Exists different materials furniture upholstery, some of them quickly fail. Often, the product itself is suitable for use - it has an intact frame, filler and fittings, but it no longer looks aesthetically pleasing. For such a situation, there is practical solution- this is a couch hauling at home with the call of specialists from a furniture company or a private master. Replacement of upholstery gives furniture a new life.

Sofa banner material

Textile

It is known that all good materials to create new upholstery, home furniture must have certain properties. The special qualities of the fabrics ensure long-term use as intended while maintaining the aesthetic appearance. The material must necessarily have high wear resistance so that upholstered furniture can be used for years and there is no damage left on it. An important property of the fabric is its 100% hydrophobicity. This quality means the repulsion of moisture, which is very useful in everyday life.

The material must be very durable so that it does not burst under the pressure of people sitting on the sofa. This figure reflects the durability of the new upholstery. Ideally, the fabric is smooth and soft to touch, providing the highest comfort for both adults and children.

For example, these practical materials are in demand today:

• jacquard;
• chenille;
• anti-claw;
• velours;
• flock;
• matting;
• tapestry;
• microfiber;
• leatherette.

Leather

Leather

Today, a very useful service exists and is gaining popularity - a visit to the home of specialists to tighten furniture with genuine leather. If necessary, the craftsmen take the sofa for a while and work in their workshop. Genuine leather is more expensive than woven upholstery. A professional approach involves careful planning of new furniture upholstery - a set of patterns is made and the parts are sewn according to the scheme.

It is important to choose the right thickness of the natural material. Elastic leather behaves best in upholstery. It is not recommended to overtighten the sofa with leather thicker than 3 mm, as it is too rough and difficult to work with. It is easier to sew leather with a thickness of 1.5 mm. The new upholstery is made of dry leather, but if it is wet, it may shrink later.

Eco leather

Today, covering an old sofa with practical and aesthetic eco-leather costs half the price of buying the same one. new furniture... Eco-leather is cheaper than natural leather and keeps its shape perfectly. It is not recommended to do this operation on your own, especially since you cannot just buy the material in a store. Better to turn to professionals. Eco-leather is good because it has high wear resistance, lasts up to 10 years. The material is water-repellent, very pleasant to the touch and surprisingly elastic. The new upholstery will be easy to maintain. Moreover, at first glance, eco-leather is completely indistinguishable from natural leather.

When using such a sofa, allergies are excluded, there is no irritation on the most delicate skin. Eco-leather does not attract dust, does not deteriorate under the influence of high and low temperatures. The hauling process is very time consuming and requires a lot of tools and skills.

photo instruction - how to pull the sofa

How much material is required for the restoration?

Only professionals can correctly calculate the consumption of materials. If you took up this business on your own, then you will have to study some of the nuances. First you need to decide what kind of material will be used. Next, you need to make accurate measurements of all the details of the sofa. Details are cut out taking into account seam allowances and fabric folds. It is imperative to measure the longest and widest parts of the backrest, seat, cushions and armrests. Draw the outline of the sofa as a sketched outline. Add all vertical numbers and divide by 100.

It is important to depict the vertical and horizontal details correctly, in the correct position. The resulting number approximately reflects the length of a piece of fabric in meters, which will be required to cut all the details. To determine the required width of a piece of fabric, it is necessary to make a start from one of the horizontal parts, the one that is widest. When you calculate the width and length, add another 1 meter for every 5 meters, for a comfortable fit.

Approximate fabric consumption:

• double sofa - up to 9 sq. m;
• three-seater sofa - up to 12 sq. m;
• kitchen sofa (corner) - up to 6 sq. m;
• corner sofa or regular sofa with 2 armchairs - up to 22 sq. m.

Typically, the consumption of fabric increases greatly if it has a complex pattern, which must be carefully adjusted when joining parts. It can also take a lot of material if there are no patterns and design is done on site. In the case of very thick armrests, backrests or seats or complex, non-standard furniture, a lot of fabric is also consumed.

Types of sofa constriction

Corner sofa

Updating a corner sofa presupposes certain specifics, it is more difficult to work with it than with a classic one. If you contact the craftsmen who are engaged in hauling furniture, then the work will begin with the inspection and disassembly of furniture. All details are signed for convenience, since we are dealing with an angular structure. Next, the upholstery and filler are disposed of. New material defined by the user. Then measurements are taken and new parts are cut on the model of the old ones. If you make a mistake at this stage, the upholstery will be uneven, wrinkled.

After cutting, the process of stretching itself takes place, and then the craftsmen assemble the corner sofa, and it looks like new. Although the process is laborious and time-consuming, it is worth it.

Kitchen sofa

It is known that modern budget kitchen corners with a sofa they wear out quickly and the upholstery looks unpresentable. Children or pets can spoil it. Such a picture spoils the interior of the kitchen. If the kitchen sofa has become unusable, there is no need to rush to dispose of it. It is worth calling specialists, they will be able to quickly revive the distortions of the furniture and completely replace the upholstery. It can be left-sided or right-sided. It can be over-tightened without stitching parts or with sewing.

Craftsmen know how to update kitchen sofas with decor, for example, sewing on buttons, edging and stitching. It is possible to replace synthetic winterizer or foam rubber; instead, similar new insides are laid. Broken frame parts must also be replaced. Genuine leather can serve as a new upholstery.

Sofa-book

Each of us knows well what a sofa-book looks like, many have been using it for a long time. Your favorite piece of furniture can be short term refresh by replacing the trim with a new one. The waist technology has been proven over the years and requires standard tools. Anyone can handle the job furniture master, even with little experience. Some even try to pull the sofa on their own, but it is still necessary to have an idea of ​​the process. To update the book, you need screwdrivers, a construction stapler, a hammer, pliers, PVA glue, harsh threads, a drill, a wallpaper knife, scissors, chalk round-nose pliers and a nail puller.

New covers can be made from any fabric the customer chooses. As a rule, fold-out sofas are cheaper than other complex designs. Often, hauling a book at home is combined with the replacement of some outdated parts.

Sofa armrests

It often happens that the sofa looks like new, with the exception of the armrests. Worn or leaky sides spoil appearance furniture. Armrests upholstered furniture- this is the most vulnerable place with which people come into contact the most. We put our hands on the sides or sit on them, or this part can ruin the pet because of the need to scratch everything in the absence of a scratching post. The new armrests are covered with natural leather, eco-leather or any dense material that will match the color and texture of the main part of the sofa.

Repairing the armrests is inexpensive as there is no need to dismantle other parts. Very little material is used up, so you can save money. All the workers have to do is detach the armrests, remove the upholstery and cut out exactly the same parts, attach the trim and sidewalls in place.

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How much does it cost to haul a sofa at home?

Here are approximate prices for professional sofa upholstering:

• covering the elements of the sofa with dense genuine leather - 19,500 rubles;
• updating the leather of the corner sofa - 17,000 rubles;
• restoration of a large sofa with leather - from 12,000 rubles;
• restoration of a medium-sized sofa with leather - 7,000-10,000 rubles;
• updating leather sofa with wooden or fabric armrests - 3000-6000 rubles;
• full leather sofa cover - from 15,000 rubles;
• updating a corner sofa with leather and leatherette - from 14,000 rubles;
• covering a soft corner sofa - from 8,000 rubles;
• restoration of a sofa for 2-3 seats with soft leather armrests - from 5500 rubles;
• covering a sofa without armrests with leather - 3,500 rubles;
• stretch on a 3-seater sofa of new eco-leather - from 9,000 rubles;
• stretch on a 2-seater sofa of new eco-leather - from 6,000 rubles;
• upholstery of an eco-leather sofa-book or sofa-bed - from 1600 rubles;
• updating the upholstery of a corner sofa - from 8,000 rubles;
• upholstery with leather or fabric of a classic sofa - from 4000 rubles;
• restoration of a couch-couch or a sofa-book with wooden armrests - from 2300 rubles;
• covering a modern book without armrests - from 3,500 rubles;
• restoration of a sofa without armrests - from 2800 rubles;
• renovation of a very old sofa with replacement of springs - from 9,000 rubles.

The prices are indicated for the work, perhaps the departure of the masters will be paid separately.

Restoration by a private master

A private craftsman is the one you need to pull the sofa with high quality without taking it out of your home. The fact is that contacting a special large firm for the repair of furniture is good, but more costly, since the payment includes the remuneration of the firm and workers for labor. If you are dealing with a self-taught furniture maker who is called a "jack of all trades", then you will not lose. The fact is that usually a private trader has a lot of experience behind him and he has about the same knowledge as qualified craftsmen from a furniture company.

Do not be afraid to contact private craftsmen, as their services will not cost you much. But try to discuss in advance all the nuances of the upcoming work on updating your furniture, and also control the work process.

hauling furniture at home

How to make a do-it-yourself sofa banner?

Given below step-by-step instruction on self-stretching the sofa:

• disassemble furniture - carefully detach all parts (sides, poufs, back, seat and pillows);
• put all fasteners in a container so as not to lose;
• using a flat screwdriver and a staple remover, remove all the old upholstery (in some places you will need to open the staples);
• replacement of the insides is done in the event that the old ones are out of order and crumpled (for example, it is often necessary to change the foam rubber filler, it is short-lived);
• replace belts, nets and correct spring defects, if required;
• the pattern of new parts from a single piece of fabric will be accurate and fast if you take old parts as a basis (be sure to take into account the allowances);
• pull the new upholstery moderately tightly and evenly, gradually targeting the parts with a furniture stapler to the base;
• when all the parts are sheathed with fabric or leatherette, you need to assemble everything in the reverse order.

In addition, when hauling furniture at home, a synthetic winterizer, metal dowels, glue, wire, nylon thread and self-tapping screws can be useful. There are many tricks to the process of renovating furniture, this can be learned, but it takes practice.

As you can see, you can pull the sofa if you want without leaving your home. This event will not take long. Updating will definitely cost significantly less than buying new furniture, which means it will significantly save money. New upholstery can be from any available material, have any colors and textures, at the request of the owner.

Even the highest quality furniture breaks down or loses its former attractiveness during intensive use. There is no need to immediately get rid of it after making purchases. There are many ways in which you can update interior items. You don't even need a restorer to do this. It is quite possible to fix a sofa with your own hands. Below are methods to help give things an updated look.

If the thing has lost its former attractiveness, you can return it to its original appearance through a number of techniques.

How to upgrade an old sofa:

How is the hauling of furniture carried out?

In fact, this procedure is overhaul furniture. If you try, you can get almost new furniture out of an old sofa that fully meets the idea of ​​an ideal piece of furniture.

This work is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, even if you are not House master... To restore a leather sofa, you need to prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance.

To carry out the constriction you will need:

• screwdrivers and pliers (they are needed to remove old staples);
• a set of wrenches designed for nuts and bolts; tape measure (without it, it is impossible to take measurements);
• construction or pneumatic stapler;
• staples (6-10 mm. In this situation, it all depends on the thickness and density of the material that will be used to upholster the repaired item);
• garbage bags.

To sew a new sofa cover you will need:

• upholstery fabric (or leatherette) and lining fabric;
• tailor's scissors;
• special crayons for the material (in extreme cases, you can take remnants);
• reinforced threads;
• ruler;
• paper for creating patterns;
• sewing machine.

How to remodel furniture at home?

Just follow the instructions:

Stage I: we begin to restore furniture by disassembling it, which involves unscrewing and removing locks, as well as unfastening old brackets that were needed to fix the upholstery on the frame. Be sure to keep trash bags handy to remove dust and old filler immediately.

Remove all unusable parts and debris

Stage II: carrying out renovation works and replacement of parts that have become unusable. In fact, the restoration of an old but beloved sofa is possible if you choose the right parts. If you notice that cracks have appeared on the beams that form the frame, this indicates that their useful life has come to an end. Replace with solid beams. If you wish, you can order them from a joiner or prepare them yourself. In order for the alteration to be performed efficiently, the joints of the beams should be registered using PVA glue. If you notice broken parts, then they also need to be repaired or put new ones by sawing them out with a jigsaw.

If necessary, it is worth replacing the beams

For their subsequent fixation, the master uses nails or a pneumatic stapler. You will need this tool if you decide to return the furniture to its original appearance. Springs often burst during operation. We repair them by completely replacing the blocks. Sometimes this is the only solution that is suitable in order to normalize the seating of your favorite folding beds.

Stage III: replacement of the filler, which is often foam rubber. Over time, it cakes and becomes unsuitable for further use. We will restore the seat by removing the old material and covering the new one. How to restore the seat? Only in this way, although it can be made easier by leaving the old filler, if it is in a normal state.

Replacing foam rubber is a mandatory step

What we call today furniture hauling, i.e. By replacing its upholstery, it used to belong to the category of furniture and wallpaper craft, and the craftsmen specializing in this occupation were called upholsterers.

This ancient craft was so varied that it required the master to master many different techniques: the upholsterer had to have good taste in order to skillfully select fabrics and quality materials for stuffing; master the basic skills of woodworking; be able to make a beautiful stitch; select the most suitable hauling methods for all types of furniture and much more.
To learn how to pull furniture with our own hands and be able to do it not only beautifully and stylishly, but also with high quality, we will use professional publication late XIX-early XX century.

Materials for furniture constriction

Now, perhaps, it will seem strange, but before a good upholsterer had to be able to repair not only upholstered furniture, but also mattresses, feather beds, pillows. In addition, upholsterers specialized in sewing and hanging curtains, curtains, cornices; knew how to cover tables with cloth; engaged in carpeting, hung paintings on the walls and performed other work related to various interior solutions.

To do his job efficiently, the artisan had to be well versed in the materials used in his work. Typically, all of these materials fall into three categories: padding, roughing and upholstery.

The first category includes everything that serves as furniture padding. So, for example, in the century before last, horsehair from horse tails and manes was considered the best stuffing; also often used camel or deer wool, grass, bast, and for feather beds and mattresses - down and feathers.

For the rough finish, a coarse fabric was used like canvas, sackcloth or serpyanka. If a particularly durable fabric was needed for work, for example, when upholstering spring mattresses or very wide seats, then calico or calico was used. Also for a rough finish, strong twine, jute braid, and harsh threads are needed.

For the front upholstery of mattresses, they usually used a dense cotton fabric - demicotone or striped canvas; upholstery and drapery were performed using silk, velvet, woolen and semi-woolen fabrics, often with leather and morocco.

Basic techniques of furniture uprights

Most often, the upholsterer has to deal with the hauling of furniture, so the master often has to cut or shave off sharp edges wooden frame seats so that it is convenient to drive nails into them when performing a rough fit.

If the padding material cakes, which is often the case when using grass or horsehair, and the thing itself must maintain a certain shape, then such padding is quilted either only along the edges, or the whole of it. If down and feathers are used as stuffing, then they are limited to filling them with a specially prepared cover of the desired shape.

The shape of the stitch directly depends on the type of furniture: the less often a piece of furniture is used, the less dense and frequent the stitch can be; and vice versa - furniture that is in constant use should be quilted more frequently and firmly. Well, the type of stitch will, of course, also depend on the type of stuffing: the grass and bast are quilted with frequent stitches, the hair - with sparse stitches.

Simple mattresses are stitched only along the edges one or two times, and in the center they are only stitched; in the seats of chairs, armchairs and sofas, the upper outer edge is quilted in one or more rows. If there are several such rows. then the stitch starts from the far edge, and for the middle stitch, work begins from the row closest to the edge.

If the rows run parallel to each other, the stitches in adjacent rows should be staggered to give the upholstery strength. Moreover, when performing stitches, they work only with a rough fabric that fits the padding - the filler itself is not affected.

Pillows, mattresses, feather beds

The basics of the ancient craft, with which every student of the upholsterer began his work, implies the ability to make quality pillows, featherbeds and mattresses. To do this, they sewed a bag of the desired shape and size from their canvas or some other dense fabric, turned it inside out, stuffed it with fluff or feathers, and sewed the edges of the product.

To prevent the feathers from pricking and crawling out through the fabric, they were carefully rubbed with yellow wax from the seamy side before work. For the same purpose, it was possible to use such a composition prepared in this way:

1. 150 g of soda is dissolved in 300 ml of hot water;
2. a small amount of molten wax is poured into the resulting solution;
3. the mixture is stirred and diluted with three times the amount of boiling water.

The fabric is completely immersed in the resulting mixture, wrung out, dried, and then immersed in water slightly acidified with a small amount of sulfuric acid and rinsed thoroughly in clean warm water... After ironing with a warm iron, the fabric acquires the necessary density and becomes impervious to down and feathers.

Poor customers preferred as packing feather beds well-dried hay, straw or autumn moss, cleaned from the ground, dried and knocked out with twigs from dust. The straw is laid along the cover in even rows so that its lower ends fall on the end of the feather bed. It is recommended to put a little more padding in the middle than on the edges, because straw during operation is strongly caked and is subsequently compared to the edges.

The simplest are sewn according to the same principle. mattresses stuffing the cover with filler and sewing up the hole. To form the sides, the corners are sewn from the inside out in a straight line equal to the height of the side before the cover is turned inside out.

In a more convenient way, you can sew a mattress if you cut out the upper and lower panels separately, together with four sides.

If the fabric is not enough to cut out the necessary parts, then the sides are cut out separately and then hemmed to the lower panel. After that, the corners are sewn together, which form the sides of the mattress.

In cases where dissimilar materials are used for stuffing - for example, grass and hair, then more than cheap stuff, and the top layer is more expensive.

The stitch of the mattress is carried out first in the middle of the panel, and then along the edges to form the sides. Single narrow fabrics are quilted in three parallel rows; for wider mattresses, the number of rows of stitches increases.

Very often mattresses are not sewn in one piece, but in three parts that can be folded. In this case, each part is sewn separately and after that they are covered with a cloth cut out, as shown in the figure below.

First, the middle part of the mattress, the largest, is placed on the lower panel, then the side parts are substituted and their edges are hemmed to the middle part, after which the entire product is covered with the upper panel and sewn.

Padding of upholstered furniture without springs

The base of the seat of such furniture is usually a dense fabric, tightly stretched and well nailed to wooden frame... The filler is laid on this fabric in neat layers, positioning it in such a way that the center rises slightly above the edges. so that the layers of the filler do not move, they are sewn with large stitches to the rough fabric.

To do this, the filler is covered with a piece of coarse cloth of such a size that it covers the entire seat and the ends of the material can be nailed down. Then, using an awl, the layers of filler are straightened under the fabric and aligned along the edges of the seat. To give these edges a certain strength, they are sewn in the same way as the edges of the mattresses.

The seats of the chairs are stitched equally firmly on three sides; on the armchairs - only one side is firm, and on the two side - weaker and freer; on sofas - firmly on only one front side. With this stitching, the seat is given the appearance of a cushion raised in the middle and in front. When the edges are stitched and the filling is laid in accordance with the shape of the seat, another layer of fabric is applied over this rough finish, with the help of which the shape of the product is finally evened out, correcting minor imperfections.

On top of two layers of fabric with a filling, an outer upholstery fabric is applied and the seat is covered. The fabric is pulled so that not the slightest wrinkle remains, after which it is carefully nailed with wallpaper nails. In the same way, the backrest is made up, only the filler is laid evenly, without the formation of bulges in the center.

Furniture padding on springs

The main difference from the constriction of simple furniture is that in this case the filler is placed not on the canvas stuffed on the bottom of the seat, but on top of a durable canvas located on top of the springs.

In spring furniture, the canvas is likewise stretched over the bottom of the seat - this is done in order to give the springs more stability; sometimes there are springs mounted on a wire frame - most often this is found in the manufacture of mattresses.

To make the seat strong, choose the densest fabric possible, the corners of which are cut to fit the shape of the seat. One edge of the fabric is tucked in and nailed to the front of the seat. Then, pulling the fabric with pincers, nail it to the back, moving from the center to the edges. One side is pulled by hands and its folded edge is nailed, the second side is pulled with pliers and nailed in the same way as the back. If it is necessary to give the product maximum strength, then additional dense braid is stuffed under the canvas.

When replacing springs, follow simple rule: the hardest are placed where the greatest pressure acts, i.e. at the edges and in front; the weakest - where is the smallest, i.e. at the back of the seat. Some upholsterers sometimes wrap the springs with twine - this will help to avoid noise and squeak in the future. The springs are always installed in rows: the middle ones are placed straight, the side ones with a slight slope. But in box-spring mattresses, where body weight is evenly distributed. the arrangement of the springs must be equally even.

The shape of the seats on chairs and armchairs is usually slightly convex, so the middle springs should be 2 turns higher than the rear ones, and the side springs should be one turn higher. This is achieved either by shortening the springs or by tightly lacing them. The springs are mounted on the canvas and attached to it with a strong thread that tightly wraps around the bottom ring. Next, they start lacing.

Lacing springs in upholstered furniture

Lacing is a very important part of the work and requires a lot of attention from the master. The most durable lacing method is considered to be eight-knot, when each spring is wrapped by four twines in eight places. First, all the springs are tied crosswise along the width and length of the frame, and then crosswise from the corners.

To start lacing, take a sturdy string and nail it to a wooden frame. Then, having given the desired position to the spring, the rope is tied to its upper coil. The same is done with the rest of the springs. Then, reaching the opposite side of the frame, the twine is tied to a nail driven halfway into the seat (it is finally driven in only after all the springs are installed and take the desired position).

The prepared springs are covered with a dense fabric, which is well tensioned and nailed to the seat frame. The upper branches of the springs are sewn to this fabric in 3-4 places. Then a layer of filler is laid on top of the material, lightly grabbed with large stitches so that it does not get confused, then this filling is covered with another piece of fabric and the seat is finally formed, quilting it with a curved needle. On the seat prepared in this way, the upper upholstery fabric is applied, straightened, pulled and nailed.

Quilted furniture

Quilted furniture is distinguished by its sophistication in appearance, but when it is pulled, it is quite expensive due to the high consumption of upholstery material and painstaking work. The stitch shape can be different: single and double tubes, shells, stars, scales, but the easiest way is to perform a regular cage stitch.

Typically, the stitching algorithm looks something like this:

After nailing down a dense fabric and putting a little more filler than is customary in usual cases, the furniture is covered with upholstery, but until it is finally nailed down, but only stretched in the desired position;
from the seamy side, along the rough fabric, markings are made of stitches (in some cases, markings are made on the front side);
at a distance of about 15 cm from the edge, parallel to the seat, draw a line BB (see figure)
between the line BB and the line of the upper side of the GG, draw a line BB, which is crossed in the center by the vertical line AA;
the distance between BB and BB will be equal to the desired height of the cage. Usually, for beauty, sizes are used at which the width of the cell relates to its height as 4: 7

After the end of the marking, a nail is driven into each mark on the seamy side, and the stitch is made with a strong thread and a long needle. Pressing the upholstery fabric with your finger in order to feel the tip of the nail, a needle is inserted into the mark from the seamy side and removed from the front, then through the same mark, retreating a small distance, the needle is withdrawn on the seamy side, tighten the stitch and straighten the folds.

When the stitch of the entire marked surface is completed and the errors identified during the work have been eliminated, the upholstery fabric is nailed to the frame, and all the grooves of the cells are decorated with buttons covered with leather or fabric matched to the upholstery.

In this article: how to choose upholstery; how to choose foam rubber; characteristics of foam rubber; how the upholstery of upholstered furniture is carried out; what tools and materials will be needed; the sequence of the upholstery of the sofa-book; change or not change the filler when changing the upholstery; some of the nuances of upholstery.

A sofa, an easy chair, some kind of sofa or ottoman are indispensable items in any apartment or house. They decorate living rooms, where you can sit comfortably and watch TV, read the latest press or your favorite book. Two problems usually arise with upholstered furniture: how best to arrange it and how to replace the upholstery. Family council brainstorming will help you solve the first problem, and this article will help you solve the second problem.

Despite the desire of the owners to preserve the impeccable look of their favorite piece of furniture for as long as possible, many factors interfere with this desire: restless children, pets, hot drinks (they are difficult to hold in their hands), neighbors from above (periodically flooded), redecorating(and how did the cement get under the film on the chair?), etc. In other words, the upholstery takes on an unpresentable look and you need to do something about it. The solution to the problem is to do-it-yourself furniture hauling. Doubt that you will succeed? How will it work out - after all, the work of the master is afraid!

Foam mats used for upholstering furniture differ in three parameters: thickness of the mat, density and hardness. The optimal thickness of the foam mat should be: for the seat and backrest - at least 40 mm; to add volume to the sides of the sofa (chair), 20 mm thickness is enough. Repair of upholstered furniture is carried out with foam rubber with a density of 25 to 30 units. (or kg / m3) - for backs and more than 30 units. - for seats with a hardness of up to 46 units.

Its service life depends on the density and stiffness of the foam rubber - the lower the density, the higher the tendency of the foam rubber to crumbling and deformation during physical exertion. Higher rigidity increases the wear resistance of the filler, but decreases its elasticity. Therefore, in the upholstery of furniture for seats, foam rubber of two different types stiffness: a harder first layer, then a layer with less rigidity.

In addition to foam rubber and upholstery fabric, you will need a rough cotton fabric or canvas - it is covered with foam rubber and only after that the upholstery fabric is attached. This creates a double dust barrier.

How to calculate the right amount of material for upholstery

The required amount of foam rubber is determined after measurements of the places for its laying on the sidewalls, backrest and seat. Upholstery fabric and canvas are required in the same quantity, the total footage is determined after measuring the old upholstery. It is necessary to purchase materials in larger quantities than is actually required - by about 10-15%. So you can protect yourself from mistakes in the calculations and the drawing can be adjusted.

Stage one

We disassemble the sofa-book for constituent elements... To do this, you need to disconnect the sidewalls by unscrewing the fasteners between them and the frame. We remove the sidewalls to the side and disconnect the seat and backrest from the frame. We remove the locking mechanism from the back and seat, separating them from each other. In the process of disassembling the sofa into elements, a digital camera will come in handy - before dismantling, take a photo of the fastening procedure, this will greatly facilitate the reassembly after the furniture upholstery is completed.

Unfasten the upholstery on the sides - it is usually stapled at the bottom facing the floor. To remove the staples, use a minus (flat) screwdriver and round-nose pliers - you need to pry the bracket and remove it with round-nose pliers. Do not cut the old upholstery - loosen and pull it off the side of the sofa. Under the old upholstery there will be either a layer of foam rubber, or cotton batting or synthetic winterizer, connected to the wooden (plywood) base of the sidewall with glue or staples. If you are satisfied with the state of this layer, you can leave it unchanged. Nevertheless, if the sofa has been in your family for a long time (more than 7-10 years), then its filler is unlikely to be in good condition and various insects could well have settled in its contents.

Suppose that you still decide to replace the sofa filler - it must be completely removed from the sides. You don't need to be careful here - rip it off without ceremony. Inspect each side panel: remove the remaining staples and pieces of filler without touching the fastening screws that connect the side panels to the base of the sofa.

So, you have completely exposed the base of the sidewalls - it's time to think if you want to change their appearance, for example, give them volume. To get the volumetric (rounded) sides of the sofa, you need foam rubber with a thickness of 20-40 mm. Do not put foam rubber from the inner, invisible from above part of the sidewalls, otherwise it will be difficult to connect them to the frame.

Put the sidewall on a sheet of foam rubber with its outer (outer) side and with a wallpaper knife make a pattern so that the foam covers the entire outer side of the sidewall and 45-50% of the inner side (i.e., the section of the sidewall from the top to the sofa seat). On the left and right, make an allowance of about 70-80 mm to wrap the sidewall from the ends. Then pull and wrap the foam rubber along the ends of the sidewall, securing it with staples using a construction stapler. Next, fix the foam rubber at the bottom of the front side and, wrapping it around the top of the sidewall and pulling it, secure it from the inside. Now it's the sailcloth turn - place the foam-covered sidewall on the unfolded canvas and cut it open with scissors. The canvas should completely cover the entire layer of foam rubber, it must be fastened from the bottom, then pulled, wrapped over the top and secured with staples. Then pull and fasten on the sides - first one side, then pull and fasten the other.

If you decide not to add volume to the sidewalls using foam rubber, put cotton batting or synthetic winterizer on them in one layer, followed by covering with canvas. A line of upholstery fabric - it must be cut out using the old upholstery as a template, then sewn and put on the sidewalls, pulling tightly and securing with staples from below. When cutting new upholstery, be sure to match the pattern on both sides, do not confuse the wrong side and the right side of the upholstery fabric. The larger, due to the laid foam rubber, the volume of the sidewalls must be taken into account when cutting the material, slightly increasing the size of the patterns.

Furniture restoration - back and seat line of a sofa-book

Move the finished sidewalls to the side so that they do not interfere, placing them vertically. Start from the seat - carefully remove the old upholstery, remove the filler, exposing the spring block. Inspect the springs: if they are damaged, replace them. If the wooden seat frame is loose or defective, replace them and reinforce the frame using furniture screws of sufficient length.

Lay a thick fabric on the spring block, attaching it in several places to the block with a coarse thread and a needle. Lay the foam - first a layer of hard foam, then softer - across the frame and the spring block installed on it. Attach the foam to the front of the wood frame, pull over the spring block and secure to the back of the frame, then to the sides. Next, you need to cover the foam rubber with a canvas cloth, attaching it to the front of the frame, pulling it and securing it on its back side - pull it with some force, avoiding folds. Fasten the canvas at one end of the frame, stretch and secure at the other end. When you have cut new upholstery based on the old one, take into account the larger amount of filling. A variant of the upholstery solution - without making a cut for the old upholstery, fasten and tighten the new upholstery fabric in the same way as the previous canvas, i.e. fixing it in front of the wooden frame, and then pulling it tightly and securing it at the back, just also fix it on the sides.

Backrest upholstery

It is made similar to the seat upholstery, but with some reservations. When laying the filler, hard foam rubber is not used, only soft foam. The foam layer is attached only to the upper part of the wooden frame and is not displayed on the lower one - it must be cut along the edge of the spring block. Why is this done - if you remove the backrest foam from edge to edge of the wooden frame, then it will either not be possible to unfold / fold the sofa-book after collection at all, or it will be extremely difficult - the volumetric foam will completely block the gap between the seat and back flaps.

If you remove the layer of foam rubber from edge to edge of the wooden frame only on the sofa seat, then the remaining gap will be sufficient to unfold / fold the sofa. When hauling furniture with your own hands, be sure to pay attention to this nuance. Let me remind you again - watch out for the coincidence of the pattern of the upholstery on the seat and back!

Padding of furniture - the final stage

All elements of the sofa-book are covered and ready to assemble. Inspect the main frame of the sofa by replacing the damaged parts and strengthening the loose ones using furniture screws and PVA glue (it is better to use PVA dispersion - it is more saturated). In the process of upholstering furniture with your own hands, final assembly piece of upholstered furniture is one of the most difficult stages.

It is necessary to install and fix the locking mechanism, making sure that it is stable fastening - if necessary, bore the holes in it for screws with a larger diameter and fix the locking mechanism frames to them. When connecting the back and seat of the sofa to each other, force is required. If it is not possible to connect, then the layer of foam rubber between them is too large - carefully unfasten the upholstery and canvas on the inside of the seat frame and cut off part of the foam rubber with a wallpaper knife, i.e. reduce its volume. Tighten and secure the canvas and upholstery one by one, then try to connect the back and seat with the locking mechanism - everything should work out.

Install the backrest and seat of the sofa, connected to each other, on the main frame, make sure that they are fastened properly. Then attach first one, then the other side. Check the folding / unfolding sofa, if necessary, slightly loosen / tighten the fasteners.

That's all, the work is over, the stretching of the sofa is completed - we put it in its proper place and use it along with other pieces of upholstered furniture.

This article describes the process of stretching a sofa-book, as one of the most difficult objects of work on changing the upholstery and filler. The upholstery of an armchair, sofa and any other piece of upholstered furniture is carried out in almost the same way.

Abdyuzhanov Rustam, specially for RMNT.ru

Sooner or later, any furniture needs updating. Do you think this is difficult? No! And now we will prove it to you.

In most cases, upholstered furniture requires replacing the upholstery material, so after that, proceed to repair your favorite sofa or rare armchair. And believe me, you can do it yourself.

Tools and materials

Upholstery materials

Like any other job, this one also starts with the necessary preparation, acquiring the right materials, finding the tools and preparing the workplace.

From the tools you will need:

• a set of Phillips and flathead screwdrivers for removing old fasteners - staples, screws, screws;
• several keys, if the furniture parts are assembled with bolts;
• pliers or pliers;
• a stapler to pull on the new upholstery;
• a small hammer and small furniture nails;
• sewing machine, needles and threads to match the material.

Advice! When choosing upholstery, pay attention to its density and quality. Consider the stretch ability of the fabric, depending on the filling. Then select its texture, color and pattern, suitable for the interior design of your apartment.

By pulling the furniture yourself, you have the opportunity to completely change its design. Everything here will depend on the number of upholstery layers and on the chosen filler - cotton wool, batting, padding polyester, foam rubber, down, horsehair, coconut fibers, polymer materials.

The choice of material with which it is best to cover it depends on what kind of padding will be inside your sofa or armchair. If foam rubber is placed inside, the upholstery should have a medium tensile force, fluff or cotton wool - weak. Not the last place in making a final decision belongs to.

The optimal and popular option, realized in a very wide variety, is tapestry. They possess best performance and practicality.

Jacquard and velor are also in demand. If you like artificial materials for the repair of upholstered furniture, for example, leatherette, be sure to pay attention to its quality. It should not smell harsh and unpleasant. The price of the selected fabric is formed not only from quality, but also from the brand.

So that nothing bothers you, the furniture must be disassembled, the sidewalls, the seat (lounger) and the back are dismantled.

Advice! If you are planning to pull up a set of upholstered furniture, consisting of armchairs and a sofa, start small. Thus, you will get your hands on and in practice you will understand what's what.

About repair

Fixing the material

Please select workplace, clean it of anything that might interfere with you, and start disassembling the sofa or chair. Remove fasteners - nails or staples.

Removing the upholstery

Hook them up with a screwdriver and then pull them out with pliers.

Remove the upholstery carefully. Do not throw it away, it will become your template for the new upholstery pattern.

Cut open

Attach the old fabric to the new fabric from the inside out and outline the outline with a tailor's chalk or a narrow piece of laundry soap. Be sure to leave a 2-3 cm allowance.

Note! You should not skimp on this, it is better to make the allowance a little more than to find out later that the workpiece is smaller than it should be and the whole thing is ruined.

Cut out your blank. Overcast the edges with a typewriter or overlock to prevent cutting.

When all the blanks have been cut out, the filler has been restored, you can proceed directly to the hauling of the furniture.

Padding

Start the hauling from the front and gently move back. Thus, you will be able to hide all excess material and its folds.

Self-study guide for furniture repair

When hugging the seat of the sofa, start in the middle of it and move to the sides. Tuck the excess inward, and if there are a lot of them, cut it off. Excessive stretching of the fabric will shorten its lifespan.

If you fix the upholstery to the furniture using self-tapping screws, screw them so that they enter the frame to a depth of at least 2-2.5 cm.

A good alternative to screws and nails is a construction stapler. When choosing a tool, give preference to trusted manufacturers and models with a durable spring system.

Summing up

We hope our article was useful to you. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website provides detailed photo and video instructions, in which you will find useful information on this issue.