What materials are they built from?

If the barn is located close to the house and you are concerned about its appearance, it makes sense to use the same material as when building the house. If you don’t want to spend a large amount on a household building, you can choose the finish so that you can’t tell from afar. In most cases, this is not very difficult: there are many technologies and many materials very accurately reproduce the appearance of expensive finishing materials. A striking example of this is . It is under a log, timber, brick, stone with different textures. So it is not necessary to use expensive materials to build a barn. It is more practical to use inexpensive construction technology, and then sheathe it with a material with a texture similar to the decoration of the main building.

How to quickly and cheaply build a barn

The fastest and at the same time inexpensive option for building a barn is by. The frame can be wooden or, it is sheathed on the outside with a finish, a roof is put on and that's it, the barn is ready. If the barn is planned to be wooden, it is assembled from timber and boards. A metal barn can be more conveniently made from a profiled pipe: a square section and welding and joining are much easier. There is also a special metal frame. It is assembled on self-tapping screws, and the entire structure is ordered and manufactured at the factory. Such houses are considered the cheapest, barns are unlikely to be expensive. The assembly of both a metal and a wooden shed takes several days: it has been checked more than once.

The frame building is light, so the foundation for the barn needs to be lightweight. In most cases, columns, concrete blocks are sufficient, sometimes screw piles are installed or bored piles are made. On more difficult soils and for those who love reliability, you can build a monolithic or prefabricated () shallow strip foundation.

Another option. It is suitable for soils from which water drains well, and subsoil waters are located deep. Then they mark out a plot that is 50 cm larger than the planned barn in each direction, remove the sod and make sand and gravel bedding. A strapping beam is laid on the compacted rubble and floor logs are attached to them (treated with an anti-separator for direct contact of the wood with the ground). That's all. No complications.

This is far from the best option: even with a low level of groundwater and careful processing of wood, the barn will not last long. If that suits you, then you can do that.

Foundation for a frame shed

All types of pile or columnar foundations involve the location of single supports along the perimeter: always at the corners of the building and at the junction of lintels (partitions), if any. The installation step of the supports depends on the size of the shed and on which logs you plan to use. The larger the span, the larger the cross section required.

For example, for a barn width of 2 meters, you can put only two rows of posts and the logs will be 150 * 50 mm (in extreme cases, 150 * 40 mm). If the width of the barn is 3 meters, then either put intermediate supports (posts, piles), or take a board 150 * 70 mm. Calculate what will be cheaper in your region, and choose.

With a board width of 100 mm, the floor sags noticeably underfoot. So you have to make a lag installation step of about 30 cm. Then there is no deflection at all, or it is insignificant (it depends on the weight).

The fastest way to make a foundation is on ready-made blocks: you can buy them or make them yourself. Under them, pits are dug a little larger than the blocks. Sand is poured at the bottom, rammed, then gravel, it is also rammed. The thickness of the bedding in a compacted form is 20-30 cm. Blocks are installed on it, and the lower harness is already mounted on the blocks.

If we are talking about a shallow strip foundation, then the trench is dug 40-60 cm deep relative to the ground level, the width of the tape is about 25 cm, and the trench itself should be at least half a meter or more wider: the bottom is leveled and rammed into it. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom and rammed again.

A frame is knitted from a 12-14 mm rod. Four ribbed longitudinal rods are connected using frames made of a smooth rod 6-8 mm. The dimensions of the frames should be such that all reinforcement is at least 5 cm from the edges of the tape. For example, if the foundation is 40 * 25 cm, then the bars are tied into a structure with a rectangular section of 30 * 15 cm.

A connected frame is installed in the formwork, which is then poured at least M-200

Do-it-yourself wooden frame barn: step by step with a photo

A frame shed measuring 6 * 3 meters was built. The roof is shed, covered with ondulin. The height of the front wall is 3 meters, the rear wall is 2.4 m. Operation has shown that with such a difference in heights, snow does not accumulate much (Len. region).

Standard blocks FBS 600 * 300 * 200 were used as the foundation for the barn. They are laid on a sand and gravel bedding 25 cm thick. Cut-off waterproofing is laid on top of the blocks - a layer of roofing material, on bituminous mastic. A layer of “hydrotex” is still glued on top of the same mastic. Such a cake was made because the groundwater level is high, it was necessary to protect the building from dampness.

Start building a barn. Waterproofing is laid on the foundation, a strapping is laid on it, and a beam is attached to the strapping

A beam with a section of 150 * 150 mm was laid on the waterproofing (all lumber processed). It was connected in half a tree, beaten with nails - 100 * 4 mm. For those who are unfamiliar with carpentry, you can join the bars end-to-end, nail reinforced corners to the joints from the inside, and a mounting plate from the outside.

In this embodiment, the frame was not attached to the blocks. In regions with high wind loads, this is unjustified. You can fasten it with the help of studs: through them, through the beam, into the block, a hole of the same diameter is drilled (12-14 mm). A pin is driven into it, the bolt is then tightened with a key. To hide the hat, you can drill a hole under it.

The next step is fixing the floor lag. Installed on the edge of the board 150 * 60 mm. They are attached to the harness with special brackets of the appropriate size. Fastened on nails 100 * 4 mm.

The logs were aligned along the upper edge of the strapping beam. Everything must be even, otherwise the floor will be hard to lay. You may have to level with a planer or redo it.

The frame was assembled using the "platform" technology: first, the floor was laid, and the walls were mounted on it. The wall frame or part of it is assembled on the floor. In some cases, they are immediately sheathed from the outside, if slab material is chosen for sheathing. And already in this form (with or without sheathing) they rise, stand vertically and are fixed.

There is a second technology "balloon". According to it, the frame is mounted gradually: corner posts of the frame are mounted on the strapping or even immediately on the blocks. They are level in all planes. A rope is pulled between them, along which the rest of the racks are then put up. They are also nailed one at a time, fastened together with slopes and temporary crossbars.

In this case, the "platform" technology was chosen and OSB 18 mm thick was laid on the logs. In general, the floor can be made from boards, plywood (moisture resistant), OSB, etc. The board will need 20, plywood - 13-15 mm, but moisture resistant is needed (OSB is moisture resistant by default).

Next, the assembly of the walls began. The frame is completely knocked down: the lower harness, racks, upper harness. In this form, it is installed exactly along the edge of the strapping beam, exposed, strengthened with safety struts, stops, and slopes. It is nailed through the flooring to the strapping beam. Nails were taken 200 * 4 mm.

To assemble the frame, boards 100 * 50 mm were used, the distance between the racks was 600 mm, the rafters were installed with the same pitch. The rafter system was assembled from 150 * 40 mm.

Window and door openings are reinforced - two boards are nailed, which are nailed together in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The load here is greater, therefore reinforcement is required. Gates are provided in one of the ends - for loading / unloading bulky items. Therefore, in this wall (shown in the photo) there are only corner posts and reinforced ones for fastening the wings.

Since the roof is shed, the rafter system is simple: they are laid on the edge of the boards that are selected for the rafters. Their length is greater, since a roof overhang is required. It is usually 30-50 cm on each side. In this embodiment, with a barn width of 3 meters, the length of the rafter legs (taking into account the slope) was 3840 mm.

They were nailed obliquely - two on each side. It can be strengthened by installing corners: this way it will withstand even significant wind and snow loads.

The walls outside were sewn up with OSB 9.5 mm thick.

Installed doors, made small steps.

The final touches were the wind board. Then the barn was sheathed with clapboard and painted to match the rest of the buildings on the site. A do-it-yourself barn on a finished foundation was built in two days off. Clapboard lining and painting were much later - almost a month later.

The final barn…beautiful

The unattractive foundation is sewn up with cut-to-size asbestos sheets. The shed turned out beautiful.

Barn with a gable roof made of metal

This barn was built alone. The building is also framed: the cheapest way. In this case, the assembly method - "balloon" - the gradual setting of the racks. It all starts the same way: first they made columns for the foundation. Only this time brick.

As you can see, studs are mounted in the corner posts. Holes are drilled in the strapping beam and it is put on studs. They can be made not only in the corners, but also on intermediate pillars too: it will hold on tighter.

This shed has a small porch, so a transverse beam is installed at the required distance. And it will be supported by a wall. Under it, columns are also pre-made.

Logs can also be attached with a notch. Then a notch is cut out in the strapping beam in the form of a log. In depth, it should not exceed 30% of the thickness of the beam, because the log is cut so that it stands flush with the strapping. This method is more labor intensive.

Next, the frame was assembled: corner posts 100 * 100 mm, intermediate - 50 * 100 mm, the upper trim and rafter system were assembled from the same board. The triangles at the top are reinforced with overhead metal plates. Smaller plates were also attached at the junction of the upper strapping bar and racks. They were joined end-to-end without cutting, nailed on top and obliquely. The plates have reduced the likelihood of folding under side loads.

The frame was sheathed with OSB sheets - the most convenient size for construction. Subsequently, the walls will be finished with wood siding.

Sheathing, by the way, does not have to be plywood or OSB. You can fasten the lining or board immediately and the racks. But then, when assembling the frame, you need to put slopes: without the rigidity of the plate material, the building will be flimsy. If mowing is not set, you can swing by hand.

After installing the braces, you can stuff a board, lining, block house, imitation of a bar - the choice is yours.

For those who care about the appearance of the building, a few ideas on how to make the barn beautiful in video format.

Video about the construction of wooden sheds

The barn turned out beautiful, but not cheap. But decent in size, strong and in appearance does not differ from the house - it fits into the composition. Everything is shown / painted in detail, there is one violation: the waterproofing under the metal tile is laid vertically. Even with good gluing of the strips, sooner or later the water will make a path for itself. The rest is all right.

In this case, the do-it-yourself barn was built on the cheapest, probably, foundation: concrete was poured into the old tires. On these "pillars" the frame stands. Naturally, you need to put them on a flat, reliable surface and they themselves must be on the same level. In terms of strength, the tacon base will not yield to the best concrete blocks, and maybe even surpass them. The tires protruding from under the structure can be closed by making a step and subsequently placing flowers on it or using it for other needs. Even more practical.

Another video with a step-by-step illustration of the construction of a frame barn from a bar.

Dimensional drawings

A few drawings to help you navigate the dimensions of the building. Adjust as necessary to suit your site or needs.

Single Pitch Roof Shed - Rack Layout Drawing

Square barn - dimensions

This building does not strike the imagination with its architectural forms. Nevertheless, the need for a good barn arises for every owner of the estate. Someone wants to acquire a warehouse for home belongings or a workshop, someone is going to breed chickens or rabbits.

It’s good when the idea of ​​a farm building comes to mind when building a residential building. There are no problems with the material at this time. Surplus blocks, timber, sheet metal - everything can be put into action.

But when the idea of ​​\u200b\u200ba utility room appears later, you have to puzzle over what to build it from.

In this article, we offer an overview of options that have been tested in practice. We hope that getting to know them will help you decide which barn to build in the country.

Frame construction technology is applicable to any structures. Sheds are no exception to the rule. The main idea is to create a rigid spatial "skeleton" that perceives loads. It can be assembled from a wooden beam or from a profile pipe. For sheathing, any sheet and molded materials are suitable.

Wood (slab, board)

An inexpensive option for any task: keeping animals, garage, warehouse, workshop. A good owner always has some timber, a couple of cubes of a board or a slab in stock. They can be used to build such a building.

Do not dig wooden frame posts into the ground. Even impregnation with an antiseptic will not be able to protect them from decay for a long time. Therefore, before assembling the frame, you need to think about the foundation. It is best to use columnar or pile. Having made it, proceed to the installation of the support frame from the timber. Racks are attached to it. On their upper ends expose the rafters of a pitched roof. Having assembled a wooden "skeleton", it is sheathed with a board or slab.

Over time, cracks appear in the cladding from a conventional edged board. Therefore, it is better to use grooved material for work. If it is not there, then wooden planks should be filled into the joints.

Another simple way to protect walls from blowing is to install herringbone sheathing, when each top row of boards is pressed with its edge onto the bottom one.

To build a warm shed for wintering cattle, you need to attach a wind-moisture-proof film to the racks and fill it with vertical bars for attaching the skin. After that, insulation begins, laying insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene) in the inside of the frame.

Insulation of a wooden frame outbuilding

OSB plate

Thinking about what to build a barn from, many opt for OSB boards. At a cost of 1 m2, this material is slightly more expensive than boards, but it is less hassle in cutting and installing it.

The main quality condition is to set the frame racks so that the joints of the skin plates are in their center. If everything is done accurately and evenly, then facing takes a minimum of time.

OSB board practically does not rot and does not warp from moisture. However, you will have to paint the walls. Not only for aesthetic reasons, but also as an additional protection.

Metal (profiled)

The remains of the metal left after the installation of the fence can be put into the barn. The frame for it is best made from a profile pipe, but a wooden beam is also suitable for this purpose.

For old water pipes, you can find a use. Having concreted them in the ground, you will get reliable racks. They are fixed (by welding or by bolts) runs for fastening the cladding.

Using steel pipes as posts

Sheet metal without insulation is an option for a cold warehouse. If the building is set aside for a workshop or for keeping animals, then its walls will have to be sheathed with insulation from the inside.

Polycarbonate

It makes sense to use this material for frame cladding in the construction of a closed-range poultry block. Transparent walls are not needed for a warehouse, garage and workshop, although if there is no alternative, it can also be used.

According to the technology of installation on the frame, honeycomb plastic is similar to the OSB plate. In both cases, self-tapping screws are used for fastening. Only for polycarbonate you need to buy special ones with a wide hat and a sealing washer.

Slate

A popular improvised material for outbuildings. The old wave slate left after the replacement of the roof can be taken to work. The best basis for its fastening is wooden racks and girders.

A more aesthetic solution is a flat asbestos-cement sheet. Large surface area reduces installation time. Resistance to frost, moisture and the sun several times increases the service life of such a structure compared to a plank one.

Straw

Considering the materials for building a barn, few people realize that ordinary straw can be used in this capacity. More precisely, pressed blocks from it. In rural areas, you can always buy this cheap and environmentally friendly material inexpensively.

Straw "bricks" do not burn. They are quite durable and hold heat well. True, it is quite difficult to assemble walls from them without using intermediate racks. Therefore, pressed straw blocks are most often used to fill gaps in a wooden frame.

The best way to finish such walls is to spray clay plaster on a steel mesh.

The cost of thatched construction is minimal. In terms of its thermal characteristics, it significantly exceeds sheds made of brick and cellular blocks.

sawdust concrete

For an auxiliary building, you can use the technology of formwork monolith with a frame. The most accessible material for this work is sawdust concrete. Bringing a couple of wood waste machines from the nearest sawmill and buying cement is not a problem.

The main quality condition in this business is a strong and even formwork. So don't skimp on it. Make shields from OSB and securely fasten them to the frame. After that, you can proceed to the layer-by-layer pouring of a mixture of sawdust with cement mortar.

Pallets (pallets)

They can be bought inexpensively by visiting any wholesale base. Pallets are not used as cladding. They have too big gaps between the boards. Walls are built from wooden pallets. To do this, they are placed on the foundation and pulled together with bolts or threaded studs.

Having assembled the walls and installed the rafters, proceed to the cladding. For this work, we recommend using OSB boards.

firewood and clay

Anyone who wants to make a barn cheaply for pigs and other domestic animals can adopt an eco-technology called. The union of wood, clay or cement-sand mortar gives an excellent result.

There are two varieties of this technology: laying walls from logs on clay mortar with dressing of seams like a brick and filling the gaps between the frame racks with them.

The high strength of clay and wood structures is optimally combined with good energy saving indicators.

Sheds made of blocks, bricks and stone

Blocks of cellular foam and aerated concrete are most often used for the construction of solid outbuildings. Their main advantages are low price, large size, precise facet geometry and low thermal conductivity.

For year-round operation, the ceiling under a shed roof must be thermally insulated with mineral wool. When using a gable roof, you can do without additional insulation.

Wood concrete blocks are another popular material for utility rooms. They are not as fragile as aerated concrete and at the same time strong and warm. The plaster on the rough surface of the wood concrete keeps perfectly. Therefore, it is most often chosen for decoration.

Winter sheds made entirely of brick are rare today. The main reason is the high labor intensity of the work. Therefore, in practice, this material is combined with blocks (arbolite, gas silicate), using it for external cladding.

The stone from the quarry, left after pouring the foundation, will find its place in the walls of the utility block. You can't call such a building warm. For winter operation, it must be insulated from the inside with a mineral wool board and sheathed with flat slate or wooden clapboard.

Flagstone is best suited for laying walls - a stone of calcareous rocks of a flat shape.

Beam, logs and sleepers

When building a house from logs or timber, they must be purchased in such a way that there is enough for a barn. Buildings made of the same material look much better than different types.

It is better to entrust the assembly to specialists. Many of those who did this work with their own hands later honestly admit to their mistakes and mistakes.

A frame made of timber or logs as a barn is the best solution for year-round keeping of animals and arranging a workshop. For a cold warehouse, it will be cheaper and easier to assemble a regular frame, sheathing it with slate, board or metal profile.

Occasionally on estates there are outbuildings made of old sleepers. Today, wood is rarely used to make them, as it has been replaced by reinforced concrete. However, in the remote corners of Russia, you can still find deposits of sleepers that have served their time.

If you happen to be able to buy them, then there will be no special problems with the construction of a farm building. You can’t call such a structure beautiful, but you can’t refuse it in good quality and durability.

The assembly of the walls is done simply: the sleepers are laid one on top of the other, bandaging them at the corners. The walls are fastened in height with steel brackets driven into the side faces of the beams. In corner joints, for greater rigidity, the brackets are driven in from above, connecting the joined crowns with them.

There is another installation method. In this case, part of the sleepers along the perimeter of the building is vertically dug into the ground. The rest are cut with a chainsaw so that a protrusion is formed at the ends - a spike. A groove is formed on the pillars by stuffing two bars onto the sleepers.

After that, sleepers are inserted into the prepared grooves in tiers, fixing them together with brackets.

Prefabricated barns

The progressive method of prefabricated construction is also applicable to outbuildings. The "Designer" for the barn can be ordered along with the purchase of a house kit or done when the need arises for a utility room.

There are three design options for prefabricated buildings:

• SIP panels;
• sandwich (metal-insulation-metal);
• plastic panels.

With your own hands from this list, you can only make SIP panels. To do this, you will need an OSB board, glue, foam and a wooden beam. The assembly is carried out according to the "sandwich" principle. Having laid flat a sheet of chipboard, an adhesive composition is applied to it and the foam is laid so that there is room along the contour for installing the docking beam. After that, a second sheet is glued onto the insulation, and the load is evenly laid out on top.

The panels are mounted by inserting docking bars between them. They are screwed to the edges of the plates with self-tapping screws. To prevent blowing at the docking areas, mounting foam is used.

Sandwich panels are familiar to everyone who has seen modern construction change houses. By their design, they are similar to OSB boards. In addition to polystyrene, rigid mineral wool can be used in them. The outer casing is made of steel corrugated board. For installation, such panels require a metal frame.

It should be noted that the price of sheds made of SIP panels and sandwich is higher than the cost of frame and block structures. The main advantages of the fully assembled version are high installation speed and mobility.

The ubiquitous composite plastic has also reached the outbuildings. Today, houses are made from it, in which you can store garden tools or equip a small workshop. They are not suitable for keeping domestic animals. The reasons are the small area and the lack of insulation.

You can't call cheap plastic "containers". Despite this, ease of assembly, strength, aesthetic appearance and lack of corrosion attract the attention of owners of private estates and summer cottages.

In every house there are always a lot of items and household tools that simply do not have a suitable place inside a residential building. Sheds or garages are usually used to store such things, if the local area allows.

However, often there is no place on the site to build a free-standing structure, so the owners decide to make an extension to their house. In this article we will tell you how to make a shed roof on an extension and what materials you may need for this.

How to make a roof extension to the house

A lightweight roof structure, which consists of only one inclined slope, is commonly called a shed roof. Let's look at how to make a roof on an extension to the house, what are the nuances and features of construction. This design includes a rafter system, gables, lathing and finishing roofing material. A feature of the addition of a shed roof to the house is the need to fix it to one of the load-bearing walls of the main building.

The structural elements of a shed roof of this type are as follows:

1. Mauerlat. This is the main support beam, which accounts for the main weight of all truss structures and roofing material of the roof. It also redistributes the load on the load-bearing walls and the foundation of the building. For laying this element, hard wood treated with antiseptics is used. When deciding to build a shed roof of an extension to the house with their own hands, one Mauerlat beam is fixed on the bearing wall of the building, and the second is fixed on vertical supports.
2. rafters. These elements support the roofing material and transfer its mass further to the Mauerlat beam. To create rafter legs, a board with a section of 50 × 150 or 100 × 150 mm is used. To attach them to the support beam, cuts are made at both ends of the rafters.
3. Struts. These are additional supporting elements of the frame that support the rafter legs if the slope length exceeds 4 m. At one end they rest against the rafters, and at the other end against the Mauerlat.
4. crate. For its arrangement, boards with dimensions of 40 × 150 mm are used. They are stuffed over the rafters with a certain pitch to create a support for laying the finish coat. A solid crate made of plywood or particle boards is performed for a soft roof.

It is worth noting that the drawing of a barn with a shed roof attached to the house can be done independently, since such a design is the simplest of all possible. It does not require complex mathematical calculations. True, special attention should be paid to the method of docking the roof of the extension with the main building. It is important to take care of reliable waterproofing of the seam in order to avoid leaks.

Design calculations and drawing of a shed roof

Of course, in order for the finished structure to be durable and not cause trouble during the rainy season or in the cold season, before starting construction, it is necessary to draw up a project for a barn with a pitched roof that will adjoin the house. In this case, it will be necessary to calculate the surface area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope, its slope, the length of the rafter legs and the difference in the height of the supports. All this should contain the project of the roof of the house. Correct calculations will ensure the durability of the roof and its efficiency. You can determine the required parameters using ready-made calculator programs or using formulas.

Manually the desired values ​​are calculated as follows:

• The angle of inclination of the roof is determined as the result of dividing the difference in the height of the supporting pillars by the width of the structure. As a rule, it is in the range of 15-40º and is determined based on the weather conditions of the area and the requirements of roofing material manufacturers.
• With a given slope slope, the difference in the heights of the supporting pillars can be calculated by multiplying the angle by the width of the extension. These parameters are calculated so that during the construction of a shed roof of an extension to the house, the desired slope can be observed.
• To determine the length of the rafters, it is necessary to divide the difference in the height of the supports by the sine of the slope of the slope. The resulting value will allow you to calculate the amount of material required to create an extension truss system to the house.
• You can calculate the surface area by multiplying the length and width of the slope - the parameter is used to determine the amount of roofing and waterproofing materials for the roof. Please note that you need to purchase them with a 15-20% margin for trimming and overlapping.

Weather conditions of the area significantly affect the durability of the roof. So, if significant snow loads are expected, it is better to make the slopes steeper, and if windy weather prevails, more gentle, with a slope of less than 15º.

What materials will be required for the roof of the barn

Let's think about cheap barn roofing to cut costs. The most reasonable from the point of view of safety from wind and heavy rainfall would be the construction of a barn with a shed roof, since fairly inexpensive materials will be needed. In addition, you will not have any problems with their purchase - everything is freely available in stores. And the number of consumables will be much less than that of roofs of a more complex design.

During the construction of the roof of an extension to the house, you will need:

1. Wood. You will need a pine beam with a section of 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm, edged boards 50 × 150 mm, unedged boards 40 × 150 mm and a rail with a section of 25 × 50 mm for the construction of a truss system. The moisture content of the material should not exceed 15-16%, and its surface should be free of chips, cracks and stains. By using deep penetration antiseptics, rotting and mold formation due to penetrating moisture can be avoided.
2. Roofing. You can choose the right material for quality and cost from a wide range of varieties on the market. A budget option would be slate, corrugated board or roofing material. Twice as expensive will cost a better and presentable outwardly material - a soft roof, ondulin, metal tile. When it comes to covering a winter garden, greenhouse or veranda, you can use polycarbonate - a transparent material that perfectly transmits sunlight, thermal insulation material.
3. Waterproofing. This layer is designed to protect the wooden roof truss system of the extension from moisture penetration and, as a result, damage to structures. For this, roofing material, film or diffuse membrane can be used. However, in practice, roofing material showed itself in the best way, since it is the most durable of the above.
4. Mounts. There are many options for mounting consumables when mounting a roof - self-tapping screws with rubber washers, nails, anchors, metal corners. In the case of self-tapping screws, their consumption per 1 m 2 of area is about 10 pieces. So, to calculate the amount, the consumption rate must be multiplied by the area.

Please note that the choice of roofing similar to the main building will make the extension a harmonious continuation of the house. However, if this is not possible due to financial capabilities, it is worth choosing a material that is as close as possible in color. The choice of lightweight materials (ondulin, roofing material or corrugated board) will make it possible to create a lightweight, simple frame.

Do-it-yourself method of building a roof structure

So, if you still decide to make the roof of an extension to the house with your own hands, after designing and purchasing materials, you can begin construction. To work, you will need a hacksaw or grinder, screwdriver, planer, drill, stapler, ruler, marker and lace.

Construction is carried out in several stages:

• Using anchor bolts or metal studs, the first Mauerlat beam is installed on the load-bearing wall of the house. Rafter legs will be laid on it, so the fixation must be reliable.
• The second Mauerlat beam is mounted either on the load-bearing wall of the future extension, or on the supporting posts. Their height should be lower than the main load-bearing wall of the house in order to provide the necessary roof slope. On the posts, the beam is fastened with studs, and on the load-bearing wall - with anchor bolts.
• Next, an estimated number of rafter legs of the same length is made and cuts are made in each of them for laying on the Mauerlat. The extreme rafters are attached first, then a lace is pulled between them, and all the remaining legs are attached at this level.
• Waterproofing is laid over the rafters. The roofing material at the junction of the extension with the main house is brought to the wall by 15-20 cm and melted to it using a gas burner.
• The fastening of the waterproofing layer is carried out with a counter-lattice rail nailed to the rafters. Perpendicular to the counter-lattice, the main crate is mounted under the roofing material in increments of 10-15 cm.
• The last step will be laying the roofing on the crate. You need to start the flooring from right to left and from bottom to top, laying sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm. On gentle roofs, the overlap of the material is increased, and the joints are additionally coated with a sealing compound.

It is worth noting that the movement of water on a shed roof will be carried out in only one direction, therefore, it is necessary to install high-quality gutters. Lastly, you can proceed to the insulation work and the final filing of the gables.

A shed on a suburban area is vital. Otherwise, you will have to store garden tools and equipment in the house itself. Naturally, this will not contribute to a comfortable stay. A barn is a simple structure of a lightweight type. Making it with your own hands is quite possible for most skilled men.

What is a frame shed for?

An outbuilding in the form of a barn on a suburban area is vital. It is intended for storing garden and garden tools, ranging from a simple shovel or chopper to a walk-behind tractor, a watering pump and other expensive equipment. In addition, it is simply unsafe to store pesticides, fertilizers or a small supply of gasoline in other rooms.

Thanks to the frame shed, it will be possible to store all garden tools

Benefits of frame construction

The main advantage of the frame structure is its quick erection and low labor intensity of construction. The benefits are as follows:

1. The possibility of using lumber of the second or third grade.
2. Ease of design.
3. The ability to quickly move to another place, if provided for by the design of the building. To do this, the support frame is made with a small ledge and a notch at an angle of 45 degrees, forming a kind of skid.
4. Fast erection.

If we talk about the shortcomings of structures of this kind, then they arise only in connection with design or execution errors.

A frame shed is built simply and quickly

Preparation for construction, design and calculations

Preparation for the construction of the barn consists of the following activities:

1. Location determination. Since this building is intended to store items and materials needed for use in the garden, the barn must be placed on the site adjacent to the front garden. To save space, it is better to build it closer to the boundary. The rules establish that the barn should not be closer than one meter to the neighboring site.
2. The dimensions of the building in the plan are best chosen for reasons of rational use of materials. So, the optimal option would be a size of 6x4 meters. At the same time, the length corresponds to the dimensions of the standard lumber length - 6 meters, and the width assumes a two-meter long departure, which can be used for racks on the low (rear) side of the building. For the front, you can cut the timber in half and take it completely on the racks.
3. Thus, the main dimensions of the barn with a shed roof were determined, the angle of inclination of which will be about 14 degrees. This is an ideal building option in terms of the rational use of materials.
4. The distance between the racks of the frame should be no more than one and a half meters. At the extreme openings, braces must be installed to counteract wind loads. The size of the beam for them should be the same as the size of the bearing support posts. If a beam of 100x100 millimeters is used, then the jibs can be made from a beam of 50x100. In total, you will need 8 pieces of such parts.
5. The upper trim of the frame must be made from a bar of the same size as the lower one, in our case it is 100x100 mm.
6. For rafters, you can use a bar 50x150 mm, installed vertically in width.
7. Wall cladding from the outside should be made from any waterproof sheet material: plywood, OSB boards, drywall. A common material for walls is unedged board. Tes must be sanded before installation.

Let's deal with the supporting structure. The barn does not need a massive foundation. It can be installed on small concrete blocks, using them in the corners and in the middle of the walls. However, in areas with high wind loads, it is better to use screw anchors. This is a version of the screw pile in miniature. It is enough to install them at a distance of two meters from each other, the total need for such parts will be 8 pieces.

If you use the frame device scheme, you can make a solid barn with your own hands

Preparing the site for the shed

The site for this building is prepared as follows:

1. It is necessary to free up space from the fertile layer, which will require the removal of soil to a depth of 30 centimeters. The surface must be carefully leveled and compacted.
2. After that, it is necessary to arrange a drainage layer by pouring sand 12-15 centimeters thick into the recess. Fill the rest with gravel of medium fraction, compact the entire surface.

Thus, the likelihood of stagnation of water under the barn, which will easily leave through the drainage, is reduced.

Calculation of the need for materials

The amount of materials needed to build a barn is conveniently calculated in tabular form.

Table: an example of calculating materials for building a barn

In addition to the above, you will need a plastic film for a moisture protection device. With a width of three meters, it needs 20 linear meters for the outer protective layer and the same for the inner one. Depending on the price indicators, it can be replaced with roofing material.

The final covering of the roof is taken from the simplest of financial considerations. Suitable ordinary slate or fiberglass, galvanized or painted corrugated board. When calculating the need, it is necessary to take into account overhangs with a width of 0.3–0.5 meters.

Interior decoration is best made from sheet material. Useful and leftovers from the decoration of the house.

Thermal insulation in an unheated barn room has the opposite meaning. In hot weather, it is important to keep the temperature from overheating in the sun. In such a situation, without thermal insulation, it will be very uncomfortable to be in it. It is important to perform high-quality waterproofing of the walls.

A frame shed can also be built on poles

Barn building tools

For such a simple structure, the need for a tool is small.

Table: barn construction tool

Step-by-step instructions for building a frame barn

To build a barn, you need to perform a series of sequential steps:

What to make the foundation

A strong foundation is not needed to build a barn. Often it is installed simply on brick stands. It directly depends on the nature of the soil at the location. If the subsoil layer consists of clay or heavy loam, this threatens with significant soil movements, as a result of which the structure can be skewed with damage to the walls and jamming of the doors. In such a situation, a rather deep foundation is needed, the supporting part of which will be below the freezing level of the soil.

These conditions are met by the following types of support bases:

1. Pile-screw. Screw piles are screwed into the ground to the required depth, their upper ends must be aligned horizontally along the stretched cord. Then, heads are installed on them for attaching the support beam. In addition to the quality of the soil, such a choice can be made when building a barn on a slope.
2. Columnar. For the device, you need to dig (or drill) pits below the level of soil freezing. At the bottom, make drainage from sand (12–15 centimeters) and gravel in approximately the same layer, tamp the backfill. Reinforcement is carried out with a frame of steel bars in the amount of 4–6 pieces vertically, fastened with crossbars. The armored rack must be collected on the surface and immersed in the pit. Install the formwork of the desired height on top of the soil. Pouring concrete into the ground. After seven days, the formwork can be removed and work can continue.

It makes no sense to consider other foundation designs. They are heavier and more expensive in execution: tape, grillage and other types of support bases, and they are inappropriate for a building weighing several hundred kilograms.

Photo gallery: types of lightweight foundations for light buildings

The columnar foundation with a concrete grillage serves as a reliable support Lightweight foundation on piles will withstand loads on unfavorable soils Pile-screw foundation with a wooden grillage for the installation of a barn does not require excavation Strip foundation - a lightweight option for installing a light structure

Frame device

The base for the barn is ready for further installation when the timber trim is installed and fixed on top of the supports. It should represent a regular rectangle, the diagonals of which are equal to each other. The check is made by measuring with a long tape measure or cord.

Frame assembly:

1. Installing a lag for the floor. A bar measuring 50x150 mm is used. The distance between the lags should be 75 cm. Each of them cuts into the strapping beam to a depth of 50 mm. A corresponding cut is also made. You need to fasten it with a nail in the middle and two corners to the body of the strapping beam.
2. Installation of corner posts. Three meters high racks are installed on the front wall, two meters high on the back. The distance between them is 1.5 meters. Corner posts are placed vertically with plumb control. They need to be fixed with temporary jibs, once again check the verticality and fasten to the harness with two corners and two flat plates each. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
3. A cord is stretched between the corner posts and the rest are installed at a specified distance along it. Fastening is made by corners and plates.
4. Installation of the upper strapping from a bar 100x100 mm. Under the inclined bars, the supports are cut with the required slope.
5. Installation of translations for the device of a roof from a bar 50х150 mm. On the support bars, when connecting parts, a tie-in is performed. The translations are fastened with screws or M12 studs with wide washers, two screws per joint.
6. Fixing jib. They need to be placed from the top of the corner posts to the bottom trim. The material for them is a bar 50x100 mm. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
7. Lathing on the walls. It is made from a bar 50x100 mm. Parts are placed in openings formed by racks at a distance of a meter from each other parallel to the strapping. Fastening is carried out using flat plates with self-tapping screws.

As an option, you can consider the manufacture of a barn frame from a profile pipe measuring 60x60x3 mm. The dimensions of the building are the same, the distance from the base of the lower trim to the top should be two meters.

The profile pipe for the frame will ensure long-term operation of the barn

The work is carried out in the following order:

1. Preparation of parts: racks and crates. Metal cutting is done by a grinder. In addition to parts from pipes, you need to prepare metal corners that are installed on each pipe connection. The size of a triangular part made of steel 3 mm thick is 200x200 mm.
2. The frame is welded by electric welding with angle control. The front welds are cleaned, the reinforcement is removed.
3. Before further assembly, the metal frame is treated with a primer, then covered with paint for metal.
4. With a metal base, sheet materials are used for wall cladding: flat slate, fiberglass, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.
5. Moisture protection in this embodiment is necessary. The film is pre-fixed with construction tape.
6. Translations and logs are made from the same timber as with a wooden frame.

Video: building a metal frame for a barn

Floor and wall cladding

Further work on a wooden or steel frame is carried out in almost the same way:

1. Wall covering. It can be made with various sheet materials. For economic reasons, we will opt for an unedged board. Before stuffing the boards on the racks and the crate, it is necessary to install moisture protection from a 200 micron thick polyethylene film or roofing material. You can fix it with a construction stapler on metal brackets.

   Unedged boards are perfect for finishing the walls of the barn

2. Sheathing the back wall with boards should be done in segments two meters long, that is, three parts from each. Fill the first row of boards, on top of which install the second with overlapping slots. Similarly, sheathing the front wall with boards three meters long, as well as the sides of the barn. Trim the end of the side walls in place after the end of the wall cladding.
3. Before laying the roof, install a ceiling covering, which is best made from sheet material. First, arrange an inner crate from a board 25 mm thick, then stretch the moisture protection film, and fasten the front material to it with self-tapping screws.

   For the ceiling in the barn, it is better to use sheet material

4. Insulate the ceiling with any slab or roll material. A popular solution is to use expanded clay with a fraction of 5–10 millimeters. Pour it between transfers and level it. Install moisture protection on top, then the top coat of the roof.
5. To insulate the walls of the barn, you can lay one layer of insulation from the inside.
6. Then, sew on the support strips along the bottom of the lag plane, arrange a crate on them from an edged board 25 mm thick.
7. Install moisture protection.
8. Insulation of the floor is carried out in the same way as the ceiling.
9. Lay a floor covering over the log. First you need to make a draft floor. For it, you can use a cut or unedged board. A finishing coat is placed on top of the finished floor. Under the operating conditions of the barn, it is better to lay the floor with flat slate or cement-bonded particle board.

   The draft floor in the barn is made of boards

10. The last to perform wall cladding from the inside with any sheet material.

Calculation of the need for insulating materials

Thermal insulation of the floor is made with expanded clay. It is advisable to use a fraction of 5-10 millimeters. For wall insulation, it is better to take rolled or slab materials, using the remains of building a house.

How much expanded clay is needed

The volume of this bulk material is determined by the area of ​​the backfill and the thickness of the layer. The floor area is: 6 x 4 = 24 square meters, the backfill layer, taking into account the layer thickness of 0.1 meters, will be 24 x 0.1 = 2.4 cubic meters. For the ceiling, you will need the following amount: 24 x 1.16 = 28 meters, 2, 4 + 2.8 = 5.2 cubes. Coefficient 1.16 takes into account the angle of inclination of the side walls.

How much slab or roll insulation is needed

The need for this material is determined by the area of ​​​​the walls:

1. The frontal wall has an area of ​​6 x 2 = 12 sq. m.
2. The total surface of the side walls will be: 4 x 2.5 x 2 = 20 sq. m.
3. Front wall area: 3 x 8 = 18 sq.m.

Thus, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200binsulation for wall covering will be: 12 + 20 + 18 \u003d 50 square meters.

Photo gallery: finishing work of the barn

Sheathing shed walls is inexpensive and lasts a long time Glass wool reliably keeps the temperature in the barn Laying OSB boards on the floor - a practical option for a barn Material with low thermal conductivity will save the barn from overheating in summer Plywood is a great material for finishing the ceiling in the barn.

All wooden parts must be treated with fire impregnation and antiseptic. Otherwise, the barn will not live long.

Video: building a shed roof barn on your own

The apparent simplicity of construction should not have a relaxing effect on the owner of the site. One way or another, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil. If the movement causes the building to skew, it can jam the door or break the window frames. And also the slightest inaccuracy or mistake in the choice of materials for construction will lead to the loss of costs incurred.