Even when planning the construction of a private house, it is necessary to complete a wiring project and equipment for external and internal sewerage.

What should be considered when designing a system, what equipment should such a project include and how to install - questions that we will try to answer in this article.

It is difficult to imagine the construction of a modern private house without sewerage equipment. Even in old houses, comfort levels can be increased by carrying out appropriate work.

Before starting the development of the project, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the Manual MDS 40–2.2000. This is an extremely useful compendium on the development of autonomous engineering networks of a private house with a large amount of requirements, definitions, required and recommended system parameters.

You may also find it useful:

1. GOST 25150–82 - terms.
2. SNiP 2.04.01–85 - for the development of internal sewage.
3. SNiP 2.04.03–85 - for the development of external sewage.
4. SP 31–106–2002, river 5 - sewerage of single-family houses.

In the text of these documents, you can find and clarify controversial or questionable points that arise during the design.

Collection and analysis of initial data for design

The design of sewer networks requires some preparation, which consists in drawing up a technical assignment, even if the work is carried out independently. So you don’t have to redo the work several times.

List of initial data to be prepared:

1. System type: autonomous or connected. To tie into a centralized sewer, you will need documents for the house and permission to tie in.
2. With an autonomous system, you need to decide on the method of disposal (biological station, septic tank, sealed storage, cesspool).
3. Geological data: the depth of soil freezing, the depth of the aquifer, the location of reservoirs, the location and depth of the well or borehole (with autonomous water supply), soil data.
4. Precipitation data (when designing storm sewers).
5. Based on the recommendations of SNiP, calculate the peak load, depending on the number of people living and plumbing equipment. If the residence in the house is seasonal, this is also taken into account in the calculations.
6. Draw up a floor plan indicating the points of drains from the bath, showers, washbasins, sinks, toilets, bidets, washing machines and dishwashers.

Design of internal sewerage

We start designing with the location of plumbing equipment. To reduce the length of sewer pipes, as well as to simplify the ventilation of the system, it is recommended to place them as close to each other as possible, and when placed on different floors, one above the other. Thus, the riser is a vertical section of the drainage system, there will be one in the house. With a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house or in the case when sewage is carried out in the conditions of an existing building, it is possible to equip two or more risers.

Domestic sewerage device

All drains from individual points cut into the riser with pipes with a diameter and slope recommended by SNiP. These recommendations make it possible not to make a hydraulic calculation in most cases. The specified slope value is the minimum. The maximum value is 15 cm / m (except for areas shorter than 1.5 m - more is possible there).

Table. Required slopes and diameters of pipes for draining

device	bias	Distance between central drain and siphon without ventilation, cm	Pipe diameter, cm
Bath	1:3	100-130	40
Shower	1:48	150-170	40
Toilet	1:20	up to 600	100
Sink	1:12	0-80	40
Bidet	1:20	70-100	30-40
Washing	1:36	130-150	30-40
Bath, sink, shower (combined drain)	1:48	170-230	50
central riser			100
Branches from the riser			65-75

Table. Slope values ​​depending on the pipe diameter

Pipes are bred using shaped joints. At the same time, it is desirable that the bends do not consist of one elbow at an angle of 90 °, but of two at 45 ° (or 3 at 30 °). This reduces the local hydraulic resistance, reduces the likelihood of blockage.

Execution of bends: 1 - knee 30 °; 2 - fastening clamps; 3 - overlap; 4 - oblique tee or revision

The upper part of the sewer riser (fan pipe) is brought out above the roof level by at least 50 cm and is open for ventilation and compensation for pressure drops during the period of drains from one or more points. On dead-end risers that do not go to the roof, aeration valves are installed. The lower part of the riser falls below the floor of the first floor, preferably into the basement, and is led out of the house by a pipe of the same or larger diameter.

Sewer system ventilation device: 1 - deflector; 2 - aeration valve; 3 - riser with a diameter of 110 mm; 4 - riser with a diameter of 75 mm

The principle of operation of the aeration valve: A - the valve is closed; B - valve open

Appearance of the aeration valve

Design rules for internal sewerage

For the normal functioning of the system, one should strictly adhere to some rules for the design and arrangement of sewers:

1. The location of the toilet bowl should be as close as possible to the riser (no further than 1 m). The drain from it must be individual, it is unacceptable to connect the drain from another source. All other plumbing fixtures on the floor that drain water into the same riser must cut above the toilet flush tie-in.
2. The diameter of the drain pipes cannot be less than the diameter of the equipment drain hole.
3. The maximum allowable length of a conditionally horizontal section should not exceed 10 m (ideally, no more than 3 m). For long distances, a second riser is organized. The longer the horizontal section, the larger the diameter of the sewer pipe should be, not less: over 3 m - Ø 70 mm, over 5 m - Ø 100 mm.
4. In all cases, the recommended slope must be maintained.
5. On long sections of pipes, both horizontal and vertical, it is necessary to install revisions for cleaning in case of possible blockage.

Design of external sewerage

The main issue in the design of external sewage is the choice of waste disposal method.

Choosing a sewage disposal system

If it is not possible to connect to a centralized trunk, choose one of the options.

Cesspool

It is not intended for the disposal of a large volume of liquid waste from a bath, shower, etc. and is most often equipped only for draining toilet bowls (powder-closet). If, at the same time, the outlet of the sewer pipe outside the house may be below the filling level of the pit (for example, during the period of rains, snow melt, water supply accidents), then a check valve must be installed on the pipe.

Check valve at the outlet of the sewer

Sealed storage

It is a purchased or self-assembled container into which all drains are drained: from the toilet, and from the bath, and from the washing machine. Periodically requires emptying, for which they order a sewage machine. The most budget option in the initial expenses, but requires regular operating costs.

Sealed sewer tank

The storage tank must be equipped with a hatch for revision and pumping out sewage.

septic tank

It is a sealed tank consisting of one, two or three compartments (sections). On the one hand, a branch pipe is provided for connection with a pipe from the internal sewerage of the house, on the other hand, a branch pipe for purified (clarified) water.

According to SNiP, the type of septic tank is accepted:

• single-section, with a volume of at least 3 m 3 - up to 1 m 3 / day;
• single-section, with a volume of at least 15 m 3 - up to 5 m 3 / day;
• two-section, with a volume of at least 25 m 3 - up to 10 m 3 / day;
• three-section, with a volume of 2.5 times more than the daily consumption - more than 10 m 3 / day.

Triple septic tank. Zone A - primary clarifier; zone B - anaerobic reactor; zone C - final clarifier

Due to anaerobic bacteria (bioenzymes that live and work with a lack or absence of oxygen), organic matter goes through several stages of fermentation, as a result of which it decomposes to silt, gaseous substances removed into the atmosphere, and relatively pure water, the final purification of which occurs outside the septic tank in the soil . With a properly selected septic tank, after some time in the tank, a biological equilibrium is established that does not require the addition of bioenzymes.

Soil post-treatment, in the event of a sanitary ban on draining immediately after the septic tank, should consist of installing perforated drainage pipes laid with a slope from the septic tank on a layer of rubble and covered with sand, which act as natural filters. At the end of the channel, it is necessary to equip the ventilation pipe, raising it above the soil level by at least 70 cm.

Scheme of soil post-treatment: A - absorbent trench for sandy loam and sand; B - filtering trench for clays and loams; 1 - crushed stone; 2 - final filling; 3 - absorbent pipes; 4 - filtration sand; 5 - drainage pipes

For sandy loam and sand, it is possible to equip a filter well made of bricks or concrete rings, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of crushed stone with a depth of about 1 m. In this case, groundwater should not be closer than 0.5 m from the lower boundary of crushed stone. The larger the diameter of the well, the longer it will last. The approximate cross-sectional area should be:

• 3.0 m 2 / 1 person - with sandy loam;
• 1.5 m 2 / 1 person - with sand.

Filtering well after a three-section septic tank : 1 - backfill; 2 - concrete pad; 3 - septic tank; 4 - insulation; 5 - brick well; 6 - crushed stone; 7 - sand

In the presence of large areas, low-lying groundwater and a significant amount of post-treatment, after the septic tank, you can arrange a filter field, which is a layer of crushed stone at a depth of about 1 m, covered with sand.

Filtering field after a three-section septic tank: 1 - backfill; 2 - concrete pad; 3 - septic tank; 4 - insulation; 5 - crushed stone; 6 - sand

Biological filtration station

The principle of operation of the station is similar to a septic tank, but aerobic bacteria and microorganisms (requiring oxygen for life) act as a fermentation catalyst. Due to the higher rate of oxidation, the decomposition of organics occurs faster, and therefore the capacity of the station can be more compact than that of a septic tank. For the vital activity of bacteria and maintaining a high fermentation rate, air is constantly supplied to the tank through a compressor, which requires a constant supply and energy costs. As for a septic tank, long-term downtime of the station affects its operation negatively.

Biological filtration station with aeration tank: A - receiving chamber; B - aerotank; B - secondary sump; G - sludge sump; 1 - deflector; 2 - compressors; 3 - airlift pumping water into the secondary sump; 4 - airlift pumping sludge into the sump; 5 - airlift pumping contaminated water; 6 - overflow hole; 7 - coarse filter; 8, 9 - aerator

Since fats, detergents and detergents inhibit the vital activity of both anaerobic and aerobic bacteria, sometimes drains from different sources are separated. From the kitchen and from the washing machine, water is removed to a storage bin for periodic removal, the rest of the drains are sent to a septic tank or a biological treatment plant. Other combinations of treatment facilities are also possible - in several stages, for a deeper degree of purification.

Permissible distances

All external sewer channels must also be carried out with the recommended slope. The arrangement of treatment facilities should take into account the location on the site and beyond of water intake points, utility and residential buildings, perennial plantations, and reservoirs.

Permissible distances are determined on the basis of SNiP and depend on the capacity and type of treatment plant.

Permissible distances: 1 - utility yard; 2 - cellar; 3 - well; 4 - septic tank

Sewer installation

After the development of the project and the purchase of all necessary materials and equipment, it is time for installation. Perform this work before the start of finishing, in order to make adjustments during the start-up period of the system and to be able to hide the piping.

The inner pipes are diluted according to the developed scheme, maintaining the necessary slopes and equipping the risers with a ventilation system. Particular attention is paid to connecting the toilet, avoiding long leads, turns and any resistance in the way of the drain into the riser. All drains from sinks, bathtubs, etc. are carried out through siphons - this way you will avoid an unpleasant smell from the drain holes. If the pipes are sewn into boxes as a result of finishing work, provide for opening inspection hatches.

When working with pipes, they need to be cut and connected: for example, as shown in the figure.

For the laying of external pipes and the installation of treatment equipment, all earthworks are carried out at the first stage. Accurately maintain the specified distances and slopes, and when organizing soil after-treatment - the thickness and area of ​​​​backfill layers. It is difficult to do this work alone, and sometimes it is simply impossible. For example, installing a heavy septic tank or biological treatment plant, installing concrete rings, etc. may require special equipment.

When connecting pipes that can heat up in the summer, leave small (up to 10 mm in length) gaps between the pipe and the socket for thermal expansion or elongation due to ground pressure. The junction of the sewer pipe with the entrance to the sewage treatment plant must be sealed and strengthened - it can be done with a strong rope soaked in grease.

In conclusion, watch useful videos with tips on laying and docking the sewers of a private house.

Video 1. Laying sewer pipes

Video 2. Docking pipes with different sections

Is it difficult for you to imagine your private house or cottage without autonomous water supply and sewerage? Agree that a well-maintained household is many times more comfortable for living than a building devoid of all amenities. But you do not know where to start and how to implement your plan?

We will help you deal with this issue - the article highlights popular schemes and options for arranging a sewer system. The stage of planning, selection of a treatment plant and the procedure for performing work are considered in detail.

Contrary to popular belief, do-it-yourself sewerage of a country house can also be perfectly equipped. If you correctly design and build a system, then it will serve no worse than a professional one. For a better understanding of the material, we have selected diagrams, thematic photos and videos with expert advice.

"Conveniences in the yard" can satisfy only if we are talking about a summer cottage without running water, where the owners appear occasionally and not for long.

Work on the improvement of a residential building primarily involves the installation of water supply and sewerage. They are designed at the same time. If the water is already connected, then the sewage system is “customized” to the existing network.

When choosing a sewerage scheme for a residential building, there should be no mistakes. An incorrectly assembled network will not work or problems will arise during its operation (+)

Experts remind you that the work on laying external sewer pipes starts from the tie-in point into the centralized sewer or from the septic tank and moves towards the house.

Installation includes several stages:

1. A trench of a pre-calculated depth is dug. It is advisable to immediately maintain the desired slope. Pouring a finished trench is impractical. This is quite laborious, given the need for additional tamping of the bottom.
2. A pillow of sand is poured. The height of the structure is 0.1-0.15 m. The sand is well shed with water, after which it is carefully rammed.
3. Pipes are laid on the prepared base. The presence of a given slope is checked.
4. A layer of sand with a height of about 0.1 m is filled up. The backfill is again spilled and compacted.
5. The soil is backfilled.

During the laying of external sewage, it is necessary to remember the need to equip manholes. They are placed at all turns and in areas where there are differences in depth. In addition, such structures are also installed on straight sections every 25 m.

Image Gallery

The design of water supply and sewerage is the development of a layout of pipelines and plumbing fixtures for installation work. A well-planned complex creates a comfortable environment in the house and does not require repairs throughout the entire period of operation. How to draw up a sewer project, we'll talk in our article.

Features of designing a home sewer system

Pictured is a sewerage project at home

During the construction of a private house, it is necessary to resolve issues related to the drainage of effluents from plumbing fixtures in the house to a septic tank or central sewer system. Therefore, before purchasing and installing equipment, a system design should be developed.

It is needed for several reasons:

• Sewerage, like other engineering systems, is mounted taking into account building codes. The plan must indicate all the parameters that allow you to correctly build the structure: dimensions, tolerance, slopes, etc.
• Without a diagram, it is easy to get confused when laying a route and placing plumbing equipment. As a result, time, effort and money are wasted. The consequences of unsystematic assembly will be blockages, an unpleasant smell in the house and other troubles. Therefore, when designing sewers, SNiP should become your reference book.

Before you start designing a sewer project, find out the following:

• Sewerage type - local or centralized. To connect to a centralized one, you will need permission from the local authorities for a tie-in. In the autonomous complex there is a septic tank into which waste is drained.
• Information about the depth of soil freezing in your area, groundwater level, soil type. They will help determine the amount of earthwork and the need for insulation of the outer part of the highway.
• Information about the amount of precipitation, allowing to decide the need for stormwater drainage.
• The maximum volume of drains, which depends on the number of people living in the house and the types of household appliances. It affects the size of the septic tank.
• A list of plumbing fixtures in the house and the wishes of the owners for their installation.

Development of a sewerage scheme

For a country house, two projects are being developed - for internal and external drainage. The diagram of the inside shows the location of pipes in the house, through which dirty water is diverted from plumbing fixtures. In the diagram of the outer part, you can see how the drains enter the septic tank.

Design of internal sewerage

The internal sewerage of the house is an extensive network of pipelines from plumbing fixtures and various mechanisms to a common line that directs effluents to a place of disposal or temporary storage. It is characterized by a complex device and high labor intensity during installation.

Designing an internal sewage system, start with the placement of plumbing fixtures: sinks, washbasins, faucets, toilet bowls, washing machines, etc.

It is also necessary to show the distance from them to the riser, the diameter of the supply pipes, the method of fixing plumbing and the option of connecting to the main. The number of pipes will decrease if they are installed close to each other. In multi-storey buildings, it is recommended to place the equipment one above the other, which will allow the use of only one riser.

Photo of pipes and fittings for internal sewerage

For wiring and connecting individual parts, the following products are used:

• Pipes- polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride and cast iron. Metal products have been used for many years, but today they are successfully replaced by plastic ones. They are characterized by a long service life and high performance. Gray plastic pipes are installed in the house.
• knees- used to turn the line at an angle other than 90 degrees. If necessary, use two products at 45 degrees. A smooth change in angle will reduce the likelihood of system clogging. Elbows are connected by pipes with extensions and rubber seals.
• Elbows and tees- connect cuts with the same diameter.
• Couplings- used for joining products of various diameters.
• Clamps- for fixing the line in the design position.

When designing a water supply and sewage system, find out the one-time drain of each plumbing device, by which you can determine the diameter of the supply pipe. Inside the house, products are used that are shown in the table:

Purpose of the pipe	Diameter, mm
Connection to sink and bidet	30-40
Bathroom connection	40
Branches from the riser	65-75
Riser and taps from the toilet	100
Connection to other plumbing fixtures	50
Supply pipe longer than 3 m	over 75
Pipe to septic tank	over 100

Horizontal sections must be sloped in accordance with sewerage design standards. They depend on the diameter of the product:

• Diameter more than 15 cm - 0.8-1 cm / m;
• Diameter 8.5-11 cm - 2 cm/m;
• Diameter 4-5 cm - 3 cm/m.

Such angles of inclination allow the drains to move independently under the influence of gravity.

Place the toilet bowl as close as possible to the riser, but no further than 1 m. Other devices cannot be connected to the pipe between it and the toilet bowl. Place drains from other appliances above the toilet connection. The dimensions of pipes and adapters should not be smaller than the opening on this plumbing fixture.

Install the clamps for fastening the line with a certain step, depending on the diameter of the product. It is generally accepted that the distance between them should be equal to 10 pipe diameters. When installing a route with a diameter of 10 cm, clamps are placed after 1 m.

Connection diagram of a toilet bowl with a sewer system

Show the location of the riser on the diagram. This is a vertical pipe to which drains are supplied from horizontal sections. Most often it is placed in the toilet. Pipes are connected to the riser using oblique tees and crosses. Direct products in this case do not apply. The horizontal section of the sewer pipe in the house should not exceed 10 m (the optimal size is 3 m). If the line is very long, lay a second riser. It is buried in the basement, and then joined to a horizontal pipe that connects the internal and external sewers. Next, the water moves into the storage tank. In a large house, 2-3 risers may be needed.

When designing sewer networks, do not forget about the revision for cleaning the system, they must be on vertical and horizontal branches in an accessible place. If the structure is hidden in strobes, make openings 40x40 cm. Otherwise, you will have to break the wall to eliminate the blockage. Openings for cleaning the line must be located in the riser on the upper and lower floors.

Scheme of installation of internal sewerage

That part of the basement through which the outlet pipe is stretched must be separated by a wall. To conduct it through the foundation, a steel pipe is embedded into the wall, the diameter of which is 2-3 cm larger than the diameter of the sewer. The gap is filled with insulation.

Note! In one-story houses, a riser is usually not made. Drains move to the horizontal part through pipes and corners.

Internal sewerage must be ventilated, for which the risers are connected to the atmosphere with special pipes. They are removed through the roof and protrude above it by at least 0.5 m. A weather vane cannot be placed on the ventilation system, but it is allowed to mount an umbrella. The hood should be located at a distance of more than 4 m from windows and balconies. It must not be connected to the ventilation pipes of the house. If these conditions are not adhered to, an unpleasant smell will spread throughout the house. Products that do not go to the roof are closed with aeration valves. If errors are found in the sewerage project, the installation of the system will have to be repeated.

Design of external sewerage

In the photo, pipes and fittings for external sewage

The typical outdoor structure is a straight line leading to the silo at the lowest point of the site. It is allowed to change the direction of the route, but at the place of the turn it is necessary to build a manhole.

When designing an external sewage system, problems often arise with the local system, because. it must have a storage device. There are several types of such septic tanks, which are selected depending on various factors: groundwater level, number of residents, funds on the user's account, etc.

In the photo, types of septic tanks for sewerage

Consider a brief description of each design:

1. Cesspool. Small tank with no bottom. It is used in houses in which 1-2 people live. Usually there is waste from the toilet.
2. Sealed storage. A container for collecting sewage, which must be periodically cleaned. On the diagram, show the dimensions of the pit and its arrangement. You can purchase a ready-made tank (for example, a eurocube) and install it in a pit. Often the walls are finished with brick or concrete formwork. Also mark the road along which the vacuum truck will drive up to the storage tank for cleaning.
3. septic tank. Multi-section drive with cleaning properties. After it, the liquid is discharged into the ground. A filter field should be built next to the septic tank or a well should be located for post-treatment of wastewater. On the diagram, be sure to show its dimensions, as well as the composition of the working layer. If the soil does not allow a soil filter to be built, a third waste storage tank will be needed. It must be installed in a place where a sewage truck can easily drive up.
4. Biological treatment station. A device for high-quality water purification from impurities. After it, the water can be used for irrigation.

When designing a sewerage system, be sure to consider the following:

• The number of people living in the house, on which the size of the septic tank depends. The dimensions of the device are determined based on the value of 200 liters of water per person per day. This volume must be increased by 3 times and add a margin if the house has a washing machine, dishwasher, bathtub.
• The depth of groundwater. It is forbidden to build a cesspool or a septic tank with a drain if the groundwater is closer than 1 m from the surface.
• The location of the septic tank on the site must comply with SNiP. Basic requirements: place it at least 1 m from the border of the site, at least 5 m from the road, at least 20 m from the house, at least 30 m from the source of drinking water. The composition of the soil also affects its location. The more sand, the further away from the building.
• Place the pipes in the trench with a slope of 2 mm/m. For turning, it is recommended to use two 45 degree angles instead of one 90 angle. This reduces the hydraulic resistance and the risk of blockages.
• Drainage outside the house is assembled from pipes with a diameter of at least 150 mm, red or dark orange. Such dimensions are used in gravity systems. You can also use a corrugated product with a diameter of 200 mm.
• In places where the highway turns or increases the slope of the route, provide inspection wells with revisions. On horizontal sections, they are made at a distance of 10-15 m. The diameter of the viewing window is 70 cm.

To supply sewage to the drive, you will need a trench, which must also be applied to the drawing. Ditch dimensions:

• Width - recommended 20 cm.
• Depth - below the level of soil freezing for a given area.
• Tilt angle - no more than 7 mm/m.
• The bottom of the ditch is covered with a mixture of sand and gravel.

When designing a sewer located outside the house, keep in mind that plastic pipes are afraid of ultraviolet radiation. At a temperature of -10 ° C, plastic becomes brittle, so they must be insulated if they are located close to the surface.

sewerage design price

You can develop a sewer system project with your own hands, but in this case there are no guarantees that the system will function correctly and last for many years. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to specialists in engineering systems.

It must be borne in mind that only organizations licensed for this type of work can do an external sewerage project with a connection to a centralized system.

Design work includes several stages. The price of the work is determined at the stage of preparing a feasibility study for the sewer system. At this stage, the user submits his requirements to the contractor and forms tasks that should be taken into account in the documentation.

When determining the cost of sewerage design, the following factors are taken into account:

• Waste disposal method. There are two options for removing industrial water - through the central sewer or using septic tanks. In the first case, the cost of the project increases several times, because you will have to coordinate the documentation with city services and pay for their services.
• The purpose of the building, its shape, area, number of storeys.
• For a private house, the area on which it is built, the composition of the soil, and the distance from the central sewer line (if any) are important.
• The complexity of the project and the wishes of the user, which affect the complexity and complexity of design work.
• The number of plumbing fixtures and mechanisms that use water, as well as their location in the house.
• Sewer type. It can be self-flowing or pressure.
• Additional services. Often organizations offer a service to support the installation of sewerage, during which the compliance of the work performed with the design documentation is monitored. If necessary, the developed scheme can be adjusted on the spot.
• Scope of work. The standard set of documents included in the sewerage project includes: an explanatory note, a floor-by-floor sewerage layout indicating the location of plumbing fixtures and other equipment, a plan for the location of the elements of the sewer system outside the house, detailing the connection of the main components, a sewerage scheme in axonometry, decoding symbols on the diagram (Hardware Specification). At the request of the customer, part of the documents can be omitted and the price of the sewerage project can be reduced.

Below is the estimated cost of these works. The price is indicated for 1 m 2 of the room.

Sewerage design price in Russia (Moscow):

Sewerage design price in Ukraine (Kyiv):

How to make a sewer project - look at the video:

As you can see from the article, designing a house sewer is a rather laborious process that takes a lot of time. There are no special requirements for its design, you can make a sketch on paper or draw on a computer. The main thing is to display all the elements of the highway, taking into account the requirements of SNiPs for sewerage.

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Private houses are no longer perceived as something exclusively rural. Today, such buildings are equipped with all amenities and communications. Often, these systems are calculated at the design stage of the entire building, but it is often necessary to install communications in an already built house. In any case, the design of sewer networks is the very first task, the implementation of which ensures high-quality and consistent actions in the future.
Before you make a sewer project in a private house, you need to understand some aspects of the sewer system, on which the type of construction will depend:

1. The presence or absence of the ability to connect to a centralized sewer system.
2. Stock volume. This parameter depends on the number of residents living in a private house.
3. The frequency of use of sewerage. They can live in a private house permanently, or they can appear on short visits (for example, if it is a country house).
4. The depth of soil freezing in a given region. The indicator determines the depth at which pipes should be laid and treatment facilities installed.
5. Depth of soil water. Some types of sewer systems cannot be installed if the groundwater level is too high.
6. Site relief. A standard sewerage project in a private house involves the movement of drains by gravity, which is ensured by the difference in heights at the exit from the house and the end point. If the terrain does not allow for such an effect, then it will be necessary to equip a pressure sewer.
7. Type of local treatment plant. When choosing a suitable design, you need to think about how the sewage truck will drive up to it, and whether additional elements will be required.
8. The number and type of plumbing installed in the house.
9. The location of the pipes. This refers to the type of their installation - open or closed. The open one ensures easy maintenance of the system, while the closed one looks much better in aesthetic terms.
10. Type of water supply on site. The presence of a well or well will seriously affect the sewer installation process.

Standard sewer design

A qualitative design of a sewerage system is an axonometric diagram, which shows all the elements of the system with footnotes and corresponding explanations.

The diagram must indicate:

• quantity of materials and their dimensions;
• the location of plumbing, piping and the location of the riser;
• all sections of pipelines with bends or turns;
• location of the pump (when using a pressure sewer);
• the route of laying pipelines and the location of all external sewage wells.

So the sewerage project is being carried out, the drawing of which provides for the display of all objects.

Internal sewerage system in a private house

The elements of the internal sewer network include risers, distribution pipes connected to them and plumbing fixtures. The collection of wastewater from plumbing is carried out by small diameter pipes installed under each appliance. Further, the water moves into horizontal pipes, through which all drains enter the riser and are transported to the external sewer.

When equipping the internal sewage system, it is necessary to follow certain rules that should be provided for by the project:

When connecting plumbing to the pipeline, it is necessary to use curved devices - siphons, which provide the structure with water seals. The principle of operation of the siphon is quite simple: there is always a certain amount of water in the curved part, which prevents the sewer odor from entering the living room. See also: "".

According to the regulations, pipes of the appropriate diameter should be used for different types of plumbing:

• a sink or bidet can be connected with pipes with a diameter of 30 to 40 mm;
• 50 mm pipes are used to connect a bath or shower;
• when connecting the toilet, it is necessary to take a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

The diameter of the pipe for the riser is also selected depending on the situation:

• A 100 mm or 110 mm pipe is necessary if the structure is mounted in a two-story house, on the second floor of which there is a toilet;
• if there is no toilet on the second floor, then the riser can be made from a 50 mm pipe.

The pipe between the toilet and the riser must be shorter than one meter, and the outlet pipes from other plumbing fixtures must be shorter than 3 meters. If such a distance cannot be maintained, then it is necessary to take pipes of a larger diameter. Be sure to equip the ventilation system, both external and internal. See also: "".

Riser and ventilation system

The riser is an important component of the sewerage system, so the sewerage project in a private house should pay special attention to its arrangement.

In addition to the riser itself, the structure must also have a ventilation outlet, so the rules for installing this element of the system are as follows:

1. As practice shows, the best place to install a riser is a bathroom, since this allows you to minimize the distance between the riser and the toilet.
2. There must be an inspection hatch on the central pipe of the riser, through which, if necessary, the system is cleaned. It is desirable to install a hatch on each floor.
3. The structure must be equipped with sound insulation. Mineral wool or plasterboard sheathing works well as a solution to this problem.
4. Ventilation is extremely important for sewers, and the riser allows air to enter the system. To do this, the upper part of the riser is displayed above the roof or under the roof. The pipe hole should be closed with a deflector to prevent various dirt from entering it.

The part of the riser brought to the roof is called the fan pipe. Usually it is installed at a slight angle, and the distance from it to windows and balconies should be at least 4 m. If desired, the fan pipe can be equipped with a ventilation valve. From below, the riser is connected to the external sewer line, and the drains move further through the system.

Design of external sewerage

The design of a sewerage system in a private house should reflect not only its intra-house part, but also located outside. All elements of the system located outside the building are called external sewage.

The simplest option for arranging external sewage is to connect to a centralized sewer network - in this case, the amount of work is minimal. The problem is that not all villages have central sewerage, so most homeowners have to take care of the sewerage themselves.

There are two main types of systems that are used in the case of an independent solution to the problem:

1. Local treatment facilities. Such systems provide wastewater treatment, after which the illuminated water can be discharged into a reservoir or used for technical needs. The cost of arranging a treatment plant is high, but the result is worth the money and effort spent.
2. Waste storage tank. In fact, this design is a conventional storage in which waste is constantly collected, and after a certain period of time they must be disposed of.

The choice of the appropriate type of system depends on the specific requirements, which are clarified at the design stage. For example, septic tanks are much better suited for permanent residence and average volume of drains. If the fluid flow is low, and residents are in the house infrequently, then an ordinary drain pit is much better suited.

Rules for the creation of external sewage

There are certain norms and rules that must be followed when arranging sewer systems. Their observance will allow you to create the highest quality system that does not create problems for its owners.

The list of rules looks like this:

1. The sewerage outlet and the external pipeline should be located at a greater depth than the depth of soil freezing during the cold period. This is due to the fact that the pipes can freeze and the system will stop working. In some regions, even additional insulation will not save the situation.
2. Autonomous treatment facilities should be installed at a certain distance from the building or other objects located on the site.

   It all looks like this:

   The drain pit should be located no closer than 15 m from the building;
   - overflow wells are installed at least 12 m from the house;
   - the septic tank can be installed at a distance of 5 m from the building;
   - biological treatment stations are mounted just 3 m from the house.

   The distance from the well or well to the drain well must be at least 20 m, and from the water supply line - at least 10 m.

3. The main pipeline of the external sewer must have a constant slope, which is calculated in the same way as in the case of the internal sewer. It is desirable to add a small margin to this value, approximately 20-25%.
4. Pipes must be as strong as possible, since they have to withstand the load exerted by the soil layer. It is best to choose reinforced corrugated plastic pipes.

Compliance with these rules will allow you to create the highest quality construction, which will ensure the drainage of waste from the building, and will not create problems for residents.

The street toilet with a cesspool is gradually becoming a thing of the past. A new house and even a small cottage should please the owners with comfort and amenities normal for the 21st century. The device is a completely affordable and safe event for the building, if you approach the design wisely and use modern materials and technologies. When building a house, the drain system is laid at the design stage, along with other engineering communications, but it is quite possible to organize the construction of a bathroom with an urban level of comfort in an old house.

All private houses can be divided into two categories - those that can be connected to a centralized city or village sewer, and those that cannot. The progress of work and the arrangement of communications inside the premises for these cases will be the same, the only difference will be in the organization of wastewater disposal.

General principles for installing sewerage in a private house

In principle, the sewerage in a private house, as in a city apartment, consists of a vertical riser and pipes of a smaller diameter, through which drains from a sink, toilet bowl, etc. flow into it by gravity. Then the wastewater flows into large-diameter horizontal pipes, and from them into the centralized sewerage system or adjacent autonomous treatment facilities.

When planning a sewer in a house under construction, it is worth having the kitchen and bathrooms nearby, preferably near the place where the sewer goes outside. If the house is two-story, then the bathrooms should be located one below the other in order to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation of the system and its subsequent maintenance.

In a large house with a large number of bathrooms, with a complex sewer system, it is rational to install a sewer pump. A pump may also be needed if the site has absolutely no slope.

When designing sewers, the following are also taken into account:

• site landscape - wastewater flows down and the septic tank or cesspool should be at its lowest point,
• the type of soil, its freezing and the height of groundwater - this determines the depth of the external sewage pipes and the choice of treatment facilities

Material selection

At the present stage, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride is the best option. They are inexpensive, easy to transport and install, and do not require a welding machine to assemble them. In addition to pipes, you will need connecting elements: elbows of various configurations, fittings, tees, inspection hatches. The joints are additionally treated with a sealant.

The diameter of the pipes depends on the volume of wastewater and the number of devices connected to the system. In any case, the diameter of the pipe from the plumbing fixture must be equal to or greater than its drain pipe. The diameter of the pipe for the riser should be from 100 mm if a toilet bowl is connected to it, and from 50 mm if there is no toilet bowl. The length of the pipes from the device to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and from the toilet - 1 m. If this distance needs to be increased, then the pipes are taken with a larger diameter.

Pipe installation and plumbing connection

Before assembling the system, it is better to draw it in detail or design it in a computer program. All horizontal pipes of the internal sewerage should go at a slope from the device to the riser at the rate of 2-15 cm per 1 m. blockage prevention.

The toilet is connected to the vertical riser separately to avoid emptying the siphons in the plumbing when draining the water. Moreover, the remaining devices must be connected above the toilet to prevent drains from entering them.

Sewer risers on each floor in the lower part are supplied with inspection hatches. For sound insulation, they can be wrapped with a layer of mineral wool or closed with a plasterboard box.

Sanitary fixtures are connected to pipes through a U-shaped siphon, the lower part of which always contains some water. Fetid gases from the sewers cannot pass through this barrier. Some sinks and bathtubs come with a siphon already installed, others will require an additional purchase, toilets have a built-in siphon.

The riser is connected to the external pipes by means of horizontal pipes of the same or large diameter, located in the basement, basement or under the floor. Such pipes are also equipped with inspection hatches (mandatory on turns). When connecting them, you should avoid right angles and complex turns. If the pipe lies in the ground or an unheated room, then it must be well insulated. At the point of exit from the house, all sewer pipes are collected together and through a hole in the foundation they are joined to the external sewer.

Sewer pipes are attached to the walls with clamps. Additional fasteners are installed near the tie-in points in the riser, connections and transitions.

sewer ventilation

A large amount of abruptly drained water, for example, from a toilet bowl, moving along the pipe, creates an area of ​​​​discharged space behind it. In the absence of air entering the system, water from the siphons of plumbing fixtures along this pipe leaves, and an unpleasant odor appears. For this reason, the sewer system must be equipped with its own ventilation.

For riser pipes, they are extended to the roof, the upper end does not close, but is reliably hidden from precipitation and debris. You can do it differently, an aeration valve is installed at the top of the riser, which does not release odors, but conducts air inside, which prevents the air from being discharged in the pipe.

Outdoor sewerage

Outside the house, it is also optimal to use polymer pipes. For their laying, a trench is dug to the depth of soil freezing, a sand cushion is poured on its bottom, and then pipes are laid at a slope of 2-3%. If it is impossible to ensure a sufficiently deep occurrence, then it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipes.

Inspection hatches are installed at the place of connection to the house and near the docking with the central sewer or autonomous treatment facilities. It is advisable to install a check valve in the pipe. It will protect the house sewer from the ingress of sewage from the outside, for example, when the cesspool is overflowing, and from the penetration of rodents through the pipes.

Wastewater treatment plant

An autonomous sewer at the end may have:

• cesspool,
• biological treatment plant.

Each of these options has its advantages and disadvantages, but, in general, a cesspool can be recommended only for cottages where they do not live permanently, or for small houses for 1-2 people. The biological treatment plant is expensive, but after its installation, maintenance and its emptying will have to be resorted to extremely rarely. A septic tank is the best option, you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself.

Properly designed and installed sewerage will make living in your own home even more comfortable.