To properly install gutters on the roof, you need to take care of this at the design stage of the building. This will make it possible to choose the optimal version of the system, not only taking into account its cost, but also depending on the engineering features of individual structures. Mainly the type of fastening of gutters, there are options for fixing these elements of drains to the crate, and there are options for attaching to the cornice board. The production of works consists of several stages, each of which has a significant impact on the final quality of fastening gutters and their functionality.

It is impossible to properly install gutters without prior planning. What should be done?

Despite the features of roofing systems and differences in, there are general installation rules for all types of structures.

Weir kit

The complete set and structural characteristics of the systems have a significant impact on the methods of installing gutters on the roof of houses.

What are the main elements of a drain?

Element name	Description and features of the installation
	They are used for fastening gutters, can be fixed to the boards of the batten (hooks) or to the cornice strip (brackets). The first (hooks) are made only from a metal strip, bent to give a slope to the drainage system manually during installation. The main feature is the need for installation before the start of roofing, otherwise the first row of coatings will have to be dismantled. It is now considered an obsolete design and rarely used. More often, brackets are used that are fixed to the cornice board or overhangs of the rafter legs. They can be made from plastic or metal. The most modern models have the ability to fine-tune the position of the gutter after attaching the elements to the board.
	They take water from the slopes and direct it to the funnels. They are mounted around the entire perimeter of the building with a slope of up to 4–5 mm per linear meter. The shape can be round or square, there are options for self-manufacturing gutters. Installation is done after the completion of roofing work. To protect the elements from falling snow, snow guards can be additionally used, this is an active method. A passive method of protecting gutters from mechanical damage is to maintain the difference in height between the continuation of the roof projection and the upper edge of the gutter system element. For proper installation, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations of the roof, the parameters of the gutters are selected depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slopes. Simultaneously with these data, you need to calculate the number of funnels. They must have time to pass all the rainwater during peak loads, one funnel per 10 m of gutter is recommended.
	Most often they have an angle of 90 °, but sometimes they are also found with an angle of 135 °. To seal the junctions with the gutter, rubber or adhesive seals are used. During installation, you should pay attention that the distance from the angles of rotation to the brackets does not exceed 10-15 cm. The strength of the system in these places is lower, a more reliable suspension is required.
	They are installed on gutters and direct the water collected by them into vertical pipes. Proper fastening is impossible without preliminary calculation; installation of one funnel for every 10 m of gutters is considered universal. But a specific decision should be made after a careful analysis of the slope area and maximum precipitation in a given climatic zone. Funnels can be pass-through (mounted anywhere in the gutter) and left or right. The latter are installed only at the ends of the system, the design has special plugs, which simplifies the installation process and increases the reliability of the entire system.
	They allow you to change the direction of the water flow and connect several elements of the system to one vertical pipe. They are inserted into a socket type connection, during installation, attention must be paid to the direction of the elements in relation to the movement of water.
	During installation, it is necessary to monitor the distance between the fixation points of the elements, depending on the material of manufacture and the diameter of the pipe, it ranges from 1.2–1.8 m. The type of fixation to the facade wall changes taking into account the materials of its manufacture. Clamps can be plastic or metal.
	They have different lengths, but most manufacturers adhere to the 3 m standard. The diameter is selected taking into account the debit of water, the quantity, installation locations and total length are calculated even before the installation of the spillway system begins.

Gutter prices

drains

The main mistakes in installing roof gutters

Proper installation of the system guarantees not only high efficiency, but also the durability of the operation of drainage systems. Metal products can be deformed from excessive loads caused by gross violations of the installation technology, while plastic ones crack and require complete replacement.

What mistakes are often made by inexperienced roofers?

1. Incorrect gutter slope. To ensure normal water flow, it is recommended to make a slope of 3–5 mm per linear meter. If the slope is greater, then at the end of the slope the gutter is too far away from the edge of the roofing and water does not enter it. If the slope is insufficient or the mounting line of the brackets is not straight, then stagnant areas are formed. Dust and dirt quickly accumulate in them, then mosses grow, completely blocking the gap of the gutter. As a result, the drainage system stops working, the gutter needs to be cleaned. It is difficult and time-consuming to do this, and it is not always possible to correct the mistake made. Sometimes it is necessary to undermine the installed roof, which always has negative consequences in the future.

   

2. Not enough brackets. All structures are designed for the maximum possible bending load, taking into account these data, manufacturers recommend the optimal distance between fixation points. For plastic structures, the brackets should be at a distance of no more than 50 cm, for metal structures this parameter increases to 60 cm. You never need to save on the number of brackets, the cost of several elements is incomparably lower than the price of eliminating negative consequences.

   

3. Incorrect connection of couplings. Due to the violation of technology, leaks appear in these places. Rubber elements or adhesive joints are used as seals. During installation, maximum efforts should be made to ensure complete tightness and high reliability of all connections. Additional brackets must be installed on both sides of the coupling element.

   

4. Violation of the recommended spatial position of the gutter. If we continue the plane of the roof, then it should pass over the rear edge of the gutter at a distance of approximately 20–25 mm. Why exactly these parameters? Only they simultaneously provide a safe sharp snowfall from the roof and full reception of all rainwater. Reducing the gap will cause snow or ice to damage the integrity of the gutter, and increasing it will cause water not to enter the gutter, but to the ground. Another dimension must be strictly observed - the vertical projection of the edge of the roofing should be located as close as possible to the center of the gutter. The permissible deviation cannot exceed 1/3 of its width. Failure to comply with this parameter also causes rainwater to drain past the drainage system.

   

Each type of system has its own minor structural differences, but they only affect the installation technology, and the principles are common to all.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - How to calculate the drainage system?

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Work should begin only after a sketch of the drainage system has been drawn, the fixation points and the number of brackets and clamps have been determined. The sketch contains sections for mounting funnels and vertical drain pipes with all elbows and couplings. The nomenclature and quantity of materials are known, all elements are purchased.

Step 1. Replace the funnel of the drainage system, it should be located at the lowest point of the cornice board.

Before fixing with a bubble level or any level rail, check the correct position of the element. Put a level on the roofing, raise/lower the funnel until its opposite side is set at a distance of ≈ 2 cm from the lower plane of the tool. Mark the places where the funnel is fixed.

Remember that the protrusion of the roof edge should not exceed 1/3 of the gutter diameter. If errors were made during the installation of the cornice (frontal) board or roof, they should be corrected. The best way out is to adjust the position of the board, tear it off and shorten or lengthen the filly of the truss system.

Step 2. Fix the brackets on both sides of the funnel, the distance between the elements is 2–3 cm.

Step 3 Install the brackets for fixing the gutters. In our example, they are plastic and fixed to the cornice board. There is an option of attaching brackets from metal strips to the crate, they must be installed before the roof is covered.

There are two ways to properly mount the brackets.

First.

Second.

The control thread can be pulled with emphasis on the upper surface of the brackets. A specific decision should be made on site, taking into account the location of the elements and the characteristics of the roof of the building.

Slope of brackets 2 cm per 10 m

Practical advice. Well-known manufacturers offer universal hooks for attaching gutters. They are fixed to the crate and have two degrees of adjustment: the vertical position and the angle of inclination. This allows all position parameters to be inserted after the element has been screwed to the truss system and the roof covering has been completed. Metal hooks are also installed up to the roof coverings, but the hooks do not have adjustment, the correct installation process should be done immediately using one of the methods described.

Step 4 After fixing all the brackets, you can proceed with the assembly and installation of the gutter. It is recommended to cut the elements with an ordinary hacksaw for metal or a grinder with an abrasive disc. Clean the ends with a sharp knife, they are easily cut along the line.

Practical advice. To properly install the funnel and connect it to the gutters, use a gas lighter to slightly heat the edges of the cut and, while the plastic is warm, bend it in the right place. Such a simple operation will ensure that the water flows completely from the gutter into the funnel.

On the inside of the funnel there are lines with printed numbers. These marks indicate the optimal position of the ends of the gutters, which corresponds to the air temperature at the time of installation of the elements. Be sure to follow this condition. The fact is that plastics have high coefficients of thermal expansion, if the recommendations are not followed, then there is a risk of swelling or falling out of the funnel.

Important. It is strictly forbidden to glue or use additional sealants to connect the gutters in this type of funnel. Individual elements should be able to move slightly in one direction or another, depending on fluctuations in ambient temperature.

To increase the length of the gutters, special connectors are used, they are glued and snapped into place. You need a special glue, it is sold complete with a drainage system. The swivel corners of the gutters also sit on the glue. Requires at least three strips of adhesive approximately 5 mm thick each. Couplings are put on the gutter and turn until they click. The distance of the brackets to the angle of rotation is not more than 5 cm. In the places where the turns are attached, clamps are additionally installed, they increase the reliability and stability of the assembled units, and exclude the occurrence of excessive bending loads.

Step 6 Install plugs on the gutters, they are also glued with a special compound.

There are options when manufacturers use rubber gaskets instead of glue. This method of sealing is less reliable, rubber parts lose their plasticity over time and leaks may appear in some places. The use of silicone sealants as a supplement is ineffective. Silicone under the influence of moisture and negative temperatures will exfoliate from the plastic in the second year of operation of the spillway system.

If the installation scheme of the drainage system assumes the presence of two ends of the gutters on one slope, then their arrangement is carried out in this order.

This completes the installation of the horizontal elements of the drainage system, you can begin the installation of vertical pipes.

Installation of vertical drainage systems

The complexity of the work is that the vertical outlets have several angles for connecting to the funnel. The number of different turns depends on the architectural features of the building.

Step 1. Measure the distance from the funnel to the wall of the house, pick up two corners and measure the length of the coupling pieces. The missing distance should be increased with a piece of straight pipe. It is cut off with a hacksaw or grinder, the edges must be cleaned of burrs.

Step 2 Glue the upper knee to the funnel, the rest should only be inserted. The upper knee is made non-separable for one reason - in this place it is impossible to fasten the clamp, the knee rests only on the funnel.

Step 3 Mark the locations for attaching the pipe clamps. You can do this in two ways. The first is to beat off a vertical line along the entire height of the house and drill holes for the clamps at the right distance on it. The second is to use a level to mark the installation points of the elements in turn for each clamp, to maintain the vertical position with a level. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, make a decision on the spot, taking into account your qualifications.

Pipe clamp position mark

Step 4 Drill a hole for the plastic dowel, secure the base of the clamp. Work carefully, with excessive effort, the plastic may crack, you will have to replace the element with a new one.

If the wall of the house has a layer of insulation made of foam or mineral wool, then the length of the dowel should be increased so that there is a hole at least 3 cm deep in the solid wall.

Step 5 Insert the pipe into the corner and fix its position with a clamp. Manufacturers recommend installing at least two clamps on one whole pipe section, it will turn out two on each side near each coupling.

There are letters on the plastic clamps. The upper collar is screwed in such a way that the arrow points to the letter "A" on the stand.

The lower clamp is fixed in the “B” position, the arrow should point to this letter. The fact is that the clamp holders have different thicknesses of the thrust surfaces, the arrow indicates a reinforced one, it is in this direction that the main efforts will act.

If, due to the size of the building, it is required to connect two pipes, then a gap must be left in the coupling for their free movement. The width of the gap is at least two centimeters.

Installation work is completed by gluing a knee for water supply to the blind area, to the receiver of the reclamation system or to a rainwater collection tank. Then it is used for irrigation or for other economic purposes.

Video - Proper installation of the drainage system

Drainage from the roof is a system that is mandatory in the construction of buildings. Its main duty is to collect and remove rain, melt water flowing from the roof slopes away from the foundation. Usually, the drainage system begins to be assembled during the construction of the roof structure before the assembly of the crate. Although situations often occur when the roof is already covered with roofing, and the drain has not been collected. An example is the replacement of an old drainage system with a new one.

Before moving on to the topic of the article, let's consider what the elements of the drain are, what materials they are made of today.

What is a drain

The system consists of two main elements:

1. Gutters (trays), which are mounted under the overhang of the eaves.
2. Pipes that are attached to the walls of the building in a vertical position.

An example of a roof gutter system

Additionally, the composition includes:

Gutter system material

More recently, the main raw material from which gutters were made was metal, more precisely, galvanized sheet. Even earlier, gutters were made from ordinary steel sheet, which was painted. The latter gradually went out of circulation. Galvanization is still used today, because the material has a presentable appearance, copes well with natural loads and has good technical characteristics.

Scientific and technological progress does not stand still, and today the question of what to make a drain from means the possibility of choosing from several materials. To pure galvanization, galvanized metal coated with a polymer composition and purely plastic are added. Consider their pros and cons.

Plastic

A big plus of plastic is that the material does not corrode when it comes into contact with water. Hence the long service life. Other advantages of the plastic drainage system include:

• the ability to operate under almost any temperature conditions;
• one hundred percent inertness to ultraviolet;
• presentable appearance, indicated by huge possibilities in terms of color design;
• lightness of construction.

The only thing that plastic products are afraid of is shock loads, under the influence of which they crack and become unusable.

About plastic brackets. It will not be possible to bend them, to give the necessary shape to the mount. In this regard, metal ones are better, they are easier to customize. Therefore, when installing plastic brackets, it is necessary to accurately install them on the frontal board, taking into account the landing site and the height of the roof overhang. True, today manufacturers offer adjustable products in which you can change the angle of inclination using a swivel. A good option, which proved that in the category of plastic brackets it is the most convenient.

Metal coated

According to their characteristics, in terms of service life, the products will not yield to plastic ones. But there is one serious drawback - the polymer layer itself. It is not strong enough and can be easily scratched or peeled off with little effort using a sharp tool. Therefore, it is important not to spoil the protective polymer coating during the installation of the gutter on the roof.

Metal gutter systems with polymer coating

There is no protective layer even on a meager area, you get a defect through which water begins to penetrate to the metal sheet. The consequence is metal corrosion, reduced service life.

Other options

It should be noted that on the market you can find exclusive water drainage systems made of copper or aluminum alloys, titanium and zinc. Firstly, the products are marked by long-term operation of the structure and increased reliability. Secondly, a design approach to solving the problem of decorating the facade of a house. But exclusive gutters are not cheap, so they are rarely purchased by the general mass of consumers.

Bracket types

This fastener on the market is represented by three varieties:

Ways to install gutters

In the section we will not talk about how to properly install gutters. Here we denote the situations that arise during the construction of this system. The first situation is installation when the rafters are installed, but the crate is not installed.

This is a simple, correct option. The brackets are attached to the rafter legs, usually on top of the upper plane, but it is possible from the side, from the bottom, bending the device to the required angle. Side fastening can be used if the thickness of the rafters is not less than 50 mm, the width is not less than 150 mm. Often, the installation is carried out on the first element of the crate at the eaves, which is also considered the correct approach to the construction of the drain.

An example of attaching brackets to rafter legs

If the roofing material has already been laid on the roof and fixed, then the methods for attaching the brackets are as follows::

Rules and stages of installation of the drainage system

Before you install the drain, you need to prepare everything. Buying a drainage system. What is included in it was described above. Now you need to decide on the number of each element.

The number of gutters is determined by the length of the slopes. They have a standard length of 3 m. For example, if the length of one slope along the eaves is 10 m, then you will have to buy 4 trays. The latter must be cut to the required size.

The number of vertical pipes depends on the height of the building, the distance of the drain from the ground and the length of the slopes.. Here are the following positions: the distance from the ground to the end of the drain is 25 cm, the distance between the risers is 12 m. The standard length of one downpipe is 3 m. For example, the height of the wall to the roof overhang is 4 m. Subtract from this size the length of the drain pipe and 25 see to the ground. It turns out the length of the pipe riser is 3.5 m.

A good example of the number of placed drain risers

With regards to the number of risers. The maximum distance between them is 12 m.

1. The length of the slope is 10 m, you can install one riser from one edge and direct the gutters in its direction.
2. The length of the slope is more than 12 m, but not more than 24 m, two risers are installed along the edges of the roof, which means that their total length is 7 m.
3. The length of the overhang is more than 24 m, three downpipes are mounted.

With regards to the rest of the elements of the drainage system.

Dimensions of elements of the drainage system

Dimensional parameters of trays and pipes are an important criterion that determines the effective operation of the entire structure. Because the roof and the drain are united by one factor - water draining along the roof. The larger its volume, the larger the section should be selected elements. Incorrect selection leads to overflow of water over the edges, and these are poured walls and foundations.

There are certain standards that use the ratio of the area of ​​​​the roof slope and the diameters of pipes and trays. They are shown in the table.

Here it is necessary to understand that the selection of the dimensions of the elements of the system depends only on the area from which water is drained into them. For example, the length of the slope is 24 m, which means that 2 risers are installed along its edges. The total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope will have to be divided by "2". It is this parameter that must be taken into account when selecting the dimensions of the tray and pipe.

Instrument preparation

Before you install the gutters, you need to prepare the tools. Depending on the choice: plastic or metal, the equipment of the tool arsenal depends.

So, you will need:

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• perforator for drilling walls for mounting risers;
• screwdriver
• long cord, tape measure, pencil;
• level, plumb;
• pliers;
• mallet, hammer;
• ladder.

It is forbidden to cut metal gutters with a grinder, so it was not included in the list of required tools. At a high speed of rotation of the cutting disc, metal cutting is accompanied by the release of high temperature. This leads to a violation of the protective zinc layer.. This means that the place of the cut is an area that will quickly begin to corrode. With regards to plastic, at the point of cutting with a grinder, the material melts, losing its properties and parameters.

Mounting sequence

Everything is ready, you can proceed to the installation work. The gutter is a gravity-flowing system, so it is important to correctly set the gutters at a certain angle. Its value is 3–5 mm per meter of the length of the gutter structure. For understanding, we denote that one end of a tray 1 m long should be 3–5 mm lower than the other. For example, the length of the roof slope is 10 m, one edge of the gutter structure relative to the other should be 3–5 cm lower.

Gutter slope options

Based on this, marks are made at the corners of the slope, where the places of the two extreme brackets are determined. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the frontal board or nails are driven in, between which a strong cord is pulled. This will be the hook installation line.

How to do it right to accurately determine the installation locations of the two extreme hooks.

1. The first upper one is installed from the lower edge of the roofing material at a distance of 4–5 cm.
2. The exact distance from the nail driven into the designated point to the edge of the roofing material is measured.
3. The resulting size is transferred to the other edge of the slope with the addition of a slope based on the length of the overhang.

Experienced craftsmen do not always use nails or self-tapping screws to install the cord. They immediately attach the brackets, avoiding unnecessary operations. If both end brackets are screwed to the supporting base, you can proceed to the installation of other hooks. It is important to install the latter so that they are oriented relative to the cord with the same details as the first two installed devices.

There is one more thing to consider when installing brackets. The result should be that the edges of the roofing material overlap the gutter by a maximum of one third of its width. It is this arrangement that can guarantee the exact entry of flowing water into the tray without overflowing over the edge.

So, the brackets are installed exactly on the level, you can remove the cord and proceed to laying the gutters.

Installation of a grooved structure

In principle, you can start laying the gutters from any side. It is recommended to start from the location of the downpipes. In this place, two systems will be connected: horizontal and vertical. The element connecting them is a funnel. Therefore, first the gutter is adjusted to the funnel and the place where the hole will be made in the tray is determined.

It is made with a hacksaw. You just need to make a cut at an angle on both sides, taking into account the distance between the cuts, equal to the diameter of the pipe. It is recommended to process the cut edges so that there are no bumps, burrs.

Sawing holes for the funnel and its installation

A plug is put on the extreme chute. This can be done on an already mounted structure. But before installation, it is more convenient to do this. The edge of the grooved part is inserted into the groove of the plug, where a rubber cuff is located inside, ensuring the tightness of the joint. Now the gutters can be laid alternately with overlapping edges of each joint. The overlap size is 5–10 cm. Many manufacturers of plastic trays today offer connecting elements that are 25 cm long gutters complete with rubber cuffs, like those of plugs. By inserting two grooves from different sides of the connecting device, you get a sealed joint.

Exactly the same designs are made and funnels. Using them, there is no need to cut holes in the gutters. The latter are simply connected by a funnel to each other. Simple and convenient.

With regards to fastening the gutters to the brackets. Here are different fastening technologies. Two types are most commonly used:

• clamps with throwing the element through the gutter, used to use ordinary wire;
• clamps that fasten the edges of the gutters, they are flexible and look like hooks.

Installation of gutter risers

The process can be described as follows: the risers are strictly vertical and attached to the wall of the house with clamps. First, clamps are installed. From the center of the funnel nozzle, it is necessary to lower a vertical line along the wall with a plumb line. It is better to beat it off on the wall surface. Optimally - install fasteners of this type at the junction of two pipes, a pipe and a drain.

The first collar is attached to the wall at a distance of 30–50 cm from the ground, taking into account the distance from the drain to the ground and the size of the drain pipe itself. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws in plastic dowels, so holes are made in the wall at the installation points, where the latter are driven with a hammer.

Please note that the clamp should be located below any joint at a distance of approximately 10 cm.

The assembly of the riser itself is the installation of pipes in clamps and their connection to each other by means of a sealant or special connecting pipe elements with rubber cuffs (two-way couplings). In the first case, it is a socket connection, which is often used when assembling a sewer system.

Coupling installation process

If the riser is located far from the wall, then it is connected to the funnel with two bends (elbows). Therefore, first, branches are installed on the funnel to the wall, on which a vertical line is then beaten off with its exact passage through the center of the section of the lower branch.

Sometimes two elbows do not fit together with branch pipes. The reason is the wide overhang of the roof. Between them it is necessary to install a pipe segment, which is cut out of the pipe element of the riser. The distance between the branch pipes is measured, and 3-4 cm are added to the obtained value on each side. The allowances are the connecting edges for entering the bends. Important - it is necessary to correctly connect both outlets through the cut pipe to each other. First, a pipe segment is put on the upper outlet, that is, the elbow pipe must be inside it. Then, a branch pipe of the second elbow is put on the second free end of the pipe section. The first must be inside the second. Both joints are treated with sealant.

DIY Installation Video Instructions

Conclusion

So, we have analyzed the topic of how to properly install a drainage system. Materials for manufacturing, elements and assembly technology were disassembled. Despite the apparent simplicity of the installation process, this is not an easy undertaking. It requires care and precision. The main thing is to accurately mark the location of the gutters. Because it is easier to make a drain, that is, to assemble it, if calculations and markings are correctly performed.

The drainage system is an important part of the architecture, and it must be thought out even in the project. Yes, and according to modern building codes and regulations, it is desirable to install gutters even before installing the final roofing. But in practice, this is not always the case. Also, ideally, the first thing you should decide before buying a gutter system is how exactly you will fasten the gutters: along the eaves, to the front board or to the first row of the batten. But, unfortunately, some modern manufacturers offer brackets that are designed for only one type of attachment - to the frontal board.

Then what to do in such a situation: the roof is already covered and the roofing is laid, if we are talking about metal sheets that are fixed “tightly” or there is no frontal board at all? Now we will reveal a couple of secrets to you!

When the installation of a drain is needed only for finishing work?

A drain is most often fixed exclusively to the frontal board, if the air flow to ventilate the internal insulation is carried out through special holes in the overhang filing - they are also called perforated soffits. This is the easiest and cheapest way to ventilate, although not the most professional, because this is not enough for a good air flow. Therefore, experienced roofers believe that it is more efficient to make air flow through the gap that forms under the crate.

In this case, you will need to place the front board low enough, and fix the brackets for the gutters only on the crate. True, such a system has drawbacks: under the weight of snow and ice, the board can simply break. Based on this, decide which method is right for you.

Also, fasteners exclusively to the frontal board are necessary if the drainage system is installed much later after the construction of the house. For example, you bought an unfinished building (a fairly common situation). And, if you don’t touch the expensive one and it’s not clear according to what specific principles the laid roofing material is, then you can only fix the brackets to the frontal board. In addition, when replacing the drainage system, it also cannot be done in any other way.

And the third point: if you used an anti-condensate waterproofing film, according to the rules, it must be brought to the cornice overhang, and this is also possible only when attaching the drain directly to the frontal board, but not to the crate:

7 Popular Mounting Methods

To secure the gutters and downpipes and you will need special hooks. According to building rules, you can install them in three main ways: in a common boardwalk, if we are talking about a soft roof, in rafter legs and in a windboard of an eaves overhang:

One of the most popular examples:

Method number 1. Fastening to the truss system: raise the cover

Sometimes home craftsmen even count on the fact that after the construction of the roof is completed, they will still be able to lift one or two sheets of roofing and fasten the hooks to the crate. But in fact, it’s not possible to tear off sheets of any coating just like that, because in this case you will have to get rid of one or two rows of self-tapping screws or nails. And in this place you can no longer do without patches, which will nullify the entire aesthetic effect.

But some tricky method is still used in this regard, and its essence is to put special boards under the coating, which allow it not to wrinkle the roofing material and unscrew the mount with pliers. And it does work!

Something similar is often done with slate. There, right into the waves of slate, wooden bars are inserted, which were previously planed along the profile of the wave. Here, the mount for the drain is mounted directly through the slate itself - both the bar and the hook at the same time.

Method number 2. Fastening to the frontal board: we create a reliable support

Fastening hooks to the frontal board is the easiest way if the roof is already ready. Moreover, the frontal board itself is not at all difficult to decorate so that it looks like a separate element of the roof exterior:

For metal roofing, short hooks are needed, from the same material, and it is also better to mount them on metal:

But a light-weight plastic drain can withstand a wooden frontal board without any problems:

Method number 3. Mounting on "crutches": let's go for the trick

If there is no frontal board on the roof at all, then special metal or wooden “crutches” are installed in the wall, and the gutter is attached directly to them using studs or beams:

Method number 4. Brackets in supports

Or the hooks have to be screwed into what is, especially when it comes to small outbuildings:

A

Method number 5. Invisible brackets: grab the gutter from above

In addition, brackets are sold today that are invisible even after installation, because they hold the gutters from above, not from below. Brilliant solution, right?

Such brackets must be fastened in increments of 40 and 70 cm, otherwise, with a greater distance, the gutters can deform under the weight of ice or snow:

Those brackets that are attached to the crate or from above to the rafter leg must first be bent and shaped in order to then perfectly fit them to the slope of the slope.

Method number 6. Adjustable arms: for difficult conditions

You will be interested to know that adjustable brackets are on sale today. It is enough to tighten the screws to adjust them and adjust them depending on the angle of inclination of the slope. This way you don't have to re-check the bending radius of each hook individually.

Look how these brackets are arranged! These are the two main parts that can be shifted relative to each other depending on the required mounting height:

Method number 7. Fasten directly to the roofing

In the most difficult cases, sometimes you have to purchase brackets that are more expensive, but which allow you to install a drain even on a roof where a fragile corrugated coating has already been laid:

Of course, this method is only suitable for regions where it rains infrequently and not in large quantities.

So, to summarize: how reliable the mount will be depends on whether you mounted the gutters correctly. After all, the drain does not have such a task as solving the problem of snow - this should be done by snow retainers and special cable heating.

Technical subtleties of mounting technology

And now we will make a brief overview of the technology of fixing the drain on the finished roof.

How to calculate the required number of drainage elements?

• B is the horizontal distance from the overhang to the ridge;
• H is the height, and C is the length of the roof (all dimensions are in meters).

Here is how to properly install the gutter system on the frontal board:

• Step 1. On the board itself, which was previously installed, mark a horizontal line with a laser at the highest point of the gutter.
• Step 2. Then place a real line, taking into account the slope, which should be from 3 to 5 millimeters per linear meter of the gutter.
• Step 3. Now you need to number all the hooks, and the marking itself should be done taking into account the slope of the gutter. Next, with the help of a hook bender, we slightly change the radius of the hooks.
• Step 4 Install the two extreme hooks, and between them, along the very bottom of the gutter, you need to pull the rope. Install the rest of the mount.
• Step 5. Determine the location of the funnel at the end of the gutter according to their size.
• Step 6. Next, attach the gutter funnel to the board and circle the outline with a pencil. From the edge of the contour to the center, leave a 45 mm edging and cut a hole with a regular hacksaw? or special scissors for metal.
• Step 7. Now bend the resulting frames outward. Insert the grooves into each other. It is important that the front of the gutter is put on correctly so that its spout is inside the curl.

The whole assembly is quite simple, akin to a children's designer.

Gutters and funnels: positioned at the right distance

And now let's go directly to the installation of the gutter:

• Step 1. First of all, we mount the funnel and the gutters adjacent to it.
• Step 2. Fasten the edges of the gutter with self-tapping screws to the frontal board.
• Step 3. We fix the funnel and the gutters themselves until their profiles completely match.
• Step 4. We check the angle of inclination and the location of the brackets.
• Step 5. We install the profile of the gutters on them and dock them together. We close the free ends with a plug.
• Step 6. From the funnel we make a drain and pipes in the wall.
• Step 7. We mount the bracket for the pipe.
• Step 8. We mark the pipe installation path and fasten the already vertical drain elements.

Modern metal drains are interconnected on seals and clamps. Plastic drains are connected in three main ways: on latches with a clip, on rubber seals and by cold welding. The main thing with all this is to take into account the compensation of linear expansion.

Also think about such an element as a special grate for the gutter system. It is needed in order to clean the flowing water from plant debris, which is often washed off the roof - these are needle leaves and branches. After all, stagnant water in winter can turn literally overnight into ice and break the drain from the inside.

Fixing vertical gutters

To begin with, let's take a closer look at how and which wall to properly fix drains. So:

• In the case of a three-layer wall, the holders need to be attached only to the front layer. If its thickness is about 9 cm, then the anchor depth should be 6 cm, and if the thickness is 12 cm, then the anchor depth should be 8-9 cm.
• If we are talking about a two-layer wall, then after it is finished, a hole 6-9 centimeters deep should be drilled in it. It is important that the dowel must pass the second layer of thermal insulation. And only after that you can tighten the mount.
• With a single-layer wall, you need to do this: fix the holder in the wall with screws or a special expansion dowel, but to a depth of at least 6 centimeters.
• But if you are fixing the drains in a wooden frame wall, attach the holder with self-tapping screws to the wooden facade. You can fix all this with a long sharp rod.

It is more competent, of course, to install the vertical components of the drain even in the process of laying the walls, but after their completion such work is quite possible. It is important to know only a few rules:

• pipes must always be installed from the bottom up;
• drill small holes;
• a distance must be maintained between the drain pipe and the wall;
• fix at the bottom a special drain elbow with a cut corner so that water does not fall directly under the foundation.
• Or, replace the elbow with a regular pipe link and bring it to the storm sewer.
wall, you need to purchase a plastic dowel, then drill a hole in the wall to fit the dowel, insert it and tighten the screw that is already attached to the clamp.
• A drainage system is attached to wooden walls using a rod or a special plate with screws. Such a long and pointed rod simply needs to be hammered.
• But if the wall is too thin in the right places, then you will need a long rod, which will be additionally fixed with a plate with screws.

A little illustration will help you figure it out:

And the technology of vertical fastening is quite simple:

• Step 1. Connect the pipes with couplings.
• Step 2 Leave a gap when inserting the down tube.
• Step 3. Under the coupling, mount the bracket with the trunk.
• Step 4 Install the tees in the same way.
• Step 5. Glue the bottom bend to the pipe.

Look at this step by step illustration. In photo No. 11, a decorative nozzle is very clearly visible:

Another important point: the pipe, which is located closest to the corner of the cornice overhang, should be at a distance of 15 centimeters from the corner of the house. You can place it in the middle of the cornice overhang, or right around the corner, already on the end wall.

Thus, you can easily remove the drain pipe from the facade, and your gutter system, which had to be installed on the finished roof, will look inconspicuous and harmonious!

Rains, especially slanting showers, can ruin the walls and foundation of almost any structure. A high-quality and reliable drainage system is the key to the durability of the building. The process of installing a drainage system does not have to be left to professionals. Having studied the intricacies of the work, you can install the drain on your own.

Peculiarities

Systems designed to collect rainfall are a desirable element in the arrangement of any home. Modern housing projects often already imply its presence. The option of creating gutters at the stage of installing the lathing under the future roof is most often used. However, no one cancels the possibility of installing gutters and pipes on an existing roof.

Gutter systems are distinguished by a variety of designs and available materials. For example, not so long ago, systems were made only from galvanized steel. This material was the only available option. Modern products are also metal, but they are covered with polymer compounds. Gutters are also made of plastic.

Each material has its own qualitative characteristics, which are worth considering in more detail. So, Today on sale you can find drains:

• galvanized;
• metal;
• with a polymer coating;
• plastic.

Gutter systems made of plastic have recently become increasingly popular. This is the best option, since the plastic that is used for gutters is not afraid of temperature changes, it is resistant to frost and heat. Plastic pipes are not afraid of corrosive processes. The negative impact of ultraviolet radiation on plastic pipes also does not threaten.

Plastic brackets are usually wide, so they provide a snug and secure fit. The disadvantage of plastic gutters is the inability to bend the structure, as is the case with metal parts. Structures are usually tailored to specific design dimensions. Another significant disadvantage of plastic systems is their high cost.

Metal gutters, equipped with a polymer coating, have a lower price. The operating life of such systems is quite long. External natural influences are also not terrible for such drains. They look quite presentable. However, if the polymer coating is damaged, corrosion often occurs on such structures. It is not difficult to damage the coating, sometimes it happens even during installation work due to conventional fasteners.

The most inexpensive type of systems is galvanized steel options. Despite the cheapness, such gutters are not very popular, because usually they are not aesthetically pleasing. Systems have a long service life, corrosion can only appear with deep scratches. The main positive quality of metal systems is the easiest fitting of parts to the desired configurations.

As for supporting fasteners, they can be sold both as a set with the main system, and separately. The holders must match the shape of the gutter. In this matter, you can also rely on the technical requirements of SNiPs and GOSTs.

Technical requirements

The number of brackets according to SNiP is calculated according to the standard distance between the fasteners, which should be 50-60 cm. To calculate the required number of fasteners, the total length of the system must be divided by this distance. If the building has a non-linear shape, then you can calculate the total in relation to each wall. Corner elements must be counted in pieces, since the drains located at the corners must be adhered to on both sides.

Brackets can be attached in several ways.

1. To the roof truss system. This option is suitable for roofing material that has not yet been laid.
2. To the wind board. This option is the only one in case the ebbs are made of plastic. With other materials, this is one of the possible options.
3. To the last board of the sheathing under the roofing material, if it is solid.

This method is also suitable if the roofing material has not yet been laid. GOST suggests that the brackets should be mounted taking into account the slope of the system created. The easiest way is with metal options, since they can be bent with improvised means.

According to all the same regulatory parameters, the gutter must be placed so that the roof covering ends before reaching half of the gutter. The correct location of the gutter is 1/2-1/3, this will allow the system to capture water even during heavy rain showers.

Normative rules also imply the optimal choice of the placement of the structure. For example, it is not recommended to install the gutter high in snowy regions, as well as on roofs with a small angle of inclination.

If the region of your residence is not snowy, and the roof has a sufficient slope, you don’t have to worry too much about the location of the structure. If a low gutter does not work, then additional snow retainers can be installed. The snow will come off the roof little by little and will not harm the storm system.

In addition to fasteners, it is important to correctly calculate the number of pipes and gutters. It is also worth considering that if the diameter of the system is displayed incorrectly, then it will not be able to divert the required amount of water from the roof, or it will cope, but it will turn out to be unreasonably expensive.

There are certain principles for calculation.

• For surfaces with a total area of ​​​​slopes up to 50 square meters, pipes of 75 mm and gutters of 100 mm are used.
• For surfaces ranging from 50 to 10 square meters, pipes with a diameter of 87 mm and gutters of 125 mm are used.
• For roofs with a quadrature of more than 100 square meters, pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and gutters of 150 mm are relevant.

The project of the drainage system on paper will simplify the task of choosing all the constituent elements. All data on your intended design must be reflected schematically. For this work, knowledge of the types of systems is useful.

Kinds

When arranging a residential building, various drainage systems can be used. The most popular option is attached outside the structure and is a combination of various elements in which water can accumulate. For further removal of moisture, a storm sewer or a well is sometimes equipped. Summer residents install ordinary barrels to collect water, which can later be watered in the garden.

This version of the drain system is called organized, external. However, it is not suitable for flat roofs. Here, the best choice would be a storm funnel, which is usually round in shape. Water enters the drains into the funnel, then goes into the pipes and goes to the sewer. The required number of such funnels in the roof is determined by regional natural factors, as well as the roof area.

The internal drain can work on a gravity system. Also, sometimes they equip a version of the system with a siphon. Such systems require a small number of funnels. In drains, where water must flow by gravity, the flow rate is determined by the angle of the gutters.

Experts identify another type of drainage system, which is classified as an unorganized type. Such a drain is a roof with a properly equipped slope. Moisture freely flows down along it, while the facade of the building does not “suffer” at all. However, due to the fact that water falls close to the foundation, the risk of its destruction increases. This option is acceptable for shed roofs. In this case, it is desirable to make a slope towards the courtyard.

Such roofs are rarely used for residential buildings. According to SNiP, unorganized drains are allowed only on multi-storey buildings. In addition, for the possibility of arranging an unorganized drain, experts calculate the annual amount of precipitation in the region. It should not exceed 300 mm/year.

Balconies should not be placed on the part of the building where the ramp faces. Also, there should be no roadways, pedestrian zones.

The roofing is equipped with a visor with a length of at least 60 cm. An unorganized drain will not provide good protection to residential buildings.

There is another option for a drain, called a drip. It looks like a plank fixed on the pediment or cornice of the structure. The drip is a good protection of the facade of the house from moisture. It works like this:

• water gets on the plate;
• then it overflows into the gutter;
• The sludge then enters the drainage system.

The device of different types of drainage systems is different. Let us consider in more detail the traditional systems of the external and internal type.

Device

The device of an internal drain involves the placement of pipes inside buildings. Such a system does not allow pipes to freeze and is well suited for regions with very changeable weather. The advantage of the system is that the pipes are not visible from the facade, which improves the exterior. A feature of the device is the mandatory presence of drainage or a special place where rainwater enters.

The device of the system requires the mandatory presence of:

• pipeline;
• receiving funnels with a collector;
• special cleaning systems.

Unlike the first option, the external drain is placed on the facade of the building. Most suburban private buildings are equipped with just such a system. Its main convenience is that the drainage device is allowed after construction. With an internal drain, this option will not work.

The advantages of an external device are as follows:

• simple installation;
• simple care;
• there is no need for professional knowledge and skills.

In addition, a variety of materials can be used for outdoor systems.

Material calculation

To calculate materials according to SNiP, the following data is required:

• roof area;
• the amount of average annual precipitation;
• temperature minimum in winter in the region;
• availability of rainwater.

This calculation helps to determine the number of gutters, or rather the total length of the overhangs, which is divided by the length of one gutter. For example, the total length of the overhang is 40 meters. Subtract the length of the corner elements (15 cm per side) It turns out: 12 * 15 \u003d 1.80. Then: 40 - 1.8 = 38.2 m.

The standard length of one galvanized gutter is 3 meters. This means that 13 gutters will be required (38.2 / 3 \u003d 12.7). The number of connecting elements is selected according to the number of joints in the structure. A drawing will help you with this, on which you need to depict a rectangle with schematically located drainage elements. For our example, 18 couplings are required.

The number of brackets for fastenings is calculated based on the total length divided by the standard pitch. For example, for plastic it is 60 cm, and for metal it is 70 cm.

If the system is not closed, and the gutters will be mounted with open ends, then you need to determine the number of plugs. For example, for a gable gable roof, on which the system is mounted in two threads, you need to install four plugs. If the roof is hipped, tent type, plugs are not required at all.

The number of corner elements will be equal to the number of external and internal corners of the house. The number of pipes is chosen in such a way that it coincides with the number of drains, and their length must correspond to the height of the structure. In some cases, curved knees are needed. Their need is determined by the width of the overhang.

A clamp must be put on each section connection. If the pipe is three meters, then there should be two clamps: one on top, the other on the bottom.

The outlet must be located 30 centimeters from the ground (it can be lowered up to 15 cm, but only if there is a collector).

The calculation of the internal drainage is carried out according to the rule - one funnel per 0.75 square meters. The pitch between the funnels is determined by dividing the length of the roof, measured along the longitudinal axis, by the number of funnels. In addition to water inlets, the system will require:

• risers;
• outlet pipes
• release.

For internal drainage, you can choose pipes with a diameter of 100, 140, 180 mm. The length can be 70 or 150 m. The incoming moisture is transferred to the storm sewer. If the drainage system is supposed to be used year-round, then the system is best placed in a heated area.

The internal system often suffers from debris that can enter it from the roof. The protection design is extremely simple - a cap and a glass. This is an auxiliary element, but it copes well with the retention of various debris.

Such an auxiliary device is not required if the internal drain is installed with a siphon. This is a special valve for storm sewers connected to a drain. It keeps the pressure of the water in the pipes. When filling the drainage system, the valve opens, a very rapid release of precipitation occurs. The formation of blockages in the siphon system is rare, it is practically not necessary to clean it.

Installation

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters will be correct if you strictly follow the instructions. It will be more convenient to mount by considering a specific example in detail. According to the example, it is possible to make a drain after laying the roof covering.

To assemble the outdoor system according to this scheme, you will need long brackets for the gutters. The brackets will need to be attached to the bottom board. In our example, the roof covering material is tiles. Therefore, here it is enough to raise the elements of the roof covering laid in this row.

For the effectiveness of the gutter system, it is important to properly prepare the brackets. Fasteners must first be tried on. Please note that the edge of the gutter should not protrude beyond the line of the roof slope. Ideally, about 2 cm should remain between the edge of the hook and the slope line. After trying on, markup should be applied. The first hook in any case should be located above the last.

For fitting, the first hook must be laid to the place of the upcoming installation. A rule or a regular rail is installed directly on the ramp. Measure from the bent part of the hook to the rule about two centimeters. Mark the fold point. SNiP condition - the gutter should overlap the edge by a third. Find a point that meets this condition. Place a mark on the bracket leg.

Find the slope to the water intake. A running meter of a cornice is about 3 mm slope. In the example, there is 12 meters of drainage, which means 3 * 12 = 36. This should be the difference between the first and last hooks. Draw a fold line. To do this, lay out the brackets in the required quantity in a row and draw an inclined line on their legs. Number the marked hooks.

Bend the holders with a special device that optimizes accuracy. A vice can be used for work, but only if the hooks are not coated.

To ensure that the slope is observed, first attach the two extreme brackets. Stretch a control line between them. Fastening of ordinary hooks is carried out according to the marked distance. The main work has been done. It remains to install the gutters and funnel. Carry out another stage of fitting, but already to the gutter, or rather to that part of it, to which the gutter riser will be attached.

To find the exact place to drill, it is better to put a plastic funnel on the gutter.

Mark the hole with a marker and then punch it into the gutter. A hacksaw is suitable for forming a hole. The tool makes two counter washed down. The edges of the cuts and the drilled hole are cleaned with sandpaper. Next, you need to mount the funnel on the gutter and secure it with special latches. Mounting the system to a flat wall is simple, just fix it on hooks and fix the funnel nozzles with glue.

On the roof, the installation of the system begins with gutters with a funnel. Reinforce gutter parts with connectors. It is desirable that the inside of the connectors is also covered with glue. If necessary, the last step is to attach the plugs. They are needed to collect water from pitched roofs with two drains.

The assembly of vertical risers begins with the assembly of the knees. If the construction of the structure has a wide cornice, then there will be more stages. Here again you will need to try on. It is carried out after joining the funnel of the first knee to the nozzle. Attach the lower knee to the installation site on the wall. Use a ruler to measure the distance between the pieces.

Then proceed to cutting the connecting segment. The transition from the drainage system to the drainage system can be located at an angle. Connect the parts with couplings with installed clamps. Do not overtighten the clamps. The drain to the downpipe must be fixed with glue.

Drainage is not necessary if rainwater is to be collected in a storm system. The end of the pipe may be located above the gutter, at a distance of several centimeters from the surface. To prevent the gutters from becoming clogged with debris, it is recommended to cover them with gratings.

• The heavier the material of the pipes, the smaller the distance between the hooks should be. All auxiliary parts (hooks, funnels and plugs) must be installed before the installation of the main gutter line.
• Copper is considered the most durable material for drainage systems. Copper pipes do not react in any way to atmospheric phenomena. The service life of copper parts can be more than one century. However, such a system is expensive. It will not pay for itself if it is installed on a modest house or a simple industrial building.
• Methods for connecting elements are selected depending on the material used in the construction. For example, for plastic, the cold welding method, using clamps, using rubber seals, will be relevant.

• In areas with cold weather conditions, heating of the gutter system can be installed. This pleasure is not cheap, but it effectively prevents icing, and hence the collapse of the entire system.
• It is not necessary to cut metal gutters with an angle grinder, especially if these are elements with a polymer coating. The best tool for cutting gutters is a hacksaw.
• Do not forget about the need for periodic cleaning of the system. Open gutters are easily clogged with fallen leaves, and small debris and dirt get into the pipes. The debris that has fallen into the drain will have to be removed manually. A good pressure of water, for example from a hose, will help in cleaning. There are specialists who will perform this work for a monetary reward.

• It is better to mount the gutter with all connections and plugs on the ground. To lift the system under the roof, you will need an assistant. If a person works alone, then it is better to assemble the system upstairs, under the roof, but this is not very convenient.
• The optimal adhesive for joining PVC pipes is a two-component, based on a polymer compound (the second component is tetrahydrofuran). It is a heat-resistant composition that is resistant to chemical aggressive substances. Hardening of substances is observed for 4 minutes. Glue is sold in containers weighing from 0.125 to 1 kg. The mechanical strength and safety margin of such an adhesive composition are very high.
• For metal, clamps and seals can be used. If you are unable to install the system, then it is better to call professional installers for installation. The work will be done efficiently and quickly.

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is made. There are they from different materials, more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are solid. You can save a little if you collect the drain with your own hands. About the features and order of installation and will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common weirs for the roof are made of galvanized metal. Although they are not as attractive as more modern options, they are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What else is good - if you have the skill of a tinsmith, or just having “straight” hands, you can make a drain from galvanization with your own hands.

If we talk about other metal systems, then two of them belong to the elite category - copper and from an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal gutter systems with polymer coating. At a price they are quite affordable, in appearance - you can’t find fault, in terms of durability - it depends on the manufacturer. If technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of drainage from the roof - from polymers. They normally tolerate ultraviolet, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered a rather high price, especially of European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the category of inexpensive systems.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located around the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly, for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered redundant. Then the gutters are overlapped with an overlap of at least 30 cm, connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Downspouts are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe is required to be curved. To do this, there are maple or universal rings (some manufacturers have). The downpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps that have the same color as the entire system.

From all these elements, a system of the required configuration is assembled. If you decide to buy ready-made elements, and then assemble the gutter with your own hands, the best solution is to have a house plan with dimensions on hand. According to it, you will quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.

Mounting Features

Most questions arise regarding the fastening of brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made to one side. If more, either they put an additional funnel (and drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the gable has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle to both sides.

When mounting a drain with your own hands, they usually do this: they nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed - taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the rest are attached. One recommendation - before forming the slope, check the horizontalness of the line you are targeting. Usually this is either a frontal (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble one is also suitable, but of great length - at least a meter. For shorter ones at longer lengths, you will not be able to navigate.

Number of brackets and methods of their fastening

The number of brackets for installing a drain is considered simple: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. We add one to the resulting figure (the end bracket) and get the required amount for one wall. All others are calculated in the same way. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count by the piece - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of fastening the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, we draw attention to the fact that the brackets are nailed, taking into account the slope created. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place as drains). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the interval 1/2 - 1/3. So most of the gutter "catches" water, which is important during heavy rains.

At what level to mount

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is little snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and mount it where you like. Otherwise, it is necessary to lower the gutter, so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “come down”.

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If it is not possible to lower the gutter below, it will be necessary to install snow retainers on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow melts little by little, and comes off in small fragments without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snowfall looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are laid in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequence of actions. The first has a specially molded groove on the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, securing it with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then alternately pressed into the locks on the front of the brackets.

Two fragments of the gutter must be connected with a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply overlapped with a 30 cm approach (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness between the two gutters, you can lay a strip of rubber, and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel attachment

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues with the installation of funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, stepping back from the edge of the gutter about 20 cm, a hole is cut with a hand saw. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - it is likely that your cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it starts up to the second edge and is fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of downpipes

Downspouts are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotary element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows you to bring the pipes closer to the wall and fix them there. For fastening there are special clamps, painted in the same color as the entire system. They are of different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that fasten the pipe to the wall.

Clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be brought directly into the drainage system (if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drain pipe ends with a rotary element that diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, a do-it-yourself drain is installed, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is laid on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true in tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done in the country and spend a minimum for this? There are several very affordable options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm and more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. As downpipes, you can use the same diameter or a little less. Brackets are more convenient to buy ready-made, but in principle, you can do it yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, see the video.

An even more budget option is downpipes made from plastic bottles. The gutter of them cannot be made normal, but the funnels of the pipe work normally.