Sewing lovers know well how inconvenient it can be to try on yourself. The best way out is a mannequin. But purchased "torsos" noticeably bite in price, and they are made for a standard figure, and we are all individual. Having rummaged in the bowels of the Internet, I have compiled a selection of hand-made mannequins. Choose what you like best and craft, model and sew updates and wear them with pleasure.

Option I

Warning: Do not start making a mannequin in a stuffy or hot room, also be careful if the room is too cold. When winding, do not pull the tape, otherwise the person will become ill from suffocation and from circulatory disorders. Advice to the "teapot": before you start wrapping yourself, take a glass of liqueur, it relaxes.

What you need: Adhesive tape 80-100 meters (packing in the photo). Wooden coat hanger. A cardboard tube from a fabric store (the fabric is wound around it in the factory). T-shirt. Polyethylene or plastic bag. Safety pin. Scissors. Wire. Corrugated cardboard. Sintepon. Foam rubber. Felt pen. Plumb line. Tailor's meter. Stand for a mannequin. And most importantly ... a handy partner.
Operating procedure:
Women: Put on your usual underwear (bra). Remember to wrap a plastic bag around your neck. You can put your hair in a hat.

Wear a T-shirt of the correct length. Secure the edges of the back and front of the shirt with a safety pin between the legs. Stick the tape from about the navel, down between the legs and finish at about the lower back.
What is it for? During the manufacture of the first dummy, it turned out that the structure has the ability to "slide" upward. The action described above will lock the dummy shell during operation.

The second solution found: the winding must be started from a wider place to a narrower one. Start at the widest point of your hips and end at waist level. The tape is not very flexible and stretchable, and the body changes volumes, so ugly protruding cavities are formed. double

We will wrap the chest later. She is the main thing for a normal state of health during work. The neck, especially, should be left for completion. Fix the shape of the chest: stick the tape crosswise under the chest, leading the ends over the shoulders.

Further - free flight. Everything that was not glued is glued: back, chest, arms. Almost everything is round. You can use the American instructions or paste over on your own inspiration. The first layer of the mannequin is ready.

The second layer of the film is applied vertically. In some places, irregularities are corrected with separate pieces of tape. Finally, paste over the neck. Take a plumb line. With its help, from the seventh cervical vertebra, draw a straight line down with a felt-tip pen.

To reveal the strictly horizontal shape of the bottom of the mannequin, the same distance from the floor to the hips is measured along the circle of the figure. Dots are put with a felt-tip pen, about eight. Connect the points on the hips in a circle - the line of the hips. A wire that holds its shape well is wrapped along this line. The wire is crushed over the body, the junction of the ends is fixed at the back. The resulting ring is removed (pulled) gently down through the legs. In this form, the bottom is drawn on the cardboard.

The ring is secured to the cardboard with pins, and the outline is traced with a felt-tip pen along the inside of the wire ring. Make the bottom in duplicate. The direction of the structures of the corrugated cardboard cavities of the two parts must intersect, which is necessary for the rigidity of the dummy structure.

Remove the resulting mannequin shell by carefully cutting the bridge between the legs and then, in a zig-zag pattern, the back along the drawn midline.

Using the tube and hanger, make a mannequin holder. In my case, the shoulders turned out to be too broad, I had to saw off the excess. If you have straight shoulders, tape a piece of foam rubber to the edges of your shoulders. Achieve similar shoulder height on the skeleton of the mannequin.
* They did not make a cut on the pipe up to the shoulder of the shoulders, this would weaken the structure: our pipe turned out to be not so thick and strong. For the lintel, they made holes in the pipe, inserted the lintel and re-fixed it on the hangers.
* Make foam inserts for the chest. Place them in the grooves and secure with adhesive tape. Place the mannequin cover over the holder made of hanger and pipe.
* The zigzag cut on the back should be tied with tape starting from the neck. It is worth gluing from the outside and from the inside (the tape does not stick well on the T-shirt). Restore the mark of the seventh cervical vertebra immediately after joining the incision in the neck.

Cover the holes of the “arms” and fill the dummy tightly with padding polyester along the way. The shell should take the correct shape for your body. The tube is located approximately in the center of the mannequin, only in the hips it moves closer to the front (your posture should serve as a guide).
* Glue two parts of the corrugated cardboard bottom and put on the floor. An assistant is needed to locate the pipe hole location on it.
* Place the dummy tube approximately in the center of the bottom. Take a plumb line (string with a weight) and attach it to the back of the mannequin to the point where the center of the back and the hip line meet.
* The lower end of the plumb bob should touch the extreme point of the back of the bottom (move the pipe in the desired direction to match). Repeat the operation, moving the plumb line along the line of the thighs, until you find the exact location for the hole. Circle the base of the pipe on the bottom with a felt-tip pen and cut through it.
* Cut from the bottom of the mannequin shell to the thigh line (bottom line). Put the bottom on the pipe, and try to put it in place. Redistribute packing if necessary.
* Fixation of the bottom. Tie the shell and bottom with tape in four places. Next, glue the shell around the bottom until you completely glue it.
* An ideal stand for a mannequin is an office chair leg: it is stable and has the ability to rotate. The diameter of the leg and the pipe matched just perfectly, there was no need to seal the junction.
We set the height of the mannequin (you can make it a little higher, taking into account the minimum heels). Measure your height from the 7th cervical vertebra to the floor. Subtract the height of the chair leg from it to the mark where the base of the dummy pipe should reach (in the photo - black).
Put the resulting difference on the dummy down from the mark of the seventh cervical vertebra (cut off the excess part of the tube). Put the pipe on the chair leg. Your double is ready!
P.S. Shortly after making the dummy, Lucy cut off her hands. They make fitting difficult.
In the preparation of the material helped:
Lyudmila Buravtsova (Lucy) and her handy assistant-husband - Vladimir. They made a mannequin, wrote recommendations, took a photo.

Option II.(photos enlarge when clicked)

Put on a trash bag. Roll the tape right under your bust line. Then start wrapping the tape down on your stomach.

Wrap the tape tightly diagonally across the chest. Roll up the tape until the trash bag is hidden. Save the top for later.

Then make a skirt from another garbage bag. Make a center incision and then attach a piece of tape between the legs, from the lower abdomen down and then up the back to the thighs. Then run the tape around your hips. Wind up the tape until the entire bag is covered. Apply tape diagonally to cover the buttocks and the front of the lower abdomen. You should be completely covered with duct tape from your bust to the bottom. Now you need to cover your back.

Start applying tape from top to bottom along the back. Do this until your shoulders close. Then we apply the tape all over the back to the shoulders.

Take a piece of trash bag and tape around your neck. Do this as hard as possible. Do not strangle yourself, be sure to breathe :)) We wrapped an adhesive tape around the neck, checked if there were any holes, and sealed them.
Then add a piece of the trash bag to the arms. We wind a little scotch tape around the arm, do not need to go far down, maybe three turns to the armpits. Then close the remaining holes in the shoulder area.
Are you already dripping with sweat ?! Perfectly! At the same time, let's tweak the shape a little.

Cut the tape along the back until you can freely remove the entire structure. We glue back the recently made cut.

Make the bottom of the legs out of cardboard, attach it to the hole and glue it well with tape. Do this on both legs.

Let's fill the bottom of the future dummy with polyurethane foam, it is on the construction market. I hung it on a hanger to keep the mannequin in shape. Be sure to fill the mannequin in small layers, drying each one. Take my word for it, you should not foame a large volume at once.

When finished to the bottom of the armhole, make cardboard hand circles and tape them into the holes with tape. When the foam hardens, glue the entire mannequin with another layer of tape. Place a cardboard circle around your neck and cover it with tape.

The mannequin is exactly my size. This is why I like to use garbage bags more than T-shirts.
Now I can make clothes that flatter me! To place the mannequin, I added two cardboard tubes to the bottom of my mold. This is only a temporary phenomenon.
If you want to know, I used 2 rolls of duct tape and polyurethane foam. The total cost of the project was approximately $ 40.00. It's better than paying for a mannequin from $ 150.00- $ 300.00, considering that it comes standard size and do not fit your body type perfectly!

That's all for today, but the topic is not closed. There will be several more master classes on the manufacture of mannequins and adaptations for convenience when sewing and WTO (ironing) products for yourself and your family.

Any novice seamstress sooner or later feels a great need for a tailor's mannequin. With its help, the process of cutting out products is greatly simplified. However, such a device is quite expensive, so not every wishing master can purchase it. There is a way out of this situation - to try to make mannequins with your own hands. What is necessary for this and how to cope with the task at hand, we will tell in our article.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, decide on the size of the mannequin. If most of the manufactured items belong to the children's category, then it is better to focus on small options... To create such a texture of the human body, the participation of a child of the appropriate age will be necessary.

It is easier to make standard mannequins with your own hands, but this also requires the participation of one assistant. The height of the structure depends on the height of the seamstress. On sale, there are mainly devices of average sizes, with a height of 146 to 179 centimeters.

Plaster mannequin: materials for making

Before thinking about how to make a dummy with your own hands, you need to decide for what purposes a model of a person is being created. If it is needed for sewing clothes for an individual client, then such a device should repeat all the subtleties and features of his figure. In such cases, it is better to give preference to plaster products.

If the design should only figuratively repeat the bends of the human body, you can make it from ordinary adhesive tape and food foil. To imagine what both the one and the other process looks like, we will consider both methods of making mannequins with our own hands.

Making a model of a specific person: the necessary materials

It will take a lot of effort and patience to create an accurate model of a person's figure, but the result will justify all these sacrifices. During the work, the following materials and devices will be used:

• a roll of cling film;
• Scotch;
• gypsum mixture;
• polyurethane foam(about 2 cylinders);
• sandpaper;
• paraffin;
• putty;
• medical bandages;
• hanger-hanger;
• synthetic winterizer or batting.

For drawing on the layout of the lines of the chest, waist and hips, it will come in handy laser level... But if such a device is not available, you can make a tailor's mannequin without it.

How to create a mannequin base

If all necessary materials purchased and you have enough free time, then you can get to work. To begin with, the assistant (whose layout will be created) should change into clothes that he will not mind getting dirty.

1. The human body must be carefully covered with cling film. In this case, it is very important not to squeeze the figure and not to tighten the polyethylene too much. If the film is not at hand, you can wrap the figure in large bags, cut lengthwise.
2. Fasten the edges of the film to the figure with tape.
3. Further, the entire body, covered with roll material, must be pasted over with tape. This must be done as carefully as possible so that the material does not squeeze all the natural bulges of the figure. It is more convenient to use small tapes of adhesive tape, no more than 20 cm long. They need to be glued onto the body with a slight overlap. It is better to paste over small and textured bulges in pieces of 5 cm.

On this preparatory stage the creation of the tailor's mannequin is over. Here you can rest a little and start mixing the plaster mixture. Next, the following actions are performed:

1. Medical or cut gauze should be moistened in the prepared solution and begin to apply stripes to the figure. First of all, the ribbons are applied starting from the back, over the shoulder and under the chest.
2. In the area of ​​the shoulder blades, place the material crosswise. This is necessary to prevent wet bandages from slipping on a slippery surface.
3. Gradually, the entire surface of the body, up to the thighs, is covered with plaster pads. For the mannequin mold to be strong enough, at least three layers of bandage must be applied. It will be very difficult to physically withstand a larger number.

On this, making a mold for creating mannequins with your own hands can be considered complete.

It remains only to wait until the gypsum solution hardens. At this time, it is worth doing as few movements as possible so that the frame does not deform.

How to make a mannequin at home: filling a form

After the solution has hardened enough, the resulting form must be removed from the person. Before that, you need to draw control stripes on the surface, which will serve as a guide when folding the two parts.

Starting from the axillary region, the plaster cast is cut from both sides. This is done with a sharp knife so as not to injure the person inside.

At this stage, it is no longer difficult to guess how to make a dummy with your own hands, because the form for filling with foam is already ready. Next, you need to do the following:

1. To smooth out all the irregularities of the plaster cast, its inner surface must be coated with putty.
2. After the mixture has solidified, a layer of paraffin is applied on top. A pair of ordinary candles is suitable for these purposes.
3. Now the empty space of the first and second halves is filled with polyurethane foam. It is better to do this in layers. So the composition will harden much faster.
4. In one of the forms you need to put a hanger-coat hanger. It will give the layout extra strength.
5. At the end, the last layer of foam is applied to one of the halves, after which both parts are tightly pressed against each other. For reliability, it is better to seal them tightly with tape and leave until the foam dries completely.

After the composition has hardened, the adhesive tape is cut off, and the gypsum molds can be easily removed from the finished mold.

Finishing works

Here we figured out how to make a human mannequin that will display all the features of his figure as accurately as possible. However, the hardened foam form will be difficult to use as a working material, so now you need to start final processing.

If paraffin remains on the walls of the model, it must be removed. This is best done with a sharp knife.

Since it is difficult to create a smooth surface using polyurethane foam, the figure must be sanded with fine-grained emery paper. At the same time, you cannot press hard. It is enough just to remove the large bumps.

Now you need to make a sewing dummy. No matter how beautiful the white and sleek layout looks, it is quite inconvenient to work with, since it is impossible to stick needles into it. To eliminate this disadvantage, you need to use a thin synthetic winterizer or batting. They need to paste over the entire surface of the figure.

The mannequin is now ready for use. The cost of materials for its production is about 1000 rubles, which is 5 times less than the price of the finished layout.

Materials for making a papier-mâché mannequin

If you are not ready to spend a lot of time using the previous method, then you can make simpler mannequins with your own hands. Of course, in this case, it will not be possible to convey the smallest bends of the human figure, but it is quite possible to work with this option.

To work you will need:

• 4 rolls of scotch tape;
• unnecessary T-shirt;
• scissors;
• synthetic winterizer or foam rubber.

In the process of work, you will also need an assistant, since it will be very difficult to do the work yourself.

Layout making process

The beginning of creating a layout in this variant is similar to the previous method. You should also wrap cling film over the old T-shirt and fix it with tape. Layer by layer, carefully cover the entire surface of the film and use up a full 4 rolls of duct tape. In the chest area, use short pieces of tape.

When the scotch cocoon is fully formed, you need to mark the middle of the back. It is noted along the cervical vertebrae. For this purpose, it is more convenient to use a plumb line. You also need to immediately draw transverse lines that will indicate how to properly glue the base for the mannequin.

Along the drawn line, you need to cut the resulting shape. The bottom edge of the layout is leveled with scissors. The resulting form should stand on the table on its own. The layout is ready. Now you can start filling and finishing it.

Final stages

Before making a papier-mâché mannequin, we considered the option with foam filling. In this case, it is not worth using it, since the adhesive tape shell is inferior in strength to gypsum. This is a lightweight option, and for its filling it is better to use foam rubber or synthetic winterizer filler.

Let's consider further actions:

1. The cut on the back must be glued. After that, the layout needs to be covered with several layers of adhesive tape again.
2. The bottom of the figure should be set on thick cardboard and outlined. This will create the bottom of the mannequin, which can be glued on after it has been filled.
3. The selected filler must be carefully tamped inside the shell. The holes in the arms, neck and thighs can now be sealed.

To smooth the surface of the figure, the papier-mâché technique is used. To do this, the roll paper must be moistened with water, and when it gets wet, replace the water with PVA glue. In this state, the paper should be positioned on the mannequin. When all the polyethylene is covered, the product is left to dry for 48 hours.

Making a stand for a mannequin

When the human model is ready, it's time to think about how to make a mannequin stand. First, you need to make a cross from wooden blocks. To do this, cut a hole in each bar half the thickness of the second bar. This will hold the 2 elements together exactly.

Further, a horizontal stick is attached to them, on which the height of the layout will depend. It can be screwed to the cruciform base with self-tapping screws. Metal or wooden corners can also be used here. The type of fastener is not very important, the main thing is that the stand is stable enough.

The layout itself is put on the free edge of the stick. In the case of polyurethane foam, you do not need to make special holes, and you need to foresee one in the cardboard.

Conclusion

We looked at two ways to make mannequins. One is simpler, the other is laborious, but allows you to create a durable layout. In any case, both options can significantly reduce the cost of purchasing a model of a human body.

Undeniable dignity self-made shape for cutting clothes is that you can repeat the curves of the figure of any person with maximum accuracy. The dimensions of the wooden mannequin (which can be purchased in the store) are standard, which makes it necessary to sew clothes with a lot of fittings. For this reason, it is sometimes more advisable to make a mannequin yourself.

Every seamstress, experienced or, sooner or later, realizes the need for a mannequin - for endless fitting and fitting of their creations. The easiest way is to find and buy a ready-made human body, for example, after a store closes. But this is not always possible, and the prices even for used mannequins bite, not to mention new ones. How to be? You can, of course, use family members for the above purposes, or you can make a dummy with your own hands using a simple master class. The plus of this option, in addition to unconditional economy, is that you can easily make a personal mannequin according to your figure, the figures of loved ones and even regular customers - the only question is patience and a place for storing finished products. Having learned about the simplicity of this procedure, many needlewomen will immediately ask themselves a lot of questions about how to sew a dummy with their own hands. Here are some ideas.

How to make a dummy from scotch tape with your own hands?

We need:

• unnecessary T-shirt;
• cling film;
• a lot of metallized tape from a construction supermarket, at least 100 m;
• 2 cylinders with construction foam;
• scissors;
• assistant - you won't be able to cope alone.

Progress:

Of course, this method requires effort and a lot of time, but the result is worth it.

How to make a mannequin for sewing baby clothes?

Such a mannequin is extremely easy to manufacture and is suitable, for example, as a model for sewing outerwear. Due to the design features, in order to make a mannequin close to the real size of the child, you can take clothes that are several values ​​smaller than the current size.

The mannequin manufacturing process can be divided into several stages.
1. Film for food or construction... We put on the linen on which we will put on future sewing masterpieces in the future. I remind you that the shape and size of the bra different firms differ significantly from each other. And this undoubtedly affects the fit of the product. We wrap it over the linen (of course with the help of an assistant) with cling film or construction film. Construction is more dense, but food is smaller in width and easier to handle. We wrap the film around the body in several layers, observing some freedom of fitting (in the future, the adhesive tape will greatly tighten the body). We wrap the body from mid-thigh to chin, arms to elbow, Special attention giving to the armpits (the adhered tape from this delicate place peels off very painfully).
2. Reinforced and construction adhesive tape. After the protective film is applied to the body, we begin to wrap the body with two layers of reinforced (gray) tape and one layer of brown construction tape on top. This amount is enough to keep your cocoon in shape.

Start this process in the morning, do not put it off until the evening (at one time you need to wind up an adhesive tape, make a cocoon and plaster it, so that it does not lose its original shape). We glue the layers of adhesive tape without tightening the body: from the waist down, then up to the chest area, completely back and arms to the middle of the forearm. We glue the chest area in the penultimate place (it will be hard to breathe), and the neck last. Remove your hair before covering the neck.

We cut the adhesive tape into small pieces and carefully shape all the curves of your body. The better you cocoon, the more believable your mannequin will be. We cut and positioned the area between the breasts and the arch of the back at the waist several times. the scotch tape was stretched and the existing bend did not work out right away. Cut the scotch tape for the chest area into very small pieces and glue them in the form of chamomile petals, then the edges towards the center. Don't overtighten your chest. In a soft bra, this happens very easily, which further leads to deformation of the shape of the breast in the cocoon (especially in girls with a size of 4 and above). Girls with large breasts do not use tape crosswise - this creates irregular shape... During winding, one of my breasts flattened - "the first pancake is lumpy", but the second turned out to be believable. In the future, I used papier-mâché to align the asymmetrical breasts along it.
A warning: the process of forming a cocoon is very laborious and difficult for all participants in the process. Be patient. The winding process took me 4 hours. For some, it takes 1.5 to 3 hours. Probably, it depends on the characteristics of the figure (the more bends, the longer this stage), the quality of the winding and the quickness of the assistant. During this time, you will not be able to sit down, let alone other natural needs. Prepare several pairs of scissors (in the process, they stick to the tape and stop cutting), rags (to clean the scissor blades), a brush or a long stick to scratch (at this time, something will be combed), a chair or stool (you can stand on it) knees, it gets a little lighter), water (with a straw), and validol. On the forums, some write that they cannot stand this stage and bring themselves to their senses with the help of ammonia. I didn’t come to that, but Validol was absorbed more than once.
After the adhesive tape is glued, it is necessary to "beat off the level". We measure the same distance from the floor to the bottom line of the cocoon and draw a line (as in sewing, when we align the bottom line of the product). Then, using a plumb line from the seventh cervical vertebra, measure and draw a line in the middle of the back. We outline several transverse lines (along them we will combine and glue the shape). We cut along the line of the middle of the back (there is no need to cut with a zigzag), and glue the cut place with several layers of tape. Cut off the bottom of the mannequin along the marked line (after that, it should stand exactly on the table). We put thick cardboard under the bottom of the mannequin and draw the same line. This will be a guide for the volume and shape of your thighs and the bottom of the mannequin. In this form, you will later expose the center of the mannequin to set up the mannequin stand. Do not remove the inner cling film.





3. Plaster. After the film cocoon is ready, we begin the plastering process. For this we use plaster bandages. This is a terrible deficit in Moscow. After going around 11 pharmacies, I found only 2 bandages !!! Therefore, on the first day, I cast from the bottom up with plaster bandages, and above with ordinary bandages with alabaster. I didn't like working with alabaster. It is not convenient, for a long time, and even then, when removing the plaster, the dust from it is terrible. The next day I was much more fortunate, I bought another 9 bandages at the Do Not Pain pharmacy. This is enough to cast the entire cocoon in two, and in the chest and back - three layers. The plastering process must be carried out from the bottom up, and inside the mannequin, insert spacers in the chest, arms and thighs (to maintain the original shape). To prevent the cocoon of scotch tape from falling, I put a hanger inside and fixed it on wire ties, which I tied to the cornice and a hook on the wall. She glued the bottom of the cocoon with tape to the table so that it did not move and did not change its shape. I unrolled it in such a way that it was convenient to come up with plaster on each side. I put wet gauze on the cocoon in one layer and fixed it with threads. Gypsum dries best at a temperature of +28 degrees. The usual temperature in the apartment + 24 degrees is not enough. I turned on the heater in the kitchen at night and closed the door. By morning it was +31. But the gypsum dried up in a day. To be sure, I waited two more days.







4. Polyurethane foam. After the gypsum has dried, you can begin the main stage in creating a dummy - pouring foam from the inside. I did this stage myself and alone. From my own experience, I was convinced that it is better to entrust foaming to a man with hands and experience in this field.
After reading the recommendations on the forums, I bought a cylinder of Titan winter polyurethane foam, a gun, acetone, gloves and a mask for it. I already had glasses. You need to fill the dummy in several stages, because the foam should dry. The first portion of foam was poured into the chest and abdomen (after sprinkling it inside with water from a spray bottle). In volume, it is approximately 1/3 of the width of the mannequin, remembering that the foam expands over the course of an hour and increases in size. In my case, the pistol turned out to be defective, and the foam came out not from the nozzle of the pistol, but from the connection between the pistol and the cylinder. Hair stood on end, but because There was no other way out, I began to collect it and lay it with my hands in the places I needed (especially since it is impossible to get into a dummy with a pistol and a cylinder wound on it, unless you are size 60). The foam was quite dense and easy to fit. For some reason, the foam from the next two cylinders of the same company did not want to be distributed and fell off as soon as I touched it with my hand. In the foam (in order to reduce its consumption), I added pieces of foam (it can be cut well with a kitchen knife).
Then I inserted, centered and fixed a broomstick wrapped in cellophane inside (I didn't have a mannequin stand at that time). Left to dry for a day.
The next day the foam dried up. As an experienced young lady, I bought two more cans of foam, but one that can be operated without a gun (the tube is screwed to it), they are smaller in volume, but I had enough foam for the whole dummy. One can filled completely the top of the mannequin (through the neck and arms), the second - the bottom of the mannequin (adding pieces of foam). Foam climbed from all sides for another three hours, even pushing out the foam. These places subsequently formed small voids, and not dried out places. At the last moment, you need to insert and fix what your mannequin will stand on, or at least leave a hole for the stand. I inserted a cellophane-wrapped broomstick. It didn't work out very well for me. I fixed it correctly, but, apparently, not enough, and the stick was warped. When this was discovered, it was already late, everything dried up and had to make a new hole.
Before working with foam, put on what you do not mind wearing gloves on your hands, twist the film up to your shoulder, and glasses on your nose. The mask was needed when I wiped the kitchen and myself from the foam with acetone. The foam on the mannequin dried for another three days. After hardening, cut off the foam exactly along the edge of the mannequin bottom.

5. Remove the plaster. The most exciting and solemn moment in the whole process. With a construction knife, I first cut the plaster of Paris along the side and shoulder lines into two halves. Then a cocoon of scotch tape. She took off the tape. And here she is your Galatea. My Young Lady (this is the name of my dummy) - turned out to be extremely fine. In several places, I filled the non-dried holes (the area of ​​the back, buttocks and shoulders) with polystyrene, and closed them on top with pieces of dried foam. The volumes turned out to be a few centimeters less than mine, which I later corrected with papier-mâché. Trimmed the mannequin at the shoulder about 19 cm from the junction of the shoulder and neck. On a foam dummy, irregularities are trimmed with a construction knife, and the missing volumes are built up in several layers using papier-mâché.








6. Papier-mâché. You can bring the mannequin's appearance to perfection with the help of papier-mâché. To do this, buy the cheapest gray toilet paper. Cut it off the roll and fill it hot water... After 10 minutes, drain the water and squeeze and knead the paper a little. Add PVA glue to the desired consistency. All is ready. We begin to glue papier-mâché onto the dummy. The paper does not dry very quickly. Even an increase in ambient temperature did not affect the drying speed in any way. A thin layer dries for 2 days, and a thicker one can take 4. For a week I completely corrected the mannequin and prepared it for the final stage.






7. Mannequin stand. I ordered the rack in the store. I really wanted a wooden tripod and certainly the color of natural wood. I was waiting for her 2.5 weeks. During this time, all the work on the formation of the dummy was completed, and it was necessary to correct the shortcomings. The hole I provided for the dummy stand turned out to be much smaller in diameter than the dummy stand itself (the store gave the wrong information). I had to warm up the metal part of the rack and make a new hole. My mannequin turned out to be much longer than the standard store mannequin (it ends at the middle of the thigh). In order to lower the mannequin and bring it closer to my height, I fixed inside not only a metal stick, but also a part of a wooden stand. At this point, the wooden part of the rack cracked. I had to go to the store to buy a new all-metal rack. The rack was fixed in the already finished hole. Secured with a metal rack ring.


8. Batting cover. The papier-mâché form is quite hard, and in places rough. In order to add a soft layer to the mannequin, in which the pins can be fixed, I bought a thin batting. The version with padding polyester did not suit me very much, tk. on the forum there were not very flattering reviews about him. I sewed a cover out of batting. He himself fit perfectly on the mannequin. It is better to sew parts of the batting end-to-end so that the seams are not visible. On top of the mannequin's neck, I made a pincushion by stitching 5 layers of batting together.

9. Cover of their supplex. The top layer is sewn from supplex. We sew in the same way as a fitted dress. We lay darts where they ask for. We collect their covers on an elastic band.

10. Cost of materials.
- polyurethane foam Titan - 3 cylinders - 200 + 200 + 250 = 650 rubles.
- rubber gloves - 2 pairs - 40 + 40 = 80 rubles.
- reinforced scotch tape - 2 rolls - 150 +150 = 300 rubles.
- brown scotch tape - 2 rolls - 40 + 40 = 80 p.
- acetone - 1 pc. - 50 p.
- PVA glue - 3 cans - 140 + 140 + 140 = 420 p.
- construction knife OLFA - 1 pc. - 250 p.
- blades for a construction knife - 1 pc. - 200 rubles.
- marker - 1 pc. - 15 p.
- gauze - 1 pc. - 55 p.
- plaster bandages - (6 pieces - 32 rubles each, 1 piece - 55 rubles each, 4 pieces - 22 rubles each) = 337 rubles.
- toilet paper - 10 rolls - 5 p. = 50 p.
- batting - 1, 20 = 60 p.
- supplex - 1, 10 = 550 p.

Total: 3097 p. + mannequin stand - 1400 r.
11. Elapsed time: 1 week (not including drying time for all layers of the mannequin).
12. Conclusion: I liked the work on the mannequin. I was pleased with the result. The mannequin is fully consistent with my parameters and individual characteristics... I even managed to use it for its intended purpose - I sewed a jacket with a hood for yoga. The fact that before I would have corrected for two hours, or I would have to call my friend - to take the back and sides. I did it on a mannequin in 5 minutes. I've never had such a perfect back.

In various fields of activity, one has to deal with artificial details that imitate body parts or the full figure of a person. In the sewing business, clothing trade, hairdressing, such "visual aids" are used both as demonstration materials and as tools or devices for the convenience of work. If you don't need a large number of models or you need to create a thing of specific proportions, you can make a dummy with your own hands.

A bit of history

Mannequin - ancient invention person. Even in Egyptian tombs, the first such items were discovered, repeating the figure of the ruler, complemented by a set of clothes. Similar imitations were used to practice wrestling techniques. The wooden dummy was widely used for forging the armor of warriors. It became popular later as a display item for clothing in the trade. Now the use of mannequins is very wide, and sometimes these "artificial people" not only have complete external similarity, but are also equipped with numerous sensors. They help in studying the consequences of possible injuries, designing safety systems, etc.

Areas of use of mannequins and their types

As already indicated, these objects are used in many production and service areas of work. The most widely used and known to all are mannequins for clothing (its demonstration and sewing). In any store that sells dresses, blouses, coats, several models are necessarily presented on a plastic model. So the thing looks more spectacular and natural, however, such products, as a rule, have average proportions with long legs, and the suit will sit somewhat differently on a real person.

A specific, but very popular among specialists, is a dummy for boxing or other types of wrestling, which serves to practice punches with both hands and feet. These objects can be either suspended in the form of a pear containing a dense heavy filler, or they can be a humanoid structure fixed to a rigid base using a spring mechanism.

Hairdressers use a mannequin head for their hairstyles when training and improving their skills. A realistic volumetric tool allows you to work out all operations - from styling and drying to creating complex compositions using special tools.

What are the mannequins for clothes

Classify these objects in terms of their appearance and who they represent. On the first basis, the grouping is as follows:

• Natural.
• Stylized.
• Abstract.

The first assumes full detailing of the body and face, the use of hair, eyelashes. The latter are performed in a simplified manner, without elaborating on small elements. Wigs are usually replaced with plastic hair, made in one piece. Abstract in general are made even from geometric figures with the general preservation of human proportions. Each option can be a female, male or child mannequin. Specialized figures of pregnant women and individual body elements (heads for hats, legs for showing trousers) are also produced.

Any of the mannequins, especially the naturalistic one, can be used not only in retail outlets, but also at home as a hanger or an element of interior decor. Such figures, very similar to living people, are used in cafes or restaurants as decoration.

Types of tailor's mannequins

The main task of these assistants is to ensure the convenience of work. They are used for fitting, fitting, as well as ironing and steaming of finished products. For custom tailoring and large productions may require different kinds figures, both women and men, children, teenagers.

The sliding dummy is very convenient. It allows you to adjust the dimensions individual elements within certain limits (bust, height from shoulder to waist, etc.). This option is good for small production. Enterprises often use fixed structures designed for sewing specific size... There are also special trouser and skirt mannequins.

Structures are hard and soft. The latter are more convenient, as they allow you to freely work with pins, and the upper part of the neck is used as a needle bar. Differences also exist in the material of the support. It can be metal, wood, stationary or mobile. In short, there is a wide choice. Everyone should choose the appropriate option based on their own requirements.

The convenience of tailor-made mannequins

If you sew to order or for a family, then you know that in the process of work, fitting is constantly required, and it is better to perform some stages directly on the person. However, this is not always possible. One cannot be done on oneself, the other takes too much time, and, for example, children generally cannot stay in one place for a long time.

If you specialize in sewing clothes for women, then it is worth buying a mannequin. Sliding option fit best way, if your clients are slightly different in proportions. However, if there is someone with specific non-standard shapes, it is worth either modifying the existing design or making a unique mannequin. The tailor's version should not only follow the contours of the model's body, but also be comfortable to work with. In the process of trying on the product, you have to use pins, fix the parts with a basting thread, so the design must be both strong and soft at the same time.

If you work with a limited number of faces, but everyone has completely different proportions, it is worth considering creating custom mannequins with your own hands. This is true for a dressmaker who sews for herself, family or close friends. Buying professional sewing mannequins will be quite expensive, and making it yourself is not too difficult and less costly.

Execution technologies

You can make a female, male or child mannequin different ways... The options are similar in many ways, but differing materials and fixtures are used. It also takes a different time to complete. The point of work for all methods is the same - to get an exact copy of the body of the model. Two people will have to do the work. You can't do it alone. Two options will be discussed in detail below. In the first case, the sewing dummy will be made of adhesive tape and a T-shirt using an arbitrary filler, in the second version, plaster bandages and polyurethane foam are used.

To complete the fastening, you will need: a hanger (coat hanger), a hook, a cardboard tube or a shovel handle, a rigid base, for example, a Christmas tree cross or the lower part of an office chair, then the dummy will also be convenient to move. When choosing a manufacturing method, focus on the materials available or the convenience of work from your point of view.

Precautionary measures

Before you start making a dummy with your own hands, you should seriously prepare yourself or your model for this process. The work can take several hours, while most of the time will have to be spent in a tight-fitting "shell" and in a relatively motionless position, that is, you will not be able to sit or lie down. In addition, the body will be wrapped with adhesive tape or cling film, which means that air access to the skin will be limited, which makes it difficult to breathe deeply, so it is worth working in a cool, ventilated room, and wrapping is done from the bottom up so that the lungs, heart and the neck was under the "shell" for less time.

If you are going to make a mannequin for a girl or a guy, you can choose any method of making. For children or older people, the option with a T-shirt is better, since the plaster bandages dry (harden) for a long time, and their weight is very noticeable on the body, especially if you put them in several layers.

Materials and tools

To make a sewing dummy, you need the following:

• Large cling film or plastic bags.
• T-shirt or plaster bandages from the pharmacy.
• Scotch tape (clerical or construction tape).
• Plumb line or level for marking.
• Scissors or knife.
• Wire to fit the perimeter of the mannequin's bottom.
• Marker.
• Thick cardboard (corrugated) for making the bottom.
• Paraffin (candle) in the version of working with plaster bandages.
• Hangers or hanger hook.
• A tube from a roll of fabric (you can ask at a store) or a handle from a shovel.
• A cross, like for a Christmas tree, or the bottom of an office chair.
• Filler (holofiber or polyurethane foam).
• Foam gun and flushing agent.
• Sandpaper and putty to smooth the foam dummy surface.
• PVA paper and glue.
• Sintepon or batting for covering the workpiece and possible shape correction.
• Stretch knitted garments for finishing.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated. Most of the house already has everything, if the woman sews, and the man was dealing with repairs in the apartment. The option with a T-shirt and padding is easier to accomplish. It will take less materials and time, but a mannequin made of foam in a plaster mold will be stronger and better quality. Any of the methods will be cheaper than buying a ready-made mannequin, and most importantly, it will be an ideal copy of a specific person.

DIY clothing mannequin made of adhesive tape

So let's start with more simple option made using a regular cotton T-shirt. Use the old unnecessary, as the fabric will remain "walled up", acting as a base.

As for the length, it can be up to the hips, but it is better to take a longer one so that it can be connected with a pin between the legs. This will fix the fabric to the body. It will also prevent it from moving upward during operation.

To make mannequins for clothes in the first way, you need to perform the following steps:

Now you can attach the structure to the cross and start using it.

Manufacturing technology from polyurethane foam

If you decide to make a dummy with your own hands in the second way, the stages of work are very similar, so the recommendations here will be more concise. So, you need to perform as follows:

You learned how to make a mannequin in two ways. Choose the option you like. Both methods are simple. You can supplement any of them and improve the technology at your discretion.

Wrestling partner

The simplest boxing dummy can be easily built in your country house. To do this, it is enough to rigidly fix the base with a spring from a car shock absorber in the ground. Install a stick (part of a shovel handle) into it, and build from a bag or something similar, filled, for example, with sawdust, a semblance of a human torso. This option will not only be easy to manufacture, but also convenient to use.

Children's Mannequin for Hairstyles: Play and Learn

Every little princess loves to play with dolls and braid their braids. Now there are a lot of opportunities for children's creativity: you can buy books or download instructions for performing various hairstyles. This activity is useful not only from an aesthetic point of view. It helps to develop fine motor skills, which has a beneficial effect on the development of the child. So that in the process of such a game mom's hair or expensive dolls do not suffer, you can make a special mannequin for hairstyles. In this case, the girl will be able to weave her beauties as many times as she wants, and if the manual is spoiled, it is easy to do it again. Even the process of making a mannequin is easy to turn into a fun, entertaining process.

How to make a head mockup for girls doing braids

The easiest option is to make a flat profile with yarn hair. To do this, you need the following:

• Thick cardboard or plastic.
• Pencil.
• Clerical knife or scissors.
• Awl.
• Threads.

The head-mannequin for hairstyles is performed as follows:

1. Draw the profile of the head on the cardboard base. If you are afraid to make a mistake with the proportions and get a completely unrealistic image, print the finished picture in the scale you need and outline the outline of the cut profile on your base.
2. Cut out the resulting part.
3. Along the line of the head, where the hair will be, make holes with an awl at a short distance from the edge. You can perform them in one row or several. Choose at your own discretion.
4. Take yarn and cut it into threads of the same length that suits you. Keep in mind that the threads will fold in half, so you will have to harvest double-sized pieces. To do this step quickly, take a rectangular piece of cardboard and wrap yarn around it, then cut along one side. The blanks have been completed.
5. Take a "bundle" of threads and pass through the first hole. To secure them, make a knot or thread it folded in half at once, and then thread one end through the loop obtained from the other edge.
6. Fill all holes using the same method.
7. If you want, you can decorate the resulting head with eyes, lips, make up models.

All is ready. The girl will calmly do braids. For greater realism, the blank is easy to make from cardboard, painted in color to match the skin tone. Or even make papier-mâché embossed details.

So, you have learned how to easily and quickly make a mannequin with your own hands. Now you can easily do a fitting in the absence of a model, take a girl by weaving braids or make a partner for a boy to fight.