It is difficult to call a private house comfortable if it is not equipped with a well-thought-out, well-functioning drainage system. It is as much a part of civilized existence as electricity, ventilation and heating. Environmental and efficiency requirements are imposed on such an important component of the home communications network; the drainage system of a private house should be simple to arrange and convenient to use.

Schematic diagram of the sewage system in a private house

One of the main issues of improvement is sewerage for a private house; how to design it correctly and what to focus on during installation will help you figure out the rules that have been tested empirically.

Varieties of sewage systems in a private house

All houses located in the private sector are conventionally divided into two categories:

Houses with the ability to connect to the city (central) network. In most cases - the best option, with a long service life and no problems with maintenance, unplanned waste and water quality control.

Houses in which connection to a centralized system is not possible. The fact that the city network is not available is not a reason to give up comfort. In such conditions, the sewerage system in a private house is reduced to an autonomous option, where water purification and waste disposal takes place in a locally installed treatment plant.

You can also combine sewer and drainage systems

The autonomous sewerage system includes:

Internal sewerage responsible for the collection of wastewater and their output to the outside. It includes internal wiring (piping system), as well as plumbing and household appliances.

Outdoor sewerage... Its elements are external piping and a water purification device (septic tank or autonomous sewage system).

The most suitable (in terms of performance) type of individual cleaning equipment is chosen, taking into account several factors:

seasonality of living in the house;

intensity of water use;

the size of the site, the type and structure of the soil;

groundwater level;

climatic conditions region.

The first stage in the installation of the sewerage system is the development of a preliminary design scheme.

Rules for drawing up a sewerage scheme in the house

The sewerage scheme in a private house is tied to the plan of the house. It should contain the key elements of the system - a riser (if the building has more than one floor), pipe markings (internal wiring, corners and turns), water drain points.

When designing, it is important to remember that an overly complicated circuit will in the future cause problems during operation and repair.

Internal wiring is laid during the construction of the house. Its installation begins when the roof of the house and floors are installed, but Finishing work premises have not yet been fulfilled. The external sewage system is installed after the internal system is fully equipped. Below is a sewerage scheme for a private two-story house:

General scheme of internal sewerage in a two-story house

The procedure for drawing up the scheme:

All drawings are built to scale, the place of installation of the riser, the line for laying pipes, the number of drain points (connecting plumbing and household appliances) is applied to the plan.

The size of the riser is determined, the total length of the pipeline (taking into account the outlet) is calculated, the point of exit from the structure of the main riser.

In places of possible clogging, cleaning and revisions are provided.

A separate drawing is built for each floor.

The size and place of installation of the sewer pipe is calculated (in large sewer systems, it prevents the occurrence of a vacuum in the sewer pipe)

The external communications scheme is based on the same principle.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of designing and installing sewerage and water supply. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

About the sewage system with a fan pipe in the video:

Selection of pipes for internal sewerage

The following categories of pipes are allowed by building codes:

Cast iron... Traditional (until recently) solution. Cast iron products are strong, corrosion resistant and durable. The disadvantage is the weight and roughness of the inner surface. The latter quality contributes to the formation of deposits and the appearance of blockages. The pipes are ideal for burial.

Plastic... They are lighter and cheaper than their cast iron counterparts, have a smooth surface, but are less durable. Pipes for inter-house wiring have grey colour; for external use are made of orange plastic. The most popular options include:

Pipes from Pvc(polyvinyl chloride). Frost-resistant and wear-resistant, the main disadvantage is high hardness. They soften from high temperatures and are mainly used in outdoor work.

Pipes from PP(polypropylene). Elastic, lightweight and durable. They are appreciated for their heat resistance (soften only at 140 ° C), therefore they are ideal for indoor use.

Plastic pipes for internal and external circuit

Less common ceramic and asbestos-cement analogs.

In practice, the installation of a sewage system in a private house in most cases is carried out using products from polymer materials(plastic). The choice is due to the absence of corrosion (plastic is resistant to the aggressive environment of drains), and easy installation of structures.

How is sewer wiring done

The most time consuming part of the work is considered to be the sewerage system for a private house; how to carry it out correctly is indicated in the design and installation rules.

Inside the house

Elements of the sewerage system for a private house are mounted in parallel with the construction of the building. Holes for internal wiring are laid during the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings.

Sewerage installation technology provides for several types of pipes:

Sewer riser, diameter 100 mm.

Trunk (between the riser and the branch); diameter 70 mm.

Branch pipes (connected to a washbasin, bath, washing machine) - 50 mm.

Completed installation of the branch pipe

The spillway system inside the house is gravity (gravity). To avoid blockages, pipes are mounted with a slope, the value of which is controlled by the level and depends on the diameter. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 40-50 mm is given a slope of 30 mm per running meter, with a diameter of 100 mm - 20 mm.

Completed ceiling wiring

Horizontal wiring is performed using oblique tees and adapters (crosses) for connection. Turns are carried out using two knees with a smooth bend at an angle of 45 °; this arrangement reduces the risk of clogging. After each turn, revisions (cleaning) are provided. Right angles are only allowed in vertically positioned structures.

Fan pipe

With a sharp entry into the sewer a large number drains, the latter can completely fill the entire diameter of the pipe. At the same time, when the drains go down, an area of ​​low atmospheric pressure (rarefaction) is created behind them, into which water from the siphon and air from the room are sucked in with characteristic sounds.

When the pressure is equalized, then without a water plug through the siphons, the smell from the sewer enters the room back into the room. To prevent the occurrence of a vacuum, a fan pipe with an air valve is installed - they are responsible for maintaining atmospheric pressure in all parts of the sewer system.

Features of the funnel pipe:

Designed and displayed 50-70 cm above the roof.

It is forbidden to combine it with a chimney or ventilation.

It is not placed near windows or balconies.

Outlet of the exhaust (fan) pipe through the roof

Outer part

Installation of the external part of the sewer system begins after determining the location of the septic tank.

The outlet (a connecting link between the external and internal sewers at the border of the room) is laid at the base of the house below the freezing point of the soil and is thermally insulated. If it was not foreseen during the laying of the foundation, it is necessary to drill a hole for the thermowell, 200-250 mm wider than the pipe diameter. Its edge should protrude 15 cm from each side of the foundation. The space between the sleeve and the outlet pipe is filled with foam.

Laying of external communications

It is reasonable to locate wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom) side by side and at the same time as close as possible to the central riser. This will help to shorten the length of the sewer lines to the riser, which will facilitate installation and further maintenance.

A large project (swimming pool, bathhouse, sauna), additional plumbing means a large amount of drains. You will need a carefully designed water supply and drainage scheme, additional risers and septic tanks, pump connection.

Sewerage pipes in a private house can be placed under the floor, in the walls, or laid on top. A water seal is installed near the sink, in the shower and in the toilet, thanks to which extraneous odors cannot enter the premises.

It is inadmissible to arbitrarily change the slope. Its increase will lead to a deterioration in the self-cleaning of the system and the appearance of strong noises. When the slope decreases, the water flow slows down, which is fraught with blockage.

Slope control when laying sewers

The complex relief of the site creates additional problems for laying the pipeline with a slope. In this case, an axonometric diagram is built to determine the position of the sewer elements in space. If difficult places cannot be bypassed, the installation of a pump will be the solution.

Clearly about some of the nuances of the sewage system in the video:

Conclusion

A well-designed and organized sewerage system will help create necessary minimum comfort for the inhabitants of the house. The attraction of specialized specialists contributes to the achievement of this worthy goal. It doesn't matter whether it is a wooden house or a brick one - the principles of the system are the same everywhere.

Ensuring comfort and quality life in a country house is an important point for any owner of such a building. One of the factors that make it possible to ensure a comfortable life is the convenience of the outflow of used water and waste products. A sewage system correctly calculated at the design stage and subsequently correctly built in a private house will be the key to long-term operation, in which there will be no problems. You can create such a design with your own hands, if you approach the issue with the utmost responsibility.

Primary requirements

In order to avoid any problems in the process of creating a sewer in own home, it is best to follow as much as possible in this process all the requirements and standards that are described in the regulatory documentation - SNiP. In this case, everything will definitely function flawlessly for a long period of time.

In any building where a water supply is laid and there is a water intake, a system must be installed that will remove the waste masses. Drainage mechanisms should be established at the sites as well. In general, such a network will be able not only to provide a comfortable life, but also not harm the environment, and will also significantly increase the time of using the building.

Typically, the sewerage system consists of the following systems:

• stormwater that drains water;
• outdoor;
• internal.

They must be laid so that the various construction sanitary requirements for the sewage system in your own home are met.

These requirements include:

• ensuring normal cleansing;
• no risk of flooding the building;
• ensuring the required volume Wastewater;
• tight accumulation and transportation of waste water.

If we talk about the requirements for internal systems of this type, then they should consist of the following elements:

• the riser to which all pipes are attached;
• dilution of pipes, which pumps waste water in the direction of the riser;
• plumbing fixtures for drainage.

According to the norms, in the mechanism, part of which is located in the building, there must be enough space for the free transportation of liquid from the places where the drain is carried out to the pipes that carry out the outlet outside the building. When laying sewers inside a building, pipes made of cast iron or some kind of polymers are used. At the outlet, the size of such a pipe should be 11 centimeters. Naturally, this mechanism must also have ventilation. Usually it is passed through the riser. Above each element, an exhaust place is made that overlooks the roof.

If we talk about the project of external systems, then its creation is carried out taking into account the requirements prescribed in SNiP No. 2.04.03-85.

According to this regulatory document, the following points should be taken into account:

• wells should be installed in the mechanism for maintenance and cleaning;
• for the purification of effluents, a plant using biological methods is needed;
• if we are talking about a gravity network, then polymer, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes are used;
• pipes that are located outside the boundaries of the building should be about fifteen centimeters in diameter and laid at the level of ten to twelve centimeters;
• if the building has few floors, then several houses can be combined into a single network;
• if it is impossible to arrange a gravity system, then it is better to make a choice in favor of a pressure sewage system.

Another important point is the selection of the design. This is really important when designing an autonomous sewer network.

There can be three options for septic tanks that are used:

• aerotanks;
• storage septic tank;
• treatment plant.

Now let's talk about them in more detail. Aerotanks - latest solutions using several cleaning techniques. After using such a septic tank, the liquid is purified to almost 100 percent. Water can be easily taken out into the ground, pond and used for irrigation. A septic tank of a storage category is an improved version of a cesspool in which no cleaning is carried out, but only drains are collected. When the septic tank is filled to a certain level, it becomes necessary to clean it. This is usually done using special sewage equipment.

If we talk about the differences from the cesspool, then no filtration into the ground is carried out in this case. This means that no harm is done to the environment. But still, this type of septic tank is used in last years extremely infrequently due to the high cost of services for special sewage equipment. This type can be used only if you live in the house relatively infrequently.

Treatment septic tanks are used not only for accumulation, but also for the purification of sewage. As a rule, at first, the effluents settle in them, after which decomposition occurs at the biological level with the help of special bacteria - anaerobic and aerobic, which are specially added to the ground for this purpose.

Their use allows water to be purified by about 65 percent, after which it goes into the ground, where it is further purified.

For this reason the best types soils for this category of septic tanks will be sandy and sandy loam. If the earth is clay, then it is better to use another septic tank, although this option is not prohibited in this case. It is just that then the installation of a septic tank will be too expensive, since special styling will still be necessary to create filtration fields.

Views

In your own home, sewage can be of several types and is classified according to various criteria.

Usually these criteria can be three:

• the location of the sewage system;
• the purposes for the realization of which it will be used;
• the difference in the type of effluent that will be collected.

If we take the first two criteria, then the system under consideration is the following.

• Outdoor. It is a complex for receiving wastewater from buildings and other facilities and transporting them to special treatment facilities or to a place of discharge into the water intake of a centralized sewerage system. Typically, this includes pipelines, as well as rotary and revision type wells.
• Internal. Such a sewage system collects wastewater inside the house thanks to special water intake devices and pipeline systems, after which it transports them along the highway to a special external sewage complex.
• Cleaning and waste water. Before the wastewater is discharged into the ground or pond, it must be cleaned thanks to a special four-stage system, which consists of several levels (physical-chemical, disinfection, mechanical, biological).

If we take the criterion of the collected drains, then the sewerage is the following.

• Domestic. It can also be called household or household fecal. Usually it is designated K1. This type of sewerage includes the entire complex of devices that are supplied to various plumbing fixtures. This includes trays, ladders, siphons, funnels, as well as a network of various pipelines, which consist of pipes of different sizes, fastening mechanisms and fittings.
• Industrial or manufacturing. Usually in the diagrams, its designation goes under the abbreviation K3. This type of sewerage is intended to drain water that is used in some kind of technological process. This type of sewage system is not used in their own homes, but it cannot be ignored.
• Storm or rain. This type is usually designated as K2. Such a system is a whole set of drainpipes, gutters, sand traps, storm water inlets, funnels, and so on. Usually, most of such a mechanism is laid in the open, but pipelines under the foundation can also be used to transport rainwater somewhere outside the site.

It should also be noted that the sewage system in a private house can be of two types:

• autonomous;
• centralized.

The type chosen will depend on where exactly the waste water will be discharged - into its own septic tank or into the central main through a collector-type well. If local sewerage passes near the house and connecting to it will be cheap, it will be more profitable to connect to it due to the fact that the cost of using in this case will still be less.

In addition, treatment systems can be different in nature.

These are the following types:

• septic tank:
• dry closet;
• biological treatment using a special unit;
• cesspool.

The septic tank has already been mentioned, and therefore we will say about other types. A dry closet will be a suitable solution only for a cottage where the owners rarely live. And he does not solve the issue of drains from the shower and kitchen. Purification using a special station is advantageous with high productivity and a good degree of wastewater treatment. But the costs for this option will be considerable due to the need for energy consumption and the high cost of equipment. The cesspool option was not so long ago the most common. But recently, the amount of drains has increased significantly, and few cesspools can cope with it. In addition, the risk of land pollution has increased significantly for this reason.

Preparatory work

Each of the above solutions for treatment facilities requires a clear understanding of the device and the purposes for which it will be used. For this reason, before starting work on the creation of a sewage system, the necessary preparation should be carried out so that the system can really work efficiently after it is built and put into operation.

What do you need to consider?

Before starting to create a sewage system, you should calculate everything to the smallest detail. And the first factor that will be extremely important is the choice of a place for the installation of the system.

Its placement will be influenced by such factors.

• How close the groundwater is.
• The relief features of the territory where the sewerage will be located. Here we are talking about the fact that the movement of water is usually carried out by gravity, which means that the slope of the soil will be extremely important.
• The physical structure of the soil.
• The presence or absence of sources drinking water.
• How much in winter period the soil freezes.

Sandy soil is usually loose, which is why liquid can easily pass through it, which means there is a possibility of contamination with household waste. Using the simplest solution as an example - a septic tank made from concrete rings or from tires, we will consider what needs to be taken into account. First, you need to calculate its volume. We will proceed from the fact that one family member who lives in a house takes two hundred liters of water, which must be settled for three days.

That is, for a family of four members, a septic tank with a volume of slightly less than 2.5 thousand liters will be needed.

In addition to the factors mentioned above, it should be said that the distance to the nearest residential building should be no more than five meters. It should be the same up to the next site. If there is a highway nearby, then the distance should be twenty meters. And if there is a reservoir or water intake point nearby, then the distance should be at least fifty meters. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that if there is elevated level groundwater, then the structure must be supplemented with a pump or pump for transporting groundwater to the filter well.

Another factor to consider is the choice of pipe materials.... It is on this factor that the time of using the entire mechanism will depend. If we are talking about an internal sewage system, then pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride with a cross section of 11 centimeters are usually used here, and for breeding - with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters. Their cost will be lower than metal pipes, and their service life will be long.

Connections should usually be made with rubber cuffs, which are sealed with a special silicone-based substance. If we are talking about installing the outer part, then other orange pipes are used. They are executed in such colors to make them easier to find in the ground. They are made of extra strong plastic and also have a diameter of 11 centimeters.

Design

As it became clear, any work of an assembly and construction nature cannot be carried out without the preliminary creation of design documentation. And the installation of the sewage system will be no exception. A sewerage scheme is being formed with general plan the location of the so-called wet elements. The wiring can be configured as you like, depending on the wishes of the customer.

Important aspects should be listed that cannot be ignored:

• the drainage from the room where the toilet is located should be carried out exclusively using pipes with a cross section of 10-12 centimeters with a length of at least 1 meter;
• under the drains from the shower room and kitchen, you can use polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene pipes of five centimeters in size;
• if the building has two or more floors and there is more than one toilet, then they should be placed exclusively on top of each other (for a one-story house this rule does not work and you can place it anywhere);
• wiring bends should be made by combining two plastic elbows, the bend of which has an angle of forty-five degrees, which should minimize the risk of clogging the sewer;

• the toilet should be connected directly to the sewer riser at a minimum distance from the pipe;
• other plumbing fixtures should be connected to the sewer network above the point of connection of the toilet bowl in order to exclude the possibility of feces getting into the drain line;
• the sewer riser must be brought out to the roof and a fan exhaust must be installed on it in order to ensure the inside of the sewer ventilation;
• the greatest distance for connecting sanitary-type appliances to the riser should not be higher than three meters, and the toilet bowl should not be higher than a meter.

In addition, other expert advice should be given:

• when creating a project for an internal sewage system, you must first draw up a construction scheme on a scale, before that, having carried out all measurements with a tape measure;
• now it is necessary to determine the installation site of the risers;
• conventionally, on all floors, we mark the location of plumbing fixtures;
• depicting the location of the pipes on the graph;
• we determine the dimensions of the riser and the fan pipe based on the number of devices;
• we find the exit point of the sewer from the building;
• we summarize the length of all pipes and calculate the fittings;
• now we draw a conclusion and draw up a sewerage scheme.

Mounting

So, now let's move on to the direct installation of the sewage system in our own home and find out how to correctly conduct it. The laying of the sewerage after the project has been made and calculated should start with the installation of a septic tank. To do this, you need to dig a pit somewhere three meters deep. It is necessary to calculate in advance the volume of the septic tank, taking into account the number of people living in the apartment. You can make a pit yourself, but to speed up the process, it will not be superfluous to attract special equipment. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the pit. Its thickness should be at least fifteen centimeters.

Now we create a formwork from boards or chipboard, which must be immediately reinforced with a special reinforcing belt. You can make such a belt from rods made of metal. For more confidence, you can use steel wire to tie up such rods. Now we make a couple of holes in the formwork and install pipe scraps in them. These sections will become the entry points for the system line and the overflow pipe that connects the septic tank sections.

The entire formwork should now be concreted. A vibrating tool is used to evenly distribute the solution. Note that this structure must be monolithic, which is why it is usually filled in once. You should also cite as an example, and then, if you want to install a two-chamber septic tank. First, the bottom of the first compartment is formed by pouring concrete. As a result, we get a sealed structure where the waste will settle. It is in this part that large solid fractions of waste will settle down below. But in the second part, a slightly purified liquid will accumulate.

Due to the presence of a pipe that connects both compartments, it will go into the adjacent chamber.

There is no need to make the bottom in the second compartment due to the fact that the section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. You can also use concrete rings for this, which will simply be stacked one on top of the other. At the bottom we make a thick layer of sedimentary rocks. It will filter the drains. You can use gravel, pebbles or crushed stone. We install an overflow pipe between the parts. It is located somewhere in the upper third of the wells. Note that usually summer residents use a two-section septic tank when carrying out the sewerage installation process. Although, if desired, there may be more compartments, which will provide cleaning of higher quality.

It is also easy to make an overlap for a septic tank yourself. This requires concrete and formwork. Or you can take reinforced concrete slab... In this part, it is imperative to make a special inspection hatch. It will allow you to control the hood, as well as the filling of the sections. After all this, when the installation is complete, it is required to fill the pit with sand or earth. It is necessary to clean the sump about once every two to three years.

The next step will be the laying of the highway. It will be carried out from the septic tank to the area where the sewer pipe comes out of the foundation. Note that the pipeline must go as if at a slope so that the waste water can flow down. It is important that the larger the size of the pipes used, the smaller the inclined angle will be necessary for the high-quality operation of the line. But the average is about two degrees.

Note that the sewer should be laid lower than the level of freezing of the ground. Usually we are talking about an indicator of one meter, but sometimes an indicator of 70 centimeters will be enough. Although if the region is cold, then the level should be increased to one and a half meters. Before laying pipes at the bottom of the trench, create a dense sand cushion, compacting it well. This will allow for reliable pipe fixation and prevent the pipeline from collapsing when the soil is displaced of a seasonal nature.

If we talk about the most correct scheme, then for a summer residence, the best solution would be to lay a straight line from the building to the collector. If necessary, you can make a turn and install a well for inspection in this place. You can use cast iron or plastic pipes, intended for the external type of sewerage. At the joints, everything should be done as tightly as possible. When everything is ready, the trench is covered with sand, and only then the soil is put on it.

To connect the inside to the outside, corrugated pipes are used. This makes it possible to ensure reliability during ground movements.

To lay pipes in a building, we will need:

• sharper knife;
• saw for working with plastic;
• sets of installation seals made of rubber.

First, we need to prepare the fittings.

These are the following elements:

• transition couplings that can provide a transition between pipes of different sizes;
• three-hole or four-hole connection fittings that allow pipe branching;
• transition bends required to form transitions between pipes with the same size;
• bends that form corners, they can be 45 or 90 degrees.

In general, sewer installation in your own home will not be difficult if everything is calculated correctly. First, the installation of vertical risers is carried out in the required amount. Usually they are installed from the basement to the roof, so that this entire structure can be successfully combined with the ventilation shaft. The installation site is usually selected closer to the toilet bowls, which should be located no further than a meter from the riser. If the toilets are located, say, one under the other, and the house is small, then one riser for such a building will be quite enough.

Note that the farthest plumbing fixture should not be more than five meters from the riser.

Now the supply pipes are connected to the riser. First, the toilet pipes are connected, which should be lower than all the others. After that, the lateral branches are connected. Sometimes a large number of plumbing fixtures can be connected to the supply. It should be said that the thickness of the supply pipe should be taken with the calculation of the total capacity. The last step will be to connect the devices in question using siphons. Then everything will depend on the selected category of waste disposal, the properties of the land, as well as how the groundwater behaves. Therefore, for each case, everything will be individual.

It will also not be superfluous to give an example of creating a suburban sewerage mechanism without pumping out. Summer residents are increasingly looking at such systems, and therefore it will not be superfluous to explain how to make them. Note that such systems are represented by two or three-chamber septic tanks, which will be simultaneously active. If the mechanism has two reservoirs, the sump will occupy three quarters of the structure, and for three-chambered one - one second. In the first part, the settling of heavy substances is carried out. As it fills, the liquid also enters another compartment, where the light parts are separated. In the third part, the water is completely cleaned of dirt and enters the well for drainage or filtration field. It is important here that both containers are airtight.

This type of system requires pumping out, but not as clean as when using a simple septic tank. This is done using a drainage or fecal sewage pump, the cost of which will depend on various factors. Such equipment will be used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump. It should be noted that the frequency of this procedure will be influenced by both the composition of the waste water and the size of the reservoir. The structure will need to be cleaned when the sludge height reaches the overflow level. Then it will need to be pumped out.

For six months, the tank usually accumulates somewhere 70-80 liters of sediment.

Standards for the location of sewer outlets for various plumbing fixtures

Any sewerage system can be designed in such a way that all plumbing devices that are connected to it have a minimum number of various intermediate elements, which will only complicate the mechanism of the mechanism and significantly reduce its reliability. An ideal solution can be called when the siphon coming after the plumbing fixture is immediately connected with a smooth pipe with a previously installed sewer socket. For implementation, it will not be superfluous to know exactly where the plumbing equipment will be located even before the creation of the project. And it will be even better to know which plumbing fixture will be installed in a given place.

At the same time, for different categories of plumbing equipment, there are features that make it possible to simplify the sewer connection. It and the placement of different plumbing fixtures will be seriously influenced by factors such as the level of the clean floor. Indeed, in relation to this parameter, the height of the equipment and sewer sockets and the location of the water sockets are being set. This parameter should be known in advance, which is why the installation of sewage pipelines can be carried out even before the moment the floor screed is poured and the finish-type coating is applied.

Now let's say a little more about the plumbing standards related to the system for certain devices.

• The height of the connection of the siphon to the sink outlet for the washbasin should be at the level of 53-55 centimeters from the level of the finished floor. Its center should be right in the center of the washbasin. To create a connection, you can use sewer pipes with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters.
• The center of the socket should be at the level of 22-24 centimeters when it comes to a wall-hung toilet.
• In the case of a sink, this figure is 30-45 centimeters right in the center of the sink.
• If a garbage grinder is built into the sink, then the bell center should be at a height of 30-40 centimeters, but shifted to either side.
• For an attached type toilet, this figure will be somewhere between 18-19 centimeters.
• For washing machines and dishwashers, the connection of the drain hoses will be at a height of 60-70 centimeters.
• For baths, as well as shower cabins with a pallet, it is necessary that the socket center of the sewer pipe with a diameter of 5 centimeters is at a distance of no more than 6 centimeters from the level of the clean floor. If this is not possible, then installation should be carried out on a stand. Although there are a number of models of bathtubs, the connection of which is carried out at the level of 8-10, or even 13 centimeters.

These recommendations work almost always, since manufacturers of such goods try to comply with generally accepted norms, which, by the way, are not legally spelled out anywhere. But in reality it can be anything, so the actual availability of equipment that will be installed in a predetermined place will be a big plus.

Possible problems and solutions

It should be said that quite often, even without violations during installation, problems appear in the operation of the sewage system in your own home.

The most common troubles are as follows.

• The sewer smells bad. To eliminate the appearance of unpleasant odors, toilets and sinks are connected to the mechanism using u-shaped siphons, where there is always a little water. This type of barrier prevents unpleasant odors from passing through.

• Blockage. It often happens that the system clogs up, even if the installation was carried out according to all the necessary rules. For this reason, risers on all floors should be equipped with special tees so that there is no need to disassemble the system before removing the plug.
• Freezing of the sewer. This is another common problem. The reason is that many simply lay the sewer system above the freezing point of the soil. It should be said that this problem should not be ignored due to the fact that sooner or later the pipe may simply burst and then it will need to be replaced and repaired.
• Inconsistency of various elements with each other. To avoid such a situation, the installation should begin with the installation of the outlet-assembly that connects the riser to the pipe, which is suitable for the septic tank. The outlet is a metal sleeve with pipe cuttings. Its diameter should be greater than the size of the riser pipes. Usually we are talking about a figure of 13-15 centimeters. And the sleeve should crawl out of the foundation by 12-16 centimeters.

To prevent the above and other problems from appearing, you should be guided during the installation of such a system by the following principles:

• if the pipes have different diameters, then they must be joined using special adapters;
• using oblique tees, you can connect risers and pipe bends;
• the toilet should be located as close as possible to the main riser;
• the installation of an external sewage system should be carried out exclusively in the warm season;
• as you approach the riser, the pipe size should become larger, not smaller;
• where the pipes of the kitchen and bathroom intersect, a collector should be placed.

In order for the sewer mechanism in your own home to always work efficiently and efficiently, and also function well, experts recommend observing several simple rules... The first thing to do is to flush the external and internal pipelines with plenty of hot water on a regular basis. The second tip is that in plumbing fixtures, especially in the bathroom and in the kitchen, it is required to use dust collectors to prevent hair, dirt, and various insoluble substances from entering the drain.

Another important recommendation of specialists is to pump out various sedimentary masses from the septic tank at the right time, otherwise they may cause breakdown of the entire system. Another advice from the experts is to avoid letting fat waste into the drain. Especially when it comes to animal fats, which settle on the pipe walls and can cause clogging of the pipe.

Experts recommend, when purchasing components and pipes, to check whether a rubber lining is present in the bell, as many people constantly lose it. Under no circumstances should a drain pipe be connected to the ventilation unit. According to experts, when inserting PVC pipes into a ditch, it is necessary to carefully monitor the joints as much as possible due to the fact that the connecting places are extremely fragile and unstable.

It is also recommended to install an emergency outlet for cleaning the sewage system. It is usually mounted as close as possible to the pipe entry section into the building in an accessible place. In addition, if there is a usual set of water consumption points in the building, then it is completely unnecessary to install a fan pipe, you can limit yourself to a vacuum-type valve.

In general, as you can see, the creation of a sewage system in a private house is a process that requires serious calculations and great attention from the owner of the house. Moreover, the creation of such a system involves thinking through the water supply system at home. In addition, a lot will depend on what type of sewage system will be created. A pressure sewage system will have its own characteristics, and an external or internal one will have its own. In any case, for the competent implementation of such an undertaking, it is important to think through everything to the smallest detail and consult with specialists.

An urgent question that torments everyone who wants to live in private country houses without the possibility of connecting to a central water supply and sewerage system, how to make an autonomous sewage system. Indeed, without it, it is not possible to fully use such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more. Sewerage in a private house can be equipped different ways, which we will talk about in this article. Find the right system for your individual conditions and needs, even more important than bringing it to life.

What can be a sewerage system - a private house with permanent and temporary residence

The option of arranging a drainage system in private houses is selected depending on several conditions:

• House with permanent or temporary residence.
• How many people permanently live in the house.
• What is the daily water consumption per person in the house (depends on the number of water consumers, such as a bathroom, shower, toilet, sink, washbasin, washing machine, etc.)
• What is the level of groundwater.
• What is the size of the site, how much space can be used for treatment systems.
• What is the structure and type of soil on the site.
• Climatic conditions of the area.

More detailed information about the requirements can be found in the relevant sections of SanPin and SNiP.

Conventionally, all sewage systems in a private house can be divided into just two types:

• Accumulation systems(cesspool without a bottom, sealed container for drains).
• Wastewater treatment plants(the simplest single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning, a two-chamber septic tank - overflowing wells with natural cleaning, a two-three-chamber septic tank with a filtration field, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank (aerotank) with a constant air supply).

The most ancient, proven by centuries and even millennia, method of arranging the sewage system is a cesspool. Still some 50 - 70 years ago there was no alternative to this method. But at the same time, people did not use as much water in private homes as they do today.

A cesspool is a well without a bottom. The walls of the cesspool can be made of bricks, concrete rings, concrete or other material. Soil remains at the bottom. When drains from the house get into the pit, more or less pure water seeps into the soil, clearing. Fecal masses and other solid organic waste settle at the bottom, accumulating. Over time, the well fills up with solid waste, then it needs to be cleaned.

Previously, the walls of the cesspool were not made waterproof, then when filling the hole, they simply buried it and dug out a new one in another place.

I would like to note right away that a sewage system in a private house using a cesspool is possible only if the average daily volume of wastewater is less than 1 m3. In this case, soil microorganisms that live in the soil and feed on organic matter have time to process the water that penetrates into the soil through the bottom of the pit. If the volume of effluent is more than this norm, the water does not undergo sufficient purification, penetrates into the soil and pollutes the groundwater. This is fraught with the fact that wells and other water sources may be contaminated within a radius of 50 m. The addition of microorganisms to the cesspool somewhat reduces the unpleasant odor emanating from it, and also speeds up the process of water purification. But, nevertheless, it is not worth the risk.

Conclusion... A cesspool without a bottom can be built if the house is visited 2 - 3 days a week and does not consume a lot of water. In this case, the groundwater level must be at least 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise contamination of the soil and the water source cannot be avoided. Despite the lowest cost of arrangement, the cesspool is not popular in modern country houses and cottages.

Sealed tank - storage tank

On the site near the house, an airtight container is installed into which sewage and waste from all over the house flow through pipes. This container can be off-the-shelf, store-bought, and made of plastic, metal, or other material. Or it can be mounted independently from concrete rings, the bottom is made of concrete, and the cover is made of metal. The main condition for installing a sewage system in a private house of this type is complete tightness. Pragma corrugated pipes are suitable for sewage.

When the container is full, it must be emptied. To do this, a cesspool machine is called, the call of which costs from 15 to 30 USD. The frequency of emptying the container, as well as the required volume, depends on the amount of waste. For example, if 4 people permanently live in the house, use a bath, shower, sink, toilet, washing machine, then the minimum volume storage tank should be 8 m3, it will have to be cleaned every 10 - 13 days.

Conclusion... A sealed cesspool is one of the options for how you can carry out sewerage in a private house if the groundwater level in the area is high. This will completely protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution. The disadvantage of such a sewage system is that you will often have to call a sewer truck. To do this, from the very beginning, it is necessary to correctly calculate the place of installation of the tank in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container should not be deeper than 3 m from the soil surface, otherwise the cleaning hose will not reach the bottom. The lid of the container must be insulated to protect the pipeline from freezing. For a similar sewage system in a private house, the cost depends on the material of the container. The cheapest option would be to purchase second-hand eurocubes, the most expensive is concrete filling or brick. In addition, monthly cleaning costs.

Single-chamber septic tank - the simplest option for soil cleaning

A single-chamber septic tank is not far from the cesspool, very often it is called that. It is a well, at the bottom of which crushed stone is covered with a layer of at least 30 cm, and on top of coarse sand with the same layer. Wastewater flows through pipes into a well, where water, seeping through a layer of sand, gravel, and then the soil, is purified by 50%. Adding sand and gravel improves the quality of water purification and partially faeces, but does not fundamentally solve the problem.

Conclusion... Conducting sewerage in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank is impossible with permanent residence and large volumes of drains. Only for houses with temporary residence and low water table. After a while, crushed stone and sand will need to be completely replaced, as they will silt.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

As one of the economical options for sewerage, which can be assembled independently, the arrangement of overflow settling wells and filtering wells is popular everywhere.

This sewerage system in a private house consists of two wells: one with a sealed bottom, the second without a bottom, but with powders, as in the previous method (crushed stone and sand). Waste water from the house enters the first well, where solid organic waste and feces sink to the bottom, fatty ones float to the surface, and more or less clarified water is formed between them. At a height of about 2/3 of the first well, it is connected to the second well by an overflow pipe, located slightly at an angle so that water can drain there without hindrance. Partially clarified water enters the second well, where it seeps through the powder of crushed stone, sand and soil, becomes even more purified and leaves.

The first well is a sump, and the second is a filter well. Over time, a critical mass of faeces accumulates in the first well, for the removal of which it is necessary to call a sewer truck. This will have to be done about once every 4 to 6 months. To reduce the unpleasant odor, microorganisms are added to the first well, which decompose the feces.

Overflow sewerage in a private house: photo - example

A two-chamber septic tank can be made independently from concrete rings, concrete or brick, or you can purchase a ready-made (plastic) one from the manufacturer. In the finished two-chamber septic tank, additional cleaning will take place with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion... It is possible to install a sewerage system in a private house from two overflow wells only if the groundwater level, even in a flood, is 1 m lower from the bottom of the second well. The ideal conditions are sandy or sandy loam soil on the site. After 5 years, the crushed stone and sand in the filter well will have to be replaced.

Septic tank with filtration field - biological and soil treatment

We turn to the description of more or less serious cleaning systems that allow you not to worry about environmental pollution.

This type of septic tank is one container, divided into 2 - 3 sections or several separate well containers connected by pipes. Most often, having decided to equip just this type of sewage system, a factory-made septic tank is purchased.

In the first tank, wastewater settles, as in the previous method (settling well). Through the pipe, partially clarified water enters a second container or section, where anaerobic bacteria decompose organic residues. Even more clarified water enters the filtration fields.

Filtration fields represent the area underground where wastewater is treated by soil. Thanks to the large area (about 30 m2), the water is 80% purified. The ideal case is if the soil is sandy or sandy loam, otherwise you will have to equip an artificial filtration field from rubble and sand. After passing through the filtration fields, water is collected in pipelines and discharged into drainage ditches or wells. No trees or edible vegetables should be planted above the filtration fields, only a flower bed is allowed.

Over time, the fields become silted up, and they need to be cleaned, or rather replaced by gravel and sand. You can imagine how much work will have to be done, and what your site will turn into after that.

Conclusion... Laying a sewage system in a private house, assuming the presence of a filtration field, is possible only if the groundwater level is below 2.5 - 3 m. Otherwise, this is a rather constructive solution, provided there is sufficient free space. Also, do not forget that the distance from the filtration fields to water sources and residential buildings should be more than 30 m.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural cleaning station

The deep cleaning station allows you to complete the installation of a sewage system in a private house, even if the groundwater level is very high.

The septic tank is a container divided into 3 - 4 sections. It is better to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after consulting with professionals for the required volume and equipment. Of course, the price for such a sewage system in a private house is not the lowest, it starts from $ 1200.

In the first chamber of the septic tank, water settles, in the second, the decomposition of organic matter by anaerobic microorganisms, the third chamber serves to separate water, since in the fourth one decomposes organic matter with the help of aerobic bacteria, which need a constant flow of air. To do this, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which rises 50 cm above the ground level. Aerobic bacteria are added to a filter mounted on a pipe leading from the third section to the fourth. In fact, this is the filtration field - only in miniature and concentrated. Due to the small area of ​​water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, the water is thoroughly purified up to 90 - 95%. Such water can be safely used for technical needs - watering a garden, washing a car and much more. To do this, a pipe is diverted from their fourth section, leading either to a container for storing purified water, or to a drainage ditch or well, where it is simply absorbed into the ground.

Sewerage system in a private house - scheme of work:

Conclusion... A septic tank with a biofilter is a good solution for a private home with permanent residence. Microorganisms can be added to a septic tank by simply pouring them down the toilet. There are no restrictions on the use of such a treatment plant. The indisputable advantage is that it does not require electricity supply. The only drawback is that sewerage wiring in a private house requires permanent residence, since without the constant arrival of wastewater, bacteria die. When new strains are added, they begin to be active only after two weeks.

Forced air septic tank - artificial cleaning station

An accelerated cleaning station where natural processes occur artificially. The construction of a sewage system in a private house using an aeration tank will require supplying electricity to a septic tank to connect an air pump and an air distributor.

Such a septic tank consists of three chambers or separate containers connected to each other. Water enters the first chamber through the sewer pipes, where it settles, and solid waste precipitates. Partially clarified water from the first chamber is pumped into the second.

The second chamber is actually an aeration tank, here water is mixed with activated sludge, which consists of microorganisms and plants. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic. It is for their full-fledged life that forced aeration is needed.

The water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber - a settling tank for deeper purification. Then the sludge is pumped back into the aeration tank with a special pump.

Forced air supply provides a fairly quick treatment of wastewater, which can then be used for technical needs.

Conclusion... An aeration tank is an expensive pleasure, but a necessary pleasure in some cases. The price starts at $ 3700. There are no restrictions on the installation of such a sewage system. Disadvantages - the need for electricity and permanent residence, otherwise the activated sludge bacteria will die.

Water supply and sewerage of a private house - general rules

Certain restrictions apply to the location of sewage facilities.

Septic tank should be located:

• no closer than 5 m from a residential building;
• no closer than 20 - 50 m from a water source (well, well, reservoir);
• no closer than 10 m from the garden.

House must be remote:

• 8 m from filter wells;
• 25 m from filter fields;
• 50 m from aeration treatment plants;
• 300 m from drain wells or stations.

The pipes leading to the septic tank must be insulated so that they do not freeze in winter. To do this, they are wrapped with heat-insulating material and inserted into asbestos-cement pipes. External sewerage wiring in a private house is carried out with pipes with a diameter of 100 - 110 mm, the slope should be 2 cm by 2 m, i.e. 2 °, in practice they do a little more - 5 - 7 ° (with a margin). But you shouldn't joke with this matter, since a greater slope will lead to the fact that water will quickly pass through the pipes, and feces will linger and clog them, and a smaller angle of inclination will not ensure the movement of wastewater through the pipes at all. It is advisable to lay the pipes so that there are no turns and corners. For internal wiring sewer pipes 50 mm diameter is sufficient. If the house has more than one floor, and baths, sinks, and a toilet are also installed on the upper floors, then a riser with a diameter of 200 mm is used to drain the waste water down.

If you decide that the sewerage system of a private house with your own hands is within your reach, be sure to take into account all the restrictions of SanPin and SNiP concerning the location and design of the sewerage system. In order not to spoil relations with neighbors, consider the location of their water sources and other buildings.

A private house sewerage project is extremely important; you should not try to do without it. Sewerage is not a system that tolerates approximation. Contact design bureaus or architects, let the professionals create a working project for you, taking into account all the characteristics of the soil, site, climate and operating conditions. It is better if this project will be completed together with the project of the house itself before the start of its construction. This will greatly facilitate installation.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a sewage system in a private house with a high level of groundwater, then based on all of the above, these may be the following options:

• Sealed container for waste accumulation.
• Septic tank with biofilter.
• Aeration treatment station (aeration tank).

The direct work of installing the sewer system in a private house is not so difficult. It is necessary to spread pipes around the house that will collect wastewater from different sources, connect them to a collector and run through the foundation or under it along the ground to the septic tank. Excavation work can be done independently, or you can hire an excavator. But choosing the right sewage system and drawing up a project is much more important.

Sewerage in a private house: video - example

Sewer drains in the house must be collected and sent to the central sewer or to or to.

This task is performed by the piping system inside and outside the house - internal and external sewerage.

How to properly lay sewer pipes in a private house

The sewer diagram shows two vertical pipes crossing the house from basement to roof - these are sewer risers, which collect drains from nearby sanitary appliances.

Waste from sanitary appliances is moved by gravity to sewer risers, and from there to horizontal drain pipes and further to the outlet of the external sewage system.

Features of the movement of sewage through sewer pipes

When developing a sewerage scheme, be guided by the following.

With a salvo discharge of water through the toilet, a portion of water filling all, or almost all, of the section of the sewer pipe, moving along the pipe, acts like a piston. A vacuum is created behind the water flow in the pipe, which, if there is no ventilation, sucks water from the siphons of sanitary appliances connected to the pipe downstream.

BUT pressure builds up ahead of the water flow, which pushes water out of the siphons of sanitary appliances connected upstream.

The effect of increasing the pressure in the pipe is usually less pronounced, since the sewer pipe in front usually has an open outlet at the end. Discharging in pipes with an incorrect sewerage system in the house often leads to the suction of water from the siphons of sanitary appliances and odors in the house.

Similar processes in sewer pipes can occur:

• When emptying the bath or draining water from washing machine under the pressure generated by the pump.
• In very long pipes from sanitary fittings to the riser.
• With a large difference in height between the beginning and the end of the liner pipe.

Rules for laying sewage in the house

When developing a sewerage scheme for a private house, the following rules are observed:

1. The toilet must have a separate connection to the riser. No other sanitary appliances should be connected to the pipe between the toilet bowl and the riser. Failure to comply with this rule may lead to the fact that when the toilet is flushed along the full section of the pipe, water will be sucked out of the siphons of other sanitary devices.

2. The connection to the riser on the floor of other sanitary devices should not be lower than the connection point of the toilet bowl. Otherwise, when flushing the toilet, waste water may appear in the drain hole of adjacent appliances.

Other sanitary appliances, besides the toilet, may have one common pipe to the riser.

3. When choosing the diameter of the pipes, they are guided by the rule - the diameter of the supply pipe to the riser should not be less than the diameter of the drain pipe of the sanitary device. If several devices are connected to one pipe of the supply line, then the diameter of the pipe is taken over the largest section of the branch pipe of the connected devices.

The diameter of the riser pipe should not be less than the diameter of the toilet drain pipe - 100 mm.; or 50 mm.- for a riser without a toilet.

4. The length of the supply pipe to the riser from the toilet should be no more than 1 m. The length of pipes for connections from other sanitary devices is not more than 3 m. For longer connections (up to 5 meters), it is necessary to increase the pipe diameter to 70-75 mm. Liners longer than 5 m made of pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm. It is not necessary to increase the diameter of the inlet pipes if the upper ends of the inlets are ventilated using an aeration vacuum valve or by connecting the inlet with ventilation pipe riser. The length of the piping to the toilet can be increased by ventilating the end connected to the toilet.

5. The slope of the pipes for effective self-cleaning should be within 2 - 15% (2 - 15 cm. per meter of length). The difference in height between the beginning and the end of the piping to the toilet should not exceed 1 m. For other connections - no more than 3 m. If the height difference is greater, then ventilation of the upper end of the liner is necessary.

6. Avoid the installation of corner fittings with an angle of 90 degrees on pipe bends. The angles of rotation and connection of pipes must be formed smooth, from standard parts with an angle of 135 degrees in the direction of the fluid flow.

7. Sewer pipes are laid with a bell in the direction - against the flow.

8. Be sure to perform ventilation of the risers. For this, the pipes of the risers are brought up, at least by 0.5 m. above the roof surface. The lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of a vacuum in the pipes when draining water, emptying the siphons of sanitary devices and to the appearance of a sewage smell in the house and on the site. The ventilation of the sewer riser should not be associated with natural ventilation channels of the premises.

9. For ventilation of risers and connections, in the cases indicated above, an aeration vacuum valve is installed at the upper end in the room. The aeration valve only lets air into the inside of the pipe, but does not release gases outside. The operation of the valve prevents the formation of a vacuum in the pipe, which leads to the emptying of the siphons of sanitary devices. If an aeration valve is installed, it is not required to ventilate such a riser. But ventilation of at least one riser in the house should be done without fail.

10. It is necessary to provide for noise insulation of sewer risers. To do this, it is better to place the risers in the niches of the walls, cover them with a layer of mineral wool, and sheathe the niches with plasterboard.

11. The riser pipe at the floor level is rigidly fixed. On the floor, between the ceilings, the pipes are connected and fixed so as to ensure movement during thermal deformations. On the lower floor of the house, in an accessible place, a hatch is installed in the riser - an audit.

12. Horizontal pipes connecting the risers and the outlet of the external sewage system are laid in the basement of the house along the walls, in the ground under the floor. Every 15 m. and at each turn, a revision hatch is installed in the pipes.

13. The diameter of the horizontal pipes must be no less than the diameter of the riser pipes. The angles of rotation and connection of pipes are made at an angle of no more than 60 degrees. Pipes laid in the unheated part of the house are insulated.

It's dangerous to do that! A horizontal groove in the wall for sewer pipes reduces the strength of the walls. The possibility of arranging a horizontal groove in the wall must be confirmed by the calculation of the designer.

A device for laying sewer pipes of a vertical niche in the wall, for the entire height of the floor, or a horizontal groove, leads to a weakening of the strength of the wall. You should not make niches and grooves anywhere, at your own peril and risk. Niches and grooves with a depth of more than 3 cm. for laying communications in the walls should be provided for in the project of the house.

It is allowed, without agreement with the designer, to arrange vertical grooves in the lower part of the wall to a height of no more than 1/3 of the floor height.

External sewer outlet

Sewerage outlet - the outer section of the pipe from the house, is connected to the well of the central sewerage system of the village (if any), or to a drainless storage septic tank for the removal of wastewater by a sewage machine, or to a septic tank of local treatment facilities at the site.

Outside, directly near the house, it is recommended to install a revision well on the exhaust pipe. It is recommended to install a non-return valve in the well in the pipe. The valve will prevent flooding of the underground part of the building (for example, when a septic tank is overflowing) and prevent rodents from entering the house through the sewer pipes.

The outer pipe at the exit from the inspection well is connected to the central sewerage system or to the septic tank of the autonomous sewerage system of a private house.

The outer pipe to the septic tank is laid with a slope of 2.5 - 3%, at a depth of about 0.4 m. If the length of the release is more than 5 m., then the pipe is insulated along its entire length with a shell made of polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam.

The outlet pipe should not be buried.- otherwise, this will lead to the need to install a septic tank at a great depth, which will cost more and complicate the operation of the septic tank.

Siphon in the sewer

The drain pipe of each sanitary device is connected to the supply pipe through a siphon. The siphon is a U-shaped elbow, in the lower part of which there is always a layer of drained liquid.

Some sanitary appliances, such as the toilet, have a built-in siphon. A layer of water in the siphon serves as a barrier for gases, preventing them from escaping from the sewer pipe into the room.

The siphon of a sanitary device may not be filled with water and let gases into the room in the following cases:

1. With prolonged inactivity of the sanitary device, the water in the siphon dries up. For the period of inactivity (more than two weeks), it is recommended to close the drain holes of the sanitary devices.
2. When sucking water from the siphon as a result of the vacuum created in the pipes. The risk of water suction from siphons increases with increasing length and decreasing diameter of the supply pipe, as well as in the absence of ventilation of risers and long supply pipes.

Sewage pumps with chopper for home

The drains move in the sewer pipes by gravity, due to the laying of pipes with a slope.

However, situations sometimes arise in the house when it is difficult to create the necessary slope of pipes from sanitary appliances. For example, if a sanitary room is installed in the basement of a house. Or it is necessary to move the drains a considerable distance (from the bath), but the required pipe slope cannot be created.

Fecal pump with a grinder attached to the toilet. The pump receives waste water from the washbasin.

To receive and forcibly move wastewater, special electric fecal pumps are installed. The fecal pump has a device for crushing the contents of the effluents and pumping them into the upper pipes of the sewer system.

A pump for forced movement of wastewater is installed after each sanitary device or for pumping wastewater from a group of closely located sanitary devices.

The fecal pump can lift wastewater to a height of 10 meters and move it by several tens of meters.

Air supply to sewer pipes for ventilation occurs through the open end of the pipe in a septic tank or a receiving well of the central sewerage system. The outlet of the sewer pipe, through which the waste flows from the house to the septic tank, should always be above the level of drains in it.

On the processes occurring during the movement of sewage through the sewer pipes, on the device and the correct use of the aeration valve watch this video:

Sewerage options - sewage disposal from a private house

What to do with drains in a private house if there is no central sewerage system nearby ?!

There are two drainage options- drainage of waste water from a private house:

1. Drain water into an endless storage septic tank (reservoir, cesspool) with periodic, as it is filled, pumping out and disposal of wastewater by a sewage machine to the treatment facilities of the nearest settlement.
2. Arrangement of local treatment facilities at the site and discharge of treated water into the natural environment - into the ground or onto the relief.

The first method provides the lowest construction cost sewage systems, but the annual operating costs (waste disposal) can be significant.

Sewerage option with local treatment facilities is more costly during construction, but can provide lower running costs for system maintenance.

Methods for cleaning sewage drains of a private house

In local treatment facilities, a biological method of purifying wastewater from pollution is used. Wastewater treatment is carried out by microorganisms capable of decomposing organic pollution. The main task of biological treatment is to remove organic substances from wastewater. Biochemical reactions occurring in the process of biological treatment are partially removed from the effluent and many chemical elements reducing their concentration in waste water.

Distinguish anaerobic(bacteria without oxygen) and aerobic(bacteria in the presence of oxygen) biological treatment processes.

Two types of local sewage treatment plants for a private house

For wastewater treatment of a private house, use:

1. Anaerobic septic tanks, supplemented by ground treatment facilities with filter drainage through the soil layer. In the ground filters, the wastewater treatment process takes place with the help of aerobic bacteria.
2. Active septic tanks- treatment devices, in which the process of intensive biological wastewater treatment with the help of aerobic bacteria has been established. Treated wastewater after an active septic tank, as a rule, is discharged into the ground or onto the relief.

First option, anaerobic septic tank with drainage into the ground, as a rule, cheaper in design and operation. Here, in the treatment facilities, conditions are created for the vital activity of microorganisms that are close to natural. A simple device ensures long-term and reliable operation of the sewage system.

The second option with an active septic tank- more expensive and more difficult to operate. An active septic tank is a high-tech factory-made apparatus in which artificial conditions are created for the vital activity of aerobic microorganisms, which significantly speeds up the cleaning process.

Sewerage of a private house with an active septic tank provides the highest degree of wastewater treatment. Treated wastewater from an active septic tank is directed into the ground through the drainage system. With waterproof soils on the site, the drains are discharged onto the relief, into a ditch.

An active septic tank requires an electrical connection, does not tolerate long interruptions in the supply of drains, is sensitive to power outages, needs constant monitoring of work, as well as timely repair and maintenance.

Advantages - small dimensions, quick installation, independence from soil conditions on the site. For an economy-class house, it makes sense to use an active septic tank if there is not enough space on the site for placing a ground filter drainage or with a high level of groundwater.

Treatment of sewage drains of a private house in an active septic tank Topas

The autonomous sewage system Topas is an effective and rational solution for the private sector, country and country estates, where it is impossible to connect to the central sewage system. Many consumers have already appreciated the presented system and characterize it from the best side, but what is it?

Septic tank Topas is a system of accumulation and treatment of waste water, as a result of which the purest industrial water is brought to the surface. The range of such devices is very wide - each buyer can choose the optimal product that can serve both a separate private house and a small cottage village.

The essence of the autonomous sewage system Topas

In the production of Topas septic tanks, expanded polypropylene is used; additionally, the storage chambers are equipped with stiffening ribs. This production technology allows you to achieve the following device parameters:

• High strength characteristics.
• Installation of the system in all weather conditions.
• System operation even in winter time.
• Independence from the type of soil and the level of occurrence of groundwater.

Let's note some advantages of an autonomous sewage system:

• high level of water purification;
• there is no need to equip additional aeration sites;
• long service life;
• compact size, which allows you to install a septic tank in a minimum space;
• environmental friendliness;
• simplicity of maintenance with a minimum of labor costs, financial costs and no need to call special equipment;
• secondary products of processing can be used as fertilizer, and purified water for irrigation of plantings;
• no extraneous odors, noise;
• absolute tightness of the structure.

It is worth noting and cons of the system, although it is difficult to call it cons:

• dependence on electricity;
• the high cost of the product, but over time the costs will pay off;
• for installation, you will need to call a team of specialists, although independent installation is possible.

The principle of operation of an active septic tank

The principle of operation of an autonomous sewage system can be divided into several stages:

1. Wastewater enters the receiving chamber, where it is cleaned from impurities and heavy contaminants. The filling level of the chamber is regulated; after filling, the drains enter the aeration tank.
2. The aeration process takes place, as a result of which the sewage is treated with oxygen and special bacteria.
3. Treated wastewater accumulates in a sump, from where the sludge settling at the bottom is subsequently pumped out.
4. The process water flows into the stabilizer, from where it can be disposed of in the ground or used, for example, for irrigation.

Rules for the operation of an active septic tank Topas

Any model of Topas septic tank is equipped with detailed instructions manual, but let's highlight a few rules that must be followed:

1. In the event of a power outage, try to limit the flow of wastewater into the collection chamber to avoid overflow.
2. Do not allow aggressive chemicals, alkalis, acids, etc. to enter the system. - they will destroy the beneficial microorganisms of the device.
3. Do not throw garbage into the sewer that is not intended for it - food residues, bags, plastic, and other solid household waste.
4. The sludge is cleaned twice a year.
5. Some parts of the device are subject to mandatory replacement, for example, "Air Mac" compressor membranes - every 2 years, aeration elements - every 12 years.

Installation of an active septic tank Topas

The installation of an autonomous sewage system will not bring any particular difficulties, the whole process is divided into several stages:

1. Searching for a place where a septic tank will be installed - a distance of at least 5 meters must be maintained from the foundation of the buildings, while it is worth remembering about the trenches, foundation pit, drainage point that must be dug.
2. Digging a pit, the dimensions of which vary depending on the size of the station. If the type of soil is unstable, formwork will have to be installed.
3. Laying a sand or concrete cushion to prevent the station from floating up. For small models, a sand cushion is arranged, and for stations designed to serve a large number of users, a concrete cushion.
4. Installation of the station in the pit - manual or automatic method.
5. Sewer pipe laying.
6. Sealing of sewer pipes at the points of their connection with the device. A special polypropylene cord supplied with the station is used.
7. Connecting the power cord that runs underground in the corrugated pipe.
8. Backfilling with soil is the last stage, in which water is simultaneously poured into the pit to a depth of 35 cm and covered with sand. The station must be completely submerged in the ground, otherwise the external pressure will not normalize.

Selecting a stand-alone station model

When choosing a septic tank Topas, the following factors should be considered:

• the number of future users;
• the depth of the drain pipe;
• method method of discharge of treated effluents - forced or free.

Any model of the Topas septic tank will last a long time, subject to the rules of operation and installation. It is worth contacting professionals who will not only quickly and competently provide all services for the selection, installation of an autonomous station, but also provide warranty obligations for all installation work.

How to make an anaerobic septic tank and ground treatment facilities for autonomous sewage in a private house with your own hands

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Where to direct sewage drains in a private house

Do-it-yourself sewage system in a private house requires special care and responsibility. On how accurately all the conditions are met and established rules, the degree of comfort during living and the ease of operation of structures depend (the absence of constantly arising blockages, freezing of communications, unpleasant smell and loud sounds in the room).

Sewerage systems for a country house are complex schemes for the collection, disposal and treatment of wastewater. As a rule, two types of sewage systems are organized in the house.

• Household is a collection of wastewater from a toilet, bathroom, kitchen sink and water-consuming household appliances(dishwashers and washing machines).
• designed to collect rain and melt water. It prevents flooding of cellars and basements, damage to the foundation, the appearance of excessive soil moisture and decay of the roots of cultivated plants.

Since there are no oil and oil products in the storm drains of a private house, it is allowed to combine storm and household sewers into one system, however, such a solution will require a larger volume of the receiver (local treatment plant, septic tank or cesspool) and the associated high equipment costs , therefore, the advisability of such a combination is decided by each homeowner individually.

Sewer system composition

Any sewer system can be roughly divided into three main parts:

• in-house communications, representing the union of wastewater from each point into a single collector,
• external (or external) pipelines connecting the place where the collector leaves the house (in some cases, the outlet pipes from the bath or are cut into the pipeline) and the receiving device,
• actually receiving device.

When setting up as a drainage receiver, it is the most important issue.

And for the installation of stormwater important element are, about the types of which there is information in a separate article.

You may also need for risers and 50 mm for subsequent wiring.

The receiving device can be a storage device or a purification facility.

• carries out partial soil filtration of wastewater, however, bacteria living in the soil are capable of processing inclusions only if the amount of wastewater does not exceed one cubic meter per day. As well as sealed models with a bottom that require pumping out the contents using a sewage machine, this design is more suitable for a summer residence than for a house with permanent residence.
  
• Ready septic tanks renowned manufacturers- these are carefully designed and proven structures that require cleaning much less often than simpler devices. You can save money by building.
  
• Local treatment plants (LOS)- rather expensive and complex devices requiring connection to the mains, which at the same time are able to remove from wastewater and process up to 98% of impurities, forming water and sludge suitable for irrigation, which can be used as an organic, environmentally friendly fertilizer.
  

Selecting the location of the sink for drains and its parameters

Regardless of the type of receiver (processing device or storage device), it the volume must be at least three daily norms of water consumption for all residents of the house... The existing standards determine the average value per person - 200 liters, on the basis of which the volume of the tank is calculated as 600 liters (200x3) multiplied by the number of people. When using treatment facilities with several tanks connected in series, their total volume is taken into account.

The installation location of the receiver is determined taking into account certain requirements.

• The structure is installed at the lowest point of the site, if the latter has a complex relief.
• Distances to important objects must comply with accepted standards:

- to the source of drinking water - up to 50 meters (depending on the type of receiving device, groundwater level),

- to the road - at least 5 m,

- to a reservoir or other open reservoir - 30 m,

- to a residential building - 5 m.

Drawing up a diagram

It is best to take care of the sewerage scheme at the design stage of the house. At that time premises that have a drain of water are trying to be placed in the same sector in such a way as to reduce the length of the pipes. This makes it possible to purchase fewer pipes. In addition, short distances and fewer connections simplify circuitry and reduce the likelihood of malfunctions.

In order for the sewerage scheme in a private house to be drawn up with your own hands, fully comply with the requirements, and during its development important points were not missed, you should use a ready-made house plan or draw it on a sheet of graph paper.

• The first step in drawing up a diagram is to put all the drain points on the plan. If there is more than one floor, a plan with the location of plumbing fixtures is drawn up by floor.
• After that, the location of the common riser is applied to the diagram. Since the diameter of the toilet outlet is usually 110 mm and the riser has similar parameters, the latter is most often located in the toilet. This allows you to fulfill one more condition - the length of the branch from the toilet bowl to the collector should not be more than 1000 mm. It is recommended, if possible, to locate the drain points closer to the riser, the larger their outlet.
• The line of the collector pipeline is applied to the diagram to the point of exit from the house, which, during the construction phase, is arranged in the foundation of the building and is equipped with a protective sleeve (a piece of pipe, the diameter of which is so much larger than the diameter of the collector to ensure its free entrance and the presence of gaps).
• The lines are drawn for the supply of drains from each point of discharge to the collector. Taps located nearby (for example, from a bathtub and a washbasin) can be combined into one line. An exception is the drain line from the toilet, which, under any conditions, should not have a tie-in from the rest of the drain points.

It is important to remember that the sewerage system in a private house with your own hands must be performed with a certain slope (3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, 2% for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm).

• In addition to pipelines for transporting wastewater, the installation site is marked on the diagram.
• An external sewerage scheme is similarly applied to the site plan, taking into account the location of buildings, trees (optimally, communications should pass at a distance of at least 3 meters from them). For every 10-15 meters of the highway, as well as in the places of turns and inserts of additional lines, an inspection well is arranged.

Features of the choice of pipes and fittings

The main aspect of pipe selection is the type of material. Despite the strength of cast iron products, sewerage systems for a private house, they are less and less made of such material due to their large weight, which complicates transportation and installation. Preferred are modern polymer materials.

• Flexible and durable polypropylene withstands high temperatures of drains well, therefore it is excellent for indoor sewerage. Usually these pipes are painted gray.
• Polyvinyl chloride is not as resistant to high temperature exposure, but it has high strength. Orange pipes made of this material are easily visible in the ground, they are used for external sewage, and gray ones for internal.

Installation of internal sewerage

Do-it-yourself sewerage device in a private house is recommended to start with the installation of an internal sewerage system and ventilation for it.

When the sewage system is organized with your own hands in a country house, the laying of pipes, including the riser, can be hidden and open. In the first case, communications are located in walls, niches or boxes. It is imperative to arrange inspection hatches for the possibility of inspection and repair. Pipes are attached to the walls using special devices (hangers, clamps, etc.). During installation, the above principles for selecting the parameters of the system elements are observed (pipelines 110 mm for the collector and drainage of the toilet bowl, 50 mm for sinks, showers and bathtubs, oblique tees and crosses at the joints), however, experts also recommend installing collectors of a larger diameter (100- 110 mm) at the connection points of the outlets (for example, sinks and bathtubs).

Docking of pipes with different diameters is carried out using adapters. For every drain point install water locks preventing the penetration of unpleasant odors into the room. Throughout all communications inside the house, special revision tees are installed at each turn of the pipes.

Tip: To reduce the risk of blockages, it is recommended to use not one 90 ° fitting, but two 45 ° or three 30 ° fittings when installing bends.

For those who are interested in finding the most complete answer to the question of how to carry out a sewage system in a private house , information on ventilation device.

The installation of external sewer pipes is shown in the video.