AND lemon Acid - A recipe that is particularly popular with radio amateurs. This is not only a fast, but also safe way to get ready for the soldering of elements of the future device of the canvas.

How did the fees in the past?

Previously, it was necessary to make a lot of effort. At first, the scheme was divorced on paper, then the holes were done in the workpiece, after which they transferred the tracks to the foil textolite or Ghetinax using the paintwork. After drying the coating, it was moved, and the board was immersed in a container with a meadow for etching.

The hardest thing was to have a fee. Since for these purposes, a meadow was used on a radio compartment. Such a means was not deficient, but at home I had to look for an alternative, which was most often performed by copper cune.

The processing of the board broke in itself another secret: the fee was poisoned unevenly. Some tracks were disgusted, and the surface was not afraid. All due to the inexperience of craftsmen or repeated use of the lugoque solution.

Modern method processing methods

Etching hydrogen peroxide fee and not new. Many have heard of such a method before. By choosing such a boot preparation option, you will discover not one advantage compared to etching in the chlorine gland. For example, the quality of processing, safety and environmental friendliness of peroxide in combination with an oxidizing agent.

House board processing recipe

All that is needed in order to perform equalizing hydrogen peroxide and citric acid, you will find in your first aid kit and in the kitchen or without problems can be purchased. Another indisputable advantage of board processing in this way is the value of the ingredients to create a solution. Here is another advantage of the hydrogen mixture - it will cost much cheaper than chlorine iron.

Component composition

• 3% - 100 ml.
• Lemon acid - 30 grams.
• Cook salt - 5 grams (as auxiliary component of the reaction).
• Water (in case of need).

Important! The solution prepared in such a proportion is enough to raise the copper foil with a thickness of 35 microns and an area of \u200b\u200b100 square meters. cm.

Preparation of board

1. Draw and type fee.
2. Cut the required sizes of a piece of textolite.
3. Transfer the toner to the textolit and leave to mock, then delete.

How to make a solution?

1. Heat the hydrogen peroxide: Put a bottle into a water bath and wait until the temperatures of two substances are aligned.
2. Take a cup. There is any, just not metallic.
3. Pour the preheated peroxide into the clean dry ass and pumped citric acid.
4. Mix the mix thoroughly.
5. Stirring, add salt, which in the solution plays the role of the catalyst.

How to ride the fee?

In order to etching hydrogen peroxide and lemon acid fees, you can use two containers. Just place a smaller container with a meadow in a larger container and pour hot water into it. This will speed up and strengthen the process.

The etching of the board in the p-repination of the hydrogen is performed as follows: the board is placed in the meadow, on which the tracks are drawn, down to decay products easily descended to the bottom of the tank. So that the reaction passes more evenly, the solution must be slightly stirred from time to time. The whole process takes no more than 10 minutes.

Upon completion of the grass, the fee must be neutralized and rinsed under running water.

This method of processing board is fully safe. You can now make boards at work, and at home, and in the office, and it is not necessary to work with unsafe reagents at the same time.

Important! If the solution is greatly foaming, then the salts you sat too much. Pieces more peroxide, otherwise the reaction will be too active, the tracks may be damaged.

If during the reaction you pull out the board and take a look at it, you will not be able to notice the differences compared to how etching passes pCB In the chlorine gland, they are simply not. The main difference is a rapidly passing reaction and a less dangerous process for a person.

How to understand that the fee has already got caught?

In a hydrogen-acid medium, the reaction passes according to the formula: Cu + H3Cit + H2O2 → H + 2H2O. Etching the printed circuit board in hydrogen peroxide can be considered complete if any reaction stopped in solution: it does not hide and does not bubble.

The finished fee is cleaned and washed with water. Toner or paint erase with acetone. After that, the fee is carefully wiping and degreased.

Important! Check the paths for integrity after processing the board. The damaged scheme will not work.

As you could make sure, etching the hydrogen peroxide fee at home is not only possible, but also safely. It is not difficult to find the necessary components for the preparation of a grassy composition, and the process itself will take no more than 15 minutes. Today, any radio amateur, thanks to simple and accurate advice, will be able to experiment at home without harming himself and others.

To the choice of seedlings, gardeners are often approaching extremely responsible, striving with maximum accuracy to plan landing to obtain from plants maximum benefit. They take into account not only climatic conditions in their region, but also the lighting and features of the soil. However, sometimes the owners of country sites are interested in how to pour a tree to dry quickly. This method, of course, can hardly be considered humane, but sometimes there is no other way out.

For example, if an old tree is located on the site with a barrel diameter of more than 30 cm, but it cannot be cut, since there are other facilities or plants nearby. The only way out in such a situation is to dry wood using special chemicals.

There are many ways to achieve the tree on the site quickly dried. However, the most common of them are those that provide for the use of Chem. Preparations intended for the destruction of plants. And despite the fact how harmful these tools can be, they, however, allow you to fulfill this work as quickly as possible.

More specifically, such chemical methods of destruction of trees are distinguished:

• watering plant tissues with chemical compounds;
• leaf coating with special preparations;
• vaccinations that kill trees;
• premises the drug in the ground near the barrel;
• complete destruction (including stumps);
• application of chemical means on Corra.

Important information! Note that most of the chemicals described below affect the root system of trees. When choosing a specific composition, compulsory consider the composition of the soil. There are evidence that affect the bark or live tissue of plants.

Ideally, the tree should be cut at all, and the remaining stump is properly handled. So you can get rid of the tree as quickly as possible. Be that as it may, to begin with, get acquainted with the most effective means and features of their use.

Popular chemicals for the destruction of trees

If you intend to use chemicals, then you must pick up most suitable option. Below is a list of the most effective (according to dachnikov) of chemicals.

1. Sodium Selitra. As a rule, it is used to destroy stumps, but in our case it should be made not only in the trunk of the tree, but also in the ground. In order to make the required effect as quickly as possible, the sodium salt is desirable to enter into the hollow. For about a year, the tree will dry completely - then it can be burned. And if we water the earth to water this Selutyra, then the tree dries only after several years.

Mikado RK. Clopirald and piclora - systemic substances

Note! A tree is still a living organism, to kill which is necessary exclusively in extreme cases. Do not get drunk this procedure too much.

Now, having familiarized yourself with the main chemicals capable of quickly putting off a tree, consider which processing methods are most popular. Some of these methods provide for the use of those or other drugs described above.

Prices for ammonium Selitra

ammonium nitrate

Main ways to destroy trees chemicals

Immediately agree that there are many such ways, therefore we will consider only the most effective of them.

Method number 1. Drawing chemicals on alive fabrics

The tree bark is an obstacle, due to which herbicides cannot penetrate the vascular tissues of the plant. Therefore, in order for the tool to reach the destination, do downward cuts on the surface of the barrel, but do not break off the bark. Use a small ax for this. As a result, scubons and cuts should be throughout the circumference of the barrel.

The herbicide that you chose, use the cut after the completion of the cuts - apply it on the tissue of wood.

Note! Do not use herbicides in spring time, since the juice that will be frowning from cuts will prevent the impact of the chemical.

Method number 2. Watering soil herbicides

Individual preparations can be used to uniform applying to the surface of the soil. After rain or artificial irrigation, herbicide will fall into the root system. To concentrate the chemical in one place, you can resort to the installation of barriers in the ground (for example, concrete).

Note! This method is advisable to use in cases where you simultaneously need to destroy several or many trees.

Method number 3. "Kill" injections

They are very close on the principle of their action to the method number 1, and differ only in the fact that special devices are used to make chemicals in tissue. The maximum efficiency of the methods is achieved if it is point to affect the trunk circle in 5-10 cm increments. Injections are made at a height of about 1 m from the ground. The method is used for trees, the diameter of the trunk of which exceeds 5 cm.

Step 1. First, prepare the drill, as well as the drill to it, the diameter of which is 5-10 mm.

Step 2. Put the holes in a depth of 4-5 cm as described above. It is important that the drill during operation is at an angle of 45-50 ° relative to the surface of the Earth.

Step 3. Take a simple pharmacy syringe, fill it with an active substance of which is glyphosate (for example, "high", "Tornado", etc.), or, as an option, pour the chemical right into the holes. The concentration of glyphosate in the medium should be at least 200 g / l.

Herbicide "Grand"

For example: To put a tree, the diameter of the trunk of which is 35 cm, it will take 35-40 ml of the means in which the concentration of glyphosate is 360 g / l.

Step 4. Get out the holes of the Earth in order to conceal the traces of injections, remove the chips and see if the drug does not follow (the latter is good because it will dry and perfectly visible on the crust). Surely soon the plant will begin to dry.

Note! You can use other herbicides, but the preference is still better to give drugs with glyphosate, since they immediately inactivates the soil microflora after the root system dies.

Heavier herbicides based on sulfomethomon-methyl or IMAZAPIR, on the contrary, after the death of trees penetrate the ground and often kill plants located nearby. Although you can take care of the barriers described earlier.

Method number 4. Treatment of leaves drugs

This method is very popular in the destruction of shrubs whose height does not exceed 4 m. It can be used in the period from the beginning of spring until the end of the summer (more accurate time depends on a particular herbicide). The effectiveness of drugs is noticeably reduced, if the weather is dry and hot, and the tree suffers from moisture deficit.

If we apply drugs on the leaves of crops, distinguished by a large annual increase, this may lead to the appearance of excessive stones (exceptions are except for individual extremely susceptible species). If you use this method, it is not necessary to impregnate chemicals.

Method number 5. Simultaneous destruction of the trunk and stump

Here, at the beginning, the tree itself is removed by means of an ax or chainsaws, and then chemical. Removing stump (more detailed about it - at the end of the article). If you use this method, then apply herbicide only on fresh stump. If the diameter of the barrel is large, processed only the outer edge of the stump (no more than 5-10 cm), including Cambius - the inner fabrics of such trees are mostly eliminated.

If the diameter of the trunk is less than 10 cm, apply the chemical on the entire surface of the cut. Use the drug immediately after the tree cut - so effectiveness will be maximum.

Method number 6. Treatment of tree bark

Measure 30-35 cm from the surface of the Earth, make a mark on the trunk and process the section below this chemical mark. It is advisable to conduct an event in spring or summer. Before applying, mix the tool with oil, then process the bark until it is not so impregnated. Which is characteristic, this method is applicable to all trees, and no matter what kind they do and what sizes have.

Work on cleaning the greenhouses begin with cleaning from garbage and washing the design. And the first stages are held before the start of frosts. Read more about it in more detail.

Prices for herbicides

herbicides

Below are given useful advicethat will help you with the destruction of an unwanted tree.

1. A man destroying trees with chemicals is fully responsible for the final effect.
2. Remember that processing accuracy can be enhanced if you add a staining substance to herbicide. The trees after such a processing are much easier to track, therefore, you are unlikely to miss them during re-processing (if necessary).
3. Tree can "try" cuts and damage, thereby protecting themselves. In other words, a protective layer is formed around damaged tissues capable of reduce the effectiveness of the drug used. For this reason, when using Method No. 1, the chemical should be applied immediately after cutting.

Note! It is believed that on the east side, the root system grows to the height of the crown, while with Western - on ½ of this height. You can take advantage of this empirical rule.

Alternative methods

There are also several alternative ways to make it so that the tree is quickly dried. Consider the most efficient, and therefore popular from them. For convenience of visitors, the information below is given in the form of a table.

Table. What else can you handle the tree so that it is dried.

Note! By the way, if the roots block the sewage pipeline, you can use the root destroyer tool (if you can find it), which you just need to wash in the toilet. So you will kill only the roots that penetrate the network, but do not harm the tree.

When the tree dries out, it is cut and burned. But after that, roots remain in the ground, which can also deliver a lot of trouble. Below is a small manual for mechanical removal of stumps.

Video - how to remove stump chemical way

Removal of part of the surface layer of the metal product with a chemical reaction is called etching. This technology is known for a person for several millennia, along with chasing and black, it was used to finish metal parts of weapons and home utensils, jewelry and ritual items. Nowadays, metals are used in art fishery, for applying electroplating coatings, to create images and inscriptions on metal products.

The essence of the method

Before carrying out etching on those areas of the metal surface, which should not be etched, a protective coating is applied, resistant to an etching substance (actuator).

Next, the part is exposed to an acidic medium or immersed in a container with electrolytic liquid. The longer the part is processed, the larger layer of the metal is extended by an aggressive medium. Metal etching can be carried out in several techniques, this is the so-called multi-layer etching.

The etching of images on metal is carried out both in industrial and at home.

Metal etching methods

Based on the metal of materials used to separate the metal layer, such methods of etching metals are distinguished as:

• Chemical (liquid). Acid solutions are used. Does not require complex equipment and expensive materials. During the work, harmful evaporation is formed.
• Electrochemical. The electrolyte solution is used and passed through it. electricity. It is characterized by a greater speed of the process, more accurate design of the drawing parts, economically spending the working fluid. Does not forms harmful evaporation
• Ion-plasma (dry). The surface layer is evaporated with a bunch of ionized plasma. It is used in the production of microelectronic components.

The ion-plasma method requires high-precision and expensive equipment and is applied only in the conditions of industrial production. Liquid method, electrochemical etching of metal and even electrochemical engraving are available at home.

With the help of galvanic etching, you can independently make a printed circuit board, practically not inferior to industrial.

Galvanic etching of metal

The galvanic method of etching is beneficial from the liquid absence of the need to use acids that give harmful evaporation. Depending on the material of the workpiece, different electrolytic solutions are used:

• Steel and iron - ammonia and iron vigor
• Copper and her alloys (bronze, brass) - copper
• Zinc - zinc vigor.

For the process at home will need:

• Galvanic bath from non-conductive material.
• Power supply for 5 volts of DC.
• Metal cathode (from the same metal as the workpiece.)
• Wire suspensions for the workpiece and cathode. The billet should not touch the walls or bottom of the bath.
• Two conducting rods, superior to the bath length.

One rod is attached to the negative output of the power supply and hang cathode on it.

Another barbell is to a positive conclusion and hang on it the product that will serve as an anode.

When the voltage is supplied, the process of electrolytic metal transfer from the product to the cathode begins. It will occur from the sections of the surface not covered with protective varnish.

Metal etching

Artistic etching of the metal is carried out both galvanic and liquid method.

Masters of folk crafts and just homemade craftsmen get highly artistic images on cold and firearms, all kinds of wrought and cast utensils. For masters that make copyright hunting and household knives, etching has become a practically mandatory element of the finish. Especially popular hunting scenes, Arab, Runic or abstract - geometric ornaments. Many masters combine the etching of the metal with his binding, giving the drawing bluish, black or yellowish tint.

To transfer images, they use both the method of covering the parts of varnish and glossy paper. Another method is also used - the salary of the piece of scotch. The hot needle pumps the drawing lines, after which the tweezers carefully remove the tape from the areas to be drank. The remnants of the adhesive mass must be washed with a solvent.

Before etched, the part should be carefully degreed.

Preparation of metal surface

Before starting etching, the surface should be prepared. This will ensure:

• High speed process
• removal of metal with a smooth layer.

During the processing of the surface, all mechanical and chemical contaminants are removed from it. It is used for it a warm soap solution, and any detergent is suitable. After drying the surface, it should be wiped with a rag, impregnated with solvent or degreaser. This will remove the residues of the liquid and oil films.

Chemical processing is well combined with mechanical:

• polishing to mirror
• grinding sandpaper. It is used if the polishing is not available. You should trace the skin all the time moved in one direction and traces from it were strictly parallel

Mechanical processing will improve significantly appearance Products after etching.

Application of drawing

For this operation, several ways are applied. All of them unites general principle: Protection of a part of the surface from the corrosive action of the drive, and distinguishes the substance used to apply the pattern.

Nail polish

Popular I. available way. Has some disadvantages:

• The high viscosity of the varnish does not make it possible for drawing small parts and thin lines.
• Requires a hard hand and drawing skill.
• It is very difficult to correct erroneously applied details.

Primer or bitumen varnish

Used primer GF 021, 1222 or bitumen varnish. First, the substance covers all the rinted product. Next, the contour of the pattern is then carried by a thin handle or marker. From a thin wire or a rod from soft alloys, make a needle, sharpening the end of the wire.

Those areas of the image that must be etched are scratched to metal. It should be followed that the primer does not rock.

Glossy paper

In addition to glossy paper (it can be bought in stores of goods for creativity, and you can simply cut a sheet from the log), you will need a laser printer, an application for working with images and an iron. The image of the picture should be made mirror and print in full size. The image is applied to the surface and stroke several times. After cooling the workpiece, paper is washed with warm water, and the toner remains on the surface of the part. Back and side surfaces that are not subject to dreville, need to be protected by varnish or plasticine.

The main advantage of the method - you can accurately transfer the smallest details of the image.

The main drawback is to work in this way only with flat or cylindrical blanks. The method is very popular in the manufacture of printed circuit boards.

Etching steel

In addition to the artistic etching of the metal, allowing to obtain exquisite images on steel surfaces, etching steel is used to remove scale and oxide films. At the same time, it should be particularly thoroughly comply with the requirements of the technological process in everything, which is associated with the concentration of divestream solutions and the exposure time of the part in the apparatus or in the electrolyte bath. Overhaul during such an operation is extremely undesirable.

When etched steel, both liquid and electrochemical method are used. The drive is prepared on the basis of potent acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfur. Special attention should be paid to careful degreasing surface. The skipped oil or fat stain can lead the workpiece into disrepair. To protect the parts of the workpiece that are not subject to etching, using varnishes based on rosin, turpentine, tar.

These components are easily flammable, so during work with varnish it is necessary to sell particularly attentive and careful. Upon completion of etching, unpoptered areas of the workpiece are purified by a solvent protective varnish.

Drives used for steel

Large popular among homemade masters - theratic acids uses nitric acid. It is used both the only basis for the drive and in the mixture with a wine-eyed or salt. The solution for etching a metal based on a mixture of nitrogen and hydrochloric acid has very high chemical activity, and it should be extremely careful.

For the processing of solid and special varieties of steel, mixtures of nitrogen and acetic acid are used. Processing is carried out in two stages. First, a special prerength is prepared - glyphogen, which is a mixture of water, nitric acid and ethyl alcohol. In it, the detail is kept for a few minutes. Next, the workpiece is washed with a solution of wine alcohol in distilled water and thoroughly dried. After that, conduct basic riff.

For etching castors, solutions of sulfuric acid of medium concentrations are used.

Etching non-ferrous metals

Based on their atomic weight and the physicochemical properties determined by them, for each metal and alloy are selected by their the best way acting on him, drive.

Both clean copper and copper alloys are etched using sulfur, hydrochloric, phosphoric, nitric acid. To increase the reaction rate, chromium or nitrogen compounds are added to the solutions. At the first stage of etching from the workpiece, the scale and oxide film are removed, then they are moving actually to the etching of the metal. When etching copper at home, caution should be taken.

Aluminum and alloys based on it are allocated among other metals by the fact that they are not acidic, and alkaline solutions. For molybdenum, alkaline solutions based on caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide are also used.

Titan is still a big mansion - at the first stage of pre-routing apply alkali, and on the main one - already acid. For titanium, we use the strongest acids - plumbing and concentrated sulfur and nitric. Titanium blanks are riveted to remove the surface layer of oxides immediately before applying a galvanic coating.

For etching of metals such as nickel or tungsten, aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide and formic acid is used.

Pipeline etching

The printed boiler is a sheet of textolite, with one or two sides covered with a layer of copper foil. The purpose of etching printed circuit boards is to create conductive copper foil tracks in accurately according to the drawing. The tracks are covered with protective varnish, the rest of the foil is removed by etching.

At home applies several ways:

1. Chlorine iron. The reagent is acquired in the chemical goods store or do it yourself. In hydrochloric acid, iron sawdust should be dissolved. Before use, the solution should be withstanding to completely dissolve iron and mix thoroughly.
2. Nitric acid.
3. An aqueous solution of sulfuric acid mixed with table hydrogen peroxide.
4. Copper vigor with adding hot water and sodium chloride. This option is the safest, but also the longest. Throughout the process, the drevy temperature should be maintained at least 40 ° C, otherwise the etching stretches for many hours.
5. Electrolytic method. You should take a dielectric container (cuvettes are well suited for the technique of photographs), fill it with a solution of cook salt, put a fee and a piece of copper foil, which will serve as a cathode.

Upon completion of the etching, the liquid fee should be thoroughly rinsed with soda solution to repay the residues of the acid.

Etching process for other materials

In addition to metals, etching operations are subjected to other materials. Most often occurs the rigge of glass with decorative goals. The etching is carried out in plastic acid pairs, the only can dissolve glass. At the preparation stages, a preliminary acid polishing of the product surface is carried out, then the contour of the future image is translated into it. Protective coatings for glass are made from a mixture of wax, rosin and paraffins. After applying the protective coating, the workpiece is dipped into the etching container.

The use of platform acid creates a beautiful matte structure on the surface. To obtain a smooth, transparent surface, concentrated sulfuric acid is added to the dranching mixture. To obtain a relief, deep pattern, the operation is repeated.

Safety in etching

Metal etching uses extremely active in chemical relation Strong acid substances, alkalis and their solutions. With incorrect circulation, they can cause serious harm to health and cause significant material damage.

Therefore, when working with them, special precautions must be observed and strictly implement the safety regulations during the work:

• Works are carried out only if there is good ventilation, preferably the exhaust cabinet.
• Be sure to use personal protective equipment: rubber gloves and apron, dense manufacturing clothes, respirator, protective facial shield.
• You can not put banks with acids and alkalis on highly located shelves and cabinets.
• During acid dilution, acid is poured into water, and never - water in acid.
• When working with acid, there is a solution of soda at hand, and when working with alkali - a weak acetic solution for washing the skin of the skin, which accidentally hit the drop drops.
• When working with a galvanic method, before starting work, carefully inspect all the electrical equipment used for the absence of mechanical damage and integrity of isolation.
• Have a good fire extinguisher at hand.

In the event of a pool solution from entering the skin, it is necessary to immediately wash the affected area with the corresponding neutralizing solution. If the spray of acid or alkali fell on clothes - it should be removed immediately.

If the etching solution hit the mucous membranes - it is necessary to immediately seek medical help. Delegation in such cases may cost health or even life.

Select the image you want to raise on steel. You can draw an image from the hand or reproduce the existing image on the steel surface. Depending on the image transfer method you choose, you may need either a very simple pattern or quite complicated.

• If you plan to reproduce an existing pattern, then choose something with a high contrast of black and white.
• If you plan to do and sell the prints of your etched patterns, select an image with public access or get permission from copyright owner if they exist.

Translate your pattern to the steel surface. You can translate the pattern one of the following methods. However, keep in mind that regardless of the transfer method, it will turn out to be a reverse image obtained by etching on steel. If you plan to use a plate with an etched pattern exclusively as an ornament, and not to print with it, it will not have values \u200b\u200bfor you.

• The oldest method of translating images is to apply a coating from a liquid varnish or a wax-like substance (for example, bee wax), or even enamel paint or nail polish. Such a coating is called soil. You can scratch your image right on the ground using needles or cutting tools. (This process resembles a wood thread.) The soil will serve as a resist, insulating the action of the tortive acid, the steel sections covered them.
• Another method is to cover the surface steel traces of permanent markers in those places that you do not want to rinse. To determine the best resist, you will have to experiment with several permanent markers of various brands and colors.
• The third method is to create a stencil that transferred to steel with the help of iron, or photocopying the picture on the transfer paper, or print it on the glossy photograph of the laser printer. Put the paper on the surface became the image down and put it on the high temperature to the iron smoothes it with smooth circular motions for 2-5 minutes. (If you use the transfer paper, then press it carefully, and if you use the photo paper, then press the iron with strength.) After that you can remove the paper. (The transfer paper will be sampled by itself, and to remove photographic paper, it is necessary to put it in the tray with hot water For softening.) The translated inks will become a resist for coarse acid.

The Radio Technology for the manufacture of printed circuit boards at home consists of several stages.

Drawing pattern.

Solution for etching.

Etching.

1. Drawing the drawing using a laser printer.

Preparing the drawings of the printed circuit board.

Manually conveniently performing a drawing of a printed circuit board on a scale of 1: 1 on paper from the checkers (has a cell with a side of 2.5 mm, in the "Silent" of the chip), if there is no one, then you can "open" school paper "into a cell" with a decrease in 2 In the most extreme case, you can use the usual millimeter. The pathways from the soldering should be drawing with solid lines, and the tracks from the part side (in the case of two-way installation) draw dashed lines. It should be noted that the disposable elements must be in mirror reflection. The centers of the elements legs are marked with points around which it is necessary to draw a platform area. For follow-up, it is very important that the size you choose the installation sites for items (it's a shame when when drawing a "live" or track between the playgrounds does not pass, or after soldering, the elements fall out with the players). The width of the tracks should be chosen on the basis of what you will draw a fee when using glass raysfederes about 1.5 mm. After the drawing is ready, you need to apply the drawing to the luminous surface (for example, the window of the window) with the opposite side to yourself and circle dashed lines. So you will get a drawing from the installation of parts. Next, it is necessary to cut a paper sheet drawing, but taking into account the "wings" for fasteners on each side (about 15 mm).

Preparation of fiberglass and drilling.

Cut in the size of the drawing a piece of fiberglass. Remove bursavires with a file. Take the drawing on the fee, maintain the edges of the paper and secure them on the reverse side of the scotch or (preferably) insulating tape. Next, the drilling process is performed. Yes, yes, right through the drawing and without a cucknation. Important condition That the drill does not behave, is his "freshness". However, it is possible to wait for a specific drill, you can understand, drill a test hole on some trimming of a fiberglass. The best solution to this problem is the presence of an appropriate drilling machine, even be self-made. If the "Motor with a drill" is used, as a rule, better future holes "Land". All holes, including fasteners, are drilled by one (smallest) diameter. Next, it is necessary to check the drilling on the "clearance" as it will necessarily have uncrowded holes. Release After that, the drawing of the board is very neatly removed from the fiberglass (the danger represents burstages from drilling). Next, the diversion of the fasteners and the rest, large in diameter, holes.

After the operations produced, the surface of the surface of the board shallow skin is cleaned. This process is necessary to remove burstages from drilling and for better clutch paint drawing with a surface. If possible, do not touch the surface of the surface with your fingers so that there are no fat imprints. After stripping, it is necessary to degrease the board with the help of alcohol (as a last resort acetone, but ensure that there are no white powdered divorces remain. After that, you can only touch the end surfaces.

Drawing pattern.

As for the paint applied and the technology of applying tracks in their circles, we, of course, argued a lot, but I stopped on the described below. Drawing is made by a nitrocracy, with a rosin powder dissolved in it (applies for some time after drying, the plasticity for the adjustment and does not give the paint "fall behind" in the case of hot solutions). Drawing is made by glass raysfooters (which in our time is very problematic). In addition, it is possible to use as paint, asphalt-bique varnish, dissolved to the desired condition by xylene. Bottles are enough for a long time. It is possible to manufacture the raysfeders yourself, with the corresponding training session, of course. To do this, you can take a thin-wing glass tube and stretching on the flame (above gas stove) To break it in the middle. Then the broken tip "bring" on the fine grinding skirt. Next, warming over the same flame, bend the tip to the desired angle. Complicated!? Actually no more than 5 minutes. You can also use for drawing and disposable syringes. Varnish is recruited into a disposable syringe (1-2 ml) and a thin needle is put. The needle is needed to handle the needle before installing, so that the edges were smooth (remove the sharp end). From the side of the piston, you can insert one more needle for air pass inside the syringe.

Before you start drawing a printed circuit track, you need to draw the mounting sites for soldering the elements. They are applied using a glass racing or sharp match around each hole, a diameter of about 3 mm. Next you need to give them to dry. After that, it is necessary to trim them with a circulation to the desired diameter (I use a small circular meter with a threaded lock of the distance (yes forgive me this expressions of drawers - professionals, never knew his real name), one of the needles of which is sharpened under a flat cutter). Next, the cropped excess is screwed up with a sewer or scalpel. In fact, I use for these procedures a recycled school ready. As a result, smooth rounds of one diameter are obtained, which remains only to connect the tracks, according to the previously drawn the drawing of the printed circuit board. Next, after drying, the second side is drawn. After that, tracks and errors are adjusted using a scalpel. Moreover, it should be noted to align the track of the tracks, you must first cut the edge along the line (better metallic), and then remove the excess with scratching. If you run the track at once, depending on the degree of dyeing paint, you can get "chips" even worse than the initial. Check the pattern matching on the board with a pattern in the drawing.

Production of a grassy substance.

There are various compositions for etching, foil material in the manufacture of printed circuit boards.

Recipe number 1.

For forced (for 4-6 min) etching, one can use the following composition (in bulk parts): 38% hydrochloric acid with a density of 1.19 g / cm 3, 30% peroxide (peroxide) hydrogen-perhydrol. If hydrogen peroxide will have a concentration of 16-18%, then 40 parts of the oxide per oxide and as much water are taken by 20 parts of the acid. First, the peroxide is mixed with water, and then acid is added. Printing conductors and contact pads should be protected by acid-resistant paint, for example, NC-11 nitroemal.

Recipe number 2.

In glass cold water 4-6 hydrogen peroxide tablets are dissolved and 15-25 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid are taken carefully. To apply the pattern of the printed circuit board on foil material, you can use glue BF-2. The etching time in this solution is approximately 1 h.

Recipe number 3.

In 500 ml of hot (approximately 80 ° C) water dissolves four tablespoons of a cook salt to two spoons of extractive powder copper Kaper. The solution acquires a dark green color. Ready to use immediately after cooling (with heat-resistant paint, see above, optionally). The solution is enough to remove 200 cm 3 foil. The etching time is about 8 hours. If the pattern of the printed circuit board is made sufficiently heat-resistant paint or varnish, the temperature of the solution can be touched by about 50 ° C, and then the intensity of etching will increase.

Recipe number 4.

Solve 350 g of chromic anhydride in 1 liter of hot water (60-70 ° C), then 50 g of the cooking salt * is added. After the solution cools, proceed to etching. Terminal time 20-60 min. If you add 50 g of concentrated sulfuric acid into the solution, then the etching will be more intense.

Recipe number 5.

In 200 ml of warm water dissolve 150 g of chlorine iron in the powder.

Preparation of chlorine iron.

If there is no chlorine iron in the finished form (in powder), then it can be prepared. To do this, it is necessary to have 9% hydrochloric acid and small iron sawdust. On 25 volume parts of the acid take one piece of iron sawdust. Sawders fall asleep into an open vessel with acid and leave for several days. At the end of the reaction, the solution becomes light green, and after 5-6 days the color changes to the yellow-brown-solution of chlorine iron is ready for use. For the preparation of chlorine iron, you can use the powdered iron sucr. At the same time, one bulk part of the concentrated hydrochloric acid requires 1.5-2 parts of the turret. Components are mixed in glassware, adding a surr in small portions. After the cessation of a chemical reaction, a precipitate and a chlorine iron solution drops to the bottom. Ready for use

Etching and handling of the board.

The etching must be produced in plastic (photo of the cuvette) or porcelain (plate) dishes. If the board is small, it is convenient to run in a plate. The deep plate is chosen so that the fee does not lie down completely on the bottom, and the corners relied on the walls of the plate. Then between the board and the bottom there will be a space filled with solution. During etching, the fee must be turned over and stirred. If you need to quickly go to a fee, warm the solution up to 50-70 degrees. If the board is large, then insert matches in the fasteners (at the corners) so that they protrude 5-10 mm on both sides. You can insert a copper wire, but then there will be a greater saturation of the solution with copper. Tours in the photo Kuvette, stirring and turning the board. Working with chlorine iron solution must be careful. The solution is almost impossible to wash off clothing and items. When entering the skin, rinse with soda solution. The porcelain plate is easily washed away from the solution and can be applied in the future in direct intended. At the end of etching, drain the solution in plastic bottleHe's still useful for you. Wash feet in cold running water. Under a fine jet of water, remove the lacquer with a safe blade (count). The dried fee must be resurrected by the scalpel from unnecessary connections and a vague varnish. If the tracks are close to each other, then you can expand the scalpel clearance. After that, the board is once again processed by small skirt.

Logging board.

You can not write about the utility of this procedure. Otherwise, you can stop on the previous one. Next, the surface of the board is covered with a brush liquid rosin flux. The logging is performed by the wires peeled with a tinted braid (white). Pre-braid is impregnated with rosin and in small quantities (you can of course and the rose alloy, but it is already exotic). Further, the braid is pressed against the surface of the path with the soldering iron and slowly evenly (it is selected experimentally) is carried out along the length of the track. If all the conditions are performed correctly, then as a result you will get a flat white tinted path. After all the paths on all sides are processed, the rinsing of the board with alcohol. Flushing with acetone is undesirable, since solder with acetone gives a conductive chemical compound in the form of a white plaque along the edges of the sites and tracks, and with sufficient installation density there is a risk of unnecessary electroplating ties. After washing, a drilling (cleaning) of the holes for the installation of P / components is carried out.

Board ready for installation.

Prints with a laser printer.

Extra popular popularity in radio amateurs is becoming a way to manufacture single printed circuit boards with a picture transfer from print on a laser printer. Print best on thin coated paper - there is less vault in it, good result It turns out on the sheets of the magazine "Stereo & Video", as well as substrates "Self-proteins" and a thermal paper for faxes (to choose experimentally). In laser printers, turn on the maximum toner feed mode (disable "economical" mode, if it is turned on, the contrast is maximum, etc.), as well as use a path with a minimum paper bend (such an option is in old HP LJ 2 models , LJ4, etc.). The card drawing should be "cranked", this option is available in the print menu of many graphic programs, such as Corel Draw, Corel Photo Paint, and when printing from programs that cannot "mirror" must be applied to postscript printers, the sequence option from which is available in the driver. Instead of output, photocopying can be used on the laser printer, but also in mode with maximum contrast and to the thermal paper from faxes. In the manufacture of two-layer printed circuit boards to reduce the paper shrimp, the latest is recommended before printing the image "Run" through the printer is frightened (without a picture of the drawing). In addition, both sides should be on one sheet to avoid strong mismatch due to a different paper shrimp. Skilled fee falls copper up on a flat surface, top view toner fingerprint. This "sandwich" on the side of the paper is pressed with an iron (seconds of 20 - 30), heated to the ironing temperature (ask the ladies). The iron must melt the image made by the laser printer, not immediately. That is, the toner at such a temperature should be made of solid viscous, but not liquid. When the board cools, it needs to be omitted in warm water, to hold there for several minutes. How paper will be decking (it will be visible), everything will easily deteriorate, the rest just roll with your finger. Instead of water, remove paper with sulfuric acid. If the tracks are blurred, you have accuratedly removed the iron or put the cold cargo. If there are no paths somewhere, the iron is too cold. If the tracks have become wide, the iron is too hot, or too long raged fees. If the board is double-sided, then first the lumen combines paper printouts of both sides, two technological holes are pierced in any free opposite places, the first side of the board "strokes" as usual, then drills on the technological holes of a thin drill, and on the other hand, on them The clearance is combined with a paper printing of the other side. You can also ride with chlorine iron (to accelerate a little warm), and a hydro-hydrohydrate. All this was used even on Ghetinakse, there are no deletions of the tracks, the tracks are normal up to 0.8 mm wide, and with some experiment and up to 0.5 mm. After etching, the toner is removed by acetone, bow of nail polish or Flux OFF aerosol. Dries, cuts and so on, as usual ...

Another way to apply the pattern on the p / n using a laser printer.

Production of P / P using a laser printer and an iron process is quite tedious, but gives a pretty good result if a little is taken out.

1 . Carefully glue a fax paper sheet (glossy side up) on a sheet of usual (to compensate for the lack of fax stiffness). What for? It is necessary to pre-strike the paper of the C / W, the printer / laser stove - for shrinkage. For a relaxing pulling a h / s tract, there is enough thermal paper just to try the iron with a sensitive side.
2 . Paper - Take the basis from self-keys, or a thermal paper for a fax definitely a thermal paper, and prepared - first of the sheets to turn down a hot iron to a flat state (at the same time they will become dark brown, then bluish gray), in such a form to fold them for future use. Before the fee withdrawal, you will drive a sheet of h / s printer - nr, printing an empty page. The minimum sheet size is ~ 6 * 12 cm for HP 5 / 6L.
3 . Print - at maximum fatness, mirror. Printing and translating to the workpiece can be with a difference before the week, I have not tried anymore (this is for those who have no laser house).
4 . Billet take with a reserve of 3-5 mm on each side. Foil is slightly sanding with zero and rub. There should not be any harmful lines such as white sediment from denaturates. I use isopropyl alcohol or gasoline "Kalosh" (AKA "for lighters").
5 . Iron - with a normal, smooth surface. Heat in advance. Temperature - For the removal, it is necessary to pick up more carefully (I have a decanter on the "Slach"), otherwise the impregnation will begin to be transferred. For thermal paper - can be higher.
6 . Dust and any little things - should not be nor on foil, nor on paper.
7 . Make a sandwich - on a flat thick faeer (though, I have a 3-millimeter) put a piece of tight cardboard, the workpiece of the board, blow away the dust, drawing, for thermal paper (it is thin) - also a piece of tight paper, hot iron.
8 . You begin to organize iron, pressing with the power of ~ 5..10 kg / sq. MD. The flip of the minute two to grabbing.
9 . Very slightly tilt the iron, you press individual tracks for a couple of minutes. It is very important and not to crush the tracks, and when you welcome them. From time to time it is necessary to lower the iron to the entire plane, so that the rest is not cooled. The thermobum is clearly seen to the difference in welded and defective slices.
10 . Well, we smooth another minute to clean the conscience and remove the iron. The sandwich cools and the pieces of paper between the tracks are swept away. The cooling is not waiting, the board is immediately under the jet of steep boiling water.
11 . Now the fee is under a stream of water and a piece of wet foam you begin to wash paper. Large pieces or with dry foil, it is impossible to skitter. From a foam rubber need to clean the lumps of paper. We take the paper over the corner and tear. Already then with a finger / rag / foam rubber removal residues.
12 . A new piece of sponge is erased by a pile (how much it turns out), you look a wet drawing under the magnifying glass. If there are many defects, or they are located in uncomfortable places - see Clause 1, with variations of parameters.
13 . The opposite side, take the strips of wide scotch, strands. You can even in boiling FECL3

Method for applying a pattern on p / n using a laser printer

I do everything much easier:
I take the workpiece and a simple Soviet kneon. Konter carefully wipe the whole fee. All oxidations are removed. It is possible to wipe for just in case and gasoline (but I do not do this, the rod is quite enough). Then I take a thermal paper from the fax and ironing it. It becomes gray-violet. I insert this paper into the printer (I have HP 6L and no paper for stiffening I do not stick, I have never flashed yet) and mirror printing fee. I put the paper on the p / p and start chosen the iron. My power is 3/4 from maximum power. Ironing minutes 3-4. Then throw a blank in hot-warm water And I am waiting for about 5 minutes to risks a paper. Then I roll with sponge or fingers with a paper from the board. Do not take over the edge of the paper and do not jump it, the tracks can break down with the paper! Just roll it from the board. Next - Kerny, drill, cut and hurt. And the fee is ready.