From this article you can find out what features a manual wood router has: the main types of tools, their capabilities and technical parameters, as well as the components necessary for work. The text contains recommendations that will not only help you decide on the choice of a suitable hand router, but also effectively use it in practice.

Wood carving with a manual milling cutter is not only done by professional carpenters. The capabilities of this tool will be useful to furniture makers and decorators. The main purpose of the milling cutter is wood processing. Although many modern models are able to cope with other materials.

Consumers can buy a manual router for processing:

• stone of artificial origin;
• plastic;
• composite materials;
• plexiglass;
• non-ferrous metals.

The scope of this tool extends to the manufacture of decorative products and furniture made of wood, carpentry. Crafts created by a manual milling cutter look very impressive. These unique products are widely used in everyday life. With the help of a milling cutter, craftsmen make beautiful picture frames, caskets, children's toys, decorative shelves, etc.

What can be done with a manual router:

• a selection of quarters;
• the formation of such structural details as folds, grooves, spikes, slots;
• edge part profiling (shaped and straight);
• the formation of seats for the installation of fittings and locking mechanisms on the doors;
• decorative wood carving with a milling cutter with appropriate nozzles;
• making holes;
• fitting parts to be connected;
• alignment of contours in a draft way.

Types of wood routers: classification of devices

To decide which router is better to buy for your home, you should familiarize yourself in detail with the existing range of these devices. The choice of device depends on the type of proposed work, their complexity and volume. For example, the need to use a milling cutter in furniture production arises constantly, while in a home workshop such a tool will be required only from time to time.

There are the following types of cutters:

• top type;
• edging;
• lamellar.

Top-type devices can be fixed and submersible. The second option is universal, and therefore the most widely used. For the home workshop, the submersible design is best suited. It is this category of devices that should be considered in more detail in order to decide which router to choose for certain tasks.

Note! Lamella milling cutter is used to form grooves on the surface of workpieces. This device belongs to the category of a highly specialized tool that has a small number of functions.

When compared with other types of hand-held power tools, the milling cutter has the simplest design. No belts, gears or other components are used to transmit torque. Nozzles for a milling cutter are established directly on a spindle (an electric motor shaft). Due to this, a set of large revolutions is ensured.

The body part of the electric mill is called the "head". It moves along the guide rods, which are rigidly fixed on the support platform, up and down. When the handle is pressed, the head of the tool goes down. If the pressure is released, the springs will return the structure to its previous position again.

Classification of existing products, their features and specifics of use. Recommendations on the choice of cutting parts for the milling cutter.

How to choose a manual router: an overview of additional features

When buying a router, you should pay attention to the presence of additional features and options that improve its technical or operational characteristics.

If the density of the material being processed increases or the speed of the router along the product increases, the number of revolutions may decrease. To prevent this and keep the indicators at a given level, it is enough to have a system of constant electronics. It stabilizes the rotational speed of the spindle by adjusting the power of the electric motor. This feature will be useful for owners of professional devices. Normal devices don't need it.

The soft start system, as in the Makita RP1800F manual milling cutter, will allow you to increase the engine speed in a smooth mode. This eliminates the possibility that the equipment will make a sharp jerk during switching on. As a result, the service life of the tool is increased, since its nodal parts are not subjected to regular, albeit short-term, overloads. The operation of the milling cutter becomes safe, and the possibility of damage to the workpiece at the initial stage of processing is also excluded.

The wood router overload protection system will prevent damage to the device if the temperature of the winding on the electric motor exceeds a critical level. Depending on the model of the device, it can manifest itself in different ways: in the form of a light indication that serves as a signal, or as an automatic function that turns off the power. As a rule, such a system is provided in professional routers, which are designed for continuous work in intensive mode.

Protection against accidental start is another useful feature. Regardless of the cost, most routers are equipped with this option. There is a corresponding button on the body part of the tool. The voltage supply to the motor winding will only be carried out if it is pressed simultaneously with the start key. As a result, the possibility of unintentional switching on of the device is eliminated.

Note! TO The safety button not only prevents unintentional starting, but also locks the trigger in the “on” position. This function will be useful when using a router table for a manual router.

The choice of a manual milling cutter, taking into account design features

When choosing a hand router, you need to pay attention to the quality of the support platform or sole. This element can be made of cast or stamped metal. Cast constructions have a clear geometry, so that they perfectly adhere to the work surface and provide high quality work. These tools include the manual wood router Makita RP0900. It has a cast aluminum sole. Stamped platforms are equipped with inexpensive routers designed for domestic use.

Be sure to make sure that the lower plane of the platform is covered with a plastic overlay. Most often, this part is removable, which allows you to replace it with a new one when wear occurs. Attention deserves the size of the opening in the sole. This hole limits the diameter of the cutters that can be mounted on the tool. A sole with a small opening will not be able to install a large cutting nozzle.

Since the head of the tool moves along the guide rods, which are placed vertically, it is very important that the movement of this element is easy and smooth. If the design has distortions and backlashes, the use of the router will be difficult. The same applies to excess resistance that may occur in the process of moving the node vertically.

The depth of immersion of the cutter in the tree is controlled by the stop. It looks like a metal rod, which rests against the platform on the platform and does not allow the head of the device to fall below the set level. To set the level of penetration, it is enough to move the stop rod down or up. For this, a special screw is provided in the design.

To perform several passes, gradually increasing the depth of the cutter, you will need a multi-stage turret. It is a platform mounted on a platform and having several steps of different heights. A vertical rod rests here, which limits the depth of passage of the cutter.

Note! In some cases, the turret does not have steps, but bolts. For example, the Interskol FM-67/2200E manual router has three adjustable screws and one fixed base. Thanks to this, the device simultaneously has both coarse and fine depth settings.

Choice of accessories for a handheld router

The milling cutter is used for rough fitting of products. The accuracy of the parts performed depends on the quality of the tool and the experience of the operator. To achieve the desired result, additional devices are attached to the router, which simplify the work with this device.

No job can be done without removable cutting attachments. With the help of them, you can make dovetail, straight, rounded, T-shaped and other types of grooves and recesses with a router. There are many options for these nozzles.

According to their purpose and design, they are grouped into categories:

• edging;
• grooved;
• figurines;
• combined.

A device such as a parallel stop, also called a side stop, is used to process a surface parallel to the edge of a wooden workpiece. Thanks to him, it becomes possible to move the tool at an equal distance from the edge. A pair of rigid metal rods and screws are used to fix the stop. The quality of the result obtained depends on how firmly the structure is installed. The material for the manufacture of the stop is stamped and cast metal. Removable plastic pad prevents contact of this element with the workpiece.

The guide bar is another accessory for straight line milling. Unlike the rip fence, this element allows you to thread at any angle with respect to the edge, as well as at any distance from it. The tire has the form of a profiled ruler, which is fixed on the workpiece with the help of clamps. A special shoe is attached to the tool. He guides the router, moving along the grooves of the bar.

Masters use a ruler for a milling cutter in order to carve along a radial line. It is indispensable in cases where you want to make a round tabletop. On the one hand, the ruler-compass is fixed in the sole of the tool with screws, on the other hand, it is fastened with a pin through a hole formed in the workpiece. It should be in the center of the circle.

Helpful advice! To keep the cut area clean during operation, it is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner that is connected to the router using a nozzle.

Choosing a manual wood router: consumer reviews

Before you go to the store to buy a router, it does not hurt to get acquainted with the opinions of consumers about certain manufacturers, as well as specific models. The opinion of buyers who have tried the tool in operation will allow us to weed out devices that have flaws that can only be identified during operation.

Consumer reviews can be found on the forums or on the websites of online stores:

“Not so long ago I got an Aeg MF 1400 KE 411850 router. For a home workshop, such a tool is just right. The device is very quiet. Even under heavy loads, it is no louder than a vacuum cleaner. In one pass, I can easily do edge work. For greater efficiency, I had to buy a table for a manual router. And I did the installation of the tool myself, which made me very happy. The cutting depth is very easy to adjust.

I have not had to work with panels yet, but I think the tool will cope with this. Thanks to the video tutorials, I already use the wood router to the fullest. Therefore, I find this model a suitable option for beginners.”

Igor Ivashin, St. Petersburg

“I wanted to buy a small tool for small jobs. My choice was a manual milling cutter for wood Interskol, the price of the FM-40 / 1000E unit is more than acceptable - only 4100 rubles. Having a small weight, the design develops sufficient power. I didn’t notice a small backlash right away, but considering the cost, I can’t call it a significant drawback. When I tried the router at home, the tool showed itself well. Let's see what happens in time."

Sergey Leibovich, Moscow

“A few years ago, I thought about creating a workshop in the garage. Among other things, I bought a milling cutter. The purchase of the instrument cost me almost 20,000 rubles. But, despite the high cost, the manual wood router Makita 3612 C completely beat off its price. This is the most reliable and indestructible tool that has ever fallen into my hands. The only thing missing from this model is the ability to fine-tune the height. The rest of the instrument is good.

Evgeny Novokshanov, Yekaterinburg

Choosing the best manual wood router: the price of popular models

For consumers wondering which handheld wood router is best, prices are not the last thing, as the size of a personal budget can act as a deterrent for most buyers.

Instrument model	Power level, W	Position in the ranking	price, rub.
Bosch GMF 1600	1600	1	33600
Makita RP1800F	1800	2	19420
Hitachi M12V2	2000	3	17500
Skil 1840 LA	1300	4	5950
Bosch GKF 600 Professional	600	5	10900
Makita 3709	530	6	5250
Hammer FRZ710 PREMIUM	700	7	7500
DeWALT DWE 6005	600	8	12620
Makita PJ7000	710	9	15000
Bosch GFF 22 Professional	670	10	36500

Helpful advice! To increase the comfort of using the tool, it is advisable to buy a milling table for a manual router or make it yourself. It will allow you to easily and quickly work with the device, without being distracted by holding the workpiece.

How to make a do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router

Any master can independently make a table for a manual router, video materials and ready-made drawings on the network are enough for even a beginner to cope with this task.

For work you will need:

• wooden bars with a square section (4 pcs.);
• plywood and chipboard;
• fasteners (hinges, bolts, nuts, etc.);
• jack;
• metal profile;
• steel plate 6 mm thick;
• aluminum guides;
• movable carriage-stop, which will serve as a guide;
• milling cutter

Instructions for making a table for a manual router with your own hands

For the table, you will definitely need a drawing indicating the position of the parts and their dimensions. Supports are twisted from the bars and scraps of chipboard of the appropriate size, which will serve as legs for the table. To increase the rigidity of the structure, horizontally install plywood connecting panels. On the right side of the table, cut a hole where the start button on the router will be displayed.

For the manufacture of countertops you need to take chipboard. This part must be lifting, so you need to install hinges. You will also need to make an additional support base. The base of the table for a manual router is best made of plywood sheet, 15 mm thick. Next, in the countertop, you need to cut a groove designed for the guides of the movable stop. A metal profile should be installed here. To make it convenient to move the workpiece along the table during operation, it is advisable to use a movable stop carriage. Instead, a guide from a saw is suitable.

For the manufacture of a longitudinal stop, you need to take chipboard. To ensure the mobility of this element, perpendicular grooves should be cut in the upper part of the stop, after which it should be attached to the table top with clamps. A small groove is cut in the middle. It will be used to dispose of chips and other particles that are generated during the milling process.

Then you need to assemble a box of thin plywood with a hole designed to connect the vacuum cleaner through a hose. This machine will deposit chips and dust. The box is fixed behind the perpendicular stop. After that, a 6 mm thick metal plate is screwed to the countertop so that their levels match. This is where the router will be installed.

Note! When fixing the plate, you need to carefully monitor that its edges do not protrude above the countertop. Otherwise, wooden blanks will cling to them.

The tool is attached to the bottom of the plate by an aluminum sole. For fixing, you can use bolts for which you first need to make holes. This method of fastening is convenient for changing nozzles and saves milling depth. Using a car jack, you need to design an elevator for the router. It allows you to control the height. You need to remove the handles from the router and screw aluminum guides in their place, which subsequently need to be connected to the jack.

How to work with a manual wood router: video instructions and recommendations

To learn how to work with a manual wood router, it is advisable to study the device of this tool well and the purpose of each part. Some device parameters need to be adjusted. To adjust the depth of milling, you need to use a scale and a knob. One step corresponds to 10 mm. In addition, you must immediately set the rotational speed of the cutter.

Before working as a wood router, a beginner should definitely get used to the tool and master its capabilities. It is advisable to start with small and medium speeds. Although do not forget that in this mode, the processing quality is significantly reduced. Therefore, the first samples should be performed in inconspicuous areas where errors can be masked.

At the initial stages, it is not enough to learn how to work with a manual router. A novice master must adhere to safety requirements. You need to clearly know where the button to start and turn off the tool, as well as its lock, is located. These elements are very important, because the safety and quality of work depends on them.

How to set the rotary speed for a wood router

The tool setting depends on the characteristics of the material to be processed. The router does an excellent job of cutting composites, plywood and wood. Taking into account the characteristics of the material, the rotational speed of the device is selected. Most often, the technical documentation that comes with the tool already contains the necessary information.

Parameters for adjusting the speed:

Cutter diameter, mm	Processed material	Speed ​​steps, mm
4-10	Hardwood (oak, beech)	5-7
12-20		3-4
22-40		1-2
4-10	Soft wood (pine, spruce)	5-7
12-20		3-6
22-40		1-3
4-10	Drywall	3-7
12-20		2-4
22-40		1-3
4-15	Plastic	2-3
16-40		1-2

Helpful advice! The network has a lot of information on working with a wood router, video materials can be used as a visual aid in the absence of experience in setting up and operating the tool.

How to fix the nozzle before working with a router: video and recommendations

Work with a milling cutter begins with the installation and fixing of the cutting nozzle. At the same time, it is very important to comply with safety requirements. All actions are performed only with the cord plug pulled out of the network.

Usually the tool has marks that help to set the cutter. If they are absent, the element is set to a depth not less than its own length. Each router model is accompanied by technical documentation, which describes the mechanism for the correct installation of cutting nozzles. There are no general rules for the tool, since each modification has its own design features.

Some models have a fairly simple structure, others are more advanced. On sale there are modifications equipped with a button that blocks the rotational movement of the shaft. The presence of this part greatly simplifies the process of installing the cutter.

In expensive models of the tool there are special cracks. Therefore, there is no single instruction. To install the cutter on a specific model, you can use the technical documentation provided by the manufacturer, or watch a video of a manual wood router on the Internet.

How to work with a manual router: videos and tips for using the tool

The use of the router will be completely safe, and the result of the work will be of high quality, provided that all safety requirements are met:

• the tool must be sharp, otherwise the quality of processing will decrease and the engine will warm up;
• before starting work, the workpiece material must be well fixed;

• do not try to complete the task in one pass, as a result of this, the loads on both the cutter and the tool as a whole increase greatly;
• the cutter is replaced only on a de-energized device, it is not enough just to turn off the device with the button, you need to unplug its cord from the outlet.

Compliance with these requirements will ensure safety during operation. It is very important to feel the instrument in your hands and get used to it. If the operation of the router is accompanied by strong vibrations, you need to stop and find out the cause of this phenomenon. Sometimes it is enough to adjust the rotational speed, and in some cases it may be necessary to replace a dull nozzle. A novice master can find many video reviews where experienced craftsmen show the process of making individual parts and even full-fledged products.

Wood carving with a manual router: a video review of the process

When working with wood, home craftsmen very often need a manual router. But when you visit a store, it can be extremely difficult to make a choice, since the price range is very large, and the number of brands from various manufacturers can confuse anyone. Of course, if a person is experienced, then he will certainly make a purchase that he really needs. And if not? In this case, a manual wood router should be chosen only after reading this article!

Tool Benefits

First, it has a huge potential for diverse applications. What is meant by this? Take, for example, a jigsaw: with its help you can saw off a piece of wood, cut out some detail from plywood. Everything, in general. But a manual wood router in skillful hands can really work wonders.

What should be guided by when choosing?

First, for the set. Many routers come with only one stop bar, which is clearly not enough for serious work. In some cases, the kit does not have God knows what a convenient pipe for attaching a household vacuum cleaner. With such a tool, you can only mill grooves and do other, not too complicated operations. Thus, if you want to have a truly multifunctional tool on the farm, you should focus on the following indicators:

• Copy rings, set. They are extremely important if you often work with templates. There may be several of them, for different cutters. The principle is simple - the more, the easier it will be for you to work in the future.
• It's just great if a hand-held wood router has the ability to replace collets. Of course, most of the shanks of the most common milling cutters have a diameter of 8 millimeters. But only those that are sold with the tool. Separately, cutters with a tail diameter of 12 millimeters come true.
• A compass designed for processing radius parts can be extremely useful. As a rule, tool manufacturers from the middle price range offer this option as a kit. The compass is simply indispensable when working with tables, for example.
• A support roller is very useful, with which it is much easier to make “bent” parts. It can be attached both to the router itself and to a separate bracket for it.

About power

How powerful should a handheld wood router be? The peculiarity of this tool is that it does not have a reduction gear, so the cutter is actually attached to the motor shaft. Thus, during operation, it is subjected to large loads. The larger the cutter and the deeper the cut, the more serious this load. Simply put, the tool should not work at the limit of its capabilities, and therefore more power should be chosen. It obviously won't be redundant.

So what to buy manual wood routers? Reviews indicate that you should not buy a milling cutter with a power of 1.5 kW or less at all. Even if you use it sparingly, it will overheat mercilessly. If you put a large cutter, then it can completely burn out. Thus, you should buy milling machines with a power of 1.8 kW and above.

Experienced craftsmen say that with its help you can perform almost all the work related to the interior decoration of the house and some creative ideas. Let's continue our choice of a wood router: hand tools must be completely safe for the user. Oddly enough, but in this aspect, the soft start system is extremely important.

RPM control and soft start system

Today, almost all normal power tools have adjustable speeds, but a smooth start is found only in models of the highest price category. Despite the relatively low prevalence, this function is extremely useful, especially when it comes to working with a large diameter cutter. Working with such a tool can be simply dangerous, since when you start it literally breaks out of your hands, which can lead to big trouble.

It is not uncommon for wood cutters to lead to severe injuries: a hand mill is always a source of increased danger, so you should definitely not forget about it. In addition, many home craftsmen, wise with their work experience, strongly do not recommend contacting cheap Chinese models. The quality of the materials from which they are made is sometimes so poor that the mechanism literally begins to fall apart under more or less significant loads.

The method of replacing these same cutters is also worthy of close attention from a potential buyer. Some models have a special unscrewing latch. Others require two keys for this purpose. If working with a wood router is a hobby for you, then there is nothing to worry about, but with daily use, such varieties quickly begin to cause some irritation. And therefore, the built-in lock is still more convenient, with which you can instantly change the cutter.

But some people do not like such hand-held wood routers: reviews say that many manufacturers frankly saved on the quality of the latch, and therefore it can fail almost instantly. So in some cases, the keys may be somewhat more reliable.

A little about the types of cutters

Now you need to figure out what cutters of this tool are in nature. Note that they are divided into two main types: with and without hard alloy soldering. Blades without the use of carbide elements can only be used for making cuts in soft and clean wood. With hardwood and even dense plastic, this kind of tool will not be able to cope: for this you need something more serious. If there is a particularly hard knot or nail in the board, then you can immediately say goodbye to it.

In a word, cutters with tungsten carbides are much more preferable for work. Even having met with a knot in the thickness of the board, he will easily cut it and continue to saw further. The only negative is the characteristics of the cut itself. With such a tool, it turns out to be not too clean, and in the case of softer wood, it comes out somewhat “shaggy”. Experts note that woodcarving with a manual milling cutter is practically impossible in this case, since more or less complex patterns turn into ragged grooves.

Additional functions

lift mechanism. This is the name of the mechanical part, designed for smooth immersion of the cutter. In principle, it is quite simple in itself, but when buying it is better to pay attention to how exactly the depth is adjusted. It is best in the case when there is the possibility of a rough setting of this indicator with its further smooth adjustment. For professional tools, the accuracy is 0.01 mm. You don't have to think it's redundant. So, if the work with a manual wood router is associated with cutting a dovetail mount, high accuracy will be your happiness.

The fixed position of the cutter, judging by the reviews of many masters, will also not be superfluous by definition. It is best when each position is set using a bolt with a locknut. With a simple turn of the mechanism knob, you will adjust the insertion depth of the cutter. It is very important to check if this connection is loose. Please note that even the slightest backlash is completely unacceptable. Firstly, experienced craftsmen say that such dangling will inevitably lead to a sharp deterioration in the quality of the parts you are processing.

Secondly, a dangling connection over time will lead to a weakening of the entire structure, which is fraught with cracks in the body and other unpleasant consequences. If you bought a cheap manual wood router "Interskol", then you will surely come across all this.

Cleanliness is the key to health

Also pay attention to the presence and condition of the nozzle designed to connect the vacuum cleaner. In principle, some carpenters consider such a device a whim, but this is far from the case. The milling cutter is a dusty thing, and there is absolutely no need to accumulate excess debris in the lungs. When choosing, look at whether this nozzle covers the working surface of the cutter completely or partially. If completely, then this is not too good, since there is no visual control over the working part of the tool.

And the transparent material does not solve the problem at all: users say that after a couple of minutes of work, nothing is still visible due to the huge amount of dust and chips. Therefore, it is better to choose models in which it is possible to quickly remove this pipe for cleaning it. According to the experience of professional workers, it can also be said that the best position for the nozzle is from above, since otherwise it is not very convenient to handle it (this is the characteristic of the Enkor wood router).

About thrust bars

As we have already said, support bars are included with all routers, but the options for their execution can vary greatly. The most primitive ones are simply attached to the sole of the instrument with screws. If you need to adjust the position, then they are unscrewed, and the bar moves to the right place. In more advanced cases, they have an additional stop, which is regulated by a separate screw. It is much faster, and the cutter is positioned much better.

Launch buttons

The power button must have two options: protection against accidental pressing and a latch that holds it in the pressed position. It is especially bad when there is no latch: some users tell how they tied the handle of the router with a string or electrical tape when it took a long time to work with complex parts. Here's another tip "from experienced": if possible, turn on the router and vacuum cleaner through surge protectors with on / off buttons. If necessary, you can instantly turn off each of the tools.

Ergonomic indicators

Finally, let's talk about another important quality of the router. It's about the ergonomics of the device. Just try to take it in your hands, feel how comfortable the handles are, whether their material rubs the skin of your hands. Attention! If turning off the device requires removing one hand from the handle, it is better to turn your attention to some other model.

About breakdowns and service

By the way, even before buying a specific router model, it would be nice to know that cheap Chinese tools are consumables. As a rule, they don’t even have spare brushes in their kit, so in case of the slightest breakdown, it will be easiest to purchase a new router without spending time and nerves repairing it. Unfortunately, many professional builders note that the famous Makita has recently “spoiled”, for which sometimes there are absolutely no spare parts.

That is why those people who are going to buy a router for professional use should give one banal, but not lost its relevance advice. We are talking about the presence or absence of a service center of this brand in your area. If it is not, you should pay attention to other manufacturers. In the event of a breakdown during the warranty period, at least you can provide yourself with a replacement tool free of charge.

And now we will describe the characteristics of some manufacturers of routers to make it easier for you to make your choice.

"Interskol"

Not so long ago it was believed that this is a domestic company that assembles tools using a certain number of imported components. Until recently, this was the case: milling cutters were distinguished by their relatively low cost (they still cost no more than 4.5-5 thousand rubles) and good quality.

Today, all production of this brand belongs to the Chinese. Often there are problems with the case material (poor quality plastic). Many people think that such routers are not very suitable for professional work, as there are problems with fasteners and stops, which break relatively quickly.

However, it is a good choice if you are on a limited budget. For home work, the tool is quite suitable, and its equipment is not bad.

Anchor

In principle, an analogue of Interskol. The advantage is the cost: it is rare to see a milling cutter from this company for more than four thousand rubles. The package is also rich, includes a nozzle for a vacuum cleaner, stops, interchangeable collets and keys. The disadvantage is that for this money you will buy a router no more powerful than 1200 W, and we have already talked about what this is fraught with.

Finally, due to the Chinese assembly, the case is not always assembled with high quality.

Bosch

Recently it has been synonymous with true German quality, and even now the brand "holds the bar". Despite the Chinese assembly, the tool is assembled with high quality, there are no backlashes and gaps between the parts. The quality of the materials is excellent, the ergonomics also inspire respect. The disadvantages include the cost (at least 7-8 thousand for a normal model), as well as the high price of components and repairs. In addition, the equipment for this money could be richer (only additional stops and a nozzle for a vacuum cleaner).

Makita

Nice Japanese brand. It is a cheaper analogue of Bosch. It costs a little less (no more than six thousand rubles), is of relatively high quality (better than Enkor and Interskol).

The assembly is excellent, there are no complaints from users. Complaints are only about the high cost of service repairs and spare parts. In terms of equipment, it is no worse than Chinese products, but the quality of parts is much higher. Recommended for both professionals and home craftsmen.

Like this. Using our advice, you will surely be able to choose a wood router with the characteristics that really suit you.

A hand router is an indispensable tool for those who love to make something. If it is equipped with the necessary equipment, then it can be used for processing wood, non-ferrous metals, composites, plastic, plexiglass, artificial stone. In order for a manual milling cutter to become a necessary tool on the farm, it must be chosen correctly.

Types of milling cutters

There are three types of cutter, therefore, before making a purchase, you should decide which one you need:

1. Upper.
2. Lamella.
3. Kromochny.

Milling cutters of the upper type are divided into fixed and submersible. What is a fixed option? This is a motor that has up and down milling depth settings. The position of the cutter must be changed, at this time it is not turned off, which is not an easy task, especially for beginners. The submersible method is more convenient, with it the engine slides along the guides, and the rigid springs are designed to raise and lower the cutter without breaking away from the part. This mechanism greatly facilitates all the work, so even a novice master can easily handle it. Good top-end routers are the following brands: Ryobi ERT1400RV, Protool NRP 90K.

Thanks to the lamella cutter grooves can be made, which connect the parts of the product. Good devices Makita 3901, Ferm FBJ-710 and others.

The edge router is usually used for chamfering and turning edges. The following brands are most popular: Bosch GKF 600 Professional, Makita RT7700C and others.

Important Features

To choose the right hand router for you, you need to explore the main parameters:

Auxiliary elements

In addition to the above characteristics, an important place when choosing a manual router is occupied by other details:

• Very rarely, a milling cutter is used for rough fitting. Usually it is necessary for precise filigree work. Therefore, the role of the guides that are included in the package is important here.
• The router is guided by a parallel stop, which keeps it at an equal distance from the workpiece along its entire length. An important characteristic of it is the material, which must be made of high-quality alloys, and it is also necessary that the place of its interaction with the workpiece be insulated with a plastic overlay.
• Sleeve - a round plate with a small side should be inserted into the recess of the sole. Pay attention to the ease of installation. It is better if the design has a quick-clamping mechanism. Thanks to this, there will be no unnecessary movements in the process of positioning the part.
• Using the corner stop, you can copy the workpiece being processed. At the same time, it is located above the template, while the cutter in operation relies on a special probe. The angle stop can be adjusted, which is very useful.

Having studied the above characteristics separately, and the capabilities of the device as a whole, when choosing a manual router, it is recommended take advantage of these tips:

Features of operation and price

A hand router is not a simple tool, it takes time to get used to it and work with pleasure. The following is some tips for newbies:

The price of milling cutters for wood processing:

• Milling cutter Bort BOF-1080N is sold at a price of 4560 rubles.
• Edge milling Bosch GKF 600 (0.601.60A.100) will cost 12,900 rubles.
• Milling cutter Interskol FM-55/1000E has a cost of 8790 rubles.
• The price of the lamellar milling cutter Interskol FMSh-100/710 is 8000 rubles.
• Edge router brand Makita RT0700CX2 will cost 13,020 rubles.
• Edge router Makita 3708F is sold at a price of 4400 rubles.
• Milling cutter Stomer SER-1600 costs 7800 rubles.

So, from the article you learned that there is a large number of nuances, which should not be neglected when buying a manual router for processing wood or other material. First you need to decide on the goals of buying a tool, because each part of the tool has its own requirements. Each characteristic has an increased importance for achieving the most successful result.

We hope that this article will help you to choose a manual router with knowledge of the matter. As usual, we do not limit ourselves to a simple enumeration of the instrument's functions, but we try to provide the reader with maximum practical information, we try to reveal the reasons for choosing certain characteristics.

What can a milling cutter

The laurels of the inventor of a full-fledged milling machine belong to the American Eli Whitney, who received a corresponding patent in 1818. As is the case with other outstanding machines, a clear breakthrough was preceded by centuries of technical and industrial achievements and even ready-made design solutions. The first milling cutters and the first milling devices on a wooden frame (with a muscular drive) were used in Germany / Austria at the turn of the 17th-18th centuries. Whitney's improved technology was based on the rotational movement of the working blade and the translational movement of the workpiece, it was originally intended to improve the quality and productivity in metal processing (and now there is no alternative to it, in terms of accuracy at least). A little later, similar machines began to be used for working with wood. Only in the second half of the twentieth century was there a technical possibility to carry out milling with a hand-held electric tool - a lightweight compact router appeared, selflessly adored by millions of wood craftsmen.

Despite the fact that this machine seems to be very complex - in fact, the router, in a sense, is one of the most uncomplicated electric tools. Unlike other units, here the equipment is fixed directly to the motor shaft (spindle), so the design is free from the presence of gears, belts, and gearboxes. The power plant (head) of this unit can have serious power, comparable to stationary machines, but the main focus of all the developers was on the high speed of the tooling, direct transmission allows you to accelerate the cutter to impressive speeds. Any milling cutter is equipped with a mass of auxiliary devices designed for precise feeding and productive sampling - all kinds of stops, clamps, guides, templates. Here the most serious requirements are imposed on the functionality of these elements.

Not only wood is subject to a manual milling cutter, without any problems (with special equipment) you can “talk” with plastics, non-ferrous metals, plexiglass, composites, artificial stone, and so on. Depending on the purpose and some design features, there are several types of this tool (edge, fixed, rod, specialized - cutting, for inserting locks, for drywall, for tiles, lamellar, tenon cutters ...), but the most versatile and commonly used is the movable rod submersible milling cutter In this case, the machine head moves up/down along the guide rods, which are rigidly connected to the support sole. Thus, the cutter is strictly vertical, smoothly immersed in the material of the workpiece being processed to a predetermined depth, until the upper movable part touches the adjustable stop. After that, the operator moves the tool in a horizontal direction, and the main work is done by the sharp edges of the rotating cutter.

Furniture makers, carpenters, builders-finishers have appreciated the merits of the tool and will not refuse such an assistant for anything now. It is difficult to call a milling cutter a wide specialization, but many of the operations that are performed with its help may seem unusual. Let's try to list the main ones:

• quarter sampling;
• curly or straight edge profiling (table top, stair tread);
• drilling holes, including for dowels;
• production of twisted / spiral and longitudinal grooves on cylindrical and conical blanks (legs, balusters);
• rough grinding;
• decorative woodcarving, engraving (volumetric - sculpture, or on the plane - fresco);
• arrangement of grooves, folds, slots (for connecting furniture elements);
• flush fitting of furniture laminates;
• cutting work, rough alignment of contours (creating a workpiece);
• production of seats (for locks and canopies, corners, fittings);
• cutting of various forms of spikes for connecting / splicing parts;
• production of bindings (connection of perpendicular elements of windows, doors).

Technical characteristics of the milling cutter (electrical component)

The upper part, also known as the "head", also known as the "head part", is mainly a motor with handles and a collet clamp. Here we will talk about the power characteristics of the router and the electronic filling in this chapter.

A router characteristic such as power consumption can indicate the overall performance of the unit. In other words, by having more watts under the hood, the developers allow you to install a larger cutter and make it possible to make a faster feed and a deeper pass without overheating the windings. However, high power entails a significant increase in the weight of the product and its dimensions, and high torque does not quite correctly coexist with many "delicate" equipment. On this basis, milling cutters are divided into several classes: light (up to 700 W), medium (700-1500 W) and heavy (over 1500 W). Some manufacturers did not grind and, to complete the range, offered models with a power of 2.3 kW, for example, DeWalt DW626 or Makita RP 2300FC (cutting depth 70 mm, weight 6.1 kg, speed up to 22000 rpm, collet size 12 mm) . For comparison, the weight of the 900-watt machine Makita RP 0910 is almost half as much and is 3.3 kg, but the working depth is reduced to 57 mm.

Manufacturers “keep” the spindle speed in the range of 20-30 thousand revolutions per minute, “edge trimmers” finish up to 35,000 rpm. It is interesting that the smaller the diameter of the recommended equipment (it depends on the power), the greater the speed a particular router can develop. A large cutter is used with a lower rotational speed, since the speed of movement of a point on the edge of its circle is much higher. A small frequency is needed when processing plastic and metal, so that there is no overheating of the working area and melting of the material. It turns out that in fact we have the following relationship: power consumption / cutter size / processing depth / workpiece material / rotation speed - each of the items affects the others, so its maximum values ​​​​are carefully selected by the manufacturer.

The higher the speed, the cleaner the processing is and the easier it is to work with hard materials. But if you need high accuracy, or the material is more viscous, it makes sense to switch to a lower frequency. It is for these reasons that most routers allow for certain conditions and materials of different densities to preset the rotation speed (Black & Decker KW900E). As a rule, this is smooth or stepwise regulation with a wheel - up to 8 positions. The choice of speed falls on the practical experience of the operator, but developers often give hints by indicating the recommended numbers in passports or on cutters.

Many advanced machines have constant electronics that control the power of the motor to stabilize a pre-set speed (Hitachi M12V2). This helps to compensate for the loss of torque and to prevent a drop in blade speed when the density of the inhomogeneous material changes or when the tool feed pattern changes.

Powerful milling cutters are equipped with a “soft start” system that smoothly accelerates the tool, eliminating a sharp jerk of the equipment and overloading the network under the action of high starting currents (Bosch GOF 2000 CE). Among other things, such a unit will last longer, since its components are protected from periodic shock loads.

If the temperature of the motor windings exceeds a critical level, the overload protection system comes into play. It can be implemented in different ways, ranging from a simple indication of the corresponding LED, and ending with a temporary power off. This option is peculiar only to professional models of the high price range (Bosch GOF 2000 CE).

Bosch GOF 2000 CE Professional

Another useful feature that has become much more widespread is protection against unintentional launch. This is an additional button that must be pressed simultaneously with the main key to supply voltage to the motor. Through this node, the start key can be blocked in the pressed position, which allows you to release the main handle during operation. Many professionals use the lock very often, as they prefer to guide the tool by holding it not by the handles, but by the support platform. Well, to close the topic of the start button, let's mention a smooth trigger, by pressing which you can adjust the speed, "gas". And yet, some routers do not have a familiar key, but are turned on by a slider device.

Mechanical features of the router

Sole

The support platform of a manual milling cutter is made of stamped metal (budget option) or aluminum alloys - this is the most important element of the machine. The cast sole is not unreasonably considered a sign of a high-class tool, as it has a clear geometric shape and a good fit to the base - as a result, we get high quality work (AEG OF2050E). It is on the base support that there are lugs for attaching all kinds of guide devices, a turret stop, and vertical rods are fixed on it.

The lower plane of the support platform must be closed with a special overlay - this element is made either of plastic or of lacquered hardwood. An important point is the size of the hole in the sole (opening), it is obvious that it limits the maximum allowable diameter of the equipment (cutter).

Rod mechanism

Features of the vertical movement of the head part largely determine the functionality and performance of the entire tool. The head moves along two guide rods, this unit functions correctly if the cutter can be lowered smoothly, without the use of excessive force. A serious disadvantage of the base is the presence of backlash and distortion, as well as excessive resistance. This assembly should always be kept clean and lubricated.

The immersion depth of the cutter can be fixed with a lever located on one of the handles, or with a special screw (ideal if fixation is carried out on both rods). In fact, the setting of the snap-out is carried out by a vertical stop, which is set with varying degrees of accuracy. Advanced machines have a preset according to a vertical scale, or a wheel that takes into account even fractions of millimeters (Metabo OFE 1229). The wider, more precise and more stable the adjustment, the more functional and high-quality tool you have in your hands. Some wizards consider the ability to change settings in the course of work a clear advantage.

If you need to make several passes with a change in the depth of processing, you can use a turret stop with several (most often three) steps, legs of different heights. In fact, this is a height-variable counterpart of a vertical stop located on the “head”. The turret allows you to quickly reconfigure the insertion depth of the cutter. If it is made in the form of several threaded bolts, then the steps can be further adjusted in height by screwing or unscrewing them.

In some routers, the upper part (head) is detached from the platform, so that the tool can be fixed in a stationary structure (rack), or used as a straight grinder, heavy duty drill. A milling cutter with special holes in the sole is sometimes mounted on a workbench with the equipment up, which allows you to process small parts (Hitachi M12SA2).

Snap fastening unit

We have already said that the equipment is fixed directly on the spindle. It is fixed with a collet clamp - a special nut is screwed onto a cone (sleeve) with slots and clamps the shank inserted there. The diameter of the collet must match the diameter of the cutter, so it is important to determine the type of cutter used and the allowable diameters. Light milling cutters are designed for shanks with a diameter of 6 mm, machines of medium power can clamp 8 mm cutters, for example, Fiolent MF3-1100E. The most powerful routers generally have collets with a diameter of 12 mm. It is obvious that a large, more “picky” cutter has a more massive tail, and its rotation requires special power characteristics. It is important not to make a mistake with the choice of the correct installation diameter of the cutter, since there are "European" copies on the market with similar numbers (6.35; 12.7), which corresponds to certain fractions of an inch.

Fiolent MF3-1100E

As a rule, it is always possible to install a cutter with a thinner shank into a larger diameter seat, for this you will have to use a special adapter sleeve (replaceable collet) that comes with the kit or is purchased separately. The “replacement” of the equipment should be taken very carefully, here the recommended rotational speed and feed rate of the router must necessarily coincide (with the settings in the tool), otherwise the thin shank may not withstand the load and break.

A high-quality collet securely fixes the shank strictly along the spindle axis and prevents vibrations that break the cutter edges and tool bearings. More successful clamps are those that have more slots, as they better center the cutter (Bosch GMF 1600 CE).

Bosch GMF 1600 CE Professional

To change the cutter, it is usually necessary to use two open-end wrenches, if the spindle is locked with a button or clamp lever, then only one (Sparky X 205CE). The depth of the shank is 3/4 or 2/3 of its length, but in any case, the equipment has a special marking.

Auxiliary elements: stops and guides

Quite rarely, a milling cutter is used to work “by hand” (for rough fitting of a workpiece, decorative carving), more often filigree accuracy is needed. This is where all kinds of devices and guides come to the rescue, many of which are included in the basic package of the product.

A parallel, horizontal stop allows you to guide the router at an equal distance (this distance is limited) from the edge of the part. This element is attached to the sole on its rods, where it is fixed with screws. Reliability of fixation and accuracy of fit (the block may have its own screws / wheels for correction) - these are the main advantages of this unit. In terms of dimensions, it can either be the entire width of the support platform, or consist of two separate short stops. A horizontal stop is made of alloys or stamped steel (budget option), the plane of its contact with the workpiece is isolated with a removable plastic lining.

The guide bar is designed to feed the router in a straight line, but, unlike the parallel fence, it is installed at any distance from the edge of the workpiece and at any angle. In fact, this is a special profiled ruler, fixed with clamps. Instead of a horizontal stop, a special shoe is connected to the router, which walks along the grooves of the tire and guides the tool.

A copy ring (sleeve) is a stamped element, a round plate with a side, which is inserted into the opening of the support sole and forms a kind of stop around the cutter. It turns out that it is possible to drive the router closely with the template, getting a copy of the product, only a little larger. The undoubted advantage of a well-thought-out copying ring is the ease of fixation (quick-clamping design) that does not require centering (Bosch POF 1200 AE), otherwise you have to make additional gestures in terms of positioning the element.

Corner stop allows you to make an exact copy of the part. In this case, the workpiece is located above the template, and the milling cutter is guided by a special probe, which often has the ability to be adjusted.

The compass ruler helps to process the workpiece along the radius, for example, to make a rounded tabletop. The platform of the compass is screwed to the sole of the router, and its leg is fixed with a pin in a hole drilled in the center of the circle. As in the case of the copying ring, it should be taken into account that the working hole of the device will only “miss” a cutter of a limited diameter.

The support bearing located on the cutter serves to stabilize the tool in some types of edge processing. The advantage of this design can be considered the reliable positioning of the router relative to the workpiece, the minus is that such equipment will not be able to align anything, it will repeat the contour of the edge.

When choosing, do not put the high power of the tool at the forefront, especially if manual use predominates (do not forget about the additional weight of a high-torque router). However, for regular work in a stationary position (table, milling stand), high power will be a clear plus.

Pay attention to the presence of speed control, as well as the nature of its implementation - the switch must be in such a place that it is not possible to accidentally shift it. The wheel or slider should move fairly tight or in steps.

Check the actual insertion depth of the cutter, which depends on the design features of the collet. A good option is when the collet reaches the bottom of the base sole, even better if it protrudes beyond the base structure. This characteristic seriously affects the functionality of the product, but in the passports and articles / names they indicate only the stroke of the head, and not its “departure” beyond the sole (“Interskol” FM-62 / 2200E, where 62 is the length of the motor movement in millimeters).

Determine what diameter the cutter can be used in a particular unit - you need to compare its geometry with the diameter of the opening in the support platform, with holes in the copy ring and compass ruler. Don't forget to "recognize" the size of the collet. In other words, we recommend making the choice according to the principle “from the cutter”.

Evaluate the ergonomics of the product. Here it is important to choose the type of handles that suits you, there are many options - pistol, D-shaped, mushrooms. Some lightweight routers even allow you to use a one-handed grip. Regarding the location of the controls, the opinions of experienced craftsmen are divided here - some prefer to have switches under their fingers, others believe that there should not be buttons on the handles. Particular attention must be paid to the placement of the input and the length of the power cord - a short cable seriously affects the comfort of work due to the need for extension cords.

Be sure to test the function of the rod mechanism, the accuracy and reliability of the preset depth of immersion. The head should move freely, but without backlash and distortion, the vertical stop should be effectively fixed in the chosen position, try to find out how easy it is to fine-tune the depth of immersion.

Install all auxiliary elements on the router one by one, check the structure for rigidity, try to identify backlash and “noodles”.

Opt for a tool with a better view of the work area, especially if you often work without stops and guides. Here the size of the opening in the sole, the design of the dust outlet, the transparent casing, the presence of LED backlighting (Makita RP1800FX) are important.

Test the router at idle, under load, at different speeds. Obviously, vibrations and extraneous noise are a sign of a malfunction or poor assembly.

A hand router is an indispensable tool for those who like to make their own hands. Contrary to popular belief, this device is not only for woodworking. In the presence of certain equipment, it can be used for processing plastic, plexiglass, artificial stone, composites, non-ferrous metals. In a word, a universal thing that can provide invaluable assistance, if you know how to handle it. And if the skill is available, then the matter remains small - to purchase the best manual milling cutter.

Historical reference

The creator of a full-fledged milling machine is the American Eli Whitney, who patented his invention in 1818. Of course, such a significant event was preceded by centuries of technical development. The first muscle-driven cutter made of wood was seen in Austria in the late 17th and early 18th centuries.

Whitney improved the technology by applying the translational movement of the workpiece and the rotation of the web. By the way, initially the machine was intended to increase the efficiency of metal processing. A small hand mill appeared only in the second half of the 20th century.

Possibilities of a manual router

If we talk about the capabilities of the router, then the list of skills is quite wide.

• straight or shaped edge profiling (stair tread, table top);
• formation of seats for fittings, locks, corners, canopies;
• quarter sampling;
• grinding;
• cutting spikes to connect parts;
• drilling holes;
• rough alignment, cutting work (blanks);
• production of longitudinal or spiral grooves on balusters, legs, etc.;
• engraving (fresco or sculpture), woodcarving;

• fitting furniture laminates;
• arrangement of slots, folds, grooves (for communication of furniture components).

These are the main abilities due to which the hand router has received enthusiastic reviews, especially from joiners, furniture makers and finishing builders.

Types of manual routers

Milling cutters on the market are conditionally divided into three types: top, edge and lamellar. But which hand router is better and how do they actually differ?

Upper can be fixed and submersible. The first is a motor with milling depth settings by moving the tool up or down. Using it in the absence of experience is quite problematic, because. you will have to change the position of the cutter without turning it off.

The submersible version is convenient in that the engine moves along the guide. Stiff springs provide the ability to lower or raise the cutter without breaking away from the workpiece. Thus, the work is greatly facilitated and even beginners can do it.

Kromochny The milling cutter is used most often for chamfering and turning edges. Lamella the milling cutter is designed to make grooves connecting the parts of the product.

Regardless of the type, the router is equipped with a large number of accessories aimed at productive sampling and more accurate feed - templates, stops, clamps, guides.

How to choose a manual router?

To choose a manual wood router that will work properly for more than one year, you need to pay attention to some important characteristics.

Power

This indicator should correspond to the objectives of the work. It is important to find the optimal ratio between the power and weight of the tool.

It is important!
By power, milling machines are divided into light (750 W), medium (up to 1100 W) and heavy (more than 1200 W). Keep in mind that the power and professionalism of the installation are interdependent things.

For domestic use, there is no need to purchase a professional device. Pretty light to medium.

Speed

It depends on it whether the device will work only with wood or other materials will be “too tough” for it. The number of revolutions varies from 7 to 24 thousand. As for the depth, for some models this criterion can reach 60 mm, although a depth of 30 mm is more than enough for everyday tasks.

Power switch

Many, puzzling over the problem of which hand mill to choose, bypass the switch. But in vain. It must be equipped with protection against accidental activation and have a locking mechanism. If this is not provided, the switch will have to be constantly held, which, of course, is not very convenient. In addition, the blocking will help to avoid industrial injuries.

Collet

Tapered steel collets are recognized as the best. They are ideally suited to the tapered motor shaft. Please note that the collet must be made of hardened steel. Ordinary steel wear out quickly, create rattling during operation, which greatly complicates the process.

Dust extraction

At the moment, almost every manufacturer equips products with a dust extraction gateway. For the highest quality result, this mechanism should be built-in. Installing a gateway sometimes does not have the best effect - visibility worsens. However, when working on a special table, the dust extractor begins to function correctly.

By the way, certain requirements are also imposed on the table for the router. It should not only have secure attachment points and a height adjustment system, but also guarantee impeccable visibility.

Sole

The most important component of the machine, made of stamped metal. A sign of high class is a molded sole. Excellent quality of work is achieved due to a good fit to the base and a clear geometric shape. Base support - the place of dislocation of the lugs of the guide parts, on which the vertical rods are fixed. The sole should be closed with a plastic or wooden lining. No less significant is the size of the hole that limits the diameter of the cutter.

It is important!
High-quality wooden lining is made only from hardwoods.

Rod mechanism

The performance and overall functionality of the tool largely depends on the features of moving the “head”. The head part moves along the rods. This unit works properly if the cutter is lowered without any extra effort, smoothly. The immersion depth is determined by a screw or a special lever. The more precise the adjustment, the better the device.

If you need to make several turns with a change in depth, then a revolving stop with three steps and legs will come to the rescue. The mating part of the stop allows you to reconfigure the immersion force. Well, if it is made in the form of threaded bolts, which, by unscrewing and screwing in, can be changed in height.

Auxiliary parts

The choice of a manual router requires not only taking into account the above points. Additional details matter a lot.

The milling cutter for rough fitting is used extremely rarely, filigree accuracy is most often required. This is where all kinds of guides included in the package become necessary.
The parallel stop is designed to guide the router at an equal distance. It is not so important that it consists of two elements or occupies the entire support platform in size, the main thing is that the stop is made of high-quality alloys, and the zone of its communication with the workpiece is insulated with a plastic overlay.

Sleeve(copy ring) - a round plate with a small side, inserted into the opening of the sole. Pay attention to the ease of fixation - the design must be quick-clamping. This will eliminate unnecessary movements when positioning the part.

Angle stop provides the ability to copy the workpiece. At the same time, the part is located above the template, and the cutter rests on a special probe during operation. When buying, ask if it is possible to adjust it.

• do not chase power, especially if manual use prevails;
• the presence of an adjustable working speed is an undeniable advantage. The switch must be in a position that prevents accidental displacement. The wheel should move in steps, with effort;
• check the immersion depth. It is optimal if the collet protrudes beyond the main structure. In extreme cases, it reaches the bottom of the sole;

• match the geometry of the cutter with the holes in the ruler-compass, copying ring and with the diameter of the opening of the supporting platform. Don't forget to evaluate the size of the collet. In a word, choose according to the rule “from the cutter”;
• appreciate the ergonomics. Choose the most convenient type of handle for yourself, inspect the cable - a short power cord that involves the use of extension cords does not affect productivity in the best way;
• test the rod mechanism, the reliability of the immersion depth. The head should ride easily, without distortions and backlashes. The vertical stop must be firmly fixed in the selected position;
• be sure to install auxiliary components, check the tool for rigidity, try to identify gaps;
• if you are working without guides, then a design with maximum visibility should be preferred. In this case, the size of the sole opening, the presence of illumination, a transparent casing, and a dust extraction are important;
• test the device at different speeds, under load, idle. Vibration and extraneous noise are a sign of poor assembly or malfunction.

• appearance also matters. The range of such products is wide, therefore, in order not to get confused by the multitude of options, you can familiarize yourself with the most popular models online. To do this, it is enough to drive a photo into the search for a manual milling cutter and select a sample that is suitable for design and cost.

Now you know what a router is, what elements it consists of and what technical characteristics you should pay attention to when choosing in the first place. Happy shopping!

How to choose a router: video instruction