Flowers wisteria (Greek Glicinia - "sweet"), or wisteria (lat. Wisteria), belong to the genus of tree-like climbing plants of the legume family, growing in subtropical regions and attracting attention with their fragrant, hanging purple inflorescences. The Latin name "Wisteria" was given to the wisteria flower in honor of Caspar Wistar, professor of anatomy at the University of Pennsylvania. 9 species of the wisteria genus are known, but only Chinese wisteria and Japanese wisteria, or profusely flowering, are grown as horticultural crops.

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Planting and caring for wisteria (in brief)

• Landing: sowing seeds in the ground - in early spring, for seedlings - in December, planting seedlings in the ground - in May.
• Bloom: from the end of March to the end of summer.
• Lighting: bright sun in the first half of the day, then diffused light or partial shade.
• The soil: nutritious, well-drained, slightly alkaline.
• Watering: from spring to late summer - moderate: the soil in the near-trunk circle should be slightly damp all the time, and from mid-September, watering is gradually reduced.
• Top dressing: during the growing season once a week alternately with mineral and organic solutions.
• Pruning: in summer, in order to maintain the shape of the bush.
• Reproduction: sometimes by seeds, but more often by layering.
• Pests: clover mites, aphids.
• Diseases: chlorosis.

Read more about growing wisteria below.

Wisteria tree - description

The wisteria plant in nature is a woody deciduous vine with drooping branches, reaching 15-18 meters in height. The leaves of wisteria are imparipinnate, pubescent when young, up to 30 cm long, with the number of leaves from 7 to 13. Fragrant purple, lilac or white flowers are collected in drooping brushes up to 30 cm long. Wisteria blooms in spring, at the end of March and can bloom throughout the summer.

The wisteria tree is very much in demand in landscape design, it is grown in various forms - both as a liana wrapping around the walls of a gazebo or a fence frame, and as a standard tree. Wisteria is also grown at home in a container way in the form of a tree, but still, homemade wisteria is not as common as garden wisteria, so let's talk about growing wisteria in the garden.

Growing wisteria from seeds

How to grow wisteria from seeds

Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Wisteria seeds are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), soddy soil and sand (one part each), sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, having covered the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist all the time. Wisteria sprouts from seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half, it will be possible to transfer seedlings to the light by organizing protection from direct sunlight.

When the seedlings form two leaves, they are dived into separate containers along with a clod of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Wisteria seedlings

Seedlings dived into individual containers must be accustomed to the environment in which they will live. To do this, they need to be taken out for a couple of hours a day to an unheated part of the house or kept under an ajar window, provided that there is no draft in the room.

You can sow wisteria seeds directly into the open ground in early spring, then the seedlings grow adapted to the environment and subsequently delight with their endurance.

Planting wisteria

When to plant wisteria

Planting wisteria is done in the spring, when the last frosts have passed. All types of garden wisteria are cold-resistant, but it is better not to expose young plants to the risk of frostbite. Before planting wisteria, it is necessary to determine in which area it will grow better - wisteria is not an annual, and if you are interested in the quality of flowering, then keep in mind that it should be in the sun for half a day, so choose the most sunny and protected from gusts of wind, the soil is nutritious, well-drained and slightly alkaline.

How to plant wisteria

Wisteria seedlings are transplanted into pits 60x60x50 cm in size, having previously applied mineral fertilizers to the soil in the area for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per square meter of planting area. Be prepared for the fact that wisteria will not show signs of life for some time - it grows for a long time, and in the first years it forms only long thin shoots. In general, you can see beautiful flowers of wisteria grown from seeds only after 4-5, or even after 10 years.

Care for wisteria in the garden

How to grow wisteria

From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil underneath is always slightly moist, but never wet. If the spring is without rain, then you will have to water more diligently, because the buds may crumble, and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted. From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced.

In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to pour wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to fade, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to cut dry branches, tie up and guide the shoots so that they do not fall and grow in the right direction.

Before the onset of winter, you need to spud the rosette high, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the near-stem circle, as they do with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spunbond or lutrasil. You can not do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, the wisteria may freeze.

When does wisteria bloom? Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, Japanese - at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who know how to wait. Chinese wisteria blooms from April, with all buds opening at the same time. Wisteria blooms profusely from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will grow green, but will not bloom.

pruning wisteria

Trim the wisteria to stimulate flowering and in order to form the plant. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is chosen, and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove abundantly growing side shoots so that wisteria does not expend energy on overgrowing greens, but directs them to the formation of buds.

Pruning wisteria in the spring consists in removing young shoots sticking out so that they do not hide flower clusters from view during flowering with their foliage. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can produce an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm.

Formative pruning of the plant is carried out in the summer: lateral shoots are cut by 20-40 cm, and at the very end of summer by another 10-20 cm. However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you can deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush flowering of wisteria.

Propagation of wisteria

We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by seed. It is worth adding that many of the germinated and even grown seedlings may never produce flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told readers that propagation by seeds is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative methods of reproduction.

Wisteria is most easily propagated by layering. To do this, in the spring, an annual shoot is selected, an oblique incision is made in the middle of its length, the shoot is bent and placed with an incision on a pot with a clay-soddy substrate, the outlet is fixed in this position and added dropwise, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cuttings from the mother plant only next spring.

Various publications write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on the roots, but I don’t know anyone who actually succeeded, but my layering took root.

Pests and diseases of wisteria

Sometimes wisteria is occupied by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed by an insecticide, and mites by an acaricidal preparation. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, it can be affected by chlorosis, which causes its leaves to turn yellow. In the fight against the disease, root dressing of wisteria with iron salts is used.

Types and varieties of wisteria

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

Dense leafy vine up to 15-20 m in height. The leaves are pinnate, large, at first pubescent, but eventually becoming smooth. Flowers in loose racemes up to 30 cm long, light lilac. The fruit is a bean up to 15 cm long. This species has a garden form with white flowers (f. alba) and a form with double flowers (f. plena).

Anyone who first saw a blooming wisteria for a long time cannot believe that there is a living plant in front of him. Long floral tassels look so impressive that the first thing that comes to mind is a designer with a wild imagination, and not mother nature. Wisteria, often referred to as wisteria, is one of the most beautiful flowering vines. From a distance, her brushes resemble a foamy waterfall, she blooms so generously that branches and leaves are often not visible behind purple, blue or white clusters. Wisteria is gorgeous, growing and caring for it will be the topic of our article.

Wisteria (Wisteria) is a small, consisting of only 9 species, genus of woody vines belonging to the legume family. It originates from China and Japan.

A tree-like deciduous liana, depending on the species, reaching from 8 to 20 meters with pinnate, unpaired beautiful leaves with 7-19 segments - this is exactly what wisteria looks like. This plant blooms in spring with purple or white flowers, collected in fragrant inflorescences-brushes ranging in size from 30 to 50 cm. The fruit is a bean up to 15 cm long.

Wisteria loves warmth, growing it in areas with a temperate and cold climate is difficult, the further north you go, the better shelter this vine requires for the winter. It should be noted that its plantings endure the polluted air of cities well.

Species and varieties

Although the plant is represented by 9 species, in the countries of the former Soviet Union, Chinese wisteria and profusely flowering or multi-flowered wisteria are most often grown.

Chinese wisteria

Chinese wisteria grows up to 15-20 meters, its pinnate leaf about 30 cm in size has from 7 to 11 (sometimes 13) leaflets, pubescent at the beginning of the growing season, later - smooth. The stems wrap around the support counterclockwise.

Loose brushes up to 30 cm long consist of an abundance of fragrant flowers, usually light purple, less often white. Chinese wisteria blooms at the same time as the leaves appear, and all its flowers open almost simultaneously.

With good care in August-September, repeated flowering may occur, not as plentiful as the first, but also very attractive. This species can withstand short-term temperature drops to 20 degrees below zero.

Description of the most popular varieties:

• "Alba" - white with short tassels;
• "Prolific" - profusely flowering and with longer tassels than the original species;
• "Sierra Madre" - wisteria of this variety blooms earlier than others with lilac-purple flowers;
• "Captivity" - wisteria, in which the flower is terry;
• "Blue Sapphire" - begins to bloom in May or early summer with violet-blue flowers with a strong sweetish aroma.

Chinese wisteria "Alba"
Chinese Wisteria "Blue Sapphire"

Wisteria profusely flowering or many-flowered

More frost-resistant wisteria is profusely flowering or multi-flowered, very similar to Chinese, but blooms 2-3 weeks later and only after the leaves appear. Its leaf blade reaches 40 cm and has 11-19 segments. Wisteria grows profusely flowering up to 8 meters, its shoots twist clockwise.

Flower brushes reach half a meter, but in varietal plants they can exceed a meter in length. First, flowers bloom at the base of the brush, then at the top. The most popular varieties:

• "Alba" - white inflorescences up to 60 cm long;
• "Celestina" - with lilac-blue flowers;
• "Multiyuga" - a variety with brushes 0.9-1.2 meters long and lilac-blue flowers with a yellow base;
• "Rosea" - white and pink wisteria, its flower is about 45 cm in size and has purple wings and a boat;
• "Royal Pearl" - with purple-violet flowers and tassels 30-50 cm in size.

There is a form of "Variegata" - with multi-color leaves.

Wisteria profusely flowering or multi-flowered "Rosea"
Wisteria profusely flowering or multi-flowered "Variegata"

Wisterias of other species

Wisteria large-bunch is represented by a single variety. Wisteria with the name "Blue Moon" is the most frost-resistant of the existing ones and can withstand frosts up to 40 degrees, it grows quickly and blooms up to 3 times per season with lilac-blue flowers.

An unusually beautiful variety with double purple flowers "Double Black Dragon". Interestingly, its origin is unknown, as well as its species affiliation - this blooming purple wisteria has signs of different species, experts attribute it either to Chinese or to many-flowered.

Wisteria large-bunch "Blue moon"
Wisteria 'Double Black Dragon'

Japanese wisteria usually blooms with white flowers less abundantly than the species listed above, moreover, its frost resistance is much lower.

Ways to propagate wisteria

Wisteria is propagated by cuttings, seeds and layering.

Growing from seeds

It is easy to grow wisteria from seeds, but keep in mind that wisteria from seeds does not inherit varietal characteristics, and besides, it may not bloom at all. Sometimes, although quite rarely, a liana grown from seeds surpasses the mother's in decorative qualities.

Wisteria seeds do not lose their germination for 2-3 years. Sowing time: late November - early December; directly into the soil - in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. For seed germination, they make up the substrate of the following composition:

• sheet soil - 4 parts;
• soddy soil - 1 part;
• sand - 1 part.

wisteria seeds

Seeds are placed on the ground and slightly crushed with sand or peat, then covered with glass or film and kept in a dark place at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. It is very important that the soil does not dry out, but is also not waterlogged - wisteria seeds can easily rot.

Shoots usually appear in a month, and after another 10-15 days they need to be put in a bright place, slightly shaded to accustom to the sun. Wisteria seedlings dive into separate pots in the phase of two true leaves, removing from the ground with a tablespoon so as not to damage the spine. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place only the next year after germination.

Wisteria grown from seeds will be much easier to care for than grafted or cuttings. But it will bloom no earlier than in 4-6 years.

Reproduction by cuttings

Shrubs and woody vines with softwood cuttings are difficult to reproduce, among them is wisteria. But propagation by cuttings is still possible.

Apical cuttings about 15 cm long are taken at the very end of flowering or immediately after flowering. The lower leaves are cut off, and the upper ones are shortened by 2/3, the lower cut is treated with heteroauxin and planted in a mixture of sand, peat and fertile soil. Landing is done with a slope of about 30 degrees, deepening one kidney completely into the ground, the second should be at the level of the soil. From this it can be seen that strongly elongated shoots with rare internodes are not suitable for cuttings.

The box with cuttings should stand in a shady place, protected from strong winds, but with good ventilation. It is best to cover the plantings with a transparent film, ventilate and spray them daily. A few days after the new leaves hatch, the shelter must be removed.

Such plantings should winter either in cold greenhouses, if in winter the temperature there is about 10 degrees, or in a room with the same temperature and dim lighting. Cuttings can be planted directly in open ground only in the south, otherwise the wisteria will die. Growing cuttings can be considered successful even if 30% of plantings survive by next spring. When the buds swell, it will be possible to plant wisteria in a permanent place. The planted stalk at first needs to be covered from the sun.

Each of the ornamental plants that adorn our garden has some kind of "highlight" - feature. For example, blooming...

Reproduction by layering

What is the easiest way to grow wisteria? An easy, reliable, but unproductive method of reproduction is layering. In the spring, at the very beginning of the growing season, you need to choose a good low-lying one-year-old shoot, bend it, cut it, powder the wound surface with heteroauxin. Then plant with the cut down either in a nearby pot or in the ground, for reliability, securing the branch with bent electrodes.

Reproduction by grafting

A varietal cutting is grafted in winter on the root of a plant grown from seeds. Only a specialist can vaccinate on the roots; care and cultivation of a grafted plant at first cannot be called easy either. Let's leave this method of reproduction to nurseries.

Planting wisteria in the ground

Often beginner gardeners are interested in the question of when to plant wisteria: in spring or autumn? It is planted and transplanted in the spring. Before planting wisteria, choose a well-lit, wind-sheltered spot with nutritious, well-drained soil.

Dig a 60 x 60 cm hole about 50 cm deep. Lay drainage if necessary, then fill the hole with fertile soil. Plant at the same depth as the wisteria used to grow. Her planting ends with a garter to the support and abundant watering.

Spring and summer abound with bright colors and a variety of flower shapes. Due to which at this time our gardens ...

Care for wisteria after disembarkation

Planting and caring for a wisteria is not particularly difficult.

Watering

During active growth, the vine is watered systematically, but not waterlogged. In autumn, watering is gradually reduced, but do not forget that if the autumn is dry, it is necessary to do pre-winter moisture charging. Wisteria is prone to freezing, and this procedure cannot be neglected.

top dressing

The first three years of wisteria need regular feeding. From the beginning of the growing season until the end of flowering, it is fed twice a month with complex mineral fertilizers. In late August and September, feed the plant with potassium monophosphate or any other phosphorus-potassium fertilizer that does not contain nitrogen at all.

Starting from the fourth year after disembarkation, you can feed wisteria 4 times per season:

• The first feeding (immediately after the start of the growing season) with a nitrogen content;
• The second and third (during the formation of buds and at the height of flowering) - little nitrogen, a lot of phosphorus and potassium;
• Fourth (end of August - September) - phosphorus-potassium top dressing.

Do not feed wisteria with organic fertilizers - they contain high doses of nitrogen, and the plant belongs to the legumes that produce it themselves.

Care after flowering

During flowering, regularly remove wilted inflorescences. The wisteria has bloomed. Further care consists of watering, loosening, top dressing, weed removal and pruning.

Trimming and shaping

From this creeper, you can easily form a small tree or bonsai. Wisteria at the age of several decades has a rather thick trunk - up to 20-30 cm. But even at a younger age, old shoots cannot be called thin. If you want to get something exotic and not like a vine, you need to start shaping from the first years of life.

Proper and timely pruning is the key to abundant long-term flowering. To get a large number of flower buds immediately after flowering, cut off last year's shoots, leaving no more than 30 cm (the remaining cuttings can be rooted). In mid-August, shorten the growth of the current year, leaving 4-5 buds, and in the spring, after removing the shelter, cut another 2-3 internodes.

Wintering

Perhaps this is the most difficult stage of wisteria care. In the southernmost regions, it grows without shelter, a little further north it is spudded like roses. The further north the wisteria grows, the more serious shelter it needs. It is removed from the support in autumn, laid on the ground, covered with spruce branches, covered with agrofibre, if necessary, additionally covered with leaves.

But there will come a time when you simply cannot remove the wisteria from the support. Then you will have to install a special covering structure around the support. The older the plant, the more frost it can endure.

Pests, diseases and possible problems

Wisteria rarely gets sick and is affected by pests. Use insecticides to control insects.

If the soil is excessively alkaline, iron may cease to be absorbed - treat wisteria leaf with a complex of chelates or pour with iron chelate.

Why is the wisteria not blooming? There may be several reasons:

• Too short cut;
• There were no forming trims;
• Excess nitrogen fertilizers and lack of phosphorus;
• The flower buds are frozen in the winter;
• The plant is too young;
• Wisteria is grown from seed and will not bloom at all.

Wisteria in landscape design

Wisteria is beautiful in itself and does not need to be emphasized. But it will look great against the background of green plantings or in company with tulips growing at the foot.

The wisteria will look especially beautiful against the background of the wall of the building or as a frame for a gazebo, balcony or terrace.

Formed as a standard tree or bonsai, the plant will effectively look like a tub plant anywhere in the garden or at home, during flowering it should be put in the most prominent place.

The flowering of wisteria is a whirlpool of bright colors, when long brushes - purple, blue, white and pink clusters, emitting a sweetish aroma - rush down like an unstoppable waterfall. After all, it is not for nothing that the reserved Japanese compare a garden with blooming wisterias with a walk in paradise.

Growing wisteria in horticultural culture is actively used for the site, because it occupies a minimum area, it has an exceptional decorative effect. With the help of wisteria, you can not only decorate a wall (it’s not for nothing that they call it a “garden climber”, it grows by easily climbing supports), a fence or any building, but also mask visually unsightly “technical” parts of the garden, zone the yard with green screens and get protection and shelter from wind and sun.

Types of wisteria: Chinese, floriferous and frost-resistant

Wisteria as a genus includes 9 species, but only a few are most widespread in our country:

• Chinese - Wisteria chinensis, densely leafy creeper, reaching a height of up to 20 m. Its flowers are inflorescences of light purple, less often white, up to 30 cm long, while the flowers bloom almost simultaneously in the entire inflorescence. Wisteria blooms its flowers simultaneously with the appearance of foliage and continues to bloom all summer. The secondary flowering is quite common between August and September. Cirrus graceful foliage adds to its decorative effect, its golden color will decorate the autumn garden. With proper systematic pruning, you can get a tree-like upright or standard shape. It perfectly adapts to the conditions of the city, can tolerate short frosts down to -20C. Decorative forms: with terry and white flowers

• profusely flowering - Wisteria floribunda or multi-flowered, leads its pedigree from Japan. It reaches a height of about 8-10 m and a width of up to 6 m, has large (45-50 cm) racemose hanging conical inflorescences with violet-blue flowers. It begins to bloom after the appearance of leaves, compared to Chinese - 2-3 weeks later. In this case, the flowers bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush and gradually descending lower. It blooms until the beginning of summer (mid-June), but in some varieties re-blooming occurs in July-August. Compared with another popular species - Chinese wisteria, this variety is more decorative (after flowering, abundant large, up to 45 cm, leaves act as an excellent decor) and more frost-resistant - it tolerates frosts down to -23C. There are several decorative forms: white, pink, purple terry, with variegated leaves, large-bunch (inflorescences reach a length of up to 1.5 m)

• Blue Moon - frost-resistant wisteria, "adult" plants are able to endure frosts down to -37C without damage and without shelter. Made in USA, Minnesota. In the middle lane it blooms in early June, flowering lasts about 2 weeks. Inflorescences 20-25 (sometimes up to 30 cm) long, blue

• Japanese wisteria - less common, primarily because of its low frost resistance, feels comfortable only on the coast of the Caucasus or in the Crimea. Less decorative than other species - white flowers, inflorescences 15-20 cm long.

Wisteria care: rules and features

Wisteria can not be called too demanding in care, it does not require much time. It is necessary to follow fairly simple rules of care so that the plant grows actively and blooms profusely.

Choice of location. Wisteria is photophilous, under the sun should be at least 6 hours a day. At the same time, it should be well protected from a cold place, so the southern (southwest, southeast) will be the best place. house wall. When used in vertical gardening for shoots of wisteria, a durable and strong support should be selected. Due to the high windage of the vine, it must be stable and able to withstand a sufficiently high wind load.

Advice! The shoots must be tied up, otherwise they can independently braid around the support, and in the fall it will be very difficult to remove the vine without damage in order to press it to the ground for shelter for the winter.

The soil. Wisteria loves fertile, light, well-permeable, not very wet soil. It is very difficult to tolerate calcareous soils - in this case, it develops chlorosis - the leaves become very light and lose their decorative appeal. It is best to fill the landing pit (dimensions 60x60x50 cm) with a mixture of humus, peat and sand and soddy soil in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 3 - this mixture contains many nutrients and contributes to the active development and further flowering of wisteria.

Watering. Wisteria does not like too wet soil - excessive soil moisture can cause leaves and buds to drop. In a very dry spring, wisteria should be shed abundantly so that, due to lack of moisture, the buds do not dry out and crumble. From the beginning of flowering until the end of summer, moderate watering is carried out - the soil should be only slightly moist. In order not to cause water stagnation at the wisteria root, it is better to water it by spraying in hot weather. At the end of September, watering is practically stopped - the plant slows down growth and begins to prepare for winter.

Wisteria flowers belong to the legume family. From Latin it is translated as "wisteria". In height, the decorative culture reaches 15-18 m and is a tree-like deciduous and semi-deciduous liana with drooping vines. During the flowering period, racemose inflorescences, like bright clusters with a pleasant aroma, hang down to the ground, delighting with their beauty.

Wisteria in landscape design

Wisteria is very decorative. In warm climates, it is widely used in landscape design and gardening. Growing in a garden plot, it is combined with white tulips and yellow daffodils planted in the root part. In Siberia, wisteria is often grown in summer in large pots, which are placed in the backyard.

Weaving and fast-growing trees are perfect for vertical decoration of house facades, summer verandas and balconies. By providing a support in the form of an arch, you can give the southern beauty a spectacular look. To form a weeping crown of your own free will, it must be cut. Any option will turn the garden plot into a beautiful garden, pleasing to the eye.

The use of wisteria in the Russian regions may be limited by the low frost resistance of the plant. The situation is corrected by varieties that can grow in tubs and pots. In addition, an exotic culture can become a striking specimen in a winter greenhouse.

Description of the main types and varieties of wisteria

There are 9 varieties registered in the wisteria genus, but only 2 are widely used in horticulture:

• Japanese (profusely flowering);
• Chinese.

Less common in landscape design received:

• large-carpus;
• shrubby;
• beautiful.

For the Russian regions of the middle lane, Ukraine and Belarus, the Blue Moon variety, bred by American breeders, is most suitable. If, in the process of growing an exotic beauty, the advice of experienced gardeners is taken into account, flowering will occur 5 to 10 years after the seedlings are planted.

How to cut wisteria (video)

Came to our country from Japan. It is inferior in beauty and frost resistance to other varieties, so it has become widespread mainly on the coast of the Caucasus or in the Crimea. Rarely reaches 8 - 9 m in height, but has large leaves and inflorescences with small flowers. Depending on the garden form, their color palette can be white, pink or light purple.

A beautiful liana with dense foliage, native to China, capable of growing up to 15 m. It has large foliage and beautiful light purple flowers, decorated in hanging brushes 30 cm long.

The plant prefers sunlit places, blooms in spring and retains flowering vines throughout the summer period, which turn into densely fringed beans in autumn. Often used by gardeners in vertical gardening in the southern regions of Russia. It is remarkable not only for its bright flowers, but also for its feathery leaves, which turn into golden hues with the onset of cold weather. Using special pruning, you can give an upright, tree-like or standard shape. Decorative varieties:

• alba;
• captivity;
• Blue Sapphire;
• Sierra Madre.

This variety is able to withstand only short-term cooling down to -20 ° C.

Released in Japan. In Russia, it spread to the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. The difference from other species is in the leaves pubescent with velvet, mainly from the underside. The shoots are also covered with silky fluff. Large purple or pale white double flowers form hanging brushes, 20 cm long.

Beautifully flowering sun-loving vine bred in North America. Refers to closely related species of wisteria shrub, boasts huge racemes of flowers that reach 30 cm. Inflorescences reach 1.5 m.

The flowering plant was brought to Europe from the USA. Woody vines grow from 8 m to 10 m. The diameter of the stems at the base can reach 25 - 40 cm. The young plant is covered with whitish short hairs, which disappear with time, and the shoots become bare. Flowers - hanging racemose violet - blue inflorescences bloom in spring. Repeated flowering is observed in July - September.

A special kind of wisteria. Grows up to 12 m. It has drooping branches, on which flowers of violet - blue color grow. Wonderfully decorates alpine slides, creating an unusual vertical look. A plant planted in a tub, in the form of a small tree, can decorate any room.

Features of growing wisteria from seeds at home

Liana reproduces in several ways, using:

• shoots;
• cuttings;
• vaccinations;
• seeds.

The simplest and most guaranteed way is propagation by seeds (wisteria seeds), which are readily available in specialized stores.

For seedlings by the end of spring, it is necessary to start germinating seeds from December - January. Beans should be soaked in damp gauze. After they swell and hatch, they need to be planted in a specially prepared substrate.

The soil for seedlings should contain three parts of leafy soil, one part of turf and sand. Experienced experts do not recommend adding peat, as it acidifies the soil, which negatively affects wisteria. As organic matter, it is allowed to add humus. Wisteria prefers good moisture conductivity, so the bottom of the tank should be lined with expanded clay or brick fragments.

Planting swollen beans requires special technology. Plant seeds should be planted in the ground and covered with 1 cm of soil. Then, to maintain moisture, cover the container with a film or glass and put it in a dark place. The ambient temperature must be maintained within 22 - 25 degrees. Depending on the variety of wisteria, sprouts appear after 30 - 40 days. If climatic conditions allow, in early spring you can plant the seed directly into the ground. In this case, the seedlings will be more hardy and facilitate further care.

How wisteria reproduces (video)

General rules for planting wisteria in the garden

Before purchasing seeds or seedlings of wisteria, you should choose a variety suitable for the region and take into account the characteristics of their cultivation. Since wisteria is a perennial plant, it is necessary to choose a permanent place for it, otherwise the root system can be easily injured during transplantation. Landing in the ground is carried out according to the following scheme:

• The area allotted for planting seedlings must be dug up and mineral fertilizers applied at the rate of 25 - 30 g per 1 m².
• Before planting a seedling, recesses 60 × 60 × 50 cm in size should be prepared, on the bottom of which a layer of drainage should be laid. In the future, this will protect the roots from flooding with groundwater.
• It is necessary to place seedlings in the prepared pits, without removing the earth from the rhizomes, pour plenty of water and sprinkle with soil.
• Since wisteria grows very slowly, in the first years it will only form thin shoots.

To preserve moisture, the soil can be covered with fresh grass. At first, the growth of seedlings may not be noticeable. Luxurious flowering will come only after 5 - 10 years.

Wisteria does not require serious care. For abundant flowering, it is necessary to provide:

• good sunlight exposure;
• strong support;
• moderate watering;
• top dressing with fertilizers;
• shelter for the winter, protecting from frost;
• pruning twice a year (after the end of flowering and leaf fall);
• after flowering, it is important to remove dry buds and regularly get rid of diseased old branches.

In the event that wisteria cannot be grown in open ground, it can be planted in a flowerpot and brought into the home for the winter. To form a standard tree, it is necessary to form a crown in the spring, cutting off the side shoots.

The subtleties of growing wisteria in the Rostov and Leningrad regions

Wisteria is a thermophilic plant. In the northern regions, it can die from frost. Even if the roots survive, new shoots will not throw out inflorescences for a long time. Many varieties are not able to endure even autumn cold at temperatures below 10 ° C.

In the Rostov and Leningrad regions, creepers are able to develop only when protected from winter cold. In the first spring, gardeners place seedlings not in open ground, but in special barrels with a volume of 45 - 55 liters, tying vines to supports. In autumn, when the temperature drops to 15 ° C, the plant is transferred to the basement.

In winter, wisteria requires watering once a week. In bright light and high temperatures, the plant will die. With the onset of spring, the container must be moved to a well-lit room and watered once every couple of days. In open ground, the plant can be transplanted after the street temperature does not fall below 10 ° C.

An adult tree in late autumn must be spudded, removed from a support, attached to the ground and covered with straw, leaves or covering material. Lianas can do without shelter only in the Caucasus, in the Crimea, in the south of Ukraine.

Why wisteria does not bloom (video)

Protection of wisteria from diseases and pests

Wisteria is quite resistant to diseases and pests. Among the most dangerous insects for wisteria are aphids and mites. If cracks in the form of thin stripes become noticeable on the plant, provoking twisting of the leaves, then it is threatened by a clover mite. Aphids have a negative effect on flowers. As a result, the inflorescences become smaller, reducing splendor. Leaves dry and fall over time. As protection against pests, wisteria must be treated with insecticides and acaricides, which are sold in specialized stores.

The composition of the soil can affect the condition of the vine. From calcareous or clay soil, the leaves begin to turn yellow, turn pale (chlorosis). In this case, the tree must be fed with fertilizers with iron salts.

There is both garden wisteria and indoor wisteria, but the first is the most successful. The indoor version is often grown in the form of bonsai, which is valued for its fragrant flowers. Despite the fact that wisteria is a very heat-loving plant, they learned to grow it in regions with a cooler climate.

Once, while watching some American family movie, I was amazed at the beauty of the plant, which “covered” the walls of a country-style house. And, of course, I wanted to grow such a miracle in my garden. However, it turned out that growing wisteria is not an easy thing.
My eternal problem is watering. Wisteria, although it loves moisture, but an excess of this very moisture is detrimental to the plant. In spring and summer, watering should be moderate, but from mid-autumn and winter - generally rare. Much depends on the conditions in which the beauty grows. In the summer, when it is hot, I spray the plant in the morning or evening, if during the day, I spray the air next to the plant, otherwise burns cannot be avoided.
Having adapted to proper care, I forgot about some difficulties and now just enjoy the beauty of my wisteria.

Good afternoon. I would be extremely grateful if you offer to buy us your Blue Moon Wisteria seeds. After reading about this vine, the desire to have it in the garden haunts. Write, please, if you have such an opportunity. Thanks in advance Julia.

In one of the landscape design catalogs I saw a gazebo decorated with wisteria, and realized that such a beauty must definitely live in my garden. Unfortunately, none of my friends grow wisteria, so there was no one to borrow the experience of growing.
I know that there are 2 options for planting: layering and seeds. For layering in spring or summer, take one-year ripe shoots of small length (20-25 cm). Soil: sod land (3 parts) + peat (1) + humus (1) + sand (1). In this soil, the shoots are rooted, and at the end of summer they are planted in the ground.
Planting seeds is much more difficult than the first method. You can plant seeds in greenhouses (late autumn - early winter) or in the spring in the ground. Soil: 4 parts sheet + 1 part soddy ground + 1 part sand. The mixture should be loose.
The difficulty lies in the fact that at first the crops must be covered with polyethylene or glass in order to increase the humidity. Then put in a dark place! Seedlings appear in 3-4 weeks, after which you need to take them out into the light and put them in a light shade. After the appearance of 2 leaves, we proceed to dive.
Now I don’t know what is better to choose, maybe someone has tried it already?

there is no difficulty in growing wisteria with seeds. I stuck the seeds collected in autumn in March into pots with indoor flowers and forgot. After a couple of weeks, strong shoots appeared .. after the first two pairs of leaves appeared. I planted them in separate pots. Now they are on the windowsill and waiting for summer. I just water like ordinary indoor flowers. I don’t observe any darkness and temperature

Why sell the seeds then?

Maxim Anatolievich

I think growing Wisteria from seeds is worth it if you live in a warm climate, somewhere in the south. If somewhere in a cold place, where it is from 30 in winter, then look only towards the blue moon variety. And even then, according to reviews and according to my personal observations, the “overwintering” of the blue moon cutting, for example, in our Orenburg region, where it happens up to 42-45 frost, is very problematic, even though gardeners cover plantings very carefully.

I live in a temperate climate, but I wanted to grow this plant so much that I chose the next option - cuttings.
I rooted them in the appropriate substrate, and then, at the end of summer, after the leaves appeared, I planted them in large flowerpots - there will be a tree. I did not dare to plant in open ground, because. in winter we have "severe" frosts.
In autumn, the flowerpots were placed on the veranda, where the temperature fluctuates on average from 8 to 11°C. In winter, wisteria requires moderate watering.
In the spring, I will cut the side shoots, leaving 2-3 buds to form a crown. In the summer I will again take it out into the open air in the bright sun. I think that everything will work out)))