden bed. The bulbs are ready to be dug out when the shell of the ball-shaped inflorescences begins crack.

After digging up the plants, they are left for several days right in the garden for drying in the sun (along with the stems). If weather conditions do not allow, then the garlic is transferred under a canopy and kept in this form for about 5 days in the air.

Good harvests of vegetables, berries and fruit crops every summer season!

Useful experience

If you want to store garlic in braids, and the climate in your region is damp and rainy, as, for example, in the Leningrad region and the weather does not allow to dry the harvest well in the garden, the stems rot by the time of harvest, you can use the following method.

The rotten parts of the stem are cut off, and through the remaining parts of the head they are “sewn together” with a garden twine or other suitable dense rope and a thick needle with a wide eye. The heads of garlic are arranged in such a way that they form plait-like knots.

This should be done until the stems are dry, otherwise they will crack when tingled with a needle. Also, you do not need to make knits heavier than 2-3 kg, the rope must withstand them.

Finished "braids" are hung to dry in a dry place.

When forming a loop for hanging, a needle with a cord can be passed through a piece of a cocktail tube, move this segment to the top of the loop, to the place where it touches the nail. This will protect against chafing.

, Tatiana Galanova, maegorenko, Mama-chaus.

Garlic is a very healthy product. Daily use of cloves in small quantities can have a beneficial effect on increasing the protective functions of the body. Therefore, most gardeners are happy to plant it in their beds. How to choose the right winter garlic for planting, prepare a garden bed and plant it in the fall before winter, read this article.

According to its characteristics, garlic is classified into spring and winter. The differences in them are that the first is planted in the spring, and the second - in the fall before winter.

However, for example, spring garlic is more often planted due to the possibility of its longer storage, but winter garlic is by no means inferior to its competitor, having the following advantages:

1. There are many different worries in the spring, and much more time in the fall.... The timing of planting winter garlic in the fall is not strictly fixed, so planting work can be extended for a long period.
2. Winter garlic is not afraid of either the first frost or a fierce winter, and even less returnable spring temperature drops. While the tender leaves of spring garlic in the spring can be ruined by a sharp drop in temperature.
3. Planting stock in the autumn months boasts larger specimens in front of spring specimens. The larger the planting material, the larger you will end up with a harvest (direct dependence). At the same time, spring seedlings often dry out by the time of sowing.
4. Winter crops are immune to diseases and pests, which cannot be said about spring specimens.
5. Planting garlic before winter does not require special care. In the autumn, the soil is saturated with a sufficient amount of moisture, allowing it to winter well in the cold months.
6. Harvesting is done earlier than with spring planting. Which means that in the summer months only representatives of winter varieties are present on store shelves.
7. Planting in autumn gives a greater yield than spring rooting.

By the way! How winter garlic differs from spring garlic outwardly, you can see in the diagram below.

Thus, planting garlic in the fall before winter is considered a very profitable business that brings a generous harvest. However, in order for everything to work out, you need to know the timing of the start of planting work.

When to plant garlic in autumn - in what month: optimal timing

The timing of planting garlic in the fall directly depends on the characteristics of the climatic zone in which you live and are going to plant the cloves, as well as on the current weather conditions.

As a rule, winter garlic begins to be planted 2-3 weeks before frost, so that during this time it has time to take root.

Garlic during this period only the root system needs to develop but no way non-aerial green mass.

The optimum soil temperature for planting garlic is + 10-12 degrees, but lower is allowed, but you cannot plant it in frozen ground.

If we single out planting periods by region, then the following dates for planting garlic in the fall are recommended:

1. The middle lane (Moscow region) - the end of September - the first half of October.
2. Southern regions - end of October-November.
3. Northern regions (Siberia, Urals) - the second half of September, the deadline is the first half of October.

Interesting! Each gardener is guided by his own observations. Some, for example, are sure that the best garlic is obtained if it is planted before the holiday of the Intercession. Others, on the contrary, try to plant on sunny days after the holiday.

Thus, garlic should be planted in the fall and, above all, based on the weather.

How to plant winter garlic in autumn - features and step-by-step instructions

To get a crop consisting of large, whole and even cloves, you first need to decide on a place for planting, prepare a garden bed, soil for planting cloves, choose a good planting material and properly prepare and process the winter garlic itself for planting.

Pick-up location

The place where the winter garlic will be planted is selected in advance. The culture is a plant that is very fond of sunlight. Therefore, it must be planted in open areas that are not shaded, for example, by fruit trees.

An excellent place to plant garlic is a small mound or bed on a hill (for example, a warm bed). If it is placed in a lowland, then during the spring melting of snow, the planting will flood, and the seedlings can rot because of this.

The best predecessors for planting winter garlic: crop rotation rules

Note! Naturally, if you want to get a rich harvest of winter garlic, then plant it, like any vegetables, according to the rules of crop rotation. About, after what crops is it better to plant winter garlic, read.

Preparing the garden and soil for planting winter garlic

The preparation of the beds where winter garlic will be planted begins to be engaged in about a month before the start of planting work.

Interesting! A bed for winter garlic is made in advance so that the soil in it settles a little.

As for the location in the garden, then, as already mentioned earlier, it is optimal to place the garden bed in a sunny place from north to south.

Further on the planned site you need dig up the soil to a depth of about 20-30 cm (shovel bayonet), while removing all weeds and other debris, and then apply fertilizers for digging to improve soil fertility.

The soil for growing winter garlic requires loose, soft, nutrient-rich soil. A spicy vegetable loves soil that perfectly permeates air and water, and most importantly, has a neutral acidity level (pH).

Do not choose a place where the soil is clayey, dense, or overly acidic. Sandy substrates are fine, but large heads require abundant watering and frequent fertilization.

By the way! If the soil is excessively clayey, then you can make it looser by adding peat and sand.

To prepare the soil for planting garlic before winter, organic and / or mineral fertilizers should be added to it.

If you are a supporter of organic farming, then the following fertilizers should be applied for digging:

• compost or rotted manure (1 bucket per 1 square meter);
• (1-2 glasses or 100-200 gr per 1 square meter).

By the way! Ash can be poured into a hole or groove right before planting.

If you allow the use of mineral fertilizers, then add potash:

• (20-30 grams per 1 square meter);
• potassium sulfate (20-30 grams per 1 square meter).

By the way! As a reinforced measure, you can mix organic and mineral fertilizers.

After digging and applying the necessary fertilizers to the soil, the bed is well leveled and so left until the autumn planting.

Advice! Some gardeners advise to additionally protect and disinfect the soil by spilling it with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, or. But, in principle, this can be done after landing.

How to choose the right seedlings

The teeth should be chosen in the largest sizes from the most correct heads, and it is desirable that each one contains no more than 5-6 pieces. If you choose small cloves, then the garlic will turn out to be very small volumes.

Important! The teeth should be free of rot and mold. It is worth carefully inspecting the surface for stains of unnatural structure. Do not take teeth for rooting with mechanical damage.

All teeth suitable for planting should be completely "dressed" in the shell, without visible flaws.

Important! The garlic should be divided into cloves just before planting (before soaking).

Processing and preparation of garlic for planting

Before planting garlic cloves in the fall in open ground, they should first be prepared for planting:

1. Each clove is carefully separated from the others so as not to damage the outer shell and the place of root growth (bottom). Some gardeners recommend slightly cleaning the bottom (from cork deposits) so that it takes root better, only this must be done very carefully so as not to accidentally remove the scales and expose the clove.
2. Further, all cloves must be carefully sorted. All that are corrupted should be disposed of. If you plant such garlic, it will not only not give a normal head, but it can infect the entire garden.

1. You can soak the cloves in the Maxima solution (according to the instructions) for 20-30 minutes.
2. To surely pickle and disinfect garlic, it is soaked in a solution of "Fundazol" (according to the instructions).
3. A pink solution of potassium permanganate is also suitable. Again, 20-30 minutes.
4. For soaking, you can also use a 1% solution of copper sulfate (10 grams per 1 liter). For all the same up to half an hour.
5. Many summer residents recommend holding the cloves in the solution (according to the instructions) for 5-10 minutes.
6. According to the old tradition, quite often the cloves are soaked in saline solution (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water), keeping for half an hour.

Advice! What is the best way to process the cloves of garlic is decided by each gardener independently. For fun, you can try soaking multiple batches of cloves in different solutions and planting them in separate rows to experiment.

Direct landing and its rules

Basic rules for planting winter garlic:

By the way! Many people like plant garlic not in grooves, in separate holes, in other words, plant out pointwise... Moreover, it is convenient to make such pits with special devices, or with a bottle neck (as in the title photo of the article).

Important! If the teeth are placed too high to the surface, they may freeze. If, on the contrary, it is too deep, then they will germinate for too long or completely rot.

Step-by-step instructions for planting garlic in the fall before winter:

1. Decide on a place for planting, while taking into account the rules of crop rotation.
2. Prepare the bed and soil.
3. Choose high-quality planting material, process (soak) it in a disinfecting solution.
4. Cut grooves or holes.
5. Plant the cloves in accordance with the rules.
6. Cover with fertile soil.
7. Optionally, for additional disinfection of the soil, you can spill it with a solution (according to the instructions).
8. Mulch (if you have a cold and harsh climate in the fall).

Video: the correct planting of garlic in the fall before winter

Winter garlic care after planting

If your winters are very cold, then with the onset of frost, the garden mulch with sawdust, or laid with pine branches or straw, you can even cover it with spunbond. But in the spring, all the shelter will need to be removed at the very first warm days, but the mulch can be left (some specially grow garlic in mulch).

If the autumn is dry, there is little rainfall, then it is recommended to shed the beds a couple of times so that the rooting process goes faster.

Naturally, the main care is in the spring. Some time after the snow masses come down, the first green sprouts should already be visible. Watering is not yet required, because after the snow melts, the soil has been saturated with a sufficient amount of moisture.

When to harvest winter garlic and how to store it (methods)

Possible mistakes when planting garlic in the fall and when growing it

No matter how experienced the gardener is, he still often makes offensive mistakes that could not have been made if he knew exactly what to pay special attention to.

There are the following mistakes, which are often made when planting garlic in the fall before winter:

• When buying planting material, the sellers themselves often confuse names or even mix everything together. Therefore, there is a chance to buy the wrong garlic in the fall. So either use your own planting material or watch what you buy carefully and carefully.
• Planted without a shell... Garlic, like a fish, dies without scales. Many gardeners believe that it is imperative to remove the casing. They are of the opinion that scales (or poorly removed old crust) interfere with the germination of roots. However, in the absence of a shell, the clove soon begins to actively rot.
• Planting is done immediately after the garden has been dug up and prepared. Firstly, when you add mineral and organic additives for digging, they need time to saturate the soil with nutrients. Secondly, the cloves planted during this period, after the earth subsides, will necessarily bury themselves in the soil too deeply, which will negatively affect their germination and further growth.
• Planted out too early. If you plant early enough, back in August, the warm weather will provoke active growth of green shoots. And they will die with the onset of cold weather, which will lead to a weakening of the planting material.
• Arrows are not removed in spring... Of course, the final size of the garlic depends on the head of the bulb, but if you leave the arrow that he released in the spring, then all the power of the head will go to the formation of bulbs. Therefore, the arrows should be broken off even during the period of their formation.

Thus, it is better to plant garlic in the autumn, since during the winter it undergoes natural stratification, which allows the plant to harden in natural conditions and accumulate mass. And then the main thing is that everything (preparation of the garden and soil, processing and planting of the cloves themselves) should be done on time and correctly.

Video: everything about planting garlic in the winter for huge harvests

In contact with

When to plant winter garlic? Preparing the garlic bed. Video - Growing large winter garlic. Mulching garlic in the fall. When to remove the mulch from garlic? Buy seed garlic.

In this article I will tell you in detail how I grow very large garlic in the suburbs using the "Planted and Forgot" technology. The name of this technology was not invented by me, but by my good friend from the city of Belgorod. He himself plants garlic in about the same way, and wrote about this last year “Planting winter garlic. Mulching with hay and leaves "-

When to plant winter garlic?

In 2016, I planted garlic on October 9th. I usually plant garlic at the very end of October, but according to the forecast, they promised a sharp cooling, so it is better to play it safe and plant the garlic early.

Preparing the garden for planting garlic.

Preparing a bed for planting garlic comes down to the following - you need to remove the previous culture, level the ground with a rake, and mulch with a thick layer of grass. There should be really a lot of grass, and the finer the grass is chopped, the better. I use an electric or petrol powered lawnmower with wheels. The volume of freshly cut grass is a whole, 120-liter wheelbarrow per 1 sq. M. Work usually takes place at the end of August. This completes the preparation of the garden and after about a month and a half we are planting garlic.

For those who came to the site for the first time, it may be interesting to know the principle itself andintensive natural farming... See the results of applying this method on all cultures, about this -

Planting winter garlic. Mulching garlic in the fall.

Seed garlic. Moscow region.

Through the mulch I make holes for garlic, about 5-6 cm deep. The distance between the rows is about 15 cm, between the holes in a row is 13-15 cm.

There will be a video at the end of the article, and you can see everything. Then I lightly sprinkle each hole with earth. Then I take a lawn mower and collect the fallen leaves with which I mulch the garlic after planting. From which tree the fallen leaves do not matter, in my case it is the Manchurian nut.

I mulch a bed with garlic with leaves, a layer of leaves of 15-20 cm.

Winter will pass, a thick layer of snow will compact the leaves well, but the garlic plant is very strong and makes its way through the leaves without problems. (Watch the video)

When to remove the mulch from garlic?

I hear this question every spring!

Tell me, why did we mulch the garlic? Why did you work so hard? In winter, garlic will not freeze without any mulch. Then why did we mulch it?

We mulched the garlic in the fall, so as not to practice garlic in the summer, not to stand in a characteristic position, doing weeding.

Everything! There is no garlic care, all care comes down to autumn mulching, in the summer there are more important things to do. This is the technology - "Planted and forgot".

If suddenly in May there is a strong heat, which is extremely rare in the Moscow region, you will need to water the garlic.

Why pick off the arrows from the garlic?

Spring and June were very cold this year.

July 7, 2017, the harvest is very late. Today I just cut off the arrows. This will increase the yield, the head of garlic will be larger. I leave a few arrows. Firstly, they can be used to determine if the garlic is ready for harvesting. Secondly, you can plant garlic with seeds, next year one-toothed garlic or small garlic will grow, and thus you can update the variety. The bulbs on my garlic grow large.

A bulb of garlic on a regular sheet of paper in a cage.

I want to add that this year I don't have a single arrow on my bow. Onions shoot from improper storage in winter, you can still onions before planting, within a month at a temperature of 25 -27 degrees, but I do not have such conditions, so I buy and plant immediately.

Garlic near Moscow.

I hope that I didn’t miss anything, and it became clear to everyone that growing large garlic using the “Plant and forget” technology is much easier than using the traditional method, which implies digging, weeding and feeding, and I don’t consider breaking the arrows to be hard work.

Garlic is subdivided into winter and spring. Each has pros and cons. Winter crops yield a large harvest, but are poorly stored. Spring yields a smaller yield, but lasts until next year.

Plant species

How to distinguish spring from winter in appearance? A hard core sticks out of the middle of the winter crop bulb - the remainder of the arrow. The spring does not have such a rod, so it does not shoot. The winter bulb's teeth are large and form one layer. The cloves of the spring bulb are small and can be arranged in two or more layers. And the main difference is the different planting dates. Spring is planted in spring, and winter - in autumn. And now about the main thing - about the landing rules.

Garlic growing video

The technology of growing garlic is constantly being improved. This is how several landing methods appeared, which we will now tell you about.

Method number 1 - traditional

A place is allocated for the culture from under the early harvested plants: cucumbers, early cabbage, radishes, legumes. The site should not be located in a lowland and flooded with melt water in spring - the teeth will rot and die. The soil is fertilized: humus or rotted manure is added, shovels are dug onto a bayonet and furrows are made every 25 cm. The uncleaned teeth are planted every 10-12 cm. The plantings are closed, watered and mulched.

Photo of planting winter garlic

Method number 2 - double landing

A double planting of garlic is relevant for small areas. The main secret is that the garlic sits in 2 levels (tiers). This is done in the fall or at the end of August. The first row is located below, the second - above. We dig a groove deeper and lay out the first level of the teeth at a depth of 11-12 cm. Someone might say - deep. Do not worry. They will feel great there.

Fill with earth and lay out the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. Between the teeth we make a distance of 10-15 cm, between the grooves - 25 cm. Sprinkle with earth. It turns out one tooth above the other. Nobody bothers anyone, everything is enough for everyone.

Method number 3 - sowing

You can also not stick the teeth into the ground, but sow, that is, lay them out on a barrel or just throw them in rows. The only thing that may confuse you is a garlic head lying on its side and a curved neck. But this does not affect the quality of products, taste and size of the onion.

In the photo, sowing garlic

The teeth were planted and mulched. In the spring, they immediately start growing. The tooth that turned out to be lower - in more favorable conditions. It is deeper and warmer there. He developed the root system better. And the one that is higher warms up faster in spring.

When to harvest garlic? The bulbs are harvested when the arrow bursts. Why then break out the arrows? If you leave them, then the garlic heads will grow less. The arrow takes over the food, since the bulbs are formed on it, but it is worth leaving a few. The garlic arrows will show you when it's ready to harvest. The arrows are broken out not when they just emerged from the stem, but when they made a circle.

When to plant garlic?

Every autumn this question arises for all gardeners. And here, as they say, how many people, so many opinions. Someone prefers to plant the bulb 2-3 weeks before the soil freezes. The tooth manages to take root and in the spring willingly starts to grow. But the early August and September planting is considered not correct, since the tips of the feather begin to turn yellow early in the plant. We will not convince you of the correctness or incorrectness of a particular method. We will tell you about an interesting experience we have done.

We planted the garlic on three dates: August 20, September 20 and October 20. The best harvest was given by the August planting. He wintered the best. If you think about it, it immediately becomes clear why this is so. We planted it early, it managed to take root well, gained strength and in the spring immediately drove it to growth. And the worst harvest was from the October planting. It did not really take root, did not winter well and did not grow much.

If the plant managed to sprout from the August and September planting, then nothing terrible happened. It should be so. To check if the August planting is so effective, plant some of the cloves early, and some when it seems more correct to you, and then compare the results.

Why doesn't sprouted garlic freeze, you ask? When he gave roots, the composition of the cell sap changed, there was more sugar in it. Try freezing the syrup. The syrup will not freeze, but the water will freeze. That is, after germination, it passes into another state, it simply "falls asleep" for the winter.

Top dressing

Feeding garlic in the summer closer to harvesting is already useless. If you are going to feed him, then this should be done in May - June. Then, from the pen, he gains the weight of the bulb itself. When he wakes up, he needs it. As a top dressing, take an infusion of vermicompost or horse manure. It is advisable to mulch the plantings with humus or straw chopped into pieces.

The aisles are sprinkled with pest ash. Mulching helps to retain moisture in the soil and protects the bulbs from overheating. You don't need to mulch the garlic. Cultivation and care then consist in top dressing, regular loosening, weed removal and watering.

One more rule: we choose the largest teeth for planting. We plant small - small bulbs and get. If the tops turn yellow, this indicates damage to the root system. Reasons: gnawing at the roots by pests or the action of soil rot.

If the plantings are mulched, then there is no need to water them. Under normal weather conditions, rain moisture is sufficient. After all, the clove has already grown roots, it will draw moisture from the soil itself, and form a good bulb.

Also prefers fertile land. If necessary, humus or rotted manure is introduced into the soil in an amount of 3-5 kg ​​/ m2. The teeth are planted in rows at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. A distance of 25-28 cm is maintained between the rows. The approximate depth of planting garlic cloves is 3 cm. We will describe two methods.

Method number 1 - traditional

Planted in spring early spring on April 15-25. Before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and sorted by size. Slices of each size should preferably be planted in separate grooves. Care consists in regularly loosening row spacings, watering and removing weeds. If the plantings are mulched, then, as mentioned above, there is no need for watering.

Method number 2 - sprouted teeth

Garlic heads are stored all winter at a temperature of 20 0 C. At the end of March, the bulbs are disassembled into slices, soaked for 3 hours in water at room temperature, taken to the cellar, where they are laid out in one layer and covered with rags or film. When the roots grow 2-5 cm long, the teeth are planted in moist soil.

Photo of planting garlic

Spring plants are fed as well as winter crops with infusion of mullein, vermicompost or horse manure. Of inorganic fertilizers, urea is used at the rate of 1 matchbox per bucket of water when shoots appear, then after 10 days and the third time at the end of June. Ash is scattered from pests in the aisles.

Spring bulbs are harvested when the feathers of the lower layer of the plant dry out in the third decade of August - the first decade of September. The bulbs selected from the soil are laid out in one row to dry under a canopy. The tops should dry completely. Do not rush to cut the green shoots of garlic, since the bulb receives nutrition from them and continues to grow during drying. Dry tops are cut, leaving 5 cm.

Garlic tends to degenerate, like potatoes. When multiplying by teeth, diseases gradually accumulate in the culture, the yield decreases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time the garlic is renewed from the bulbs (air). In the first year, one-toothed is obtained from the air. In the second year, full-fledged bulbs grow from them. The garlic turns out to be healthy and you don't have to run around looking for planting material, especially since it is quite expensive.

Garlic in the photo

Bulbules are taken from plants where the arrow was left. When the inflorescence bursts and the bulbs turn in the color characteristic of this variety, the inflorescences are broken out, put in a dry place for ripening. For planting, take bulbs with a diameter of 4-5 mm.

Method number 1 - traditional

Bulbules are sown in the first days of October. Humus is introduced into the soil 3-4 kg per 1 m 2, dug up. Rows are made up to 4 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The rows are watered, air is laid out every 3 cm and sprinkled with earth. In spring and summer, crop care is the same as for regular garlic. By the beginning of August, one-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, which are dug out when the tops turn yellow. They are dried and used for autumn planting on a full-fledged bulb.

Method number 2 - direct

In the first year, one-toothed is grown from the air by the traditional method. In August, one-toothed beetles are not dug up, but left in the soil for the winter. The following spring, the plants are carefully thinned out, thus increasing the distance between the remaining bulbs. By the end of May, the distance between the rows should be 25 cm, and between the one-toothed teeth in a row - 10-12 cm.

Video about growing and caring for garlic

Method number 3 - growing through winter

Bulbs are sown in the first half of June. Before that, they are stored unmilled in the refrigerator. By the second decade of September, plants already have 4-5 leaves, a good root system and a thick stem as thick as a pencil. In October, winter plants are hardened and winter well. The next year, full-fledged bulbs develop from them.

We have shared with you all the secrets that we used ourselves. Now you know how to grow garlic. It's up to you. Choose the method you like, or rather several, in order to compare the results later, and grow a huge crop, to the delight of your neighbors and the envy of your neighbors.

Unsuitable.

But on the other hand, already in the middle of summer, the hostesses with great pleasure use its large fragrant bulbs with a burning taste in their culinary masterpieces, however, as well as powerful green "arrows" - flower stalks.

Winter garlic: planting in autumn and growing

Therefore, having removed the autumn harvest from the beds, gardeners do not waste time and begin to prepare the soil for planting crops before winter.

And right there, many novice vegetable growers have a reasonable question:

Then you can plant garlic before winter?

Knowing the rules of crop rotation, you can save energy on soil cultivation and feeding, and also reduce the likelihood of pests and diseases.

The best precursors for garlic will be plants that have long roots that penetrate deep into the soil and improve the quality of the soil.

These are representatives of the family:

• pumpkin;
• legumes;
• cabbage and green crops;
• as well as cereals, with the exception of barley and millet;

• and strawberries.

After which you should not plant garlic before winter?

Definitely after related crops such as onions. This is a completely unsuitable predecessor.

They suffer from the same diseases, and they take the same mineral substances from the soil.

An orange root vegetable, like a vacuum cleaner, sucks in all the nutrients from the earth and dramatically depletes it, even applying top dressing does not help.

And also after beets and potatoes. The crops of these plants are harvested late and there is simply not enough time to prepare the beds.

A bed for winter garlic

For garlic, fertile loamy lands with a neutral environment are taken away.

It is advisable to place it in an area that is protected from the wind, and where there is no stagnation of water in the spring after the snow melts. Garlic loves sunny and dry places.

For 2 weeks we prepare a garden for garlic in order to carry out planting before winter.

Weeds and tops of previous crops are removed from the beds.

Light soils are loosened with a pitchfork, heavy or dense soil is dug up with a bayonet shovel.

Be sure to apply fertilizers depending on the composition of the land:

• humus, compost, 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, a glass of chalk and dolomite flour are added to loamy soils;
• clay soil is fed with the same components as loam, and peat and coarse sand are sprinkled;
• loam and sand are added to peat areas;
• clay soil and peat must be added to sandy soils, as well as what was suggested for loamy soils.

If the soil after its predecessors has an acidic environment, then 300 g of fluff lime is used to neutralize it. Be sure to give the earth some time to rest.

Remember - you cannot add fresh organic matter to the beds for garlic.

Seed material

Winter garlic is propagated by bulbs with a diameter of at least 25 cm, a single-toothed set - 10 mm and bulbs - at least 4 mm. All of them are suitable for planting in the fall.

Exceptionally healthy seed material is selected for reproduction, sprouted bulbs, diseased, spoiled or dried out bulbs are discarded.

It is equally important to know which garlic to plant before winter - large or small.

Many housewives leave large heads for storage, with subsequent use for food, while smaller ones are left for sowing purposes.

But next year they will be very disappointed.

The yield is less, and the heads are inferior in size to their predecessors.

If you notice that the garlic has begun to shrink from year to year, then it needs to be rejuvenated.

For these purposes, use bulbs - air bulbs.

The timing of planting a crop depends on the climate of your region and the weather.

Therefore, it is rather difficult to name the exact date of disembarkation.

The main thing is to have time to plant it 45 days before the onset of stable cold weather, when the ground temperature drops to +10 ° C.

During this period, the plant should gain a foothold in the ground and form a good root system, but it should not have time to release green shoots.

How to plant garlic cloves in the fall

The fertilized bed is leveled with a rake and grooves 5–8 cm deep are made. About 20 cm is left between the rows.

The cloves of the shooting varieties are planted 6-10 cm apart, the non-shooting garlic - 10-15 cm.

Seed material is laid out in grooves without pressing, and sprinkled with loose soil 4 cm thick.

Then the planting must be covered with mulch - peat, sawdust, straw. The layer thickness must be at least 5 cm.

In regions with severe frosts, the beds are covered with straw manure.

But in the spring, after the snow melts, it must be immediately removed, and the topsoil must be loosened by 2 cm. Landings planted in autumn are not watered.

Growing garlic in bulbs takes a longer time.

It will take at least two years for a full-fledged head to grow from an air bulb. They are sown either in early spring or in autumn.

The first option is preferable, since due to cold weather or pushing them to the soil surface, a large amount of planting material dies.

In addition, during autumn planting, the plants throw out arrows, during spring sowing - this is not observed.

When to plant garlic with bulbs before winter?

At the same time as the cloves. 1–1.5 months before the onset of persistent cold weather.

How to plant bulbs of garlic before winter

For planting, choose larger bulbs.

In this case, already in the first year, sevok is formed - roundish single-toothed bulbs.

The day before sowing, the bulbs are soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

All the garlic liquid that has floated to the surface can be ruthlessly thrown out, they are not suitable for sowing.

On the beds, grooves are made 4 cm deep, a distance of 10-15 cm is left between the seeds, and 20 cm between the rows.

Garlic is laid out in grooves, sprinkled with earth and covered with mulch.

Outdoor winter garlic care

Garlic planted on time, well covered, can survive a drop in temperature to -45 ° C without any special consequences, and at +3 ° C in the spring it already begins to grow.

Therefore, in the spring, it is necessary to remove the covering material from the garden in a timely manner, otherwise the plants may rot.

The main growth of the culture occurs at a temperature of + 18 ... + 23 ° C.

At this time, do not forget to take care of the grown plants.

Fertilization

First, the emerging seedlings are fed after the snow melts - they are watered with a solution of urea and mullein (1 tablespoon of urea and 1 glass of mullein are taken for 10 liters of water) or manure is diluted in water (1:10).

After 14 days, they are fed with nitrofoskoy, 2 tbsp. spoons of the product are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Watering winter garlic

To prevent the bulbs from overheating in the sun, the seedlings are huddled to a height of 3-5 cm, but shortly before harvesting, the upper part of the head is freed from the soil, this contributes to a faster weight gain.

Winter garlic is harvested in July, when the outer leaves turn yellow completely and the inflorescences open.