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Making high-quality printed circuit boards in "home" conditions. How to make circuit boards: Tekhnotech plant

Answers to gardeners

The practice of design and installation directly associated with electronics, does not cost without the main part - the circuit board. The initial development of some electronic device, of course, is permissible using mounted mounting. However, a full-fledged printed circuit board will still have to do if we are talking about a serious electronic device. There are two options: order the manufacture of a printed circuit board in the service or make a printed circuit board with your own hands at home. The first option requires solid financial investments and two or three weeks of waiting. The second does not require anything but personal desire, a piece of foil textolite and a small amount of chlorine iron.

Sheet textolitol, one or both sides of a thin layer of copper, is traditionally used to make printed electronic circuit boards.

Usually a hard basis with a layout of electronic circuits under the soldering of electronic parts is the priorities of a specialized manufacturing sphere.

However, the construction of electronics for personal needs and in small copies looks more rationally when the production technology "searches" is available in the conditions of life.

This is the result of the work it is quite possible to get at home, using simple accessible tools, tools, materials

If you master all the subtleties of production and stock necessary materialThis is not excluded for the manufacture of printed circuit boards at home, if not on an industrial scale, so in quantities sufficient for business.

There are several drawing technologies and etching miniature tracks on a foil textolite. Starting from the method of a simple drawing of the electronic scheme with nail polish with subsequent chemical etching, and ending with automatic laser wiring and micron sharp.

However, for home conditions, a special technique is required - effective, but at the same time budget and relatively simple.

Production of printed circuit boards at home

Here - as part of a kind tutorialis considered using the toner transfer technology with a laser printer.

This method has long been designed, but still accompanied by a mass of new tips and techniques, thanks to which efficiency is only rising.

What will required a homemade electronics?

  • design Development Program,
  • laser printer,
  • any glossy magazine
  • iron household
  • one or two plastic containers
  • small brush or toothbrush,
  • latex gloves,
  • ferric chloride,
  • foil textolitol.

Almost all components of the list can be found in the household. An exception is: chlorine iron and textolite with foil.


Two material: iron chloride and foil textolite that will need to buy. Everything else is usually available among items and household materials.

These two points of the list are closed through a visit to the radio electronic store or radio market. Such outlets There are in any average in the magnitude of the settlement. As a last resort, you can order both components via the Internet.

Meanwhile, the chlorine iron is quite replaced by another chemical obtained on the basis of a mixture of copper sulphate (MK) and a conventional table salt (PS). The mixture is made in the ratio of 1 part of the MK on 2 parts of the PS, divorced in 0.5 liters of boiling water.

Usually, it is enough to make 4 tablespoons of MK and 2 tablespoons of the PS on the size of the electronic circuit board. Spanged boiling water powder mixture thoroughly stir and give to settle.

The only difference between such a solution from FECL 3 is a slightly increased etching time. But on the other hand, the mixture on the copper vigor is safer than FECL 3. Copper Kuner (Powder) is available in any economic store.

Creating a printed circuit board design

To create a design of the PP drawing, the computer program "KiCAD" is optimal - a professional means of drawing electronic printed circuit boards, but at the same time free.

The KiCAD software provides a user with a brush routing function, making it easy to breed differential pairs, to interactively set up the trace length.


The working window of the KiCAD program is a wiring professional, without which it does not do in the process of manufacturing a printed circuit board. Software applies for free

Using the scheme editor without restrictions. There is an extensive library of circuit symbolism. Also, the built-in scheme editor allows, without any difficulty learn work with projects.

All that is drawn by the program in red belongs to the front surface. Lines of yellow color, is a pattern of the reverse side of the printed circuit board.

The created drawing must be exported to PDF format. To do this, KiCad has a "plot" tool. Using "plot", you should select a mirror image.

Print Wiring Drawing on Printer

After receiving the PPP file in the PDF format, you need to print the project on the laser printer. To perform this operation, the page of any glossy magazine will suit.

The page is inserted into the laser printer. Along with the magazine, it is permissible to apply conventional glossy paper. Do not worry about already existing images on the magazine page. They will not interfere.


Toner imprint on the magazine glossy page. As can be seen from the drawing, the print quality is quite high. The same trace should work on the foil of the printed circuit board.

The presence factor of third-party images does not have any influence on the process. The drawing of the printer toner in any case remains on the glossy surface of the magazine page (paper). And this is exactly the result you want to get.

Preferably twice (on two different pages) to print to make sure that the printed drawing has no stains, smears, other defects.

Wiring transfer from printer on foil

If the trace of the printed circuit board is qualitatively issued by the laser printer, the glossy page of the log with the resulting print should be carefully removed from the printer and placed the pattern down on the copper surface of the textolite.


Heat treatment PCB with the help of an ordinary economic iron. Heating temperature - maximum. Otherwise, the quality of the transfer suffers

The armed sole of the iron is pressed the magazine sheet with a printed layout of the circuit to the surface of the foil textolite. Heathe iron on a sheet without movements for about 30 seconds.

Next, it is necessary smooth circular movements to smooth out the iron surface of the sheet for 2-3 minutes. During this period of time, thermal processing, toner tightly sticks to the copper coating of the textolite.


The result of the transfer of toner output from the magazine page to the copper coating of the textolite. It looks no worse than the option of industrial manufacture

The completion of the process of transferring the print on the copper foil of the textolite is the removal of the glued sheet of the log. It requires patience and accuracy.

Textolite from glued paper bath with cold waterwhere you need to put the object being processed.

Water softens paper than the full removal of paper fibers is ensured. The toner remains on the textolite.

So, the drawing of the compound scheme is applied to the textolit. You can proceed to the next part of the process - etching excess copper.


Etching copper in chlorine iron solution. Chemical contents of iron chloride is dangerous. Therefore, protective accessories should be applied.

This requires a chlorine iron solution, flooded in plastic bath Suitable sizes.

Attention! Iron chloride solution is hazardous chemistry.

Must be carried out by etching inside a well-ventilated room. Protective accessories - Rubber gloves and glasses are also required.

The printed circuit board is recommended to be equipped with a thread stretched through the hole dried in the free corner of the workpiece. This accessory will allow periodically a blank from a solution to control. Or you can use plastic tweezers.

The average etching time with chlorine glands is about 20-25 minutes. True, the specific value of time depends largely on the size of the workpiece and the amount of copper that is required to be identified.

As soon as copper-free copper will be etched, the printed circuit board must be removed from the solution and put in the dishes with running water.


Thorough flushing of the finished product is necessary. If the surface remains surplus of iron chloride, there is a risk of laying damage

The remaining solution of iron chloride should be pouring out of the bath in hermetic plastic container and tightly close the lid. This solution is permissible to use repeatedly.

The etched printed circuit board should be thoroughly rinsed with water using soaps. Next, it will only be left to clean the copper tracks of the printed circuit board, preserved integers under the layer of toner.

Here the same fine-grained skin or metal mesh is applicable. After cleaning, the printed fee is cut into the desired size, the faces are aligned with small rashpil. That's all - the electronic printed circuit board is ready.

In this way, it is available to prepare directly at home different electronic complexity printed circuit boards, including double-sided.

It is necessary to note quite a good quality of the production of printed circuit boards by the "log" printing method on the laser printer.

Another original printed circuit board method

The circuit board is a dielectric plate, on the surface of which conductive tracks are applied and places for mounting electronic components are prepared. Electrocyadetali is installed on the fee usually using a soldering.

Printing device

The electrically conductive pathways are made of foil. The thickness of the conductors is, as a rule, 18 or 35 microns, less often 70, 105, 140 μm. The board has holes and contact pads for installation of radio elements.

Separate holes serve to connect conductors located on different sides of the board. Special protective coating and marking are applied to the outer side of the board.

Package Creation Stages

In amateur practice, it is often necessary to deal with the development, creation and manufacture of various electronic devices. Moreover, any device can be built on a printed or regular board with mounted mounting. The printed circuit board works much better, more reliable and looks more attractive. Creating it implies a number of operations:

Preparation of the layout;

Drawing pattern on textolit;

Etching;

Tinning;

Installation of radio elements.

Production of printed circuit boards is a complex, time-consuming, interesting process.

Development and production of layout

The drawing of the board can be performed manually or on a computer using one of the special programs.

Manually, it is best to perform a drawing of the board on paper from the chemicals on the scale of 1: 1. Millimeter paper is also suitable. Installed electronic components must be depicted in mirror reflection. The tracks of one side of the board are depicted with solid lines, and the other - dotted. Points are marked by the fastening of radio elements. Rowing platforms are painted around these places. All drawings are usually running. Manually, as a rule, make simple drawings, more sophisticated printed circuit board schemes are developed on a computer in special applications.

Most often use simple Sprint Layout program. For printing, only a laser printer is suitable. Paper should be glossy. The main thing is that the toner does not fit, but remained from above. The printer must be configured so that the thickness of the drawer's toner was maximum.

Industrial production of printed circuit boards begins with the input of the instrument schema in the system automated designwhich creates a drawing of the future board.

Preparation of blanks and drilling holes

First of all, you need to cut a piece of textolite with specified sizes. Process edge with a file. Secure drawing on the board. Prepare a drilling tool. Drill directly by drawing. The drill must be of good quality and correspond to the diameter of the smallest hole. If possible, you need to use a drilling machine.

By making all the necessary holes, remove the drawing and drill each hole to a given diameter. Clean the surface of the board with shallow skin. This is necessary to eliminate sowing and to improve the clutch of paint with the board. To remove fat traces to carry out the processing of the board with alcohol.

Drawing drawing on fiberglass

Drawing of the textolit board can be applied manually or using one of many technologies. Laser-iron technology is most popular.

Drawing drawings manually start with designation of mounting sites around the holes. They are applied using a raisfeceder or match. The holes are connected by tracks according to the drawing. Draw better nitrocracy, in which rosin dissolved. Such a solution provides a solid adhesion with a fee and good stability when etching with high temperatures. Asphalt varnish can be used as paint.

Production of printed circuit boards with laser-iron technology gives good results. It is important to correctly and gently perform all operations. Disciphetic fee must be put on a flat surface with copper up. Top to accurately place the drawing toner down. Additionally put some more sheets of paper. The resulting design to try the hot iron is about 30-40 seconds. Under the influence of temperature, the toner must move from the solid state into a viscous, but not liquid. Give the board to cool and place it for a few minutes in warm water.

Paper will be decking and easily cut down. It should be carefully inspecting the resulting pattern. The absence of individual tracks indicates an insufficient temperature of the iron, wide tracks are obtained with too hot iron or excessively long heat boot.

Small defects can be adjusted with marker, paint or nail polish. If the billet did not like it, then it is necessary to wash off the solvent, clean the sandpaper and repeat the process again.

Etching

Skibed printed circuit board is placed in the plastic container with the solution. At home, chlorine iron is usually used as a solution. Bath with him you need to periodically swear. After 25-30 minutes, copper completely dissolve. Etching can be accelerated if you use a heated solution of chlorine iron. At the end of the process, the printed circuit board is extracted from the bath, it is thoroughly washed with water. Then the paint is removed from the conductive tracks.

Tinning

There are many ways to mezzani. We have a prepared printed circuit board. At home, as a rule, there are no special devices and alloys. Therefore, enjoy a simple safe way. The board is covered with a flux and a soldering iron with a regular solder with a copper braid.

Installation of radio elements

At the final stage, radio components are alternately inserted into the place intended for them and solder. The legs of the parts before soldering are necessary to handle the flux and, if necessary, to shorten.

The soldering iron should be used carefully: with an excess of heat, the copper foil can start flaking, the printed circuit board will be corrupted. Residues of rosin remove alcohol or acetone. The finished fee can be covered with varnish.

Industrial development

At home, develop and manufacture a printed circuit board for equipment high-class It is impossible. For example, the printed fee of the amplifier for High-End-Equipment is multi-layered, used copper conductors with gold and palladium, conductive paths have different thickness, etc. It is not easy to achieve this level of technology even at an industrial enterprise. Therefore, in some cases, it is advisable to purchase a ready-made quality fee or make an order for working on your scheme. Currently, the production of printed circuit boards has been established in many domestic enterprises and abroad.

Good afternoon friends! Today I will tell you how to make a printed circuit board at home. There are several ways to make it using:

  • Varnish or enamel marker
  • Laser printer (laser-iron technology (LUT))
  • Film photoresist

In this article, I will tell you about the "Dedovsky", the first method, since these are the most basic and any newcomer must pass this stage. Manual wiring of printed circuit boards does not mean the inexperience of an electronic radio, although there are many drawing technologies on foil textolite, more beautiful and fast, but there are old-hardening radio electroners who belong to the manufacture of a printed circuit board, like handmade art and they do not care that there are photoresists , Laser printers, etc.

Also, this method of manufacturing a printed circuit board at home is useful in the manufacture of a double-sided board. When LTU technology is difficult to combine two sides due to inaccurate drilling holes, then it is easier to make the wiring of the printed circuit board in the manual, or only its second side.

All above listed methods Wiring a printed circuit board, nothing but a way of applying a picture to foil textolitol. And the principle of manufacturing a printed circuit board at home is reduced to one, it is removed excess foil, and the drawing (tracks) leave.

What we need:

  1. Foil textolite
  2. Paper and pen (pencil)
  3. Varnish, enamel, enamel marker
  4. Tara to etching board.
  5. Thin drill (0.7..0,9) mm.

At once a few words about varnish. You can use any, you can nail or color to be better visible. When I was completely small, 20 years ago, my father diluted the paths of the red nail polish, which was used by my mother. You can use quick-drying enamel. I use the Tsaponlak for the wiring of printed circuit boards, it is sold in our radio components, it is worth a penny.

I charge in the syringe and draw.

Now enamel markers are sold in radio components, a very convenient thing, for the manufacture of printed circuit boards at home, costs about 200 rubles, enough for a long time. Thickness line 0.8 mm. Here is an example of my Marker Edding 780.

So, first, we make a wiring of the printed circuit board on a leaflet of millimeters or in a cell, marking the points of the hole under the conclusions of the elements. I always first buy all the elements, then depending on their size and execution I make a wiring. You can not draw a printed circuit board in manual, but to dilute in, then print on any printer, including inkjet, as I did.

When you wiring a printed circuit board, consider which side you draw. With this method, it is better to draw relative to the part on which the tracks will be located, and the elements on the reverse side. If you draw relative to the side on which items are located, you will have to draw a mirror. Perhaps you did not understand anything, it's nonsense, everything comes with experience. Try, understand!

Next, we put our sheets with a flooding board, foil textolite and something sharp (for example, a gypsy needle) we apply labels for drilling holes. After that, drill holes with a thin drill.

Then I take a Tsamponlak or an enamel marker edding 780 and draw a track, sinking them with a leaflet. This stage is the easiest and most exciting.


There is another embodiment of the drawing on the foil textolitol. Figures on transparent paper (tracing) drawing, then neatly cuts the razor blade. It is superimposed on the textolite and processed by varnish. In short, like stencil.

After the lacquer dries, we prepare the chlorine iron solution, to take place the printed circuit board, you can buy in any radio car. How to breed the solution, written on the jar, I usually make it on the eye.

Everything, lowering a fee in a solution and a toothbrush I rub the board.

After some time, the fee must be removed from the solution of chlorine iron and rinse in warm water.

The tracks will better inflate the solder, otherwise copper is very good. Next we give the details, that's all, the printed fee at home is ready.

In constructing electronic circuits, you can use a universal printed circuit board with holes without tracks, but it is more convenient to use a printed circuit board made according to this scheme.

there is different methods Production of printed circuit boards, but this article will consider a photoresistive method.

This method is of course lout, but the result is almost always the perfect, the main "hand to fill". Yes, and in the aesthetic plan of photoresist all the advantages.

A photoresist is a sensitive substance (in our case it is a varnish), which under the influence of lighting changes its properties. The photoresist is superimposed by the photo mask and its illumination is produced, after which the flooded (or unfinished) seats of the photoresist are washed off by a special solvent, which is usually the caustic NaOH (NaOH).

All photoresists are divided into two categories: positive and negative. For positive photoresists, the track on the board corresponds to the black plot on the photoshop, and for negative, respectively, transparent. In many enterprises, they work with negative photoresists, but we will use a positive, as the greatest distribution in free sale. Let us dwell in more detail on the use of positive photoresists in the aerosol packaging.

In the manufacture of printed circuit boards, especially complex, method is most suitable when using a photoresist. Its main advantage is
A high-contrast pattern on the textolite with a resolution of 0.1mm (0.1mm ideally, but 0.25 mm is perfect) when manufacturing at home. In addition, sometimes manufacturing a printed circuit board, an important requirement refers to the aesthetic design of the finished product, especially if the circuit board is in the "open" position or is packaged into a transparent thermal tube.

Detailed Production Description PCB

Preparation of textolite

To make a printed circuit board with minimal material costs, you need to carefully prepare the textolite before applying varnish.

We mean that the textolite is cut into an exemplary size of the future printed circuit board with a margin along the edges of 5mm on each side. Usually, the grout of copper is beginning with special abrasive pastes, but in the absence of such a mix of the gel for washing dishes and detergent powder. Grouting with a metal grid for washing dishes, thereby remove oxide, dirt from the surface of the textolite, and the grid in turn climbs foil, which will increase the adhesion of the varnish (photoresist) with the surface.

Grouting depending on the degree of contamination of the surface as long as
The surface will not have a uniformly smooth shade, actually gold.

Chemical spots on the textolite can be removed before applying the photoresist to delete lowering the textolite into the solution of hot chlorine iron, if the foil on the textolite has become evenly red, then in principle the future etching will pass without problems, the fee after such a method should be rinsed thoroughly hot water And reinstate abrasive to the golden shade.

Now we rinse the purified textolite hot water and try it
Surface hands do not touch ...

Now we are dry at a temperature of 60-70 ° C with a minute until the surface takes a lightweight pinkish hue. If at the same time the process was formed on the surface, then it must be removed with a napkin. There should be no pile on the surface!

For drying, an ordinary hairdryer is suitable for drying hair ...

Preparation of photsbalon

While the textolite cools cooking a photo mask ... in this case there are several ways to manufacture, but I strongly recommend using an inkjet printer with a black-colored print resolution of at least 1,200 dpi. We will produce printing on a transparent film (in jet printers it is with a pile, with laser without a pile, a special thermople).

Pay attention to typical mistake With the first independent
PCB manufacturing - usually forget "Mirror" face
PCB.

Attention! The front side of the printed circuit board when printing should be mirror! Reverse not mirror!

Thus, after printing, the drawing on the film will be turned off from the working side of the film (in the jet - this is a darous side). And when we project a picture on the textolite - the film will be applied by the work side to it and with the projected drawing will be the correct (no longer mirror). In order not to make a mistake when printing, I recommend on the photoshoplord to apply, for example, the letters of their initials.

I recommend to make a couple of copies of photoshotles for rational use
Films and exclusion of errors in the manifestation of photoresist ... i.e. Do not do one seal, and for example, two at the same time (if they are not big), then choose the highest quality and straighten in the chlorine gland.

We are printed in this way of photoshop (positive) check for transparency, ideally working drawing (printed conductors) must be absolutely black!

Cut off the photoshicle from the film and try to do it any more, the remaining piece of film can be used yet (for printing another project).

On my example, I divided the photoshota for two, and I will do two at the same time
Boards ...

Applying photoresist

Since during this time he cooled, it's time to apply a photosensitive varnish on him. It is recommended to do this in a dark room with a weak light to see which layer of the photoresist we caused.

This process is one of the most important things, namely - should quickly apply
Uniform layer of varnish with a weak-purple shade without bubbles and flutters!

Of course, it is recommended to spray a photoresist on a centrifuge, but in the absence of such you can "squeeze the hand" to do it as in the photo above. Immediately appreciating about the shade on the eye, we make the following conclusion - is it worth moving to the next phase of the operation or not. Tint must be pale purple, transparent, i.e. copper (scratches on it from metal grid) Must be viewed! Do not be afraid that the photoresist has such a thin layer after applying - the main copper we are insulated before etching.

Usually it is recommended to dry the photoresist for an hour, but I carry out a drying with a relatively high 60-70ºС within 3-5 minutes. Then I leave the textolite cooling until it is completely cool. When drying the fee does not overheat, it can be cut off, sharply not cool! It is better to wait for the extra 5 minutes, but then the result will be excellent ... In this matter, the main thing is not to hurry!

Do not forget, of course, that all this procedure produces with weak lighting
(Weak energy-saving lamp or a luminescent lamp somewhere behind us will not bring much harm).

After drying photoresist, you should carefully examine the surface
Laca applied by us, at the edges of the board there should be no glare, it is better to touch them better, it is for this textolite and it is recommended to cut 5mm in the edges. Usually, the glances are formed on one edge, see the photo above, the board before applying the varnish is specially tilted to the photoresist, and more precisely its excess glasses on one of the edges of the board. When sprayed on a centrifuge, this option is almost excluded.

Exposure

This process is not complicated and short-term, is to prepare a photo shop on the surface of the photoresist and its subsequent illumination of the mercury lamp (ultraviolet spectrum).

I use medical irradiators for disinfection of premises (UFO-1, UFO-2 and the like). The UFO-1 contains a 100 W mercury quartz lamp in a pair with an incandescent spiral in quartz tubes (the resistor is role and are like infrared lamps with strong heat release). Since the time of the USSR, many such emitters have in apartments ... We also need from this emitter:

If this is not there, 500 W is a searchlight for garages, parking lots, etc., for example, the company "Cosmos", I used to be illumination, I don't remember the time of the illumination, I will have an experienced way, and the distance is not less than 30cm ( The high temperature of the spotlight will damage the photoresist, it glues with the template).

Quickly on the sprayed photoresist lays the working side of the photo mask on
film and cover with a piece of thin glass (from the photo frame for example). And extend the photoshop out of a distance of at least 25 cm, but not more than 35 cm when using UVO-1 exactly 2 minutes 15 seconds, if the photoresist has a weakly purple shade:

After the feet of the fee, we remove in a dark place for a while for 5-8 minutes, such as
Fixing a photoresist ...

Preparation of solution

Until our photoresist is fixed, prepare the solution for its etching. It is recommended that the German, that Belgian manufacturers use for the technique of caustic soda, it is caustic satro, powder coarse-grained white color, not transparent, and in the literal sense of the word - caustic. That is, it would be necessary to work in rubber gloves.

I prevent 7 grams of this substance for one liter of warm water until the powder is completely dissolved, you can remove the precipitate. If mixed in hot waterThe precipitate will also dissolve. Take the container, for example, plastic container. We lower our illuminated fee into it. (The solution should not be hot, it is better just warm!).

Immediately after the manifest, rinse carefully warm water Wash out the remains of caustic soda. In my photo, this process took less than a minute, since I have a solution of 7 grams per liter of water, and a little more ... Initially, the solution of caustic soda in the water is transparent, then it will change the shade - will become purple (seen in the photo above), t. E is dissolved with varnish.

You can use the solution repeatedly, I happened up to five times with weekly
The interval photoresist showed, the solution was already a dark purple color.

Etching board

Well, actually now cruise in the solution of chlorine iron in the water in the proportion of 1: 3


In the manufacture of printed circuit boards at home, the easiest and most common method is the LUT method.

This method is not devoid of flaws. If the toner heat is weak, then it will not stick to the foil of the printed circuit board, heavily warm himself. It is necessary to select print quality, if the toner is much - it will smear, the tracks, with small intervals, can stick together with each other. Heat the printed fee badly, and part of the tracks is not printed, it often happens in the corners of printed circuit boards.

I will tell you about the method of translation of the printed pattern on the foil without heating. The drawing will not be lubricated, the toner from the paper is transferred all. To do this, you will need two cheap chemical components: alcohol and acetone.



Instead of acetone, you can use any other substance that dissolves well toner.

Alcohol does not respond to a toner, everyone knows who tried to drop them a printed circuit board after etching, but he quickly disappears. It is needed to dilute acetone.

Acetone perfectly dissolves toner and evaporates quickly. If you try to use it in a pure video, it will lubricate your drawing, as in the photo.

The printed circuit board will get some kind of smell.

In what proportions mix acetone and alcohol?

It will take three parts of acetone and eight parts of alcohol. All this must be mixed and pour into some container with a dense lid. It is important that the container does not dissolve acetone.

How to use a mixture?

Dial not a lot of the resulting mixture in the syringe,



Apply it on the pre-cleaned oxides and well-degraded (this is important), the future printed circuit board (not on the printout). After that, put your printout on it. It is especially possible not to hurry, the mixture does not destroy instantly. Slightly press on the paper so that it completely sees to the board and soaked with a solution,

Wait 10-15 seconds, you will see when the paper is soaked,

After that, press the paper strongly, press the paper is strictly perpendicular to it not to move. Wait another 10-20 seconds. During this time, the toner will enter the reaction with acetone, will become sticky and stick to the board. With paper napkins, get into the remnants of the liquid, wait until the paper dry, then drop the board into the water so that the paper is commercial, and open it. The entire toner will remain on the board, and the paper will be clean. After that, rinse the board from the remains of acetone. Everything. You can train a printed circuit board.
In the photo, I removed the paper without swinging it in water and the toner remained.