The oven-Holland, one of the most popular wood heating coal and coal systems. Until now, she often meets in modern houses. One of the advantages of the Dutch furnace is its device. It is possible to add such a furnace without experience, it is fairly carefully referring to the process itself.

Initially, the Dutch oven was with a deaf furnace, then the Dutch themselves made changes to the oven, adding to the cooler. After that, the facade of the stove was simplified, he was already without arches, which made it possible to build such stoves to people without special qualifications. As a rule, coal used for fuel.

The Dutch oven is a rectangular furnace, lined with tiles or a cafeter, intended for heating rooms. It has a vertical chimney and for this account it turns out a great return of heat.

At the time of Columbus (XV century), the Holland became similar to a certain design and from the XVI century gradually began to acquire popularity around the world. At the beginning of the XVIII century, it becomes very popular in almost every family; And by the XIX century, she dominates all types of heating. To this day, it does not lose popularity, perfectly fit into any interiors.

The principle of operation of the Dutch is quite simple: due to the elongation of chimneys, a strongest heating of the furnace itself was achieved. This design has passed many stages in its formation.

First of all, it was taken into account occupied space, the places were always missing, so the stove began to put in the house. And for this I needed a design that does not occupy a lot of space.

The second is the accounting of the climate of the local population, I needed a furnace that could quickly heat up and at the same time use less fuel. This was able to achieve thanks to the "winding" chimney to the very furnace.

The third, which is also important: the owners of the houses then paid real estate tax "with smoke". That is, the more chimneys, the more there were estimates. For this, it was invented by the sidewall for smoke to provide the ability to remove several pipes from other furnaces into one pipe.

Fourth, Dutch in height reached 5-6 floors in the XIV-XV century, there were no modern overlaps from concrete, and therefore the main criterion for furnaces was, ease and small fuel costs.

Types of dutch

The first is classic. Holland in classic style quite easily fit into any interiors, due to their shape and simplicity of finishing. The renovated Dutch furnaces are very valuable antiques. If we talk about the cost, then they exceed the cost of the building itself in which they are.

Second, this is the Holland improved by the fireplace.

The third, this is a Dutch stove-column, mainly such intended for use in the season. This is a wonderful option for giving.

The fourth, it is a warm-cooking furnace, with the presence of a stove.

Determination of the "oven-Holland" of Russian origin. Yes, and the Dutch, they did not specifically spread about their ovens. Therefore, the word "Holland" needs to be taken as a nominal name.

The definition of "Russian Holland" or "Pseudogalland" is ordinary Russian furnaces, which were decorated with tiles. The tiles themselves appeared thanks to Peter I, and then the masters have already adopted the manufacturing technology. Then the tiles were used to design all the furnaces and after that they began to be called the Dutch, despite the fact that the "Russian oven" and "Kholland oven" - on the technical part almost opposite.

Where did the Caps "Russian Dutch" appear in Russia? According to history, they have arisen here. Peter I, signed an order in which he ordered to build ovens, according to Dutch, in his opinion, it should have helped in the fight against frequent cases of fires. But in the order, the exact design was not indicated and the Russian bricklayers took advantage of this. This was the beginning of the modernization and improving its Russian stoves. Advanced Holland, similar to the outside and completely different inside, came out again to Europe. The possibilities of its installation changed significantly, it could be a triangular shape, and a trapezoidal, which made it possible to establish it, for example, in the angle of the room and practically not to occupy the useful space.

The difference between the kick stove from the channel

Among the dutch there are varieties: stoves of a channel and a cap. Channel view in the center is well visible to Higho. The ovens of the honesty is much more complicated in counting. Simple materials They are not suitable. The main criterion quality. The main difference between the cap from the channel consist in the fact that all gases remain under the "cap" for some time, thereby returning the part of the heat. The efficiency of this furnace is much larger than the efficiency of the channel of the channel type, this is due to the fact that during the furnace of the cap, a different cast material can be used, as well as high alone. But on this advantage of the cap, the furnace does not end, there is still no less significant item: a gas title. If you forget to cover the main view, then Higho will stop convection, and the air will simply stop inside the firebox and inside thoughtfully, the cap will become slowly cooling.

Difference of the fireplace

It is necessary to distinguish the classic, English fireplace and a Dutch fireplace. The Netherlands relate to everything quite economically, and it can be seen even in front of the furnaces, they lost the magnitude of the furnace, but accordingly they added over the flock part, did not forget about chimneys. The difference between the furnace and the fireplace itself is extremely conditional. In fact, the oven Holland is both a fireplace, it is only necessary to open the windbox doors. Built-in grateproofs, or their absence, did not affect the combustion process. This is also a big plus of Dutch. The Round in the form of the Nerland also arose in Russia, although it rather has a German origin: we owe her invention to I.G. Utermark. Utermarkovka (so called it) it is typical to function in order, it differs from Dutch deaf tops.

In historical outlines of Utermarkovok, the word "Burak" is found, which meant the smoke. From above, the stove was covered with iron, due to this it was possible to save on the construction material. They were built in 1/4 bricks, it gave not only small financial costs, but also a huge heat transfer.

Special delight did not cause such a furnace, because of the hot canals heated cold, because of this, many heat just went to nowhere. Having made the conclusions, we understand that Utermarkovka is a furnace for low-income segments of the population. It has quite a lot of negative qualities: smoke, smoking, accumulates soot, with very uncomfortable cleaning, and as a result - fire hazardous, but a big plus-low cost. Mostly, uttermarks were equipped with hospital institutions, orphans, at night, prison. In early 1927, V.E. Gruum-Mramillo, finally, came up with the most true Dutch, round type. It turned out to be a cap, in the furnace of which were grateproof. She competed on efficiency with Utermarkovsky oven. Especially its heat transfer, as the turnover of heat inside plays his hand. The furnace device is divided into two types: two-stage and single-stage.

Materials for Dutch

For the construction of the Dutch, the material is not high quality, even used. As for the solution, it should be a clay solution, a consistency resembling sour cream. IN modern world In any construction store there are already ready solutions. On the packages it is written how to use them correctly. To fold it enough enough skills in this matter, most importantly, follow the instructions. Even if it turns out a bit uneven, then it will not affect the quality of heat transfer.

Small holland

It is also called the small cottage stove-dutch, its heating area ranges from 16 to 20 sq.m. You can produce both firewood and coal. You can adjust the height of the furnace alternating the upper rows, laying out bricks, gradually reaching the desired height.

Holland with stovetop

Dutch diagram with a stove is a bit more complicated and more width, but one of the disadvantages is without a hobbling surface. It is only suitable for warming up, and something will not work on it. Although if you use it for sterilization, or for canning, it is simply indispensable, because it works on the principle of tension. Billets from this only won.

Big dutch oven with stove

The area of \u200b\u200bits heating reaches up to 50 sq.m. Improved design allows you to make the furnace of a similar to the cabinet. It has a side furnace.

Grouzillo Groom Furnaces

The principle of construction of the stove Gruce-Mrazailo includes: construction of the furnace belts; Therefore, its housing is as if divided into separations. The rows of bricks are laid out in the finished casing using it as a formwork, as the casing is displayed, it is simply increasing, and so to the end. The housing itself is made of durable iron, installing the casing it is plated by bricks. If the crooked crooked, it can fall and fall the whole oven.

It must be remembered, grouper furnaces have a rather serious minus, this is a horn-shaped channel for smoke, it constantly needs cleaning. Therefore, it is necessary to provide for this two dampers for cleaning.

Round Dutch

They are a conventional brick oven with a brick case. The case itself was laid out of facing bricksUsing cement-sandy solution. For even calculation used formwork made from boards. Basically, he was laid out with spoonful masonry, it attached the smoothness of the circuit and a smaller heating resistance. But this is not as simple as it seems it seems necessary to burn the seams, both horizontally and vertically, just so get a good strong stove. Of course, a person who does not speak sufficient skills, it is difficult to calculate all the masonry, it is necessary that the body of the furnace would ideally come to the case, you need to accurately calculate to avoid not docked, in practice it happens that the body of the furnace may not fit into the case Or vice versa, just fall out of it. Exists permissible norm Seam thickness between body and 13 mm case. First, 1 or 3 rows of cases are laying out (it all depends on the complexity of the chosen furnace model), leave until complete drying of the solution. After drying, it is embarked on the layout of the body of the furnace, it is done with the same formwork, only already on the clay solution. When these rows are dried, the formwork is removed and fixed a little higher, making the allowance down, and then continue the furnace laying on, strictly according to the scheme.

The top of the openings in the case is strengthened by independently made concrete labels. Iron is not suitable there. After two weeks, it is embarked on plaster and facing the furnace, after drying the finish (about two weeks), you can try to produce the first furnace. If everything went well, check for a couple more times, only with the filling of the furnace to the maximum.

Now there are blanks for the construction of round dutch furnaces. The kit includes: the casing itself, tremors, doors, tops, valves, and also detailed instructions on the construction of these furnaces. The only thing that will have to additionally hold it is a foundation, desirable with waterproofing.

After all successful furnaces, the furnace is considered suitable for use.

Pros and Cons of Dutch

• Small changes practically do not affect its strength and efficiency, the main thing is that there are no big changes.
• It is functional enough: a Dutch furnace can be made simply heating, you can also install a cooking surface. From this heat transfer will not change if not violate the technologies of chimneys.
• Very compact dimensions - the size of the Dutch furnace can be reduced to 0.5x0.5 m. Well, if it is very little space.
• Economical flow building material - 650 pcs need to be needed for the usual larger than Dutch. Brick, and if you compare, at least with an ordinary Russian oven - it will take no less than 1,300 bricks. The heat transfer is a large Dutch furnace, like a large Russian stove, to which 2500 bricks will need.
• A small mass of the furnace, due to the economical consumption of the building material: which is very important when calculating the allowable mass for many types of interhesive floors. This was especially taken into account in Holland, when there were no modern overlaps.
• Stretching over the furnace part in height does not affect the CPD of the stove, and does not worsen its actions. Dutch oven can be "stretch" for 2 or more floors. There were cases of three and four-storey dutch
• The use of various materials: Thickness at the walls is small and the design of the Dutch is not particularly sensitive to thermal deformation. Therefore, high-quality and refractory bricks are used only for laying firebox. In the modern world, at many dachas, and in many houses there are duthes, built even from the hollow brick or from the ironing (checked brick), the heat transfer is not reduced, the main thing is to perform a firework from refractory brick.
• Practical temperature difference and a fairly simple gas pipe: which will allow you to integrate or the heating element for heating the water or the oven.
• Frequently fast heating of the Dutch furnace and its ability to slowly cool. If it is not allowed to use it for cooking, but for the heating of the room, the flow of fuel materials to maintain the room temperature is minimal.
• There is no need for regular firebox or accelerating pro-furnace. If you use the Dutch, for example, on cottage plot, I do not have to fear for cracks on the stove after a long lack. The constancy of its use is not limited.
• Huge heat transfer, the Dutch oven can drop 60 square meters. m, whereas the ordinary Russian oven can heat about 45 sq.m.

• Dutch efficiency is estimated ± 40%.
• If you forgot to close the damper after the furnace, the principle of the siphon will act, the cold air instantly delays, thereby contributes to a complete cooling. But it is mostly minus channel type of furnaces.
• It is not practical when using quickly burning fuel: branches, straw, reeds. It will be very good to burn, but the right will not be, since the heat will go outside. For optimal work, it is necessary to drain. It is so possible to warm up all the moves and, accordingly, to get greater heat transfer.
• Not very high heat capacity. To maintain a certain temperature, it is necessary about two fireboxs per day, and in winter more.
• If you use high-voltage type fuel, it contributes to sedimentation of soot in chimneys. European cities, until the very twentieth century, suffered from the most common misfortunes of sunbathing soot. But the pipe readers, but the work was enough.
• It is not practical in terms of overgrowth: if this happens, the selection begins carbon monoxide.

Conclusion

Along with the advantages of Dutch, concerning her practicality, there are enough shortcomings, and as noticed by not one person, the advantages exceed the shortcomings. All these factors led to the fact that the popularity of Dutch furnaces is widely used worldwide, and the minuses brought to the fact that many diverse species appeared, more and more improved.

Holland in many ways exceeds the usual Russian oven - it is characterized by high warm-up, small-size, convenience, efficiency and ergonomic. In this regard, the oven Holland is ideal as for country houseand for a bath. This design can be postponed with your own hands, but provided that the instructions for production are followed.

Regardless of the modification, the Holland consists of three main elements - a flue chamber, chimney and a smoke speed adjustment mechanism. Among other features, it is worth highlighting:

• lack of grate;
• the presence of six chimney channels;
• small sizes, as a result of which the furnace will fit perfectly in any interior;
• the form of construction can be different - from a round to rectangular (only a fuel can remain unchanged);
• thin walls (in one brick thickness) allow you to minimize the amount of fuel required for full heating;
• the absence of pondered under the fifth;
• lack of cast iron cooking boards for cooking.

Attention! The only disadvantage of the Dutch can be considered a low intensity of combustion of fuel, which is caused by the absence of imagined and the grate grid. Oxygen in this case comes only through the windshield door in insufficient for intensive burning quantity.

Having understood with the strong and weak sides of the Dutch, you can proceed to the manufacturing process.

Stage 1. Preparation of equipment and consumables

For the construction of the design, the following materials will be needed:

• chamotte brick (minimum of 200 pcs.);
• clay (about 0.5 cubic meter);
• river sand, necessarily sinking;
• door for the fuel ...
• small-flower crushed stone;
• ruberoid;
• steel wire.

In addition, you need to prepare such tools:

• roulette;
• shovel;
• mounting level;
• tank for clay;
• master OK.

Attention! For a Dutch, as well as for any other design of this type, the base will be required.

Stage 2. Construction of the foundation

Initially, it is worth noting that from a constructive point of view, the foundation should not be connected to the main foundation of the house. Further sequence of action should be next.

Step 1

Initially, it is necessary to outline the contour of the future foundation. It is important that the width and depth of the base be 8-10 cm more compared to the planned oven dimensions. In parallel, it is necessary to check whether the foundation coincides with the sealing pipe.

Step 2.

The pit of the corresponding sizes is broken, its depth should be approximately 60 cm.

Step 3.

The pits are covered with a 15-centimeter "pillow" from rubble. Crushed stone thoroughly tram, its surface is aligned with the mounting level.

Step 4.

Then you need to build the formwork of the foundation of the furnace. To do this, you can use a tree, chipboard and even a dense cardboard.

Attention! If the material selected for construction, the material absorbs moisture, then from the inside it is necessary to wrap it with rubberoid (although any other waterproofing material is suitable).

Step 5.

Concrete solution is mixed. For this, dry cement is mixed with sand in the ratio of 1: 3 and is poured by the necessary amount of water. The solution is thoroughly mixed.

Step 6.

Formwork must be pouring into a solution and wait for its complete drying. Often this requires a maximum week.

Stage 3. Preparation of the solution

Initially, the raw materials are prepared. It is advisable to do it in advance, a few days before the construction of construction. Clay is sieved, cleaned from stones and large lumps. It is characteristic that such a procedure must be repeated several times.

Attention! As a sieve for sifting clay, you can use the grid from the Soviet bed of a shell type. The grid is installed under the tilt (approximately 45ᵒ) on any existing support.

After that, clay should be pouring water and soak at least two or three hours. It is important that water is completely absorbed. Her surplus you have needed immediately merge.

When the clay is swelling, it should be mixed with sand in equal proportions, and then add some more water (no more than 1/8 of the total volume).

Stage 4. Masonry

Attention! When laying, each brick should be placed in the water for ten seconds. This is necessary so that the bricks do not absorb moisture from clay.

Initially, the base of the design is covered with two layers of rubberoid. Next is falling asleep 5-centimeter layer of river sand. The sand is leveling, is checked for horizontal, after which he is sprayed with a small amount of water.

Upon completion preparatory work You can proceed directly to the masonry.

Order

Series number 1. The first row is put "dry", without a solution. For this, twelve bricks will be required - they are put, tested by the assembly level and only after that are coated with a slight layer of solution.

Series number 2.3. Bricks lie down the plafhmy, this time on the solution (then they need to lay out "on the edge" to the top of the furnace).

Series number 4.5. Shake bricks are used, often yellow. In parallel, a lining for the chimney channel partition is formed. The rear wall is laid out of the "ignition" brick, laid "dry".

Attention! The solution is not needed, since this brick will be removed all the time to clean the chimney from soot. Of course, instead, the rear wall can be equipped with an additional door, but in this case the heat will quickly get out of the design.

Also at this stage you need to install the door for the fuel. It is desirable to wrap it with asbestos, although recently this material is quite difficult to find. Alternatively, you can use any other non-combustible material. For fixing the door, steel wire is used, which is inserted into the masonry seams.

Series number 6.7. Here everything is done in the same way as in the fourth row. The order can change somewhat to the top of the door somewhat, but in this case it all depends on the height of the future design. Upon completion of the door, the door (often it happens when styling the seventh row) bricks again fold out the plafhmy. The bandage is monitored all the time, the horizontal and location of each angle of the furnace are periodically checked.

Attention! In the seventh row, the brick is stacked, and the back wall remains "on the edge." The method of laying bricks is changing, only starting from the eighth row.

Series number 8. It is distinguished by the fact that a bevelled brick is installed above the heat chamber. Such trick will allow you to use the furnace as a fireplace after opening the furnace. This row is completely overlapping the coil.

Series number 9. Brick shifts back (about 1/2 width). Any non-combustible material is stacked on top of the ninth row (for example, cord from asbestos) to which the cooktop is installed (if it is provided for design).

Series number 10. Next, the base is erected under the chimney pipe. If the Holland is built a light modification, then the metal pipe is better used as a chimney, since the brick design will be too heavy.

Series number 11. At this stage, the valve is embedded, pre-compacted asbestos. In parallel, the joint is formed between the design and the chimney pipe. It is characteristic that the laying here should be performed in the ¼ brick.

Attention! To avoid typical mistakes Newcomers are recommended first to fold the brick oven without the use of the solution and only then, if everything is fine, re-shifting it.

Final events

How to deal with condensate

When burning firewood on the walls of the chimney, the resin condensate is settled, which flows down and forms in the furnace peculiar stalactites. Of course, these stalactites are partially burned, but some of their share hardens and creates an obstacle for the flow of emerging gases. To avoid this you can do the following:

• pre-dry firewood;
• increase the combustion temperature;
• from time to time to produce designs to "red cagid".

It is impossible to neutralize such negative factors, but they can be reduced.

RESULTS

You can independently build a furnace of the Dutch, it is not such a complex procedure as it may seem at first glance. It is only necessary to prepare all the necessary equipment and clearly follow the instructions. And, of course, to be extremely neat.

Video - Oven Holland

Dutch furnaces came to Russia more than three hundred years ago, thanks to Peter I, who actively attracted overseas masters in all sectors of the national economy. Compact sizes and high speed of warm-up new heating devices were combined with the convenience and aesthetics of the design, so Dutch in very short time Foresting and cumbersome Russian furnaces from palace halls were supplanted, and then from more simple houses merchants and artisans. And in our time, thermal efficiency and comfort of Dutch heating devices contribute to their unprecedented popularity among the owners of cottages, cottages and country houses. And also - simplicity and undemanding to the materials, so that a unique oven, born in the time of Columbus, can build anyone. On how to do it with your own hands, we will tell you more.

Features and secrets of the popularity of Dutch furnaces

Tiered Dutch oven sometimes is a real work of art

With a dutch, or, differently, Holland, Gulauken or Gallan, not only new principles for the construction of heat exchange structures, but also a completely different approach to the furnaces as to the details of the interior. Unlike Russian stoves common in the VII century, new heating devices were based on simple geometric shapes - a circle, rectangle, oval or square, which gave them a lot of advantages when decorating the design. You remember that the first ganglakes were installed in the royal rest, and this was put forward to the facilities a lot of additional requirements, which concerned not only thermal efficiency, but also external luxury. And, I must say, the overseas fashionista has succeeded in this. It was she who gave the world of tips, which for several centuries became an indicator of wealth, taste and well-being of the owner.

As for their direct duties, with them the first Dutch did not care. The furnace, which came to cold Russia from the latitudes with a temperate climate and had thin walls, was heated in the minutes, but also quickly and cooled. The problem was solved by the thickening of her body and an increase in the area of \u200b\u200bheat exchange channels, due to which the heat capacity was to increase, retaining a unique heater. Nevertheless, heat the gallank in the coldest days has two times a day.

The feature of the Dutch is the lack of standard apartments that are inherent in most stationary heating devices. For the first time, it was possible not to "dance from the stove", as was customary in Russia, but to install it inside the finished home, without any problems adjusting the configuration under the specifics of specific rooms, despite their size and floors. Due to the channel multi-turn design and the horizontal smoke channel, several heating units could be integrated into a single heating systemBy installing a single chimney.

Built according to the model of Dutch Round "Utermarkovka" and Groom-Mramiahlo furnaces are popular and nowadays

The presence of a plurality of ovens has played another positive role. The thrust of the chimney is enough to ensure the forced movement of hot gases in the maze of its channels, however, to blew them back is very difficult even at low atmospheric pressure and existence of drafts.

A more complex in construction multichannel design gives in practice many advantages:

1. The furnace has an amazing property to transform under any conditions. Compliance with the design bases and the absence of gross mistakes guarantee high efficiency and reliability of the heating device.
2. Functionality - Dutch can be made of a cooking and cooking, with a fireplace or an oven, a hot water box, etc.
3. Neutility to the place of installation - the oven dimensions in the plan can be less than 0.5 m2.
4. Low consumption of materials, and, as a result, low weight, allow without concern to install Dutch furnaces on capital interhesives.
5. The possibility of increasing the height of the heating unit without deteriorating thermal efficiency.
6. Holland admits irregular use, which is important when it is installed in the country. Thanks to the small thickness of its walls, the need for a preliminary protopa disappears. The furnace can immediately download "full", not surviving about cracks.
7. A uniform temperature gradient along the hot gases and the simple design of the gas dryer allows you to easily find a place to embed a water-warning box or oven.
8. Neutility to materials. Of course, the Holland firebox should be equipped with the use of refractory materials, but to the body of the furnace and the gas duct requirement of more than loyal. They can be posted both from ordinary red bricks (hollow or full-time) and raw or checked ironing.

We would not want to create an opinion from the reader that the Holland is such a unique oven. Of course, as for shape and content, it has its advantages and a certain charm. As for productivity and heat transfer, they are not much higher than that of a conventional Russian oven, and if you take newcomer dome units, then Gallanka with its efficiency in 40-45% will be in the outsider.

It would be honest to note the other disadvantages of the design, right?

• The system of long, narrow channels is obeyed by the law of Bernoulli, which is good during the furnace, because it increases the rate of expiration of combustion products and badly after burning firewood. If after the protrusion does not close the chimney damper, then the heat accumulated walls will be stretched literally for an hour.
• Holland is optimally working only on heavy models of solid fuel. Branches, chips, reed, needles and other quickly burning dry vegetable residues give high flame intensity in a short time, which has no advantage in channel furnaces. Their mode of operation is racing.
• Low material intensity forces the stove twice a day.
• Numerous bends of internal channels and the absence of a zone for afterburring combustion products contribute to contamination of soot chimneys, which increases the risk of ignition. No wonder the profession of a pipeline was in demand in Europe until the middle of the last century.
• With a passing of the Dutch, the risk of carbon monoxide formation increases.

With a careful analysis of all the advantages and minuses, it becomes clear why ovens who came to us from the distant Holland, are still popular, like three hundred years ago.

Design, device and principle of dutch, drawings

Despite the entire configuration variability, any Holland, built in compliance with the main canons consists of such parts:

• solnik;
• coaching chamber;
• gas duct system;
• clean compartments;
• device for adjusting the intensity of thrust;
• chimney.

The structure and size of the main parts of the classic Dutch furnace

As for the differences between Dutch devices from other ovens common in our latitudes, they are quite significant. First, in the design it is not stipulated, as a result of which there is no need to install a grate grid. Secondly, a labyrinth of gas supplies in the vertical plane, which contributes to the maximum heat from the exhaust gases. Thirdly, despite the configuration of the furnace, and it, as we noted above, may be any, the Gallanka's fuel is always rectangular. And the last thing I would like to be noted - despite the universality of the heating unit, the cooking surface in the furnaces of this type is set quite rarely.

The absence of a grate grid in classical structures is due to the fact that the high intensity of the flame is Dutch heat generators do not require, because in their essence are symbiosis of the fireplace and a simple channel furnace.

In fact, the lower supply of air is not used only in the furnaces built in compliance with all canons. Conditioned Dutchs have in their design and pondered, and a grate grid.

The walls of the heating device are laid out in the Polkirpich and easily warmed by gases passing along its channels. Thermodynamic processes that occur inside the Dutch do not represent interests for lovers to experiment, since the furnace functions extremely simple and understandable. Gases heated in the fuel chamber go to the first vertical channel, where they give part of the heat walls of the furnace. Having achieved her arch, they change the direction and move down. The lost heat is filled at the lowest point, where the channel is in contact with the furnace. After that, heated combustion products are reappearing again, repeating the heat exchange process several times, according to the number of the furnace channels, and then go into the chimney. In order to reduce the intensity of burning, if necessary, reduce the intensity of burning and prevent the aggregate cooling after burning the fuel, a valve is installed at the inlet to the smoke tube.

Advanced Dutch Device with Collectors

The uncomplicated design gives ample opportunities to choose the configuration of the heating device, designers are very like to work with it. On the other hand, the simplicity of the unit does not allow to raise the design thought. A simple vertical oven, Holland with a fireplace and a heating-cooking furnace - this is, perhaps, all the varieties of these simple heating devices, which, however, did not affect their popularity.

It is absolutely necessary to make clarity about the name of the furnace. It became a nominal name "Holland" she received exclusively in Russia, while in other nations, it is positioned exclusively as a multi-turn feeding furnace with vertical gas stations. Often, fashion on the tiles, which previously faced the exclusively considered heating devices, causes confusion, because today such a way, both caps and Russian furnaces, "Swedes", etc. are decorated.

Take a trowel! Location and order schemes

Such a simple oven, like Holland, can be folded, absolutely no experience of furnace work. Everything that this will need is to choose a place and decide on design and functionality. All options for posting the heating device are impossible to consider within a small article, so we will present one curious sketch that can push to understand what can be achieved if at the initial stage it is necessary to properly approach the location and practicality.

With the skillful placement, one Dutch oven will damn all rooms in the house

Of course, the figure shows a non-canonical situation, since the work in this case should be "from the stove", however, nothing should be attached to a little effort and change the inner partitions to achieve maximum convenience during long years of operation.

For experienced cook, the Holland does not represent difficulties. Any village master will erect such a design right at the place without using any drawings and drawings. The beginners in their work it is better to use schemes of ordering, which, if necessary, can be adapted to their conditions, proportionally changing the dimensions of all parts of the furnace.

Big furnace for heating rooms up to 50 m2

The heating unit built on these orders has a traditional rectangular shape, with proportions that make it look like a small wardrobe. Thus, it is possible to save a lot of space at high performance.

Circuit Challenge Masonry Big Dutch Furnace

Small Holland for rooms up to 20 m2

A small heating device is ideal for installation in the country, and the design allows you to increase the height in accordance with the size of the room. The furnace is also compact and at the expense of the interesting design of the fleece - it will get drunk in the ring. In terms of construction takes only 0.52x0.52 m.

Minor Dutch furnace order

Heating and cooking country "Holland"

The following schemes make it possible to build a cottage stove with a cooking surface without burners.

Spot of a small heating and hob of dutch for giving

Materials and tools

The choice of the place and design of the furnace will make a complete clarity to how much and what materials it will be needed during construction. Most likely, to make a dutch, have to prepare:

• refractory brick - as the zones of pyrolysis burning with the design of gallanches are not provided, then shamot of any brand is suitable;
• red brick - any, right up to the used;
• large river sand that needs to be sifted;
• steel wire for fastening the stove of casting and hardening of masonry seams;
• ruberoid for waterproofing base;
• cast iron furnace door;

Modern chimney casting is not inferior to the products of the Tsarist Russian factories.

• hatches for arrangement of cleaning;
• cement;
• crushed stone;
• steel corner with a width of the shelf at least 50 mm;
• construction grid;
• clay.

The cross section of the furnace in the light is a narrow, high rectangle, therefore individual perfectionists can embarrass the apparent instability of the structure made on a simple clay mixture. They can advise to strengthen the masonry seams. For this, the solution is made from special adhesive compositions, which in abundance lie on the shelves of construction stores.

Special glue for masonry furnaces and fireplaces

And of course, the bare hands will build a furnace, it will not be quite convenient, so the most uncomplicated tools will be needed:

• master OK;
• roulette
• shovel;
• bubble level;
• capacity for the preparation of the solution;
• nippers;
• bushhammer;
• rule;
• tamble.

If the design of the furnace requires trimming of the face brick, then, among other things, it will be necessary to prepare a barrage with a stone disk - it will make it work more accurately.

Preliminary work

Like any other major construction, the Dutch oven is demanding on the preparation of the base. Of course, if the heatgenerator is built at the end stage of the house, then pour a small slab together with a belt foundation will not be difficult. The main thing about not to bind them into a single design, but to separate the sand pillow. In the case when the heating unit is installed in the residential room, the work may impede the presence of a board. Its in the installation site of the furnace is cut out by retreating 15-25 cm from its external contours.

1. They dig up with a depth of 25-30 cm, the bottom of which is poured with sand for 10 cm.
2. Sand shed water and seal with hand-made tamping.
3. On the perimeter of the future foundation, it is set to formwork with a height of 15-20 cm. Be sure to control the level of installed boards.
4. At an altitude of 5-7 cm, the reinforcement grid is laid on the bottom of the pit. To do this, we use backups from wooden bars or covered in the ground pins to which Armopoyas is fixed with a knitting wire.
5. Concrete solution is prepared, for which cement M-400, sand and crushed stone are mixed in the ratio of 1: 3: 6. Water add so much to the mixture to be fluid and at the same time not too liquid.
6. Poured concrete into a prepared formwork and leave for a few days before full grasp.

Prepared Foundation

Before proceeding with the construction of the furnace, a clay solution is prepared. Its makeup depends on the fat content of clay - than this indicator above, the more sand is required. Most often, the liveshists take the components in proportion of 3 parts of clay per 1 part of the sand, but sometimes the number of last increases to 2 parts. Before mixing bulk materials, clay kneads and soaked in water for several hours, and sand sieves. The resulting solution must have the fluidity of thick sour cream - in this case, the seams will be completely filled with the clay composition. I would like to warn from the preparation of a large number of working solutions immediately. This is absolutely no need, since the mixture will smell on the components and it will have to constantly mix it.

How to prepare a clay solution

Getting Started with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions

The oven-Holland, which we suggest to build, has the average size and is intended for heating a small country house. Its design does not provide a cooking surface, so the unit can be installed in the hallway or living room.

Scheme of a big Dutch furnace

Fit Great Dutch Furnace

The small instruction prepared by us will help to deal with all the stages of construction and will avoid mistakes during the furnace masonry.

1. Fully dry foundation is covered with several ridebrokeroid bands, which is needed as waterproofing. A thin layer of sand is sprinkled over it, which is sprayed with water.

2. The first row of bricks is laid dry, and only after the level of bed and the correctness of laying will be checked, the brick base from above is poured with a solution.

The first row of bricks is laid closely

3. The second begins to form a coxy and vertical gas duct. To serve it during the operation from soot, install the clean door. Some live shops in this situation refuse to the stove of casting, closing the canal with a half of the brick - so, they say, there will be less thermal losses. We recommend this not to do, because heat through the metal will still go to heating the room.

Asbestos seal will not allow the place of the door adjoining to the body of the furnace crack

4. Starting number 3, set a configuration door. For additional strength, its frame is fixed to the walls with wire, which is stacked in the seams. The furnace castunin isolate from the masonry using a basalt seal or asbestos cord. This is necessary due to the different temperature expansion of brick and metal, which leads to the appearance of cracks in the places of their mutual adjustment.

Method of fastening the furnace door

5. After laying a number of number 5, the transverse elements from a metal corner are installed, which will hold the ride of the ash bar.

6. The sixth row is needed to overlap the ash chamber. Here is installed a grate grid.

View of the grate

7. Rows 7-11 form the furnace. The door for laying fuel is mounted in the same order, as at the arrangement pondered.

The furnace of the Dutch furnace is made of refractory bricks

8. The ranks from 12 to 14 are needed to overlap the fuel and bodybuilding of the furnace.

Overlap of the fuel

9. In the ranks No. 15-16, another door is installed for cleaning the furnace channels, and the bypass can be placed to flow hot gases from the central channel to the rear during the extracts.

10. Masonry 18 rows of central gas duct is divided into two channels. At the same level, the heat exchanger is overlapped in the back of the furnace.

Building an array of the furnace at the same time allows you to create channels of the required length

11. 18-25 rows are needed to build a heat exchange array. They are also formed niche located on the front wall of the Dutch.

12. 26-29 row needed to arrange overlapping. Starting from the 27th tier, the furnace area in the light is reduced to make organic adjoining the heating device to chimney.

Upper overlap with channel for removal of combustion products in chimney

13. Directly in front of the smoke channel (row 30), the metal valve is installed, which is blocked to prevent the furnace to prevent the furnace.

Often, in order to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning, a diameter of 10-15 mm is drilling in a chimney. It will overlap the smoke canal, without waiting for a complete root of coal.

14. Finnish 31 row crepes the flap of the flap.

The yield of the chimney through the overlap must be fireproof

The trivial leaf will save the floor with random rolling of coal from the ash bar

The last thing remains to be done before the first extractor - to equip the chimney, which, depending on the design, can be both brick and metallic.

Length and location of the chimney over the roof depends on the characteristics of the building. The main thing is that the norms of fire safety are not violated.

The rules for the installation of chimneys

The places of contact with the flue channel with the ceiling is best to isolate with the help of non-combustible materials - basalt wool, asbestos, etc. Closer to the overlap Perform the rolleros - thickening on the body of the pipe that will not allow precipitation and condensate to drain along its surface. When the chimney is built into the solution, up to 1/10 of the cement part of the cement is added. In addition, masonry seams are close to a conventional cement-sandy mixture, after which they perform a decorative extender.

Droke Design for Dutch Furnace

The first extract of "Dutch" is carried out with a pinch. The fire must gradually warm the stove walls, otherwise there is a danger of their cracking. Only after the temperature external surfaces It will reach 30-40 ° C, you can add lamps thoroughly. The firing of the furnace with a small flame intensity is carried out within 4-5 hours. At the same time, carefully observe whether there are no smoke leaks between individual bricks and in the places of flickering of the furnace casting.

Our Holland is ready for the clothes in a beautiful tiled outfit

In the future, when the cold furnace is ignited, there is a slight smoke due to the formation of air traffic jams in the risks. A to avoid such trouble will help a small trick. To do this, before having to sink the bulk of the fuel, it is thrown into the depth of the firebox, a shurry of a moistened kerosene pakley or wool. Intensive burning instantly trips the path through the channels of the furnace, thanks to which further risi firewood will take place without emissions of smoke into the room.

To the decoration walls, photos

We have already mentioned that together with the Dutch in our world, the traditions of language architecture came. And even though the stove copes well with its duties not even being plastered, earlier "naked" brick halanca was more or less relevant only in the kitchen or in auxiliary premises. If the furnace was part of the interior of the living room or the large hall, then its unclear walls pointed to the complete absence of taste from the owner.

Now a neatly folded Dutch oven serves as an ornament of anyone, no matter what kind of walls are finished. Not only lined tile Or plastered with decorative compositions, but also "naked" furnaces built from red facing bricks with rounded edges. If you plan to be built by all canons of Dutch with real tips, then thoroughly study this type of finish or trust the work by a specialist. Note that the ceramic tile of this type should be laid by special technology. Its observance will only make a coating more aesthetic, but also increase the heat transfer of the heating device.

The option of decoration with brick or stone will allow the stove to look more natural

A small photographic formation, of course, will not be able to show the entire magnificence and versatility of the decoration of Dutch furnaces. Nevertheless, we hope that the above examples will pump you on new ideas and will give an incentive for personal creativity.

Operation and maintenance of Dutch furnaces, cleaning

If you do not take into account coal, then dry birch firewood is always considered the best fuel for solid fuel furnaces, and the Holland in this matter is also no exception. Experienced Micketers advise every tenth firebox to carry out lanes from aspen with humidity no more than 5%, as it contributes to the cleansing of the channels and chims of the stove from soot.

No better fuel for dutch than dry birch firewood

The intensity of burning is adjusted using a pensive door and chimney damper. Black smoke at the exit of the pipe indicates that the Nerland has passed into the gas generator mode. Since this occurs with a lack of oxygen, it will help to eliminate the submission of an additional amount of air into the combustion zone. For this, the door pissed down. If the flame is raging in the fuel cell in the fuel cell, and the stove begins to buzz, then it speaks of excessive thrust. In this case, a portion of hot gases will be simply flying out into the pipe, not the time to give its heat with the walls of the heating device. It should be remembered that the mode of operation of Dutch wood heat generators is slow burning, almost degeneration. To reduce the intensity of the flame, it is sufficient to cover the air supply slightly. Remember that the correctly adjusted mode will save up to 25% of fuel.

Most often, when exiting the nominal power, the subdivine door is opened by 2-3 cm, and the valve is slightly smaller than half the sections of the smoke channel. Properly working oven should not throw smoke. Only a small jitter of air should be noticeably above the pipe.

Cleaning gays spend once a season. To do this, open the doors or brick plugs of the clean channels, after which brushes and spatulas with long handles are scraped with the walls from the walls and removed with the help of a narrow metal scoop. Some of the "bright minds" recommend to burn chimney using flammable substances -.. Acetone, gasoline, kerosene, etc. This is not recommended, because the fire of soot and its emission from the chimney can cause a fire. It should not be listened to the advice of some "experts", which are recommended for cleaning the channels to burn naphthalene pills. Firstly, the efficiency of this process is extremely low, and secondly, this substance during the combustion forms a strong carcinogen whose inhalation may harm health. Not for nothing in Europe of the last century it has been so popular profession of the chimney sweep - manual method of cleaning chimneys and stoves channels and to this day is considered to be the most effective and safe.

Video: How to build a dutch oven do it yourself

If you read somewhere that the construction of the Dutch is a simple and uncomplicated process of laying bricks, then we dare to disappear - it is not. Yes, to build an externally similar design is easy, however, can it be able to answer not only visual, but also functional correspondences? The beginners will have to stock with limitless patience and attention, attach all the strength and knowledge in order for the furnace to be not only productive, but also economical. It is best to see how experienced cooks do their work. Believe me, they can learn not only skills, but also to catch special mood, which inhales in an old Dutch oven broad and mysterious Russian soul.

Stove heating, despite the archaic, and today remains the main type of housing heating in rural areas. Much attention is paid to the reliability of the design and economy of the unit, as restoration and maintenance are conjugate with large financial costs. The oven-Holland, has long been used in Russia, is a time-tested solution to the problem of heating efficiency, decent interior design of the house and reliable operation for a long time.

What is the oven-holland and where it is used

In Russian, the name of this type of stoves appeared during the reign of Peter I, when the king commanded all the battles to build them according to the Dutch, "in order to gaze european beauty." The classic version in the Netherlands is a purely heating structure with hobs and windscreens.

Dutch stove covered with painted tiles perfectly fits into the interior of a country house

The advantages and disadvantages of the Dutch furnace

Its basic functional advantages are as follows:

1. Compact dimensions. A small Dutch oven has a minimum square size with a side length of 52 cm.
2. Relatively simple installation, which, forces, even a novice bricklayer.
3. The consumption of materials compared to similar to the size of the Russian oven is twice as smaller. 700 pieces of brick are needed on the construction of a small dutch, while heating the room it will also be like a large Russian oven.
4. Low weight. The unit can be installed without additional supports in two and three-story buildings. Standard inter-storey overlap, designed for a load of 300 kg / m 2, without problems withstand the weight of the furnace.
5. Even significant changes in the project do not have a noticeable effect on the functioning of the furnace. The strength of the case and efficiency is not reduced. The main condition is not to allow rude mistakes in masonry and finishing.
6. Due to the smooth change in the temperature in the chimney and the simple scheme of the movement of gases into the furnace is easy to embed additional devices - bread maker, water and so on.
7. The ability to use with any materials, even hollow bricks. High-quality fire-resistant material is only needed for lays down the heat chamber.
8. Easy and without damage to heat transfer increases the exhaust part. The chimney case can be pulled out on 2, 3, 4 floors up.
9. A thin-walled oven heat exchanger is quickly heated and slowly cools.
10. Good heat transfer. Where the Russian oven heats 40 m 2, similar to the overalls of Holland - 60 m 2.
11. After long downtime, pre-extract is not required.

In the construction of the Dutch, the consumption of materials is less than doubled, in comparison with similar to the size of the Russian oven

There are cons:

1. The efficiency does not exceed 40%. For comparison, the Russian Federation of efficiency is about 60%, and improved models - up to 80%.
2. You can not use some types of fuel - straw, trim, reed and other instantly burning materials. A fast-flowing oxidation reaction with high energy release will not bring to the heat. The most appropriate types of fuel - coal and firewood, which can burn in the mode.
3. To ensure permanent heat in the room it is necessary to trample a minimum twice a day.
4. On the walls of the chimney channels, a layer of soot and nagar is quickly formed, which is flammable from time to time. This can lead to a fire throughout the house. If, for example, the door of the furnace is badly closed, and the soot caught fire, the explosive wave throws a long flame tongue through the furnace.
5. If, after combustion of fuel, it does not close the furnace damper on time, everything will instantly disappear.
6. The unit does not tolerate overgrowths. The temperature excess leads to a rapid appearance of microcracks on the case. This follows the flow of carbon monoxide into a residential premises.

Disadvantages with interest are covered by the benefits of the Dutch. Thanks to this, the oven is very popular among the population. Analyzing its functional qualities, you can come to the following practical conclusions:

• it is optimally suitable for small houses, individual premises, garages, cottages and even baths;
• indispensable for floor heating in the building, when it is impossible to apply a massive Russian oven;
• the design allows you to remove the chimney both through the roof and through the side wall, which makes the furnace unique in terms of savings.

The optimal operation of the furnace is 60-65 ° C in the middle of the case. It was noted that the palm of a person withstands this temperature, but for the back side of the brush, such heating is already not supporting. Therefore, the correctness of the firebox can be controlled by means of your hand.

Varieties of the furnace

For classification, you can use the following signs:

• shape and sizes;
• functions and destination;
• types of decorative decoration.

Initially, the form was rectangular. Today you can meet square, round and even triangular furnaces. Some models are equipped with a traditional Russian heated layer.

The oven-Holland may have a bed in "Russian Spirit"

The name "Holland" became more nious than their own. For example, behind the furnace known as "Untermarkovka", invented in the XIX century Nemen I.G. Untersmark, the name "Round Dutch" was fixed. Cover furnace Groom-melmailo is also called the same, although the principle of its action is different.

12-chassing German oven worker is also called a Dutch

Depending on the size of Dutch furnaces, it is conventionally divided into large and small, and on the intended purpose - into two classes:

• heating;
• heat and cooking.

By outdoor finish distinguish the following types:

• with metal casing;
• plastered;
• trimmed with tiles, cafeter or other material;
• covered with tiles.

Covering furnace Groom-Mr. has a rounded shape and is often covered with tiles

Construction and principle of operation

Holland has the following design features:

The basis of the work of the furnace - the movement of hot gases on the vertical channels of the chimney

Calculation of the main parameters of the Dutch

For any furnace, it is necessary to determine the power (heat transfer) and the size of the cross section of the chimney pipe. To calculate power, you need to know the value of the specific fuel calorism. The desired figures can be found in the tables that are compiled on the basis of experimental testing of various types of fuel.

Power definition

If, with intense burning, one laying of firewood leaves in an hour, it is possible to calculate the power of the furnace according to the formula: w \u003d v t x e x 0.8x 0.4 x 0.63, where W is the power expressed in kW, V T - worker The volume of the fuel chamber in m 3, the coefficient of 0.8 shows the amount of fuel combustable, the coefficient 0.4 is an indicator of the KPD of the stove and the coefficient of 0.63 - the level of loading of the furnace with a combustible material.

For example, it is possible to calculate the heat transfer power for the furnace with the size of the furnace 0.4x0.3x0.4 m. Fuel is a firewood from birch with a humidity of 25%. We substitute our data in the formula and we obtain: w \u003d 04х0.3х0,4х2352х0.8х0,4х0.63 \u003d 22.76 kW.

After determining the power indicator, the size of the pipe cross section is selected.

Table: Specific caloriness of some types of wood in kW * Ch / m 3

Type of wood fuel	Humidity 12%	Humidity 25%	Humidity 50%
Poplar	1856	1448	636
Fir	1902	1484	652
Spruce	2088	1629	715
Birch	3016	2352	1033
Oak	3758	2932	1287
Aspen	2181	1701	747

Table: Power ratio and chimney

Power heat transfer, kW	Linear dimensions of a rectangular chimney, mm
Less than 3.5	140x140.
3,5 – 5,2	140x200.
5,2 – 7,2	140x270.
7,2 – 10,5	200x200.
10,5 – 14	200x270.
More than 14.	270x270.

Determination of the area of \u200b\u200bthe pipe of the circular section

If the metal tubes of circular section, its area is calculated by the formula: S \u003d pR 2 where S - the desired area, p - the coefficient equal to 3.14, and R - the radius of the circumference of the pipe. With slow oxidation of fuel (in mode), the heat transfer is reduced to 10-30% of the level of the flame burning phase. However, the chimney must still be calculated at greater power, using the data obtained from the above formula.

Materials and Tools for the construction of a Dutch furnace

To work, you will need:

• mason Mason, Kelm, Hammer-Kirk, Fishing, Knife;

  Basic Mason Tools - Kelma, Hammer - Kirk, Box

• measuring instruments - roulette, level, plumb, construction cord;

  Roulette will need to measure oven sizes

• capacities for kneading solutions, Soviet shovel;
• electrode with a mixing nozzle (mixer);

  Power tools for the kneading solution will come in handy in the construction of the furnace

• bulgarian with a diamond disk, with which you can cut bricks;
• poryadovkoy - smooth wooden rake marked up on the brick rows (it is set vertically and placed on the incision tool is easy to do and their own);
• building stapler.

List of materials for the Dutch stove:

• red bricks full-length;

  Full-time red bricks use to masonry oven

• refractory bricks, chamoten;

  Fireproof brick of the SB-5 brand needed for masonry of the heat chamber

• a set of furnace casting - furnaces of firebox and pondered, smoking valves, tops, grate with a grille (if a cooking compartment is planned in the furnace, a cast-iron stove will be required);

  When building, Dutch is used cast iron casting for a furnace - a grate grid, smoking valves, a view

• materials for the solution - clay, sand and water (you can buy a ready-made mixture);

  Dry clay mix need for masonry oven

• several meters of steel released wire (0.4-0.8 mm in diameter);
• asbestos seal in the form of a cord or gasket;

  Metal parts seal in the form of asbestos cord is used in the construction of Dutch

• outdoor umbrella of sheet metal (for brick chimney);

  The umbrella is installed on the oven headpoint and serves to protect the masonry from moisture

• metal reinforcement grid and several rubberoid sheets or other waterproofing material (for the foundation device);

  The size of the cell and the thickness of the reinforcement is selected in accordance with the size of the foundation

• plaques for formwork.

Preparatory work before assembling oven

Before installing the furnace, fill the foundation and make holes in inter-storey and attic floors.

Pouring foundation

If the installation of the stove is planned at the construction stage of the house, then the foundation is poured at its location. According to the rules, it is not associated with the general foundation of the house, but lay separately. This prevents unwanted bias that may arise during shrinkage. The construction of the building is carried out simultaneously with the masonry furnace, when the carrier beams are located, take into account the height of the housing of the stove and chimney.

For furnace equipment poured the foundation not related to the main foundation of the house

If the solution to establish the heating unit arose in ready House, carefully weigh and appreciate the work that you have to spend. The most significant includes the preparation of the foundation and the rocking of the chimney through attic or inter-storey floors. Sometimes it is more expedient to remove the pipe through the wall: the Dutch has such an opportunity.

Foundation preparation is carried out in advance. Cement mortar should dry and sit down at least 30 days. Only after that the furnace installation begins. Otherwise, deformations are possible during operation, which leads to cracking of the thin walls of the stove and the violation of the chimney tightness. To avoid such consequences, the foundation is poured in accordance with the rules:

There are several layers of basalt cardboard between the base of the furnace and the waterproofing, which serves as a heat insulator and prevents the heat from the head of the furnace to the foundation.

Basalt cardboard - inexpensive, but effective material for thermal insulation

Preparation of holes in the floors between the floors and the attic room

The holes are carved taking into account fire cutting cuts and rollers, which need to be built in chimney when contact with combustible materials. Especially relevant in wooden houses. It is necessary to calculate the location of the pipe so that it does not intersect with carriage beams and others constructive elements at home. The hole in the roof is recently done when the main part of the masonry is made.

Hole for chimney is preparing in advance so that you can watch the plumb

The output of the chimney outward may be as follows:

1. Remove the roof at the pipe outlet. If the roof is covered with a solid layer of material, which cannot be divided (for example, professional flooring, slate, etc.), using measurements to determine the output location and sizes, and then cut it with a grinder or electroltrol bike.
2. Install the jumpers to restore the rigidity of the damaged area. This is usually additional transverse rafters from wooden bars.
3. To put and secure the heat insulating layer between the chimney and the roof. As a rule, it consists of an asbestos sheet or mineral panels.

The hole is to be done, taking into account the fact that at the outlet of the pipe must be laid out "otter" - a horizontal displacement of the masonry, protecting the attic space from water penetration.

The otter is located directly at the outlet of the roof pipe

After that, you can remove brickwork over the roof.

Fire safety rates for chimneys is important to observe during the construction of Dutch

One of the options for making a furnace with your own hands

For a heating and a cooking furnace, as a very practical option for a cottage or country house, the order looks like this:

Holy Hall Type Holland - Optimal Country House Design

Since when laying, a certain accuracy is required, the masters wet every brick in the water. Thanks to this, moisture from the solution is not suused. Usually, all bricks for one or two rows are dipped at all the bricks with liquid. And as they use new.

To get the skill of masonry work, initially several rows without a solution can be folded. If everything turns out, you can go to this masonry.

Participate should be paid to waterproofing between the foundation and the hull of the Dutch. It is made from Ruberoid in two layers before the first next. Some advise to lay out the first row of thermal insulation bricks, since this type of furnace has most of the heat can go down.

Insulator serves rubberoid, only synthetic materials

Operating procedure:

1. The first row is laid out with a solid surface. You need to properly observe the dressing, as indicated in the diagram.
2. The second and third rows are also solid, but the order of the brick is different in them. As a result, a monolithic furnace basis is obtained, according to which the load is evenly distributed.

   In the forefront, it is necessary to comply with the correct layout of bricks.

3. In the fourth row, set the doors of the ashtar. When installing, it is recommended to use asbestos cord, which is wound on the end side of the frame with a thickness of 4-5 mm. You can fix the door in several ways, but the optimal is the option using special paws.

   Installation of the door pissed performed on the fourth row of masonry

4. The fifth row is the same as the fourth. The masonry lead from the right angle with the dressing to Pollockich.

   Completion of rollerck masonry

5. On the sixth row overlap the ash chamber using the steel strip.
6. The seventh row is the beginning of the furnace, which must be postponed with chamoten brick. Immediately put the door of the furnace.

   Installation of the door of the furnace chamber is performed on the seventh row of masonry

7. Install grades with a gap for thermal expansion 4-5 mm.
8. The overlap of the ash bar is eight, and 9-14 form a fuel chamber of chammed bricks.
9. In the tenth row, they overlap the flock chamber and install specially made bricks for mounting the hob. The holes on the metal plate are cut with a grinder.

   On the tenth row of masonry overlap the flue chamber

10. Up to 13 rows form space over tiles. Bricks lay out strictly according to the scheme.
11. In 14 row, bricks with grooves are mounted, in which a metal corner is inserted, which supports the weight of the following levels.
12. The fifteenth row overlaps the recess over the stove, and the door to clean the chimney is located in 16 and 17. Installation is similar to all previous cast iron elements.

    Installing the door for cleaning the chimney is performed on 15 row

13. From the 18th to the 22nd row makes chimney channel.
14. In 23 row, the chimney is installed on the chimney channel. For this, bricks are configured so that there is a place for asbestos gasket between the masonry and metal.

    Installation of chimney valve is carried out on 23 row

15. In 24 and 25 rows, the downstream and lifting channels are connected, and in 26 - 28 form chimney. In the course of the masonry make a lining of the inner surface of the channels. This will improve gases and create a normally functioning traction.

    The formation of chimney channels is performed on 24 and 25 row

16. In 29 and 30 rows establish a valve regulating the total thrust in the chimney.
17. Overlap the valve and form the yield of the chimney.

    Heating and cooking dutch furnace rectangular design is easy to build yourself

If the house has a floor from a tree, for the purpose of fire safety, it is necessary to establish a finishing apron. It is made of leaf iron, thickness from 0.5 mm. The size is selected so that the wood is protected from sparks and coals that can fly from the furnace. Under the metal additionally fill asbestos gasket.

Asbestos gasket creates additional floor protection against fire

After completion of the masonry, it is necessary to dry the furnace. It may take time from week to two, depending on temperature conditions. At this time, you need to leave all the valves and doors open. You can put the included electrical lamp in the furnace to accelerate the process.

Video: oven-holland do it yourself

Decor of the furnace

Brick masonry made of high-quality bricks, herself may look impressive. But the Dutch is often decorated - covered with tiles, cafeter and other finishing materials. In the skillful hands, the ordinary furnace turns into a work of art. For decorations use:

• majolica;

  Skillfully folded clinker brick is an excellent facing material

  Choosing a coating for a furnace, pay attention not only to the price, but also on specifications, especially environmental fitness. We must not forget that exploitation will be held in conditions of elevated temperature.

  Features of operation

  A characteristic feature of dutch furnace is the increased length of chimney channels. It is thanks to this that the oven works so well for heat transfer. But at the same time, with such a device, the probability of carbon monoxide penetration increases in a residential premises. So that this does not happen, it is important to comply with the correct mode of the furnace: the heating temperature of the housing should not exceed 60 o Celsius.

  Furnace cleaning and repair

  So that the Holland worked without surprises, it is necessary to monitor its technical condition:

  • to clean the ash of the furnace daily and pondered;
  • once a year to perform prophylactic cleaning of the chimney;
  • once every 4-5 years carry out the revision of the inner and outer walls, when cracking is detected - to eliminate.

  Build a dutch oven yourself without assistance Under the power of each person. Observing the recommendations described and following the schemes of the coach, the heating unit is easy to fold in 1 week.

Trendy heating device has long ceased to be wonder modern interiorIn this connection, having learned about the development of new models, consumers tirelessly increase their requirements for their ergonomics and functionalism. One of these structures, fully satisfied the requirements of consumers, has become the furnace of Holland, widely used in construction, as an imperious dacha Domikovand stylish cottages. It is one of those unique structures in which simplicity of construction, and the tremendous efficiency of work. In contrast to the classic of a Russian oven, the oven Holland is characterized by significantly more modest dimensions and a smaller wall thickness, which contributes to its faster warming. Given this, the heating stove of Holland becomes the most popular choice of owners of stylish and modern cottages who want not only to manage their budget, but also to equip their dwelling in accordance with all ergonomics rules. Due to the fact that the services of professionals associated with the masonry of the Dutch furnace are considerable money, we strongly recommend that you equip the dutch oven with your own hands using our recommendations.

Oven Holland: Historical Help

The Dutch oven is known since the times of Columbus, but despite this, the true world popularity gained only in the 16th century, when the Netherlands became an independent state. With the arrangement of the 18th century Dutch oven has become almost the norm, and the 19th century was marked by the massive recognition Dutch oven, then this design has become dominant in choosing radiators. In the era of the Middle Ages and the New Time, the Holland began to be associated with exquisite tiles with the image of the paintings of great artists who decorate the oven, and since then the tiles and the furnace of Holland - the concepts are inseparable. Currently, this method of decor has lost its importance, but despite this, he is still a historical satellite of the Dutch furnace, which can be seen below.

Furnace Holland photo

Constructive features of the Dutch furnace. Differences from traditional furnaces

Despite the fact that you can build a Dutch oven of any form, be it oval, round or square, the classic version is characterized by a strictly rectangular shape. If you decide to allow the variability of the forms of the furnace, you need to know that the shape of the fuel is not anything remains - rectangular. The main difference of the kilns of the Dutch from other varieties is the absence of a grate grid. The design, for the manufacture of which uses a full-length ceramic brick, is characterized by the presence of the following components:

• The topwear, also called the furnace, is a furnace niche, which is located at the base at the bottom of the furnace and is intended for laying coal or firewood;
• Chimney, part of which is the exhaust pipe, forms a six-channel system consisting of 3 lifting and 3 squeezed channels that are located one under another, which ensures the consistent passage of gases on the system. But, in contrast to traditional furnaces, the design of the Dutch does not imply the presence of a grate grid.

• Due to the absence of imagined and the grate of the grid, the firewood in this furnace is characterized by a low burning intensity, since oxygen coming to fuel only through the fuel door is not enough to maintain active burning.
• Due to the fact that small dimensions are characterized for this furnace, it will successfully fit into the interior of any premises, and, it is important, it allows you to equip the systems of both gas and water heating.
• Door for cleaning chimneys from soot.
• In addition to the traditional constructive version of the furnace, exceptions can be found: Dutch furnaces equipped with a fireplace, a cooking surface or a brass cabinet.
• Experts recommend for small structures to build walls with a thickness of one brick, and in two bricks for more massive structures. Only this thickness can provide maximum heat transfer with minimal fuel consumption, characteristic of the Dutch furnace.

The advantages and disadvantages of the Dutch furnace

What you need to know about the advantages of the country of Dutch?

• Construction variability. With the exception of gross technical errors, the design variations will not have the slightest effect on the strength and efficiency of the device;
• High functionality: Dutch, originally intended for heating, can be equipped with a cooking surface and use for cooking;
• Small dimensions ovens may not exceed 0.5x 0.5 m;
• Smaller compared to traditional furnaces, consumption of material not exceeding for a massive structure of 650 bricks, while the minimum consumption of bricks for a Russian oven - 1300 bricks, and to warm the small Russian oven will be much worse;
• The low weight due to the small consumption of materials allows you to install a dutch on the upper floors of the country cottages, since the maximum stove load does not exceed the maximum permissible load for standard inter-storey floors;
• Usuality to materials - the characteristic feature of the Dutch. It is due to the rational design of the furnace and the small thickness of the walls, which makes it resistant to deformations under the action of temperatures. In this connection, even the hollow brick can be chosen as the main material for Dutch, which will not affect its functional characteristics. The only thing that cannot be saved is, this is the material for the furnace, it must certainly be made of refractory brick;
• Due to the fact that the Holland is quickly warming up and slowly cools, with regular use of the furnace you can forget about the overpowering of fuel;
• High heat transfer: unlike a Russian oven, hardly coping with the heating of the room, which is 45 square meters. m, Holland easily heats 60-70 square meters. meters.

And now a few words about the disadvantages:

• The chimney, which is based on the channel system, acts as a siphon, through which heat is blowing. This contributes to the rapid cooler of the furnace and the associated, low efficiency;
• It is not recommended to heat the dutch with fuel characterized by instant combustion: it includes a brushwood, dry reed and straw. In the process of its burning, due to the chimney channel system, the oven does not have time to warm up properly. In this regard, the qualitative functioning of the furnace is only possible when the fuel is in the mode;
• If for the furnace of the Dutch to use low-grade high-voltage fuel, it is fraught with excessive sedimentation of soot in chimney, which can cause fire.
• It is very important not to flip the Dutch oven, since, overheating, it begins to highlight the carbon monoxide.

Note! Optimal temperature Dutch is 50-60 degrees. This temperature is easy to determine the touch: if, touching the palm to the furnace, you can still tolerate, and when contacting the back side of the palm with the furnace, feel a strong burning, then the temperature does not exceed 60 degrees.

From a mechanical point of view, the principle of operation of the furnace is extremely simple. Gases heated in the fuel can first come into chimney, or rather to the first lifting channel. Passing through it, and reaching the top, characterized by a fairly low temperature, pass through the second opening, without ceasing to give thermal energy stove walls. Having reached the firebox, they again undergo heating, after which they rise again, but already on the third channel. The same principle underlies the passage of heat through the fourth and fifth channels. Only after that, on the sixth mine, the air reaches the fuel and comes through the chimney.

The newcomer, who first decided to try his hand in the construction industry, specialists strongly recommend pre-folding the oven in accordance with all the recommendations presented, but without using a concrete solution. After conducting this experiment, which received the Prosaic name "Dry Masonry", will save time on the development of the furnace drawing and at the same time prevent the most common errors. In order for the quality of the masonry of the finished furnace to fail you, it is necessary to clearly follow the instructions and the drawings proposed by professionals. This will avoid the basic mistake of newbies - the poor quality of masonry due to the common "Eye Construction".

Honce oven do it yourself: materials and tools

Before planning the system, refer to the place in advance for its placement. It will be perfect if you do it at the construction stage of the house. The next stage is the selection qualitative materials and tools. For a sample furnace of a Dutch designed to heat the room with an area of \u200b\u200b40 square meters. m, the following materials and tools will be required:

• 200 refractory bricks;
• River sand, preferably sinking;
• Wire, easy to flexing;
• Gravel crushed stone and blue clay required for a more resistant clutch of the solution;
• Cement;
• Ruberoid required for waterproofing;
• Door for the arrangement of the fively, preferably factory production;
• Dry glue for masonry furnaces with refractory.
• From the tools you will need a construction level, trunk, shovel, roulette and other tools from the standard set.

Manufacturing of the Dutch Furnace: Step-by-step instructions

In order to prevent the occurrence of rough technical errors in the installation, before starting the installation activities, experts recommend to draw up a scheme of a future design, in accordance with which you will subsequently install the design.

Furnishing Holland scheme

At the first stage, it is necessary to dig a hole with the following parameters: the width of the parties is 50 cm, the depth is 75-80 cm. Penno pits with river sand with a layer height of 10 cm and a 10-centimeter gravel layer. Top to put the reinforced mesh in such a way that it occupies the rest of the pit. Then prepare a concrete solution based on the ratio of cement to the sand, like 3: 1. Prepare the formwork of the corresponding sizes from plywood or wood and pour the section with a concrete solution, then leave it 7 days before complete drying.

After the final drying of the foundation, the beds on it are two identical pieces of rubberoid, and on top evenly apply clay, which at least two days was pulled out in water in accordance with the following ratio: on 8 liters of clay, it is necessary to take about 1 kg (or rather 900 g) heat-resistant glue. and 2 sand buckets. Before applying the mixture to the surface evenly mix it and, making sure that the consistency of the mixture resembles a thick sour cream, proceed to applying it.

Coach of the furnace of Dutch

If objectively you do not consider yourself professionals in the construction sphere, experienced masters are recommended to start with dry masonry, that is, the masonry of the Dutch furnaces without use, which will help to avoid possible errors. Dutch furnace diagram is very variable and depends on the size of the design. In our article we describe the order of work on the construction of a furnace of small sizes.

First row brick masonry Located in sand, moistened with water, which is laid out throughout the area concrete foundation. It is important to know that before the pouring of the solution it is necessary to check the level and according to the measurement results, it should be strictly vertical;

The first and second rows of oven masonry should be solid. At the same time, it is impossible to forget about the rules of the ligament between bricks;

At the level of the third row, it is necessary to start forming an ash chamber, which is a space for ovenwhich connects with a horizontal channel. After you started the formation of an ash chamber, you can proceed to install the door for the ash chamber;

The masonry of the 4th row is based on increasing the overall furnace array, in connection with which, at this stage, the installation of the furnace doors are proceeded, which causes the need to lay parts of the metal wire, which will be required to secure the door. At this stage, we need to mention the features of the masonry: if in the process of masonry the first three rows of bricks, the plastics were laid, then the masonry of the fourth row implies their installation on the edge right up to the top edge of the door;

At the level of the fifth row, the ash tick is installed, and in the process of masonry the sixth, the dutch furnace array is again returned;

After you put the shepherd doors, it is overlapped at the level of 7 rows, and the bricks are placed again. The same is repeated on the 8th row;

If your furnace arrangement scheme involves the presence of a cooking surface, it is necessary to release a place for it, which can be achieved by shifting the 9th and 10th levels several times. After that, it is equipped with a flue hole. After laying the 9th row, the non-flammable material (asbestos cord) is placed on its top, and install it hobster. The 10th row is associated with the formation of the base for the future chimney. In the furnaces, characterized by ease and low weight, install metal chimneySince the brick chimney will significantly lose its design.

In the process of masonry of the 11th row, the valve is set, which is characterized by the presence of asbestos seal. At this level, the masonry is performed in a quarter, since it was here that the joints of the chimney and the furnace are localized;

At the level of the 14th row, the furnace is overlapped at the top, and in the back wall it is necessary to leave a hole intended for the emission of excess smoke. The same is performed at the level of the 15th row;

The 16th and 17th row is associated with the formation of a clean door, which can be replaced by a conventional brick, laid without concrete solution;

By placing the 18th row, it is important to remember that it is the founding of the chimney of the furnace. After its formation, a chimney is installed, which can be purchased or made of similar type of bricks.

• For the room, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 40 square meters. Meters, you can calculate the necessary furnace sizes. With an height of a furnace, a component of 210 mm, the optimal is considered to be the size of 780 x 580 mm.
• To improve the quality of masonry, before using bricks, specialists advise each of them to immerse a few minutes into water, which helps to remove air bubbles from them. Thanks to the implementation of this procedure, the brick will not absorb the solution, which will increase the quality of the masonry;
• Since the door frames, installed during the masonry process, are exposed to temperature effects, before installing in the oven, they must be wrapped with asbestos cord or to cover with varnish with refractory properties;

• The most frequent problem that requires the repair activities of the furnace, which was previously in operation, is chipping bricks in the ends and corners of the furnace. To prevent this, in the masonry process, it is finished with specialized plates of various shapes;
• Another important indicator of the quality and long-term operation of the Dutch furnace, according to experienced cooks, is the distance between the chimney pipe and the roof overlaps. Ideally, it should be at least 15 cm.

In conclusion

On many sites, you can find a large number of articles in which it is naive to argue that the arrangement of the country of the Dutch does not represent any difficulties and even the most inexperienced developer will cope with it. But this is far from the wrong, and if you do not feel confrered in your skills, we recommend that you become patience and diligence, as well as carefully examine the recommendations presented in the manuals that are written by more experienced masters. In our article, experienced masters shared with you the experience of the construction of the furnace of the Dutch, and if you clearly follow them, you will be able to equip the furnace of the Dutch with your own hands, avoiding serious mistakes that often conquer the tragedy. In this regard, we recommend that you do not engage in self-identity and experiments in the bary, and clearly follow the advice of the masters.

Furnace Holland video