I was inspired to write this article not only by the need to answer a question frequently asked by site visitors. There is also a personal motive: to my surprise, I have noticed more than once how even professional installers with experience (!) stepping on the same rake- they make mistakes that are unforgivable for them, simply not observing a certain sequence of actions in the process of fixing a balcony block. What can we say about non-professionals? In general, there are no special instructions for this. They are not needed. You just need to take your time, strain your brain a little, turn on the logic. Or you can just read this article. I hope my advice on this topic will be useful to someone.

I am not going to describe in detail all the nuances of installing a balcony block, because this topic is quite extensive and worthy of a full-fledged video course, which I plan to record in the foreseeable future. Now I just want to tell home masters (and not only home masters) what typical mistakes are possible when installing a plastic balcony block and how to proceed in order to avoid these mistakes.

What kind of errors are we talking about?

The design of the balcony block

First of all, let's look at the design of the balcony block, for example - the most widespread, consisting of two parts:

It is clear that this is not just a window. This is a design from two(in this case) products: frames and frames connected to each other immediately before installation in the opening. I'm talking about exactly, meaning that the double-glazed windows and sashes were removed from them and set aside while the structure was being installed in the opening. By the way, another mandatory element in the balcony block is the connector. Its purpose is to keep the connected parts of the balcony block in the same plane. Each profile type has its own connector configuration and size. But it's not about that now.

So, we are dealing with two independent plastic products, each of which could fully function in a separate opening: a window in a window, a door in a door. But now they are rigidly screwed to each other and form a single structure - a balcony block.

In everyday life, rarely anyone uses such a name - "balcony block". More often you can hear "balcony" or just "window". In order not to combine and confuse concepts, further in the text I will call this entire construction as a whole balcony block, and its components are door And buckle. Perhaps "fastening" sounds a little strange. For some people, it's more common to use "capercaillie", "kopeck piece" or simply "window", but let's not get distracted by discussions. The essence of the name will not change. Also, please do not judge me strictly if instead of a long correct the term "frame side profile" I will write "stand" - briefly and, in principle, understandable.

Requirements for installing a balcony block

Of course, you know that any plastic window, including a window unit must be leveled:

horizontally

vertically

The diagonals must also be aligned:

Door diagonals

Diagonal fasteners

This is a fundamental requirement when installing plastic windows, and this is the first thing to be observed!

Further. The door and the fastener are rigidly connected to each other, but, nevertheless, the line of their joint is a critical point of the balcony block, and here during the installation process we can mistakenly make a slight break in the structure, which, having a negative effect on the external and internal decoration, may violate the tightness joint, and it will just look ugly:

Hence the second requirement: all elements of the balcony block - both the door and the fastening - must be in the same plane!

If the balcony opening has quarters, then the next requirement is to provide the gap between the plastic structure and the quarters is at least 10 mm along the entire perimeter of the opening!

And finally, the last important requirement: between the design of the window block and the walls of the opening, an assembly gap of at least 25 mm is left! It is desirable that the gaps on the sides and top are the same. Don't forget that under the frame, the gap must be at least 30 mm- correction for the thickness of the window sill and threshold:

So, we have got such a list of the most important requirements that must be met when installing a balcony block:

• set the balcony block in level, align the diagonals;
• install structural elements (door and fastening) in the same plane;
• ensure a gap between the frame and a quarter of at least 10 mm along the entire perimeter of the opening;
• ensure the mounting gap between the frame and the opening at the top and sides of at least 25 mm, at the bottom - at least 30 mm.

Common Mistakes

For installers of PVC windows, the above is not news. They know this as well as twice or two, but, alas, it is not always possible to fulfill all four conditions at the same time. Most often, the stumbling block is the second and third points of this list. Why? Let me name the main reasons:

1. Before you start fixing the balcony block (drilling holes and installing anchors), they usually take a level and preliminarily set the door and fastener along the "horizon" (in the horizontal plane), simultaneously raising the block to such a height that the lower and upper gaps are optimally set. It is commendable. At the same time, they set the gap between the side quarter and the door frame, holding it vertically in level (this is also correct). After that, they immediately begin to fasten this side rack of the door frame to the wall of the opening. Here is the first mistake! But what about the rest of the racks on the door and fastening? After all, they also need to first check the gap to a quarter, holding it in a vertical (level) position. Wherein ( important!) the upper gap between the profile and the quarter should be (at least visually) along the entire width of the structure and have a value, and the gaps in the lower corners (between the profile and the quarter) do not need to be aligned with each other, just make sure that they are not less than 10 mm ( allowed minimum). If the quarters are crooked and do not lie in the same plane (typical for our houses), then it is quite possible that one side of the balcony block fits perfectly, and the other, with the same upper gap, cannot stand vertically in level, since the lower corner rests on a quarter protruding there. So you have to move the entire structure further from the quarter. And how to do this evenly for the entire balcony block, if one edge of it has already been tacked to the opening in a hurry?
2. The second mistake: some fasten the door first, then the fastener (or vice versa). Why is it bad? Firstly, the situation described above is possible: due to crooked quarters, one of the corners of the frame, which will be attached last, will rest against a quarter when installing the vertical. Secondly, prematurely installed upper anchors (or screws) will not allow the balcony block structure to be moved to the right or left, if it suddenly turns out at the final stage that the side mounting gaps differ markedly from each other in size (view from the side of the room) or right and left block edges uneven drowned quarters (view from the street).
3. The third mistake is again the result of an incorrect sequence of actions: first of all, they attach the sides (the extreme sidewall of the door and the extreme sidewall of the fastener), then they fasten the second sidewall of the door (the one that fits with the fastener), and for some reason they start from the bottom corner, aligning the bottom "quarter-frame" gaps, without even thinking that the side quarters of the doorway may differ from each other in thickness, in particular, along the bottom. When, finally, it comes to fastening the last upper corner of the door (where the door and fasteners meet), then a dilemma appears: either set the middle of the block vertically in level, but the upper edge of the structure will break, or set the upper edge exactly in line, but not there will be a vertical in the middle. And it won’t work (!), because the lower corner of the door, as it turned out, was not fixed in place.
4. Well, and one more mistake: when installing anchors, some, in a hurry, immediately sink them into the profile to the very hat, and even immediately tighten them. And if later you suddenly need to move the structure to the right and left? And how to set the diagonals? In general, this is a solvable problem: the anchor can be loosened and, grabbing the sleeve with pliers, after suffering a little, pull it out of the wall to the desired distance. Sometimes, however, you have to suffer thoroughly. Why make life so difficult for yourself?

However, enough already to talk about other people's (and their own, by the way, including) mistakes. It's time to move from words to deeds. I'm going to share my experience.

How to fix a balcony correctly

I'll start from the moment when the construction of the balcony block is assembled (the fastener frame is screwed to the door frame) and stands on the sidelines, waiting in the wings.

Looking ahead, I’ll immediately explain the principle according to which a balcony block, no matter how many sections it consists of, can be easily put into a single plane: first of all, we fix the upper edge of the structure, then from the top we set all the frame racks to the vertical level, and we fix the lower corners. Simple and effective way!

Again, looking ahead, I will show you the procedure for fixing the balcony block in the opening, i.e. In what order are the anchors (screws) placed? Look at the next picture. Here, red numbers indicate the main attachment points of the balcony block, and blue numbers indicate additional ones. The numbers themselves explain the sequence of installation of anchors (screws). It is especially important not to violate the order of fastening at the main points. Pay attention to them. Explanations will be below.

Before you start fixing the balcony frame, you need to find its exact position in the depth of the opening. In other words, we determine how far the frame will be from the inner and outer edges of the wall. Along the way, we will find out, relative to which edge of the wall - internal or external - it is best to align the line of the upper edge of the block.

If the opening has no quarters(a typical situation in private houses: wooden, brick, cast, cinder block, etc.), the installation process is somewhat simplified: in this case, you don’t have to look around for a quarter (there are none), which makes it easier to install all parts of the balcony: a) in one plane, b) by level. When installing in an opening without quarters, pay attention to the following points:

• we place the frame in the depth of the opening so that from it to the edge of the wall there is a distance of no more than 2/3 of the wall thickness;
• follow the order of installation of fasteners;
• We make sure that the side gaps on the left and right are approximately the same.

If the opening has quarters, we take a level, a tape measure and by the "poke method" we are looking for such a position of the block in the depth of the opening that would satisfy the following conditions:

1. the distance between the frame and the quarter in the narrowest places was at least 10 mm, and in the widest - no more than 35 mm (the latter is not necessary, I just recommend such a maximum, based on the fact that a gap of up to 35 mm is closed without problems with an inexpensive plastic corner 40x40 and / or PSUL tape with a maximum expansion of up to 40 mm);
2. the extreme points of the upper part of the frame (corners) were at an equal distance to the outer (or inner - at your discretion) edge of the wall;

A few words about the last condition. Alignment relative to the edge of the wall allows you to get when interior decoration correct the upper slope, in which the anterior and posterior contours are parallel to each other. This will be especially appreciated by those in whose apartment (house) there are not very deep openings: the more slopes, the more noticeable their curvature. However, there are walls so curved that their thickness within the opening can vary by several centimeters. The reason may be poor-quality masonry (in a brick house), and uneven thickness of the plaster, etc. For us, this is no longer important. It's just then that you have to solve the dilemma of which edge of the wall to focus on when leveling the top of the frame. Theoretically, it is more correct in this case to align with the outer edge, because when building a house, the alignment of the slabs (masonry) is done from the outside, and builders pay less attention to wall defects from the side of the room, because later they are masked with plaster, drywall, etc. etc., which is far from ideal. Therefore, my recommendation is to equal outdoor. However, following it, you need to understand that in the end our balcony will look Beautiful from the side of the street, but most likely ugly from the side of the room. So there can be no single solution here. By the way, a compromise is possible: not to be equal to either one or the other edge, but to choose some kind of middle direction, so to speak, golden mean. I think you have already caught my main idea: preparation for fasteners is a more important and responsible stage than the fastening of the balcony itself. As the saying goes, " Seven times measure cut once"Let's get started!

We will look for the correct position of the balcony in the opening, focusing on its three racks: two door pillars and an outer fastener post. Let's go through them in the order shown in the following figure:

1. Starting with end pillar of the door. We apply a level to it, align it and, holding it in a vertical position (we constantly control this by level), we remove it from the quarter so that the gap at its narrowest point is about 10 mm. When the desired position is found, we measure at the top the distance from the frame to the inner edge of the wall (v) and to the outer (n). We write down the obtained values ​​​​so that they are not forgotten in the bustle and do not have to repeat the measurement again.
2. We pass to the opposite edge of the opening to fastener end post. We expose its vertex relative to the inner and outer edges of the wall in accordance with the values ​​of v and n just written. If it turns out that the wall in this place has narrowed or, on the contrary, has become thicker, we set the top of the rack relative to some edge of the wall, which one: external or internal - we decide according to the situation ( as I said, the most reliable guide in such cases is the outer edge of the wall). Having exposed the top of the rack, we fix it (we just hold it in this position), and moving the bottom corner, we put the rack vertically in level. If this succeeded (the lower corner of the fastener did not rest against a quarter, and the gaps quarter-frame along the entire height of the racks correspond to the norm (at least 10 mm), we can proceed to the next step. Otherwise, we take this rack deeper into the opening in search of the position in which it, being located vertically in level, would be at least 10 mm away from the quarter. As soon as this position is found, we measure the distances from the frame to the inner and outer edges of the wall near the top of this post and save the obtained values ​​instead of the original v and n - those obtained on the door post. We delete the initial values, we no longer need them.
3. Let's go to second door pillar- the one that fits with the fastener. We expose its top relative to the edge of the wall at the same distance as the previous stand (n). By holding the top in place and moving only the bottom corner, we are trying to set the vertical. If this succeeded (the bottom corner did not end up against a quarter on the pedestal, and the gaps quarter-frame at the entire height of the racks are at least 10 mm), then we can begin to fix the balcony. Otherwise, we are doing the already familiar manipulations here: we take the rack deeper into the opening (away from a quarter) until the nominal gap is set quarter-frame with the stand upright. After that, do not forget to take a new measurement of v and n and update the previously recorded values.

The result of our actions on the above three points are two values ​​- the distance from the frame to inner edge And outer edge walls (v and n respectively). Actually, in the future we will need only one of these values. Let's use the outer margin n .

Fixing the balcony. First of all, we install anchors (screws) at the main attachment points according to the numbering:

But first, we set all frames (door and fastener) to a horizontal level, not forgetting the height of the upper (at least 25 mm) and lower (at least 30 mm) mounting gaps. We also set the entire block in the center relative to the side walls of the opening, so that:

1. side mounting clearances were approximately the same among themselves;
2. from the street side, the frame went beyond the side quarters approximately equally on the left and right.

Sometimes, due to the curvature and different widths of the quarters, it happens that it is not possible to complete both points. In this case, we are looking for some kind of compromise solution.

Now, finally, you can do the fasteners. Attachment point no. 1 (the upper extreme corner of the door) set the offset n (the distance from the frame to the outer edge of the wall) and install the first anchor (screw). Please note: until the anchor (screw) is hammered (not screwed in) to the end, its head does not reach the profile fold of 15-20 millimeters, so that a little later it would be possible to center the block completely in the opening without hindrance and align its diagonals. Align the door post vertically in level and install the anchor (screw) at point No. 2 .

Similarly, we fasten the opposite post - the extreme post of the fastener: set the distance n from above and fix the upper corner (point No. 3 ), install the rack vertically and fix the lower corner (point No. 4 ).

Before installing the next anchor (screw) at point No. 5 , we check if our block has moved to the left or right, if the gaps on the sides are the same. Due to the fact that the opening can be skewed, the equality of side clearances in the upper part of the opening does not guarantee their equality at the bottom of the opening. Therefore, now we set the extreme side posts of the block vertically (we apply the level to the profile) and finally center the entire structure relative to the side walls of the opening.

After that, we sink to the end of the anchor (screws) at points No. 1 and no. 3 and tighten them up. Now we apply a straight rail at least a meter long to the upper profile of the frame in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe junction of the door and fasteners (level, plastering right And lo) to align the top of the block in a straight line. If you have assistants, then with their help you can use a stretched lacing for alignment. Aligning the upper edge in this way, we fix this position at point No. 5 . We tighten the anchor (screw) immediately.

We expose the second door post vertically in level and fix point No. 6 . Next - point number 7 . We do not sink both anchors (screws) to the end and do not tighten them.

We attach the level to the fold of the second door pillar between points No. 5 and no. 7 and expose this part of the frame vertically. We sink the anchor (screw) at point No. 7 , but do not tighten yet.

We lower the level below and set the vertical in the area between points No. 6 and no. 7 . We sink the anchors (screws) to the end at points No. 6 and no. 2 , but also do not tighten yet.

We check the tightness of the installation of the support bar under the first pillar of the door frame and hang the door. Checking the door lock. In theory, if all parts of the frame are level, and the door itself is assembled with high quality, then the porch should be perfect around the entire perimeter of the door. But sometimes a small adjustment of the porch is still required with the help of wedges inserted into the gap between the door frame and the quarter in places where the door sealing rubber is not firmly attached to the frame. Essentially, we slightly we bend the frame profile, adjusting to the curvature of the door - the result of a clumsy installation of door reinforcement in the assembly shop. Of course, this way out of the situation is a little inconsistent with the strict principles of the technology for mounting PVC products, but, believe me, it is not dangerous for the structure itself and is fully justified, because by doing this we reduce the load on the locking mechanism, achieve softer operation and, therefore, we extend its resource.

We adjust the door fittings, achieving the optimal size backlash(distance between the folds of the sash and the frame), so that when the door is closed, its upper and lower corners on the side of the handle do not cling to the strikers. After that, we expose the clearance in the middle part of the door in the area of ​​​​the handle. We do this not with the adjusting screws of the fittings, but by pulling or, conversely, moving the middle part of the frame rack towards the door. It is for this reason that we left three anchors (screws) loose in the lower half of the door and fasteners. By unscrewing some of them and tightening others, we can shift the lower profile of the door and fasteners in the longitudinal direction, achieving an increase or decrease in the gap of interest to us. The essence of these manipulations can be understood from the following two figures:

We fix the achieved result by finally tightening the anchors (screws) at the points 2 , 6 , 7 , and 4 . It must be understood that moving the lower parts of the fastener frame and the door in the longitudinal direction directly affects their diagonals. Therefore, before the final tightening of these anchors (screws), I recommend using a tape measure to check the proportionality of the diagonals at the door and at the fastener. GOST allowed a small difference between the lengths of the diagonals, but it is desirable to minimize this error. Therefore, during the last manipulation, I recommend shifting the bottoms of the frames - a little each. Then the resulting error will be divided between them in half and will be less noticeable on each separately.

Next, we move on to additional attachment points. Here the anchors (screws) are immediately hammered (screwed) to the end and tightened. We start with the extreme door pillar. We install anchors (screws) at points No. 8 and no. 9 and, tightening them, we control that the profile stands in a straight line, does not bend. This can be done using a level, applying it alternately at three points and setting the vertical on each of the three segments individually:

We do the same with the extreme stand of the fastener, installing the anchor (screw) at point No. 10 , with the only difference that here we set the vertical on the segments:

Remaining anchors (screws) at points with No. 11 by no. 18 set randomly. No alignment is required. Just when tightening, we make sure that the hat does not pull the frame and does not knock down its horizontal level.

Balcony block is a door to exit to a balcony or loggia, complete with a window. Its installation is in many ways reminiscent, but it also has a number of features, so those who decide to do it on their own, first need to study the technology in detail. This task is quite difficult, and yet it can be done without the help of specialists, while saving a lot of money. Payment for installation reaches 15% of the cost of the unit itself, so refusing the services of masters is definitely beneficial.

In addition to the door and window, the design of the unit includes other elements necessary for its installation and normal operation. They are bought or ordered separately, and so that there are no problems during the installation process, it is better to prepare them in advance. These elements include:

• mounting plates;
• the so-called handle for a smoker, fixing the door in a half-closed position;
• two window sills with plugs installed on both sides of the window;
• mosquito net and canopies to it.

Installation of a balcony block yourself

The choice of material for the balcony block

Among the popular materials traditionally, three can be distinguished:

• metal-plastic;
• tree;
• aluminum.

The most common option is a plastic balcony block, the photos of which perfectly illustrate its attractive appearance. It is distinguished by durability, unpretentiousness and a relatively affordable price. Its only drawback is its “ignoble” origin, that is, the plastic itself is far from a natural material.

For lovers of "eco" aluminum and wood are suitable. The aluminum profile looks great from the side and allows you to increase the glazing area by using thinner frames. However, this metal has some problems with thermal insulation characteristics, and it costs more than PVC.

Wooden frames are a classic that never goes out of style. If earlier almost everyone wanted to install plastic windows, now it is wooden ones that are considered a sign of well-being. They cost more than PVC, but they are considered environmentally friendly and absolutely harmless.

We install the balcony block ourselves

Since it is metal-plastic blocks that are leading today in terms of the number of uses, it is their installation technology that will be described below.

Types of balcony blocks

Balcony blocks in typical houses usually have standard sizes, but their design may vary. There are four main types:

• standard- the simplest and cheapest type, which is widely used among balcony owners. Its main feature is the presence of a large blind window with continuous glazing. The upper part of the balcony door is glazed, and the lower part is sealed with plastic. Ventilation of the room is carried out by tilting the door, when a small gap opens on top. Thus, the door leaf can open and recline;
• block for insulated balcony or loggia provides for the opening of the window. At the same time, the glazing area is reduced, but it is possible to organize high-quality ventilation of the premises. The door in this case is both hinged and folding;
• Stalinist bloc- a special development for "stalinok", where the exit to the balcony and the window adjacent to it are narrower than the standard ones. The window in this case is hinged, the door is the same as the other types, only smaller in width. Tellingly, this design is more expensive than the "standards";
• glazed block- this is a combination of a door with glazing over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe canvas and a deaf solid window to the floor.

If desired, you can order other options, for example, make a window with a window, but any deviations from the standards require an additional charge.

To select the most suitable option, you can view pictures depicting certain designs.

Dimensions of balcony blocks

Despite the fact that balcony blocks have standard sizes, measurements must be taken before ordering them. Basically, all blocks consist of a door 2.1x0.7 and a window opening 1.4x1.2 m, but there may be exceptions. The dimensions of the balcony block in a panel house, as in a brick house, are standard, if the house itself is typical. Once again, it is worth noting that standard designs are cheaper.

Installing the block on the balcony

Measurements are best entrusted to representatives of the company in which the block is ordered. If you decide to do everything yourself, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances. All measurements are taken after preparation and cleaning of the opening surfaces. If necessary, they are leveled, the lower part is freed from the old window sill. After measurements, a sketch of the opening and the block is drawn, taking into account the places for anchors (indent from each side by 8 mm). Sketch features:

• separate designation of the width of the window and door;
• an indication of the type of windows (deaf, hinged, solid, divided into parts) and doors (with or without lower glazing, with an upper or lower slot).

When placing an order, you need to specify the total height of the block and separately windows, the total width of the block and separately windows and doors. With the help of regulatory documents regulating the standard dimensions of windows and doors, you can calculate a PVC balcony block in Khrushchev, in a Stalinist building or in another typical house.

Installation Tools

An experienced specialist can help in choosing the right tool, he will also give advice on the choice of additional fasteners and elements: mounting plates, window sills, smoker's handles, mosquito nets. All this can be included in the kit or purchased separately.

Dismantling of the existing unit

During a major overhaul or redevelopment, many apartment owners are trying to increase their living space through balconies or loggias, destroying them completely. But we must not forget that the block is placed in a load-bearing wall, and special permits are needed to dismantle it. There are also a number of rules that must not be violated with such an expansion of the room:

• the battery cannot be installed on the balcony - its transfer will disrupt the normal functioning of the heating system;
• even the dismantling of the block should not completely unite the balcony and the room; there should still be a partition or a sliding door between them;
• the height and width of the opening cannot be increased.

Installation of a balcony block

Installation or replacement of the block begins with the marking of the attachment points on the frames and on the walls. Fastenings are carried out with self-tapping screws. 0.2 m retreats from the edges, where 2 self-tapping screws will be placed, and 2 more between them. Thus, there will be 4 fasteners on each wall. Anchors with a thickness of 2 mm or more and wedges are used as fasteners.

The first step is to install the door. Its frame is fixed on anchors and leveled by knocking plastic wedges. To do this, use a hammer and screwdriver. After checking for distortions, the structure is finally attached to the walls with self-tapping screws. The window frame is installed in the same way. Then the canvas and accessories are fixed, the operation of the mechanisms is checked. Double-glazed windows are inserted into the frame and fixed with glazing beads, after which the latter are clogged with a rubber hammer.

Installation of a balcony block

The final stage is the installation of window sills. As you know, there are two of them: from the side of the balcony and from the side of the room. They are not always included in the package with a balcony block, so when buying it is important to choose the right size for yourself. According to the norms, the window sill cannot cover the heating battery by more than 1/3, so as not to disturb the normal circulation of heated air.

We blow out the gaps between the walls and the block with mounting foam

It starts with adjusting its dimensions, after which it is pressed against the groove shelf of the metal-plastic profile. Next, you need to level it. In order for the plate to take the desired position, foam is placed under it, rails are installed that fix it in the desired position. From above, it is pressed by an evenly distributed load. Mounting foam is blown into the resulting gap and left until completely solidified. Also, cracks around the entire perimeter of the block are filled with foam. This is followed by finishing the slopes, which it is advisable not to postpone for a long time.

Do-it-yourself installation of a balcony block

Installing a balcony block is a laborious and rather complicated task, but for those who decide to do it on their own, this is quite within their power. An important point in this case is the study of the regulatory framework. Documents that determine what a window block with a balcony door should be - GOST 11214-86 and GOST 23166-99. They contain a list of all the requirements for the construction of balcony blocks, their types, markings and standard dimensions. It is also indicated here that the standard sizes of windows depend not only on the size of the opening, but also on their type and the material from which they are made. In these standards, you can find the values ​​\u200b\u200bof the standard sizes of windows and openings, determined by their height and width.

Do-it-yourself installation of a balcony block, the video of the process of which will allow you to visually get acquainted with the technology, is quite within the power of everyone. Master classes provide an opportunity to assess in advance the scope of work and their complexity, and also show step-by-step installation instructions. Such preparation will certainly simplify installation and reduce the risk of errors during operation.

Preliminary work before installing the balcony block

A modern metal-plastic version of the balcony door and window creates a beautiful view and comfortable conditions. The installation of a balcony block consists of a number of simple operations, it requires attention to detail, but in general the process is simple. If desired, a person who does not have professional skills in this area can perform this work.

Balcony PVC block consists of a balcony door and a window. There are different variations of this combination. For example, a window is located to the right or left of a door. Possible option: a balcony door between two windows.
Each of the elements of the block can, in addition to the swing opening mechanism, also have a folding one. There are also blind windows that do not open.

The kit includes:

• slopes,
• low tide,
• threshold,
• windowsill,
• accessories.

If we consider what a balcony door consists of, this is a box and a door leaf. The window has a frame and sashes.

Preparatory work

You should free up space from unnecessary things and furniture so that you can install a new design, cover with a film what cannot be taken out of the room to avoid construction debris and dust.

To carry out the installation of a balcony block, you should prepare a place for it by dismantling the old structure.

• Remove window sashes and door panels.
• To remove the wooden frame, it should be sawn at the bottom with a hacksaw. After that, remove it in parts from the opening, prying it with a crowbar.
• Remove the plaster from the slopes, if any, using a perforator.
• Clean off the remains of seals, insulation, mounting foam from the surface of the opening using a brush.

If the previous design was also a metal-plastic balcony block, then its dismantling begins with the removal of all fasteners, screws, linings from the frame after removing the inside of the doors and windows.

The opening should be freed from finishing to the main wall.

Step-by-step installation of a balcony block

To work on installing a balcony door and window, you will need tools:

• Bulgarian,
• foam gun,
• jigsaw,
• roulette,
• screwdriver,
• level,
• perforator,
• rubber mallet.
• drill,
• stationery knife,
• hammer,
• square,
• marker,
• metal scissors,
• mount.

Assembling the balcony block

Before installing a plastic balcony block, you should connect the door structure and the window structure into one. To do this, it is necessary to put the window unit with the balcony door on the upper sides, dock the side parts. Between them should be placed connection bar. It is necessary to check well that the upper sides of the frames that are on the floor are in line. For this operation, you must select a flat surface.

Tip: If the window has a movable sash, it must be removed for convenience during installation. In the door balcony block, you need to remove the door from the hinges.

Two sets are connected with screws. For them, holes are made in advance at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other in the frame of the door block and the structures begin to twist from its inside. After that, a single balcony block is obtained.

Choosing fasteners

The balcony block can be attached using:

• pins,
• anchor plates,
• anchor bolts.

Each type of fastening has its own advantages and disadvantages and can be chosen for work.

Tip: Choose anchor plates for fastening. In this case, installation can be carried out without separating the frames and double-glazed windows.

Preparing the balcony block for installation

Mounting plates are fixed on the two side and upper horizontal surfaces of the frame. They are attached with screws. Fifteen centimeters recede from the corners of the structures and install the plates so that they are turned towards the inside of the block. Between the extreme plates it is necessary to attach the intermediate ones at a distance of 50 ÷ 70 cm from each other. Skip the screw in the middle of the block width into the profile recess.

A PSUL tape is glued around the perimeter of the block from the outer edge. This is a sealing element prescribed by the regulations in order to protect the mounting foam from moisture and ultraviolet rays.

If provided, at this stage brackets are screwed onto the window for its fastening. They try on the mesh so that it evenly covers the opening, mark the installation locations for the brackets and attach them with screws.

Mounting sequence

Consider how to install a balcony block with your own hands:

1. If the kit includes a threshold, then you can immediately begin the installation of the unit. If it is missing, you should start the installation with it.

   It is recommended to use plastic mounting wedges rather than wooden ones.

2. The block is placed on stands (mounting wedges), which remain in place after completion of work, are not removed. They are provided for each vertical element of the block. In order to orient the structure in space strictly vertically and horizontally (transverse elements), stands of different heights are used.
3. Temporary fixation in the opening is also done using mounting wedges.
4. Check the level of the correct location in the planes: horizontal and vertical. Wedges make error correction. They are convenient to use as a pair of elements. The building level is placed on the horizontal element of the block. If necessary, correct - wedges are knocked in the right direction with a hammer. After that, a level is applied to the vertical component of the block and its location is adjusted with wedges that are installed on the left and right between the block and the wall.
5. Now fix the block by fastening pre-prepared plates. They are carefully unbent and pulled up to the wall so as not to move the block adjusted in space. To fix the plate through the hole in one of them, a hole is drilled in the wall with a perforated drill, eight centimeters deep.
   

   Screw a screw into this hole with a screwdriver, attaching the plate to the wall. And so all the prepared mounting plates are sequentially fixed.

   

   Installing a low tide for an open balcony

   • From the ebb blank, a part is cut with scissors for metal along the intended line, which corresponds to the width of the window.
   • From the side of the balcony, a drain pattern is installed, screwed to the profile from the installation kit with screws.
   • On the outside of the window opening, you can optionally install decorative corners. The gaps in the connection between the drain and the wall are filled with sealant on both sides.

   Filling gaps with mounting foam

   

   In accordance with the regulations, the upper horizontal seam should not exceed twenty millimeters in width, and the side seams between the block and the wall can be up to fifty-five millimeters, depending on the size of the structure. From the side of the room it is necessary fill the gaps with mounting foam, leaving one third of the space free. This will be the technological gap that the foam will occupy after solidification and expansion.

   In order for the foam to pass all the necessary technological stages, the seams are left alone for a day. After that, the excess of hardened foam is cut off with a special knife. A high-quality seam should not have voids in its structure.

   Installing additional parts

   Do-it-yourself installation of a balcony block is almost complete. It remains to refine the details.

   Window sill device

   The window sill is adjusted in size so that it fits well under the window. Its width should allow it to be pushed two centimeters behind the window frame when installed.

   Pieces of wood should be made into bars, which are placed under the part to be installed in order to avoid its deflection. The bars are sized to provide a window sill angle of two degrees.

   A load is placed on the element, and then the joints are filled with mounting foam. The load is needed so that the hardening foam does not lift the structure.

   Filling the joints of the window sill:

   • first at the junction with the window,
   • sides,
   • under the windowsill at the junction with the wall, but not to the very edge.

   After a daily technological break, you can remove the load.

   
   

   Internal slopes

   The slopes on the balcony block can be plastered or a decorative detail can be installed - special internal slopes. Often the kit includes sandwich panels. They will make the appearance of the slopes modern and aesthetic, in addition, they will insulate the opening .. You will find the answer to it in our article.

   Tips for organizing lighting on the loggia. You will learn how to conduct electricity to choose the right fixtures.

   Sequence of work:

   1. The sections of the starting profile are prepared according to the size of the length of the upper frame and side surfaces.
   2. The blanks are fixed with screws around the perimeter of the block from three sides.
   3. Measure the required dimensions for the top panel and side parts.
   4. Cut out the panels to the desired size.
   5. The panels are inserted into the screwed starting profile, first the top part, and then the side elements.
   6. One edge of the panel is fixed in the profile, and under the part of the panel protruding into the room, a small amount of foam is sprayed into the gap between the element and the wall, slightly bending the structure and then pressing it into place against the wall. Until the foam hardens, the slopes at the design positions are held with masking tape. After a daily break, the adhesive tape is removed, the excess foam is cut off.

   Decorative architraves

   • Prepare platbands (F-profiles) of the required size.
   • The parts are put on the ends of the decorative panels; in the corners, a connection should be made at forty-five degrees.
   • The joints of the side and top panels, as well as the bottom of the side decorative elements with the window sill, are sealed with silicone sealant.
   
   

   Installation of a balcony block video

   Here is a video on the topic of our article on how to install a balcony block yourself. In it you will find useful tips from professionals.

Balcony block - a design that consists of a window and a balcony door. Balcony blocks are installed both in the kitchen and in separate rooms of the apartment. Most often they are made of PVC profile, they can be aluminum, less often - wooden. Depending on the characteristics of the room, balcony blocks are typical or non-standard options.

The main stages of work when installing a balcony block

Wanting to save money, many take up the installation of a balcony block on their own. In fairness, it should be noted that there really is nothing complicated here. But there are many nuances, ignorance or incorrect implementation of which leads to sad results. The leading characteristics of even a high-quality design are reduced to nothing. Of course, that a professional will do it better than even the most stubborn and meticulous amateur.

Installation of a balcony block is carried out according to the following scheme:

• dismantling of the old block. The opening sashes are removed from the hinges, the glass is removed from the deaf sashes, the window sill is dismantled, the ebbs are removed, the frames are removed from the hinges, the slopes are dismantled, the insulation is removed;
• preparation of windows and doors. Debris removal, surface leveling;
• joining door and window frames. To do this, the moving parts are removed from the hinges, a connecting strip is placed between the door and window frame, a tunnel is drilled from the side of the door in the end part of the frame, fasteners are inserted and tightened, they are closed with plugs, a sealing tape is glued around the perimeter;
• alignment and fixation of the window-door unit in the opening. For this, support blocks 110-120 mm long are used. They are placed under each vertical element of the balcony block;
• fixing the frame structure to the wall using anchor plates and dowels;
• execution of a mounting seam with the application of three main layers: central, internal and external;
• window sill installation. The window sill is cut off, aligned along the axes with the help of support points, which can be wooden blocks, the space between the opening wall and the window sill is foamed;
• threshold setting. The concrete base is cleaned and leveled, support bars are installed, the supports are leveled horizontally, the threshold is laid, the space under it is foamed, the joints are sealed.
• slope finishing. The work depends on what material you want to finish the slopes with: plaster, plastic, drywall.

PVC profile for balcony blocks

What to look for when installing a balcony block

The main points on which the quality of installing a balcony block largely depends:

• installation exactly on the level and correct alignment of the diagonals;
• installation of all structural elements in one plane;
• ensuring a gap between the frame and a quarter of at least 10 mm along the entire perimeter of the opening;
• the mounting gap between the frame openings at the top and sides should be at least 25 mm, and at the bottom - at least 30 mm.

The company "Okna Migom" manufactures balcony blocks from high-quality PVC and aluminum profiles of the world's leading companies: Deceuninck, Rehau, Schuco, Provedal and the domestic manufacturer SIAL. All these brands are leaders in their field and produce a modern high-quality product with the best thermal and noise insulation characteristics. For the production and installation of our windows, we use fittings from the German brand Roto, which provide excellent technical and operational properties. You can order both standard and non-standard options for balcony blocks from us.

In modern cities, the majority of the population lives in apartment buildings. And the layout of almost any apartment implies the presence of a balcony or loggia. This is a very convenient and multifunctional piece and is usually separated from the main living area. The device and materials from which the balcony block is made make it possible to minimize the heat exchange between the apartment and the street, as well as increase sound insulation.

The device of the balcony block

A balcony block is a balcony window and a door combined into a single structure, while the window does not open. Its main purpose is to increase the degree of isolation of living space. If the balcony itself is glazed, an additional door and window can reduce heat loss and noise levels. If the balcony space is open, the installation of a block is simply necessary to protect the house from rain, cold, debris and dust.

The balcony block is a door and a window that most often does not open

The installation of a balcony block can be carried out by specialists, any company that sells plastic windows and doors will be happy to provide their services. But if there is no desire to include additional expenses in the repair budget, you can do it on your own, when ordering a balcony block, the kit includes:

• the window itself with the frame and the door leaf with the frame;
• threshold and window sill, ebb for the outside, slopes;
• accessories.

Options for balcony blocks

There are the following design options that a balcony block can have:

1. Standard. It includes a door and a narrow fixed window - a versatile option.
2. Block with a wide balcony window. Its design is similar to the previous one, but the window is square and larger.
3. Standard unit with transom. With this design, an additional rectangular section is located above the narrow window and door.
4. Wide window and two doors. One of them can be either fixed or movable.
5. Two narrow windows located on the sides of the door.
6. The so-called "French" block. This design uses volumetric windows without frames, occupying the entire distance from floor to ceiling, or similar double doors.

When choosing a balcony block of any of the above structures, one must remember the pros and cons of each. The main thing that influences the choice is the size of the balcony or loggia, as well as the adjoining room. For example, the option with a transom involves an additional number of partitions, which means less light, so they can only be installed by selecting a large window. The installation of double doors is also justified only if the balcony is of sufficient size.

The window in the balcony block may be non-standard

If we talk about the materials from which the balcony block is made, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is in the first place in popularity. This is primarily due to its practicality and relatively low cost. PVC windows and doors do not need to be painted, they are durable and fit into almost every interior. In addition, the features of this material provide good sound and heat insulation. Windows in such structures can be made with a different number of chambers.

The other two popular materials are aluminum profile and wood. Both are significantly more expensive than PVC. In addition, the aluminum profile has a lower thermal insulation.

How to install a balcony block?

If it was decided to carry out the installation on their own, it is necessary to get an idea about all the stages of this process. Separately, it is worth mentioning how the balcony block is dismantled. If you just need to remove the old double-leaf window and door, these are usually installed in a panel house, this is not so difficult. Their device makes it easy to remove the sashes and remove the glass.

If the complete destruction of the balcony block is planned, this is completely different. In this case, there are rules for both the conduct of work and the use of this space in the future. The capital dismantling of a balcony block is always coordinated with a number of regulatory authorities, for example, the city architectural inspection, as it affects the supporting structures.

Preparatory stage

First of all, you need to purchase all additional building materials and tools:

• Pencil, triangle, tape measure, building level and knife, anchor bolts.
• Sealant and gun for him.
• Jigsaw, hacksaws for metal and wood.
• Hammer, rubber mallet, impact screwdriver.
• Perforator and drill.

There are several features of the implementation of measurements for the purchase of a balcony block. Many companies provide free services of professional measurers, using them you can at the same time assess the level of professionalism of the company's employees.

You can use the services of professionals when installing a balcony block

Before taking measurements, it is necessary to clean the openings to the main wall, and also level them using a level, the corners must be strictly straight. When carrying out independent measurements, it is necessary to draw a sketch indicating all dimensions plus a margin of about 1 cm for anchors. The width of the window is marked separately from the door. It is also necessary to note the desired ways of opening each part. Before ordering, it is worth clarifying what is included in the kit, it may be that some parts will need to be ordered additionally.

Then you should be puzzled by the search for an assistant, and preferably two. They are necessary both at the stage of delivering parts of the balcony block home, if the services of loaders are not used, and during the installation itself due to the large dimensions and weight of the structure. During unloading, it is worth paying increased attention to whether the kit is complete, and also in what condition the parts are. All cracks and scratches due to the fault of the manufacturer or delivery service should be detected now.

Also, according to the transportation standards for such structures, the window sashes must already be in the frame, the door in the box, and all locking mechanisms closed.

It remains to prepare the window and door for installation. To do this, do the following with the window:

• the sash is removed (it is necessary to remove the upper rod, open the locking mechanism and remove it from the lower hinge);
• the double-glazed window is removed from the fixed windows (it is enough to bend all the glazing beads to the inside and remove them);
• sealing tape is glued on the outside;
• if necessary, brackets for a mosquito net are attached;
• in the profile exactly in the center at a distance of 7 cm and 1.5 cm from the corners or partitions, holes are made for anchor bolts.

The last step is the installation of the window sill

All the same is done for the door frame. After that, the box and frame are assembled into a single block.

Important! The sides where the box and frame are connected must be without holes for bolts. The sides of the connection are glued from the outside with sealing tape and the connecting profile is fixed.

The first step is to insert the balcony block into the opening. In this case, it is necessary to make sure that it is even in relation to the plane of the wall and to the slopes. For this, a building level is useful. For the most accurate installation of the frame, it is better to place some supports of the required thickness under its vertical parts, for example, a piece of board.

Further, through the holes in the profile, made earlier by a puncher, a wall is drilled. After that, anchor bolts are attached to them. After the final fixing, the door, window sashes and double-glazed windows are returned to their places. To fix the latter, previously removed glazing beads are used. Putting them back in place is easy, just insert the corners and hammer in the middle with a rubber mallet.

The last step is the processing of cracks with mounting foam. The easiest way to do this is with a special gun. Seams and cavities are approximately two-thirds full, then the foam expands to take up the remaining space. You should not neglect such processing of seams; construction foam has excellent moisture and heat insulation properties. At the same time, it is easily destroyed under the influence of the sun, so it is important to process the already hardened foam as soon as possible, for example, cover it with paint. Complete drying occurs after approximately 24 hours, all this time it is impossible to open the sashes and doors of the balcony block.

Final design

In most cases, when installing a balcony block, the design is completed by installing window sills and ebbs.

The window sill can be ordered as a set with a window or separately. For its manufacture, materials such as plastic, MDF, wood or even natural stone are used. The choice depends only on the wishes of the customer. In the kitchen, window sills are sometimes replaced with countertops.

Steps for installing a plastic window sill:

• opening cleaning;
• laying wooden linings and the window sill itself on them;
• installation of cargo on the windowsill;
• filling all voids with mounting foam and trimming the excess after solidification;
• installation of plugs on the ends of the window sill.

Important! Exactly in the horizontal plane, the window sill should be installed only in the longitudinal direction. In the transverse, a slope of about 5 mm is required towards the room.

Low tide is rarely installed, as it serves to remove moisture and precipitation from under the window outside. As a rule, there is no such need on the balcony.

Slopes are made in three ways: plastered, closed with plastic panels or drywall. The plastic option is the easiest.

With independent work on the installation of a balcony block, you must be very careful. The duration of its service directly depends on the correct execution. The whole structure must stand evenly, be well fixed, there must be no friction between the frame and the sashes, and the latter must not close arbitrarily. All this serves as an indicator of the quality of work.