We all often find ourselves wanting something new in the familiar interior of the house. Usually on the surface lies the simplest way- rearrangement of furniture. But it does not always give the desired result. And then an idea comes to mind: you need to change the furniture itself, and not its location in the room.

But how often can we afford to throw out old things and buy new ones? Moreover, many pieces of furniture may not be within the power of the family budget.

We know a much more economical and simpler way to change and refresh the interior of your home. This is the painting of old furniture.

Required materials and tools

The often beloved Soviet-style furniture is made of such high quality that it can serve for many more years, which cannot be said about modern models... Plus, vintage home furnishings are more in vogue than ever. Therefore, painting it is the best solution.

How to paint furniture without noise and dust, and not turn an apartment into an object of painting production, smelling of toxic agents? To do this, we need to stock up on the necessary tools and materials.

For painting work you need:

• A piece of furniture that needs painting;
• Masking tape;
• Gloves;
• Dye;
• Roller and brushes;
• Paint tray.

Before proceeding with painting, the surface of the furniture must be prepared. This requires:

• Putty;
• Roller and brushes;
• Paint tray;
• Gloves;
• Protective glasses;
• Fine-grain emery paper;
• Rubber spatula;
• Grinder or block of wood.

Having prepared everything you need in advance, you can get to work. Before you paint the furniture, you need to prepare it to avoid further mistakes.

How to prepare furniture for painting

Proper surface preparation will ensure a quality finish that shines in the sun and delights the eye.

1. First, carefully inspect the furniture that you are going to restore for minor damage. If necessary, repair or replace the installed mechanisms:. The peeling particles of the old varnish must be removed. Remove the doors, take out the drawers and unscrew the handles and locks from the outside.
2. Sand the surface (both glossy and matte) with fine-grained sandpaper. It is such a skin that will not leave deep scratches that will be difficult to cover with a primer or paint. For more convenience, you can use a sander.
3. First, you need to cover the surface of the furniture with a primer, and after that, with the help of a putty, close up problem areas. This will ensure good adhesion of the materials. Degrease the surface with vodka or alcohol - they do not leave a slippery film.
4. Apply so that it is well saturated with any minor damage, scratches, cracks. It is better to use a brush for this. Wait until it is completely dry.
5. Using a rubber trowel, put putty on the defects of the furniture and coat thoroughly.
6. After the putty is dry, sand the areas where you applied it. This should be done with a grinder or fine-grained sandpaper stretched over a block. Depending on how deep the defects were and what layer of putty you applied, this operation may need to be repeated several times.
7. When this work is completed, get rid of the dust on the surface and prime.

Tip: When buying a primer, try to choose a shade that is as close as possible to the color in which you want your furniture to be. This will not only provide an even color, but also save on paint costs.

What paint to paint the furniture with?

Varnishes that are now used for painting are of the following types:

• Alcohol;
• Epoxy;
• Alkyd;
• Nitrocellulose;
• Oil;
• Polyurethane.

Varnish, in contrast to paint, creates a surface with higher hardness and durability. But if you are deciding what paint to paint your furniture with, then make a choice from the assortment below.

• 1. Acrylic paints are traditionally used among furniture paints. They are more resilient than others, dry quickly, are easy to use, and work well in the kitchen or children's room. In addition, acrylic paints have a less pronounced odor and are easily diluted with water, which saves material.
  2. Acrylic paints in spray cans will greatly simplify and facilitate your work. Such paint lays on the surface easily and evenly, and dries faster than usual, applied with a brush or roller.
  3. Enamel varnish paints applied to wood give the surface a shine and gloss. If you want a matte effect, then oil paints will help you.
  4. Transparent paints will help you to keep natural. The assortment of the gamut is very large, and the consistency allows you to mix different shades with each other, so that you always have a choice in what color to paint your furniture.

Do-it-yourself painting of furniture (for example, a wooden kitchen cabinet)

You probably have furniture at home that you would like to update. Most often it is - kitchen cabinets because they are particularly vulnerable to moisture and mechanical stress.

Let's try to paint on the example of such a kitchen cabinet. with my own hands and you make sure to paint old furniture actually quite simple at home.

Please note: if you buy kitchen cabinets without finishing, then most likely it will be birch furniture. Such wood has a fine-grained structure, and stain looks great on it. For example, applying a cherry stain can easily achieve cherry color.

Stage 1: sand the wood. This is an important preparation step. Take a 120-grit sandpaper and lightly sand the wood in the direction of the texture to avoid scratching the surface. Sand again with 220 grit to remove any minor scratches and smooth the surface.

Stage 2: we apply impregnation to the wood. Before doing this, thoroughly wipe the dust off the surface. The applied impregnation layer acts as a sealant and contributes to a more uniform coloring. Allow the impregnation to dry completely.

Stage 3: apply the stain. It is best to apply it with a brush, in a circular motion, so that the product is rubbed into the texture of the wood. Make the final pass in the direction of the wood grain so that the final finish is even.

How to paint old furniture?

You probably have a lot of old furniture left, which is a pity to throw away, and nowhere to put. She gathers dust in the country, in the garage, in the barn. And many pieces of such furniture are very comfortable, lightweight and inexpensive material. Give them new life you can simply paint it in a different color and refresh the coating. In addition, the reconstruction by painting will significantly strengthen the surface, which is susceptible to various damage due to its technical characteristics.

Before painting chipboard furniture, it must be carefully prepared. There are two ways to clean the surface:

1. Chemical method. It involves the use of special chemicals to remove the old coating. You need to choose such a tool depending on the type of past coating. Be sure to use gloves when working.
2. Thermal method. In this case, the treatment is carried out with hot air or steam. To do this, you need a building hair dryer. Point it towards the surface and hold until the paint or varnish coat softens so that it can be easily removed with a scraper.

After cleaning, the surface must be plastered and rubbed with emery.

The easiest way to paint old chipboard furniture is to use it in spray cans. You will do it faster, and the layer on the surface will turn out to be even and smooth. Oil or alkyd paints can also be a great option.

Tip: If you use brushes when painting furniture, then it is better to buy new ones. Pay attention to how firmly the bristles hold. If hairs begin to fall out during use, this will have a very bad effect on the quality of the coating.

Interesting interior solutions (what color to paint the furniture)

As you know, old furniture is painted not only to update, but also to match the interior. Fashion trends in home design can go well even with the old Soviet wall, if you work on it a little.

It is enough to repaint such a wall, using the guide in our article, and play with the arrangement of its elements.

The most important thing is to decide in advance in what style it will be sustained. And even the classic Romanian wall of the 80s, long boring and unfashionable, can be turned into a multi-level, fully functional part of the room, and not just a piece of furniture.

In the photos below, you can see examples of how you can arrange the old wall to match the new fashion trends in design. Notice how the new color of the furniture and its fittings is in harmony with the color of the walls in the room.

Here you can see the old wall, which has been repainted in a different color:

And here are the solutions for how to rearrange the wall elements:

These photos will help you decide how you want your renovated furniture to look.

Painting furniture, like any job, has its own secrets. They will not only help you get through the process faster, but also save money and ensure perfect execution.

1. Choose materials (primer, putty, varnish, paint) from a single source. In this case, they will be guaranteed to be compatible with each other. Most often, the manufacturer develops, in accordance with the operating conditions. This will make it easier for you to choose the optimal material.
2. Don't be afraid to play with colors. Correctly selected colors will help to visually enlarge the space. The contrast between the colors of furniture and walls will create a unique style in the room in any direction.
3. Before starting work, be sure to stock up on a roller and several brushes of different thicknesses. With the help of a roller, it is more convenient to paint wide surfaces, and brushes are needed to paint the ends of furniture parts and finishing accessories.
4. Use. It will help you protect already painted and dried surfaces from the ingress of paint. It is not very convenient to use a solvent in such cases - it will damage the paint layer. Masking tape will save you from such mistakes.
5. When painting, use a respirator mask or thoroughly ventilate the area! Although most modern paints and varnishes are non-toxic and do not emit harsh odors, the precaution is never overwhelming.

Furniture painting video

We hope you find this article helpful when you decide to update your furniture in a simple way like painting. As you can see, in this way you can completely transform the whole house, and not just the closet or wall.

If you have any questions while reviewing, please ask them in the comments. We will be happy to answer you. Surely many of our readers have experience in such work. Share it with us, tell us about the features of the process, what difficulties you faced and how you solved them. Good luck with your work and comfort in your home!

In this article, you will learn:

Most people at home have old furniture that has been carefully stored for many years, which is a pity to throw away. And some buy unpainted wooden furniture, trying to save money. Therefore, putting furniture in order, refreshing its appearance and applying a protective layer are very urgent tasks. Paints for wooden furniture perfectly cope with all these problems. Choosing such paints, you need to understand their varieties and features, and the dyeing process itself requires certain knowledge. Let's find out more about paints for wooden furniture.

Types of paints for wooden furniture

It's easier to say which paints are definitely not suitable for wooden furniture and other surfaces in everyday life. As for the result of using paints and varnishes for wooden furniture, there are several types of such funds:

Transparent coatings

These are waxes, varnishes, stains, impregnations and glazes for wooden furniture. There are both colorless and with the addition of coloring pigments.

For funds of this type, the following properties are characteristic:

• they do not hide the texture of the wood, but, on the contrary, emphasize it, making it more noticeable;
• do not interfere with the exchange of moisture between the wooden surface of the furniture and environment due to high vapor permeability;
• protect wood from fading due to sunlight, protect furniture from external damage.

If you need to paint new or well-preserved wooden furniture, then optimal solution there will be impregnations and varnishes, not paints. Such furniture will perfectly fit into classic interior and will delight lovers of eco-style.

Keep in mind that when reworking, you do not need to remove the old varnish or impregnation layer, just paint over the wood over it. With covering paints, the opposite is true.

Water-borne paints

Water-based dispersion paints (where water acts as a solvent) and resin-based paints (which are binder) have gained in popularity in recent years. And this is not surprising, because water-based paints for wooden furniture have many advantages:

• they are quick-drying;
• do not emit toxic fumes (therefore, they are suitable for painting wooden furniture in a nursery);
• vapor permeable and water resistant;
• differ in properties (they are glossy or matte, glazing or covering);
• convenient in tinting (the desired shade of paint is obtained by adding pigments);
• the dried layer of paint is frost-resistant.

The last feature is very important. The painted wooden surface is resistant to cold weather, however, the paint itself deteriorates when it freezes (the resulting ice breaks the structure of the emulsion), therefore, it is necessary to store paints of this type in a warm place.

Enamels and paints on organic solvents

These compositions were in great demand a few years ago, but now they are being actively replaced by water-based paints for wooden surfaces.

And this is not surprising if you know about such characteristic features organic paints and enamels, such as:

• toxicity;
• flammability;
• unpleasant pungent odor during work;
• slow drying.

But these funds also have their advantages. Firstly, it is cheap: the price for organic paints and enamels is lower than for acrylic paints for wooden furniture. Secondly, this type of product forms a water-repellent film on the surface of the wood, and furniture made from it can be used in places with high humidity.

True, such films do not allow air to pass through either, the wood under them does not breathe. But this is not critical for furniture made of dry wood (but if the wood is damp, the layer of paint or enamel will crack and fall off very soon).

Benefits of acrylic paint

The most popular option is a quick-drying, odorless acrylic paint for wooden furniture. It does not pose a danger to the human body and is not capable of causing a fire, and the damage in case of its sudden ignition is insignificant. These properties make paints acrylic base universal for any materials, including wooden textures.

According to experts, acrylic paints have high adhesion - they adhere perfectly to wood and materials made from it, and specifically to:

• Chipboard;
• OSB;
• MDF;
• plywood.

This is a serious plus of such compositions, especially important in those cases when the surface is painted without preliminary priming.

Acrylic based paints are always white. How to achieve the desired shade? It's very simple: to purchase a color scheme in the same hardware store - a special composition that is added to the paint to give it the desired shade.

Many acrylic paints for wood furniture include antiseptic components that protect the wood from mold and mildew. They significantly extend the life of the furniture.

Modern hardware stores offer even more advanced options for acrylic paints - with the addition of water and dirt repellents. These additives reduce the need for cleaning wood surfaces.

Latex based water-based paint

It is generally accepted that for wooden furniture the best paint is oily. But this type of product has an extremely pungent odor and requires special conditions for staining (that is, it is undesirable to paint wooden furniture at home, it is dangerous to health).

However, a similar effect can be obtained using a latex-based aqueous emulsion. This decision is not widely known. Latex water emulsion penetrates deeply into the structure of wood, forming a water-repellent film that reliably protects furniture from getting wet and allows you to wash it with a wet cloth.

One of the main advantages water-based paints for latex-based wooden furniture, it is not necessary to worry about the bubbles that form when the paint dries. The water emulsion allows air to pass through, no bubbles will appear.

However, latex water emulsions are not universal. They do not tolerate low temperatures: the paint layer begins to crack from frost. Therefore, it is better not to use wooden furniture painted with such paint outdoors and in rooms that are actively ventilated during the cold season.

Silicone water-based paint

In that coloring composition includes organosilicon (silicone) and acrylic copolymers, which provide the paint with all the advantages of both substances:

• resistance to friction and water;
• vapor permeability;
• high elasticity, allowing to paint over cracks up to 2 mm on the wood surface;
• the paint layer is not damaged by microorganisms;
• persistent color (not yellowing over time);
• no bubbles, cracks;
• repulsion of dust particles, dirt.

Silicone water emulsion is rightfully considered one of the most durable paints for wooden furniture without a pungent odor. As a rule, it is used to cover facades and external walls of houses, but it is also quite suitable for painting furniture and provides products with a long service. Ideal for wooden furniture in rooms with high humidity.

Silicone paint is quite expensive. However, considering that it protects wooden and other surfaces and extends their service life and has many other advantages, it can be considered a profitable investment in interior renovation.

What paint is better to paint wooden furniture

When choosing paint for wooden furniture, pay attention to:

1. Where the furniture will be used. In damp rooms, it is allowed to paint wooden surfaces only with waterproof compounds.
2. The type of wood from which the piece of furniture is made. It is better to complement expensive, noble wood species with a transparent coating that will demonstrate all the beauty of its texture.
3. The ability to paint the surface again.
4. Compatibility of the composition with the coating that is already on the furniture.

How to choose odorless wood paint for the intended purpose

Paints for wooden furniture are not only made on a different basis (binder), but also differ in purpose. An improperly selected coating will quickly disappoint the owners of furniture and can even harm the microclimate in the room where it stands.

Glazing compositions for internal works- transparent paints that emphasize the wood pattern. For tinting wooden furniture, you can use dyes on water based... If the painted wood needs to be given shine, use special varnishes that will also protect the wood from external mechanical influences.

Varnishes are used for finishing:

• skirting boards;
• floors;
• panels;
• doors;
• window frames;
• slopes;
• wooden furniture.

For houses completely built of timber and not lined with other materials, acrylic paint for wood is best suited for interior work. It masks all irregularities, small cracks and protrusions on the walls, while having excellent throughput. Free passage of air through the paint film allows wooden walls ventilate and keep dry. Materials imitating timber can also be painted with acrylic paint.

For painting wooden furniture sets and walls of kitchens, nurseries, it is better to choose products labeled "Eco Label" - they are environmentally friendly and safe. As for the decoration of children's rooms, the most suitable option will paint all walls with easily washable acrylic paint. You can decorate the walls with stencils. The main thing is to carefully study the composition of the paint when buying: it should not contain toxic substances that are dangerous to the child's body. Perhaps this is the most difficult moment in the repair and decoration of nurseries: to figure out which paints are safe, and which ones are better to refuse.

Latex and acrylic based paints are suitable for kitchens and bathrooms, while rubber paints are suitable for wooden floors. For these premises, the presence of fungicidal additives in paints is very important. An additional requirement is imposed on paint for kitchens: surfaces painted with it must repel grease and dirt in order to ensure easy cleaning of the room.

Hallways, corridors, etc. are spaces with high traffic, where all planes are constantly subjected to mechanical stress. Abrasion resistant acrylic latex paint mixtures will be the most suitable solution.

In the bathroom and kitchen, abrasion-resistant latex paints are also useful, both for floors and walls, and for furniture, including wood. The main thing is that they protect the material from moisture.

Household, utility rooms also need finishing. Since the aesthetic requirements for such rooms are rather modest, you can choose the cheapest paints for them - acrylic, vinyl compositions for wooden furniture and interior work. But where clothes are dried or washed, surfaces should be painted with the same means as in kitchens and bathrooms.

How to use wood furniture paint correctly

Now let's take a step-by-step look at the process of preparing wooden furniture for painting. You will need a number of materials and tools.

1. We recommend using wood paint removers to remove layers of old paint. They are sold in car stores. Such compositions quickly, in minutes, and carefully remove the old coating. Due to their gel consistency, they spread easily over the surface and do not flow. Remember to wear a respirator when starting work. There is also an alternative, more traditional way removing layers of paints, varnishes, etc. - sanding with sandpaper or grinder... The veneer initially has a smooth and even texture, but it can lose its shine due to grinding, so decide right away whether a matte surface suits you or if you need to achieve a glossy shine (in the latter case, the veneer is varnished).
2. Use a small trowel to remove paint residues from wide, flat surfaces, and a medium-hard metal brush to clean the sides and corners.
3. You will also need a synthetic brush and a velor roller, which can be purchased at all hardware stores. Experienced craftsmen recommend applying acrylic paints with paint brushes that are sold in art stores (it is impossible to paint the surface with a regular construction brush as accurately and without traces).
4. Prepare additional materials and accessories: sandpaper, sander, gloves.
5. Dismantle all removable decor and fittings from a wooden piece of furniture, remove all handles and locks, remove drawers from cabinets and cupboards, remove cabinet doors from hinges.

Preparing furniture for painting

Start removing old paint from wood furniture. Pour a small amount of car cleaner into a glass jar, then use a construction brush to thoroughly brush the entire surface of the furniture with this product, especially generously - the corners and sides. Let the composition dry for a couple of minutes, apply a second layer of remover, and then immediately begin to remove it with a spatula. This method will remove all the old paint layer down to the wood itself, and it is much faster and easier than sanding the wood surface.

Then take an iron brush and scrape the paint off the sides and corners of the furniture. The main part of the old paint has been removed, it remains to process the sides and corners with a small piece of emery sponge. With the help of a grinder, this is done even faster, and the surface is more uniform and smoother. After that, wipe the wooden surface with a wet rag to remove the remnants of dust and sawdust, dry it - and you can paint.

Be sure to make sure that there are no irregularities, chips, etc. on the furniture before you start painting it. All defects must be putty and then treated with grout, and uneven surfaces can be leveled with a primer. If the furniture is in good condition and does not need these improvements, let's move on.

Painting process

So, you bought and prepared paint, as well as a synthetic brush and a velor roller. For perfect staining of wooden furniture, start from the side surfaces using a fine brush. It is necessary to paint as quickly as possible, actively moving the brush from side to side - the paint dries quickly. After the sides and corner areas, we move on to wide surfaces.

Apply paint to them with a roller (also quickly so that the paint dries in an even layer). We leave the first layer to dry (for at least 20 minutes), and during this time it is advisable to close the container with paint and wrap the roller with polyethylene, not to leave it in the air.

See how the first layer turned out: if there are any roughness, burrs, dimples. Remove protruding irregularities with soft sandpaper.

We begin to apply the next layer in the same way, from the side and corner areas, and then paint the main areas of the wooden furniture. If the shade turned out to be bright and uniform enough, you can limit yourself to two layers.

However, sometimes a third and final coat of paint is required. Don't forget to wait 20 minutes after you're done with the second - it should dry out too. To achieve a glossy shine, the surface can be varnished as a finish.

Throughout the history of mankind, there have been many different technologies work with wood, however, any of them obeys the same rules: first, preparation and preliminary surface treatment, then the actual painting, after that - the finishing layer, and then the assembly of furniture, installation of the necessary accessories and fasteners.

The bulk of the work is completed on this, and you can already rejoice at the result. Let the paint (and varnish, if used) dry well, then put back all the fasteners and decor, insert the boxes, install the shelves.

After that, the updated piece of furniture can take its assigned place in the interior.

The reason for repainting old wooden furniture may be not only the need to renew the coating, but also the desire to change it. appearance... Even an old, out-of-fashion Soviet or Romanian wall can fit into modern room and become a functional and stylish part of the interior, if you make it a competent redesign.

First you need to decide what the new interior of the room will be, in what style it will be sustained.

See examples of furniture arrangement with participation old wall... Here she not only fits into the overall color range rooms, but also looks quite modern and relevant. By the way, both wooden walls from the examples in the photo were repainted.

Here are some more options with partial rearrangement of wall elements.

Look for inspiration in examples and choose new colors and décor to update old wood furniture.

Painting wooden furniture, like any other job, has its own specifics and tricks. The tips below will help you not only paint your furniture faster, but also save paint by achieving a high quality result.

1. Buy products - varnishes, paints, putties, primers - from one manufacturer. This guarantees their compatibility, since manufacturers of finishing materials usually specialize in certain types of surfaces and take into account their operating conditions. This will make the choice easier. suitable paint and other means.
2. Experiment with shades and color combinations. A well-chosen color scheme refreshes the room and visually enlarges it. In interiors different styles the contrast technique is very popular: furniture is painted in a color that contrasts with the walls.
3. Before starting to paint on wood furniture, prepare a roller and several brushes of varying thicknesses. The roller is useful for painting large flat surfaces, and small embossed details - furniture ends, decoration, convex decor - it is best to paint with brushes.
4. Apply masking tape to protect areas that have already been painted and dried from paint splashes. The solvent will not help in this case, but will only spoil the main layer of paint.
5. For a while painting works wear a respirator mask or take care of high-quality ventilation of the room. Many of the modern wood furniture paints are odorless and non-toxic, but caution is always best when working with construction chemicals.

Where to buy paint for wooden furniture

JSC "Raduga" has been operating since 1991 (formerly "Tsentrmebelkomplekt", "Decor-1"). The firm was organized to supply raw materials to enterprises that are part of ZAO "Centromebel".

Today, the company's regular business partners are not only Russian manufacturers, but also leading companies from Germany, Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland, Finland, Poland, Sweden. Our office is located in the center of Moscow, as well as our own warehouse complex with an exhibition hall of 200 m².

In our warehouses located in the near Moscow region, there is always a large selection of raw materials, materials and components for the production of furniture and joinery. The assortment includes more than 300 types of varnishes and 400 types of dyes, the emphasis is placed on the sale of varnishes and dyes with a solid residue.

At the request of customers, our team produces polyurethane enamels of almost all colors in one or two days. We offer adhesives from five leading European manufacturers, natural veneer and sawn timber - more than 60 names of common, exotic and exclusive species. Front and fastening fittings are constantly available - more than 4000 items from manufacturers from Europe: Austria, Poland, Germany, etc.

Every month we process requests from over 1,800 clients. These include both large furniture factories and private entrepreneurs.

The goods are delivered throughout Russia. Our company delivers goods in Moscow for free. Products are shipped by road to all regions of Russia.

Our company is serious about training its own specialists. Managers systematically undergo training in the companies engaged in the production of finishing materials in Germany, Italy, Austria, Finland. Employees of our company provide technical assistance to customers.

We invite you to cooperate on mutually beneficial terms! We value our clients and try to find an individual approach to each customer.

Modern interior items very quickly go out of fashion or lose their attractiveness, but acquiring new ones is not always possible. In this connection, the question arises: how to repaint furniture made of chipboard with your own hands so that the product acquires an attractive appearance? This is not always easy to do, because the result is influenced not only by right choice materials and technology, but also the accuracy of the process.

Do-it-yourself painting of old furniture is a difficult and risky procedure. The fact is that for the manufacture of interior items (cabinets, chests of drawers, kitchen modules), processed materials with a decorative layer are used. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of coverage in order to draw up a work plan.

Chipboards used in furniture production, can be of the following types:

There are other types of slabs, but they are not so common.

How to paint old furniture

To paint boring or defective interior items, you need to choose a composition suitable for these purposes. The main recommendation when choosing is to refuse cheap options.

Furniture paint from chipboard should be chosen, taking into account the characteristics of the compositions:

1. Oil. Famous brands should be preferred. A significant drawback is unpleasant and toxic fumes, besides, the drying period of the solution is quite long. It is necessary to lay such a mixture in thin layers, which is why the material is rarely used.
2. Acrylic. Modern version water-dispersed paints. The composition has many positive qualities, which makes it in demand. But when working with chipboard, it is necessary to purchase a solution with increased adhesion and not dilute it with water.
3. Alkyd. This option is much preferable to oil. The products are suitable for painting furniture, but the work is carried out in well-ventilated rooms due to the specific smell of the composition.

Of the three proposed, the best is acrylic paint, oil is affordable, and alkyd enamel is considered the golden mean.

On a note! For tinting or decorating small areas, spray paint is used. For example, a bedside table will require one or two containers.

Chipboard can be repainted with other types of compositions. Stain is used only for tinting veneer material. The varnish serves to fix the decorative layer, it can act as an independent composition, but this will require complex preparation of the base. For work, it is better to use a quick-drying variety.

An obligatory element of the coating is a primer, the composition must have good adhesion.

Without soil, none decorative coating not applied on chipboard

How to paint chipboard

Painting chipboard furniture involves two main steps:

• preparatory stage;
• painting works.

On a note! When deciding on painting chipboard, it should be borne in mind that the end result, even if all the nuances are observed, does not always correspond to expectations.

It is convenient to paint chipboard from an aerosol can, especially if you need to make a stencil pattern

Tool selection

Various tools can be used to work:

• Spray gun. Due to the fact that furniture parts made of wood-based material have a flat base, it is this device that is the best option... When sprayed, the paint can be applied more evenly. The main problem of using such a tool is the correct selection of the distance. In the case of erroneous calculations, streaks and sagging are formed.
• Roller. This device is most often used at home. It is not always easy to paint with a roller, since the applied layer must have a small thickness, otherwise sagging will become noticeable. To paint furniture, tools with a medium-length fur coat are used.
• Foam sponge. Suitable for tinting and painting well-primed elements, it allows you to get a uniform coating, but subject to the utmost care.

When restoring old furniture, you can get by with an affordable tool

Brushes for such a process are rarely used, their main purpose is decoration. They allow you to create the effect of antiquity, but if a base coat was previously applied to hide the base.

On a note! When repainting an old table or chest of drawers, the joining of parts is taken into account: a new layer should not lead to distortions and protruding areas.

Preparation of the base

Step-by-step instructions for preparation:

This is how all the details are processed.

If it is not possible to completely disassemble the old furniture, then before painting the floor is covered with polyethylene

Repainting

Fragments are covered with paint according to the following scheme:

1. A primer is applied to the element. It is recommended to perform at least two treatments, each time waiting for the product to dry completely.
2. The coloring composition is being prepared. Stir it well and tint it if necessary.
3. The mixture is poured into a convenient roller container. The tool is impregnated with a solution, the excess is squeezed out.
4. Painting starts from the middle. The mixture rolls out well on the base, the movements should be parallel, the creation of a thick layer should not be allowed. The first layer is the base, you must wait until it dries completely.
5. Then the base coat is applied according to the previous principle.
6. When using a spray gun, you will need to dilute the composition used. To select the optimal distance, training staining is carried out.

Regardless of the type of composition, the surface is painted in 2 - 3 layers

If the part is subjected to constant impact, then an additional layer of varnish is applied.

Furniture decoration

Decorating such material is not too easy. There are many recommendations for creating a Provence style, but it will not work to achieve the effect that is obtained on furniture made of wood, plywood or MDF. This is due to the fact that chipboard products rarely have the required appearance.

Using simple devices on chipboard furniture, you can create genuine masterpieces

You can diversify the interior in the following ways:

• Painting countertops or dresser fronts in White color and the other face pieces are black. For this, a glossy paint is used. The technology completely repeats the above, but the difference lies in the application of three layers of varnish to the parts. The first layer is left untreated, and the subsequent ones are ground and polished.

For work in the "Decoupage" technique (artificial aging), special paints are used

• Aging. To create this effect, after laying the base coat, paint a darker color with a brush. Movements should be sweeping and slightly uneven, thinned white compound can be applied on top. Everything is fixed with varnish.

If you have an old cabinet, cupboard or wall at home - do not rush to throw them away and buy new furniture. Old things can sometimes be very stylish and will look great in the interior if you update them quite a bit. To do this, you will need to clean the surfaces from the remnants of old paint and varnish, and then cover them on top with a new layer of paint. At the same time, we always have the opportunity to experiment and pick up some completely new shade.

Today we will hold a small workshop on painting furniture at home. First, we will tell and show in sufficient detail how to update and paint an old shabby cabinet. And then we will give a number of other examples of painting a variety of interior items.

Painting in the light color of an old dark cabinet

This is what the curbstone looks like, which we will paint and give it a completely new look.

We decided to paint the curbstone in juicy light shades: ivory and light green. But first you need to clean the surfaces well. First of all, we disassemble the curbstone to the maximum, removing everything that can be removed from it: doors, handles, pull out and disconnect drawers, etc. For this we need various screwdrivers and other tools.

Preparation for painting furniture, cleaning surfaces

Now you can start cleaning the surfaces. The most important thing is to remove the varnish layer, paint residues, wax, grease and other dirt. The easiest way to do this is with coarse sandpaper. We take the skin and go through each part with sweeping wide movements along the fibers. Just don't make a lot of effort. Otherwise, you can wipe a thin veneer and wipe it through! If suddenly this happens, you will have to putty the surface in order to heal the "wounds" inflicted on the tree. And this is extra work, which we do not need at all.

After processing the surface with coarse sandpaper, brush it over with a wide brush. It is important! Be sure to use a brush, not a rag or rag. Why? Yes, because with a rag you will hammer some of the dust back into the micro-holes on the surface of the furniture.

Now we go over the surface of the part again, but with fine sandpaper. Especially carefully it is necessary to process hard-to-reach places, which were difficult to reach with coarse-grained skin. Brush the surface again.

One more important point... Before painting the parts, the room must be thoroughly cleaned. This is done in order to avoid the ingress of small dust particles and debris on the surface of the furniture during its staining or immediately after the end of the process.

We wipe the surface of the parts with a damp, freshly wrung out clean cloth. Then we wipe it again, dry.

Choice of paint, primer and brushes

In this case, we decided to use acrylic paint and the same soil. This paint is odorless, can be easily diluted with water when thickened, and can be mixed to obtain the desired shades.

We will paint with brushes. So it is more convenient to get a uniform color over the entire surface, including in hard-to-reach places. Don't go with cheap brushes, because the result can be completely unsuccessful.

With a primer, everything is simple - if we take acrylic paint, then the primer is the same. In this case, the paint will adhere much better.

Parts painting process

First, apply a thin layer of primer. There is nothing complicated here, but it is better to read the instructions on the bank of material beforehand. The primer can be applied gently with a roller. You can use a brush to cover some areas.

Initially, it was conceived to paint the curbstone in two colors. I managed to buy an ivory paint in a store, but to get the desired light green shade, I had to mix white and green paint.

First, paint all the details with a lighter paint. In our case, it is ivory. You can paint in one layer, or in two. Before applying each layer, you need to wait until the previous one is completely dry.

After painting the furniture in the first color, you need to glue the parts that you will not paint with the second color. You can not glue them completely, but only along the contour. And after that, we paint the required surfaces in light green color. If we want - then apply the second layer. After drying, remove the paper stickers.

After the paint has dried, carefully apply acrylic varnish on top. We will apply it with a foam sponge. It is advisable to apply 2-3 layers of varnish. Before applying each, we wait for the previous one to dry.

After the varnish has dried, screw on all the handles. We collect furniture completely. And now you can gild individual elements... As a result, we get such a wonderful view in the Provence style:

Examples of repainting furniture

And now - a few interesting examples similar repainting of different pieces of furniture.

Repainting a dark chest of drawers in a wonderful light green color. The handles were also not forgotten to be gilded!

The dark blue table was pretty pretty anyway. But when the interior was changed, it had to be repainted in a milky-creamy shade.

A dull wood-shaving chest of drawers has become a completely different piece of furniture! Note the gray moldings and silver handles.

Another example of giving an old chest of drawers a bright and rich Provencal style.

And here, from an old chest of drawers, we got a thing in a sort of "techno" style.

You can also repaint the chair!

And even a chair! Dare and experiment, good luck!

Thorough surface preparation

An old shoe cabinet has long been asked to go to the trash heap. The internal structures are broken, the surface is scratched - without tears and you will not look. Only an impressive weight saved her from a sad death. Nobody wanted to drag such a weight into the yard. So in case of failure, I was not threatened by my family. “It will not work - there will be a reason to throw it away!” - I said and got down to business.
About what I want to see the "new" furniture, I approximately imagined. It had to be something between "chairs from the palace" and art nouveau style in one bottle. Therefore, it was decided to paint the curbstone in two colors - ivory and turquoise - and add some finishing in the color of tarnished gold. But before that it was still far away ...
So, the first thing we need to do is prepare the surface of the furniture for painting. To do this, it is best to dismantle the object chosen for the experiment: remove the doors, handles, unwind, if possible, the main structure, boxes, etc. The finer the better.
I carried out all further work on the balcony.
After dismantling, little was needed from the tools:

• two types of emery cloth (coarse and thinner);
• flat wide brush-flutes;
• a pair of rags.

Our task is to remove all the obstacles that will prevent the new paint from laying neatly on the surface of the furniture. This means that we must remove a thin layer of varnish, grease, wax, in short, everything that interferes with getting to the tree. We take a rough skin and with wide sweeping movements we pass every detail along the fibers from all sides. Only, please, without fanaticism, otherwise you can manage to wipe the thin veneer through and through. And then you have to patch up the holes - putty and care for the inflicted wounds, and this is not so interesting anymore.
After the surface has been treated with a coarse sandpaper, carefully sweep it with a wide brush. Why not a rag? I explain. With a rag, we will most quickly take some of the dust back, and this is absolutely not necessary for us.
Now, with fine sandpaper, we bring to condition hard-to-reach places where the skin with large grain did not reach well. Then again carefully brush everything with a brush.
After the surfaces are prepared, we clean the room where we worked. We start painting, and therefore it is very important that no specks of dust settle on our freshly painted surfaces. Now let's take a carefully wrung out wet rag and achieve almost surgical cleanliness from our parts. Then we wipe everything dry.
Now you can take a break for 10-15 minutes and have some tea.

Choosing paint

When choosing the type of paint, I preferred acrylic. Its advantages in my eyes over others were as follows: it has no odor, when thickened, it is diluted with water, it is easy to work with it, mixing color, and most importantly, it can be washed off if necessary! I foresee a question from readers of MirSovetov: why paint furniture with easily washable paint? I answer. The beauty of water-based paint is that until it's dry, we still have the ability to redo a bad job. By the way, this property helped me out a lot later when I started repainting the cabinet (but more on that next time). So, the essence of water-soluble paints is that the more water evaporates, the stronger the paint becomes. And although acrylic paint dries quite quickly, at first you need to be more delicate with painted surfaces. But before we start experimenting with paint, it is necessary to put a primer, of course, also acrylic.

Brushes or rollers?

I tried both options, and I came to the conclusion that my tool is a brush. I feel it better, I work more accurately and I like the result more than when working with a roller. Although I admit that this is a very individual question. But in any case, both rollers and brushes should be designed for acrylic paint. In the store where I bought them, it was written on the labels. Here I want to focus on the price. Please do not buy cheap goods. Brushes must be of high quality. Then the pile will not climb from them, and the paint will lay down smoothly and beautifully. I used brushes different widths for different areas. Sometimes in hard-to-reach places it is more convenient to get close to the one that is narrower.
Of course, the brushes will need to be constantly looked after. It's not that hard. Put a jar of water next to you and, when stopping work, even for a short time, be sure to put the brushes in the water. Do not be lazy to wash them. You will not save so much paint, but you will not restore ruined brushes. All these rules apply to rollers. Do not let them not only dry out, but also dry out. Otherwise, you have to throw it away.

Primer

We have already agreed that our primer, like the paint, is acrylic. There are no tricks in its use, but in order to be completely calm, we read all the necessary information on the bank. We need two parameters - the area of ​​the surface to be coated and the drying time. The primer, even for those who like to paint with a brush, can be applied with a roller. We apply a thin layer on all surfaces, time it out and, with a sense of accomplishment, go to the kitchen for lunch.

Furniture paint - we select the necessary colors

From the very beginning, I decided: plain furniture is boring. Therefore, I chose two colors. One, ivory, found on sale. But with the second it did not work out in any way. I imagined it well, and therefore decided to mix the paint myself. To do this, I took ordinary white acrylic paint and several shades. green tone in small packages. Mixing paints to achieve what you want is an exciting experience. Here everyone will look for their favorite shade in accordance with their own taste. What can I advise here to the readers of MirSovetov. Make several mixtures in small containers, differing in tone intensity. Then, on some unnecessary wooden surface, make strokes and let them dry. You will get an idea of ​​how a more or less saturated color can look and make the final choice.

Painting in two colors

So we come to the most crucial stage - painting. Paints, brushes of different widths, a couple of rolls of adhesive tape (wider and narrower), dust-free (!) Room - that's all we need now. The first step is pretty straightforward. We paint all the details of our furniture with whichever of the two colors we have prepared, which is lighter.

I draw the attention of the readers of MirSovetov to the fact that the paint in no case should be dried and thickened. If this happens, you need to dilute it a little with water and stir thoroughly with a stick. You can directly at the bank. If you want the structure of wood to be guessed under the paint and the furniture looks like it was brought from somewhere from Provence, where it stood in a house near the sea, then you can limit yourself to one layer of paint, maybe even slightly dilute. If your plans are to give it a more "factory" look, then it is likely that the details will have to be painted a couple of times. Here, as they say, is a matter of taste. It is only important to be patient and not start applying the 2-3rd layer of paint until the previous one is completely dry. The fact that the paint should lie in one direction, I will not say - this is understandable.

After the main color has been applied and the details have dried, we proceed to preparing the surfaces for painting with the second color. Remember we grabbed a couple of rolls of sticky paper tape? Now it was their turn. The work ahead of us now is scrupulous and very responsible. We need to very accurately and carefully glue the areas along the contour, which we will cover with the second color. This is necessary so that when applying a dark color, we do not accidentally hook onto surfaces that should remain light. Pasted over carefully? Have you rubbed the paper better? So you can paint.

Do you need varnish?

I know that I want to quickly see the result and, but do not rush, let our parts dry properly. We applied matt acrylic lacquer with a foam sponge. Put on a thin rubber glove and pour some of the varnish from the can into a small container. Now boldly dip the sponge into the varnish, squeeze it out slightly and walk over all surfaces with confident movements. It's a good idea to carry out this procedure a couple more times. Naturally, after each new layer has dried.

Gold paint finish

Well, all the details are painted, varnished and dried. Now you can screw on everything that was unscrewed and screw on everything that was unscrewed. You like? Highly? But something is missing? That's right - the final touch! A very thin golden strip will give our furniture a spectacular look. We specially left it at the very end and will apply it after the varnish. The fact is that gold paint is very capricious and behaves unpredictably - it can lie badly, leak, and if it accidentally hooks on a light surface, and then try to erase it, it will simply give a dirty blurry spot. The varnish with which we covered our furniture will save us from all these misunderstandings.
For gold paint, use a fine paint brush from the paint kit. If you have a steady hand and the right eye, then you do not need to take any precautions. If you are not quite, then you can again glue the necessary areas with adhesive tape. Left a little. We gold the wooden handles of our cabinet and glue them into place.
Now you can call relatives, friends, acquaintances and neighbors - let them admire and paw, looking at the beauty that has come out from under your hands. Or you can ... take a close look around and choose another object worthy of becoming the next candidate for a new life. This will be my closet. We will not only recolor it, but also transform it with the help of decoupage. So see you, DIY lovers!