A flower such as rudbeckia belongs to the herbaceous plants of the Aster family. Rudbeckia comes from the prairies of North America, where European colonists once saw it for the first time and were fascinated by its beauty.

In the material you will learn more about this flower, see photos of different types, find out what are the features of growing, planting and caring for these flowers.

• annual;
• two-year;
• perennial.

Depending on this, the methods of planting and growing them differ. They also differ from each other in appearance depending on the species. For example, the height of rudbecky can reach 0.5 - 3 meters. The leaves of the plant can grow up to 20 cm and have ovoid or oval shape. The flowers of the plant are large and bright, their diameter reaches 10-15 cm, they are also collected in inflorescence baskets, rising heads up on a highly placed peduncle.

Lingual bracts, depending on the type of rudbeckia, can have different shades:

• golden yellow;
• plain;
• dark brown;
• red-brown.

Below we consider some types of rudbeckia both annual and perennial

Planting, growing and caring for annual rudbeckia

Unlike perennials, annuals can only be grown from seeds. Seeds can either be planted in seedlings, or immediately in open ground. Consider both landing methods.

Planting seeds of annuals for seedlings

In this case, landing should be done at the beginning of April. To do this, you need to prepare a large and shallow container, a greenhouse or small peat glasses. In order for the seed to germinate, the earth must be heated to at least 16 degrees. If necessary, the landing site is watered with hot water.

Next, the seed must be pressed shallowly into the soil by 3 mm, or simply scattered over its surface, lightly sprinkled on top. After the planting process is completed, the seed does not need to be watered, just spraying is enough. Rudbeckia seedlings are very sensitive to frost, so the planted seed must be brought into the room and covered with polyethylene or glass.

In two weeks, sprouts should appear. Before planting in a permanent place, they should be placed in the sun and watered regularly. Two weeks before this moment, the flowers begin to harden, taking them out daily to the street, each time increasing the residence time.

With proper care, seedlings from the seeds of an annual rudbeckia are planted in open ground closer to summer. So that the flowers in the future do not interfere with each other, you need between low bushes leave a gap of 50 cm, and between high - 1 m, respectively.

With this method of planting, rudbeckia flowers will bloom from mid-summer to mid-autumn.

Planting seeds of annuals in the ground

The seed of annuals can be planted directly into the ground in the middle of summer. Thanks to this method of growing flowering, you will wait for the next season. Planting is carried out in the same way as for seedlings, only the distance should be greater.

Plant care for this cultivation includes such activities:

• splashing;
• thinning sprouts;
• weed control.

Rudbeckia needs to be planted in a sunny area, so you will ensure the best flowering. High varieties are best planted along fences, and low varieties along flower beds and paths.

Features of planting perennial rudbeckia

The seed of perennial rudbeckia is sown directly in open ground. Landing is carried out in May, if the region is too northern, then in June. The flower is not particularly picky about the soil, even a clay surface will suit it, but the bed for planting and growing the plant needs to be fertilized so that the flower grows quickly and is lush.

After planting the seeds, they need to be on top sprinkle some earth and splash a little with water. The plant will sprout in the fall, then the seedlings can be dived to a permanent place of cultivation. And if you planted flowers immediately in a permanent place, then they will bloom the next season.

Perennial seeds can be planted at home or in greenhouses for seedlings in the month of April. And they are transplanted at the end of May. At the same time, make sure that the planting depth in open ground is the same as in the container before.

Features of care

Rudbeckia is a flower that, in terms of caring for it, is not too capricious and is durable. For comfortable growing care is very simple:

• you need to water the flower on time. Rudbeckia loves moisture, but at the same time, he will not be afraid of a short drought either. Watering is increased during flowering;
• feed rudbeckia;
• plant pruning. It is necessary to remove dead inflorescences in time in order to activate the long-term flowering of plants and maintain its attractive appearance. In winter, rudbeckia bushes are cut at the root and covered with spruce branches or dry grass so that the flowers do not freeze.

Top dressings and fertilizers

Rudbeckia treats fertilizers well. You need to feed her twice during the season. The first time this is done at the beginning of growth, when the root system is already a little developed. For this, mineral fertilizers are used.

The second top dressing is carried out after 20 days, here it is better to take a solution based on nitrophoska and Ross fertilizer.

Reproduction features

Flowers reproduce not only through seeds, but also by division. Bushes are divided about once every five years. With long-term cultivation in one place, the flower capable of producing good seedlings. Large bushes are dug up and neatly divided into parts. Delenki need to be planted in the garden with a distance.

Reproduction of rudbeckia is best done before the plant enters the active phase of development. For example, in early spring or autumn after the plant has faded.

Dangerous diseases and pests

Rudbeckia is practically not exposed to diseases, only sometimes the plant can suffer from powdery mildew, when a white coating appears on the leaves and stems in the form of flour. For treatment, the flower is sprayed with a one percent solution of colloidal sulfur or treated with copper sulphate.

Another disease characteristic of rudbeckia in rare cases is leaf nematode. With it, brown heels appear on the leaves, provoking their withering. To fight in this case, you need to use special preparations or remove the damaged part of the plant and burn it.

As part of caring for rudbeckia, you should regularly check it for the presence of leaf-eating pests. The following species are dangerous for her:

• leaf-eating beetles;
• caterpillars;
• thrips;
• spider mite.

But all diseases and pests do not pose any danger to the flower if it is cared for correctly and on time.

Combination with other plants and application in design

In landscape design this flower is used in different ways, for example:

• in the garden;
• at fences and fences;
• against the background of buildings;
• along paths and sidewalks.

Growing in the garden gives their owners only pleasure, since rudbeckia are very unpretentious in caring for them. And they will delight your eye even in autumn, when other garden flowers have already faded.

If you plant rudbeckia with other plants, but you need to take into account its dimensions. Some of its varieties can grow up to 2 meters, so this will not be good for nearby light-loving plants.

High varieties that need to be tied up are best planted in the background of compositions. They will look very impressive next to rudbeckia chrysanthemums and asters, original compositions will be obtained in combination with echinacea purpurea.

Rudbeckia looks great both in monocompositions and in group plantings. good combinations of which are obtained with plants such as:

• calendula;
• marigold;
• kosmeya;
• gaillardia;
• nivyanik;
• monarch and others.

Both perennial and annual rudbeckia in terms of planting, growing and caring will not cause you significant trouble. They will make a great decoration for any area. If you all look after them faithfully, these flowers will delight you even in autumn.

beautiful rudbeckia

Rudbeckia is an annual or perennial plant from the Asteraceae family. She is a native of North America. Flowers similar in shape to chamomile are distinguished by yellow petals and a lush convex core. Due to its characteristic appearance, rudbeckia is a welcome guest in the garden. It blooms profusely and for a long time, turning the flower garden into a golden lake. The people call rudbeckia "sun hat" or "Black-eyed Susanna." Rudbeckia does not need regular care. This hardy flower will delight owners in one place for up to five years.

Botanical description

Rudbeckia is a flowering rhizome plant. The erect stems are slightly branched and covered with short, stiff hairs. Their length is 50-200 cm. Whole or pinnately dissected leaves consist of oval or ovoid leaf plates 5-25 cm long. The lower foliage grows on long petioles, and the upper one sits tightly on the stem. The leaves are opposite. On the surface of dark green leaves, a relief of longitudinal veins is visible.

In July, the top of the stem elongates and turns into a peduncle. A basket inflorescence blooms on it. Along the edge are sterile reed flowers. The petals bent down turn yellow, orange, and sometimes red. The lush core consists of tubular bisexual flowers. They are dark brown, almost black. Depending on the variety, the diameter of the basket is 3-15 cm. Replacing each other, the flowers remain on the bushes until frost.

During flowering, a pleasant tart aroma spreads over the flower bed. It attracts bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects. After pollination, rounded multi-seeded pods ripen, sometimes with a crown. It contains elongated, ribbed gray-brown seeds.

Types of rudbeckia

There are about 40 plant species in the genus Rudbeckia. All of them are decorative and very similar to each other. Gardeners divide species according to their life cycle. So, annual rudbeckia is represented by the following varieties.

Rudbeckia hairy (hairy). The plant lives no more than two years and propagates by seeds. Simple or branched shoots up to 1 m high are covered with ovate or broadly lanceolate leaves. There is a hard pile on the shoots and serrated foliage. During the flowering period, the bush is abundantly covered with inflorescences-baskets. A row of golden-yellow rounded petals frames a purple-gray core. The diameter of the inflorescence is 10 cm. Varieties:

• Autumn leaves - a plant up to 75 cm high is decorated with inflorescences with bronze, brown or red velvety petals around a brown core;
• Rudbeckia shaggy moreno - differs from the previous variety in red-brown petals with a yellow edge, arranged in several rows;
• Goldilocks - bushes 40-60 cm high bloom terry orange inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter;
• Green eyes - on vegetation up to 70 cm high, flowers bloom with an olive-green inner disk on the petals;
• Rudbeckia cherry brandy - the inflorescence consists of red petals with purple veins in the center and a purple-brown core.

Rudbeckia hairy

Vertical growth 25-70 cm high is covered with dark green lanceolate foliage. The stems and leaves are pubescent with a silvery-gray pile. Inflorescences with a diameter of 6-8 cm are distinguished by a less convex core and narrow long petals, painted in 2 contrasting colors. As a result, a bright circle is visible around the center.

Perennial rudbeckia is represented by the following species.

This large plant reaches 2 m in height. Rigid erect stems are covered with pinnately divided leaves. In an inflorescence about 10 cm in diameter, reed flowers form 1-3 rows of bright yellow petals. The elongated central column consists of light yellow tubular flowers. The popular Golden Ball rudbeckia variety is distinguished by double or semi-double inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter. Bright yellow petals frame a greenish core.

Thin, branched in the upper part of the shoots grow up to 60 cm in height. They have lanceolate leaves. In the middle of summer, inflorescences up to 9 cm in diameter bloom. The orange petals are bent back, and the center in the form of a lush hemisphere is painted in dark purple.

A plant up to 2-2.5 m high is covered with olive-green lanceolate leaves with a shiny surface. The edges of the leaves are serrated. Inflorescences with rounded petals look like small suns with a diameter of 12-15 cm.

Growing from seeds

Seed propagation of rudbeckia is the most common. It is especially relevant for annuals, but terry varieties are not propagated by self-collected seeds. In open ground, seeds are sown only in well-heated ground (end of May-June). They are deepened by 5-10 mm into holes at a distance of 15 cm. After 2-3 weeks, shoots will appear, and by the end of summer lush green bushes will form, which can be planted in a permanent place. Seedlings are expected to flower next year.

To grow annuals that will please with flowers in the first year, seedlings are first grown. To do this, at the end of March, the seeds are sown in sandy-peat soil to a depth of 5 mm. The earth is sprayed with water and the boxes are covered with foil. They are kept at a temperature of +20…+22°C. Regularly remove condensate from the shelter, and spray the crops. Shoots appear in 10-15 days, after which the shelter is removed. When the seedlings grow 2 true leaves, they dive into boxes with a distance of 3-5 cm or into separate peat pots. In early May, on warm sunny days, seedlings are taken out for several hours outside or on a balcony for hardening.

Vegetative propagation

Perennial rudbeckia can be propagated by dividing the bush. This procedure is even necessary for plants older than five years. In early spring or mid-autumn, the bush is dug up and taken apart by hand. Horizontal underground processes are cut with a blade. The resulting small divisions are immediately planted in a new place with fresh earth in shallow pits. The distance between them depends on the variety and is 25-40 cm.

Landing and care

Rudbeckia seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of May. The plant is unpretentious to the composition of the soil, but needs bright light. For him, choose open sunny or slightly shaded areas. Dig up the ground before planting. Sand and crushed stone are added to heavy clay soils, and dolomite flour or chalk is added to acidic soils. To increase fertility, the earth is mixed with compost.

Plants are planted in shallow pits at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In warm sunny weather, adaptation will pass quickly without additional effort. On cloudy, cold days during the week, rudbeckia is covered with lutrasil at night. After planting, the soil is compacted, watered and mulched with compost to a height of up to 8 cm.

Care for rudbeckia in the open field is simple. The plant should be watered regularly so that the soil does not dry out too much, but also does not swamp. Watering is carried out by sprinkling in the morning or evening hours.

Near young plants, you need to regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds. High varieties are tied up in a timely manner. From gusts of wind and heavy rain, the stems can break.

In early spring, the bushes are fed with complex mineral fertilizer. On poor soils, at the end of May, a mixture of nitrophoska with potassium sulfate is additionally added. In summer, top dressing is carried out with a solution of rotted manure.

As the flowers fade, the inflorescences are cut back to the first leaf. So you can stimulate a longer and more abundant flowering, as well as prevent self-seeding. In autumn, the ground part dries up and is cut to the very roots. In central Russia, for the winter, the soil is covered with fallen leaves and spruce branches. In winter, it is worth throwing more snow on the flower bed. In the spring, the shelter is removed and grooves are dug to drain the melt water.

Large yellow, orange or reddish daisies over openwork green vegetation look very impressive. They can be planted in groups in the middle of a lawn, along a curb or fence. A bright golden spot will always attract attention. In a mixed flower garden, rudbeckia is combined with ageratum, chrysanthemum, aster, lobelia, echinacea, monarda, chamomile and lobularia. Flowers look good cut and last a long time in a vase.

The roots and herb of rudbeckia have medicinal properties. Even the Indians of North America with its help got rid of colds, tonsillitis and sore throat. Outwardly, decoctions are used to heal wounds, treat vaginitis and inflammation of the uterus. Also, taking a decoction inside increases stress resistance and relieves fatigue.

If you look at the photo of rudbeckia, you can decide that this is a chamomile, only a bright yellow color. For most beginner flower growers, rudbeckia, planting and caring for which does not cause absolutely no difficulties, is a real find. And the variety of varieties and the long flowering of the culture make it possible to widely use these bright "suns" in landscape design.

Description of rudbeckia: varieties and varieties

Rudbeckia perennial has about 40 varieties. Almost all of them are unpretentious and take root well. Rudbeckia flowers, depending on the variety, have many shades of yellow and orange. This flower prefers sunny places on the site, however, it feels quite confident in a light shade.

Common varieties of perennial rudbeckia:

• Rudbeckia hybrid. It can reach a height of 70 cm. Its flowers resemble a large chamomile with a convex core. Shades range from yellow to red-brown. Rudbeckia hybrid blooms from mid-summer to autumn.

Rudbeckia hybrid

• Rudbeckia dissected. The tallest member of the species. Reaches a height of two meters. It is also considered the most unpretentious. It is characterized by long flowering, which lasts from mid-summer until the very first frost. The inflorescences of the dissected rudbeckia are bright yellow, reed, tubular, arranged in 3 or more rows.

Rudbeckia dissected

• Rudbeckia glossy. Another tall variety of rudbeckia. Large flowers up to 12 cm in diameter will decorate your flower garden from mid-summer to early October.

Rudbeckia glossy

• Rudbeckia hairy. Grows up to 1 meter in height. Double orange and golden flowers will delight you from mid-summer until the first frost.

Rudbeckia hairy

• Rudbeckia is brilliant. The height of the plant reaches 80 cm. It blooms throughout the second half of summer with lush inflorescences of dark purple or orange.

Rudbeckia brilliant

Planting a plant

It is possible to sow rudbeckia with seeds immediately in open ground in May, and in the northern regions in June. And although rudbeckia is undemanding to the soil and can live even on clay soils, it is best to fertilize the bed for sowing. So your flowers will grow more willingly and magnificently. Having scattered the planting material on the prepared area, it is sprinkled on top with a thin layer of earth and lightly sprinkled with water. By the fall, the rudbeckia will rise, and the seedlings can dive into permanent beds. If you sowed rudbeckia in the place of its permanent habitat immediately, then flowering can be expected as early as next year.

Rudbeckia seeds

You can also sow seeds at home or in a greenhouse for seedlings in April. And at the end of May, when the probability of returning frosts is low, seedlings can be planted in the beds.

Advice. When transplanting rudbeckia from a greenhouse or pot into a garden, make sure that the planting depth is the same as it was in the container.

plant care

Rudbeckia is a persistent and non-capricious plant, therefore, for its cultivation, it is quite enough to observe the simplest conditions. To care for flowers you need:

Fertilizer and fertilizing rudbeckia

Rudbeckia responds well to fertilizers. It is necessary to carry out top dressing twice a season. The first feeding is necessary for plants at the beginning of growth, when the root system has already developed a little. Well suited complex mineral fertilizers. For example, you can dilute 1 tbsp. l. Agricola on a bucket of warm water. At least 3 liters of solution must be added for each square meter.

For better development, rudbeckia needs to be fed.

Feed again after 20 days. For the second time, a solution of 1 tbsp is better. l. nitrophoska and 1 tbsp. l. Ross fertilizer on a bucket of water. Consumption is the same as for the first feeding.

Reproduction of rudbeckia

In addition to seed propagation, this flower can be propagated by division. It is recommended to divide rudbeckia bushes every five to six years. Long growing in one place, this flower gives abundant shoots. Large rudbeckia bushes must be dug up and carefully divided into pieces. Delenki land on the garden, keeping a distance.

When planting, leave enough space between the rudbeckia bushes

Propagation of rubdecia, whether you are dividing a bush or transplanting young shoots, is best done before the plant enters the phase of active development. Early spring or autumn is suitable for this, after the plant has finally faded.

Diseases and pests

Rudbeckia is practically not susceptible to diseases. It is extremely rare to encounter powdery mildew. This disease manifests itself by forming a white coating on the leaves and stems, resembling flour. In order to fight the culture is sprayed with a one percent solution of colloidal sulfur. You can treat damaged bushes with a solution of copper sulfate. For 10 liters of water you need 80 g of vitriol.

powdery mildew

There are cases when the plant is damaged leaf nematode. It is expressed by the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, which subsequently die off. Against nematodes, it is best to use special preparations that can be purchased at the store. If the treatment does not help, remove the damaged bush and burn it, and treat the place where it grew with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Advice. Rudbeckia should be checked regularly for leaf-eating insects.

In general, this flower rarely gets sick and is damaged by pests if it is cared for.

Rudbeckia perennial: combination with other plants

When planting rudbeckia in combination with other plants, the considerable dimensions of the bush must be taken into account. After all, some varieties of rudbeckia can reach two meters in height, which can create a shadow and harm some light-loving plants.

Rudbeckia in a country flower bed

Rudbeckia perennial in landscape design

In landscape design, rudbeckia can be used anywhere. It will perfectly decorate a country-style garden, creating ease wherever this flower is planted, even at the fence, even against the backdrop of buildings or along garden paths and sidewalks.

Yellow daisies are always appropriate in any mixborder. Tall varieties that need a tie are best planted in the background so that they can be discreetly covered by lower crops. In autumn, asters and chrysanthemums will look spectacular with rudbeckia. No less original composition can be made with purple echinacea. You can add variety to landscape design by planting rudbeckia along with cereals, which will add lightness to the composition, and rudbeckia flowers will take on the role of a bright spot.

Rudbeckia in landscape design

Growing rudbeckia in the garden is a real pleasure, because you still need to look for such unpretentious and easy-to-care flowers that easily grow in open ground. These plants are unusually good both in the beds and in the cut. And the duration of flowering will allow you to take vivid photos in the garden even in the midst of autumn, when many crops have already faded.

Rudbeckia perennial: video

Varieties of rudbeckia: photo

Rudbeckia - a native of North America - has long and successfully taken root in our summer cottages, making the flower beds elegant and festive. Its varieties can be grown as annuals and perennials. It belongs to the genus Rudbeckia to the Asteraceae family. For the dark center, the Americans call her "Black-eyed Susanna." Although the second name - "Sun Hat" - suits her better.

Botanical description of a flower

Perennial rudbeckia grows from 50 cm to 2 m. A long, strong stem crowns a flower resembling a camomile. Its warm, bright colors are pleasing to the eye from mid-summer until October. Petals collected in a basket or cup can be bright yellow, orange, red-brown. There are flowers of double color - dark in the middle and light towards the tips of the petals. The inflorescence itself can be up to 15 cm in diameter.

Rudbeckia does not require much attention, for which it is loved by gardeners. In one place, it can grow up to 5 years.

The most common types, varieties of rudbeckia and photos of flowers

In total, the genus Rudbeckia has about 40 species. In culture, it began to be used to decorate gardens and parks in the 17th century. Therefore, breeders have already worked hard on the plant and bred many hybrid varieties.

Rudbeckia hairy (Rudbeckia hirta)

It can be grown as an annual and perennial plant. Meter stems are simple and bushy, pubescent. The leaves are large, oval, sessile. They are pubescent and strongly indented along the edge. The petals of the flower are reed-shaped and yellow, the tubular ones can be painted gray-purple. The most popular varieties:

• Goldflamme;
• Indian summer;
• marmalade;
• Goldstrum.

They do not grow above 60 cm, and Goldflamme has a completely miniature height - about 25 cm. Their inflorescences are simple, no more than 10 cm.

Photo. Rudbeckia hairy

Rudbeckia clasping (Rudbeckia amplexicaulis)

It grows up to 80 cm, the leaves are bare, oval in shape, ending in a pointed apex. Their edges have thin teeth. Bright yellow reed petals rise on a three-centimeter receptacle. The middle is dark brown.

Rudbeckia bicolor (Rudbeckia bicolor)

A bushy variety with a height of 25 to 70 cm. The shape of the leaves is lanceolate, the stem is pubescent. The flowers are small - 6-8 cm, the petals grow in two rows. Color is bright yellow and orange. The receptacle is convex, up to 2 cm. The tubular petals are very dark, almost black.

Rudbeckia brilliant, or radiant rudbeckia (Rudbeckia fulgida)

Refers to perennial species. It grows up to 60 cm. The leaves are long and narrow, the inflorescences are up to 9 cm. The ligulate petals are orange-yellow to the tips, and the tubular ones are dark purple. The most famous varieties:

• Holsturm;
• Goldstar.

Photo. Rudbeckia brilliant

Rudbeckia triloba (Rudbeckia triloba)

Unlike its relatives, rudbeckia triloba does not bloom for long. This is a rather tall plant - up to 140 cm. The lower leaves are three-lobed, the stem ones are oval, dark green. The flowers are yellow, the middle is dark brown.

Photo. Rudbeckia triloba

Western Rudbeckia (Rudbeckia occidentalis)

A very original rudbeckia, completely devoid of reed petals. The middle of the flower is black, cone-shaped, surrounded by green bracts. She can look great in a bouquet. Height - 120-150 cm. The creators called it "Black Beauty". It appeared on our market only in 2002.

Photo. Rudbeckia western

Rudbeckia dissected (Rudbeckia laciniata)

The giant flower can grow up to 2 meters. Its appearance is very different from other rudbeckia. It has a spherical flower, up to 10 cm in diameter. Reed petals grow in several rows. The most popular variety is the Golden Ball. Color - bright yellow. Tubular petals are green.

Photo. Rudbeckia dissected

Rudbeckia glossy (Rudbeckia nitida)

It grows up to 2 meters, the inflorescence is up to 12 cm in diameter, the marginal petals are bright yellow, they grow on a very prominent cone-shaped bed. Tubular petals are green. The most effective varieties:

• Herbston;
• Goldshire.

Rudbeckia giant (Rudbeckia maxima)

A large plant with large bluish leaves. Inflorescences consist of yellow reed and dark tubular petals. Long stand in the cut, resistant to frost and drought.

Photo. Rudbeckia giant

Rudbeckia hybrid (Rudbeckia hybrida)

Under this name, they combine a whole group of varieties of glossy, hairy and dissected rudbeckia. Hybrids are distinguished by a huge inflorescence - up to 19 cm. Their reed petals can be up to 14 cm long. Usually they are yellow-brown in color. Tubular petals are purple. The most commonly used varieties are:

• Gloriosa Daisy;
• Double Daisy.

They are tall, bushy with large inflorescences. Coloring can be monophonic or variegated.

Photo. Rudbeckia hybrid

White Swan

This is a unique variety with white flowers. The variety is distinguished not only by beauty but also by cold resistance. Fits perfectly in any flower bed.

Photo. Rudbeckia white swan

Growing perennial rudbeckia from seeds in open ground

From seeds, you can grow perennial rudbeckia immediately in a flower bed, or you can first seedlings in a greenhouse, at home or in open ground.

Planting seeds

Seeds are sown in open ground in the second half of June. They are placed in prepared soil at a distance of 15 cm from each other. From above they fall asleep with a small layer of earth and spray abundantly. By autumn, rosettes will appear in the garden, which need to be planted away so that they do not interfere with each other. Rudbeckia will begin to bloom only next year. But on the other hand, it will bloom earlier than flowers planted in a seedling garden.

Important! Rudbeckia seeds can be harvested after flowering, or you can use its self-seeding ability. Seeds that have sprouted by themselves just need to be thinned out, and not dealt with like weeds.

Rudbeckia grows well in slightly acidic soil, fertile, light, well-retaining moisture and breathable. Clay soil can be slightly diluted with sand, in any case, add compost when digging.

Seedling

For growing rudbeckia for seedlings, seeds are planted in the month of March

You can grow rudbeckia and seedlings. To do this, the seeds are planted in late March - early April. Seeds are laid out in a container on the surface of the substrate, sprinkled with a thin layer of earth and sprayed. The container is covered with foil or glass. Growing temperature 20-22°. Seedlings need to be moistened periodically.

Important! Make sure that there is no condensation on the film or on the glass.

In the stage of the first two leaves, they need to be seated at a greater distance from each other so that they are free. After the seedlings grow a little, they begin to harden. Daily air baths will make seedlings stronger and less susceptible to bad weather.

When and how to plant seedlings in open ground

You can plant seedlings in flower beds at the end of May. Despite the resistance of some varieties of rudbeckia to bad weather, in the event of a protracted spring, it is better to save young shoots. In cold weather, flowerbeds with it are covered with agrospan until the seedlings are well rooted in open ground. After that, you can no longer worry about the plant - now the low temperature is not afraid of it.

The planting scheme should be such that large flowers are not crowded in the flower bed. It is better to plant tall varieties at a distance of 70 cm, those that are lower - at a distance of 30-40 cm. It is important to remember that when transplanting seedlings into open ground, you need to maintain the planting depth that was previously in the container.

Important! To make the flowers comfortable and have enough nutrients in the soil, the ground under them is mulched with a thick layer (up to 10 cm) of compost.

You can not transplant rudbeckia during the growth period

Perennial rudbeckia grows in one place from 3 to 5 years. When a bush grows too long in one place, it begins to clog the space around itself with a large number of daughter flowers and it gradually becomes crowded. Rudbeckia is a rhizomatous plant, it can be planted with pieces of root. To do this, the plant is dug up, the root is divided into several parts. Each delenka is planted in a separate prepared hole.

Important! You can not transplant rudbeckia during a period of active growth. This should be done in early spring or autumn after flowering.

Methods for propagating rudbeckia and caring for it in the open field

Rudbeckia reproduces in only two ways - by seeds and by dividing the rhizome. Both methods are described above in the previous chapters.

An unpretentious plant will not require much time from you. She calmly tolerates irregular watering and bad weather.

Important! The older the plant, the more it reacts to autumn frosts.

It is desirable for her to take a sunny and calm place in the garden. Rudbeckia tolerates light shade well.

Water rudbeckia as needed. It is desirable to apply fertilizers during the growth period, but it is better not to abuse them before flowering. In principle, rudbeckia can do without top dressing.

During flowering, faded flower heads should be constantly cut off to stimulate a new wave of flowering. Tall varieties must be tied up, especially in a windy area.

Problems in growing flowers, diseases, pests and methods of control

Due to poor care, rudbeckia can weaken and become vulnerable to fungal diseases or pests. Healthy flowers get sick very rarely. If a white, loose coating appears on the ground parts of the plant, then the flower is sick with powdery mildew. It should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate (80 g per 10 liters of water).

Brown spots on the leaves indicate the defeat of the nematode. Fighting it is washed away only in perennial plants. A one- or two-year-old plant is simply removed and the area around it is carefully disinfected. For perennials, you can use Nemagon or Bazamid.

From caterpillars and from other harmful insects that gnaw the leaves of rudbeckia, insecticides are used.

Important! Follow the rules of agricultural technology, and your favorite flower will always be healthy!

Rudbeckia after flowering

The flowering period is long - two to three months. When it ends, the plant produces seeds. You need to let them dry a little right on the flower. Wear a cotton glove to keep them from spilling while picking. Seeds are taken from the very center of the flower.

This is what the seeds of the rudbeckia plant look like

After collecting, lay them out on paper and dry them to the end in a well-ventilated area.

wintering plants

Perennial rudbeckia winters well in the ground under the snow; there is no need to dig it out for the winter. For greater confidence in its safety, you can cover the flowers with spruce branches, a layer of humus or simple fallen foliage. Before shelter, all ground parts of the plant are completely cut off.

Rudbeckia and echinacea what is the difference between these plants

Differences between rudbeckia and echinacea in color and bracts

Once upon a time, back in the 18th century, Carl Linnaeus, studying the flora of the North American prairies, attributed these two plants to the same genus - rudbeckia. A little later, a few decades later, another botanist, Minkh, divided these plants and placed echinacea purpurea in a separate genus.

Indeed, their habitat is the same, they are also similar in structure - the difference is that the petals of echinacea are red or crimson in color. The second difference is the bracts. In rudbeckia, they are soft, and in echinacea, they are hard and prickly (hence the name, which translates as “prickly”). And the third is that rudbeckia, unlike echinacea, does not have any medicinal properties.

The use of rudbeckia in garden landscaping

Rudbeckia is so diverse that its use in decorating a personal plot is universal. It is good to mask some places in the garden with high varieties, a beautiful border is obtained from undersized varieties. It is good in single plantings, and surrounded by other flowers. Due to the bright colors, rudbeckia can be the center of the composition. It goes great with colors such as:

• chrysanthemums and asters;
• echinacea and monarda;
• garden chamomile and ornamental grasses.

Rudbeckia goes well with other plants and flowers in the garden

When choosing a company for rudbeckia, one should not forget that it can grow to gigantic sizes. It is better to plant next to her those flowers that calmly tolerate the shadow that will fall from rudbeckia.

It is good to plant it as a "backstage" in the background of the composition, so that the flowers growing in front slightly cover the tied long stems of rudbeckia.

Perennial rudbeckia belongs to the Astrov family, native to North America. For its appearance, the flower received other names - "Black-eyed Susanna" and "Sun Hat". Among the numerous species and varieties, there are annual and perennial representatives. The plant grows well not only in flower beds and flower beds, but also in ordinary household plots.

Perennial species of rudbeckia can grow in one area for more than five years. The height of the flower stem can reach two meters, and the chamomile-like inflorescence is about fifteen centimeters in diameter. The active phase of flowering lasts from mid-summer to early October. Rudbeckia flowers are two-color and one-color, and the color scheme pleases with variety: red, yellow, orange shades. Flower growers love to grow this flower, as it is considered unpretentious and does not require special care and a lot of time.

Perennial plant species can be grown by seeds, sowing them immediately on open ground, but it can also be done in seedlings. For growing seedlings, both home conditions, and greenhouses, and open beds on the land are suitable.

Planting seeds in open ground

When planting seeds, rudbeckia will begin to bloom only next year. If you did not have time to collect the seeds of rudbeckia after the end of flowering, then it will continue to exist by self-sowing. In this case, it is not necessary to destroy densely sprouted plants. They will continue to develop beautifully if you just thin out the young shoots in time.

It is recommended to plant the collected seeds in open ground around the end of June. The soil in the beds should be slightly acidic, loose, breathable, fertile. It is good if such soil is able to retain moisture. If there is soil with a high content of clay on the land plot, then it is worth adding a little sand and compost when digging.

Planting holes for rudbeckia seeds must be prepared at a distance of at least fifteen centimeters from each other. Having planted the seeds in moistened soil, sprinkle them on top with a small layer of soil and water abundantly with a sprinkler. In September, flower rosettes will appear, which it is advisable to plant away from each other so that they do not interfere with the growth and development of their close neighborhood.

Planting seeds for seedlings

To grow rudbeckia from seedlings, seeds must be planted in special containers around mid-spring. A soil mixture is poured onto the bottom of the prepared container, then the seeds are laid out, and then again a layer of soil (no more than one centimeter thick). Be sure to then moisten the soil surface with a sprayer and cover with glass or transparent plastic wrap. The air temperature in the room where the containers are located should be at least 20-22 degrees. Spraying should be regular and moderate.

Young seedlings are transplanted at a greater distance from each other as they grow, but not before the first 2-3 leaves appear. Free space contributes to the rapid and high-quality development of seedlings. It is recommended to use the hardening procedure, which will help young plants survive the vagaries of the weather and temperature changes in the future. Air baths are needed as hardening procedures.

Flower beds and flower beds can be planted with rudbeckia seedlings around the last week of May. The weather by this time should already be warm, and the soil should be well warmed up. This is of great importance for still immature plants, and especially for individual species and varieties that will not survive low temperatures or night frosts.

During the rooting period of rudbeckia seedlings, it is necessary to monitor the weather forecast and in case of unforeseen drops in air temperature, it is better to cover the plants (for example, from agrospan). After rooting, no cooling of rudbeckia is no longer dangerous.

The distance between the planting holes depends on the plant variety. For tall ones, it is better to leave at least 70 centimeters, and for low flowers, 30-40 centimeters will be enough. The planting depth of seedlings should match the growing depth of the plant in the container. This is a prerequisite for the full further development of rudbeckia.

For favorable growth and good nutrition, as well as to create comfortable conditions for development, the soil in flower beds must be covered with a mulch layer consisting of rotted compost (approximately 10 centimeters thick).

Rudbeckia transplant

Plant transplantation is recommended in March or September-October, but in no case during the period of active growth and flowering. Rudbeckia, which grew in one place for 4-5 years, turns into a large bush with numerous daughter flowers. They interfere with each other and transplanting such a plant is simply vital.

First you need to carefully dig out the entire bush, then divide its rhizome into several parts and plant each part in a separate planting hole.

Rudbeckia can be propagated by seed and rhizome division.

The plant is considered unpretentious, you do not have to spend a lot of time caring for it. Dry weather and untimely watering are not terrible for him. With age, rudbeckia begins to react negatively to frosts that appear in the autumn.

It is advisable to choose a site for growing rudbeckia in a place where the sun is most of the time, and wind and drafts appear in minimal quantities. A small and short shading will not harm the plant.

Watering is carried out only as the soil dries up, an excess of moisture is undesirable.

Rudbeckia develops well without additional dressings, but at the initial stage of plant development, fertilizers for flowering plants can be applied.

Rudbeckia varieties that grow more than one meter high must be tied up so that the stems of the plant are not damaged under their weight or from gusts of wind.

Rudbeckia after flowering

After a long two and three months of flowering, rudbeckia produces seeds. It is necessary to give them time to dry right in the inflorescences, and then carefully collect them with a cotton glove. After harvesting, the seeds should be laid out on paper and left in a room with good air circulation until completely dry.

wintering plants

Rudbeckia perennial varieties need to be prepared for wintering. First, it is recommended to completely cut off all above-ground parts of the flower bush, and then build a cover for the root part from fallen leaves, spruce branches or humus.

• Tall varieties of rudbeckia mask unsightly areas in the garden.
• Low grades are used for border and flower arrangements.
• All types and varieties of rudbeckia are perfectly combined with other flowers and with all plants in the flower garden.

Diseases, pests and other growing problems

As soon as significant violations appear in the rules for caring for a plant, rudbeckia immediately becomes weak, vulnerable and pests, and diseases begin to attack it from all sides at the same time.

Powdery mildew is identified by a white coating on the underside of the plant. You can cure a flower by spraying with a solution prepared from 10 liters of water and 80 grams of copper sulfate.

The nematode is identified by brown spots on the leaves. If the plant belongs to annual or biennial species, then it is desirable to remove it completely so that the disease does not spread to other representatives of the flora. Perennial types of rudbeckia affected by a nematode must be treated with special preparations (for example, Nemagon, Bazamid).

When pests appear that feed on the leafy part of plants (for example, caterpillars), it is recommended to treat with insecticidal preparations.

Perennial rudbeckia - an unpretentious plant for the garden (video)