Voltage stabilizer Resanta ASN-15000/3-Ts relay type is used to equalize the input voltage and protect devices from voltage surges with a total power of up to 15 kW. Suitable for industrial and office buildings. Works with a voltage of 380V with an accuracy of +/-8%. The device is equipped with mains noise filters that prevent distortion of the frequency sinusoid, microprocessor control and a digital voltage indicator. Exceeding the limits of the supported input voltage automatically turns off the power supply. The strong case protects internal knots of the device from damages. Thanks to the transport wheels, the stabilizer can be easily moved.

The relay-type stabilizer, due to its principle of operation, allows you to instantly respond to even the most significant and frequent voltage changes in the network and prevent equipment failure. The rated power at an input voltage of 190V is 15000W. Number of phases = 3.

Protection systems:
- Protection against voltage output outside the operating range of the stabilizer (operating range of the stabilizer is from 240 to 450 V).
- Thermal protection (thermal protection) allows the stabilizer to turn off when its load power exceeds the power of the device itself.

Advantages:
- Built-in filters for input and output frequency noise.
- Automatic power off when the voltage limit value is exceeded.
- Wide range of supported input voltage.
- In case of short-term overloads, the device does not turn off.
- Automatic switching on when the voltage equalizes within the operating range.
- Microprocessor control.
- High speed protection.

In this article I will tell you about my experience in repairing an electromechanical voltage stabilizer Resanta asn-20000/3-em, whose appearance is shown on the left.

How a voltage stabilizer works, I have already told in articles and stabilizers. Those who are interested in general questions on the choice, connection and varieties of these devices - please follow these links.

I think that if you undertook to repair the stabilizer and went to this page, you know the principle of operation well.

Components of a three-phase Resanta ASN

Before moving on to repairing the voltage stabilizer, we first briefly consider what our box consists of and how it is arranged.

So, as I said in a previous article about three-phase stabilizers, a three-phase stabilizer is three single-phase ones. The same is the case with Resanta asn-20000 / 3-em:

Three-phase electromechanical stabilizer - device

It can be seen that this stabilizer consists of three identical parts - three single-phase stabilizers, each of which stabilizes only its own phase. This applies to such common single-phase models as ASN 10000 1 em and others.

That is, even if there is a significant phase voltage imbalance at the input, then the output for all phases will be 220 V + -3%. You can read more about the parameters of such stabilizers in the instructions, which can be downloaded at the end of the article.

And if the phase imbalance occurred as a result of a zero break, about the consequences of this. A three-phase stabilizer will correct the situation to a certain extent, and if it fails, it will turn off and save the consumer.

Autotransformer

The heart of an electromechanical transformer is the step-up autotransformer. This "heart" beats in time with the change in voltage at the input of the stabilizer, trying to equalize it to normal.

Step-up autotransformer - the heart of an electromechanical stabilizer

Why is a step-up and not a step-down autotransformer used? Because stabilizers most often have to deal with reduced input voltage. But this does not mean, of course, that it cannot lower the overestimated input voltage. However, I will not describe the principles of operation of the autotransformer here.

Consider the stabilizer device in the following photo:

Stabilizer device with explanations

The first thing to learn is that an autotransformer consists of two equivalent parts connected in parallel to increase power. Accordingly, there are two windings, two brushes ride on them (the brush is not visible in the photo, it is indicated by an arrow).

Since the brush is a contact, and a rather bad one, it heats up. This is normal, but a radiator is provided to cool it. A thermal sensor is fixed in the brush radiator, which, when the permissible temperature (105 ° C) is exceeded, opens the control circuit and disconnects the load from the stabilizer output.

The motor moves the brushes along the surface of the winding, adjusting the voltage. At the end of the stroke of the brushes, corresponding to the lowest voltage (140 V), limit switches are installed that stop the motor. This is the most difficult mode of operation, since the output power of the stabilizer drops. If the voltage drops further, then the autotransformer can no longer cope, and the entire stabilizer is turned off. This is done by opening the KL relay contacts (see circuit diagram below).

A thermal sensor is fixed (glued) to the transformer case, which, when overheated above 125 ° C, opens the control circuit, protecting it from further thermal destruction.

Both types of sensors are self-healing. That is, when cooling down, the control circuit is assembled, and the stabilizer is ready for operation again.

Electronic board

What makes an autotransformer motor move? This is an electronic circuit that measures the input phase voltage, and outputs voltage to a servomotor that moves the autotransformer brush, changing the output voltage to the desired level:

The above photo shows the consequences of eliminating a frequent malfunction - a breakdown of bipolar power transistors through which the engine is controlled. At the same time, resistors also burn out with them, which initially have a power of 2W, but are replaced by 5W. But for malfunctions and repairs - at the end of the article.

This starter is necessary to protect (shutdown) the stabilizer and the load in case of unavailability, malfunction or overheating.

Let's take a closer look at its work when analyzing the circuit diagram.

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The electrical circuit of the three-phase voltage regulator Resanta

Consider the scheme of a single-phase electromechanical stabilizer Resant ASN - 10000/1-EM. Let's take this circuit, because, as I said, three single-phase ones are one three-phase stabilizer.

The scheme, as usual, can be zoomed in, and then further enlarged to 100% by clicking on the arrows in the lower right corner of the image. Then click the right mouse button, Save image as ..., etc.

How to print such a large diagram - be sure to check out.

Electrical circuit voltage stabilizer Resanta-ASN-10000-1-em

For ease of perception, I marked the main structural parts on the diagram.

Usually ha17324a works in the voltage regulator - this is an operational amplifier chip, it compares the voltages and outputs a signal to the TIP41 and TIP42 transistors, which supply power to the autotransformer motor.

I will not fully consider the work of electronics, who are interested - ask questions in the comments.

Now - how does this circuit differ from the three-phase stabilizer circuit:

The main difference is in the control circuit. In the single-phase version (in the diagram), it can be seen that the control circuit for powering the KM starter is assembled as follows: Neutral - Turn-on delay relay KL - Transformer thermal relay 1 (125 ° C) - Transformer thermal relay 2 (125 ° C) - Brush thermal relay 1 (105 °C) - Thermal switch brush 2 (105°C). Total - 5 contacts. If this circuit is assembled, the KM contactor turns on, and voltage is supplied to the output of the stabilizer.

In the three-phase version, in order for the stabilizer to start, 15 (!) Conditions must be met - that is how many contacts must be closed in order for the KM contactor to turn on.

During normal operation, when the stabilizer is turned on, you can hear how the KC is assembled - after about 10 seconds, a click (on one of the electronic boards), then another, and a third click starts the contactor and the entire stabilizer.

What is a control circuit, its difference from emergency and thermal circuits, and why the repair of any serious automation should begin with checking the control circuit - it is described in detail, I highly recommend it if you have read this far)

The second is the absence of a cooling fan, in this case, natural cooling.

The third is the absence of a bypass, its implementation will require the use of a three-pole contactor with normally closed contacts (or two conventional contactors), this is an expensive pleasure, so the manufacturer did without it.

I also write about this problem to the house through the ABP.

Repair of electromechanical voltage stabilizers

The main problem with such stabilizers is overheating. It is absolutely necessary to do maintenance of the stabilizer every 1-2 months, depending on the operating conditions. And the repair of voltage stabilizers must begin with cleaning.

The problem of overheating is manifested primarily due to the fact that the graphite brush, when moving along the surface of the transformer, inevitably wears out, and its particles, along with dust and other debris, remain on the contact track.

Now, when the brush continuously “crawls” over the surface, it starts to heat up more, spark, debris burns and burns to the copper surface. In the future, this negative effect will increase like an avalanche, and if no action is taken, it will reach irreversible limits, when cleaning will no longer help.

Of course, thermal sensors will save the situation - these are the first “bells”. If the stabilizer suddenly began to turn off “by itself”, it is urgent to call a specialist and clean the surface.

Here is the surface of the transformer in a satisfactory condition, after three years of work for 8 hours a day:

Surface - Satisfactory. And this is after washing with alcohol.

And here is what indifference to the state of the stabilizer can lead to. This is the same stabilizer, different phase:

Surface condition – Very bad

Even if this soot is removed, the cross-sectional area of ​​the wire will irreversibly decrease by 20-30%, which will increase the heating of the wire and brush, and lead to the above-described pessimistic processes:

The surface of the autotransformer is close. The wire insulation is burned out, an interturn short circuit is possible. Epoxy also fell off from overheating.

Only sandpaper “zero” will help here. It is necessary to clean along the brush, then rinse thoroughly with alcohol and wipe dry with a clean cloth.

Servo motor repair

Another breakdown is a malfunction of the servomotor when it stops moving the brush. The engine must be removed, cleaned, blown, lubricated. Since a DC motor with brushes is used, you can try to spin it at idle in both directions from a DC source with a voltage of about 5 V.

Thus, without disassembling it, you can clean its brushes a little, because the engine rotates (more precisely, turns) only at an angle of up to 180 degrees.

Electronic board repair

The engine may not turn and because it does not receive power. Power comes from the control board, from bipolar transistors. A pair of complementary transistors TIP41C and TIP42C is used, since the power supply of the circuit is bipolar. Transistors must be changed in pairs, even if one is intact. And only one manufacturer.

Datasheet (documentation) for transistors can be downloaded at the end of the article.

Also, 10 ohm resistors burn out in the same circuit (this is a consequence of the breakdown of transistors). Nothing prevents when replacing resistors to increase their power to 3 or 5 W, increasing the reliability of work.

Well, the replacement of relays, transistors, limit switches and other small things - according to the situation.

Power unit repair

The power part includes autotransformers (I have already said enough about them). And also - a contactor and an introductory machine, in which contacts and terminals are lit. From it is necessary to periodically stretch, clean, and if necessary - change.

Modernization proposals

If the voltage fluctuates approximately in one narrow range, and the transformer track burned out in this area (as in the last photo), I suggest changing the circuit so that the brush “travels” in another area. To do this, solder the wire from the lower end of the winding (N) a few turns higher (see diagram). Of course, on both parts of the autotransformer. As a result, the brush will slide along a different, relatively clean part of the track. The disadvantage of this solution is the narrowing of the adjustment range.

Another solution to this problem is to buy new transformers, which is not economically feasible - after three years of operation, it is better to buy a new stabilizer.

Another improvement is to install 12 V coolers (fans) on each transformer, which would blow on the brushes. Ideally, 6 fans. They will literally blow off dust particles. This will significantly extend the life of the stabilizer.

And how do you repair such stabilizers? I look forward to constructive criticism and sharing experiences in the comments.

Repair video

Below is a video that describes the principle of operation, verification and repair of an electromechanical stabilizer.

Download files

As promised - instructions for the stabilizer and documentation for transistors. As usual, I have everything downloaded freely and without restrictions.

/ Three-phase electromechanical AC stabilizers Resanta. Technical description, passport and operating instructions., pdf, 386.75 kB, downloaded: 2600 times./

/ Technical description of transistors for Resant stabilizers, pdf, 252.13 kB, downloaded: 2272 times./

The ASN-15000/3-EM Resant stabilizer model is recommended to be installed in dry and cool rooms on rubber, stone or any other surfaces that are not capable of conducting electric current. The case of the device allows it to work in conditions of high humidity within 80% and temperatures from 0 to 45 degrees Celsius.

Full automation of all systems

Among the advantages of using the ASN-15000/3-EM stabilizer is the full automation of processes and built-in protection systems. With their help, not only trouble-free operation of the equipment and an unprecedented high level of safety are ensured.

In the event of a short circuit, overload and overheating, the stabilizer automatically turns off, so that consumers of electricity can be sure of the durability of expensive household and office equipment.

Third-party intervention is not required for the operation of the device. The response speed of the device is 10 ms, and the efficiency reaches 97%.

Characteristics

Input voltage range, V	240-430
Rated output voltage, V	380±2%
Rated power at Uin≥190 V (kW)	15
Operating frequency (Hz)	50 / 60
Efficiency, at a load of 80%, not less	97
Output Voltage Accuracy (%)	2
Net weight (kg)	60,2
Cooling	natural
Regulation time (ms)	10
Sine wave distortion	absent
High voltage protection (V)	260±5
Protection class	IP 20 (not sealed)
Dimensions, L×W×H (mm)	840x360x360
Working ambient temperature (оС)	0-45
Relative air humidity, not more than (%)	80

Main characteristics

Weight, kg 60.2

Dimensions (L/W/H), cm 84/36/36

Relative air humidity, not more than (%) 80

Working ambient temperature (оС) 0-45

Dimensions, L×W×H (mm) 840x360x360

Protection class IP 20 (not sealed)

High voltage protection (V) 260±5

Sine wave distortion absent

Regulation time (ms) 10

Cooling natural

Net weight (kg) 60.2

Output Voltage Accuracy (%) 2

Efficiency, at a load of 80%, not less 97

Operating frequency (Hz) 50 / 60

Rated power at Uin≥190 V (kW) 15

Rated output voltage, V 380±8%

Input voltage range, V 240-430

Power, kW 15

Delivery in Moscow and the region

You can purchase the goods you are interested in worth more than 10,000 rubles with free delivery from a warehouse in Moscow. Delivery is carried out to the entrance.
If the order value is less than 10,000 rubles, the cost of delivery in Moscow will be 350 rubles.
Delivery outside the Moscow Ring Road is calculated in accordance with the tariff of 30 rubles per 1 km. (in case of transportation on a trailer - 35 rubles per 1 km.).
The forwarder will also provide you with all the necessary financial and warranty documents for the goods.

Delivery in Russia and CIS countries
If you do not live in Moscow, we can send you an order through a transport company by car, rail or air transport.
The shipping cost will be calculated automatically for the city you have chosen. This cost includes forwarding the order in Moscow and transportation to the warehouse of the transport company in the city of your choice. You will have to receive the goods from this warehouse upon the arrival of the order yourself.

Pickup
Office warehouse - Moscow region Mytishchi, st. Voronin str. 16, office 101
Mon-Fri, from 9-00 to 18-00

Hello all readers. Not so long ago, another Chinese craft of the Resant company fell into my hands, namely the Resant ASN-15000 / 3-Ts relay voltage stabilizer. To be honest, at first sight he surprised me. For a second, I thought the manufacturer was watching my video and reading the reviews, and corrected myself. But it was not there. Later, I got a little disappointed. But that's later.

Purpose: The three-phase AC voltage stabilizer "Resanta" is designed to provide stabilized power supply to various consumers in conditions of an unstable supply voltage of 380 V.

Let's start with the characteristics.

Line input voltage: 240-450 V
Phase input voltage: 140-260V
Rated power at linear Uin≥330 V: 15 kW
Mains frequency: 50/60 Hz
Number of phases: 3
Linear output voltage: 380 U+U 8% B
Phase output voltage: 220 U+U 8% V
Regulation time: less than 15 ms
Efficiency, not less: 97 %
Cooling: forced air
Power factor: no worse: 0.97
High voltage protection: There is
Low voltage protection: There is
Overload protection: There is
Overheat protection: There is
Bypass mode: absent
Sine Wave Distortion: absent

Here, in general, for the most part, everything is standard, and we will not learn anything new. I also did not find a manual on the site of the resanta. This surprised me a lot. It turned out that there is no paper manual, but you need to read it. Fortunately, the manual was found on another site. What the manufacturer is thinking about is not clear. Oh yes, the manual was missing at the time of writing the article, as after - this does not bother me anymore. So, refrain from saying that I'm writing shit here.

For the test you will need:
1. Actually the stabilizer itself
2. Current clamp UNI-T UT210E
3. Multimeter
4. Multimeter
5. LATR (3000BA)
6. Incandescent lamp 100 W
7. 1.8 kW (1800 W) electric kettle
8. Clothespin bracket https://goo.gl/K8PPPH
9. Bracket with lamp socket E27 https://goo.gl/bs9VCG
10. Caliper

Test Method:

This time it will be very simple and primitive. Let's do just two things:
1. Raising the voltage from zero to the maximum value that the lamp can withstand.
2. Raising the voltage from the minimum to the maximum value with a connected electric kettle of 1.8 kW.

Now let's move on to the stabilizer itself. You will not see this in the photographs, but this stabilizer is supplied in a fiberboard box (the frame is assembled from bars and upholstered in fiberboard). Inside the box there are foam inserts at the corners that prevent movement inside the package.

The stabilizer is made in a metal case, resembling a bedside table. From the front side of the stabilizer, a door opens, on which there are three LCD displays that display various parameters. More about them below.

1. Delay - the indicator is active when the stabilizer is turned on and when one of the protections is triggered (low / high voltage, overheating, overload). Additionally, the display shows a countdown of the delay time.
2. Work - the indicator is constantly active when the device is turned on.
3. Protection - the indicator is active when one of the protections is triggered.
4. Load indicator - changes in proportion to the load.
5. Weight - part of the load indicator - the indicator is constantly active when the device is turned on.
6. Resanta - the indicator appears when turned on (letter by letter), and is constantly active when the device is turned on.
7. Overheating - the indicator is active when the overheating protection is triggered.
8. Overload - the indicator is active when the overload protection is triggered.
9. Undervoltage - the indicator is active when the output voltage< 202В.
10. Status bar - consists of 8 dots. When turned on, each dot corresponds to a 1 second turn-on delay.
11. High voltage - the indicator is active when the output voltage is > 245V.
12. Input Voltage - Displays the input voltage.
13. Output voltage - displays the output voltage.

And that's exactly what was discussed above. The stabilizer is untwisted into several parts. The front door is opened and removed, the rear panel is unscrewed and the top roof is removed after unscrewing the four nuts. There are four wheels on the bottom of the case, which makes it easier to transport the device. I’ll say right away that the weight of the stabilizer is quite large, and it will be inconvenient to carry it alone.

On the right side of the stabilizer body there is an introductory technical pole machine, with the inscription "NETWORK" above. On the left side there are two holes in which rubber bands are inserted to prevent the cable from chafing against the edge in the holes. Two cables are threaded into these two holes: one is the incoming line, the other cable is to consumers. There is a 12V fan on the back wall. But to be honest, this is a dead poultice. There is no sense from him, and he will not be able to pump the volume of air for cooling. Also on the side surfaces of the case there are many technological holes that serve for the natural cooling of the stabilizer.

Here are some photos up close. Stabilizer Model:

Fan:

A kind of such a circuit breaker, and two technological holes:

There is such a lock on the front door, but without a key and fool protection. By the way, it closes very badly, it enters indistinctly. Sometimes you need to hammer on it. Generally unpleasant. But since it is often not necessary to climb into the stabilizer, we will assume that this is not critical, it is simply not pleasant.

I'll tell you about the back panel right away. It is fastened with two screws, and the Chinese craftsmen do not seem to know what washers and grover are. By the way, the same thing is on the top cover. There are no washers at all.

Stabilizer with open side flaps and removed top cover:

There is a mounting plate at the bottom of the case. It has a terminal block for connecting power cables. Above is the Resanta PT34A-STBI module. To the right of the module, a contactor is installed, which is responsible for switching the load at the output of the stabilizer. The connecting wires are threaded through technological holes with protective rubber bands. To be honest, it surprised me that even tiny rubber bands were installed.

Now more about the Resanta PT34A-STBI module. The fact that it is in this stabilizer cannot but rejoice. Extra protection never hurts, especially in a 3F stabilizer. We are not talking about the logic of work yet, we will touch on it later. Naturally, I could not restrain myself, and opened it. There are no fillings. It seemed that everything was fine in this stabilizer, but after opening the module, collective farming was discovered. The very first thing that caught my eye was the soldered diode to the transistor flange directly. This is tin. There are, of course, such a lot where, but here it was possible not to collective farm. At the bottom of the board we see a clumsy jumper made of a piece of wire, as well as a capacitor soldered with a soldering iron. To be honest, I didn't expect this. This is, so to speak, the first fail. I'm still silent about a bunch of SMD components soldered for nothing. Somehow he made fun of a friend, throwing a photo with the phrase "Gouged out your eyes." Enjoy:

Next up is the contactor. Turns out it's Chinese. Its model is CJX2 3210. Designed for a voltage of 380V and a current of 32A. Taken with a margin, very good. I'll tell you right away about its connection. I swear a lot at the resant for the fact that they do not crimp or even tin the ends of the wires, especially since a wire with a multi-wire core is used, which must necessarily be crimped or tinned. Here I saw the opposite. Though bad, but tinned. I was just overjoyed.

Unfortunately, the joy was short-lived. As it turned out, there are quite a few tinned wires. In general, the Chinese were too lazy during assembly. I still can't figure out why not wear tips. It's not that hard, and it's inexpensive. In general, the second fail. The Chinese have not recovered. The input machine is made of plastic of such a dark gray color. Designed for a current of 25A with a rated voltage of 230/400 V.

Display module. There is nothing special. Unique. The front is unprotected. They could also install a piece of plastic in front of the display. In general, if you want to break it is quite simple.

Next, we smoothly move on to our transformer. The total diameter of the toroidal transformer for the outer windings is 160 mm. Next, as usual, we find out what the diameter of the winding wire is and what the maximum current is designed for. We use a caliper as a measuring tool. The diameter of the wire with insulation turned out to be 3 mm, but on the bare section without insulation it was 2.9 mm. From this we conclude that the thickness of the varnish is 0.1 mm. In previous calculations, when reviewing stabilizers, I just took this value. Everything was adequate. Next, we calculate the radius. 2.9 mm/2=1.45 mm. Next, you need to calculate the cross section of the conductor according to the formula S \u003d Pi * R 2. It follows that S=3.14*1.45 2 =6.60185 sq. mm. Approximately 6.6 sq. mm. This is very very nice to see. I saw a transformer with such a thick winding in a stabilizer. But he and the declared power was greater than that of this resant. The wire parameters, by the way, completely match the two stabilizers. The winding current turns out to be 39.6 A. Round up and get 40 A. From this moment on, Resant begins to amaze. Wound really with a margin. If you count, you get a maximum power of 8800 W (8.8 kW). So this is for one transformer. And we have three of them. The manufacturer claims the power of the stabilizer is 15 kW. If divided into three phases, it turns out 5 kW. In general, the reserve is more than 3 kW. But do not forget, our introductory machine and the contactor are not designed for high currents. It's real, it feels like the Chinese mixed up and put the wrong transformers. Either a new model, and have not yet had time to spoil. I don't know how to explain it. In stabilizers from Resanta, I saw a discrepancy between the characteristics of the winding wire.

Several thermocouples are installed on the transformer. Two thermocouples under the topmost winding and one thermocouple is located on the inner ring of the "trance".

Let's move on to the bandage. A fiberglass cambric is put on top of it. That's just one thing that confuses, why it darkened, as if there was a big load, and there was a strong warming up of the bandage. We remove the cambric, under it everything seems to be more or less adequate. I saw the same picture in all other stabilizers where aluminum winding wire is used.

I did not stop at one transformer. Looked second. There are no signs of burning there. Then he moved on to the third. And it's the same as the first one. I don't know how. But more like traces of flux. See for yourself:

In the stabilizer, a current-collecting coil is installed on each phase. It is put on the incoming cable of the stabilizer board. Due to it, the load on the stabilizer is calculated and then displayed on the scoreboard.

Next up is the control board. It was made on a one-sided textolite, and in appearance for the most part does not differ from the model. Most of the board is washed from the flux. Only the flux in the power section was not washed off. Power relays in this model are installed directly on the board.

In all boards in the PSU I see constantly PWM VIPER 12A, sometimes VIPER 22.

On the board, places for wires are marked, including taps with voltages. Here we return to our sheep. Why not crimp the wire, insert it normally into the hole and solder it as it should be. Here the wire is simply inserted into the hole and soldered. I also saw when the wires are simply soldered to the back of the board.

The board has JQX-30F/1Z power relays of unknown origin. Most likely China as usual. These relays are designed for a current of 30A. What actually they have with the parameters is unknown. On the relay in such a case, I did not find a datasheet.

The board is controlled by a microcontroller. This time I removed the sticker completely. It turned out to be a Chinese microcontroller Haier HR7P171F8D1. There is also no datasheet. In general, such a unique microcircuit.

We looked at the iron, found out what this stabilizer is made of. Let's go back to the logic of its work. And let's start with the Resanta PT34A-STBI module. As I said above, this block controls the input parameters. More specifically, it checks the input network for the absence of phases (phases), phase sequence, zero break. Due to the presence of this module, the use of this stabilizer with one phase is not possible. Those. if you want to connect this stabilizer to a single-phase circuit, you will not succeed. The stabilizer just goes into defense and that's it. Until it is fully enabled, the parameters are monitored, and the module then decides whether to start all nodes or not. It's very nice to see. True, on the Internet, I met people with problems with its launch, when they tried to connect it from two phases, and nothing worked for people. Keep in mind. There is no such protection in stabilizers from other manufacturers, and three-phase stabilizers are three independent single-phase stabilizers that are not interconnected in any way. In such cases, it is also necessary to install various devices and equipment to control zero breaks, phase control relays and do other tricks for protection, which in turn adds money costs.

Now the pinout of the module contacts.

1. "ACJ C+", "ACJ C-" power supply of the armature winding of the contactor
2. "OUT AO-" (white wire) "OUT AO+" (green wire) - Goes to the "A" phase control board. They are soldered instead of one relay to the winding contacts. Also by analogy with BO and CO.
3. "ACI N" (far left), "ACP N-A", "ACP N-B", "ACP N-C" neutral conductor connection.
4. "ACI L-A", "ACI L-B", "ACI L-C" phase control at the input of the stabilizer.
5. "ACO L-A", "ACO L-B", "ACO L-C" control of parameters at the output of the stabilizer, immediately after the contactor.
6. "ACI N" three terminals in the right block - zero control.

I would like to add about connecting the stabilizer to one phase. I also decided to try to connect three inputs at once to one phase, but nothing happened, as I said above, the stabilizer checks for the presence of all phases at the input. Fortunately, I made a three-phase power supply in my apartment a long time ago, and now I can easily connect three-phase devices. I connected the stabilizer with a PVA 5x4 cable, with crimping of the ends. In the break of one of the phases, a single-phase LATR was installed. You can see the testing process itself by watching the video below:

I'll tell you about an interesting jamb of the stabilizer. During testing, such a glitch was discovered when the stabilizer tries to start and immediately cuts off. Then it tries to start again, and cuts off again. And this can go on for a long time. This happens at 139V input voltage. To be honest, this glitch is unpleasant, and is accompanied by an endless clatter of the relay. It happens that the contactor even has time to turn on, and then after turning it on, the stabilizer abruptly goes into protection. It's not very pleasing. It would be possible to make a longer delay, with an input voltage of 140V. I think it's not a problem to add the firmware.

The tests also revealed a feature of the LCD-display, or rather its readings. In general, the bottom line is that one of the parameters, namely the input voltage, the stabilizer now shows in more or less real time and adequately. But the output, as he showed up to a certain range, and shows. In this case, the display shows 220V. Here is a live example:

When the output voltage crosses the border of 239-240V, real readings begin to be displayed on the display.

All the same, I am for ensuring that the readings are always in real time and displayed believably. This is what the stabilizer looks like at dusk. The backlight of the displays is very bright, and when the numbers on two displays are good, the numbers on the third display are no longer visible in contrast.

This is how my sofa and carpet stand looked like:

CONCLUSION:

I'll tell you right away. The stabilizer is amazing. Compared to what I saw in other Resants, this instance of the stabilizer demonstrates that the Chinese, if they try and turn on the light in their basement, can normally and accurately assemble. The logic of the stabilizers and its protection has been thought out. Pretty neat build. There are certainly disadvantages, but here you can not do without them. For a given power stabilizer model, I would say that power relays work quite quickly. Of course, without accurate measurements it is not possible to say what the regulation time is, but by ear, we can say that the actual response speed is less than 15 ms. There is, so to speak, experience in checking slower relays.

I can’t recommend this stabilizer for purchase, because. there is a serious overhead with turning on / off at low input voltage. But I can’t say that this is a complete piece of shit, as in previous reviews. It turned out such an average piece of iron, bad and not bad. Such an average.

Another disadvantage is that LCD displays are not protected in any way. Putting a piece of plastic in front of the screen would be nice.

One more moment. This stabilizer was in operation, and, as I was told, it went into defense. Therefore, it was dismantled. Why exactly he went to the defense - I do not know.

That's all, thanks for your attention. With pleasure I will accept for testing a voltage regulator of any brand, model and power.