Menu

Where do the waves come from. There are several factors affecting the size of the wave in the specific site of the surf

Decorative Cultures for Garden

We have been accustomed to many phenomena taking place on our planet, without thinking about the nature of their occurrence and mechanics of action. This is a climate change, and the change of time of the year, and the change of time, and the formation of waves on the sea and in the oceans.

And today we just want to pay attention to the last question, the question of why waves are formed on the sea.

Why waves on the sea

There are theories that the waves on the seas and in the oceans arise due to the drops of pressure indicators. However, it often is only the assumptions of people who quickly try to find an explanation of such natural phenomenon. In fact, everything is somewhat different.

Remember that makes the water "worry". This is a physical impact. Throwing anything into the water, having spent on it with a hand sharply by water, vibrations of different sizes and frequencies are certainly starting to go. Based on this, it can be understood that the waves are the result of the physical effect on the surface of the water.

However, why are big waves come to the sea from afar? Wine everything is another natural phenomenon - the wind.

The fact is that the wind gusts pass over the water along the tangent lines, exerting a physical effect on the seaside surface. It is this effect that injected water and makes it move to the waves.

Someone, of course, will be given to another question about why waves on the sea and in the ocean go by oscillatory movements. However, the answer to this question is even easier than the nature of the waves. The fact is that the wind has a non-permanent physical effect on the surface of the water, because it goes to her impulse of different strength and power. This affects the fact that the waves have different size and frequency of oscillation. Of course, strong waves, a real storm, arise when the wind exceeds the norms of the norm.

Why the sea waves without wind

A very reasonable nuance is the question of why waves are present at sea even if an absolute calm is observed if the wind is completely absent.

And here the answer to the question will be the fact that water waves are an ideal source of renewable energy. The fact is that the waves are capable of keeping their potential for a very long time. That is, the wind, which led water, creating a certain amount of oscillations (waves), can be enough to ensure that the wave continues its fluctuate a very long time, and the wave potential itself has not exhausted itself even after tens of kilometers from the point of origin of the wave.

That's all the answers to questions about why the sea waves.

Where do giant waves come from?

What is due to the emergence of most waves in the oceans and seas, about the energy of the waves and the most giant waves.

The main reason for the appearance of oceanic waves is the effect of winds on the aqueous surface. Species of some waves can develop and even exceed 95 km per hour. Comb from the crest can be divided by 300 meters. They pass on the surface of the ocean huge distances. Most of their energy is spent before they reach sushi, maybe, bypassing the deepest place in the world - Mariana Wpadin. Yes, and their dimensions are becoming less. And if the wind calms down, then the waves become calmer and smooth.

If in the ocean is a strong breeze, then the wave height usually reaches 3 meters. If the wind begins to become a storm, then they can become 6 m. With a strong storm wind, their height can already be higher than 9 m and they become steep, with abundant splashes.

During the storm, when visibility is hampered in the ocean, the wave height exceeds 12 meters. But during the strongest storm, when the sea is completely covered with foam and even small ships, yachts or ships (and not that fish, even the largest fish) They can simply be lost between 14 waves.

Blowing waves

Big waves gradually blur the shores. Small waves can slowly align the beach with a nanos. Waves hit the shore at a certain angle, therefore, the nanos, washed into one place, will lead and will be postponed on the other.

During the strongest hurricanes or storms, such changes may occur that huge segments can be significantly transformed suddenly.

Yes, and not only the shore. Once, in very far from us 1755, the waves of 30-meter heights demolished Lisbon from the face, loading the city under the tons of water, turning them into ruins and destroying more than half a million people. And it happened in a large Catholic holiday - the day of all saints.

Waves killers

The biggest waves usually watch the needle course (or the flow of Agullas) that off the coast of South Africa. It also noted and the highest wave in the ocean. Its height was 34 m. In general, the largest of ever seen waves was recorded by Lieutenant Frederick Margo on the vessel holding his way from Manila in San Diego. It was February 7, 1933. The height of that wave was also about 34 meters. Such waves sailors gave the nickname "wavelength killers." As a rule, an unusually high wave is always preceded by the same deep swelling (or failure). It is known that in such depression-failures disappeared a large number of ships. By the way, the waves formed during the tides are not connected with tides. They are caused by an underwater earthquake or an eruption of a volcano on the sea or oceanic day, which creates a movement of huge waters and, as a result, big waves.

NOD on the environmental education of children 6-7 years

with research elements

Subject:Where do waves come from?

Objective NOD:continue to acquaint children with air properties. Give children a concept about air traffic. To give children the opportunity to solve the problem situation in the process of research. Develop mental activity, observation. Continue to form in children cognitive interest in nature.

Methods and techniques:children's experimentation, gaming reception, conversation, modeling method, problem situation.

Material:baths with water, paint, tassels for each child. Paper ships and fan by the number of children. Diaries of observations, pencils, "pirate card", a bag with "treasures" - shells, pebbles, etc.

Node move:

Guys, let's play one very interesting game:

I will be an artist, and you paint. With the help of you, I will draw different pictures.

I decided to draw the sea. All the guys, except Sasha, stand next to each other and pull out your hands forward, you will be the sea, and Sasha shod. A very calm sea is drawn on this picture, light ripple runs on its surface. The boat sails on the sea: (children stand calmly, slightly mechanic fingers, a child depicting a boat, "sails" by children). Suddenly, not big waves appeared on the sea. Let's try to draw these waves. (Children perform with palms of hands Light wave-like movements, a child - a boat sails around the sea, as if swaying on the waves). Now I decided to draw the sea during the storm. Show me what will be the sea during a storm, which waves will be on it. Draw this picture. (Children make energetic wave-like hands with hands, and the boat sails strongly swinging on the wave).

Well, you managed to draw a real sea storm.

What do you think guys from where waves appear on the sea? (Waves appear because of the wind).

Do you want to check it really? (Yes).

Then let's briefly become scientists with you and spend a few experiments that will help us know exactly where the waves are taken from the sea. Go to our laboratory and take place behind your desktops.

(Children sit at the tables on which there are equipment for experiments).

In order to start our experiences, we need the sea. Each of you will make your own. Take the bowls and pour in them water from bottles that stand on your tables. Everybody did the same sea? (Yes).

And how, with the help of the paints that you see on your tables, will we with you with you so that your seas become different? (Add paint to water).

What then happens to water? (It will become color).

Let's try to do it. (Children paint water with different colors of paints)

Why did your water become color? (Children's assumptions. If children find it difficult to answer, then remember previously conducted experiments with water and bring them to the conclusion that water does not have colors and paint in any color).

What are your seas now? (The sea turned out different colors).

Now we have a black, red, yellow, blue sea.

Look, is there any waves on your sea now? Or sea calm, serene? (No waves. Sea is calm, serene).

And now poured quietly on your sea.

What happened to the sea? (Waves appeared).

Why did the waves appear? (Because we poured to water).

That's right. You, looked at the sea, and began to move the air above the water, and it was this air that forced the water to move, and the waves turned out.

A, let's try to test our assumption in a different way that there are waves from the air movement on the sea?

To do this, take a paper fan and enjoy them in your face. What do you feel? (Like wind blowing).

You felt the wind of the wind, that is, how the air moves. Now you can put the fan over your sea. What happened to the sea? (Waves appeared again).

Now you know exactly where the waves come from? (Yes. We made a wind by the fan and forced to move the air over the sea. Waves appeared).

What do you think this experience confirms our Swami an assumption that waves appear from the movement of air to the sea or not? (Children's responses).

You know that all scientists write their observations made during experiments. And we will draw our experiences in our diaries. (Make sketchy sketches of experience).

Guys, you have done a very serious scientific work. We must relax a bit. Let's play. Stand next to your chairs. Repeat the words of the game for me and move moving with me.

The wind blows on the square,

Shots waves in the blue sea . (hands raised up, make tilts aside);

Fish hide on the bottom -

Swim in a storm is not easy! (Sat and mimic the movement of the swimmer)

And how will the storm in the sea

The sun will rise in the sky - (get up on socks, hands stretch up to "Sun)

We are in your boat,

I'll swim in the sea at sea! (imitate the movement of the swimmer).

Look, guys, and on your tables are small, paper boats. You can go on them to any journey. Where do you want to swim? (Children's responses)

And let's swim on the island, where the pirates burned the treasure of the sea king? (Children's responses)

Then drop your ships to the sea and let's swim. (The children omit their ships to the water, each in their "sea").

But why are our ships in place? Why don't they move? What should I do, what would they swam? (Children express various assumptions: push the hand, wave a fan, so that the wind appeared).

And let's try quietly at the ship. What happened? (Ship shoved).

Why did our boat swam, what made him move? (We looked at the boat with air, and the air forced the boat)

Right. But the ship sails very quietly. So we will swim too long to our island with treasures. What to do? (Children's assumptions. During the discussion, bring the children to the assumption that you need to pour stronger to the ship).

Let's try to hide harder on the boat. What happened? (Our ship sailed faster).

What do you think the boat began to swim faster? (We poured harder on it).

So the stronger the flow of air, the faster our boat is floating.

So we sailed to our island. Let's put ships to land.

Look, guys, I have a pirate map of the island. On her, the crossmark is marked where the treasures are buried.

(Children view the card and determine the place in the group that is marked with a cross. Find treasures, pre-hidden by the teacher).

Look, but also a bag with treasures. Let's see what lies there. (Open the bag and get different seashells, marine pebbles, pearls, dried starfish, etc.)

Do you like the treasures of the sea king?

Then I suggest the next time to go on a journey around the sea and look at the guests to the marine king.

The main reason for the formation of waves is the wind blowing over the water. Therefore, the magnitude of the wave depends on the strength and time of its impact. Because of the wind, the water particles rise up, sometimes taking off from the surface, but after some time under the action of natural gravity, they inevitably fall down. From afar it may seem that the wave moves forward, but in fact, if this wave, of course, is not a tsunami, (the tsunami has another nature of the occurrence) it only goes away and rises. So, for example, a sea bird, to the surface of the growing sea, will swing on the waves, but will not move from the spot.

Only at the shore, where there is no longer deep, the water moves forward, rolling ashore. By the way, on the scallop splashes from the ripped droplets forming a comb on the wave, experienced sailors determine the degree of excitement of the sea, if the comb and foam on it only began to form, it means that the sea of \u200b\u200bsea 3 points.

What kind of sea wave is called rolling.

Waves on the sea can exist without winds, these are tsunamis caused by natural cataclysms like the underwater eruptions of volcanoes, and the wave that sailors are called rolling. It is formed to the sea after a strong storm when the wind is verse, but due to the large mass of the water that came into motion from the wind and the phenomenon called the resonance of the waves continue to swing. It should be noted that such waves are not much safer than the storm and easily can overturn the ship or boat with inexperienced navigators.