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Aphids on red beet fight. Diseases and pests of beets: signs of the most harmful and common, measures to combat them

Interesting

There are many ways to deal with aphids on beets. The vegetable is easy to grow, it does not impose special requirements on conditions and gives a good, numerous harvest. But when aphids colonize on tops and leaves, the quality and quantity of root crops deteriorate significantly, so it is necessary to carry out timely processing of beets.

Until the second half of July, wingless aphids bring danger, then insects with wings appear, which can already fly to neighboring crops. Eggs are laid on nearby shrubs and trees. In spring, pests again move to vegetable beds.

Aphid control methods

It is possible to process beets for preventive and therapeutic purposes with various insecticides, which are sold in special stores or with compositions made according to folk recipes.

Popular insecticides include: Aktara, Iskra, Marshal, Commander. The active substances of the formulations are absorbed by the green part of the plants and continue to act for almost 3-4 weeks.

Aphids begin to actively spread in early April. A mass attack of pests can be observed at any time during the development of a vegetable crop. If the root crops have already formed, then it is better to use biological products or folk recipes. You can eat root crops after these funds, after 6 days.

Biological preparations do not begin to act so quickly, but they are safe. The active components disappear within two weeks. For prophylactic purposes, solutions are used once a month; for therapeutic purposes, they can be used every two weeks. Products based on biologically active components include: Iskra Bio, Jaguar, Envidor, Strela.

The effectiveness of drugs depends on the degree of spread of pests, weather conditions, compliance with the rules for preparing solutions. Aphids affect not only beets, but also legumes, herbs, potatoes and carrots. To destroy them, vegetable growers attract ladybugs to the site, which feed on these insects.

For preventive purposes, the planting material is treated, the crop rotation rules are followed, after harvesting, the site is dug deep and fertilizers are applied. Do not plant a vegetable for several years in a row in the same place.

Aphids live on the inner leaf plate. It feeds on the juice of the plant, as a result, the leaves curl, turn yellow, dry and fall off. Reproduction of the pest stops during heavy rains and cold weather. In warm summer conditions, aphids multiply at a high rate.

The fight against aphids folk remedies

Aphids are able to suck juices only from young leaves and stems. Their skin is easier for insects to pierce with a proboscis. When using chemicals, the risk of damage to the culture increases, so folk remedies are used.

Water

The greatest population of pests is usually noted where there are a lot of weeds in the garden. Weed vegetation interferes with the normal growth and development of vegetable crops, reduces its immunity, contributes to the development of diseases, which, in turn, causes the appearance of pests.

Soap solution from aphids

Soap-based folk remedies are the most effective measures to combat aphids. Dissolve 110 ml of liquid soap in a bucket of water. If the soap has a smell, then this will attract the attention of insects even more.

You can use laundry or tar soap. To do this, dissolve 100 g of crushed agent in a bucket of water. The soap solution can be used alone or mixed with other beneficial ingredients such as wood ash or onion skins.

Soap and soda mixture from aphids

Baking soda is a proven method of fighting aphids, but processing should be carried out in a timely manner when the aphids have just appeared on the beds. Vegetables and fruits cannot be treated with soda ash, as it contributes to the death of green mass.

In 10 liters of water, add 80 g of soda. In order for the solution to protect the plant from pests for a long time and not be washed off by rain, 50 g of laundry soap is added to the composition. Solid soap must first be crushed.

Spraying is carried out only in the evening, after sunset. On a cloudy day, you can carry out processing at any time. Direct sunlight can burn the green part of the plant. Do not abuse soda compounds, as they change the composition of the soil and lead to poor development of vegetable crops.

Infusion of ash to fight aphids

A well-known and affordable folk remedy for tillage from aphids in open ground is ash infusion. In addition to getting rid of the pest, ash can enrich the soil with microelements (calcium, boron, potassium, sulfur). Heavy soils in summer cottages become light, the level of acidity decreases.

Wood ash (300 g) is sieved, poured with water and brought to a boil. After the liquid boils, cook for another 20 minutes. The finished solution is left to infuse, after 3 hours it is filtered and diluted with water (the total volume is 10 l).

Tobacco infusion against aphids on plants

Another option on how to get rid of aphids on beets is a tobacco-based composition. When growing a vegetable, you can plant tobacco nearby, then it will scare away all pests with its smell.

You can use homemade. For infusion, you can take 55 g of tobacco dust or 95 g of shag. The selected component is poured with one liter of warm water for three days. Ready infusion should be filtered and diluted with water. Spray the vegetable three times with an interval of three days.

Infusion from the zest

There is another proven composition that can be used to treat beets from aphids. The citrus smell is unpleasant for pests and repels them, so solutions are prepared based on citrus fruit zest.

It is necessary to take 550 g of dried orange peel, pour a liter of water and leave to infuse for a day. Then the infusion is brought to a boil and boiled for another 12 minutes. The finished solution is filtered and diluted with water. To keep the solution longer on the green part of the plant, add 25 g of soap.

Spicy herbal infusions against aphids

Aphids cannot stand the smell and taste of spicy foods. Therefore, compositions are often prepared with the addition of garlic, horseradish, hot pepper. With your own hands, you can prepare compositions from any of the listed components. A master class on preparing the composition can be found on the pages of the site:

  • The crushed leaves and roots of horseradish are poured with warm water and left to infuse for one day.
  • Two pods of hot pepper are cut into rings, poured with a liter of boiling water and insisted for 4 hours.
  • For an infusion of garlic, you need to cut a few cloves of a spicy vegetable into small slices and pour a liter of boiling water. After the liquid has cooled, add 10 ml of liquid soap.

An infusion of celandine is considered no less useful. Stems, leaves, flowers and roots of the plant can come in handy. The collected parts of the plant are cut into small pieces and poured with water (3.5 kg of the plant should be taken per bucket of water). The composition is insisted for three hours, moving to a warm, dark place.

Infusion of tomato or potato tops

For infusion, tops, stepchildren and leaves of tomatoes or potatoes can be useful. It will take about 2 kg of greens, which are poured with boiling water and insisted for 4 hours. You can pour warm water and bring the liquid to a boil, then leave to cook for another 25 minutes. The resulting mixture is cooled and 25 ml of liquid soap are added.

Onion infusion against aphids

Onion infusion is considered a useful fertilizer and an excellent remedy for aphids on beet leaves. Folk recipes describe several options for preparing the infusion.

It is necessary to pour onion husks with hot water for two days, then strain. It is advisable to add soap to the finished onion solution so that the product is not washed off by rain. Before use, the composition is again diluted with water.

In the evening, you need to pour 250 g of onion peel with a bucket of warm water and leave it overnight. In the morning, the composition is filtered and beet beds are sprayed undiluted.

To prepare the next solution, you will need a lot of onion heads (about 25 pieces), which are finely chopped, poured with a liter of water and left for 5 hours. Before use, add a few grams of soap. The finished solution must be filtered and diluted with water.

Pine infusion

When black dots (aphids) appear on the inside of a leaf or beet stalk, it is recommended to use coniferous infusions. The smell of pine needles repels not only aphids, but also other pests.

For a week in a dark place, you need to infuse 2 kg of pine needles in 10 liters of water. Periodically, the composition must be stirred. After that, the solution is filtered, and diluted with water before use.

Sorrel against aphids

Pests from beets can be washed off with infusion of horse sorrel. It will take 350 g of sorrel to pour a bucket of hot water and leave to infuse for 4 hours. Then you can start spraying vegetable beds.

Flower infusions against aphids

Seedlings of some flowers can repel aphids and other pests. Next to the beets, it is useful to plant flowers such as chamomile, lavender, tansy, nasturtium, petunia, marigolds.

To prepare a chamomile solution, it is necessary to pour 120 g of any parts of the plant with boiled water in an amount of one liter. Leave to infuse for 11 hours. Then add 10 g of soap chips. Dilute with water before use.

Help to cope with aphids and dandelion roots. You will need to take 350 g of leaves and 180 g of the roots of a flowering plant, pour 10 liters of water and leave to infuse for 3.5 hours.

Essential oils against aphids

Red beets treated from aphids with solutions based on essential oils will be protected from pest attacks for a long time.

In 110 g of cream, 12 drops of essential oils are dissolved. You can choose lavender, thyme, tea tree and cedar. The resulting mixture is diluted with 500 ml of water. The resulting composition is recommended to spray beets in the morning and evening hours for three days.

All lovers of working on the ground in their summer cottages or gardens know that any vegetable or fruit grown with their own hands is always tastier than a store-bought one. What is the reason for this phenomenon is difficult to say. Maybe the plants are trying to thank a person for the care with which he treats each bush or tree. And only fruits can be a sign of gratitude, that's why they are so tasty and odorous. But in order to get a rich harvest, you need to diligently deal with pests in gardens and orchards. One of these lovers of eating the juice of tender seedlings and young shoots is. Detailed instructions on how to deal with aphids on beets will help preserve the crop and enjoy healthy root crops.

general characteristics

The insect belongs to the most common and dangerous pest of gardens and orchards. The aphid has a small size from 1 to 5 mm, a soft, oval ovoid body of green, orange, yellow or black color, thin legs, an elongated proboscis that sucks juice from plants.

The fertilized female lays eggs in secluded corners. Usually this is the root part of the trees. Under the bark in hard-to-reach places, eggs are safely wintered. As soon as the ambient temperature becomes comfortable, wingless females quickly begin to develop from eggs, which are able to produce offspring without fertilization. The damage caused by aphids is enormous. She reproduces very quickly. A wingless female can reproduce about fifty generations during the spring-summer season. Aphids are not very picky about food. The pest eats everything in its path: young shoots, seedlings, flowers, vegetables, fruit trees and shrubs, weeds. Young and adult individuals participate in the feast, which can be distinguished only by body size.

Interesting!

Aphids live in colonies. It becomes difficult for such a large number of insects to feed in one place, therefore, by the end of May, subject to warm weather, or by the end of June, flying females are born. They expand the geography of the species. Scattering over vast distances with the help of the wind, they mate with winged males and lay their eggs for wintering several tens of kilometers from their original habitat, so that in the spring a new life cycle of insects will be repeated.

Pest classification

There are different types of aphids, which differ from each other not only in size, but also in taste preferences. Gardeners distinguish pink, apple, cherry-cherry, cabbage, beet and other varieties of aphids. Such names speak only of the preferred, but not the only food for these pests. Beet aphids can be found on cabbage. White aphids attack both trees and shrubs, eat onion, vegetable and fruit crops.

Any kind of aphid is dangerous because, by sucking out the juices, it releases a sticky substance - honeydew, which prevents plant photosynthesis. Mushrooms may appear on padi, leading to their deformation. The pad attracts black garden ants, which love to eat a sweet substance, therefore they protect and settle aphids everywhere as one of their food sources. Hordes of ants and aphids that besiege young plants can lead to curvature, weakening, stunted growth, disease, and even complete death of shoots, and ultimately a lack of yield.

Beetroot is one of the most popular vegetables in our diet. We all love red borscht, vinaigrette, healthy salads made from this unpretentious vegetable. To get your favorite product of good quality from your garden, you need to carefully monitor the condition of developing plants.

When tender leaves appear, beet aphids can attack them. She loves to eat the juice of young shoots of sugar beets. If appropriate measures are not taken in time to combat this pest, then aphids on beet leaves can leave an amateur gardener without a crop.

The following alarming symptoms can serve as confirmation that black aphids have appeared on beets:

  • leaves begin to curl and dry;
  • a sticky liquid appears on the surface of the leaves;
  • on the inside of the leaf are detachments of insects and their eggs;
  • the development of the plant and fruit is slowed down.

If at least one symptom appears, it is necessary to immediately determine measures to combat this scourge.

Interesting!

Numerous colonies that inhabited the leaves lead to the fact that they turn yellow, deform and fall off. Small black bugs are visible on their reverse side.

Ways to solve the problem

The fight against aphids is a painstaking task. Pests multiply instantly, so aphids need to be removed quickly. There are several methods:

  • mechanical;

Which method is better to choose, the gardener decides in each case.

Mechanical

The most time-consuming, but also the safest for plants and humans. You need to remove aphids and laid eggs with your hands, removing them from each leaf into a small container. If the number of insects on the surface is large enough, then it is better to carefully tear off the leaf of the plant to free it from pests. You can wash off aphids with a strong stream of water from a hose or plant plants such as garlic, onions, Dalmatian chamomile, which will repel insects with their smell, next to the beetroot bed.

Folk remedies

Chemical insecticides for insect control

In order to get rid of the problem, various chemicals have been developed for aphids on beets, which effectively fight aphids and are divided into the following types:

  • contact - Karbafos and Fufanon penetrate the skin, causing the death of the insect;
  • intestinal - Akarin and Bankol are ingested with food, causing paralysis and death;
  • general action -, Biotlin, pass through the membranes of plant cells and stay in it for up to a month, turning the juice of the leaves into a deadly poison for aphids, they are not washed off by rain.

You should know that the last time the beets are sprayed 20 days before they are harvested. Insecticides should be applied in calm weather.

How to process beets from aphids, you need to decide for everyone, depending on the situation. We must not just forget that insecticides can get into vegetables and fruits, and then they will turn into a threat to human health. It is impossible to treat with chemical systemic substances during the ovary and active ripening of the fruit.

Beet is an unpretentious crop, with minimal care it can give a good harvest. But pests such as cause significant damage to the culture. The plant weakens, is exposed to diseases, growth stops. Young seedlings are completely destroyed by aphids. How to deal with aphids on beets, every gardener has to solve the problem.

Fighting methods

Offers a wide range of quality products. You can get rid of aphids on beets in 1 treatment. Active substances are absorbed by plant tissues, creating protection for 20 or more days.

The basic rule is to spray the beets for the last time 20 days before harvesting.

Beet aphid appears in early April, but mass reproduction can occur during any period of the growing season of the crop. With an already formed root crop, it is more expedient to use biological products. Means act due to the products of vital activity of microorganisms. Poison aphids gradually, causing asphyxia. It is allowed to eat vegetables 5 days after spraying.

Folk remedies for aphids on beets are used at any stage of crop growth. Prepared on the basis of substances with a pungent odor, soap, herbal tinctures. The frequency of application is unlimited. Efficiency depends on weather conditions, the degree of infection of the beets.

Agrotechnical control measures, they are also preventive, provide for crop rotation, deep digging of the soil after harvesting, before planting seeds, changing the location of the beds.

Signs of defeat

Aphids on beet leaves settle in the lower part of the plate, on the stems. Hiding from direct sunlight. Heavy rains, cold weather can stop the reproduction of pests. In other cases, the beet aphid breeds rapidly - up to 20 generations per season.

Wingless black aphids are present on beets until the end of July. Then winged individuals are born that are able to migrate to different cultures of the garden. After the mating season, eggs are laid on trees, shrubs, and weeds. In the spring they return to the beds with beets.

On a note!

Aphids form numerous colonies on beet leaves. All individuals feed on the juices of the plant. As a result, the sheets are twisted, deformed, turn yellow, fall off. On the reverse side, upon closer inspection, black small bugs no larger than 3 mm in size are visible.

Pest Control


How to process beets from aphids, there are no special difficulties. You can use any systemic insecticide. Poisonous preparations help remove aphids instantly, protect against insect invasion for another 30 days.

Processing beets with insecticides is carried out in dry calm weather. During operation, rubber gloves and a protective suit should be used so that the solution does not get on the skin.

When choosing an effective remedy for aphids, you should pay attention to such drugs:

  • Actellik;
  • Calypso;
  • Marshal;
  • Commander.

Biologics don't work that fast. You have to wait for the effect for several days, they are removed from the beets within 14 days. Treatment should be carried out several times during the fight with a frequency of 14 days, then for prevention every month - 1 time.

Means from aphids on beets based on biologically active components:

  • Arrow;
  • spark bio;
  • Inta-Vir;
  • Jaguar;
  • Envidor.

Spraying the green part of the beets is carried out using a garden spray bottle, a spray bottle, a watering can with a wide tip.

Folk remedies


You can remove aphids from a beet garden with safe folk remedies:

  • in 1 liter of water, dilute 200 g grated previously on a coarse grater, add 9 liters of water;
  • mix, 100 g of soap, mix thoroughly. Instead of ash, shag is used, dry ingredients are scattered between rows on a beet garden;
  • pour onion peel with water, boil for 20 minutes, leave for a day, strain, add laundry soap.

The fight against aphids with folk remedies is carried out at any stage of the beet growing season. Before eating a vegetable, it is enough to wash it under running water, peel it.

Table beet is an extremely resistant crop, but it can suffer significantly from the invasion of aphids. Take care of the cleanliness of the land should be in advance.

Today we will try to understand the very important issue of beet pests and methods of dealing with them. It should be noted that insects harm table beet during all periods of its growth. So, what are the main beet pests? Beet fleas and beet weevils can be safely attributed to the most harmful insects for beet crops. During all three summer months, beet tops are damaged by scoop caterpillars, beet shieldworm, beet fly larvae and beet miner moth. And beet weevil larvae and root aphids harm the roots of table beets. Let us dwell in more detail on some insects that adversely affect the seedlings of table beets.

beet weevil

Beet weevil - Bothynoderes punctiventris

This beet pest lives everywhere. The beet weevil is a beetle that has a gray-brown color. Its length is 12-16 mm. During the summer, one generation of weevils appears. The beet weevil bites beet sprouts, and with a large invasion of beetles, beet seedlings may die. These beetles are dangerous to beet seedlings until 2-3 pairs of true leaves appear. The females then lay their eggs in the soil. One female beet weevil can lay 60 to 100 eggs. The larvae appear within 7-10 days. Beet weevil larvae feed on beet fruits. In the affected plants, the tops wither, and the fruits lose their marketable qualities. This leads to a significant reduction in yield. The period of development from the stage of the larva to the adult lasts 60-70 days.

Fighting methods:

  • timely sowing of table beets;
  • plant nutrition is required;
  • high-quality processing of row spacing;
  • use only treated seeds for sowing.

beet aphid

beet aphid Aphis fabae

The second name is bean, or euonymus, aphid. This type of insect is polyphagous. Aphids infect beets, legumes, greens (particularly spinach), rarely carrots and even potatoes. This beet pest lives in most areas of the northern hemisphere with a temperate and warm climate.

beet aphid- This is an insect 1.7-2.7 mm long, with a body color from black to dark green. In the spring, from the eggs laid by the female in the fall, larvae appear, which, in turn, quickly grow and begin to produce their offspring. Beet aphids reproduce at lightning speed. During the summer, up to 15 generations of aphids appear. This beet pest lives on the underside of the beet tops and on the testicles. The aphid damaged in the process of vital activity twists, the root crop lags behind in development and, as a result, the yield decreases.

Fighting methods:

  • timely disposal of weeds;
  • breeding useful entomofauna
  • use of organophosphate insecticides.

It feeds on beet aphids. Therefore, a large number of this beneficial insect will have a beneficial effect on protecting your garden.


beet fleas



Usually, two types of fleas can damage beets:

  • Common beet flea - Chaetocnema concinna
  • Southern beet flea Chaetocnema breviuscula

These types of fleas are very similar to each other. On the site, fleas appear in early spring. Since spring, the bugs live on weeds for the time being, and only later they move to beet sprouts.

beet fleas- These are tiny (1.5-2.3 mm long) jumping bugs of a dark green color. This beet pest first spoils the tops, gnaws out the soft part of the leaf and leaves the lower skin intact, then small holes appear in this place. Affected seedlings will die with a high degree of probability. Female beet flea beetles lay their eggs directly on the ground near plants. The eggs are light yellow in color and oval in shape. After two to three weeks, larvae 1.5-2.2 mm long emerge from the eggs. They are white in color and have a yellow head. The new generation of fleas first live and feed on seedlings and adult plants, and go to winter under the remains of plants in the top layer of soil.

Fighting methods:

  • use only pickled beetroot seeds;
  • carefully get rid of weeds;
  • apply a set of agricultural practices to obtain high-quality seedlings.

beet fly


beet fly - Pegomyia hyoscyami

It is one of the most common beet pests. If you notice that the tops of the beets are drying out, you need to carefully inspect the inside of the leaves for transparent, caterpillar-like larvae. This beet pest is a member of the real fly family.

The length of the beet fly is 6 - 8 mm. The body of the beet fly has a gray color. The beet fly is widely found wherever beets are grown. The insect severely injures all types of beets, especially in areas with high humidity.

During the summer, 2-4 generations appear. The female beet fly lays its eggs mainly on the underside of the leaves. On average, there are 40 to 100 eggs in a clutch.

Beet fly egg-laying photo


Fighting methods:

  • careful disposal of weeds;
  • during weeding, it is necessary to remove infected leaves;
  • in autumn, deep digging of the earth.

Beet shield-bearer


Beet shield-bearer Cassida nebulosa

The second name is beet bug. This beet pest is a beetle from the leaf beetle family. This type of insect is rightfully considered one of the main pests of beets. Adults are found between April and May. The beet bug is distributed throughout Europe and Asia, except for high-mountainous and desert regions, wherever beets are grown.

beet bug- This is a beetle, reaching a length of 6 - 7 mm. Body color options: rusty-brown or greenish with black irregularly speckled. The female beet shieldworm generally lays about 200 eggs, which she covers with secretions that quickly harden. Within a week, yellow-green larvae appear from the eggs, then they become pupae and beetles appear from the pupae for 8-12 days. On average, two generations of beet shieldworm appear during the summer. Both beetles and larvae harm beets. Beetles eat sprouts and young plants, and the larvae feed only on the lower surface of the leaves, and the upper skin of the leaf is left untouched.

Fighting methods:

  • timely disposal of weeds in the beet garden.

Beet root aphid


Beet root aphid - Pemphigus fuscicornis

Beet root aphid- an insect that belongs to the suborder of aphids and is dangerous for beet crops. The size of this variety of beet pests is only 2.3-2.5 mm. The root aphid lives everywhere, wherever beets are grown. During the period April - September, the beet root aphid produces from 10 to 12 generations.

Fighting methods:

  • timely detection of foci of beet root aphid;
  • organize new beds away from the affected;
  • destruction of weeds, especially haze;
  • compliance with crop rotation rules;
  • treatment of lesions and edges of beet beds with insecticides.

Beet Miner Moth


Beet miner moth - Scrobipalpa ocellatella

Smooth dead eater- an insect especially dangerous for beet seedlings. This beetle is 9-12 mm long, black in color with red hairs. The smooth dead-eater gets out of the wintering grounds and feeds primarily on wild plants, and only then on cultivated ones. It affects beets, potatoes and all varieties of cabbage. During the period of active development, the female smooth dead beetle lays eggs in the upper layer of soil. Each adult female smooth dead beetle is able to lay an average of about 100 eggs. The eggs of the smooth dead beetle are white in color and oval in shape. Usually beetle larvae appear in 7-10 days. The larva of the smooth dead beetle is black in color and about 16 mm long. The appearance of the larvae becomes noticeable not so much because of their appearance, but because of the holes that the larvae make in the beet leaves. The larvae are harmful for 1.5-2 weeks, then they descend into the ground and pupate, and in the second half of summer, beetles of the second generation appear.

Fighting methods:

  • loosening row spacing;
  • getting rid of weeds.

Today, experts count hundreds of insects that are not averse to eating tasty, young and juicy beet pulp and its tender leaves. If nothing is done, then you can lose your entire crop pretty quickly. Therefore, the first thing you need to be careful and immediately respond to external changes in the plant. Let's look at the most dangerous beet pests.

A small insect, brown in color and with white paws. It quickly moves from one bed to another, damaging the entire crop. Fleas tolerate the cold well and overwinter in a pile of leaves, weeds, or tall grass. Immediately after the onset of heat, the flea attacks young seedlings and eats the root system of the plant that has not yet grown strong.


How to deal with beet flea? The best solution is to use insecticides, which can be purchased at any specialized store. Spraying is best to start with the appearance of the first shoots. These drugs are unique and act instantly on the insect shell itself, breaking through it and decomposing it from the inside.

A fairly common pest in our area. It is a black beetle with an oblong nose. He immediately attacks young beet seedlings, destroying them completely. It begins to appear in early spring, so at first it feeds on weeds such as quinoa. After the emergence of beet shoots, the weevil switches to it.


How to get rid of weevil? Since the insect loves the quinoa very much, in order to reduce the population of this insect, it is necessary to completely destroy this weed from your summer cottage. Some practice another effective way - digging small grooves with sheer walls. Once there, the weevil can no longer get out, so it dies.

It is very common in vegetable gardens and attacks almost all crops. It is not difficult to notice aphids on a plant - these are small insects of white, green or black color. But most of all, aphids are betrayed by their abundance. If this is a beet leaf, then a good flock of insects will settle on it. Their danger lies in the fact that they suck all the juices from the plant, leading to yellowing, drying and falling of the beet leaves.

How to deal with aphids? It is necessary to sprinkle the bushes with ashes or a mixture of tobacco dust. Washing with water also helps. With their strong reproduction, only spraying with special preparations can help.

How to deal with beet pests?

Of course, when pests have already appeared at their summer cottage, it will be quite difficult to remove them. It is much better to take the following preventive actions to prevent beet disease:

  • Sow only disease and pest resistant varieties.
  • Feed plants with organic and mineral fertilizers.
  • Use proper agricultural practices.
  • Harvest early.
  • Monitor the amount and regularity of watering.

It is also important to always remove weeds, because it is in them that pests most often live and multiply. So, beet pests and fight them requires urgent and correct action. We hope that our tips will help you grow a rich harvest of juicy and sweet beets.