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Driver for LED lamp 220 in your own hands. Drivers for LED light bulbs

Herbs in the garden

Modern powerful LEDs are perfectly like to organize bright and efficient lighting. Some complexity makes up the power of such LEDs - powerful DC sources are required and drivers for drivers. At the same time, in any room there is a 220V voltage socket. And, of course, I would very much like to organize the work of powerful LEDs from the network with minimal costs. There is nothing impossible - let's look at the driver circuit for the LED from the 220V network.

Before you begin to discuss specific schemes, I would like to remind you that the work will be carried out with a potentially dangerous to life by alternating voltage of 220V. Development and calculation of the scheme will require at least a common understanding of the occurring electrical processes, the likelihood that when making an error you can get damages or damage, very high. We categorically do not approve of high-voltage work if you feel insecure and are not responsible for possible damage and damage that you can get during the work on the proposed schemes. In fact, it is quite possible that it will be easier and cheaper to purchase and use the finished driver or even the entire lamp. The choice is yours.

Typically, the voltage drop on the LED is from 3 to 30V. The difference with the 220V network voltage is very large, so the downward driver will definitely be impulse. There are several specialized microcircuits for the manufacture of such drivers - HV9901, HV9961, CPC9909. All of them are very similar and from other chips differ in that they have a very wide range of permissible input voltage - from 8 to 550V - and very high efficiency - up to 85-90%. However, it is assumed that the overall voltage drop on the LEDs in the finished device will be at least 10-20% of the power supply voltage. You should not try to power from 220V, for example, one or two 3-6 volt LEDs. Even if they do not burn immediately, the efficiency of the circuit will be low.

Consider the driver on the basis of the CPC9909 chip, since it is the newest of the rest and is quite accessible. In general, all these chips are interchangeable and compatible Popurno (but it will be necessary to recalculate the parameters of the throttle and resistors).

Basic driver diagram Next:


Diagram of the driver for LEDs based on CPC9909 chip

The alternating network voltage must be pre-straightened, for this is a diode bridge. C1 and C2 - smoothing capacitors. C1 - electrolyte with a capacity of 22 MCF and 400V voltage (when using a 220V network), C2 is a ceramic capacitor with a capacity of 0.1 MCF, 400V. CONDENSER C1 - Ceramics 0.1MKF, 25V. The CPC9909 microcircuit in the process of operation generates pulses that open and close the power transistor Q1, thereby driving current through the LEDs. Switching frequency, choke inductance L, Mosfta parameters Q1 and Diode D1 are closely interconnected and depend on the required voltage drop on the LEDs, their operating current. Let's try to calculate the desired parameters of the key details of the scheme on a specific example.

I have a powerful LED. 50 watt power, voltage 30-36V, working current up to 1.4a. 4-5 thousand lumens! The power of the light is a good searchlight.


COB Wetting 50 Watt

For cooling, I have planted it on the cooler from the video card through the thermal paste and the superclaus.

Maximum LED current limit 1a. So

Drop voltage on LEDs -

Current pulsation take equal + -15%:

I d \u003d 1 * 0.15 * 2 \u003d 0.3a

At the voltage of the AC network in 220V, the voltage after the rectifier bridge and smoothing capacitors will be

The driver current is regulated by the RS resistor, the resistance of which is calculated by the formula

RS \u003d 0.25 / I LED \u003d 0.25 / 1 \u003d 0.25 Ohm.

We use a resistor 0.5W 0.22 Ohm in SMD package 2512:

what will give a current 1.1a. With such a current, the resistor will dispel about 0.2W heat and there will be no particularly warm.

The CPC9909 microcircuit generates control pulses. The total duration of the pulse is made up of the "high level" time when the mosfet is open and the duration of the pause when the transistor is closed. Rigidly fix we can only duration pause. The RT resistor is responsible for it. Its resistance is calculated by the formula:

RT \u003d (TP - 0.8) * 66, where Tp is a pause in microseconds. RT resistance is obtained in kiloma.

The duration of the "high level" is the time for which the operating current reaches the desired value - is regulated by the CPC9909 microcircuit. The standard frequency range is within 30-120 kHz. Moreover, the higher the frequency will be, the smaller the inductance of the choke will eventually need. But the more power transistor will be warm. Since the inductance of the throttle (and related to it, its dimensions) is more important for us, we will try to keep the top of the permissible frequency range.

Let's calculate the allowable pause time. The ratio of the duration of the "high level" to the total duration of the pulse - the diversity of the impulse - calculated by the formula:

D \u003d V led / v in \u003d 30/310 \u003d 0.097

The switching frequency is calculated as:

F \u003d (1 - D) / TP, and therefore Tp \u003d (1 - d) / F

Let the frequency be equal to 90 kHz. In this case

tP \u003d (1 - 0.097) / 90,000 \u003d 10 MCS

Accordingly, the resistance of the RT resistor will be required.

Rt \u003d (10 - 0.8) * 66 \u003d 607.2kom

The nearest available denomination is 620k. Any resistor with such resistance is suitable, preferably 1%. We specify the time pause with a resistor with a par value of 620k.

tP \u003d RT / 66 + 0.8 \u003d 620/66 + 0.8 \u003d 10.19μs

The minimum inductance of the throttle L is calculated by the formula

Lmin \u003d (V LED * TP) / I D

Using the refined TP values, we get

Lmin \u003d (30 * 10.19) / 0.3 \u003d 1MGN

The working current of the throttle, at which it is guaranteed should not be included in the saturation - 1.1 + 15% \u003d 1.3a. It is better to take with a one-hour reserve. Those. at least 2a.

I did not find the finished throttle with such parameters on sale. Need to do it yourself. In general, the calculation of inductance coils is a large separate topic. Here I will only leave the link to the solid work of Kuznetsova A.

I used the throttle dropped out of the non-working ballast of the ordinary energy-saving lamp. Its inductance is 2MGN, in the core turned out to be a gap of about 1mm. We consider working current, we get to 1.3 - 1.5a. Not enough, but for the test assembly will go.

The power transistor and diode remained. It is easier here - both must be calculated on the voltage of at least 400V and the current from 4-5a. Fast Schottky diode can be, for example, so - STTH5R06. Mosfet must be N-channel. For him, the minimum resistance in open state is extremely important and the minimum shutter charge is less than 2500. Beautiful choice for the current current - FDD7N60NZ. In the DPAK case and with a current to 1a, it will not be very high. It will be possible to do without a radiator.

When the printed circuit board is wiring, you need to pay attention to the length of the conductors and the correct location of the Earth. The conductor between CPC9909 and the field of the field transistor should be as short as possible. The same applies to the conductor from the sensory resistor. The area of \u200b\u200b"land" should be as much as possible. It is very desirable one layer of the printed circuit board fully diluted to the ground. The RT resistor must be left away from inductance and other conductors working at high frequencies.

The LD output of the chip can be used to smoothly adjust the brightness of the LED glow, the PWMD output is for diaming via PWM.

Here are examples of technical documentation that are implemented.


On this scheme, the current force, and, accordingly, the brightness of the LEDs is smoothly adjustable from zero to 350 mA variable resistor RA1. Also, the diagram presents the nominal and names of the key elements for powering the line of bright LEDs to the current to 350mA.

The scheme involving brightness control via PWM looks like this:


Permissible dimming frequency - up to 500Hz. Pay attention to the very desirable electrical interchange of the control pulse generator (usually, this is a microcontroller) and the power of the circuit. An interchange is made by using optocouplers.

I collected a smooth adjustment scheme by a variable resistor. It turned out 60x30mm fees.


The driver earned immediately and since it is necessary. A variable resistor current is adjusted from 0.1 to the calculated 1.1a. Couple fan where the LED is installed from 3 volts. It rotates completely without sound, while the radiator is heated weakly. On the board after 5 test minutes of operation at the maximum current of degrees up to 50s, the throttle was heated. Its operating current, as expected, turned out to be not enough. The field transistor is also noticeably heated. The remaining details are sucking slightly.


The heart of the future powerful lamp in test start

Wiring of the board in the Sprint-Layout 6.0 program you can take

After some time, the LED with the driver took its workplace in the lighting of the aquarium. Work at 15 hours a day at a current of 0.7a. Lights for aquarium in 140 liters, in my opinion, quite enough. The radiator provided the thermistor and a simple scheme - the cooler turns on automatically and cools the entire design.

Driver for the LED from the 220V network requires attention when designing and assembling. I repeat - 220V voltage is dangerous for life, and almost all parts are under this and high voltage on the driver diagrater.

However, with a neat assembly, a fairly miniature and effective driver can be powered by a 220V television network from a network of 220V, one or more powerful LEDs.



Homemade Driver for LEDs from the 220V network. Schemes ice drivers

Driver for LEDs do it yourself: Simple schemes with description

For the use of LEDs, a specialized driver is usually required as lighting sources. But it happens that there is no necessary driver at hand, but it is required to organize a backlight, for example, in a car, or test the LED on the brightness of the glow. In this case, you can make a driver for LEDs with your own hands.

How to make a driver for LEDs

The schemes below use the most common elements that can be purchased in any radio market. The assembly does not require special equipment - all the necessary tools are widely available. Despite this, with a neat approach of the device, they work quite a long time and are not very inferior to commercial samples.

Necessary materials and tools

In order to assemble a homemade driver, you will need:

  • A soldering iron with a capacity of 25-40 W. It can be used and greater power, but it increases the risk of overheating elements and their failure. It is best to use a soldering iron with a ceramic heater and non-rooted sting, because The usual copper sting is quite quickly oxidized, and it has to be cleaned.
  • Flux for soldering (rosin, glycerin, FKET, etc.). It is desirable to use a neutral flux - in contrast to active fluxes (orthophosphoric and hydrochloric acid, zinc chloride, etc.), it does not oxidize contacts and less toxic over time. Regardless of the flux used after assembly, it is better to wash it with alcohol. For active fluxes, this procedure is mandatory for neutral to a lesser extent.
  • Solder. The most common is the slight-melting tin-lead solder Pos-61. Inhalation of vapors during soldering, but have a higher melting point with less fluidity and seam degradation with time.
  • Small pliers for flexing conclusions.
  • Locks or side cuts for biting the long ends of the conclusions and wires.
  • Installation wires in isolation. The multi-core copper wires from 0.35 to 1 mm2 are best suitable.
  • Multimeter to control the voltage at nodal points.
  • Isol or shrink tube.
  • A small styling plate of fiberglass. It will be enough for the board with dimensions of 60x40 mm.

Textolite Make Plata for Quick Installation

Simply drivers for LED 1 W

One of the simplest schemes for powering a powerful LED is shown in the figure below:

As can be seen, in addition to the LED, it includes only 4 elements: 2 transistors and 2 resistors.

The role of the current regulator passing through LED, there is a powerful field N-channel transistor VT2. The R2 resistor determines the maximum current passing through the LED, and also works as a current sensor for the VT1 transistor in the feedback circuit.

The larger current passes through VT2, the greater the voltage drops to R2, respectively, VT1 opens and lowers the voltage on the VT2 shutter, thereby reducing the current of the LED. This reaches the stabilization of the output current.

The power supply of the circuit is carried out from the source of the constant voltage 9 - 12 V, the current is at least 500 mA. The input voltage must be at least 1-2 per longer voltage drops on the LED.

The R2 resistor should dispel the power of 1-2 W, depending on the required current and the supply voltage. Transistor VT2 - N-channel, designed for current at least 500 mA: IRF530, IRFZ48, IRFZ44N. VT1 - any low-power bipolar NPN: 2N3904, 2N5088, 2N2222, BC547, etc. R1 - power 0.125 - 0.25 W resistance 100 com.

In view of the small number of elements, the assembly can be made by mounting:

Another simple driver diagram based on a linear controlled voltage stabilizer LM317:

Here the input voltage can be up to 35 V. Resistance to the resistor can be calculated by the formula:

where I is the current in amperes.

In this scheme, a significant power will be scattered on LM317 with a large difference between the supply voltage and the fall on the LED. Therefore, it will have to be placed on a small radiator. The resistor should also be calculated for the power of at least 2 W.

More clearly this scheme is considered in the following video:

Here it is shown how to connect a powerful LED using the batteries with a voltage of about 8 V. When the voltage drops on the LED about 6 per difference, it turns out a small, and the microcircuit is heated slightly, so you can do without a radiator.

Please note that with a large difference between the supply voltage and the drop on the LED, it is necessary to put a microcircuit on the heat sink.

Powerful driver with PWM input

The following is a diagram for powering powerful LEDs:

The driver is built on a dual comparator LM393. The scheme itself is a buck-converter, that is, a pulse reduced voltage converter.

Features Driver

  • Supply voltage: 5 - 24 V, permanent;
  • Output current: up to 1 A, adjustable;
  • Output power: up to 18 W;
  • Protection against KZ on exit;
  • The ability to control the brightness with the external PWM signal (it will be interesting to read how to adjust the brightness of the LED ribbon through the dimmer).

Operating principle

The R1 resistor with a diode d1 form a reference voltage source of about 0.7 V, which is additionally regulated by the VR1 resistor. R10 and R11 resistors serve as current sensors for a comparator. Once the voltage on them exceeds the reference, the comparator closes, thus closing a pair of transistors Q1 and Q2, and those, in turn, will close the transistor Q3. However, the inductor L1 at that moment seeks to resume the current passage, so the current will flow until the voltage on R10 and R11 becomes less reference, and the comparator will not open the transistor Q3 again.

The pair Q1 and Q2 acts as a buffer between the exit of the comparator and the valve Q3. It protects the scheme from false positives due to the laying on the valve Q3, and stabilizes its work.

The second part of the comparator (IC1 2/2) is used to further adjust the brightness using PWM. To do this, the control signal is fed to the PWM input: when the logical levels of TTL (+5 and 0 c) are submitted, the diagram will open and close the Q3. The maximum signal frequency at the PWM input is about 2 kHz. Also, this input can be used to enable and disconnect the device using the remote control.

D3 is a Schottky diode, designed for current to 1 A. If it is not possible to find exactly the Schottky diode, you can use a pulse diode, for example FR107, but the output power will then slightly decrease.

The maximum current at the outlet is configured by the selection R2 and the inclusion or exception R11. So you can get the following values:

  • 350 mA (LED with a power of 1 W): R2 \u003d 10K, R11 disabled,
  • 700 mA (3 W): R2 \u003d 10K, R11 connected, 1 Ohm denomination,
  • 1A (5W): R2 \u003d 2.7K, R11 connected, 1 Ohm denomination.

In the narrower limits, the adjustment is made by a variable resistor and PWM signal.

Build and configure driver

Installation of the driver components is made on the dumping board. First, the LM393 chip is installed, then the smallest components: condensers, resistors, diodes. Then transistors are put, and the last place variable resistor.

Place elements on the board is better so as to minimize the distance between the connected outputs and use as few wires as jumpers as possible.

When connected, it is important to observe the polarity of the connection of diodes and the pinout of the transistors, which can be found in the technical description of these components. Also, diodes can be checked using a multimeter in resistance measurement mode: in the forward direction, the device will show the value of about 500-600 ohms.

To power the circuit, you can use the external source of constant voltage 5-24 V or batteries. At the battery 6F22 ("Crown") and others too small capacity, so their use is impractical when using powerful LED.

After assembly, you need to adjust the output current. To do this, the LEDs are soldered to the output, and the VR1 engine is set to the extremely lower position (is checked by a multimeter in the "transverse" mode). Next, we supply the supply voltage to the input, and the rotation of the VR1 handle is achieved by the required brightness of the glow.

List of elements:

Conclusion

The first two of the considered schemes are very simple in the manufacture, but they do not provide protection against short circuit and have a rather low efficiency. For long-term use, a third scheme is recommended on LM393, since it is deprived of these shortcomings and has wider capabilities to adjust the output power.

ledno.ru.

220V LED Driver Scheme

The advantages of LED paws were considered repeatedly. The abundance of positive feedback of users of LED lighting will causes them to think about the own bulbs of Ilyich. Everything would be nice, but when it comes to the calculation of the re-equipment of the apartment on the LED lighting, the numbers are slightly "strained."

To replace an ordinary lamp on 75W, there is a LED light bulb for 15W, and such lamps need to be changed a dozen. With an average cost of about 10 dollars per lamp, the budget is decent, and it is also impossible to exclude the risk of acquiring the Chinese "clone" with a life cycle of 2-3 years. In the light of this, many consider the possibility of independent manufacture of these devices.

220V LED Power Theory

The most budget option can be collected with your own hands from these LEDs. A dozen such baby costs less than a dollar, and in brightness corresponds to the incandescent lamp by 75W. It is not a problem to collect all together, that's just you can not connect them directly - burned. The heart of any LED lamp is the power driver. It depends on how long the light bulb will shine.

To collect the LED lamp with their own 220 volts, we will understand in the power driver diagram.

Network parameters greatly exceed the needs of the LED. Whatever the LED can work from the network, it is necessary to reduce the amplitude of the voltage, current strength and convert the variable voltage of the network to constant.

For these purposes, a voltage divider with resistor or capacitive load and stabilizers are used.

Components of a diode lamp

The 220 volt LED lamp circuit will require a minimum amount of available components.

  • LEDs 3.3V 1W - 12 pcs.;
  • ceramic condenser 0.27MKF 400-500V - 1 pc.;
  • 500Kom resistor - 1m 0.5 - 1W - 1 sh.
  • 100V diode - 4 pcs.;
  • electrolytic capacitors for 330MKF and 100MKF 16V 1 pcs.;
  • voltage stabilizer to 12V L7812 or similar - 1pc.

Manufacture of LED drivers for 220V do-it-yourself

The layout of the ice driver for 220 volts is nothing but a pulse power supply.

As a homemade LED driver from a 220V network, we consider the simplest pulse power supply without galvanic junction. The main advantage of such schemes is simplicity and reliability. But be careful when assembling, since this scheme has no limit on the current current. The LEDs will select their last amps of the ampere, but if you are touched by the curtain wires with your hand, the current will reach a dozen amp, and such a current is very tangible.

The circuit of the simplest driver for 220V LEDs consists of three main cascades:

  • Voltage divider on the capacitance resistance;
  • diode bridge;
  • tension stabilization cascade.

The first cascade is the capacitive resistance on the C1 condenser with the resistor. The resistor is necessary for self-discharge of the capacitor and does not affect the operation of the diagram itself. Its nominal is not particularly critical and can be from 100 to 1m with a capacity of 0.5-1 W. The capacitor is necessarily not electrolytic at 400-500V (efficient amplitude voltage of the network).

With the passage of the half-wave voltage through the capacitor, it skips the current until the hoist charge occurs. The smaller its capacity, the faster the full charge occurs. With a capacity of 0.3-0.4 mpq. Charging time is 1/10 of the network voltage half-wave period. In simple language, only a tenth of the incoming voltage will pass through the condenser.

The second cascade is a diode bridge. It converts alternating voltage to constant. After cutting off most of the half-wave voltage by the capacitor, at the outlet of the diode bridge we get about 20-24V DC.

The third cascade is a smoothing stabilizing filter.

The capacitor with a diode bridge perform a voltage divider function. When the voltage changes in the network, the amplitude will also change at the outlet of the diode bridge.

To smooth the voltage pulsation parallel to the circuit, connect the electrolytic capacitor. Its container depends on the power of our load.

In the driver diagrater, the supply voltage for LEDs should not exceed 12V. As a stabilizer, you can use the distributed element L7812.

The collected scheme of the LED lamp by 220 volts starts to work immediately, but before turning onto the network, it is thoroughly insulating all the bare wires and places of the soldering of the schema elements.

Driver Option without current stabilizer

There is a huge number of drivers for LED drivers from a 220V network, which do not have current stabilizers.

The problem of any non-versionable driver is the pulsation of the output voltage, therefore, the brightness of the LEDs. The capacitor installed after the diode bridge partially copes with this problem, but it decides not completely.

On diodes there will be a pulsation with an amplitude of 2-3B. When we set the stabilizer to 12V into the scheme, even taking into account the pulsation of the amplitude of the incoming voltage will be higher than the clipping range.

Voltage diagram in scheme without stabilizer

Diagram in a scheme with a stabilizer

Therefore, the driver for diode lamps, even assembled with her own hands, in the level of ripples will not give up similar nodes of expensive lamps of factory production.

As you can see, collect the driver with your own hands does not represent much difficulty. By changing the parameters of the schema elements, we can vary the output values \u200b\u200bwidely.

If you have a desire based on such a scheme to assemble a 220 volt LED scheme, it is better to remake the output cascade of 24V voltage with the corresponding stabilizer, since the output current in L7812 1,2A, it limits the load capacity of 10W. For more powerful sources of lighting, it is required to either increase the number of output cascades, or use a more powerful stabilizer with output current to 5a and install it on the radiator.

svetodiodInfo.ru.

How to select LED Driver, LED Driver


The most optimal way to connect to 220V, 12B is the use of current stabilizer, LED driver. In the language of the alleged opponent, "LED Driver" is written. By adding the desired power to this request, you can easily find suitable items on Aliexpress or eBay.

  • 1. Features Chinese
  • 2. Service life
  • 3. Ice Driver for 220V
  • 4. RGB driver for 220V
  • 5. Module for assembly
  • 6. Driver for LED Luminaires
  • 7. Power supply for LED tape
  • 8. LED Driver do it yourself
  • 9. Low-voltage
  • 10. Brightness adjustment

Features Chinese

Many love to buy on the largest Chinese market for Aliexpress. Prices and range are pleased. LED Driver is most often choosing due to low cost and good characteristics.

But with an increase in the dollar, buying the Chinese has become unprofitable, the cost comes from the Russian, while there is no guarantee and the possibility of exchanging. For cheap electronics, the characteristics are always overestimated. For example, if the power of 50 watts is indicated, at best, this is the maximum short-term power, and not constant. Nominal will be 35W - 40W.

In addition, they are much saved on the stuffing to reduce the price. Some where there is not enough items that provide stable operation. The cheapest components are applied, with a short service life and low quality, so the percentage of marriage is relatively high. As a rule, components work at the limit of their parameters, without any stock.

If the manufacturer is not specified, he does not need to be responsible for the quality and feedback about his goods will not write. And the same item produces several factories in different configurations. For good items, a brand must be specified, which means it is not afraid to respond for the quality of its products.

One of the best is the MEANWELL brand, which values \u200b\u200bthe quality of its products and does not release junk.

Life time

Like any electronic device, the LED driver has a service life that depends on the operating conditions. Branded modern LEDs are already working up to 50-100 thousand hours, so food fails before.

Classification:

  1. consumer goods up to 20.000h.;
  2. secondary quality up to 50.000h.;
  3. up to 70.000h. Power supply on high-quality Japanese components.

This indicator is important when calculating payback to the long-term perspective. For domestic use, there is enough swirpotreb. Although the miser pays twice, and in LED searchlights and lamps it works great.

Ice driver for 220V

Modern LED drivers are structurally performed on the PWM controller, which can be very good to stabilize the current.

Main settings:

  1. rated power;
  2. working current;
  3. the number of connected LEDs;
  4. power factor;
  5. KPD stabilizer.

The housings for street use are performed from metal or shockproof plastic. In the manufacture of aluminum housing, it can act as a cooling system for electronic filling. This is especially true when filling the housing compound.

On labeling often indicate how many LEDs can be connected and what power. This value may not only be fixed, but also in the form of a range. For example, it is possible to connect the LEDs 12,220 from 4 to 7 pieces of 1W. It depends on the design of the electrical circuit of the LED driver.

RGB driver for 220V

The tricolor RGB LEDs differ from one-color in order to contain in one body crystals of different colors red, blue, green. To manage them, each color must be lit separately. Diode tapes are used by the RGB controller and power supply.

If the RGB of the LED is the power of 50w, then this is total for all 3 colors. To learn an approximate load on each channel, divide 50w to 3, we get about 17W.

In addition to powerful LED Driver there are 1W, 3W, 5W, 10W.

Remote control panels (DB) are 2 types. With infrared management, like a TV. With the control of radio channel, do not need to be directed to the signal receiver.

Module for assembly

If you are interested in ice driver for assembling with your own hands of the LED searchlight or lamp, you can use the LED Driver without a case.

If you already have a current stabilizer for LEDs, which is not suitable for current, it can be increased or decreased. Find the PWM controller chipboard from which the characteristics of the LED driver depend. It indicates the labeling that you need to find specifications for it. The documentation will indicate a typical inclusion scheme. Typically, the output current is set by one or more resistors connected to the legs of the chip. If you change the rating of resistors or put a variable resistance according to information from the specifications, you can change the current. Only it is impossible to exceed the initial power, otherwise it may fail.

Driver for LED Luminaires

Some other requirements are presented to power outdoor lighting. When designing outdoor lighting, the LED Driver will operate under -40 ° to + 40 ° in dry and wet air.

The pulsation coefficient for lamps may be higher than when using indoors. For street lighting, this indicator becomes not important.

When operating on the street, complete tightness of the power supply is required. There are several ways to protect moisture:

  1. pouring the whole fee with a sealant or compound;
  2. assembly block using silicone seals;
  3. placement of the LED driver board in one volume with LEDs.

The maximum level of protection is IP68, is indicated as "Waterproof Led Driver" or "Waterproof Electronic Led Driver". The Chinese have not a guarantee of waterproof.

In my practice, the claimed level of protection against moisture and dust does not always correspond to the real one. In some places may not be enough seals. Pay attention to the input and output of the cable from the body, samples are falling with a hole that is not closed with a sealant or in another way. Water on the cable can fly to the housing and then evaporate in it. This will result in corrosion on the board and open parts of the wires. This will repeatedly reduce the service life of the searchlight or lamp.

Power supply for LED ribbon

LED tape works on another principle, it takes a stabilized voltage for it. The current resistor is installed on the ribbon itself. This facilitates the connection process, you can connect the segment of any length starting from 3 cm to 100m.

Therefore, the diet for the LED tape can be made from any power supply unit by 12V from consumer electronics.

Main settings:

  1. the number of volts at the output;
  2. rated power;
  3. degree of protection against moisture and dust
  4. power factor.

LED Driver do it yourself

The simplest driver can be made in 30 minutes, even if you do not know the foundations of electronics. As a voltage source, you can use the power supply unit from the consumer electronics with a voltage from 12V to 37V. The power supply is especially suitable for a laptop, which has 18 - 19V and power from 50W to 90W.

It will be necessary to minimize the details, they are all depicted in the picture. The radiator for cooling a powerful LED can be borrowed from the computer. Surely somewhere at home in the storage room you are dusting old spare parts from the system unit. It is best to suit the processor.

CCTO would learn the quantity of the required resistance, use the calculator calculator calculator for LM317.

Before making LED Driver 50W with your own hands, it is worth a little search, for example, there is in every diode lamp. If you have a faulty light bulb, which has a malfunction in diodes, then you can use Driver from it.

Low-voltage

In detail we analyze the types of low-voltage ice drivers running from voltage up to 40 volts. Our Chinese brothers in mind offer many options. On the basis of PWM controllers, voltage stabilizers and current stabilizers are produced. The main difference, the module with the ability to stabilize current on the board is 2-3 blue regulators, in the form of variable resistors.

As the technical characteristics of the entire module, the parameters of the PWM chip on which it is assembled is indicated. For example, an outdated but popular LM2596 according to specifications is holding up to 3 amps. But without a radiator, it will endure only 1 amp.

A more modern option with improved efficiency is a PWM XL4015 controller designed for 5a. With a miniature cooling system, it can work up to 2,5A.

If you have very powerful supermarket LEDs, then you need a LED driver for LED lamps. Two radiator cooled the diode and the XL4015 chip. In such configuration, it is capable of working up to 5a with voltage up to 35V. It is desirable that he does not work in the limit modes, it is significantly improved its reliability and service life.

If you have a small lamp or a pocket spotlight, then you will fit the miniature voltage stabilizer, with a current to 1,5a. Input voltage from 5 to 23V, output to 17B.

Brightness adjustment

To regulate the brightness of the LED, you can use compact LED dimmers that have recently appeared. If its power is not enough, you can put a dimmer more. They usually work in two ranges on 12V and 24V.

You can manage using infrared or radioperate remote control (DB). They cost from 100 rubles for a simple model and from 200 rub model with remote control. Basically, such consoles are used for 12V diode tapes. But it can easily be put to a low-voltage driver.

Dimmation can be analog in the form of a spinning handle and digital in the form of buttons.

led-obzor.ru.

LED Driver

We will look at a truly simple and inexpensive powerful LED driver. The scheme is a source of direct current, which means that it saves the brightness of the LED constant, no matter what power you use. Ate when limiting the current of small supermarket LEDs, a sufficient resistor is sufficient, then a special scheme is needed for power over 1st watt. In general, it is better to feed the LED better than using a resistor. The proposed LED driver is ideal especially for powerful LEDs, and can be used for any number and configuration, with any type of power. As a test project, we took the LED element per 1 watt. You can easily change the driver elements to use with more powerful LEDs, on various types of power supply - BP, batteries, etc.

Technical characteristics of LED drivers:

Input voltage: 2B to 18V - output voltage: 0.5 less than the input voltage (0.5V drop on the field transistor) - Current: 20 amp

Details in the Scheme:

R2: approximately 100 ohm resistor

R3: The resistor is selected

Q2: Little NPN transistor (2N5088BU)

Q1: Large N-channel transistor (FQP50N06L)

LED: Luxeon 1-Watt LXHL-MWEC


Other driver elements:

A transformer adapter is used as a power source, you can use batteries. To power one LED 4 - 6 volts enough. That is why this scheme is convenient that you can use a wide range of power sources, and it will always shine equally. The radiator is not required, as about 200 mA current goes. If there is more current, you must set the LED element and the q1 transistor to the radiator.

The choice of resistance R3.

The LED current is installed with R3, it is approximately equal: 0.5 / R3

The power dissipated on the resistor is approximately: 0.25 / R3

In this case, a current of 225 mA was installed using R3 by 2.2 ohms. R3 has a power of 0.1 W, thus, a standard 0.25 watt resistor fits perfectly. The Q1 transistor will work up to 18 V. If you want more, you need to change the model. Without radiators, FQP50N06L can only disperse about 0.5 W - this is sufficient for 200 mA current at a 3-voltage difference between the power supply and the LED.


Functions of transistors in the diagram:

Q1 is used as a variable resistor. - Q2 is used as a current sensor, and R3 is an installation resistor that leads to closing Q2 when the increased current flows. The transistor creates a feedback that continuously monitors the current current parameters and keeps it exactly in a given value.

This scheme is so simple that it makes no sense to collect it on the printed circuit board. Just connect the findings of parts by mounted mounting.

Forum for nutrition of various LEDs

elwo.ru.

Drivers for LED light bulbs.

A small laboratory on the topic "What driver is better?" Electronic or on capacitors in the role of ballast? I think that everyone has their own niche. I will try to consider all the pros and cons both of those and other schemes. Let me remind you the formula for calculating ballast drivers. Maybe anyone interested? We build your review on a simple principle. First, I will consider drivers on capacitors in the role of ballast. Then look at their electronic fellow. Well, at the end of the comparative conclusion. And now let's get to the point. Take a standard Chinese light bulb. Here is its scheme (a little improved). Why enhanced? This scheme will suit any cheap Chinese light bulb. The difference will be only in the ratings of radio components and the absence of some resistances (in order to save).
There are light bulbs with missing C2 (very rarely, but it happens). In such light bulbs, the pulsation coefficient is 100%. Very rarely put R4. Although R4 resistance is simply necessary. It will be instead of a fuse, as well as soften the starting current. If there is no scheme, it is better to put. The current through the LEDs determines the rating of the C1 containers. Depending on what current we want to skip through LEDs (for self-delicacies), it is possible to calculate its capacity by formula (1).
I wrote this formula many times. I repeat. Formula (2) allows you to make the opposite. With it, you can calculate the current through the LEDs, and then the power of the bulb, without having a wattmeter. To calculate the power, we still need to know the voltage drop on the LEDs. You can measure the voltmeter, you can simply calculate (without a voltmeter). It is simply calculated. The LED behaves in the scheme as a stabilion with a stabilization voltage about 3B (there are exceptions, but very rare). With a sequential connection of the LEDs, the voltage drop on them is equal to the number of LEDs multiplied by 3B (if 5 LEDs, then 15V, if 10 - 30V, etc.). Everything is simple. It happens that the schemes are collected from LEDs into several parallels. Then it will be necessary to take into account the number of LEDs only in one parallel. Suppose we want to make a light bulb at ten LEDs 5730smd. According to passport information, the maximum current of 150mA. Let's calculate the light bulb for 100mA. There will be a reserve for power. By formula (1) we obtain: C \u003d 3.18 * 100 / (220-30) \u003d 1.67 MCF. Such capacity industry does not release, even Chinese. We take the nearest comfortable (we have 1,5mkf) and pass the current according to formula (2). (220-30) * 1.5 / 3,18 \u003d 90mA. 90mA * 30V \u003d 2.7W. This is the calculated power of the light bulb. Everything is simple. In life, of course, will be different, but not much. It all depends on the real voltage on the network (this is the first minus of the driver), from the exact container of the ballast, the actual voltage drop on the LEDs, etc. With the help of formula (2), you can calculate the power of the light bulbs already purchased (already mentioned). A drop of voltage on R2 and R4 can be neglected, it is slightly. You can connect a consistently many LEDs, but the total voltage drop should not exceed half the network voltage (110V). If this voltage is exceeded, the bulb is painfully reacting to all voltage changes. The more exceeds, the more painful reacts (this is a friendly advice). Moreover, these limits of the formula operates inaccurately. For sure no longer calculate. That appeared very big plus from these drivers. The power of the bulb can be customized under the desired result by the selection of the C1 container (both self-made and already purchased). But the second minus immediately appeared. The scheme does not have a galvanic junction with the network. If you poke into any place on the light bulb, the indicator will show the presence of the phase. Touch your hands (light bulb included in the network) is strictly prohibited. Such a driver has almost 100% efficiency. Losses only on diodes and two resistances. It can be made for half an hour (fast). Even the fee is not necessary. Condenters ordered these: aliexpress.com/snapshot/310648391.html aliexpress.com/snapshot/310648393.html diodes These are these: aliexpress.com/snapshot/6008595825.html

But these schemes have another serious drawback. These are pulsations. Pulsation with a frequency of 100 Hz, the result of rectifying the mains voltage.
Different light bulbs will differ slightly. It all depends on the value of the filter capacitance C2. The greater the capacity, the less rush, the less ripple. It is necessary to watch GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written black on white that ripples with a frequency of up to 300 Hz are harmful to health. There is a formula for calculation (application d). But that's not all. It is necessary to watch sanitary standards SNiP 23-05-95 "Natural and artificial lighting". Depending on the purpose of the room, the maximum permissible pulsations from 10 to 20%. In life, nothing just happens. The result of the simplicity and cheapness of the bulbs is obvious. It's time to move to electronic drivers. Here, too, not everything is so cloudless. Here I ordered such a driver. This link is on him at the beginning of the review.
Why ordered just such? Will explain. I wanted to "collect me" the lamps on 1-3 tons of LEDs. Pick up for the price and characteristics. I would suit me a driver for 3-4 LEDs with a current to 700mA. The driver must have a key transistor in its composition, which will automatize the driver control microcircuit. To reduce RF pulsations on the output should be a capacitor. The first minus. The cost of such drivers (US $ 13.75 / 10 pieces) differs in the most side of the ballast. But immediately plus. Current stabilization of such drivers 300mA, 600mA and higher. Ballast drivers this did not dream (no longer recommended). Let's look at the characteristics from the seller: AC85-265V "That Everyday Household Appliances." Load After 10-15V; CAN DRIVE 3-4 3W LED LAMP BEADS SERIES 600MA Here is the range of output voltages are small (also minus). Maximum, you can pick up successively five LEDs. In parallel, you can patch as much as you like. LED power is considered by the formula: The driver current is multiplied by the voltage drop on the LEDs [the number of LEDs (from three to five) and multiply the voltage drop on the LED (about 3B)]. Another big drawback of these drivers is large RF interference. Some instances hear not only FM radio, but also disappears with the reception of digital TV channels when they work. The frequency of the transformation is several tens of kHz. But protection is usually no (from interference).
Under the transformer something like "Screen". Must reduce interference. It is this driver almost no phonite. Why they are the foundation, it becomes clear if you look at the waveform oscillogram on the LEDs. Without capacitors Christmas tree much more serious!
At the output of the driver should be not only electrolyte, but also ceramics to suppress RF interference. Expressed my opinion. It is usually worth either something or other. It happens that nothing is worth it. It happens in cheap light bulbs. The driver is hidden inside, it will be difficult to present a complaint. Let's see the scheme. But I warn it, she is introductory. Only the main elements that are necessary for us for creativity (for understanding "what is what") is.

Error in calculations is present. By the way, in the fine facilities, the devil also wipes. And now I consider pulsation (theory at the beginning of the review). Let's see what sees our eyes. I connect the photodiode to the oscilloscope. Two pictures combined into one for the convenience of perception. On the left, the light is turned off. On the right - the light is turned on. We look at GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written black on white that ripples with a frequency of up to 300 Hz are harmful to health. And we have about 100 Hz. For eye harmful.
I got 20%. It is necessary to watch sanitary standards SNiP 23-05-95 "Natural and artificial lighting". You can use, but not in the bedroom. And I have a corridor. You can SNiP and not to watch. And now let's see another option for connecting LEDs. This is a diagram of connecting to an electronic drive.
Total 3 parallels of 4 LEDs. That's what the wattmeter shows. 7,1W active power.
Let's see how much comes to LEDs. Connected an ammeter and voltmeter to the driver output.
Calculate purely LED power. P \u003d 0,49a * 12,1V \u003d 5.93W. All that is missing, took the driver. Now let's see what sees our eyes. On the left, the light is turned off. On the right - the light is turned on. The frequency of repetition of the pulses is about 100kHz. We look at GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written black on white, that only ripples with a frequency of up to 300Hz are harmful to health. And we have about 100 kHz. For the eye harmlessly.

He considered everything, everything measured. Now allotes the pros and cons of these schemes: the disadvantages of the light bulbs with the capacitor as ballast compared to electronic drivers. - The time of work is categorically impossible to concern the elements of the scheme, they are under the phase. - It is possible to achieve high currents of the luminescence of LEDs, because At the same time, large-sized capacitors are necessary. And the increase in the capacity leads to large starting currents, sprigs. -The large pulsations of the light flux rate of 100 Hz, require large filtering containers at the output. Pluses of light bulbs with a capacitor as ballast compared to electronic drivers. + The scheme is very simple, does not require special skills in the manufacture. + The range of output voltages is simply fantastic. The same driver will work with one and forty consistently connected LEDs. Electronic drivers output voltages have a much narrower range. + Low cost of such drivers, which is literally from the cost of two capacitors and a diode bridge. + You can make it yourself. Most details can be found in any shed or garage (old TVs, etc.). + You can adjust the current through the LEDs by the selection of ballast containers. + Indispensable as an initial LED experience as the first step in the development of LED lighting. There is one more quality that can be attributed to both the pros and cons. When using similar circuits with backlit switches, the light bulb lights are highlighted. For me personally, it is rather plus than minus. I use everywhere as duty (night) lighting. Do not deliberately write what drivers are better, everyone has their own niche. I posted a maximum of everything I know. Showed all the pros and cons of these schemes. And the choice how to always do you. I only tried to help. That's all! Good luck everyone.

mysku.ru.

How to choose the LED driver - views and main characteristics

LEDs were gained great popularity. The main role in this was played by the LED driver supporting the constant output current of a certain value. It can be said that this device is a current source for LED devices. Such a current driver, working with the LED, provides a long service life and reliable brightness. Analysis of the characteristics and types of these devices allows you to understand which functions they perform, and how to choose them correctly.

What is the driver and what is his appointment?

The driver for LEDs is an electronic device, at the output of which a constant current is formed after stabilization. In this case, no voltage is formed, namely the current. Devices that stabilize the voltage are called power supplies. The output voltage is specified on their enclosure. Power supplies 12 V are used to power LED lines, LED tapes and modules.

The main parameter of the LED driver, which he can provide a consumer for a long time at a certain load, is an output current. Separate LEDs or assemblies from similar elements are used as a load.


The LED driver is usually powered by a voltage 220 V. In most cases, the range of working output voltage is from three volts and can reach several dozen volts. To connect 3W LEDs in the amount of six pieces, you will need a driver with an output voltage from 9 to 21 V, designed for 780 mA. With its versatility, it has a small efficiency if it enable the minimum load on it.

When lighting in cars, in the headlights of bicycles, motorcycles, mopeds, etc., in the equipment of portable lanterns, a constant voltage is used, the value of which varies from 9 to 36 V. You can not apply the driver for LEDs with a small power, but in such Cases will need to make an appropriate resistor into a supply network of 220 V. Despite the fact that this element is used in the household switches, connect the LED to the network 220 V and rely on reliability is quite problematic.

Key Features

The power that these devices are capable of paying under load is an important indicator. Do not overload it, trying to achieve maximum results. As a result of such actions, drivers for LEDs or the LED elements themselves can fail.


The electronic filling of the device affects many reasons:

  • protection class of the device;
  • an element component that is used for assembly;
  • input and output parameters;
  • brand manufacturer.

The manufacture of modern drivers is performed using chips using a pulse transformation technology, which includes pulse converters and schemes, stabilizing current. PWM transducers are powered from 220 V, possess a high class of protection against short circuits, overloads, as well as high efficiency.

Specifications

Before purchasing a transducer for LEDs, the device characteristics should be studied. These include the following parameters:

  • issued power;
  • output voltage;
  • rated current.

Connection diagram LED driver

The output voltage affects the connection scheme to the power source, the number of LEDs in it. The value of the current proportionally depends on the power of the diodes and the brightness of their radiation. The LED driver must issue so much current for LEDs as needed to provide constant brightness. It is worth remembering that the power of the desired device should be more consumed by all LEDs. It can be calculated using the following formula:

P (LED) - the power of one LED element;

n is the number of LED elements.

To ensure long and stable operation of the driver, the power supply reserve is 20-30% from the nominal.


By performing the calculation, the color factor of the consumer should be taken into account, as it affects the voltage drop. In different colors it will have different values.

Shelf life

LED drivers, like all the electronics, have a certain service life, which is strongly affected by operating conditions. LED elements made by famous brands are designed to work up to 100 thousand hours, which is much longer than power sources. By quality, the calculated driver can be classified into three types:

  • low quality, with efficiency up to 20 thousand hours;
  • with averaged parameters - up to 50 thousand hours;
  • the converter consisting of components of well-known brands is up to 70 thousand hours.

Many do not even know why pay attention to this parameter. It will be needed to select a device for long-term use and further payback. For use in household premises, the first category (up to 20 thousand hours) is suitable.

How to pick a driver?

There are many varieties of drivers used for LED lighting. Most of the products presented are manufactured in China and does not have the desired quality, but it is released at the same time a low pricing range. If you need a good driver, it is better not to chase more than the cheap Chinese production, since their characteristics do not always coincide with the declared, and rarely when the warranty is attached to them. There may be marriage on the chip or fast failure of the device, in which case will not be able to exchange for a better product or return the means.


The most frequently chosen option is an inapplicable driver that feeds from 220 V or 12 V. Various modifications allow you to use them for one or more LEDs. These devices can be chosen to organize research in the laboratory or experimental experiments. For phyto lamps and domestic use, drivers for LEDs located in the case are chosen. Blowing devices won in the price plan, but losing in aesthetics, safety and reliability.

Types of drivers

Devices that carry out the LEDs can be divided into:

  • impulse;
  • linear.

The pulse type devices are produced at the output of a plurality of high frequency pulses and operate according to the PWM principle, the efficiency of them is up to 95%. Pulse converters have one significant drawback - while working strong electromagnetic interference occurs. To ensure a stable output current into a linear driver, a current generator is installed, which plays the role of exit. Such devices have a small efficiency (up to 80%), but at the same time are simple in technical terms and are inexpensive. Such devices cannot be used for high power consumers.

From the above, it can be concluded that the power supply for LEDs should be chosen very carefully. An example may be a fluorescent lamp on which a current is supplied exceeding the norm by 20%. In its characteristics, there will be practically no changes, but the efficiency of the LED will decrease several times.

lampagid.ru.

Connection diagrams of LEDs to 220V and 12V


Consider how to turn on the ice of the average power diodes to the most popular 5V, 12 volts, 220V. They can then be used in the manufacture of color-communication devices, signal level indicators, smooth turning on and off. I have long been going to make a smooth artificial dawn to observe the routine of the day. In addition, the emulation of dawn allows you to wake up much better and easier.

Read about the connection of LEDs to 12 and 220V, read in the previous article, we consider all the ways from complex to simple, from expensive to cheap.

  • 1. Types of scheme
  • 2. Designation in the scheme
  • 3. Connecting the LED to the network 220V, scheme
  • 4. Connect to constant voltage
  • 5. The easiest low voltage driver
  • 6. Drivers with food from 5V to 30V
  • 7. Inclusion of 1 diode
  • 8. Parallel connection
  • 9. Sequential connection
  • 10. Connecting RGB LED
  • 11. Enable COB diodes
  • 12. Connecting SMD5050 on 3 crystals
  • 13. LED tape 12V SMD5630
  • 14. RGB 12V SMD5050 LED Ribbon

Types of schemes

The LED Connection Scheme is two types that depend on the power supply:

  1. lED driver with stabilized current;
  2. power supply with stabilized voltage.

In the first embodiment, a specialized source is used, which has a certain stabilized current, for example 300mA. The number of connected LED diodes is limited only by its power. Resistor (resistance) is not required.

In the second embodiment, only voltage is stable. The diode has a very small internal resistance if it is included without limiting the ampere, he burns. To turn on, it is necessary to use a current-limiting resistor. The resistor for the LED can be made on a special calculator.

Calculator takes into account 4 parameters:

  • reduction of voltage on one LED;
  • nominal working current;
  • number of LED in the chain;
  • the amount of volts at the output of the power supply.

If you use inexpensive LED elements of Chinese production, most likely they will have a big variation of parameters. Therefore, the real value of the amp of the chain will be different and the adjustment of the established resistance will be required. To check how large the variation of the parameters is, you must enable everything in series. We connect the power of the LEDs and then lower the voltage as long as they will barely glow. If the characteristics differ strongly, the part of the LED will work brightly, part of the dim.

This leads to the fact that in some elements of the electrical circuit, the power will be higher, due to this they will be more loaded. There will also be increased heating, reinforced degradation, lower reliability.

Designation in scheme

For the designation, the diagram uses the two above pictograms. Two parallel arrows indicate that shines very much, the number of bunnies in the eyes do not count.

Connecting the LED to the 220V network, scheme

To connect to the network 220 volts, a driver is used, which is a source of stable current.

The drivers for LEDs can be two types:

  1. simple on the quenching condenser;
  2. full-fledged using stabilizer chips;

Collect the driver on the condenser is very simple, it takes a minimum of details and time. The voltage is 220V decreases due to the high-voltage capacitor, which is then straightened and stabilized slightly. It is used in cheap LED lamps. The main disadvantage is a high level of light pulsations, which does not affect health. But it is individually, some do not notice this at all. It is also difficult to calculate the scheme due to the scattering of the characteristics of electronic components.

The full-fledged scheme using specialized chip provides better stability at the driver output. If the driver copes well with the load, then the ripple coefficient will not be higher than 10%, but ideally 0%. In order not to do the driver with your own hands, you can take from a faulty light bulb or lamp if the problem they did not have food.

If you have a less suitable stabilizer, but the current is less or more, then it can be corrected with a minimum of effort. Find the specifications on the micrower from the driver. Most often, the amount of amp at the outlet is set by a resistor or several resistors located near the microcircuit. By adding an even resistance to them or removing one of them, you can get the necessary current strength. The only one cannot exceed the specified power.

Connect to constant voltage

  1. 3.7V - batteries from phones;
  2. 5B - Chargers with USB;
  3. 12V - car, cigarette lighter, consumer electronics, computer;
  4. 19B - blocks from laptops, netbooks, monoblocks.

The easiest low-voltage driver

The simplest scheme of the current stabilizer for LEDs consists of a LM317 linear chip or its analogues. At the output of such stabilizers can be from 0.1a to 5a. The main drawbacks are low efficiency and strong heating. But this is compensated by the maximum ease of manufacture.

Entrance to 37V, up to 1.5 amps for the housing of the specified in the picture.

To calculate the resistance of the operating current, use the Calculator current stabilizer on LM317 for LEDs.

Drivers with food from 5V to 30V

If you have a suitable power source from any home appliance, it is better to use a low-voltage driver to turn on. They are boosting and lowering. Improving even from 1.5V will make 5V to work the LED chain. A lowering out of 10V-30B will make a lower, for example 15B.

In a large assortment, they are sold from the Chinese, the low-voltage driver is distinguished by two regulators from the simple volt stabilizer.

The real power of such a stabilizer will be lower than the Chinese pointed. The parameters of the module write the characteristic of the chip and not the entire design. If there is a big radiator, then such a module pulls 70% - 80% of the promised. If there is no radiator, then 25% - 35%.

The models on LM2596 are especially popular, which are already decently outdated due to low efficiency. They also warm themselves, so no cooling system hold more than 1 amp.

More efficient XL4015, XL4005, efficiency is much higher. Without cooling radiator, withstand up to 2,5A. There are quite miniature models on MP1584 with a size of 22mm per 17mm.

Turning on 1 diode.

Most often 12 volts are used, 220 volts and 5V. Thus, low-power LED illumination of wall switches on 220V is made. The factory standard switches are most often the neon lamp.

Parallel connection

With a parallel connection, it is desirable to use a separate resistor to use a separate resistor to obtain maximum reliability. Another option is to put one powerful resistance to several LEDs. But at the exit of one LED, the current will increase on other remaining. It will be higher than the nominal or specified, which will significantly reduce the resource and increase the heating.

The rationality of the applications of each method is calculated based on the requirements for the product.

Sequential connection

A sequential power connection from 220V is used in filament diodes and 220 volts LED tapes. In a long chain of 60-70 LED, each falls 3B, which allows you to connect directly to high voltage. Additionally, only current rectifier is used to obtain a plus and minus.

Such a compound is used in any lighting:

  1. lED lamps for home;
  2. lED lamps;
  3. new Year's Garlands on 220V;
  4. lED tapes for 220.

In the home lamps, up to 20 LEDs are used successively, the voltage is obtained about 60V. The maximum amount is used in the Chinese corn bulbs, from 30 to 120 LED pieces. Corn do not have a protective flask, so electrical contacts on which up to 180V are fully open.

Observe caution if you see a long serial chain, besides, they do not always have grounding. My neighbor grabbed corn with bare hands and then told fascinating poems from bad words.

Connecting RGB LED

Low-powerful tricolor RGB LEDs consist of three independent crystals located in one case. If 3 crystals (red, green, blue) turn on simultaneously, then we get a white light.

Control each color occurs independently of others with the RGB controller. In the control unit there are ready-made programs and manual modes.

Enabling COB diodes

Connection schemes are the same as the SMD5050, SMD 5630, SMD 5730, SMD 5630, SMD 5730, SMD5050, SMD 5630, SMD 5730, instead of 1 diodes, included a sequential chain of several crystals.

Powerful LED matrices have a plurality of crystals included in series and in parallel. Therefore, food is required from 9 to 40 volts, depends on power.

Connecting SMD5050 on 3 crystals

From conventional SMD5050 diodes is different in that it consists of 3 white light crystals, therefore it has 6 legs. That is, it is three SMD2835, made on the same crystals.

With parallel inclusion using one resistor, reliability will be lower. If one of their crystals fails, the current strength increases through the remaining 2. This leads to an accelerated burnout of the remaining.

When using a separate resistance for each crystal, the above mention is eliminated. But at the same time, the amount of resistors used 3 times increases and the LED connection scheme becomes more difficult. Therefore, it is not used in LED ribbons and lamps.

LED tape 12V SMD5630

A visual example of connecting the LED to 12 volts is the LED tape. It consists of 3 diode sections and 1 resistor included sequentially. Therefore, it is possible to cut it only in the specified places between these sections.

RGB 12V SMD5050 LED Tape

Three colors are used in RGB ribbon, each is controlled separately, a resistor is installed for each color. You can only cut at the specified location so that in each section it was 3 SMD5050 and it can connect to 12 volts.

led-obzor.ru Connection Schemes Outlets and Switches

  • LED drivers

  • A small laboratory on the topic "What driver is better?" Electronic or on capacitors in the role of ballast? I think that everyone has their own niche. I will try to consider all the pros and cons both of those and other schemes. Let me remind you the formula for calculating ballast drivers. Maybe anyone interested?

    We build your review on a simple principle. First, I will consider drivers on capacitors in the role of ballast. Then look at their electronic fellow. Well, at the end of the comparative conclusion.
    And now let's get to the point.
    Take a standard Chinese light bulb. Here is its scheme (a little improved). Why enhanced? This scheme will suit any cheap Chinese light bulb. The difference will be only in the ratings of radio components and the absence of some resistances (in order to save).


    There are light bulbs with missing C2 (very rarely, but it happens). In such light bulbs, the pulsation coefficient is 100%. Very rarely put R4. Although R4 resistance is simply necessary. It will be instead of a fuse, as well as soften the starting current. If there is no scheme, it is better to put. The current through the LEDs determines the rating of the C1 containers. Depending on what current we want to skip through LEDs (for self-delicacies), it is possible to calculate its capacity by formula (1).


    I wrote this formula many times. I repeat.
    Formula (2) allows you to make the opposite. With it, you can calculate the current through the LEDs, and then the power of the bulb, without having a wattmeter. To calculate the power, we still need to know the voltage drop on the LEDs. You can measure the voltmeter, you can simply calculate (without a voltmeter). It is simply calculated. The LED behaves in the scheme as a stabilion with a stabilization voltage about 3B (there are exceptions, but very rare). With a sequential connection of the LEDs, the voltage drop on them is equal to the number of LEDs multiplied by 3B (if 5 LEDs, then 15V, if 10 - 30V, etc.). Everything is simple. It happens that the schemes are collected from LEDs into several parallels. Then it will be necessary to take into account the number of LEDs only in one parallel.
    Suppose we want to make a light bulb at ten LEDs 5730smd. According to passport information, the maximum current of 150mA. Let's calculate the light bulb for 100mA. There will be a reserve for power. By formula (1) we obtain: C \u003d 3.18 * 100 / (220-30) \u003d 1.67 MCF. Such capacity industry does not release, even Chinese. We take the nearest comfortable (we have 1,5mkf) and pass the current according to formula (2).
    (220-30) * 1.5 / 3,18 \u003d 90mA. 90mA * 30V \u003d 2.7W. This is the calculated power of the light bulb. Everything is simple. In life, of course, will be different, but not much. It all depends on the real voltage on the network (this is the first minus of the driver), from the exact container of the ballast, the actual voltage drop on the LEDs, etc. With the help of formula (2), you can calculate the power of the light bulbs already purchased (already mentioned). A drop of voltage on R2 and R4 can be neglected, it is slightly. You can connect a consistently many LEDs, but the total voltage drop should not exceed half the network voltage (110V). If this voltage is exceeded, the bulb is painfully reacting to all voltage changes. The more exceeds, the more painful reacts (this is a friendly advice). Moreover, these limits of the formula operates inaccurately. For sure no longer calculate.
    That appeared very big plus from these drivers. The power of the bulb can be customized under the desired result by the selection of the C1 container (both self-made and already purchased). But the second minus immediately appeared. The scheme does not have a galvanic junction with the network. If you poke into any place on the light bulb, the indicator will show the presence of the phase. Touch your hands (light bulb included in the network) is strictly prohibited.
    Such a driver has almost 100% efficiency. Losses only on diodes and two resistances.
    It can be made for half an hour (fast). Even the fee is not necessary.
    Condenters ordered these:


    Diodes are these:





    But these schemes have another serious drawback. These are pulsations. Pulsation with a frequency of 100 Hz, the result of rectifying the mains voltage.


    Different light bulbs will differ slightly. It all depends on the value of the filter capacitance C2. The greater the capacity, the less rush, the less ripple. It is necessary to watch GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written black on white that ripples with a frequency of up to 300 Hz are harmful to health. There is a formula for calculation (application d).

    But that's not all. It is necessary to watch sanitary standards SNiP 23-05-95 "Natural and artificial lighting". Depending on the purpose of the room, the maximum permissible pulsations from 10 to 20%.
    In life, nothing just happens. The result of the simplicity and cheapness of the bulbs is obvious.
    It's time to move to electronic drivers. Here, too, not everything is so cloudless.
    Here I ordered such a driver. This link is on him at the beginning of the review.


    Why ordered just such? Will explain. I wanted to "collect me" the lamps on 1-3 tons of LEDs. Pick up for the price and characteristics. I would suit me a driver for 3-4 LEDs with a current to 700mA. The driver must have a key transistor in its composition, which will automatize the driver control microcircuit. To reduce RF pulsations on the output should be a capacitor. The first minus. The cost of such drivers (US $ 13.75 / 10 pieces) differs in the most side of the ballast. But immediately plus. Current stabilization of such drivers 300mA, 600mA and higher. Ballast drivers this did not dream (no longer recommended).
    Let's look at the characteristics from the seller:

    AC85-265V "THAT EVERYDAY HOUSEHOLD APPLIANCES."
    Load After 10-15V; CAN DRIVE 3-4 3W LED LAMP BEADS SERIES
    600mA.
    But the range of output voltages is small (also minus). Maximum, you can pick up successively five LEDs. In parallel, you can patch as much as you like. LED power is considered by the formula: The driver current is multiplied by the voltage drop on the LEDs [the number of LEDs (from three to five) and multiply the voltage drop on the LED (about 3B)].
    Another big drawback of these drivers is large RF interference. Some instances hear not only FM radio, but also disappears with the reception of digital TV channels when they work. The frequency of the transformation is several tens of kHz. But protection is usually no (from interference).


    Under the transformer something like "Screen". Must reduce interference. It is this driver almost no phonite.
    Why they are the foundation, it becomes clear if you look at the waveform oscillogram on the LEDs. Without capacitors Christmas tree much more serious!


    At the output of the driver should be not only electrolyte, but also ceramics to suppress RF interference. Expressed my opinion. It is usually worth either something or other. It happens that nothing is worth it. It happens in cheap light bulbs. The driver is hidden inside, it will be difficult to present a complaint.
    Let's see the scheme. But I warn it, she is introductory. Only the main elements that are necessary for us for creativity (for understanding "what is what") is.


    Error in calculations is present. By the way, in the fine facilities, the devil also wipes.
    And now I consider pulsation (theory at the beginning of the review). Let's see what sees our eyes. I connect the photodiode to the oscilloscope. Two pictures combined into one for the convenience of perception. On the left, the light is turned off. On the right - the light is turned on. We look at GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written black on white that ripples with a frequency of up to 300 Hz are harmful to health. And we have about 100 Hz. For eye harmful.


    I got 20%. It is necessary to watch sanitary standards SNiP 23-05-95 "Natural and artificial lighting". You can use, but not in the bedroom. And I have a corridor. You can SNiP and not to watch.
    And now let's see another option for connecting LEDs. This is a diagram of connecting to an electronic drive.


    Total 3 parallels of 4 LEDs.
    That's what the wattmeter shows. 7,1W active power.


    Let's see how much comes to LEDs. Connected an ammeter and voltmeter to the driver output.


    Calculate purely LED power. P \u003d 0,49a * 12,1V \u003d 5.93W. All that is missing, took the driver.
    Now let's see what sees our eyes. On the left, the light is turned off. On the right - the light is turned on. The frequency of repetition of the pulses is about 100kHz. We look at GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written black on white, that only ripples with a frequency of up to 300Hz are harmful to health. And we have about 100 kHz. For the eye harmlessly.

    He considered everything, everything measured.
    Now allotes the pros and cons of these schemes:
    Cons light bulbs with a capacitor as ballast compared to electronic drivers.
    - The time of work is categorically impossible to concern the elements of the scheme, they are under the phase.
    - It is possible to achieve high currents of the luminescence of LEDs, because At the same time, large-sized capacitors are necessary. And the increase in the capacity leads to large starting currents, sprigs.
    -The large pulsations of the light flux of the frequency of 100 Hz, require large filtering containers at the output.
    Pluses of light bulbs with a condenser as ballast compared to electronic drivers.
    + The scheme is very simple, does not require special skills in the manufacture.
    + The range of output voltages is simply fantastic. The same driver will work with one and forty consistently connected LEDs. Electronic drivers output voltages have a much narrower range.
    + Low cost of such drivers, which is literally from the cost of two capacitors and a diode bridge.
    + You can make it yourself. Most details can be found in any shed or garage (old TVs, etc.).
    + You can adjust the current through the LEDs by the selection of ballast containers.
    + Indispensable as an initial LED experience as the first step in the development of LED lighting.
    There is one more quality that can be attributed to both the pros and cons. When using similar circuits with backlit switches, the light bulb lights are highlighted. For me personally, it is rather plus than minus. I use everywhere as duty (night) lighting.
    Do not deliberately write what drivers are better, everyone has their own niche.
    I posted a maximum of everything I know. Showed all the pros and cons of these schemes. And the choice how to always do you. I only tried to help.
    That's all!
    Good luck everyone.

    I plan to buy +70. Add to favourites I liked the review +68 +157

    Despite the high cost, electricity consumption by semiconductor luminaires (LED) is much less than that of incandescent lamps, and the service life is 5 times more. The LED lamp circuit operates at 220 volts, when the input signal causing the glow is converted to the operating size using the driver.

    LED lamps on 220 V

    Whatever the supply voltage, permanent voltage is fed to one LED 1.8-4 V.

    Types of LEDs

    The LED is a semiconductor crystal of several layers, converting electricity into visible light. When it changes its composition, the radiation of a certain color is obtained. The LED is based on the chip-crystal with a platform for connecting power conductors.

    To reproduce the white light, the "blue" chip is covered with a yellow luminophore. With the radiation of the crystal, the phosphor emits his own. Mixing yellow and blue light forms white.

    Different methods for assembling chips allow you to create 4 main types of LEDs:

    1. DIP - consists of a crystal with a lens located above and attached two conductors. It is most common and used to illuminate, in light ornaments and the scoreboard.
    2. "Piranha" is a similar design, but with four conclusions, which makes it more reliable to mount and improves the removal of the highlighting heat. Mostly applied in the automotive industry.
    3. SMD LED - placed on the surface, due to which it is possible to reduce the dimensions, improve the heat sink and provide a variety of execution options. Used in any light sources.
    4. Sovic technology, where the chip is soldered into the fee. Due to this, the contact is better protected from oxidation and overheating, as well as significantly increases the intensity of the glow. If the LED burns out, it must be fully changed, since the repair with its own hands with the replacement of individual chips is not possible.

    The disadvantage of the LED is its small size. To create a large colorful lighting image, a lot of sources are required combined into groups. In addition, the crystal is aging with time, and the brightness of the lamps gradually falls. High-quality models have the wear process very slowly.

    LED lamp device

    The lamp includes:

    • housing;
    • base;
    • diffuser;
    • radiator;
    • lED LED unit;
    • bestrazing driver.

    220 volts LED lamp

    The figure shows a modern LED lamp according to the Sov technology. The LED is made as one integer, with many crystals. It does not require a sprinkling of numerous contacts. Join only one pair. When the renovation of the lamp with the burned LED is made, it is changed entirely.

    The lamp shapes are round, cylindrical and other. Connecting to the power supply is performed through threaded or pin socles.

    Under general lighting, lamps are selected with 2700K, 3500K and 5000K. The gradation of the spectrum can be any. They are often used to illuminate advertising and in decorative purposes.

    The simplest driver diagram for powering the lamp from the network is shown in the figure below. The number of parts here is minimal, due to the presence of one or two quenching resistors R1, R2 and counter-parallel inclusion of HL1, HL2 LEDs. So they protect each other from the reverse voltage. At the same time, the flicker frequency of the lamp increases to 100 Hz.

    The simplest LED lamp connection circuit in 220 volts network

    The supply voltage of 220 volts comes through the C1 restrictive capacitor to the rectifier bridge, and then on the lamp. One of the LEDs can be replaced by the usual rectaging, but at the same time the flicker will change to 25 Hz, which will not affect vision.

    Figure below shows the classic LED power supply scheme. It is applied in many models, and it can be extracted to produce repair with your own hands.

    Classic LED lamp switching circuit 220 V network

    On the electrolytic condenser, the straightened voltage smoothes, which eliminates flicker with a frequency of 100 Hz. The R1 resistor discharges the capacitor when the power is turned off.

    do it yourself

    In a simple LED lamp with separate LEDs, you can make repairs with a replacement of faulty items. It easily disassembled, if you carefully separate the base from the glass case. Inside there are LEDs. The MR lamp 16 of their 27 pieces. To access the printed circuit board, on which they are placed, it is necessary to remove the protective glass, going through it with a screwdriver. Sometimes this operation is quite difficult to do.

    LED LED 220 volts

    Rootless LEDs are immediately replaced. The rest should be ringing the tester or submit for each voltage of 1.5 V. Competitive should light up, and the rest are subject to replacement.

    The manufacturer calculates the lamps so that the operating current of the LEDs was as high as possible. This significantly reduces their resource, but the "eternal" devices sell are unprofitable. Therefore, a limiting resistor can be connected in series to LEDs.

    If the lamps are blinking, the cause can be the failure of the C1 condenser. It should be replaced by another, with a nominal voltage of 400 V.

    Re-lamps on LEDs are rarely made. The lamp is easier to make from faulty. In fact, it turns out that the repair and manufacture of a new product is one process. To do this, the LED lamp disassemble and restore the burned LEDs and drivers radio components. There are often original lamps with non-standard lamps, which are in the future it is difficult to find a replacement. A simple driver can be taken from a faulty lamp, and the LEDs are from the old flashlight.

    The driver scheme is assembled according to the classic sample, discussed above. It is only added to the R3 resistor to discharge the C2 capacitor when the VD2 stabilion and vd3 pair is shown to shunt it in case of a break of the LED circuit. You can do with one stabilion, if you correctly choose the stabilization stress. If the condenser choose to voltage more than 220 V, you can do without additional parts. But in this case, its sizes will increase after repair, the board with the details may not fit into the base.

    LED lamp driver

    The driver diagram is given for a lamp of 20 LEDs. If their number is different, it is necessary to pick up the amount of the capacitor C1, so that the current of 20 mA is passed through them.

    The LED-lamp power circuit is most often a batran-informator, and care should be taken when installing with your own hands on a metal lamp so that there is no blockage of the phase or zero to the body.

    Capacitors are selected on the table, depending on the number of LEDs. They can be fixed on an aluminum plate in an amount of 20-30 pcs. For this, the holes are drilled in it, and LEDs are installed on the thermocols. Their soldering is performed consistently. All items can be placed on a glassware of a glassstolite. They are located on the part where there are no printed tracks, with the exception of LEDs. The latter - are attached to soldering outputs on the board. Their length is about 5 mm. The device is then assembled in the lamp.

    Table lamp on LEDs

    Lamp at 220 V. Video

    On the manufacture of the LED lamp on 220 in your own hands you can learn from this video.

    The correctly made self-made diagram of the LED lamp will allow to exploit it for many years. It is possible for it possible. Power supplies can be any: from the usual battery to a 220 volt network.

    For many apartment buildings, the problem of illumination of staircases is relevant: a good lamp is pity there, and cheap quickly fail.

    On the other hand, the quality of lighting in this case is not critical, as people are there very long, then it is quite possible to put a paw foot with elevated ripples. And if so, the diagram of the LED lamp on 220 in turn out completely simple:

    List of denominations:

    • C1 - Tank value Table, 275 V or more
    • C2 - 100 μF (voltage must be more than falling on diodes
    • R1 - 100 ohms
    • R2 - 1 MΩ (for the discharge of the C1 capacitor)
    • VD1 .. VD4 - 1N4007

    I already brought the diagram to connect the LED ribbon to the 220V network so here you can simplify it to throw the current stabilizer. The simplified scheme will not work in a wide voltage range, this is a payment for simplification.

    Condensor C1 is the component that limits the current. And the selection of its value is very important, its value depends on the supply voltage, voltage on successively turned on LEDs and the required current through the LEDs.

    the number of LEDs sequentially, pcs 1 10 20 30 50 70
    voltage on the assembly of LEDs, in 3,5 35 70 105 165 230
    current through LEDs, Ma (C1 \u003d 1000 NF) 64 57 49 42 32 20
    current through LEDs, Ma (C1 \u003d 680NF) 44 39 34 29 22 14
    current through LEDs, Ma (C1 \u003d 470NF) 30 27 24 20 15
    current through LEDs, Ma (C1 \u003d 330 NF) 21 19 17 14
    current through LEDs, Ma (C1 \u003d 220NF) 14 13 11

    For 1 LED in the assembly, the filter capacitor C2 should be increased to 1000 mg, and for 10 LEDs, up to 470μm.

    On the table, it can be understood that to obtain maximum power (just over 4 W), you need a condenser for 1MKF and 70 consecutable LEDs on 20mA. For more powerful light sources, the LED lamp circuit is better suited to 220 V using the latitude-filled modulation for conversion and stabilization of current through LEDs.

    Schemes based on latitude-pulse are more complex, but it has advantages: they do not need a large limiting capacitor, these schemes have a high efficiency and a wide range of work.

    I ordered several LED lamps in China. The converters of these lamps are the driver chips developed in the same China, of course the quality of the work of these schemes does not reach Western standards, but the cost is more than a democratic.


    So, specifically in the last LED lamps, the WS3413D7P chip is installed, which is a LED driver with an active power factor corrector.


    What do we see in the scheme? All the same diode bridge VD1 - VD4, smoothing capacitor C1. The rest of the same components are needed for the operation of the D1 microcircuit. The R1 resistor is needed to feed the chip in the initial moment, and after launching the chip begins to eat from its output through the R5 chain, VD5. Capacitor C2 filters power to its own needs. Capacitor C3 is used to set the conversion frequency. The R2 resistor is needed to measure the current through the LEDs. The divider on resistors R3, R4 allows the chip to receive information about the voltage on the LED assembly. The inductance coil L1 and C4 condenser are needed to convert pulse energy into constant.

    There is a bunch of other varieties of chips, but the main types of high-voltage drivers of LEDs are only three: based on capacitive resulting resistance, active quenching current stabilizer and pulsed current stabilizer.

    Navigating on records

    15 Thoughts ON " LED lamp diagram 220 V

    1. Igor

      Even with the "thrown" stabilizer, the LED light bulb for the entrance is too expensive. It is better to screw the usual light bulb "Ilyich Edison" with a diode, which is mounted in a slightly upgraded cartridge.

      1. Valery

        Not in the cartridge, in the switch, there is more space.

    2. Greg.

      I do not know what Igor saw too expensive here, but, if you save on full, you can throw up resistance and bridge. Leave: C1, as reactive resistance, one diode to straighten the change and C2 (increase by 2-3 times) for smoothing the ripples. The cost of food and replacement of incandescent bulbs is much higher than, even the initial version of the scheme. Very much they are uneconomical, and in all angles. Therefore, it is possible to get rid everywhere where only you can. And in the entrances - it is archival and archive, as Ilyich said.

    3. admin. Record author

      The lamp is increasing the resource, it is written on the box 1000 h, with 24-hour work it is 42 days. At best, the bulb will last for several months.
      The nutrition of the lamp of one-alto-voltage voltage should significantly increase the resource (supposedly up to 100 times), only the light output will fall more than twice. And the light bulb will flicker with a frequency of 50 Hz.
      To return the frequency to 100 Hz, it is enough to turn on the two identical light bulbs sequentially - and the resource will increase and the frequency will not decrease.

    4. oleksandr

      In the first scheme, the C1 capacitor should be taken to a higher allowable voltage in the network 220 V. This active voltage is maximum 220 * 1.42 \u003d approximately 320 in moreover, as a rule, on the condenser, it is indicated for a constant voltage and in the network 50 hertz. I recommend taking no less than 450 V. One diode as Greg writes will not work so on the LEDs or the rectifier diode will act inverse voltage. I recommend throwing out the diode bridge and C2 parallery LEDs in the reverse polarity to deliver the diol one period will go through the other Diode LED through the power diode. LED can be taken from non-functional flashlights.

    5. Greg.

      Well, the reverse voltage of the LEDs must withstand, but the idea is good. Why lose one period? C2 - throw away, yes, instead of the power proposed by Oleksandr, we put another light - let them blink alternately, reinforcing the overall light stream and protecting each other from the back voltage. And considering that the superwatch LEDs, in some lanterns toured pieces of 20, you can throw a lot. You can also take entirely, in many hand lights - the handle is made in the form of an extended bulb of circular dispersion.

    6. oleksandr

      This scheme can be not only in the entrance as implies (Igor) but anywhere, such as the coverage of the household site according to the GREG scheme through a lowering transformer for safety and two groups of LEDs included parallery and in the opposite polarity. The cable lighting, summer shower.

    7. Anatoly

      I often saw in the entrances flickering incandescent bulbs, where the "tricky" cartridge was used with one diode. In my very thing for the entrance, energy savings and a non-primary look. Here for the house scheme number 1 is quite suitable, I will copy it yourself.

    8. Nikolai

      disassembled "silent" LED lamp for 11 watts (100 equivalent to infection). The fact that the author calls the driver, the usual inverter, the scheme of which entered the life everywhere, from the light bulbs to computers and welding machines. So on my lamp costs 20 diode light-emitting elements. Exploring them, I came to the conclusion that they are included as a Christmas garland - consistently. Detect a faulty diode was not difficult. Soldering the jumper from the resinte of about 50 ohms, the lamp recovered. So the light emissions do not work at 9.8 by olts and on all the voltage issued by the inverter. That is, 220 volts.
      Dale - I have a lantern Era bat, with a 6 volt battery and a luminescent lamp. This lamp shines very humounded with its 7 watts. And the battery grabs for 4 hours. What I did - dropped from the "Driver" scheme a diode bridge and a board with light emissions. In the point of the soldering of the wires from the inverter designated + and -, soaked this bridge by observing polarity. A variable voltage has filed an alternate voltage to the bridge input. The lamp earned as it should. The light output remained the same as from the network of 220 volts. Since the idling of the generator provided this stress on light emissions.
      Something like that.