Plumbing in any home, including water is needed for almost everything: for drinking and home maintenance, for kitchens, bathrooms and toilets, for watering plants and much more.

Even in the deep backwoods, the level of comfort of the most unpretentious village hut will increase tremendously if a water pipe is laid in it.

We will not say that this is a trifling matter, especially if the house has long been inhabited, and is not at the planning stage. However, many works can be done by yourself, without the help of specialists and employees. Water for supply to a private house can be taken from a well, from a well, from the nearest reservoir or by connecting to a centralized system.

Plumbing scheme

No need to neglect such an important thing as the scheme of the future plumbing. No need to look for excuses: just start, into the bathroom and into the kitchen. As soon as you have definitely decided for yourself that water in the house is absolutely necessary, depict its gaskets.

It should be understandable, taking into account all additional components: boiler, sediment, filters, collectors, points of consumption.

All this must be noted on your plan, and, of course, the path of the pipe through the building. The distances printed on the drawing will help to calculate in advance the number of pipes required for work.

Laying plumbing in the house can be done in various ways:

• With a collector connection;
• Serial connection of each consumption point.

Sequential

This type of connection is suitable for a very small house with low water consumption and a small number of residents (1-2 people). For large cottages with a large number of permanent residents, using this method is unlikely to be a good idea.

Its essence lies in the fact that near each point of consumption in the dwelling, a tee with a branch is installed, which is connected to the main pipeline that runs through the entire house. If you use water at different points at the same time, the pressure at the most remote will drop significantly, making it difficult to use.

Collector

This type of connection is as follows: a separate pipe is drawn from a common collector to each consumption point. Thanks to this, at each point of water consumption, its pressure will be constant and sufficient. Some pressure losses inside the system will take place, but they are not fundamental, as they are associated with the remoteness of the consumer from the pumping station.

The preference for the collector method will cost the homeowner significantly more, because a much larger number of pipes will be needed.

But convenience and comfort are worth it, right? Below we will talk about the collection method.

The device of the outer part of the water supply

Depending on the period of operation (summer, year-round), the outer part can be hidden in a trench or laid in an open way. Underground utilities are mounted with a slope towards the source of water supply at a depth exceeding the values ​​of soil freezing levels in a particular region. A pipeline mounted above the earth's surface and above the freezing level must be wrapped with a layer of heat-insulating material.

Scheme of the internal water supply

It is necessary to draw it to calculate the consumption of materials and so that you do not have to correct errors after installation. Thanks to the simplest drawings and calculations, it will not be necessary to transfer or change plumbing fixtures to other models due to the discrepancy between their dimensions and the dimensions of the areas surrounding the water intake points.

Scheme of organization of internal water supply

A competent device and a properly made plumbing scheme in a private house includes:

• pipeline;
• water meter units required when connecting to centralized water supply facilities;
• plumbing and faucets;
• water heaters (if hot water supply is provided);
• shut-off and control valves;
• distribution network.

If there are schemes approved by state authorities, you need to compare them with the situation at the facility and follow them exactly. In the absence of any technical documentation, it will be necessary to make working drawings yourself. To do this, a plan is drawn, on which the installation sites of risers and water intake points are marked on a scale.

Important. All independent measurements in the cottage must be performed with one tape measure so that there are no discrepancies in the values. Fixing them is too expensive and not too easy.

Open plumbing in a private house

The pipes of the water supply network can be "bricked" into walls, hidden in the supporting structures of frame houses. Open laying of water supply in a private house is performed only if no other option is possible. It is recommended to minimize the length of pipelines, try to have a minimum number of joints, bends - these are potential causes of leaks. Right angles, which reduce the amount of pressure, are also highly undesirable.

Pipes for laying the water supply system

Water pipes must be light, durable, inert to temperature and chemical effects. Therefore, often a water supply system in a private house is performed using polyethylene (HDPE), polypropylene (PP), polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes or metal-plastic products.

• A beginner can easily cope with the installation of a plastic water supply system; right at the facility from plastic pipes, you can assemble a system of any complexity.
• Strong, almost monolithic connections of elements are carried out by soldering.
• Plastic pipes can be bent, which reduces the number of emergency points and sections.
• Welding is not needed, since combined fittings with metal inserts are used to connect metal parts and assemblies with plastic pipes.
• A plastic pipeline can be upgraded during operation.

Among the priorities of plastic pipes is excellent torsional rigidity, which is necessary in case the electric pump develops a large torque. The diameter of the pipeline is selected, focusing on the power of the pump and the depth of immersion of this equipment. Often the diameter is 40-50 mm.

For laying a plastic pipeline, sliding supports are used, equipping each meter of communications. Sections whose length exceeds 3 m are fixed with ready-made ring compensators.

Plumbing system installation technology

Inside the building, the water supply system consists of piping to water points in the kitchen, in the shower, in the combined bathroom or in the bathroom (and to the washbasin, if there is one in the toilet).

• Regardless of the complexity of the plumbing system in a private house, it usually begins with the installation of ball valves that equip the risers. These devices are necessary for emergency shutdowns.

Beginning of the installation of the plumbing system - installation of a ball valve

• The pipes are laid with a slight slope directed towards the risers, the metal-plastic elements are connected with crimp fittings, the plastic is connected by specific soldering with a special soldering iron.
• Equipment is connected that corresponds to the water supply device chosen by the owner of the system: pressure regulating and spare tanks, heating equipment, if it is planned to be installed, devices for calculating water flow and automatic adjustment.

Important. When electrical appliances are included in the communication water supply network, measures must be taken to ensure grounding and lightning protection.

The installation of local cleaning devices, wastewater pumping devices, and sound insulation devices will help optimize the operation of the plumbing system.

Scheme of installation of filters for water supply

Care and repair

The working condition of the water supply must be constantly monitored. Leaks and other malfunctions must be immediately eliminated, spare containers should be washed and cleaned. The sections of communications laid in the ground are covered with insulating materials containing bitumen, the external pipeline is painted.

In cases of small breaks, the repair of a water supply system in a private house consists in the installation of a bandage with a rubber gasket on the damaged area. To replace the rubber gasket in the absence of a factory product, a flap cut from the top of an old rubber boot, glove, medical tourniquet will help. The size of the "patch" should be significantly larger than the area of ​​damage. The gasket is fixed with a tie or clamp.

The bandage can be glued to the area with a leak. Instead of a rubber gasket, fiberglass is used for adhesive repairs, and epoxy resin serves as a binder. The length of the glued flap should allow it to be wound around the pipe with a hole at least 6 times.

Plumbing repair in a country house is performed using clamps

If you need to repair at a fast pace, the cold welding method is used. The composition is simply covered with a leak, previously degreased with acetone. It will take 10 minutes, and the pipeline will stop passing water.

A fistula in new pipes is repaired by screwing a bolt into the hole drilled for it. This method is not suitable for repairing old pipes, since attempts to make a thread will lead to an increase in the fistula.

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Making plumbing in a private house is a difficult and responsible job, but doable. By choosing the right materials and wiring diagram, you can do all the plumbing work with your own hands, without involving employees. But for beginners who do not have relevant experience, it is advisable to enlist the help of a professional.

Where to start installing plumbing?

At the heart of the installation of any water supply is the selected wiring diagram. Only after its preparation, you can begin the selection of materials and proceed directly to the installation. Also at the planning stage, it is decided how many water points (or users) will be in the house. It will depend on which system to prefer - collector or tee.

Which scheme is better - collector or tee?

The tee wiring diagram for water pipes implies their serial connection to a common riser. So, one pipe is connected to the pipes of cold and hot water. With the help of tees, additional pipes are diverted to individual users, and the pipe itself ends with the connection of the last draw-off point.

The advantages of such a solution:

• ease of installation - no special knowledge is required when connecting additional elements;
• low cost - half as many pipes are used;
• compactness - tees are connected directly near the draw-off points.

But there are also disadvantages - when all users are turned on at the same time, the pressure in the system drops dramatically, and connecting a new point is quite problematic (you will have to embed another tee).

The collector water supply system is distinguished by the parallel connection of users, when a special splitter - a collector is connected to the pipes for discharging cold and hot water from the riser. And already each point of water intake is connected to this collector.

Advantages of the collector system:

• convenience - all connection points are collected in one place;
• reliability - one pipe goes to each user, which minimizes the risk of leaks;
• pressure stability - in the collector, the same pressure is supplied to each point, so even turning on all the taps at the same time will not lead to a loss of pressure.

The disadvantages include the high cost due to the increased consumption of materials and the need to allocate space for connecting collectors.

The right plan is the key to success

In order not to have to redo half of the water supply system due to the fact that several key elements were forgotten during installation, it is very important to correctly draw up the wiring diagram. It should include all draw-off points, passage elements and valves. The diagram shows the pipe diameters, the location of the water heater and the pump (if the water comes from a well or well).

By resolving all controversial issues at the planning stage, you can avoid annoying mistakes in the future. This will also allow you to pre-calculate the required length of pipes and the number of all fittings and tees.

At the same time, it works effectively even when connected to a centralized water supply. For example, if the water is turned off, there will still be 200 liters of water left in the storage tank, which is enough for domestic needs. And even with a power outage, a tank located 4 m above the water consumers will provide a pressure of 0.4 atm., Which is quite enough for water from the mixers to flow by gravity.

The scheme is quite simple:

1. A storage tank is connected to the main water pipe. If water comes from central water supply pipes with variable pressure, an additional pump will have to be installed at the inlet, which will provide a constant water pressure.
2. To protect the pump from burnout in the absence of water, a dry-running sensor is installed that turns off the power.
3. If water comes from a well, only a pumping station is installed after the tank - to ensure a constant pressure at the points of water intake. It is advisable to choose stations with burnout protection already installed. Otherwise, you must also install a dry running sensor - to turn off the station when the tank runs out of water.
4. It is important to provide overflow protection in the storage tank - for example, a float switch.
5. The piping from the tank is often tee, as this option is chosen for houses with a maximum of 5 users (shower, washbasin, toilet, washing machine and sink in the kitchen).

Pipe selection - their size material

For plumbing pipes are used from:

• copper is an ideal choice, but quite expensive;
• reinforced polypropylene (PP) - a special welding machine is required for installation (it can even be rented by the day);
• steel - corrosion and the need for threading makes such pipes unpopular;
• metal-plastic - has an excellent value for money, but can only withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees (this must be taken into account when choosing a water heater and what outlet temperature it gives).

Copper pipes will "survive" even the foundation of the house, but if the budget is limited, you can stop at PP or metal-plastic. At the same time, only reinforced polypropylene is used for hot water - the central reinforcing layer is visible on the cut.

This is much more reliable than compression fittings, which will have to be tightened annually, and still they will soon begin to leak.

For laying street water pipes, both PP pipes and HDPE pipes can be used. The former are used if underground connection of pipe parts is necessary, while the latter are laid in a continuous piece.

On the pipe itself, there is always a marking (size, GOST) - pipes without inscriptions indicate their low quality.

• incoming water pipe - 32 mm;
• riser pipe - 25 mm;
• branch pipes from the riser - 20 mm;
• outlet pipes to devices - 16 mm.

But at the same time, the diameter of the device connection must be taken into account. So, often boilers have an inch pipe outlet (25 mm), this must be taken into account even at the stage of buying a boiler and accessories. In addition, instantaneous water heaters are sensitive to system pressure, so it is advisable to connect 20 mm pipes to them.

Pump or pumping station?

If there is no central water supply and water has to be taken from a well or a well, each owner is faced with the question of choosing a pump. The pumping station can lift water to a height of no more than 9 m (the horizontal length of the pipes does not matter). Therefore, it is suitable for most wells or shallow wells. Its advantages are the presence of a hydraulic accumulator and a protective mechanism against burnout.

If the depth of the aquifer is below 9 meters, there is only one way out - a submersible pump. It provides a stable and strong water pressure, but you will have to install automatics that protect against burnout and a storage tank yourself. The latter is optional, but increases the life of the pump.

Plumbing installation

The installation of the plumbing itself is not particularly difficult:

1. The layout of the laying of the future water supply is done - on the walls, in the screed or under the ceiling.
2. Holes are made in the walls or pipes are laid in the floor screed. In the latter case, the pipes should be no further than 15 cm from the wall and no closer than 20 cm from future furniture.



3. It is much easier to carry out external wiring, where pipes are attached to the wall with special clips. It is important to remember that polypropylene pipes cannot be fixed rigidly - they must be provided with the possibility of expansion during temperature fluctuations.



4. Clips are placed at a distance of 1-2 m from each other. If you need to fix a pipe of large diameter or weight, clamps are used - for reliability.
5. For external wiring, pipes through walls and ceilings must pass in sleeves - covers made of non-combustible material filled with a sealant (for example, mineral wool). This is done to reduce noise during the passage of water. The sleeve can be cut to the level of the walls and ceiling, but it must protrude 3 cm above the finished floor.



6. Special strips (sockets) for mixers are attached to the wall. Without a lot of building experience, it will not work to “drown” them into the wall so that the outlet pipes are flush with the wall. Therefore, they can be left protruding - the decorative caps of the mixer will cover them.





7. The assembly of the pipeline can take place both "on the air" and on the table, when the assembled parts simply fit into the holes made. As practice shows, the latter is possible only with a very well-designed wiring diagram. Otherwise, you still have to adjust the details "in place".
8. Cutting pipes should be carried out with a special pipe cutter - you cannot saw them, the connection will be unreliable. At the same time, polypropylene and metal-plastic pipes are cut with different tools.







9. If you need to lay a curved "route", metal-plastic pipes can only be bent with a radius that is not less than 5 outer diameters of the pipe. Otherwise, the service life of the pipe cannot be predicted. Fittings are used for corner joints.

The principle of working with polypropylene pipes, their soldering and installation, are shown in detail in the video:

Owners of private houses have to solve the problem of water supply for their households on their own. The arrangement of an autonomous source in the form of a well or a well is associated with labor, time and finance costs. Well, if a central water supply line runs nearby, it is most convenient to stretch the pipeline network from it.

In this case, the comfort of living even in an old house is significantly increased, since the normal functioning of the sewage system, heating and other engineering communications will be ensured. You can also carry out water to a private house with your own hands, you just need to collect the necessary documents.

You can connect to the central water supply in winter

Benefits of central plumbing

Connecting to the central water supply in comparison with the arrangement of an autonomous water supply system has several advantages. There is no need to purchase expensive pumping equipment, there is no need to drill, pump and maintain the well. In addition, the centralized supply of water is a certified type of activity, so the consumer receives:

• drinking water that meets sanitary and hygienic standards;
• normalized pressure in the pipeline network;
• supply of water almost without interruption.

You can carry out water supply and connect it to the central line yourself, or you can invite specialists. They will help lay the system underground and carry out its supply to the house. Of course, in this case, they will have to pay for their work.

Without documents, it will not be possible to conduct water to a private house

To connect a private house to a centralized water supply, you will have to contact several authorities and obtain permits.

Without them, it will not be possible to use water, and for unauthorized connection there are huge fines and dismantling of equipment at the expense of the owner.

It will be necessary to carry out various studies, draw up technical documentation and approve it in the relevant structures. All stages of paperwork should be completed sequentially, otherwise you will have to start all over again.

First, contact the geodetic service

First, you should contact your local geodetic service. Its employees will perform a topographic survey of the area and draw up a situational plan of the site. All objects located on the ground are applied to it with the indication of the distance between them and the nearest engineering communications.

This is what geodetic survey and technical conditions look like

Surveyors will complete their work within ten days and issue an invoice for the services rendered. If there is a situational plan, more than a year has passed since the preparation of which, you will have to order a new explication, this is another name for this document. When contacting the geodetic service, you will have to present title documents for the use of the land.

We receive technical conditions for connecting to the water supply

To obtain technical specifications for connecting water, the owner of a private house can apply to the authority that issued the permit for the construction of the facility. They will determine which company will provide centralized water supply services to a new user. There you should submit documents, which will have to collect an impressive list. You will need the following:

• confirmation of ownership or use of the house and land;
• owner's identity card;
• seven copies of the explication;
• two copies of the building permit;
• the balance of water consumption prepared by the designers;
• two copies of the application.

The technical conditions, which are provided to the user 14 days after the submission of the package of documents without charging a fee, indicate the dates of connection to the central water supply line and the permissible load on the central water supply of the user in question. The authority that provided the technical conditions undertakes to connect the private house to the central water supply.

Now you can order a water supply project

The specifications have finally been received and the water supply project can now be ordered. Without it, it is impossible to sign an agreement with a company providing centralized water supply services. Based on the developed specifications, the water supply project can be carried out by any competent organization, but in any case, it must be approved by the local water supply and sewerage company.

The connection must be made in accordance with the project

The document will also need to be coordinated with suppliers of electricity, gas, and even with a telephone exchange due to the fact that their engineering communications are also connected to the house, and the water supply network should not interfere with their functioning. The project is finally approved by the architectural committee.

Lay the pipe yourself or contact a licensed organization?

When connecting a private house to a centralized water supply, it must be understood that all earthworks outside the site, according to the rules, must be carried out by an organization that has a license for this. Unfortunately, the latter use their position and charge high prices for their services. The penalty for violation is noticeably less, so many do this work themselves.

An excavator is clearly more efficient than a shovel

The cost of arranging a water supply system consists of payment for the services of installers, the purchase of materials and various fees. The cheapest way to get water is to do all the work yourself, and install the water supply network from pipes made of polyethylene or polypropylene.

We contact the water utility to conclude an agreement

Now you should contact the water utility to conclude an agreement on connecting water supply. Its essence lies in the fact that the organization performs all the necessary actions to prepare and connect the infrastructure of a private house to the central water supply, and the user pays for these services.

Contracts for works and water supply

The price is set by the local branch of the water utility, and it consists of a fee for conducting the pipeline system from the house to the point of insertion into the main network and the connected load of the system. The cost of materials and the labor of the assembly team are included in this price.

Do-it-yourself plumbing

It is realistic to save a lot on arranging a water supply system if you do all the work on laying it yourself. First of all, it is necessary to draw up a diagram that indicates the location of pipes and water intake points. When developing it, one should not strive to the heights of engineering, the most important thing is that it is easy to navigate in the scheme, and that it allows you to correct errors made during installation, if any.

The diagram indicates the features of the terrain, the presence of rocky or sandy soil in the area, provides for the area necessary for the implementation of the pipeline interchanges. It should be borne in mind that all installation work must be carried out on a pre-leveled surface, otherwise, unpleasant surprises cannot be avoided.

We equip a well at the connection point

At the point of connection to the main water main, it is necessary to equip a well. It is needed in the case when it is necessary to quickly shut off the water supply for repair work, so shutoff valves are installed in it. The well can be laid out of red brick or equipped with concrete rings.

Well options for connecting water supply

From above the well is covered with a lid. The latter can be made of plastic, but it must be able to withstand the traffic that may pass over its surface. Of course, these worries can be avoided if the well already exists at the connection point.

Connection is carried out by inserting into the central line using welding equipment. It is also possible to connect to the central pipe using a special clamp without the use of welding. Thus, it is possible to connect to both a steel and a plastic pipe, and without turning off the water supply in the central line.

Ways to connect to the central pipe

In this case, the clamp is first securely mounted on the supply pipe, and then it is drilled through the hole in the clamp. An electric drill will not work, as it will flood with water! Then a valve is screwed onto the thread of the clamp in the open state, after which the valve closes. When using a ball valve, drilling can be done after it is installed. Of course, a forced shower is indispensable in this case, so you need to choose the right weather and clothes.

Digging a trench to the desired depth

The greatest laboriousness when connecting a private house to the central water supply is the process of digging a trench. Depending on the distance from the main highway, you can use manual labor or special equipment in the form of an excavator or other earth-moving machine. Of course, you need to understand well at what depth to bring the pipe.

Map of normative freezing depths

The trench should be dug to such a depth that it is below the freezing point of the soil in the area of ​​work. Otherwise, the water frozen in the pipes will break them, and in the spring everything will have to be started anew. On the contrary, in regions with a mild climate, it is possible to build a highway without digging a trench.

If there are no significant inclusions of stones and clay in the composition of the soil, work is facilitated. Several holes can be dug along the line, and the earth bridges between them can be destroyed using a high-pressure water jet supplied from a hose. This technique significantly reduces the cost and facilitates excavation.

It is more convenient to dig a trench to the house with shovels

Sometimes, due to too heavy soil, it is difficult to dig a trench of the required depth. Modern insulation materials can help here, with the help of which the thermal insulation of the pipeline system is performed. In any case, going deep into the ground, at least a hundred centimeters, is still necessary.

At the bottom of the dug trench, a pillow is arranged before laying the pipes. It is a mound of sand and gravel, which creates a shock-absorbing pad. In addition, it allows you to divert soil water from the pipeline, thereby preventing its icing. Now you need to decide how best to lay the pipe underground and bring it under the foundation.

We pass the foundation and make an entrance to the house

The introduction of the pipeline into the house is often carried out under the foundation. In this case, the question of the depth of laying the pipe and the need for its insulation is solved in the same way as for the entire water supply line laid outside the house.

Options for entering the pipe into the house

The entry of the pipeline into the house can also be carried out through the foundation, which will require making a hole. Particular attention should be paid to this element of the pipeline network if there is a section that is not deep in the ground and, as a result, is at high risk of freezing. Be sure to perform high-quality thermal insulation of this pipe section.

The diameter of the inlet should be made larger than the cross section of the water pipe by about fifteen centimeters. This is necessary in order to prevent the destruction of the pipeline network if, over time, the walls of the house begin to sag.

We choose the best pipe and lay the eyeliner to the house

Pipes are the most significant element of the plumbing. There are several options and you need to decide which pipes are best suited for installing plumbing and bringing it to the house. In principle, galvanized steel pipes are suitable. Products made of this material tolerate mechanical overloads well, but are susceptible to corrosion processes.

Plumbing pipe and related insulation

Copper pipes can function for decades, but they are very expensive and difficult to install, so they are used quite rarely. The most widespread are inexpensive pipes made of polymeric materials, easy to install and not afraid of exposure to aggressive chemical environments.

Having completed the pipeline network to the house, you do not need to immediately fill up the trench. First, you should make a test run and carefully examine all butt joints. Faults found must be corrected.

Some features of water use

The pressure in the line is also not always maintained at the desired level. This is where a booster pump can help. Everyone knows that water supply cuts often occur for various reasons. In this case, the installation of a storage tank helps out.

Useful equipment for owners of water from the central water supply

Last tip - think about leak protection.

According to the law of philosophy, quantity develops into quality, that is, a large number of pipes, connections, taps, appliances and, in particular, flexible hoses in a modern home leads to a noticeable increase in the possibility of water leakage.

In the event that this happens in your absence, the cost not only for repairs, but for the actual water will not seem small to anyone! The cardinal solution is to simply turn off the central tap before leaving the house. Of course, there are other flexible and technological solutions to this issue.

In order for the water supply system to be able to provide maximum comfort to residents, it is necessary to take into account many nuances, correctly calculate all operating parameters and engineering units. It is highly desirable to start development at the stage of an architectural project.

Bringing ideas to life and equipping the water supply of a private house with your own hands should, if not a professional, then a person who has delved into all the subtleties.

We will help you understand the principles of operation of an autonomous system, designate the device of various sources of water intake and provide recommendations on the choice of equipment. Step-by-step instructions for arranging water supply are supplemented with visual images and video clips.

The water supply system is one of the most important elements in home improvement. The essence of its work lies in the automated supply of the required volume of water, for which the user now only needs to start the equipment, and then simply control it periodically.

An autonomous network independent of the central water supply must be correctly designed and calculated in order for the house to be fully supplied with water according to the needs of the owners. It is necessary to organize the system so that water flows freely to all water intake points.

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Arrangement of capturing chambers when using a spring

The device of a protective structure above the spring differs little from the design of the well. In them, water can also flow through the bottom or walls, which are equipped with filters. In rocks, filtration is not required.

If suspended particles are present in the water, then the chamber is divided in half by a partition, one compartment is used for settling and cleaning from sediment, the other for water intake.

To exit excess water at the highest debit of the source, an overflow pipe is provided in the chamber wall. At its end, a valve is installed that allows water to pass through, but prevents debris and rodents from entering the spring.

Equipment for automatic water supply

The choice of a method for arranging and installing a water supply system for a country house begins with an assessment of the type of water intake structure, its depth and other characteristics.

The automated system includes:

• pump or finished pumping station;
• filtration system for water purification;
• storage and control capacity;
• external and internal pipeline;
• devices for automatic control.

When installing tanks and pumps, the requirements of the equipment manufacturers must be strictly observed.

Regulating and storage tanks for water

Water storage tanks are distinguished according to the principle of operation:

• Non-pressure leaky tank. It is made mainly from polymeric materials. Helps create pressure by placing it at the highest point of the system. The higher the storage tank is installed, the greater the water pressure will be in the system. Raising the container for each meter increases the pressure by 0.1 atmosphere.
• hydropneumatic tank. Inside it is divided into two compartments by a membrane. It creates pressure thanks to compressed air in one compartment, which through a rubber membrane exerts pressure on water in an adjacent compartment.

A non-pressure tank is installed in a lighted ventilated room, the temperature of which does not drop to negative values. Under the tank, pallets are installed to protect against small leaks. The tank is provided with a removable lid and equipped with shutoff valves.

One of the characteristics of the operation of pumping equipment is the frequency of switching on the system per unit of time. This indicator is fundamental in choosing a hydraulic accumulator. For submersible pumps, the allowable interval between switching on is longer than for surface pumps. They are supposed to turn on less often, which means that the hydraulic tank should be larger.

To work in tandem with surface pumps, membrane tanks with a capacity of 12 to 24 liters are most often bought. If there are power outages in the settlement, it is recommended to install a hydraulic accumulator of 250 liters or more so that you can pump in and store a reserve supply of water for some time.

Hydraulic accumulators are placed in chambers underground, in basements, utility rooms, in which the temperature does not drop below zero.

In a system with a non-pressure storage tank, the water supply process is automated using a float valve and an on and off sensor

Purification of tap water from impurities

When choosing water-lifting equipment, consider:

• Source flow rate. It should exceed the water consumption in the house.
• Type of intake structure and depth of the aquifer. For pumping out from sources up to 8 m deep, surface centrifugal pumps are used. They are placed in the basement or separate rooms of private houses, in underground chambers or mine wells. Pumping water from great depths is carried out by means of powerful submersible pumps.
• Required pressure in the system. The head of the pumping unit is determined by summing up the values ​​​​(in meters): the height of the rise from the (dynamic) water level in the well to the highest located plumbing fixture, the pressure loss when reaching the highest point, the required pressure at this point.
• Estimated water consumption. Calculated based on the number of plumbing points and the number of residents. This indicator influences the choice of equipment performance.

Even an inexperienced master can equip the water supply system of a private house with his own hands. Manufacturers of modern plumbing fittings have done everything possible to simplify the technology of joining water supply elements. And we will tell you about the procedure for installing home plumbing - from marking the lines to letting water into the taps.

How is domestic plumbing

In most cases, the water supply of a private house is based on an autonomous source of drinking quality. It could be a well or a well. Therefore, the internal water conduit in the house starts from the pumping station, or rather, from the first shut-off valve that cuts off the pressure unit from the wiring.

Behind this valve are a branch of cold water and a hot water supply line (DHW). And in most cases, the DHW line is formed on the basis of a branch from a cold pipeline that enters a heating device that generates hot water.

Sources of consumption - taps, faucets, dishwashers and washing machines, drain tanks, etc. - are connected to the cold and hot branches using taps cut into the main hot or cold pipe or manifold. In the latter case, the consumer is forced to buy more pipe fittings. However, using a water collector will save you from pressure surges in the network. To put it simply: You won't get scalded in the shower after someone uses the cistern.

The joints of the branches and the center line are beaten with the help of tees. Turns (angular mates) are made using corners. In order to facilitate the repair process, a shut-off valve is cut into the outlet to the source of consumption. It allows you not to turn off the water in the whole house in case of repair of one tap.

As you can see, a typical plumbing in a private house is very simple. Any novice locksmith can assemble such a network. And you need to start designing a water supply network by calculating the footage of pipes and the number of connecting and shut-off fittings.

How to calculate the footage of pipes and the number of fittings

If the water supply is based on the main pipe, then the distribution of water in a private house begins with the laying of a central line encircling the building around the perimeter. The footage of the pipes in this case is equal to twice the sum of all the houses (two perimeters).

With a collector, the situation is more complicated. In this case, a separate line will go to each crane. Therefore, the footage in this case can only be determined according to the full-scale scheme, by drawing lines on the walls along which the wiring will be laid. After completing the drawing, measure the length of the lines and write down the footage of the cold and hot branches.

If you are building a water supply system with your own hands, the full-scale wiring diagram does not fit in any case. Take blue and red crayons in your hands and draw a path for laying cold and hot pipes on the walls, indicating the positions of tees, angles and shut-off valves with arbitrary icons. This drawing will help you not to make a mistake with the length of the pipes and the number of valves, and during installation it can be used as a contour for laying the fixing elements that hold the pipes on the wall.

The number of corner fittings is determined by turns (corner mates). The number of valves is calculated according to the consumption sources (one per source plus one more if we are talking about a mixer). Tees are considered only when arranging a water supply system based on a central line, determining their number by the number of valves.

After that calculation and subsequent purchase of fittings and fittings, you can do it in any private house in just a day. And how this is done, we will tell further, discussing separately both the cold and hot branch of the water supply.

How to wire a cold water line

Installation of a cold water supply in a private house begins with the installation of a collector. This node is placed in the kitchen area if it is located near the toilet and bathroom. Otherwise, the collector is placed closer to the sanitary zone. Moreover, this work is easy to do with your own hands - for this you need to do the following:

1. 1. We buy a collector, the number of taps of which is equal to the number of consumption sources.
2. 2. We fix it on the wall using screw clamps with a self-tapping leg or brackets on the distributor housing.
3. 3. We lay a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of ¾ inch from the central valve of the water supply to the inlet pipe of the manifold, using collet fittings for mating.
4. 4. Using the same fittings, we equip the outlets with a diameter of ½ inch from the collector to the points of consumption, laying the pipes in the baseboard area. Moreover, a valve should be installed between the pipe and the collector, locking each outlet.
5. 5. Having reached the outlet under the sink (cistern, tray or bathtub), we draw up a vertical section, raising the pipe 50 cm above the floor.
6. 6. We connect the pipe and the tap (faucet or tank) with a bellows or reinforced hose.

In the final, we mount the faucet on the sink, connect the drain to the sewer. And we repeat this operation with all points of consumption. On this, the installation of the cold branch can be considered completed.

How to equip a hot water supply line

The DHW branch is done in almost the same way as the cold water supply. Only instead of the central valve, the starting point for the hot line is the cold branch manifold.

From this distributor we draw a line ½ inch in diameter to the heater. Moreover, at the connection point, you need to embed a check valve so that water from the boiler or column heat exchanger does not drain back. It is described in a separate article.

The next step is to mount the collector for hot water. It is placed either under the boiler, or in the bathroom or in the kitchen. Next, a pipe with a diameter of ½ inch is pulled to the distributor mounted on the wall, connecting the manifold and the "hot" fitting of the boiler / boiler.

In the final, separate hot water supply lines are connected to each mixer, connecting the taps and the distributor. Moreover, to facilitate the connection of the pipeline to the tap, you can use a bellows hose. The reinforced version is not recommended in this case - it is designed for cold water.

If there are no more than 2-3 sources of hot water consumption in the house, then the collector can be replaced with a pair of tees, laying the central line to the shower or faucet in the bathroom, and equipping the outlet to the kitchen. But in this case, get ready for pressure surges in the case of simultaneous operation of faucets in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

How to save money on plumbing

Installing a water supply system in a private house will be much cheaper if you follow a few tips. First, stop using elbow fittings. The metal-plastic pipe can be bent along a 25-centimeter radius, fitting into any turn.

Secondly, special manifolds with shut-off units at each outlet will help save on valves mounted under each entrance to a tap or mixer. Third, consider the location of the flow splitter. Ideally, it should stand between the kitchen and the bathroom. But if there are more taps in the bathroom, then it is better to move the collector there. In this case, you will spend only on one kitchen outlet.

Fourthly, if the distributor and the consumer device are separated by 2-2.5 meters, then instead of pipe fittings, you can use a reinforcing or bellows hose of the appropriate length. Fifth, when choosing between metal-plastic and polypropylene, vote for the first option. Polypropylene pipes are mounted using a special welding machine or expensive electrical couplings. Therefore, professionals will have to be involved in such work. In addition, polypropylene does not bend like metal-plastic.

If you listen to these tips, you will be able to save up to 10-15 percent on the cost of consumables.