depending on the purpose of the vessel model, the body of the model can be solid - monolithic, made of wood, bones, plastics, or hollows; In this case, the listed materials listed earlier are added tin, brass, plywood, cardboard, paper.

In the manufacture of cases of vessels of vessels, the most time- "new designs and technological methods are applied. These methods are not similar to one another, but they all pursue one goal - to get the body, exactly corresponding to the theoretical drawing of the vessel model. Therefore, however by the method of a ship, Whatever the material it uses, first of all, he needs to have a theoretical drawing and, using the outlines of the splits or waterline, make templates.

Monolithic structures

Cases made from solid material - whether it is a tree, bone, plastic or any other. Material - most often used for desktop, demonstration, historical models.

Building the body of the model begins with the processing of boards and gluing them, if the body is wooden. Sometimes for the housing, a piece of reservoir, mass or bone of the corresponding size is designed. The sequence of manufacturing a monolithic case is shown in Figure 94. Processing the timber in the form of a parallelepiped with a viscosity against the largest dimensions of the model body, it is necessary to mark. Getting started, the modelist must have an accurate theoretical drawing of the model. First you need to reissue or a sharp deck diametron on the deck, in the nose, along the bottom and in the stern part. Risks should be deep and accurate. Then the lines of the spangling on the deck and side are carried out, outlines the deck, the stentevera, feed and the line of the side are applied. The markup of the bar is a very responsible MO.MEN in the work of the shipyard, and here you need to remember a good Russian proverb: "Seven times will die, and one is a detachment." A small error can lead to a damage of blanks, all previously performed work will disappear for nothing.

The next step in the manufacture of the housing is the timipmark of the bar. First of all, it cuts off the nose and stern, then poured along the contour of the waterline and remove part of the deck if the body is made with the semi-bug.

When the housing is roughly processed, proceed to giving it a form in accordance with the outlines of the splits. Patterns of the spangles should be cut either from plywood or from dense cardboard. Rough processing of timber at first can be made with an ax, then you should use the chisels, finishing plans, a wrist-campaign, a skirt. When processing the housing, control your work with the folds of the splint sets.

Hollow designs

As experience shows, the shipyards are rarely resorted to the manufacture of solid, monolithic buildings. Even when installing on the model of the rubber motor, it is necessary to have free space in the case for the arrangement of hooks, rubber harness, rowing shaft. Therefore, modelists build mainly hollow hulls. There are a lot of ways to build buildings, the book is described in the book most common.

^ Papier Masha Case

Right, competently build the body of the vessel model is not very simple. Therefore, the leaders of the circles can at first recommend that beginner models build buildings from papier-mache. First of all, you need to make a blank. It can be made of wood as described above.

You can apply another method (Fig. 95). On theoretical processing or a form of a discharge, you need to cut out of 3-5-1millimeter plywood diametrical plane and splintings; In the Spappa and diametrical plane, cut the grooves. Having collected this simple design, it is necessary to fill the sketch between the splint mats by any plastic material. Paraffin is suitable for this purpose. Having done exactly in size. We collected plywood frame drawers or cardboard box, Lower the frame and pour the molten paraffin. If the paraffin cannot be obtained, use the plasticine, clay, alabaster. When the material hardens, treat the outer surface of the blank. It is not difficult to do it, as the swarthhum, which must be drinking very accurately, will control the correctness of the body shape. After the boiler is ready, proceed to pasting it with paper. Cheer the case is best inclusive, newspaper paper. Paper should not cut with scissors, it is better to order with your hands, in this

the case of the edge does not have a sharp face and with the "Aleke layers are well seized. Cooked paper poured for a few minutes warm water. The blank of the model body is lubricated with vaseline, butter or some other fat and begin to shine paper strips. For gluing paper, alentry from potato flour or dextrical glue is used. The first two layers of paper are laid out without glue, follow-up - on glue. Pieces of paper need to apply very tight on each other, without spaces, so that the edges of the adjacent layers are covered with a new piece of paper. The superimposed layers of paper should form a smooth surface without convexities and depressions. For small buildings, 10 layers of paper are enough, it is about 1.5-3 mm; For large buildings, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the casing to 4 mm.

Having saved the case of the housing 3- 4 layers, you need to give paper to dry for 10-12 hours, then put another 3-4 layer and dried again.

The body of the Papier-Masha model can be done in another way: the wood is made from the wood and in size, with a slight point, make a box of 5 mm plywood (Fig. 96). In the box pour diluted gypsum or alabaster. Then, abundantly groaving a vaseline blank or tavo

Fig. 96. Case from papier-mache (2nd option):

/ - lowering blanks in liquid plaster or paraffin: 2 - gypsum form; 3 - laying paper sheets; 4- Ready Case in section; 5-plywood plywood frame in a papier-mache case.

tom, give it in the gypsum and give plates to frozen. When the blank is removed from the gypsum, the form is formed. Now it remains to lay out the shape of several layers of paper as it was above. In this case, the method of manufacturing the body the outer surface adjacent to directly to the gypsum form is obtained very smooth.

Dolly housing

The damper for the dumplings of the vessel model is made in the same way as in the manufacture of the housing from Papier-Masha. The finished blank is installed on the workbench and proceed to hollow out it

Fig. 97. Production of a Dolly Corps of the Ship Model (1st Option):

/ - Kollet's drilling; 2 - chisel dumpling; s - markup under the theoretical assemblings; 4 - section on the spangling.

(Fig. 97). To facilitate and accelerate the work, it is recommended to use the coamper with the peel and make a number of holes. Using the theoretical drawing, you can restrict ourselves to the drilling by the splits. Select the tree from the inside of the case with the help of chisels and semicircular chisels.

There is another way of making a damn the vessel model (Fig. 98). The bar from which the case will be made should consist of two halves glued along the diametral plane, between the interpositions need to pave a sheet of paper. Marking and initial opili]<у корпуса производят обычным способом. Затем нужно разъединить половинки и сделать пропилы ножовкой с внутренней стороны. Лишний материал выбирается с помощью стамески - сначала плоской, а потом полукруглой. Когда половинки корпуса обработаны, их склеивают. Через один шпангоут в корпус нужно врезать бимсы, на них будет крепиться палуба.

Production of Dobol. Dried buildings are easy, but quite laborious, the housing is obtained heavy, but the accuracy of the manufacture<ет быть очень высокой. Дерево хорошо поддается обработке и отделке.

Puff enclosures

Young shipbuilders can also be offered such an option for the manufacture of the body of the model (Fig. 99). Taking a few boards,

RSH. 99. Production of a puff enclosure of the vessel model:

/ - drinking the loanline circuit and the inner part; 2 - drunk waterline; 3 - (;; Waterliner's layering; 4, 5, 6 - cross-section of glued blank; T is a finished dryer.

Fig. 100. Scheme of the manufacture of a composite case of a vessel model (1st and 2nd options):

/ - Production of the bottom of the board; 2 - fastening plywood plywood and private bars; 3 - cross-section of the composite case; thin plywood cover; 5-installation of nasal and feed extremities, splint and stringers; 6 ~~ Case cover with thin plywood.

they are even sharp and prepared for gluing. Then from the theoretical drawing on the boards is transferred from 3 to 5 waterline, depending on the thickness of the boards. It is also planned, how much do you need to remove the tree from the inside. After that, the inner contour is first poured into the inner contour first, and then the outer wire is 2-3 mm. When all the boards are drinking, they glued and fit into clamps. It is necessary to give the Khoropovo boards to dry and only after that proceed to the processing of the tree. Processing is made by conventional carpentry tools: chisels, plans, rashpil, files, cycles.

Composite corps

The base is the lower part of the case - it is made from the board in accurately according to theoretical drawing, then the plywood will be cut out of the plywood, the private bars are put on and "sewn" to them - it is nailed to the adhesive - thin aviation plywood with a thickness of 0.5-1.0 mm. The tip is the nose and feed - are made from solid pieces of wood.

This set of buildings of the hulls (Fig. 100) received quite widespread in shipments, especially when building models having an angular distribution of the splits, - high-speed, glissing boats and similar types of ships. For full models with a significant cylindrical insert, this method can also be recommended.

Set of corps

The most common and rational method of manufacturing enclosures for vessel models should be considered widely used by shipyard methods. Methods for the construction of the set of enclosures are shown in Figures 101, 102. The technology of building the housing in this method is somewhat resembled by the existing methods of the construction of these ships. Work begins with drinking splits and the manufacture of destroyers - nasal and feed tip. Then the set is installed on the placed Bruke - a kind of stapel, a place where the vessel model will be gathering. By installing the tip and the swarthhum, you need to tie them with a keil beam - Kilson - and onboard bars - deck stringers. Then begin to navigate the pre-harvested rails with a thickness of 3-4 mm. Under the Hats nails need to put pieces of cardboard or plywood. This is necessary in order to not damage the model of the model when pulling out nails. The assembly of all parts is carried out on the glue. When the glue dries well and grab the rails to the splits, the nails are pulled out by tongs. When building a set enclosures, instead of the rails, it is possible to use thin aviation phaneer as a casing, veneer. In this case, it is recommended, in addition to a private bar, set one or two side stringer.

Slim cardboard or dense drawing paper can be applied to the trim. For some housings of high-speed glissing boats, it is possible to use the casing of the body of the body on the ak-20 hydraulic cuff.

The description of the methods of building buildings for vessel models would be incomplete if we did not speak about the manufacture of metal buildings.

Metal housings

The manufacture of tin buildings resembles the construction of real ships; If you keep in mind that the thickness of the skin on small modern ships is 6-8-10 mm, then on a model, reduced 100 times compared with this vessel, the thickness of the thickness should be 0.06-0.1 mm. Such a tin is difficult to find, so you have to be limited to the existing tin from canning cans; It is quite suitable for making a metal case. It should be started with the manufacture of the theoretical drawing of the freezing of the body of the model from the tree. It is recommended to take a solid breed - oak, maple, ash, beech, as a last resort, birch. On the blank it is necessary to place theoretical splits and cut into the grooves, where the splints will then be inserted. The blanks of the splintmost are very simple. A risk at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the sheet is carried out on the neck of the treadmill, then another 5 mm is the next risk, and after 10 mm new; Under this risk, the flex is made and the resulting strip is cut off. Then, by holding the african in vice on the marked risk, you need to straighten the edges of the shelf-shelves with a hammer as shown in Figure 103. The blank of the spangling is laid into the slot on the blank, and with the help of the image, the shape of the spline is attached to the blank. The spline is fixed with a bracket made of nail. In order for the splint to speak on a blank, it is recommended to make a cutout on the thickness of the tin; This will ensure the smoothness of the housing oven. Having strengthened in such a way the splint sets, it is necessary to prepare the patterns of the paper of the paper and cut the parts of the trim from the tin. The length of each sheet of tin for the plating should be such that on the bottom of the sheets of the right side of 1-2 mm overlap the sheets of the left side, and the sheets must reach the edge of the deck. The leaf of the plating should be soldered along a blank, giving him the shape of the model of the model in this area, and fasten with thin wallpaper cloves. After fixing all sheets of the trim, you can proceed to the soldering sheets, pre-removing the nails, which are attached leaf of the plating to the splits. If two sections are not very accurate, this is not a misfortune: add a little tin and fill out the distance between two adjacent sheets. And if one section covers the other, cut the one that is not yet soldered. It is not recommended to solder a nasal and fodder tip, as in this case it makes it difficult to remove the housing with blank. To enhance the nasal tip, it is advisable to pour the intrigue - a metal plate with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm. Inside the case, when it is removed from the blanks, you need to have several bims - transverse links of the same profile as the splintmosts. Sheets of deck

the flooring should be shown on Bims. In the extremities, the decks should have curved edges that enter on the side from the outside.

The body of the vessel model, made of tin, can be very accurate in shape, and it is greater than any other, approaching the enclosures of real ships.

Test of the vessel model

When the case of the model is ready, it should be tested for waterproof, precipitation, stability. For this purpose, the so-called experienced pool is built. It is best to build a pool from roofing iron (Fig. 104). Made from it Box with dimensions 3 000х700х

Fig. 104. Roofing pool for testing models.

Fig. 105. Puzzle pool for the competition of small models of ships.

X 500 mm concluded in the machine associated from the boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The legs must have a cross section of at least 60x60 mm. The height of the pool is about 750 mm. Waterproofability is provided by putting all connections and a thorough coloring pool from the inside and outside. For the descent of water, a piece of tap pipe with a crane is provided. A rubber hose joins the pipe. Filling the pool is made from the water pipeline. Do not forget to put the grid on the outlet to eliminate the blockage of the drain pipe.

Figure 105 shows the appearance of the pool and its basic ■ sizes. The size of the basin can be changed depending on the size of the room, where it will accommodate, as well as the available sheets of roofing iron. The idea of \u200b\u200bthe building of the pool from plywood is offered by Kuibyshev's shipyard *. The simplified pool is a flat tray of about 6 thousand mm long, 1 thousand mm width and 350 mm high. For the manufacture of the pool, 4 sheets of 3-millimeter plywood and 4 boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm, 6,500 mm long.

Collect the pool, carefully prcribes all the grooves and places of connections. Outside and inside, cover the hot oil pool, let me dry, then paint two or three times with oil paint. On the walls of the pool on the inside, apply the mark after 250 mm, retreat from the front wall per 1 thousand mm.

The pool when filling to a level of 250 mm accommodates slightly more tons of water. The water descent is made through a hole with a rubber tube, made in the rear wall of the pool. When the pool is filled with water, the hole is closed from the inside the cork.

In such a basin, there were competitions of small models of vessels with rubber engines. The temporary pool can be coated from tarpaulin. A box is made from the boards on the size of the tarpaulin or the machine. The tarpaulin is stacked inside the box, the edges are attached to the rail with nails to the walls, after which the water is poured. In such a temporary pool, it should not hold water long. The release of water is carried out using a rubber tube.

* I. Aristov, indoor competitions in marine models. Magazine "Military Knowledge" No. 1, 1954, p. 20.

Shimodelism is one of the leading hobby directions in Russia. Having bought a wooden model of the ship, you will receive not just a decoration for the interior, but also subsequently the model of museum quality. Wooden sailboat is not ashamed to give friends and loved ones. In the manufacture you will develop such skills as perfection, accuracy and patience. Immediately make a reservation that many months go to the assembly of complex models, but believe us, it is worth it. Prefabricated models of ships From the tree one of the most exciting and complex directions in models. Most prefabricated models are copies of real ships with a rich history. In our collection you will find the Viking ship, a pirate ship, the ships of the time of Admiral Nelson, a lot of yachts. A ready-made model of a sailboat You are proud to show friends.

If this is your first seat model shipWe recommend paying attention to AMATI and OCCRE firms. Since almost to all models we transferred instructions and into Russian and the price / quality ratio is higher than from other manufacturers.

Try to cut this ship. Such a craft will probably like your loved ones by placing it in a prominent place, for example, on the shelf. For the manufacture of such a craft, you will need the following:

Refilling Tools.

First of all, you need to prepare your desk on which you will work. It should not be unnecessary things and every tool should be at hand. Not everyone has its desktop and certainly thought over to its creation. It is not difficult to make the table - it's hard to choose a place for it in the house. The ideal option is a warmed balcony where you can make a cradle at any time. I already wrote about the preparation of the table in a separate article and tried to describe the whole process of its creation as possible. If you do not know how to prepare your workplace, then read the following article. After completed the process of creating the table, try to start choosing your future craft.

Choose high-quality material

The main material is plywood. The choice is always complicated. Each of us probably came across such a problem as stratifying plywood from the end part and asked such a question, what is such a stratification? Well, mostly, it is mainly due to poor-quality plywood. If you took the jigscription in your hands not the first time, you can pick up the plywood from the residues from the previous craft. If you are new to drinking and you do not have plywood, then buy it in a construction store. Select material for drinking is always difficult. You need to choose a fane at carefully, more often to look at the flavors of the tree (bitch, cracks) and draw conclusions. The complexity of the selection of plywood lies in the fact that no matter how much its defects and the shelf life. For example, you bought Phaneur, cleared it, transferred the drawing and suddenly she began to settle. Of course, it happened almost for everyone and it was oh as unpleasant. So it is better to pay attention to when choosing and choosing a good fane. I wrote a special article in which all the principles of plywood choices are stood.

Stripping plywood

We clean our plywood with the help of sandpaper. As you already know, the "medium-trim" and "fine-grained" skirt is used to stripping plywood in drinking. In construction stores, you probably saw skins (in a different emery paper), they will need them. In your work you will need "coarse-grained", "medium-sized" and "fine-grained" skar. Each of them has its own property, but completely different sputtering at which it is classified. The "coarser-grained" skunk is used to treat coarse plywood, i.e. which has many defects, chips, as well as cracks.
The "medium-sized" skar serves to process plywood after a "large" skirt and has a small spraying. "Smallozing" or otherwise "zero". Such sandpaper serves as the final process of plywood stripping. It gives plywood smoothness, and therefore plywood will be pleasant to the touch. Grind the harvested Phasepno, starting with the medium and ending with small emery. Grinding along the layers, and not across. A well ground surface should be smooth, completely smooth, glossy in light and silky to the touch. How best to prepare Phaneur to drink and whatever empty paper to choose read here. After stripping, check the Phaneur for burrs and small irregularities. If there are no visible defects, you can crime to the process of translation of the drawing.

Translation of drawing

For me, the drawing translation was always the main process in work. I will tell you a couple of rules, as well as tips for high-quality drawing translation. Many translate the drawing on the Faneur not only with the help of a pencil and copying, but also with the help of the "black ribbon", glue the drawing with plywood, then wash off the drawing with water and the drawing markup remains on the plywood. In general, there are many ways, but I will tell about the most common way. To transfer the drawing to the harvested Phaneur, you must use a copy, ruler, sharp pencil and not writing handle. Copy the drawing, in the plywood with the help of the buttons or simply hold your left hand. Check if the drawing is suitable for dimensions. Watch drawing position so that it is more economical to use a sheet of plywood. Translate the drawing using a not writing handle and ruler. It is not worth a hurry, because your future handicraft depends on the drawing.

Drill holes in detail

As you have already noticed that there are parts of the grooves that need to be filled from the inside. To cut such details, it is necessary to drill holes in them about the help of a hand-haired drill or, as in the old manner, do the holes with a seboard. By the way, the diameter of the hole should be at least 1 mm otherwise you can damage the elements of the drawing, which, alas, sometimes, it is difficult to restore. In order to do not damage your desktop when drilling holes, it is necessary to put on the workpiece so as not to damage the desktop. Over the holes are always difficult to drill and so ask your friend to help you in your business.

Drinking details

Rules for drinking a lot, but it is necessary to build up to the most common. First of all, it is necessary to cut the inner parts, only then on the outer pattern. When drinking is no need to hurry. The main thing, when drinking, keep the jigsik always right at an angle of 90 degrees. Put the details on the exactly marked lines. Lobzik movements should always be smooth up and down. Also, do not forget to follow your posture. Try not to allow SKOs and irregularities. If when drinking you left the line, you should not worry. Such spaces, irregularities can be removed using flat files or "coarse-grained" skirt.

Relaxation

When drinking, we often get tired. Often tired fingers of hands as well as eyes that are always in tension. When working, of course, everyone gets tired. In order to reduce the load, you need to do a pair of exercises. Exercises you can receive here. Exercises do in the process of work several times.

Stripping details

Clean the details of the future craft should always be carefully. At the very beginning of work, you have already cleaned up the Phanener with emery paper. Now you have already a small part of the plywood stripping. "Mediterranean" skirt cleaned the ribs of details and the back of plywood. The "fine-grained" skin is considered the final stage of stripping details. Small skurt it is better to clean the front part of the details. When processing plywood do not hurry. You can use the rounded file, with which it is convenient to clean the inside of the holes. Try to work out without burrs and irregularities.

Build details

Assembling details of our ship here is not so complicated. In order to carry out the correct assembly of the details, you need to read next, in which it is written in detail about all the details of the assembly. After the details are collected in one common craft without any problems, then proceed to their gluing.

Glue details

Bonde parts of the shelves are necessary with the help of the "PVA" or "Titan" glue. You do not need a lot of glue. The collected cracker on the glue is better to tie a durable thread, tighten and put on drying. The workpaper gluits about 10-15 minutes.

Burning crafts

To decorate our ship with a pattern (for example, on the edges of the ship) you will need the electric heating. Beautifully smeared the pattern is very difficult. Sign out patterns, you need to draw a pencil pattern after drawing. How to work with the electric heating and add patterns on the shelf you can read here.

Laccination crafts

Optionally, our ship can transformed, covering him with a lacquer "on wood" better than colorless. Read how it is better to lacquer. Try to choose high-quality varnish. Produce varnishing with a special brush "for glue". Do not hurry. Try not to leave visible divorces and scratches on the cradle.

Create a model of an old ship can be independently without buying a ready-made design for assembly. For the result turned out to be high-quality, you will have to show a lot of patience and perpetuity.

Materials

For the manufacture of a historic ship with their own hands, prepare:

• phaneur or cork tree;
• thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
• carpentry glue;
• paper;
• pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood was used as the basis, but a cork tree. The choice was caused by the simplicity of work with the material. Unlike plywood, where you need a saw for trimming, with a cork tree everything cost a simple sharp knife. Thin strips for work can also be taken from any material, they just need to be well stuffed. Joineric glue should not be replaced by any hot, neither more super-glue.

Step 1. On paper, you need to draw the basic details of the future ship. You can print them and print if you find suitable layouts on the Internet. Note that during the work, your ideas can undergo small changes. It is not critical if you want to simply build a ship in an old style, and not repeat the exact copy of a particular vessel.



Step 2.. For convenience, working with the ship was divided into several parts. Also gathered and the ship itself. The main time was made by the manufacture of the central part of the ship. Then the front, rear parts and the deck part with the mast were made.

Step 3.. The first thing on the existing sketches make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure all the edges are symmetrical. If somewhere there is a small deviation - correct these flaws. Check that when attaching the ribs accurately become at an angle of 90 degrees.





Step 4.. After the skeleton is ready, start decorating its side parts. For this, along the central line of the side part, glue a long rail. It is focused on it and further when you stick the rest. Reiki is better to glue in stages to facilitate their work. The glue apply enough, but make sure that it does not flow along the slats. Reiki additionally attach with the help of the clips, leaving them in this form until the glue is complete. After the adhesive, the clamps are removed and continue to glue the rails in the next site.







Step 5.. All places where the gaps are formed between the rails are formed by epoxy resin. All ship details as ready to cover with a lacquer for wood.



Step 6.. After the main work, go to the finish. All possible aesthetic flaws you can hide at this stage. For this, over places with explicit defects, gently glue the rails hiding them. From the rattan you can make a horizontal line, emphasizing the smooth forms of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.



Step 7.. Masts need to be made of wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. Mast in the ship will be two. Rods in advance pon the calculated dimensions. To mount the mast cut two pieces of wood with a size of 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them under the mast rods. From small rods, make a strengthening grille and collect the entire design completely.





Step 8.. Make a template for the deck of a paper ship and based on it with a deck part of wooden stripes. Giving it thoroughly dry, drill holes for mounting mast. Insert and glue masts. From plywood, make the side handrails of the ship.





Step 9.. Similarly, glipe wooden strips in the front and rear parts of the ship. They need to be glued side by side and in the deck part, and from pieces of plywood make rods and handrails. All the details of the joinery glue are fasten. Rear part of the ship do not forget to raise steps.

Making models of ships - the oldest of the "technical hobby" of a person: almost six thousand years people are perpetuating their trial in miniature. The oldest of the models found in the excavations - ritual silver switches with the vests from the tomb in Mesopotamia - archeologists refer to the beginning of the fourth millennium BC.

Russian professional judicialism is much younger, but he already equal to three centuries. The manufacture of models of ships began with the Petrovsk "model-camera", in which the "Admiralty" models of all new ships under construction were stored. These were the exact detailed copies of the design of the housings with partially removed by the trim, which performed the role of visual benefits for ship carpenters, poorly split in the drawings.

In essence, Peter I myself was the first serious Russian modelist. Even in seventeen years, returning from the "great embassy" in Europe, he built such a model of the frigate, by decree of Peter, all models were stored as samples for descendants. From the assembly of this Kamor itself, which was at the site of the current fountain before the Admiralty, at the time and began the collection of our Naval Museum.

Probably, many, and even more so in St. Petersburg living in St. Petersburg, with his history and traditions, at least once, yes, a desire arose with her own hands to build a model of some sailing ship. However, without the necessary skills and tools, at home, it is hardly possible to do, guided by special literature and ship-to-wear sites. The technologies described there are often quite complex, they require special equipment, materials and almost always suggest a certain experience, so making a ship's task is not very simple. In the result, whose skills are limited to school lessons of work and the folding of paper boats, difficulties arising from work, rather will refresh the desire than they will form interest. It is difficult to find recommendations that allow you to create anything substantial, holding a job with almost scratch. But still, if desired, it is quite possible to build a fairly decent model, having the simplest tools available in any house where there is a man "with hands" and a minimum set of material. It is necessary only to initially set up itself to the fact that everything will work out, be sure to (!), But almost never - immediately. What is the incomplete operation, focusing the item (well, even if one!) - The norm, the necessary experience gained, and in no way states.
In serious professional models, whose work, worth, sometimes, tens of thousands of dollars occupy the first places at international exhibitions, as a rule, a fairly skeptical attitude towards models made from papier-mache. It is understandable - paper, even well-cocked, still will remain paper. But for the one who first tries to have their own strength in models, this technique of work will be most preferable. It does not require any expensive materials, nor tools, and as a workplace allows you to restrict ourselves to a simple table with a piece of plywood and lattice on the bathroom, whatever dust in the room. Wonderful if there is an electric drill with a tripod that can be installed in the fresh air. But if not, then the above conditions will be allowed to start, and most importantly - finish your first model. All the models presented in these photos - from Roman galleys to the armored cruiser - are built on this technology and precisely in such conditions. Fifteen years ago, after the injury, suddenly, being isolated from the environment, I had to remember the children's hobby and try to turn it into a profession. Re-reading the fair amount of literature, I realized that none of the technician there was not suitable for me. As a result of many samples and experiments, there was a technology over the years to work independently from any external circumstances. However, with all the availability of the method, to acquire some more before the start of the work still does not hurt. Most importantly, of course, from what and how it will be built. And what is needed in order to make a vehicle from wood with your own hands:1.1

Materials

Array - i.e. Ordinary wood necessary primarily for making a mast. For the mast column, pine rails of the corresponding cross section are best suited. Birch is worse: it's harder to choose smooth segments and more difficult to process. Thinner parts of the mast - walls and flagpoles, rei, the rest of the masts are perfectly obtained from birch speakers for kebabs, which can sometimes be bought in various super-hyper markets. It is worth paying attention to the fact that they are different thickness: there are 3.5 and 3 and 1.8 mm. For the smallest parts well use wooden toothpicks. Other wooden parts; In theory, in the theory, made from the array, is easier and better obtained from the "torque" in 2-3 layers of veneer of the respective rocks.

Glue. Optimally - furniture PVA. Verified - Novgorod PVA-M "Acron". If so is not, it will come true. The main thing is that in the appointment it was indicated "for gluing" products from wood, and not "for gluing" - this keeps much worse. Buying, ask to try - glue, squeezing with a clothespin, two pieces of veneer, wait 30 minutes, while driving and try to break. If glue is good - veneer breaks, but not glue. In addition, apply a smear to the surface - a matte must form, but absolutely homogeneous, transparent, without a dairy shade, film. The Estonian PVA is good, but it sometimes does not stick to the dried up, falls off. Those. Starting to work with some one, better with it and continue. Well, of course, indispensable and ordinary "moment."
Lucky, paints. Varnish is best approaching "Aqua" - i.e. water based. It dries quickly, does not give divorce on paper and cardboard. And, which is essential when working in the apartment, practically does not smell. It makes sense to acquire immediately and colorless, and toned under dark wood. Paints - trusted several options, I stopped on acrylic. Of these, the most necessary is gold. Verified - "Gold Inca". Where there is an opportunity, it is easier instead of staining to stick the above-mentioned colored paper. In general, in the traditions of the Russian model school, staining of models was not very common. Unlike Europe, where they strived for one hundred percent similarity with the original even in shades, in Russia they tried to choose the valuable breeds of wood so that their color would not exactly, approximately, but corresponded to the color of the painted original.

Fabric and threads. Any white cotton fabric is suitable for sails. Naturally, the thinner thread and dense weaving, the better. The main thing is that there is no impurity synthetics, otherwise it will be bad to glue. The same applies to threads. Clean cotton, however, it is difficult to find it now, but if the percentage of synthetics is small, you can also try them. For standing rigging, black threads need, for bike - better beige. In the thickness - all possible numbers will be useful: from the maximum - 10 or even 0, if you manage to find, up to 40 - 50. In the literature, it is sometimes recommended for reliability to tapping a tissue with a weak solution of tea. I tried it - I did not like it: it may, and more expensive, but pure white sails look much more nice. But the threads, if there is no desirable color, it is better to slightly tinker to the wood for the tree.

Wire and foil - It is preferably copper or brass, but anyone will go, even from tubes. Small cloves, plasticine, self-adhesive film, etc. - far from an exhaustive list, new ideas can come to mind at any time in the process of all work.

INSTRUMENTS

In addition to the standard set of tools that do not need comments, such as the plans, pliers, pliers, dumping, clamps on a pair - more and smaller, hammer, hacksaw, chisels, etc., there are several specific things about which it is worth saying separately .Electric drill. If there is an idea to work seriously, without limiting one trial instance, the drill is worth getting any necessarily. It is advisable to choose more powerful - watt 500, no less. Very good, if with a tripod and with adjustable rotation frequency. The useful thing is a grinding disk. Those. Not grinding (it does not hurt either), namely grinding - on the plane of which the skin can be fixed. Piles. Lobzik - useful, although not the essential thing. Metal hacksaw comes in handy rather (albeit for working with a tree). It is good to have two canvases: small and large vapables. Four to five pieces of different shapes and notches should have, but, on their own experience, the main and almost indispensable - flat, small, the biggest, which you can find. It is also nice to have a set of supfile. Its most beloved and necessary knife (in the photo) made himself 25 years ago from the metal canvase. There are no such sale. Without it, there is no work - you can only cut the veneer on the strips only to them. It was longer than five centimeters (!) - he was finished ... so that if you do a similar, then with a reserve in length. Choosing a cloth on the blade, try to bend it: if you stay bent - too soft. If it breaks it - it will come true. From the debris and make. Blade take a larger: to go almost through the entire handle. The rounding at the end of the handle is also not accidental: it is convenient for them to hide the glued (especially on the "moment") details, and just to crate the irregularities.
Pay attention to sharpening - it is one-sided, while the right side of the blade - i.e., if you cut them through the line, leading as a pencil, then the flat side presses the line, and the distribution chamfer is facing the ruler. The corner of the blade is approximately 30, sharpening - 15-20. From the same canvas it is worth making small thin cutters, such as chisels, different widths: 4, 6, 8, 12 mm - although not immediately, but gradually everything will be useful somewhere. You can find on sale Sets for wood thread with semicircular cutters. They, too, sooner or later, but must be needed. Normal shoe. But one more thing will have to do - from a long thin nail or from thick sewing needle (convenient from the machine) on a long (15-20 cm) handle. Well, since now I have seen, the set of sewing needles of different sizes will also be necessary. Costs. It is worth starting a dozen one and a half - all sizes: from 2 to 20mm, different stiffness for different needs. Sometimes instead of a brush for glue with small works, it is convenient to use a thin wire, accumulated to the stick.
Scissors. It is worth having a minimum of two, and it is better three pairs: on a separate for fabric, for foil, and for paper, veneer and cardboard. Sliced \u200b\u200bskin. It is necessary for at least three rooms: from the largest for alignment of the workpiece of the housing for a lining to the smallest for grinding. Well, the average - for intermediate work. Grinding bars for cutters - it's worth starting three pieces, including the smallest dowdow for final finishing.
The little things are necessary, and simply comfortable in the work: inheritance, large tweezers, small pliers with long thin sponges, clothespins, round gum "for money", knitted hook, desktop vice, transparent plexiglass line 50cm long, non-black and brown Markers, wood simer. Yes, there is little that can still come up with a creative approach to the point!
And forward.So, to acquire all of the above, or being sure that you will get the necessary at the right moment, you can, inspiring, start! Where to get the drawings, I will not advise - a lot of literature, the Internet is huge and dynamic - sites are born and dying. And I myself was not interested in this direction, I was not interested in this direction ... In any case, since you got here, then you can get to the drawings. Examine several projects of different ships by comparing their designs, details. Often, the details missed in one set are perfectly represented in the other - for a similar ship of the same class, and vice versa. It is worth reading their stories. Well, when the debut is not the first thing that will fall on the eyes, and the fact that as a result of the selection will like most of all the others - it will be much more interesting to work. Such a model is much more likely to be finished - it is sorry to throw it unfinished ... Well, let's start, of course, from the body.
Author - Dmitry Kopilov
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