Today, the toilet is available in each apartment. By virtue of its purpose, it is much more often exploited than other plumbing. Therefore, it breaks more often. And the most vulnerable component is a tank.

Tank device with bottom liner

The designs of all drain tanks have a lot in common. A distinctive feature is only the technology of setting and descending water.

Today, tanks equipped with a button and water supply from the bottom side received a huge distribution. They are especially relevant when you cannot arrange a side connection due to insufficient space. The price of such products is somewhat more than other models. But they work almost without noise and are suitable for repair.

This tank is endowed with one or two buttons - it is not particularly significant. Their number determines only the economy and water consumption.

These modifications have a common feature - strictly vertical movement float. It is powerfully fastened with a button and membrane valve. The button causes drain of water. Under the influence of the pressure in the pipeline, the inlet valve is discovered, and water falls inside. When the fluid level rises, the float rises at the same time, and with it the piston rod. It smoothly overlaps the inlet valve. When the required water level is reached, the valve is completely closed.

The diaphragm corresponds to the adjustment of water supply. Responsibility for changing its positions is assigned to ball crane. They can be controlled by a button located on the tank cover.

The drain is carried out through the siphon, which is concentrated in the middle of the lower case. It is attached to a discharge pipe with a special laying - saddle.

Adjusting the water level in such a system is much easier than in the device with side connections. There is a special limiter. Using it, you can control the level of fluid. He fastens a float with a valve lever. Float on it is attached using a thread. To set the volume of water in the tank, you just need to change the height of the float using the plastic nut.

Possible breakdowns and methods to eliminate

When suspected of a breakdown, you must first block the water approach and remove the lid.

Outer leaks

You can not always see them. They become visible with the formation of red spots. Disassemble the tank, diagnose. If the filter is not installed with a tough cleaning filter, elements of dirt and rust can be constantly accumulated in the tank. They can adversely affect the internal mechanisms of the system and cause it a breakdown.

When the tank is working normally, it is filled with water to the desired level. The pear is attached to the drain hole and keeps in such a position due to the effects of water. When the trigger is activated, the opening is opening for drain. Pear should always be provided with air. The defensive tube is protected from water from entering water. If the pear or tube is damaged, the whole system breaks. Therefore, after removing the cover, first examine these elements. If they are not elastic, there are cracks, then this is the cause of leakage. Repair in this case is not possible. Need a complete replacement. If a pear is a mustache, see if there is no dirt and rust under rubber. They are eliminated by the sponge.

• The gasket between the toilet and the tank can be faithful. You need to remove the tank, explore it. If it is very hard and covered with cracks, the output is one - replacement. It happens that it is just incorrectly installed. Then it is worth putting the gum more tight. Although the best solution is also replaced.
• Wear sealing elements under binding screws. Solution: Screws are unscrewed, the seals change. Removing the tank is not required here. It is better to put cone-shaped seals - they are more powerful to work surfaces. After replacing these elements, you need to twist the screws so that it does not work out. Their presence will lead to a new leakage. Screws are twisted slowly and alternately.

Internal leaks

Their sign is flowing water to the toilet. Reasons usually become:

• poorly adjustable overflow tube;
• damaged valve;
• damaged float.

First checks how the tube is configured. It is slightly lifted. You need to see if there is a transfusion of water into the tube. If there is, the repair of the float valve is required. If not, the lever is performed.

The source of the problem may also be trash under a rubber band. If its wear is detected, it is better to replace. When the valve or the float fails, their replacement is also carried out.

Water does not go to the tank

Here, first of all, you need to check the liner hose. It is discharged from the tank, the end falls into any container. If there is no water, this hose will have to replace the new one.

One more possible reason - the narrow component of the inlet valve is littered. Repair order:

1. Drain of liquid from a tank, water overlap and unscrewing a node that includes a valve, float and lever.
2. After these actions, a hole for filling the tank will open.
3. If there is a blockage, it needs to be eliminated. An ordinary needle or wire will help here. For total cleansing, the valve from the incoming nozzle is removed, the dirt residues are removed by water.

The appearance of noise in the tank during its fill

In fact, it is not a breakdown, but it gives a lot of discomfort. In most cases, noises are formed immediately after draining water. Then they decrease.

Solution: Pay attention to the locking mechanism, it takes a piece of tube on its nozzle. It should be small. Material - rubber or plastic. The length of the tube should allow it to reach the bottom of the tank. After this procedure, noise will immediately decrease.

It is possible to eliminate noises in another way. It implies the replacement of a standard float valve to another option - a valve having a special compartment and a stabilization function. After it is installed, the noise in the tank will disappear forever.

Repairing a drain tank toilet bowl is quite possible to perform own hands. The breakdown delivers fair troubles - this is the inability to fall asleep under the noise of constantly flowing water, and additional leakage pay, and a certain risk to flood their neighbors living under you.

Unitaza device

The filling of the container occurs with strong noise

Not the most terrible problem, causing a feeling of irritation only at night.

You can attach a flexible plastic tube to the float valve - silencer. It is installed at the entrance to the float valve vertically above the water level. The bottom end is immersed in water. Due to this, the flow of water will begin to enter the container below the existing level and the noise effect will decrease sharply.

The second option is to install in the stabilizing float valve system. The device of such a valve differs from the usual hollow structure with the presence at the end of the stabilizing chamber. By entering the piston, water falls into the stabilizing chamber and levels the water pressure on both sides of the piston.

To less often face the problems of repairing a drain toilet tank, systematically conduct preventive inspection and minor repairs. This list of works that can be performed with your own hands.

Summing up

We hope our article was useful for you. In order to more accurately deal with the technological and practical question, our website presents a detailed photo and video instruction in which you will find useful information on this issue.

The drain blade of the toilet breaks quite often, but not everyone wants to engage in its repair and cause plumbing. Meanwhile, the tank device is very simple, and it will not repair it, having the easiest set of tools in the house.

Drain tank for toilet bowl - how it works

The device of a drain tank toilet bowl is not too different in different designs. They act according to one principle, consist of two main elements: a mechanism that provides water supply, and a device for washes. Tacks at the place of installation are produced three types:

• cD installed on the bowl itself (Fig. 1);
• built-in wall - used mainly with suspended structures (Fig. 2);
• suspended, fixed at a certain height and connected to a bowl of a drain pipe (Fig. 3).

The compact package is located on the rear shelf of the toilet bowl, drives the lever or the button. The autonomous tank is hanging on the wall and connects with a cup of pipe. Drain has a chain for which you need to pull. Suspended toilet is attached to the wall, and the tank is hidden behind it. It differs from ordinary external species and design. It is performed as a high-strength polymer container flat shape. On the wall there is a button that is pressed for washes.

System of feed and plum - device and work

Water in the tank is fed by one of the schemes: side fit or bottom. For tanks with lateral water supply, a simple mechanism of two nodes is used: membranes in the housing, the purpose of which to insert water into the tank and overlapping its receipt, and the float connected by the lever with the case. It is lowered and rises together with the level, the lever leads to the movement of the membrane, which regulates the flow of water.

The device is simple and reliable, mostly domestic production, but water with a set is very noise. In more expensive models, acting on the same principle, to reduce noise, the pipe is used for which water is fed to the bottom.

In tanks with lower intake, the system is somewhat more complicated, but less noisy. The movement of the float is not free in the tank, but in the rod, but the principle of action is the same. In an empty tank, it goes down, and water begins to flow. When a certain level is reached, the hole is overlapped, and the receipt is terminated. The reinforcement is regulated on the volume of 5-7 liters.

The draining mechanism is implemented in different versions. It triggers after the impact of man on the handle, pressing the button or the riveting chain. Dear model of toilet bowls are equipped with two buttons. One can merge part of the water, saving it in this way. In case of malfunction of the float mechanism, the tank has overflow. A drainage device consists of a siphon and a manual drive. When a person leads to action, opens shut-off. It occurs washing the toilet with incoming water and keeping it into the sewer.

In modern toileties, it is used mainly to top. The most common option is with a rubber pear. It works very simply: press the button on the tank, under its exposure, the pear rises, the water merges. Instead of a button, a handle or chain can be installed. The system is even easier: enough to pull, and the pear will open the drain.

Common breakdowns - ways to eliminate

Faults externally appear continuous filling or water leakage. The reasons are broken in the distillation of the float, the non-development of its mechanism, the shut-off valve, which has an unreasonable seal, or it is easily adjacent to the nest. Potrested float is enough to correct. Also come with the valve when it does not get into place.

There is a problem with a constant overflow when water does not overlap the shut-off valve, often the float fault. To check the mechanism, raise it to the very top. If the receipt has not stopped, the float assembly will have to change. The reason may wage in the valve seal. Over time, rubber ages, cracks and no longer overlaps the entrance. For checking, press it with your hand if the water has ceased to arrive, change the seal.

Over time, the float wear occurs, hermeticity is disturbed, and it can no longer resist afloat. Then the water in the tank is not absorbed. In this case, you can replace the valve or use in another way. Disposability places in the float close up with any existing material. You can warm up plastic, apply the sealant or close the looser to the appropriate glue.

There are cases when water does not flow into the tank. Most likely, the narrowest part of the valve clogged. We act as follows. We produce water and remove all the insides. The narrow passage becomes available for water intake. We clean it with wire or needle. At the entrance, open the valve and rinse from clogged residues. After the start of normal water intake, overlapping it and put the mechanism back.

Permanent water leak is caused by a loose pear adjacent to the saddle, repair is required. To check, press it with your hand. If leak stopped, the reason is defined correctly. To eliminate a malfunction, a small load is secure on top to a pear so that it provides a dense fit. But if the pear was worn out, even pressure hand does not cover the leakage, you need to replace. After fixing the float at the top we unscrew the nut connecting the tank and the drain pipe, remove the mechanism. We remove the pear and install a new one.

Change the details - how to install and adjust

Sometimes there is no other exit, except for replacing the details of the drain tank. First, overlap the water, remove the lid and inspect the mechanism to detect defects. In expensive tanks, we see several (perhaps one) holes of a small diameter, which flows water. In one hole installed the valve membrane. Its condition is very dependent on the quality of water. To prolong her life, the filter is installed: the better, the more it will last. If the water supply does not have a filter, change the road mechanism on a simple domestic one.

The drain tank is simply repaired, replacing the items. For the repair of expensive models, it is enough to buy a remkomplekt consisting of sleeves and membranes. These are the details that fail, the rest serve for many years. To change the drain mechanism in the tank of cheap models, it is better to replace all the details at the same time, they are not very expensive. The main thing is not to be mistaken with the pipe diameter, know which is suitable for a particular tank. Pipes are metric or inch size.

After replacing parts, check the supply and drain of water, its number. If necessary, adjust the mechanism. The tank of the old system with side entrance is simple: equipped with a float, whose lever serves an ordinary wire. We change the water level by simple bending of the lever. Bending up - the amount of incoming fluid increases, the book is reduced.

In contemporary systems with a side supply instead of a wire for the lever, plastics are used. It will not be bend it, so the level control is carried out by moving the float along the lever. It is fastened with a thread or a latch, which is pressed before regulation. To increase the volume, move closer to the valve.

Designs with feeding from the bottom is easier to adjust. There is a limiter in the tank - plastic traction coming from the float to the lever. We extend it or shorten it, turning off the plastic nut on the limiter.

Lower approach - some features of models

Tacks with side supply were larger than the spread, but in some cases it is more expedient to apply the lower supply. It looks more aesthetically demanding less place. The breakdowns are ordinary, like all tanks, but the elimination methods are somewhat different. Water can be nonstopable to enter the tank due to low pressure in the water supply. The membrane valve does not work, and the output is to replace it on a rod, which does not depend on pressure.

Incorrectly working drain, insufficient or excessive tank filling is more often due to improper position of the reinforcement when it concerns the walls. We regulate the position so that the reinforcement moves without touching the walls. If the water is merged through overflow, the flow control is required by twisting the screw.

The most common problem in tanks with a liner below is the flow in places of connection. When the tightness is broken, we restore it by applying a sanitary sealant or changing the gasket.

Tighten the threaded connections very carefully so that some item does not cracked from excessive diligence.

Push-button drive - the most frequent problems

To remove the top of the tank with one button, unscrew the locking ring around it. We do not give much, they often plastic and can break. In addition to problems with the membrane and pear, which we have already told, it is possible to destroy the bolts holding the saddle of pears. We unscrew the nut between the valve and liner, the bolts that attract the shelf to the toilet. Longly tilted the tank forward and take out the cuff. We change the bolts in a pair, even if one is in good condition. Material for them - brass or stainless steel.

Remove from under the saddle of pear faience, carefully clean, also clean the surface of the shelf and the tank. If we do not change the pear, lubricate the sealant to stuck to the saddle. We collect a tank and tighten with new bolts without distortion. Checking the work, paying special attention to the places of possible leakage.

If the buttons do not work, they are or wade, or the lever mechanism disconnected. In this case, the lid is removed, and the mechanism is set to the desired position.

Without a toilet bowl in the bathroom, the cottage or apartment is not turned well to turn the tongue. Agree, this statement is difficult to refute. There is a huge number of models of this plumbing. But they do not differ in particular complexity of the internal device, the principle of operation in all modifications is one.

If there was a breakdown with water supply, then repairing, most likely, a drain mechanism for the toilet is used - precisely the drain system often fails with this plumbing device. We are ready to help you quickly cope with this problem.

In this material, we collected and summarized information about the main types of toilet tanks, breakdowns that may arise and how to eliminate them. For clarity, materials are accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

The drain tank is an integral and one of the main elements of the toilet. This is a container with two or three technological holes for the supply / drain of water and a lid.

First, the water is recruited in this tank, and then pressing the button is drained into a toilet bowl to wash off the sewage into the sewer.

There is nothing particularly interesting or complex in the design of the drain tank for the toilet bowl. Inside only a pair of mechanisms.

One provides the supply and overlap of the supplied water at the time when it fills the capacity to the desired level, and the second is designed for directly draining the accumulated moisture in the bowl.

Regardless of the design of the toilet, the drain tank must be present in it, since the direct supply of water from the HPV pipeline does not allow to ensure due quality and purity of flush

Drain tanks on manufacturing material are divided into three types:

1. Ceramic (Fayans's) - reliable and cheap classics.
2. Metal - Not too aesthetic outwardly, but the durable option.
3. Plastic (from polyethylene) - Lightweight in terms of weight and installation blocks.

By way of fastening and location, they are:

• low locked - installed directly on the bowl of the toilet;
• highly refined - They are hanging on the wall or are located inside it in the Installation block.

Separate toilet bowls, whose tank is separated from the bowl, a drain pipe has a drain pipe. And the higher the accumulative capacity is suspended, the more powerful water pressure is obtained.

The only drawback is not a very presentable view of the tank, which is high above the floor. Therefore, most often in domestic toilets you can see model of toilet bowls with the tanks supplied directly to the edge. They are more compact and aesthetic.

Variants of water supply systems

The internal mechanism of feeding in the drain blade toilet water includes:

• crane ();
• levers.

The water supply in the drive is carried out through the hole in its case on the right, to the left or below. In the lateral method, the float is fixed at the end of the horizontal lever, which is connected to the ball valve of the ball crane.

And at the bottom embodiment, the float is associated with a vertical rod located in the underlining tube.

The lower connection is considered more silent than the lateral - water in this case does not fall on top, and comes from the side, which eliminates the splash

The main principle of operation of the water supply mechanism in the drain blade toilet is extremely simple. As a result of the emptying of the drive, the float, holding on water due to air inside, is lowered after a decrease in fluid level.

Once at the bottom, it opens the valve of the reinforcement on the water supply system, and as the tank fills the tank again rises and blocked the water supply.

All in this mechanism is based on the laws of physics. There is no electronics in its design, which significantly reduces the risk of breakage. A situation is possible when too much water is too much in the toilet tank.

Then the float should only be adjusted so that the tank filler becomes fit the desired parameters. But if the levers broke, the float system will have to be changed.

Varieties of drainage mechanisms

If necessary, wash off the unnecessary we simply press the button on the tank. Everything else happens by itself. Inside the water descent mechanism, opening the drain valve.

As a result, the water stream rushes into the bowl and flushes everything into the sewer system.

filling and draining ekanems are not constructively among themselves, each of them functions independently, but these devices stop in the bundle simultaneously

The drain device is given:

• by pressing the button;
• push on the lever;
• duchess behind the chain (rope).

Bachts are produced different in shape and design. However, most of them are standardized for a volume of 6 or 4 liters and has typical dimensions of holes for drain valves.

The mechanisms of water descent, various designs, there is a huge amount. But if the existing in the tank breaks down, it can be replaced without any problems to a new one.

Our other article provides information about the water-feling device.

The simplest variety of drain siphon is a "pear", in shape resembling rubber vehicles. Under the weight of the water, it is tightly pressed against the drain hole and overlaps it.

And when you click on the pear lever, it is raised due to mechanical strength and produces water into a toilet bowl.

Then, as the tank is filling, it is dried and lowered back to the saddle, closing the drain hole again.

The overflow tube is always open, its upper edge is above the installed water level - if the tank begins to quarrel, the liquid simply flows straight into the sewer system

In the event of a breakdown of a water supply device in the design of a drain mechanism, the toilet bowl is provided overflow. When a certain level is exceeded, the water will be blown into this tube and directly through the cup to go into the sewer.

The most common breakdowns of the drain tank are considered in our article:

Everything works in such a way that it will not be able to pour out of the tank by definition. When triggered, such a transfusion will increase the testimony of the HALL counter, but will avoid the flood.

Structurally descent of water in the toilet itself is horizontal or circular. The first classic option implies the supply of water with a solid stream on one side of the bowl, and the second is the formation of jets into account from its blast.

The horizontal descent is cheated in the execution, but is not economical and worse is the Sanatayans. Circular analogue on all operational parameters is better.

However, with a high degree of water hardness, its small holes may be clogged, which will lead to a decrease in the number of jets.

The principle of operation of the two-mode drain

Modern models of drain tanks are equipped with a dumped drain button. This is a tribute to fashion saving.

Such devices are designed for two modes of operation:

• standard - on the reset to the bowl of the entire tank (4 or 6 liters);
• half - on pouring only parts of volume (2 or 3 liters).

A similar system is more economical in terms of water consumption. But it is more capricious in terms of setting up and repairing. The number of internal elements in it is increased, and therefore rises and the risk of breakage of this device increases.

A dual-mode drain tank with a pair of buttons can significantly save water, since in some cases only part of it is used, and not all completely

In addition to the dual option, the button for the dual-mode drain mechanism may be one. In this case, the descended volume of water depends on the force of human pressure on the lever.

While the button is pressed, the drain hole remains open, and after the release it returns up and at the same time the drain is overlapped.

Choosing and repairing tank mechanisms

Choosing a toilet tank, have to compromise between the price of the drain device and its quality. Design from metal elements more durable, but it is more expensive than fully made of plastic.

Water supply from below less Shumen side, but it will have to overpay a lot. The mechanism is easier to be installed, it is simpler and cheaper.

Soviet float design with plastic barrel on the shoulder from the wire. Let and looks not very presentable, but it is the most inexpensive and easy to adjust the option

The float is performed in the form of a hollow sealed cylinder or an inverted glass. The first option is more reliable, but when the holes appear in plastic walls on tightness, it will be possible to forget. Seeping through the cuts water will inevitably lead to the outlet of the float.

The principle of its work is based on the presence of air. When the punctures appears in plastic, it is subject to immediate replacement.

The "glass" is initially leakageless, the troubles with the breakdowns is an order of magnitude less - but if it accumulates inside the deposits due to the high rigidity of water, it will be too heavy and will stop working properly

Water level adjustment

If the water supply is carried out on the side, then its maximum level in the tank is regulated by changing the length of the knitting needles. It was at her end that the float is fixed. In old and many new models, the role of this lever performs a thick brass wire.

It needs to be easy to bend in the middle so that the float shifts down either up. The higher it in the end it turns out, the greater the volume of the tank will be filled.

However, now the metal is increasingly changed on plastic. And the plastic elements bend under the right angle will not work, they can simply break.

In such a design, the float must be shifted along the axis of the stiletto from plastic, increasing either reducing the shoulder of the lever. The farther from the valve will be a float device, the more water will go into the tank.

Gallery of images

Shoulder float in modeling models with lower water supply is located vertically. Here the water level is much easier to regulate.

The float element must simply move up / down and fix on the desired height provided for this by clips or nuts.

To simplify the position of the position of the float, some mechanisms have a threaded connection on the barbell or a rotating unit for adjusting the position of this "buoy"

The main problem when performing adjustment is not to change the position of the float, and in the need to remove the toilet tank cover. The drain button is attached on it, which in many models is rigidly connected to the descent mechanism.

In order not to break anything, it is extremely careful to disassemble this design. First, you must carefully unscrew the clamping ring of the button. And only after that it will be possible to move the lid without fears.

Did you still have an annoying breakdown of the toilet cover? You can try to fix it with your own hands. In we step by step reviewed how to do it.

If at the top position the float water still continues to enter the tank, then the problem lies in the inlet valve. It will have to disassemble and clean or completely change

Almost all working elements of the mechanism of the drain tank in the toilet are now performed from plastic, and not metal. Because of this, they are often broken.

Plumbing stores are sold both ready-made drain and feed designs and individual components for repair. In some situations, it is cheaper to replace only part of the device, and otherwise it is easier to change the entire node.

Photo instructions for replacing the device

Home masters wishing to completely change the spoiled drainage device will help in the work of the following photo instruction:

Gallery of images

To replace the drain valve, the tank disassemble.

To prevent excessive pollution of the room and ensure a convenient place to work, the most suitable plot for this close old newspapers or rags.

Gallery of images

The process of replacing the drain device is easy, but requires accuracy and clear compliance with the sequence of steps.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

We offer beneficial videos that allow you to better understand the mechanism of operation of the drain tank.

Plum assembly repair technology in the toilet:

Water is not recruited in the tank - what can be taken:

Methods for eliminating flow tank leaks:

The discharge device in the toilet is not too dull and complex design. The mechanism consists of two working elements - one for feeding and controlling the water level, and the second for its immediate flow into the bowl.

There are several types of these devices, each with its advantages and minuses. But the essence of work in all cases is the same. At the same time install, adjust and repair them with your own hands is easy.

With most questions you can cope without attracting plumbing. Problems can cause an installation installed in the wall - for mounting and better attract experienced masters.

Are you well acquainted with a drain mechanism of various types of tanks? Or use a suspended type toilet, which is hidden in the wall design? Perhaps you encountered any breakdown of the drain system and eliminated the problem on their own? Please share your experience with our readers, leaving your comments under this article.

By installing Sanfayans in a new house or recently purchased an apartment, you need to bother in advance about the right installation of the toilet bowl, strongly connecting hoses and pipes, serviceability of gaskets and fasteners. Old plumbing also occasionally requires a preventive inspection. Due to poor water quality, the reinforcement quickly flashes and fails, and then urgent repair of the drain tank is required. Sendance stands flooding housing, including neighbors from below.

What is the drain tank

At first glance - the simplest device: a container equipped with a drain and water supply system. When you press the button, the mechanism descends water, the feed valve opens, the devastated capacity is replenished.

The main functional parts of the tank: 1 (1) - intake (filling) fittings; 1 (2) - the drain (drain) mechanism; 1 (3) - water drain button. All items are related to each other.

Video: how to remove the toilet cover

Repair drain tank with your own hands

It turns out that even such an elementary device may break. Consider in more detail how to eliminate malfunctions without resorting to the help of plumbers.

Troubleshooting Float Mechanism

If the water is constantly recruited into the tank and immediately flows into the toilet - look for the problem in the float mechanism. Causes of breakage may be several:

• inlet valve wear;
• locking lever ("rocker");
• fault rude.

Float (Beeke) from long exploitation gives cracks through which water flows inside. It sinks and stops performing the basic function - it should simply be replaced.

If the lever bent, it is necessary to return it to the correct, horizontal position. The location of the lever is about 2 cm below the hole through which water flows.

Modern sets of drain reinforcement have a different structure - they do not include a traditional float at the rocker, although the principle of operation of the mechanism is preserved

Float mechanisms installed in the tanks of modern toilet bowls can be divided into piston and membrane. The first have the simplest design, in which the piston with the sealing cuff presses to the valve seat and thus overlaps the water supply. The second is a relatively newer development - they can be found in the predominant majority of modern drain tanks. Instead of a piston with a gasket in them, a membrane of wear-resistant silicone or latex is installed, so that during a set of water it is possible to significantly reduce the noise level.

The membrane valve of the drain tank although it has a more complex design, but received widely popular due to high reliability and quiet work

It is not difficult to guess that the breakdown of the locking mechanism is most often associated with the wear of the sealing gasket in the first case and the membrane - in the second. In addition, the malfunction of the float valves may be associated with the malfunctions of other parts of the mechanism:

• axis of the control lever;
• saddle;
• stubborn cap.

At least the presence in the trading network of inlet reinforcement of any size and allows you to replace the entire assembly assembly, you should not hurry with it. The wedding owner will definitely discern the mechanism and after identifying the cause of the leaks will eliminate the breakdown with the help of subwoofers. Thus, the sealing gasket can be cut out of a piece of genuine leather or dense rubber, the axis replace the segment of a thicker wire or nail, and the thrust cap is cut out of a suitable sealing material.

How to get rid of noise when filling the tank

A loud noise that accompanies the process of filling the tank with water, creates discomfort for others. It is easy to get rid of it, adjusting the diameter of the inlet or adds the fittings with a small plastic tube. Water will stop freely, to pour into the tank with noise, and it will turn through the tube, respectively, the loud sound will disappear. For this, a tube with a length of 30-35 cm by one end is put on the hole, the second is placed below the water level when the tank is merged. Even if the noise does not disappear, the plumbing will work quieter.

Plastic or rubber tube, reliating the inlet, muffles the noise of the water entering the tank. This device is relevant for tank tanks

Replacing bolts in case of leakage

Here, most likely, steel bolts rotted, which are fastening the tank to the toilet shelf - they must be replaced urgently. Having bought a new set of bolts, proceed to the dismantling of the tank:

• overlapping water by turning the valve perpendicularly;
• all inside and remove the residues of rusty fasteners;
• unscrew the nut and disconnect the inlet valve;
• we unscrew the old bolts fixing the tank on the shelf toilet bowl;
• remove the tank with a rubber dense cuff;
• take out old bolts. It is necessary to remove both, even if only one of them is faulty;
• clean the connection site of bolts with a tank and a tank with a toilet;
• twist new bolts;
• install the tank on the shelf, pre-adopting the cuff;
• tighten the fasteners carefully, so as not to damage the sanatayans;
• let the water and check whether it flows at the bottom of the tank; We descend the water a couple of times and check again.

Sometimes flowing can manifest itself a little later, so over the course of two days it costs occasionally carefully browing the problem space. As you can see, it is not always required to conduct overhaul - Sometimes it is enough to replace fasteners.

To unscrew the bolts connecting the drain tank with the shelf toilet, the special tool is not needed: usually "ears" are provided for convenient capture

The toilet tank fasteners are served in every plumbing store. The price of the cheapest - 40-50 rubles, the more expensive option will cost 250-300 rubles

Opinion expert

Victor Kaplohi

If the toilet was used for a long time, then, most likely, the bolts connecting the tank and the bowl of the toilet bowl, rusted so much that they would not be able to unscrew them even using WD-40 universal penetrating lubricant. In this case, only Bulgarian will help, with which it is necessary to neatly cut off the bolts from the bottom of the shelf. It is best if at the same time someone from home will hold the tank - so it will be guaranteed to remain as much. Looking for fasteners for replacement, choose hardware from brass. This alloy is perfectly opposed to corrosion, so if you still have a need to disassemble, then you can do it without difficulty.

What to do when water is constantly flowing

There is no speech about any water saving of water, if it is constantly flowing with a thin flowing in the toilet, without giving the necessary volume to gain in the container.

Most likely, the case in the ziphon membrane, which was worn out and lost the ability to hermetically close the hole. The problem is solved by a simple replacement of the membrane to a new one.

To do this, perform several actions:

• drain water;
• remove the siphon;
• remove the old membrane, install a new one;
• place the siphon in place, attach it to the lever, screw the fastening nut.

Sometimes it is not in the membrane, but in the craving breakdown, which can be easily replaced too.

The siphon membrane is located at the bottom of the drain reinforcement. It is a rubber gasket that ensures the density of the connection of parts

Opinion expert

Victor Kaplohi

Thanks to the versatile hobbies, I write on different topics, but the most beloved - technique, technology and construction.

The constant flow of water from the tank in the toilet is often not related to any malfunction. This happens in the case when for some reason the adjustment of the overflow was broken. If the drain tube is appointed correctly, the water level in the tank will be 20 mm below the plane of its cut. At the same time, the edge of the drain channel must defend from the intake nozzle of the flexible lining by more than 10 mm.

What to do if the drain tank is not filled

So, unexpectedly, the water completely ceased to flow into the tank. Is it enough to independently repair, or have to turn to plumbers? Consider three ways to solve this problem.

First, check the health of the supply hose. We overlap the water, disconnect the hose from the tank and put it on any capacity (can be over the tank). We unscrew the valve slightly, let the water again. If everything is in order with the hose, water will flow freely into the container. In the opposite case will have to replace it.

Perhaps the place of attachment of the supply hose was clogged, since after repairing the pipeline, sand and other mechanical pollution fall into the water, capable of scoring small holes. You can try to clean it with an elongated acute object, such as screwdriver.

In addition, you should make sure clean the filter rough CleaningIf modern shut-off valve with a membrane valve is installed in the tank. To do this, it is necessary to disconnect the flexible eyeliner and with the help of passage with thin sponges, remove the filter from the supplying nozzle. To clean it from dirt, it is enough to put the part under a strong water stream. If the filter has been clogged with persistent sediments, it should be placed for several hours in vinegar or solution citric acid, then clean the tassel with a rigid bristle.

The cost of the new supply hose is about 100 rubles. It is better to buy a product that has a shut-off valve - in case of leakage of a drain tank, water is much easier to overlap

If the fault of the float mechanism occurred due to the fault of the inlet valve, it will be advisable to replace the node assembly. The strength spent on repair and time do not cost a pair of hundred rubles, which will have to give for new fittings. As practice shows, repair the locking mechanism is possible units - most likely, in their number you do not enter.

Replacing fittings

If there is no desire to mess around with the small parts of the reinforcement of the reinforcement, you can simply remove the old one, and in its place to install a new mechanism purchased in the store.

Having removed the old fittings, pay attention to the fault. Perhaps the complete replacement of the mechanism will not need, sometimes it is enough to change one small detail

Fittings for drain tanks have constructive differences. For example, their structure is different depending on the type of eyeliner - side or lower

To begin with, we will understand how to better disassemble the design on the example of fittings with the bottom liner:

• overlapping water;
• gently unscrew the button;
• remove the lid;
• disconnect the eyeliner;
• remove the drain column in parts: first dismantle the upper part (turning 90 degrees);
• unscrew the fastener of the drain tank;
• put it on for further work on the toilet;
• we unscrew the two nuts: fastening the valve and columns, take out the second part of the reinforcement;
• we establish a new mechanism and carry out reverse work on the installation of the tank.

As you can see, change the components of the tank is not a lot of work: the entire operation takes no more than 10-15 minutes. Another advantages of independent work is not required special tool, all actions are carried out using hands, pliers and keys.