Can a Russian sauna exist without a stove? Of course not - in this case, it will turn into a completely uninteresting and prosaic bath room, because the main thing in a Russian bath is steam. To obtain it in the required quantities, a stove is built in a bath. It heats the air in the steam room to a temperature higher than 60 degrees, on its hot stones it accumulates thermal energy, the water falling on the stones is instantly transformed into such a scalding steam that is beneficial to human health.

Basic requirements for stoves

Insofar as stove-heater represents the most important component of the Russian bath, serious requirements are imposed on it:

• high heating capacity, the ability to heat the air to a temperature of 95 ° C under the ceiling of the room (on the floor - up to + 45 * C), increase the temperature to the required parameters in a short period of time, while being economical
• it shouldn't take up much space
• the volume of heated water must meet the minimum requirements of all family members, which is about 15 liters per person
• its design must be such that the heat accumulated by the stones is retained for a long time
• during the operation of the stove, gases and smoke should not penetrate into the room.

Types of stoves, stoves, stoves with a closed stove and an open

To obtain steam, they resort to pouring water over the hot stones that are in the stove. Thus, the stove heater provides heating of the entire room and the creation of the required microclimate in it.

Sauna stoves are of two types: stoves with a closed or open stove. For small baths, you can use an open-type oven. It allows you to heat up the room very quickly, but after sprinkling with water, the stove cools down quickly. Stones in this model are placed above the firebox.

Most often, a closed-type stove for a bath is built, in which the fuel is burned with a buried steam door, it is at the same level as the upper row of stones. To speed up the heating of the bath room, they resort to opening the door. Such a stove should be melted in advance - it will take a couple of hours to warm up. Heat is stored in closed heaters for a couple of days.

Brick stove with metal stove and side water tank: 1 - tank support; 2 - water tank; 3 - chimney; 4 - hatch for watering stones; 5 - heater cover; 6 - wire clips; 7 - stones; 8 - heater grill; 9 - stands for the stove's pedestal; 10 - grate; 11 - firebox door; 12 - blower door

To heat the bath and get steam in it, brick and metal structures are usually used. They are heat-intensive, simple, and reliable in operation. Brickwork prevents too much heating of the metal structure, bath stones can heat up at the bottom - up to about 1000 degrees C, at the top - up to 500.

Drawings of the stove-stove can be varied, depending on the design and the estimated mass of the structure, the project may include the construction of the foundation - with an estimated weight of the stove over 450 kg, or without it - with a lower weight.

Experts recommend deepening the foundation by 0.5 m relative to the ground surface, in each direction it should be 0.1 m wider than the base of the stove. For the manufacture of the foundation, you can use concrete or rubble stone. Also, it will not be superfluous to lay a layer of waterproofing material - glassine or roofing material on a row of bricks laid on top of the base of the foundation.

Basic principles for the construction of a stove-heater

To prevent the occurrence of fire hazardous situations, it is not recommended to violate the following rules.

• The stove should not be built closer than at a distance of 0.4 m from made of wood or other fire hazardous materials; for metal stoves lined with bricks, this distance should be increased to 0.7 m, for metal stoves - up to 1 m.If the size of the room is small, then to reduce the distances, you can resort to wall insulation with asbestos sheets and foil.
• For the construction of a stove-heater, only red brick of normal firing, without defects, with straight edges and corners, is used.
• It is not recommended to use bricks made with violations of the firing technology (burnt or unburned), sand-lime brick, slotted and perforated - they all quickly collapse under the influence of high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself stove-heater

When building a stove-heater with their own hands, they use a solution made of sand and clay. Plaster, if it is supposed, is made with a mortar of clay, sand and lime, which are mixed in a ratio of 1: 4: 1. The sand should be of good quality, free from impurities. dry, before preparing the solution, it is sieved. Do not use fine or silty sand.

Clay is soaked before use, for which it is poured into a metal container and poured with water. It is best to use clay that has been outdoors in winter and has undergone a freezing process. The proportions of sand and clay to be mixed may vary slightly depending on the quality of the clay.

Bricklaying begins from the base.

Before laying, each brick should be dipped in water for 20 seconds - this will be enough time to fill its pores with water. The laying of the foundation of the furnace to the floor level is carried out on a mortar of cement and sand, having a ratio of 1: 3. Next, a clay-sand solution is used. Before laying the base of the furnace, equip another layer of waterproofing.

When laying a brick, it is recommended to carefully compare its dimensions in height and length, usually for high-quality masonry, it is enough to lay each row "dry". The seams with this order of work will turn out beautiful and of the same thickness, it is recommended - no more than 0.5 cm. The rows begin with a corner brick.

When performing masonry, you should strictly monitor that the rows are laid strictly horizontally, the seams between the bricks should be very densely filled. The verticality of the masonry is determined using a plumb line, horizontal - using a level. When laying bricks, vertical joints should be avoided, each of them should overlap in the next row.

In the process of masonry, such indispensable components of the stove-heater are mounted as: grates, damper, doors, water tank. The grate of the grate is installed in the opening of the furnace, taking into account the gap on all sides of about 0.5 cm. For the blower and furnace doors, pieces of wire with a diameter of 2 mm are laid in the seams. Laying in rows with a door begins from the place where it is located.

A stove with a tank assumes, when installing the tank, to fill the space around it with an clay-asbestos mixture, which will allow the tank to expand freely when heated.

If this moment is not taken into account, then there will be a threat of cracks in the masonry.

In places where the chimney passes through the ceiling and roof, a layer of thermal insulation must be laid, for example - mineral wool covered with foil or tin. To protect the chimney from precipitation, a tin cap is erected over it.

It is not recommended to start operating the stove in the bath immediately - it should be thoroughly dried. This may take 3-4 days. All doors and flaps must be open when drying. Windows and doors are also left open.

First, the stove is heated with chips for 15 minutes several times a day. Repeat the procedure until moisture ceases to appear on the surface of the damper. This is a clear sign that the stove is completely dry. You should not rush to start operating a large furnace - its strong heating can damage it.

Since for the construction of a stove, a high-quality brick is usually used that has enough decorative view, then plastering it is not at all necessary. In addition, the brick looks good enough against the background of natural wood walls.

Stove ordering

In order for the stove to cope with the functions assigned to it when laying it, it is advisable to use a special diagram, which displays each row in a cross section.

For different types the stove provides for a strictly defined number of rows, their number depends on the size of the structure.

Ordering example:

Reducing their number is permissible only if the ceilings in the room are very low.

Two types of ovens

The wood-burning stove is of two types: intermittent and continuous. Batch ovens are heated not during a visit to the steam room, but several hours before the arrival of people, for 3-5 hours. During this time, the stones manage to reach a temperature of about 900 ° C. The steam in baths with such stoves is dry and light, it does not burn the body. It is forbidden to heat such a stove in front of visitors - the smoke from it enters the steam room.

Continuous ovens, on the contrary, involve heating them during the procedure. Stones in such models are placed in metal containers, the temperature of their heating can reach 600 ° C. The steam in such saunas is damp and scalding.

How to choose a stove for your sauna

Since the requirements for the stove are quite diverse and somewhat contradictory, special attention should be paid to the choice of the type and size of the stove. First of all, the design must correspond to the dimensions of the room. If its sizes are from 4 to 9 square meters then the best option there will be a metal stove lined with bricks. It is relatively lightweight and is built without a foundation. But at the same time, it will require reinforcement of the floor at its location with the help of thickened planks. For a more even distribution of the load, a sheet of asbestos cardboard and metal, about 2-3 mm thick, is laid under its base.

The stones for the actual steam room should also be chosen carefully. They have to:

• have a big specific gravity and dense structure, homogeneous surface, do not crack when water gets on them,
• be environmentally friendly, do not contain chemical or radioactive impurities harmful to humans,
• be heat resistant,
• their dimensions should correspond to the recommended range: 70-130 mm for large and 50-60 mm for small samples.

It would be best to purchase stones for the stove-heater in specialized stores.

Before dealing with the issue of the device of stoves for a bath, we ourselves spent a lot of time studying this topic. Therefore, we know that people who have an idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe designs of bath stoves usually do not condescend to explain everything from scratch, and most of the texts on the Internet are written by those who are not at all in the subject.

Stove designs for a bath: common points and differences for different types

So what is a stove? This is a fire built inside a container. But combustion is a fuel oxidation reaction, therefore, it cannot take place without oxygen. Therefore, we call a furnace the container through which, at least temporarily, with open dampers, flowing air moves.

Thrust

This movement is called "thrust", and it occurs when there is inlet and outlet.

Of course, this definition is incomplete, because it does not apply to electric heaters. IN they are heated due to the passage of current through the material with high resistance. This produces heat.

But back to furnaces, where heat is generated by a chemical reaction. The art of the stove-maker is to skillfully vary the amount of air supplied, the amount of firewood in the bookmark, in order to achieve them uniform combustion and maximum complete combustion.

What happens if the combustion is still going on and the air is blocked? Instead of carbon dioxide, dangerous monoxide will begin to form - carbon monoxide ... But why shut off the pipe if it is so dangerous? - The traction is blocked so as not to chill the stove, when the wood burned out, because together with the air, heat also flies into the chimney.

So, we know about the role of air. Let's see the diagram the simplest oven with traction. What must be present in it? Three things:

• inlet (blower or firebox door);
• firebox (aka firebox);
• outlet (chimney).

The first division of the stoves can be carried out by the presence or absence of a blower: without it, they are called “deaf hearth ovens”. In this case, air is supplied through the open firebox door. This is how both look in section:

Kamenka

Now let's ask ourselves a question: what all sauna stoves have, but absent from stoves that heat houses? Of course it is stove... The container in which the stones lie is available for all stoves in the bath, even for electric ones. The stones themselves are used as accumulators- they accumulate heat. This is necessary to keep the high temperature in the steam room longer. Their other function is creating light steam, but in this capacity they are needed only in the Russian bath.

There are two classifications of heaters according to different criteria: one takes into account contact with fire in the firebox, the second - contact with air.

If there are gaps between the firebox and the stove, through which tongues of flame lick stones, then this flow heater.

If the obstacle is deaf, then the heater is called deaf.

When a container with stones is inside the oven, it is closed heater.

And if the stones are in sight - open.

In this regard, furnaces are classified as follows:

Let us explain: if the heater is running, then the poured water will be poured into the furnace. Therefore, you have to wait until the firewood burns out, then only supply water. Since combustion stops, the action of the stove is called "periodic"... Respectively a continuous oven is not filled with water and firewood can burn all the time of bath procedures.

On a note! Most often, permanent actions are metal ovens, and periodic - brick, but there are exceptions. If a deaf stove is made in a brick oven, then such a stove is called a combined one.

Material inertness

So, the fire is burning, the stones are heating up, but what happens to the steam room? If we need to heat stones up to 300-400 degrees, then can you imagine how much the air in the steam room can heat up during this time? And now we come to the next important point: the role of material in the design of sauna stoves.

Furnaces are either brick or metal... No other is given. The former are considered to be very inertial - it takes hours to heat them, as well as to cool them down... The latter are able to heat up in half an hour and during the same time manage to overheat the steam room. Excellent property for saunas!

Choosing a design, you determine for yourself how inertial its body should be. You have at your disposal not only "clean" options: pure brick, pure metal stove, but also combined... For example, you can increase the inertia of a metal stove either by using internal firebox and heater lining, or using external casing-sarcophagus. Moreover, the option with a casing and a lining at the same time is not excluded).

Important! Answer the question, what is the optimal time for kindling the furnace for you - it is this that determines the degree of inertia of the body.

Smoke

What happens when fuel is burned? Heat is released, combustion products are formed - steam, gases and solids. The latter we call soot, soot, and all together - smoke... At the moment of leaving the furnace, this mixture is also heated up to several hundred degrees. And if you do not put something in her way heat-intensive obstacle, all this heat will simply fly away into the pipe in order to enhance the greenhouse effect on our planet.

However, once upon a time not only obstacles, but also pipes were not. Because they weren't made of wood! Therefore, the first type of stoves for the method of removing smoke is smokeless, "black".

In the simplest version it is a pile of stones, laid with a vault over a fire... IN modern version it is a brick hearth that keeps the same pile of stones from spreading. But the principle is the same: he made a fire under the stones, waited for the wood to burn out, released smoke into the street through a window or door - and you can steam yourself by pouring water on the heated stones.

Then appears smoke box- akin kitchen hood- the same separated from the oven. A similar option can be found in the bath today.

Then appears chimney... And if it is easily inserted into the stove (in a firebox or stove - it does not matter), then such a stove will be called straight-through... Heat is not taken from the furnace gases here, so it has the lowest efficiency.

But the heat is a pity, so the thought of the inventors went this way: what if you increase the path that the smoke takes inside the furnace? This is how the system appeared smoke circulation, where the smoke runs with obstacles inside the channels that lead it up and down, or horizontally to the right and left. The system is excellent for heat extraction, but with its own shortcomings - channels, especially horizontal channels, must be cleaned regularly otherwise there will be no thrust.

An alternative to the smoke circulation system has become bell stove... There are no channels in it, it practically does not depend on traction. Hot furnace gases, leaving the firebox, end up under the bell, where they actively share heat with the furnace mass. New portions of incandescent furnace gases rise, displacing the cooled down and into the pipe.

but everything said about the chimney primarily refers to brick stoves... It is rare to find a metal stove with a smoke circulation. Usually they are primitive - straight-through, except that they have flame diffusers. And their size is much smaller than that of brick ones, you can't walk around there even with passages, and there is no heat-intensive material - where to take the heat?

The stove ends with a chimney. Remains optional - tank or heat exchanger, which can also be indicated on the diagram of the oven for the bath. But it is better to talk about this when analyzing specific structures, to which, in fact, we are moving on.

Scheme of a furnace for a brick bath

From the above, it already follows that there are several schematic diagrams of a brick oven:

• straight-through;
• with smoke circulation;
• bell.

However, each allows for many options for implementation. In other words, the given diagrams clearly demonstrate the characteristic, but do not exhaust the possible.

Sauna stove device: straight-through

Usually, in a brick oven, the implementation of a straight-through design is accompanied by a closed flow-through heater. In this case, there is no reason to fear that the furnace gases will not have enough time to cool down before leaving - passing them through the mass of the stone fill effectively removes heat.

By the way, the diagram shows that two types of bricks are used in the design of the sauna stove: red refractory and chamotte- they are shown in red and yellow. Pay attention to the fact that there is a gap between them - this is an essential moment.

Designs of sauna stoves with smoke circulation

You already know the purpose of the smoke circulation, but the difficulties associated with it are not yet. In the oven, everything is built on compromises. And this system is no exception. Start with the fact that horizontal channels are much better than vertical ones both in terms of heat distribution and the durability of the furnace- there is no big vertical temperature difference, the oven does not crack. But with this arrangement, there is another problem: the walls are overgrown with soot. Vertical ones grow more slowly, but here they need to be cleaned once a week, otherwise the thrust decreases and the efficiency drops. therefore vertical channels were preferable.

The number of revolutions can vary from 1 to 12, but practice has shown that the optimal number of revolutions does not exceed 4... As for their section, it should not be too small or too large. In the first case, there are more holds for soot, in the second, there is an ineffective heat intake.

On a note! The channels from the inside should be as smooth as possible, they are specially cleaned for this from the remains of the solution. When laying, the smoothest geometry should face inward. The reason - any roughness is a hold for soot.

Furnace device in the bath: bell-type

The design of the sauna stove may not contain channels. We have already shown you the device of the simplest bell-type furnace. Now a little more detail.

Its principle is simple: above the firebox, you need to build something like an inverted glass, and make the exit into the chimney next to its lower edge. This is a pretty clean design that suffers little from soot... The gases move as they want - the heated ones rise to the bottom of the glass, transferring heat to it, while they cool and tend downward, they are replaced by new portions from the firebox.

Important! It is very easy to melt such a stove even after a long break in work.

However, it also has disadvantages:

• the upper part of the stove warms up well, and for a good heating of the steam room, it is necessary that the heat goes from below. It is being treated system of two hoods.
• for the correct firebox, you need a skill - in an overheated furnace, gases cease to flow under the bell, it is easier for them to immediately escape into the chimney. Is being treated fine adjustment of the air entering the firebox.

Output! Without experience, all the advantages of a bell-type stove can be nullified.

With tank or coil

Metal stove from a pipe

On our website you can find, which tells how to make such a heater. Here we will only present the diagrams themselves with some comments.

So, the owner has two options for a stove from a pipe:

• vertical;
• horizontal.

Usually they take a half-meter diameter pipe. The figure shows that the pipe can be lined from the inside(or you can leave it as it is, then it will burn out faster). Chamotte along the walls is shown in yellow.

Also, the owner is free to choose a stove with a deaf hearth or a blower. The difference between them was discussed above. But pay attention to the door of the deaf hearth oven- in order not to keep it open, holes are drilled in it, which provide air flow, if the pipe is not blocked at the top with a gate. If, however, the stove is slightly lengthened by the blower, then the draft will be regulated by opening blower door... Then the holes become superfluous.

The water tank is shown in both figures, but is actually optional. Some make it lower by welding a metal box with a lid on the side of the oven - this is for the convenience of pouring in the absence of cold water supply in the bath.

The horizontal stove has a completely different structure - it turns out the stove open... This is a welded stone basket - with such a stove, you can't get a good steam.

Yes, and in the picture we depicted the grate (under the flame) recognizable, but in reality its grate perpendicular to the direction you see here.

The water tank is welded to the back of the stove.

Useful video

Not just a diagram, but also a description of the advantages and disadvantages of a vertical and horizontal design (not necessarily from a pipe). Plus interesting life hacks.

Even more schemes, even more explanations about them. However, the main concern of the author of the video is that you get a stove for a real Russian bath. So sauna lovers don't need to watch it).

We hope that you have received some kind of holistic understanding of what a sauna stove is. The rest can only be learned from practice and experiment. Good luck to you!

In contact with

There are many metal stoves for a bath on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in metal welding, you can make the furnace yourself, according to its size. About how to make a stove for a bath from metal (sheet), drawings and photos - further.

There is a significant difference between the steam bath and sauna modes. In the sauna, the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At such a temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get a burn, and it will crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In the Russian steam room, the temperature is kept in the range of 55-65 ° C, occasionally rising to 70 ° C. At such temperatures, the humidity is "catching up" high - 50-60%.

To meet these different objectives, different approaches are required for constructing a furnace. The sauna requires the greatest contact area of ​​the stove body with the surrounding air and the acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. There is a stove, but it is small, open, and is usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250 ° C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But you don't need a lot in the sauna - one / two ladles will give 15% humidity. You just can't take it anymore.

In a Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and to achieve a large amount of steam. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called "dry" and has a high temperature - about 130-150 ° C. Under this condition, after soaring, the body feels lightness and a surge of strength. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones, the temperature of which is not less than 500 ° C. To reach it, the stones are "packed" inside the firebox - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

As you can see, there are solid design differences. They must be borne in mind.

Homemade stoves for a Russian bath

What else should be borne in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls keep the temperature within the required 60-65 ° C is unrealistic. Be sure to overheat. At the same time, hard infrared radiation emanates from the walls of the furnace and it is hard to be near. The problem can be solved in two ways:

It's also worth talking about the seams. In home-made metal furnaces (in factory ones, in principle, too), burnout often begins precisely from the seams. In production, this problem is circumvented by using bent structures. In the upper part, they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a stove for a bath with your own hands, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal 6-10 mm thick, so there is only one thing left - to make the seams as high quality as possible.

Stove: what size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of the steam room (provided that it is normal). Different sources have different recommendations with more or less - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m 3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to get the required amount of steam, but provided that the stove has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that stones of different rocks have different densities, and, therefore, the same mass occupies a different volume. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately as follows: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. The parameters can be slightly changed, made wider / narrower / higher - see the design of the furnace.

The ratio of the volume of the furnace to the volume of the stove is a complex heat engineering calculation, which not even every heat engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. At a minimum, the volume of the firebox "free" from the heater should not be less. Better if even more by about 30-50%.

A little about which part of the firebox is best to place the stone box. All have long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. It is in this place that it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the furnace arch is removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Do not forget about the maintenance of the heater and the fact that water must somehow get there. The service hatch should be positioned so that you can reach the farthest edge with your hand without any problems. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to burn yourself. Typically, a tube or tube system is inserted that extends across the entire plane of the stone container. From the side of the room, this tube ends with a funnel. The pipe is covered with stones. When water is fed into it, it spreads over the surface of the heater / stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal bath stoves

This oven is designed for a steam room 2 * 3 * 2.3 m. It was cooked from sheet metal with a thickness of 3 mm.

To activate combustion, it is provided to connect an additional air duct laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffening ribs (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend during strong heating.

The following diagram of a metal stove for a bath is made with air supply to the upper part of the firebox. These are the so-called afterburner furnaces. A metal plate is welded on the back wall. Air from under the grate is supplied to the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace with the help of duct tubes. It seems that this simple device solves two problems at once. First, it cools the back wall, reducing the likelihood of burnout. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part when heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which are combustible (up to 80%). When these gases mix with the heated air, the combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the firebox becomes even higher, the stones are heated to higher temperatures. At the same time (when using dry wood) much less fuel is required. Many ovens are built on this principle. long burning, but it has recently come into use in sauna stoves.

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, is made in a different format. The dimensions are not indicated here, but it is easier to understand the proportions and arrangement of various elements.

Volumetric model of a homemade stove made of metal

In this case, the volume of the firebox is about 130% of the volume of the stove. Normal ratio. The chimney is displaced back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when constructing a chimney - it can rest against ceiling beam- you will have to bend the chimney, which is undesirable. So what about the location of the pipe - think about it.

Even among bath lovers, there are constant disputes: a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad ... Some regulate the humidity by opening / closing the tank lid. This option suits them. Others say that this steam is "heavy", and they take the tank into the washing compartment, and the water in it is heated by integrating a heat exchanger into the firebox and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The next diagram is a stove in a metal bath with a water tank.

The design is competent - with the help of a "spark arrester" the path of passage of flue gases is longer, it stays in the furnace longer, and heats up the walls better. If you don't want the tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank located at the back of the stove. The chimney is pushed back and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, the heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the outlet of the tank will not be high for sure.

The heater is interestingly arranged. It is not very large, but its volume is enough for small and medium-sized steam rooms. It is closed with a lid, which is not very convenient on the one hand: it will be problematic to close the lid after water is supplied to the stones. On the other hand, it is easy to maintain.

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating devices is to quickly "catch up" the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - put a fan that will blow the walls of the oven, accelerating heating.

The convector casing performs approximately the same function. This is a casing around the furnace body. A gap of 1.5-2 cm remains between it and the wall of the firebox. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It runs along the walls, heats up, cooling the walls at the same time. Then it rises upward, carrying heat through the steam room.

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can also be made of thin metal. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If the stove for the sauna is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body for ventilation of the stove. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the stove, blow off the stones and heat up even more. Such a heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

Sauna stoves are simpler in design. You need a normal size firebox that can hold large logs. In the upper part, above the upper part of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. Variations can be in width / height / depth, but there are no special tricks.

Installing a water heating tank in the steam room of a sauna is not a good idea. You will not be able to control the humidity and it is easy to get burned at high temperatures. However, there are several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If you wish, you can make a lid on it and such an oven can be used in two modes - with open lid for dry vaping, open vaping for more steam.

Despite the fact that the brick oven takes longer to warm up, it is able to provide a more uniform heating of the steam room and the absence of "cold zones". Experienced bathers claim that it is comfortable to stay in such a room even at high temperatures.

Brick kilns are quite complex devices, and their laying requires special skill. You can do it yourself, but only with strict adherence to the stacking (ordering) scheme and knowledge of certain subtleties.

Do you need a foundation?

Such a structure will have significant weight, therefore, before installing it, a solid foundation must be erected. Some experts argue that if the building is built on a solid foundation, its separate erection for the furnace is not required. However, in swampy areas or in northern regions, where, due to temperature changes, even carefully compacted soil will "play", it is better to provide for a heater separate foundation.

It is undesirable to cut the supporting beams and logs for its construction, rafters and floor beams for the outlet of the chimney, therefore it is better to choose a place for the furnace even before the construction of the building begins.

Important! Such a foundation should not be tied to the main one, since due to the large temperature difference during heating, the expansion coefficient will be too large. The distance between the main and furnace foundations should be at least half a meter.

Sauna stove foundation

Erection of the foundation for the furnace

Pit depth is determined based on the properties of the soil: at high density, 20-50 cm is enough, in loose soils it deepens by 50-100 cm. Its width should be a brick more than the base of the furnace. Before laying, sand is poured onto the bottom, which is carefully spilled with water for compaction, then crushed stone or broken bricks are laid and tamped tightly.

Important! The cement-sand mortar finally hardens and gains strength for at least a week, therefore, a heavy furnace should not be erected until it dries completely.

The surface of the foundation should not reach the floor level to the height of two bricks. 2 layers are placed on the finished base waterproofing: roofing felt impregnated with tar mastic or roofing felt treated with bituminous solution. The gaps between the foundation and the floor are filled with sand and compacted.

The foundation can also be made of solid brick or rubble (large building stone irregular shape), which are laid out on the flooded cement mortar base. The penultimate row of the brick foundation is also covered with a layer of waterproofing.

Laying the foundation

Start of masonry

What is ordering?

Order they call a detailed masonry scheme indicating the order of placing bricks in each row. For work, you should choose the order of the stove, corresponding to the size of the steam room. For example, if the stove is located above the firebox, to ensure their maximum heating, the firebox is made at least 0.5 m.With a steam room volume of up to 12 sq. m and a water tank of 40 liters, the size of the stove with dry steam will be 0.77 × 0.5 m.The height of the firebox in this case should be about 0.5 m.

In the absence of proper experience, it is better not to change the scheme. If the room is non-standard, and nevertheless, any changes are required, it is better to show the corrected order to an experienced specialist.

The masonry scheme in any drawings always starts from row zero. It is necessary to bring the foundation to floor level. It is not difficult to determine the height of the future structure: in the diagram, each division is 10 cm and is equal to the average height of the brick.

The two pictures below show an example of a brick oven with a water tank and its order. The diagram shows that the bricks are laid in different ways: with a spoon (on one side) or with a bed (wide part) down.

Heater stove with tank

Ordering a heater with a top-positioned tub

Sand-clay mortar

Cement does not tolerate high temperatures, therefore it is not used for the furnace. Masonry is carried out with the help of a solution of clay, mined at a sufficient depth without admixtures of earth and other foreign inclusions, and sand.

Start of masonry

Before starting work, the clay should stand in water for several days and soften. Before combining with sand, it is thoroughly mixed with water to the consistency of fatty thick sour cream. The remaining lumps can be broken up using a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment.

To prevent pebbles and small stones from falling into narrow seams, the sand is carefully sieved. For laying refractory bricks, clay and sand are mixed in a ratio of 1: 2... To prevent the solution from drying, the batch is prepared in small portions. The solution should be slightly rough, as elastic as possible and lay down without tearing.

But the fat content of clay is different, and the fatter it is, the more sand should be in the solution. That is why experienced stove-makers check the viscosity by shaking it off a stick or trowel.

The normal thickness of the layer remaining after shaking is 2 mm. If it is less, clay is added. If the solution resembles plasticine in consistency, and after shaking a solution of more than 3 mm remains, more sand should be added to the mixture.

Brick selection

If a firebox is planned with coal or gas, high-quality refractory bricks with frost resistance up to 25 cycles are used for the work. For a wood-burning stove, it is better to use its refractory (like Gzhel) variety. Hollow and silicate species are not used, since they quickly collapse under the influence of high temperatures.

Sometimes, in order to save money, only the firebox is laid out with refractory (chamotte) bricks, and the rest of the furnace is reported with ordinary silicate bricks. But, since the coefficient of their thermal expansion is different, they should not be combined in the strapping.

You can check the quality of the brick by simply tapping on it with any hard object. In the absence of marriage, the sound will not be muffled, but sonorous, "metallic". Do not use products with visible cracks, foreign inclusions and excessively porous. High-quality fireclay brick has a rich yellowish (sandy) shade, unbaked - a pale and dull color.

Fireclay brick

Furnace masonry

Before laying, to improve adhesion and prevent dehydration of the mortar, the brick is soaked for several minutes in water until bubbles emerge. Fireclay bricks can only be immersed in water for a short time to remove dust.

The first row of bricks should be laid dry on the foundation without using a sand-clay mixture. During subsequent laying, the thickness of the mortar layer should be 3-6 mm. The solution is applied to the layer and the buttocks of the brick. At the chosen place, it should be slightly moved, and then, tapping with a trowel, press it tightly.

Bricklaying

To strengthen the structure, the brick is laid out offset the next row by 30-50% and overlapping the joint... When working, you will definitely need halves and quarters. To prevent cracking, cutting best done with a grinder equipped with a diamond disc.

Laying of halves and parts of bricks

In places of contact with bricks, the door is insulated with asbestos, 4 strong wires or strips of galvanized sheet are screwed to it with the help of bolts and washers, which will be laid in the seams of the masonry. Grooves are cut in the bricks to achieve a tightness to the size of the wire.

Installing the door

Installing the door

To ensure better heating, bath stones are placed on a steel or cast iron grate. The fewer there are, the drier the steam will be in the room. In a Russian bath, the weight of stones is at least 50-60, in a sauna - 30 kg.

in order to ideally select the bricks in size, each row is placed first dry without mortar, the excess length is carefully trimmed, the bricks are numbered, and then assembled in a row already on the mortar;
the oven, laid out unevenly, will not stand for long, therefore, even the slightest deviations should not be allowed: after laying each row, it is better to check the horizontal and vertical using a level; the accuracy of the angles is additionally determined using plumb lines or a corner;
in order for the grate and doors to serve as long as possible, it is better to choose not steel, but more refractory cast iron;
in wood stove the grate and the door are on the same level; when heating with coal, the grate should be 20 cm below the firebox;
when laying the grate, gaps for thermal expansion must be left; for this, if necessary, the brick is trimmed to the desired size;

Installing the grate

A small ventilation gap should be provided above the door, which will protect it from overheating or cut bricks in this place with a wedge;
to ensure a better air flow and complete combustion of fuel, the grates are laid only along the blower channel;
halves and quarters are best used in the upper rows;
so that the clay does not crack over time, the furnace can be reinforced with clay with a steel mesh; the fastening wire for it is provided already in the masonry.

Construction of a pipe and chimney

Iron chimneys have a serious drawback: when the temperature drops, condensation forms on them, which "attracts" soot, so it is better to build them from bricks as well.

Important! Only whole bricks are laid in the chimney. Due to the risk of them falling out, the use of halves and cracked parts is unacceptable. The chimney wall must be perfectly flat. Otherwise, lumps of soot will accumulate in the corners, and the shaft will quickly clog. It is advisable to round off the protrusions along the entire path of the smoke.

When installing a chimney, several rules should be observed:
high they call the system of passages connecting the chamber with fuel and the chimney; the size of its lower part depends on the width of the firebox and averages 3/4 of a brick; its cross-sectional area should be about 60-65% of the total area of ​​the chimney;
all places of passage of smoke should be immediately cleaned and the remaining solution should be completely removed;
it is unacceptable to narrow the chimney channel - it must be the same along its entire length; in addition, its cross-section cannot be less than the cross-section of the high, and its total length from the edge of the pipe to the grate is at least 5 m;

Chimney masonry

When laying the chimney and firebox, it is better to place the bricks with the burnt side to the fire and smoke;
if the chimney is too short the smoke will not have time to cool down, and the heat will simply fly into the chimney;
to protect against fire in the place of passage through the ceiling, the pipe is additionally lined with brick and wrapped in heat-resistant material;

Finishing the junction of the pipe to the ceiling

The height of the pipe after the ridge of the roof must be at least 0.5 m;
so that damage can be easily identified, the pipe is whitewashed lime mortar: In this case, smoke leaks can be easily identified by traces of soot.

Trial kindling of the furnace

It is believed that a perfectly dried stove before the first kindling will last longer, so it is better to leave it for a couple of weeks with the doors open until it dries completely. If there is no rain, the pipe valve is also left open. The room itself should be ventilated on these days.

Trial kindling is carried out with a small amount (about 500 g) of paper. This is done in order to detect the presence of traction and remove any remaining moisture from the oven. The blower should be completely open at this moment. After that, the oven is left for another day.

Advice... If it is damp outside, the first time the fire may flare up badly. In this case, in order to "push" the air upward, you can burn a newspaper rolled into a tube in the upper cleaning door or view.

The subsequent kindling with wood chips with a small amount of wood should be done carefully. The maximum amount of fuel can only be loaded after several firing ups. A perfectly folded stove does not smoke and heats up evenly. You can determine the degree of warming up by touching the hand to different parts of its surface. The brick oven should also cool down evenly.

The density of the masonry and the absence of cracks is determined by burning materials that produce a lot of smoke in a chimney. If cracks are found through which smoke will pass, they are covered with a solution.

Smoke movement diagram

For many centuries, the bathhouse in Russia was considered almost the most important attribute both in cities and in remote taiga settlements. Our ancestors loved to take a steam bath so much that even in their overseas trip to France, Peter I ordered to build at least a temporary bath - right on the banks of the Seine. Since that hour, much has changed both in the design and in the interior of the steam room, but there is something that will not disappear even after millennia: in a real Russian bath, the heat should be soft, but quite tangible, and the steam should be thick and enveloping.

All this directly depends on the oven chosen in the bath. And therefore, even before the construction of the steam room itself, experts advise first to revise the drawings of the stoves for the bath and choose the most optimal option.

Sauna stove connected to a water tank

Design features of sauna stoves

Sauna stoves "in black" and "in white"

For a long time, in Russian baths, use only stoves "in a black way" - their difference from the second type is only that they do not have a chimney. This is only a modern "white" stove with a chimney, you can melt it right in the process of washing - you just need to add fuel from time to time. And the temperature in the steam room with the help of such an oven is easy to regulate.

But in a more archaic version, even before the bath procedures, the oven and the whole room were well warmed up, the fire was extinguished, and the bath itself was thoroughly ventilated. And only after that you can bathe and wash in it. And what is interesting, and nowadays there are many fans of sauna stoves "in a black way": they say that the heat of the stove and the aroma of smoke-smoked walls are charming in their own way, and the smoke itself is for everything. under the root destroys both mold and rot. That is why the "smoke" baths really stood for centuries.

Furnace designs for convective air distribution

Modern designs of sauna stoves have a variety of convective air distribution systems. Basically, these are special casings for efficient heating of stones and relatively low heating of the outer walls of the furnace, due to which such a latter is considered safer in operation.

On the other hand, the stone lining, which can simply frame the stove, or can act as a full-fledged screen for the body, perfectly fights against the so-called "radiant heat" - the unpleasant infrared radiation of a red-hot metal body. Of the domestic ones, these are Sayana, Termofor and Imbolk mesh furnaces, the lining of which is made of soapstone.

A selection of drawings of popular designs

By virtue of its design, the oven for a bathhouse has completely different drawings than traditional ovens for heating a house. It is not for nothing that they are also called stoves - they are equipped with a special pocket for heating a pile of stones, due to which such stoves are heated quickly enough, and their heat capacity is high.

Drawings of brick stoves for a bath

If we talk about the material of the stove, then for a long time in Russian baths a massive brickwork on clay solution. And even today, many fans of steam and brooms prefer only this type of stove - after all, they are best suited for obtaining dry steam.

Depending on their design, sauna stoves are available as grate and grateless fireboxes. Voiceless is easier to maintain and more economical, and therefore simply ideal for careful use of firewood. But the grate firebox, with a separate blower, creates a sufficiently powerful high-temperature flame, thanks to which the air in the steam room and the stone fill heats up as quickly as necessary.

And simply irreplaceable grate stoves for those who have only raw or freshly prepared firewood in stock, but grateless stoves are much more demanding on the quality of the available fuel.

Popular options for metal ovens

But it is easier, of course, to buy a ready-made steel or cast-iron stove, already equipped with a "heat accumulator". And they are ordinary stoves, a metal lattice container with stones above the firebox and a 30-liter hot water tank in the upper part.

Metal stoves are made, usually from sheet iron with a thickness of 4-5 mm. Usually a water tank is also welded to them - it can be placed both around the chimney and on either side of the stove. But for filling the stones, a special open chamber is already being organized. By the way, such furnaces can operate on absolutely any fuel.

As you can see, all the drawings have the following common elements: a box and a firebox, which is a steel box with a neck of about 60 mm, designed for attaching a stove. The firebox is made of strong high-quality steel, the thickness of which is not less than 5 mm. The set includes two latches, a blower grill and a heater grill. The grill of the stove must be cooked from steel rods 20 mm in diameter so that the distance between them is 5 cm and they are freely installed on the supports. And the blower grille must be made of 8 mm steel rods - it must also be removable.

The heater for the stove is traditionally made of steel, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 mm - it should fit freely on the neck of the topic. But the doors to the heater itself should be made from the side facing the steam room.

As for metal gas ovens, they consist of a body and a special thermostat, which regulates the power of the unit. In addition, they must necessarily have a device that ensures the safety of such a furnace.

But for a small family bath, a closed one is also well suited - it is very compact and quite simple to manufacture. True, its heat capacity leaves much to be desired, which, in principle, can be easily corrected due to a complete brick cladding. An open stove differs from it only in the presence of a heater.

But in any case, metal furnaces are necessarily laid out with red refractory bricks, which must be laid out from the grate to the edge. Only the front side of the stove is not reported, and on the other three sides, the masonry needs to be done in only half a brick. They should be secured with wire clips 3 mm in diameter.

And after you have chosen a suitable project or drawing, study in the appropriate section of our website how to build your favorite stove with your own hands.