Siding is already widely used in construction as a finishing material. Due to its beautiful appearance and ease of installation, siding has gained its popularity. Such a finishing material is used during the construction of a private house, summer house, bathhouse or other auxiliary building... Do-it-yourself siding of a wooden house does not differ from the cladding of a house made of another material, the technology of work is the same.

Reasons to use siding

Required tools

Siding home cladding works are simple and do not require special knowledge, but still it is necessary to get acquainted with the sequence of work execution, as well as their features, especially if a person has not encountered this type of work. Before sheathing a wooden house with siding, you need to purchase material, check the availability of everything you need and complete the preparatory work.

Tools that will be needed to complete the work:

Types of siding

There are several types of siding:

When ordering a finishing material, it is necessary to measure the finishing area and the number of openings. Siding window cladding provides additional material consumption.

In addition to the panels themselves, additional installation elements will be required:

Preparing for installation

Preparing for the installation of siding includes the implementation of several mandatory points:

• Inspection of geometric indicators... Often, siding is used to decorate not only new, but also long-used buildings that could "sink" and change their geometric shape. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the diagonals of the walls so that they are square. Also check the geometric shape of the window and door openings. Using a plumb line, you need to inspect the perpendicularity of the walls to the base.



• Surface preparation... It is necessary to remove all protruding elements from the surface of the facade, this can be a grill on windows, a platband or shutters. Also, it is necessary to remove the falling off plaster or tiles.

  Paint, dirt and dust should be removed from the wooden surface, and the walls should be inspected for the presence of mildew and mildew. If present, be sure to thoroughly clean the surface with coarse emery. Wooden house after cleaning treated with antiseptics, in order to further keep the material from rot and fungus, as well as fire retardants to protect against fire in case of fire.

• Frame device... The step-by-step instructions for installing the frame are quite simple, first of all, you need to decide on the material of the frame. It can be wooden or metal.

  

  
  

  For a horizontal siding device, the frame is installed vertically, if the siding is installed horizontally, then the guides are also mounted horizontally. Vertical siding is non-horizontal, installed vertically, and products of the corresponding design.





• Wall insulation... It is convenient to use mineral wool as a heater. The mats are cut to the desired length and placed between the guide posts. The insulation should be slightly larger in order to firmly lock in place. In addition to mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam can be used as a heater, but it will take more time to install such a heater.



• Waterproofing device... For finishing a wooden house, the presence of a waterproof and windproof membrane is required. If there is no insulation, then the film is mounted directly on the wall before installing the frame. In the presence of thermal insulation, a waterproof and windproof membrane is arranged over the insulation and the frame. For installation with siding, the technology provides for the presence of waterproofing for the entire finish area.

Installation technology for siding and its structural elements

Siding cladding technology determines the device of additional decorative and functional elements. Installation is carried out from bottom to top. The plinth finish can be plaster, tile or special siding.

Low tide Is a decorative element that performs the function drainage of atmospheric precipitation from the facade... The ebb is installed according to the level, observing the horizontal, and is attached to special nail holes to the frame using self-tapping screws. If the nail holes do not hit the guide post, then you can make a hole in the right place using a punch. The ebb is mounted so that it can easily move within the nail hole, this will prevent deformation of the mounted siding. Low tide installed along the perimeter of the building above the basement... After installing one element, the next one is mounted with an overlap of 2.5 cm.

Outside and inside corners installed with one element to the entire height of the building. The element of the outer or inner corner is measured by size and cut off with a grinder. Then it is installed in the appropriate corner and fastened with one self-tapping screw. In this position, it is necessary to correct so that the corner element is located strictly perpendicular to the foundation. When the level is set, the corner is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 200 mm. The attachment is carried out in the same way as the attachment of the ebb. The correctness of the installation is checked by moving the element along the axis.

Start profile installed slightly above the ebb and fixed with self-tapping screws to the frame in the same way as other elements. The correctness of the fastening is checked by horizontal movement of the profile. If it does not move, then it is necessary to release some of the fasteners a little.

The platband is cut to fit the size of the window opening... Each element must be trimmed at a 45 degree angle. Thus, the size of each casing is taken with a margin of 150 mm. In the upper platband, special tongues 20 mm long are arranged to protect against atmospheric precipitation. First, the lower element is attached, then the vertical, side ones. The upper casing is attached last, the tongues are inserted into the vertical elements. Fastening is carried out in the center of the nail holes, and all elements must be capable of axial movement.

Siding installation starts from the bottom panel... The lower part is inserted into the starting profile, and the upper part is screwed to the guides with self-tapping screws. Attaching siding to a wooden house starts from the yard. Work starts from areas with increased traffic: doors or gates. If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the siding, a connecting element is installed, it is used in its capacity, the ends of the profile are inserted into it.

After attaching the first panel the second is installed, in the same way... The installation of the last panel is carried out only after the installation of the finishing profile. If the last panel does not fit, it can be cut with a knife. The cutting line is marked and several times is drawn along it with a knife, and then the excess part of the panel is broken off by pendulum movements. Window and door openings are cut in the same way.

Soffit for finishing open gables of roofs gives the building a finished look. J-profiles are used to install them. One is mounted against the wall, and the second is parallel to it at the plumb line of the roof. The distance between the profiles is measured and the soffit is cut along it, but it should be 6 mm less for possible thermal expansion. The soffit is mounted between the profiles.

Siding is a building material that allows you to quickly, with little labor and money, give a private house an attractive appearance. Siding cladding is used most of all for renovating old, but still quite solid buildings, see fig. Installation of siding is technologically very simple, it does not require careful preparation of the underlying surface, complex working skills and special tools.

At the same time, the cost of cladding by a hired team is 50-60% of the cost of the material, which will amount to at least 12,000 rubles for a medium-sized house. savings in the case of self-execution. The very same working process for a person who knows how to tinker with something, but who took up siding for the first time, takes 5-12 working days.

In addition, finishing the house with siding already noticeably insulates it. And it is possible (and recommended) to combine it with cladding work. At the same time, it is significantly simplified and cheaper without sacrificing efficiency. When self-cladding with siding with simultaneous insulation, the total cost of work drops by at least half, fuel consumption for heating in winter is reduced by 25-35% in mid-latitudes, and electricity consumption for air conditioning in summer is 15-20%. Raise your last year's expenses on these budget items, figure out the savings in money - you probably won't have to give more weighty arguments in favor of ennobling your house with siding with your own hands.

Where did he come from?

Siding means ... tes. Yes, yes, those same seasoned edged in size and planed along the profile wooden boards, applied to the sheathed surface or frame in a cut, herringbone. Initially, cut-to-length sheathing was used in shipbuilding; Fofan pleasure boats made according to this technology can still be found here and there.

Whether the Vikings, or our Pomors, came up with the upholstery, now you can't tell. Both of them required strong, light, durable and not requiring frequent repairs, vessels suitable for sailing among the ice. In the powers, whose fleets sailed in low latitudes, the cladding of ships with nape did not take root, and then it was completely forgotten - it is extremely prone to fouling.

The northern peoples soon, for the sake of saving timber in short supply beyond the Arctic Circle, for greater strength and durability of buildings, began to sheathe houses with planks. This made it possible to build more quickly in new places, so plank structures were especially popular among the Russian pioneers. The Anglo-Saxons met them in Canada and Alaska, which was then Russian possession. In general, many of our compatriots lived in America; on the map south to San Francisco and east to Detroit there are the names of Fort Russian, Russian Point, etc.

Practical Americans with a developed engineering vein fell in love with siding, and wooden private houses there spread widely, although the cowboys from the Wild West themselves hardly suspected that the buildings in their settlements were erected according to Russian technology. Nowadays, siding is made from modern construction materials; parts are connected with latches. This saved the siding siding from the only drawback of its progenitor - the obligatory caulking of the seams, which had to be replaced annually.

Why this article?

Each batch of siding panels (boards) and shaped fasteners to them - addons - must be accompanied by detailed instructions for assembling the coating. Sellers, as a rule, give a free copy when buying, and there are enough materials on this topic on the Internet.

But you can't foresee everything in the instructions, there are always nuances, the neglect of which can complicate the work and worsen its quality, although the siding is generally very tolerant of minor deviations from the installation technology. On the other hand, these minor deviations can, depending on specific conditions, be admitted deliberately for the sake of simplifying and reducing the cost of work. It is about such and such subtleties that will be discussed further.

How is siding covered?

There are a lot of materials for assembling siding with your own hands, but they somehow lose the typical sheathing scheme recommended by leading manufacturers, see fig. on right:

• Superimposed on the wall.
• The first (distance strips) are mounted for insulation.
• Insulation is applied in two layers.
• A second lathing is mounted on top of it.
• Siding is being mounted.

Let's say right away - almost no one ever does this, it is too difficult and expensive. Why is it recommended? Based on the worst case of execution - mineral wool insulation. So that it does not immediately get wet outside, does not sleep and does not stop insulating something, ventilation gaps are needed on both sides of the insulation layer, and its layers must be applied with a shift of the plates.

Insulation under siding is most often made from expanded polystyrene. Moreover, since it is sufficiently protected from the weather and the Sun by the cladding itself and is not loaded with plaster, it is possible to use the cheapest packaging rather than expensive EPS. The device of the simplified sheathing considered below assumes insulation by them.

Video: about siding on the example of an old house

Preparing for sheathing

Complex and / or time-consuming work is not required to prepare for siding. An external inspection of the building and several measurements are enough, which will take no more than half a day. At the same time, it may be necessary to "cover" the overflow of the masonry mortar with a butt, drive in protruding nails and eliminate other small, over 6 mm in height, protrusions.

Inspection

During the inspection of the house, first of all, they determine the general unevenness of planes and lines with a long, even rail and a cord / tape measure: walls, plinth pedestal, corners, eaves, roof overhangs, underside of a pediment, window openings. It should not exceed 12 mm over the entire plane / line or 6 mm locally.

That is, if, for example, the wall turned out to be not a rectangle, but a rhombus or a trapezoid, then the difference in its diagonals should not exceed 12 mm. And the same diagonal difference for window / door openings should be no more than 6 mm. The total hump or depression of the wall or the deflection of the pediment / cornice / basement should also be no more than 12 mm, etc. Installation of siding is allowed on buildings that are slightly inclined, but generally retain their squareness.

Next, check with the level and plumb line the perpendicularity / horizontalness of the lines and angles relative to the base and the surface of the soil. The total slope of the building from subsidence should not be more than 25 mm on either side. As a rule, such a slope of it reveals itself at the previous stage of the revision as unacceptable deflections / drawdowns. If so, you don't have to think about siding for now - the building is at least pre-emergency, major repairs are needed. The installed cladding will soon go to warp and puff up anyway.

Choice of lathing

The lathing for siding can be made of one- and two-level metal from CD-profiles (see Fig.) Or special and one-two-level wooden, from slats from 40x40 to 50x80 mm. In the latter case, the sheathing tree should be impregnated with insecticides and fungicides. One and the other lathing can be both linear and lattice; single-level lattice - mortise. Rectangular battens are placed on the wall with the narrow side.

The choice of the type of lathing is made according to the results of the revision of the building:

1. General unevenness up to 3 mm - any one-level; better linear, it is simpler and cheaper.
2. The same, up to 6 mm - single-level wooden from 50x80 beams or two-level metal from C-profiles.
3. The same, up to 12 mm - a two-level wooden one with alignment of the outer beams with plywood lining at the joints or a special metal one with adjusting strips.

Next, you should choose the design of the lathing: with horizontal or vertical lags. The first will go for vertical siding (see below), and the second - for horizontal siding. If the crate is two-level, then we are talking about external, on which the boards will be hung, logs.

It must be said that vertical siding is not at all the same planks installed upright. Vertical siding boards are a special type of product, they are more expensive than conventional ones. Siding manufacturers recommend sheathing the walls of the building horizontally, and the gables vertically, respectively, to make the crate.

These recommendations are based on considerations of increased wind resistance of the skin. There is no place to go into the intricacies of the aerodynamics of buildings, suffice it to say that the combined cladding is designed for an average annual wind speed of over 10 m / s. However, in the Russian Federation there are almost no places with such winds, only in some places on the outskirts the average annual wind speed exceeds 5 m / s. Therefore, our finishers quite often make the cladding horizontal on vertical joists throughout the entire outer area of ​​the building. This simplifies and reduces the cost of work.

About thermal bridges

The reader may have a question: if the crate is metal, then what is the point in insulation? The metal frame will let the cold into the wall in addition to any foam.

It will not let you if you put gaskets made of paronite or basalt cardboard under the profiles at the points of their attachment to the wall or under the heels of the adjusting strips; By the way, they are also very convenient to regulate the evenness of the lags. And the self-tapping screw does not form a thermal bridge, it sits not directly in the wall, but in a plastic dowel.

About self-tapping screws

For fastening the battens, self-tapping screws of 4-6 mm are needed, which go into the wall by at least 60 mm. Phosphated (black) ones are better, they are cheaper and stronger, and rust does not take them under the skin. The fastening step is 350-500 mm, depending on the windiness of the place.

Sheathing parts are attached to the wooden crate with 3 mm self-tapping screws with a press washer with a diameter of 8 mm. For fastening to a wooden crate you need "bugs" 22-24 mm long, and to metal - "fleas" 6-10 mm long. The step of fastening and other subtleties - see below, in the section on installation.

About old skin

Old wood sheathing can be left under the siding as long as it has not warped or rotted. This will immediately give a fairly flat underlying surface. If the sheathing is not a big deal, we count the protruding edges of the boards for the plane. It is only necessary to adjust the fastening step so that the self-tapping screws fall on the edges of the old boards.

About horizontally horizontally

The horizontal siding is effortlessly fastened to the vertical crate by one person, and the accuracy of the installation of the lags is not of decisive importance here: you will have to have some kind of fastening groove on the lag, but it is not necessary to strictly maintain the step of fastening the boards. To fasten the same panels to horizontal logs, they need to be installed according to a template together, and the boards will have to be fastened with an assistant. In addition, a horizontal lathing for horizontal cladding is required to be two-level - without ventilation, the walls will go damp under the cladding. But the "horizontal horizontally" cladding withstands gusts of wind up to a hurricane. Therefore, if you live in a place where there is something like the Novorossiysk pine forest, it is better to fix it this way.

Siding selection

Material

Siding is made of plastic (PVC, polyisopropylene), metal (galvanized steel, aluminum) and natural wood. The latter is unstable in the open air, despite any impregnations, therefore it is used either with special requirements for design and prestige (lower left in the figure at the beginning), or in the interior (ibid, lower center). Aluminum siding is very effective, but expensive, requires special tools and high qualifications of the worker, so it is not considered further.

Vinyl siding is the cheapest and most common, top left in fig. at the beginning. Its surface can imitate not only the color, but also the texture of the sample material (wood, stone, etc.). Working with it is not much more difficult than with cardboard. PVC siding is strong enough for all regions of the country, except for the highlands and the Far North, where strong winds and frosts often occur. In these places, you need to take propylene from plastic, it is 10-15% more expensive.

However, in the southern places, and in the same mountains, the plastic siding reveals an unpleasant property: 3-7 years after installation, without losing its strength, it looks somewhat sloppy. The reason is microcracks formed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and dust accumulating in them. Washing is useless; it is possible to restore it with special silicone compounds for refurbishing the plastic parts of cars. But they are expensive, and the house is not a bumper or spoiler in terms of surface area, replacing the skin is much cheaper.

Metal siding (top center in the figure at the beginning) is completely insensitive to UV. Painting it, controlled by computers, gives a non-repeating color. Metal siding "under a log" (block house) can be distinguished from real ideally debarked logs only by scratching. Which, by the way, is very difficult - the paint is of incredible strength.

Metal siding costs about the same as plastic siding, but it has some disadvantages:

• Requires high evenness of the lathing: if a plastic board 2.4 m long can be bent in the middle until it breaks by 3-4 inches, then the metal one breaks already with a deflection of an inch. And the permissible assembly deflection is no more than 1/3 of the breaking one, and even that must be avoided.
• Not as strong as PVC and especially propylene. Dropped by a good blow with a fist or head from a slipped person.
• Does not allow you to get small, for example. wood grain, texture.
• The complexity of work on it is much higher.

The last point requires clarification. It is impossible to cut metal siding with a grinder; from heating and vibration far to the sides of the cut, the protective coating is broken. Metal scissors distort the edges of the profile, which is not always possible to hide under extrusions, especially for a novice craftsman. And you also need to cut extras, but they are always in sight. It remains either a hacksaw for metal with fine teeth, but when sheathing, you have to make hundreds of cuts. Or - a special guillotine machine with a set of profile knives, very expensive.

Both plastic and metal siding are available for cladding both walls and plinths. Basement siding is shorter (panels up to 1.165 m long versus 6 m), wider (440 mm) and thicker (20 mm). It is more expensive, but stronger, looks very impressive, perfectly imitating natural stone, therefore it is successfully used for cladding not only plinths, but also the entire outer surface of buildings (top right in the figure at the beginning). The methods of work and additions for basement siding are different than for ordinary siding, see below.

Based on the foregoing, the following recommendations can be made for cladding private houses with siding:

1. In the middle lane, approximately between the lines St. Petersburg-Yekaterinburg and Voronezh-Volgograd, and in the south of Siberia - any, based on cash. The cheapest and easiest to work with is vinyl.
2. In the Southern Federal District, in the Far East to the south of Khabarovsk-Komsomolsk-on-Amur and in Kamchatka to the north to the Parapolsky Dol - metal siding or frost-resistant (-60 / + 60) vinyl.
3. In the northern regions - plastic-propylene, frost-resistant PVC in strong local winds or metal, if the weather is mostly calm.

To item 2. There is a lot of UV in Primorye in clear weather; Vladivostok lies on the same latitude as Sochi. But in summer, clear weather is not always there - the monsoon blows, it rains. Therefore, for 10 years or more, you can get by with plastic.

About combined cladding

Sheathing the whole house with basement siding will cost a pretty penny - it is twice or three times more expensive than usual. On the other hand, many private houses are built with pilasters. To circle all these corners - it will take a lot of ordinary siding to waste. In this case, it would be best to allocate 10-12% more money for cladding, and sheathe the house in a combined way: planes with ordinary boards, and pilasters with basement panels, they are just adapted to work in small areas. The result can be even more elegant than with solid plinth plinth (bottom right in the illustration at the beginning), but not much more expensive than conventional plinth.

About panel profile

As for the profile of the panels, which determines the appearance of the cladding, it can be any of your choice, see fig.

In terms of operational parameters, all profiles are approximately equivalent. You only need to comply with three conditions:

• Within one surface (wall, pediment), the sheathing should be carried out with only one profile. It is impossible to put panels of different types next to it for the sake of beauty.
• Use only complete accessories for the panels, purchased together with them from the same batch.
• Adjacent surfaces, the ends of the panels of which are included in the same extension (corner walls, etc.), must also be sheathed with the same profile.

Video: the seller's opinion on the choice of siding

Material calculation

Step 1

Now you need to calculate the required amount of material. First, determine the size of the sheathed area. There are no problems with walls, windows and doors. The pediment is another matter. Proprietary methods recommend calculating its area according to Heron's formula, but it requires three measurements, and one has to be done from the stairs, and two - climbing with a tape measure on the roof. And if a house with an attic, a roof with kinks, and even unequal (for the sake of a larger living space, people do not even start up such tricks), then the error of an experienced craftsman may exceed the allowable value, or you will have to “hammer” a good portion of the material in advance.

In fact, measurements are best done with a long cord and a plumb line, see fig. At the same time, the areas of the triangle and trapezoid are calculated according to simple school formulas, and the required lengths are easy to accurately remove at the bottom by dropping the cord and plumb line. You can make precise marks on the cords by going up the ladder just once. A mark on the pediment is needed in case you have to re-measure. It is applied with chalk.

Then the number of sheathing panels is calculated. The area of ​​one panel is considered, discarding the width of the fastening strip and the lock tooth from its width. For the case shown in Fig. on the right, it will be 229 mm, and the area of ​​one 4.8 m long board is 1.1 sq. m. For trimming, experienced craftsmen lay a stock of 3-5% in area (siding is very economical in this regard); for beginners it is better to take it in 5-7%.

The next stage is the calculation of the number and range of additions. There is no single methodology for all occasions, because all houses are different. Therefore, a beginner definitely needs to draw a sheathing scheme for all surfaces and, working with it, pick up accessories. At the same time, you can more accurately calculate the required number of panels.

Note: siding panels are available in lengths from 1.2 to 6 m. It is advisable to sheathe a long wall so that it has a whole number of boards in length. As a last resort - 1.5, 2.5, 3.5, etc. boards. Based on this, they build a sheathing scheme.

Step 2

The next step is to calculate the nomenclature and the number of additional elements. There are many dozen of their varieties on sale, but the overwhelming majority of them are required for buildings of complex architectural forms. For ordinary houses, you can almost always do with the following, see fig:

1. sheathing panels (boards);
2. CD-profile or timber for the lathing;
3. platband (about them, see below, about the windows);
4. complex corners, external and internal, there are also simple corners, but it is almost never possible to get by with them;
5. soffit - a panel with ventilation holes for covering cornices;
6. start profile;
7. finishing profile, very often replaced by J-profile, see item 10;
8. H-molding is a profile for connecting cladding panels, if two or more panels need to be laid along the length of the wall.
9. wall ebb (aquilon);
10. J-profile, also known as J-channel, is a universal clamping element.

The finishing strip is replaced with a J-profile if the last trim panel has to be cut 1/4 or so in width. In this case, the J-profile holds it better than the regular finish. If the topmost board comes out solid or cut by about half, then a regular finishing strip is needed. These recommendations are valid for the most popular double-sided siding, “ship beam” and “herringbone”.

For single siding, the finish is replaced with a J-profile if the last board is cut by more than half. For triple and multiple in width, you should adhere to the following scheme:

• If the longitudinal cut falls on the low (closest to the wall) part of the tooth, leave the regular finish.
• If you have to cut closer to the top of the tooth, we replace it with a J-profile.

Errors and negligence

The following is unacceptable in the calculation of add-ons:

1. Replace starter profile with J-bar. It does not fix, but only holds the panel. And since an integer number of boards in width along the height of the walls rarely fits, then the standard finish bar is not always set. And it turns out that the sheathing is not snapped on top and bottom; such a wind blows at 7-12 m / s.
2. Replace the H-molding with two J-profiles with the backs facing each other. Water, dust, dirt will surely penetrate into the gap between them.
3. Save on Aquilon if the house is made hanging over the plinth, as in Fig. above. After sheathing, the regular dripstone stops working.

Note: replacing the starting profile with a J-bar is also unacceptable for sanitary reasons - in this case, it becomes a trough in which water stagnates.

About joining boards

With a whole number of boards along the length of the wall, they are joined by H-moldings (on the left in the figure), and with a half-piece, they are staggered (ibid. On the right). The latter method is in some cases more aesthetically pleasing, but on the whole much worse. Firstly, the wind resistance of the cladding decreases, and secondly, moisture inevitably penetrates through the cracks under the cladding. And from there she has nowhere to go, except in the wall.

Getting started with plating: technology and flaws

Working with siding is technologically very simple, but it requires the obligatory observance of three rules, see fig:

• do not tighten the locks and fasteners tightly, you need to leave a gap of about 1 mm;
• fasten the boards by driving hardware in the middle of the mounting windows, and not from the edge;
• do not push the cladding elements close to the ends, leave a gap of 5-7 mm.

These conditions are dictated by the thermal expansion of the panels, which is up to 12 mm along the length of the board and up to 1 mm along its width. Without their observance, the sheathing will inevitably swell or break the fasteners with the extensions.

Note: the maximum step of fixing the panels is 1.2 m, and the extensions - 0.6 m. But one piece of any length must have at least 3 attachment points, along the edges and in the middle. Jewelry keeping of the step is not required, if only the fasteners are in the middle of the lag.

Actually, the panels are laid in the following sequence:

1. we remove gutters, frames of windows and doors;
2. we make a crate, the extreme logs should fall exactly at the corners;
3. with a hose level, we mark the line for installing the starting profile, it must run at least 12 mm from the uppermost corner of the base;
4. we put the outer corners;
5. we put aquilon;
6. set a start profile;
7. insert the board into the grooves of the corners with the lock down and push it into the start until it clicks;
8. check the backlash vertically and to the sides;
9. we attach the board to the joists in the mounting edge;
10. in the same way, we put the rest of the boards from bottom to top, snapping each into the previous one and fastening to the logs;
11. we enter the last board into the penultimate one WITHOUT FIXING, mark its desired height and cut it to size in width;
12. re-apply the last board WITHOUT FIXATION, outline its edge along the lags;
13. we put the finishing or J-profile, retreating it with its back upwards from the marks by 6 mm;
14. bending slightly, we introduce the edges of the last board into the corners, its cut edge - into the finish or J-profile, and push up until the lock clicks into place.

Note: if the windows and doors will also be framed with siding, then first of all they need to be sorted out, aligning the slopes and frames exactly to rectangularity. But it's best to do without it, see below.

About soft start

Sometimes, for the sake of aesthetics, at the beginning of the cladding, first the starting profiles are placed, and the mounting surfaces of the corners are cut along them, as shown in Fig. bottom right. But such a technique, generally speaking, does not justify itself. The edges of the corners are almost invisible both above and below the wall, and their tips, devoid of support, soon begin to warp and now catch the eye.

About insulation

Insulation under the siding is elementary simple: after installing the dowels of the gutter brackets (see below), but before installing the lathing, we apply a vapor barrier to the wall, and after assembling the lathing, we put foam plates between its lags. There must be a ventilation gap of 10-15 mm between the underside of the crate and the foam.

There is only one drawback here: some overspending of hardware-fungi (or umbrellas), with which the foam is attached to the wall. One fungus will no longer be able to hold 4 adjacent corners of the insulation, as with solid sheathing with durable EPS, therefore, 5 fungi located in an envelope will be needed for each foam plate. But both in terms of money and labor costs, such an overrun is a mere minuscule in comparison with the general reduction in the cost / simplification of sheathing and insulation works.

Video: siding sheathing technology

Peculiarities

The above described technique is suitable for sheathing a blank wall, but such are found as an exception, and pediments are always not rectangles. When cladding a real facade, you have to bypass its structural elements, which we will now figure out.

Gutters

When dismantling the gutters, their brackets are also removed. The holes for them are expanded for propylene dowels, into which the old (or already new) brackets will then enter, and the dowels are driven into them even before the sheathing is installed. Next, we act like this:

• On the board and corner preceding the next dowel, mark the coordinates of the hole.
• In the next board, after installing it, we drill it along the coordinates, 12-15 mm wider than the diameter of the bracket, not the dowel! If, say, the bracket pin is 10 mm, then the hole should be 22-25 mm in diameter.
• At the end of the sheathing, we drive the brackets into the dowels.
• The gap between the bracket and the casing is caulked with foam rubber, neoprene (a strip of household toilet sponge), etc. soft porous material.
• Cut the caulk so that it protrudes 1-2 mm above the casing.
• Apply on the pin, caulk and casing, 20-25 mm to the sides, a layer of silicone sealant 1-2 mm.

Such insulation will reliably protect the skin from moisture ingress under it along the bracket pin. At the same time, the hardened silicone is quite elastic, and in a thin layer it stretches like rubber and will not prevent thermal deformation of the panels.

Windows-doors

For framing window openings, special siding parts are produced: slope profiles, platbands, window aquilons, etc. But the very variety of their assortment speaks more of the fact that siding is designed for covering large areas and it is difficult to frame openings for them.

There are generally two schemes for framing windows with siding: overlay and end-to-end, see fig. The first method better protects against moisture penetration under the skin, but the second is more aesthetically pleasing. In any case, the window-doors will have to be revised and repaired before cladding.

But the best way is not to go into the windows at all with siding. To do this, a continuous crate is made around each opening (on the left in the next figure) and frame it with a J-profile, as shown there on the right. The opening is simply bypassed with siding, and then they are made out using window and door technologies. This method also has the advantage that then windows / doors can be finished slowly one by one, and not all at once "take more - throw further".

Gables

There are two peculiarities in the cladding of gables. First, the pediment is completed with J-profiles, since the usual finishing strip does not hold the panels in an inclined position, and special cornice roads are almost never on sale.

Secondly, when sheathing the gable, both horizontally and vertically, you need to cut the ends of the boards exactly at an angle. This is done by trimming the panel, as shown in fig. right: the board is inserted into the molding, the cut is marked, the board is taken out, cut off, reinserted into the groove of the profile or the lock of the previous one and pushed into the J-profile. It is most convenient for a beginner to sheathe a pediment, divided vertically in half (or into 3 parts, if there is a window) with an H-molding.

Note: sheathing the pediment at the same time with the wall is possible only if they are laid out at the same time of brick. If the pediment differs in any way from the wall, the cladding on them must be divided by a horizontally laid H-molding. If the pediment is also with a ledge inward, then the wall must be finished with the finish, and the pediment must be started with an aquilon and start, like a wall.

Eaves

For a high-quality design of cornices, you may need, firstly, a special cornice molding, on the left in Fig. Then the berths are formed from above with a J-profile and a special cornice strip with a groove for soffits, in the center in Fig. Finally, the frames for the spotlights are formed along the inside with the same J-profiles, and the spotlights at the corner joints are separated by H-moldings. In general, the story with the cornices is the same as with the windows: their siding is justified when performed by a team of well-filled pros who hand over the trim on a turnkey basis "like candy". And for yourself it is better then to slowly trim it to your taste, the siding on the pediment will not hurt.

About metal siding

With metal siding you need to work with double care, it can bend irreversibly under its own weight if you hold the board flat on the edge. The second one is for metal siding extras other than plastic ones, see fig, and for a blockhouse - their own special ones. It has already been said about cutting metal siding, and its assembly scheme is generally the same as for plastic siding, see on the next page. rice. on right.

For a beginner who is going to "metallize" a house, it is better to do it with a blockhouse. Its smooth profile (in the middle in the figure) provides a sufficiently high rigidity for both bending and torsion, therefore it is not much more difficult to put metal siding under a log than plastic siding. Of the significant difficulties, only cutting remains.

Note: when installing a blockhouse, you should especially beware of skewing and jamming of panels. If the plastic from the accidentally snapped lock can still be ripped back without being crumpled, then the metal - in any way. Both the board and the add-on were gone.

Plinth trim

Plinth siding is carried out from the bottom up, like the rest. It has the following nuances:

1. Basement and wall siding must be taken from the same manufacturer and interfaced with each other.
2. Plinth siding is carried out only "horizontally horizontally" and, first of all, before the wall cladding.
3. No insulation is done.
4. Lag positions are marked from the top of the base; unevenness in relation to the ground is compensated by cementing, blind area, etc.
5. In the process of assembling the coating, an additional operation appears - trimming the panels for the entrance to the corner (see Fig.), Therefore, a careful calculation of the coating is needed so that too much material does not go to waste.
6. The panels are interconnected by two locks, the bottom and the side, so they need to be placed very carefully until the skill is developed. The exception is the first row, which slides in the start profile.

To pp. 1 and 2 require clarification. The fact is that the basement siding does not end with a finish or some special basement J-profile (by the way, all accessories for the basement are also special), but with a basement curb. This curb will be at the same time the starting profile of the wall cladding, no Aquilon is needed. It is clear that a “stranger” or one of our own, but not fitted exactly to this plinth, the wall siding may not fit into the curb. And if the wall was sheathed earlier, then the upper curb, if it gets up to take out the basement, will turn out to be a drainage basin, and you cannot fit the aquilon on top of it in any way.

Wood

Wooden siding is the same piece, and the techniques for working with it are the same, see pic:

• Start - rectangular bar.
• The inner corner is a square lath.
• Outside corner - sheathing board sawn along, is assembled overlap or flush.
• Assembly - on nails, according to the diagram in fig. on the right in the top row.
• There is no way to hide the fasteners of wooden siding, so the upholstery is processed with liquid nails to match the wood. At the same time, the joints are sealed, which, subject to preliminary impregnation with a fungicide, negates the likelihood of a bug or mold in the sheathed room. Outside - as nature will dispose of.

In this article I want to talk about how to install siding with your own hands. I will tell you why the house was clad with siding, and not other material. I will give examples of possible mistakes during DIY siding and how to avoid them. As a result, this article can become for people planning to install sidebars installation instructions from the selection and calculation of siding panels to the final installation of siding.

Introduction

It has been 15 years since the construction of my house was completed. The house is built of timber, inside the wall of the house is sheathed with fiberboard, and the facade of the house is sheathed with clapboard. I live on the east coast of Kamchatka, where winter lasts at least 5 months.

During this time, the outer sides of the walls of the house in winter were exposed to frost, evil cold winds, as well as frequent snowstorms, in autumn - to frequent rains and fogs. All these atmospheric phenomena negatively affected the condition of the exterior cladding of the walls of the house.

The lining of the outer wall cladding cracked, warped, cracks formed at the joints, it became noticeably colder in the rooms and a clear feeling of dampness appeared. The question arose about replacing the covering of the outer walls and, first of all, the northeastern pediment, which was the first to take on all the blows of the changeable Kamchatka weather.

I needed to solve two fundamental questions:

• What material to choose (the same lining, or something else)?
• Should the new layer be laid on the old cladding layer, or should the old one be removed and veneered again?

The answer to the first question was found quickly - the lining will not work. Why? Just after sheathed the house with clapboard again, I will have to paint it again every year, and anyway, after 10-15 years, the cladding of the house will have to be replaced. The house needs to be sheathed with such material so that it lasts a longer period, unlike the lining, does not require annual maintenance (painting) and so that this material is resistant to atmospheric precipitation.

After going through the various options, I decided to go for vinyl siding. Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation is quite simple, in addition, the siding itself is quite cheap, durable, does not require any repair and painting during the entire service life. Siding maintenance is also simple - it is enough to remove dust and dirt adhering to the top, you can even use a stream of water from a hose. Service life - up to 50 years. Temperature range - from -60 to + 60 ° С.

Siding. Vinyl panels

I chose panels with a length of 6 m (so that there was less waste, since my maximum gable length is 5.8 m). One such panel has an area of ​​1.37 sq. m. Not the last role in the choice was played by the price of these panels in our building stores - 180 rubles / m2 ($ 5.2).

The range of colors and shades of commercially available vinyl siding is very diverse. I chose the color "Sandstone" as it harmonizes well with the gray slate and white cornices.

Note: the reasons are indicated in fig. 3

The answer to the second question (how to sheathe a house with siding) is that I decided to attach a new layer on top of the old one. Why?

• First, I didn’t have to do unnecessary work to dismantle the old skin, which saved me at least one day;
• Second: if you remove the old cladding, then when sheathing the house with siding, most likely, it would be necessary to align the attached slats when attaching the sheathing so that their surface of the ends to which the siding panels are attached would be located in the same plane, and, by nailing them onto the old cladding, this is not necessary - since the walls already have a flat surface.

Siding calculation

After that, it was necessary to calculate the siding and determine the number of purchased panels and finishing strips for them. To do this, I carefully measured the pediment and made a detailed drawing of it at a scale of 1:25. Excluding the window openings of the house and the veranda, the total area of ​​the pediment was 22 m2. According to the drawing, he determined exactly where and what cuts from the six-meter panels would be installed, so he bought all the materials with a minimum margin for waste. As a result, there was practically no waste.

An example of calculating the area of ​​the pediment:

The calculation of the area of ​​the pediment, I did according to Heron's formula (calculation of the area of ​​the triangle):

S = √ p (p-a) (p-b) (p-c),

where the semi-perimeter was calculated by the formula:

p = (a + b + c): 2

The scheme for calculating the area of ​​the pediment

Now let's write the derived data, where

a - 8 m, b - 8m, c - 6 m

Calculation of the half-perimeter of the pediment:

p = (8 + 8 + 6): 2 = 11 m

Having calculated the half-perimeter of the triangle (pediment), I calculated the area (S) of the pediment:

S = √ 11 (11-8) (11-8) (11-6)

S = √495 = 22.25

The area of ​​the pediment is 22.25 sq.

Vinyl siding accessories

In addition to the panels, it was additionally required to buy:

• starting strip - 12 pcs. 2.8 m each;
• outer corner - 4 pcs. 2.8 m each;
• J-bars - 16 pcs. 2.8 m each;
• self-tapping screws - 600 pcs.

Note: J-bar as soon as they are not called: "J-channel", "Jay Channel", "Edging rail", "J-rail", "J-profile", and sometimes in stores and "Finishing bar", although this name refers to a completely different detail ... Hereinafter in the text we will call it the "J-bar".

Preparing for the installation of siding with your own hands

I decided to sheathe the house with siding with my own hands, since such works cost us on average 50% of the cost of materials. But why pay "extra money" when you can do this work yourself.

Before proceeding with the sheathing of the pediment, I had to start installing reliable scaffolding. It is unrealistic to work at a height of about 6 m while standing on a ladder. In addition, due to the lack of assistants, there was simply no one to hold the 6-meter end of the panel on the other side. In the old stocks of building materials, there were two 6-meter beams 150x50 mm and smaller beams with a section of 100x50 mm.

For the flooring I bought 40 mm boards (with the expectation that later I will dissolve them into veins for a new fence). I coped with this, hitherto unfamiliar job, quite easily ...

I started installing the siding with my own hands from the bottom of the house. But ... I will not get ahead of myself. I will write down all the work in order, in stages, what and in what sequence should be done, as required by the installation instructions.

The tool needed to work with siding

Basically, you need the most common tool that is well known to any summer resident who has ever been involved in construction or carpentry work. Here is a checklist of what you need to have on hand:

• roulette;
• metal ruler;
• metal joinery square (at least 30 cm long);
• hacksaw for metal with fine teeth;
• hammer;
• screwdriver (or ordinary screwdriver);
• awl;
• cutter knife;
• scissors for metal;
• twine and chalk;
• level (at least 60 cm long);
• pliers.

Preparing the wall surface for siding

Let not the most difficult, but very crucial stage, as well as the guarantee of a high-quality and successful siding installation - a thorough preparation of the base. First of all, you should remove all climbing plants and tree branches in contact with the walls. Remove downpipes, light fixtures and other parts from those areas of the walls of the house where they can interfere with the installation of panels.

If the cladding of the house with siding with your own hands will be carried out on the old existing cladding from the lining, as I did, then you must first carefully examine and assess the condition of the old cladding (if any) and the wooden elements of the wall structure. Lagging boards and panels must be nailed tightly.

Note: it is better to replace rotted boards, since the process that has begun under the sheathing will most likely not stop. It would be nice to additionally treat the problematic sections of the walls with an antiseptic.

House elements that need to be dismantled before decorating the house with siding

1 - quay, 2 - platbands, 3 - shutters, 4 - outer corner, 5 - wind boards, 6 - plank (transition) between the foundation and the walls of the house, 7 - outer window sill.

You will have to remove all platbands, if any - shutters, protruding window sills, as well as drainage and decorative elements around windows and doors.

When the listed parts are removed, using a long rail, plumb line or level, you can easily check how smooth the walls of your house are.

Vinyl siding panels are no more than 1.1-1.2 mm thick and are not capable of carrying any significant load. Therefore, when they are mounted on a curved surface, the slightest unevenness will also appear on the outer side of the skin.

Note: at this stage it was discovered that the window openings had been made by me once, to put it mildly, not strictly in terms of level. Or maybe the foundation has sagged.

In order to install the windows exactly in the window openings, I had to remove the glass from the windows, trim the frames and window blocks in order to fit them evenly into the window openings.

Window block installation diagram

1 - wooden lining (slats), 2 - window box, 3 - plumb line, 4 - level

When leveling the window blocks, I put pre-prepared slats under one of the sides, the length of which was equal to the width of the window block. The horizontal position of the window units was checked by level, and the vertical position using a plumb line.

Fragment of a wooden window frame

I also replaced the dowel in the joints of the window frames and reinforced them with metal corners.

Then the window frames and blocks were primed and painted. After the paint was completely dry, I inserted the glass, and at the same time replaced the cracked glass.

For more information on installing windows, you can read the article and.

Sheathing and wall insulation

For new buildings made of wood, lathing is usually not required. Siding can be mounted on any wooden walls, as well as on walls sheathed with chipboard, fiberboard, plywood and other similar materials. However, the walls of old buildings often have noticeable irregularities.

On such walls, it is necessary to install a crate of boards or slats. Do-it-yourself siding lathing is made of wooden slats with a cross section of 50x80 mm. I attached the slats to the walls with nails 100 mm long.

Lathing for siding from wooden slats

For horizontally oriented siding panels, the battens must be nailed (50 mm side) vertically at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. They should also be installed around windows, doors and other openings or openings, at all corners, along the lower and upper boundaries of the panel mounting area.

Note: simultaneously with the installation of the lathing, the wall can be additionally covered with insulation. To do this, I filled the space between the slats with 50 mm thick foam plates. But you can use not only foam for wall insulation, there are many other types of insulation that everyone chooses at their discretion.

For more information on wall insulation at home, see the article.

All instructions recommend mounting the siding on galvanized nails. Quote:"Nails should be aluminum or galvanized with a 0.9-1 cm diameter head. The nail stem should be 3 mm in diameter and long enough to penetrate at least 2 cm into the base."

On reflection, I decided that it was more convenient to fix the panels with screws - self-tapping screws. You can screw in the screw with a screwdriver (you can just use a Phillips screwdriver) using a magnetic nozzle, you can use one hand, but to nail a nail, you need both. This was the decisive factor in favor of self-tapping screws.

Setting up the starting strip

Installation diagram of a starting strip for siding a private house

I started the siding installation by installing the starting strip:

• first found the lowest point of the old skin;
• after, using chalk and a building level (you can use twine and chalk), I applied a marking line above the level of the old casing by 40 mm;
• I installed the starter bar so that its upper edge was located along the marking line, and attached it to the house - I did this work of installing the starter bars around the entire perimeter of the house.

Note: Since we are talking about installing siding parts, then we need to list the basic rules for fixing it (this applies to panels and accessories).

• Vinyl siding is nailed so as not to hinder its possible thermal expansion-contraction. To do this, you must always leave a gap of 5-6 mm between the end edge of the siding panel and J-strips, corners or other fittings. When installing panels in cold weather (up to -10 degrees), the thermal gap should be increased to 9-10 mm.

Installation (nailing) options for vinyl siding

• Do not fasten the siding too tightly to the batten or wall! Don't drive nails all the way! Leave a gap of approximately 1-1.5 mm between the head of the nail (or screw) and the vinyl panel. This is necessary for free expansion-contraction and to prevent sheathing from warping.

Gap options between nail (or screw) head and vinyl panel

• Nails (screws) must be driven into the middle of the oblong mounting hole, not from the edge - this may subsequently lead to panel breakage. Nails are hammered in with a step of 30-40 cm. After nailing all the nails, the panels should move freely to one side or the other horizontally within the width of the mounting holes.

Attention! Hammer in nails strictly at right angles! Even one bent nail, interfering with the free movement of the panel, can cause local "bulging" of the siding.

• The panel to be installed must first be connected to the bottom panel (or to the starting strip) and push up until the “lock” clicks into place. The panel can then be nailed down. At the same time, it must not be pulled or pressed strongly, it must hang on the attachment points without tension, maintaining its natural shape. Excessive tension can cause improper connection to other panels and parts. Avoid both excessively tight fastening and dangling panels.

• When installing platbands, shutters, electrical wiring and other parts, holes in the siding must be drilled 5 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners used. This will allow the panels to expand or contract freely with temperature fluctuations.

Installation of external corners

The outer corner is a part that covers the end edges of the siding panels at the corners of the house and allows you to mate the wall cladding located in two mutually perpendicular planes.

Outside corner of the siding panel at the corner of the house

I set the outer corner so that at the top it does not reach the cornice or J-bar by 6 mm, and at the bottom its end protrudes 8 mm below the level of the start strip protrusions.

Note: nails need to be driven in the center of the existing mounting holes, leaving the part to expand - contract with temperature fluctuations. The distance between adjacent nails is from 20 to 40 cm.

Corner piece for attaching siding

Sometimes it is necessary to close the top or bottom of the wall-mounted outer corner. The caps required for this can be made from pieces of J-planks with a length equal to twice the width of the outer corner.

Cover from a piece of J-strip for the outer corner of the siding

I bent the blanks prepared in this way and nailed them to the wall, and then inserted the outer corners into them.

Installation of J-planks around window and door openings

Installation diagram of the J-strip around a window or doorway

To fit the siding wall cladding to the window and door openings, I installed J-strips around the latter. The most difficult thing here is to correctly form the corner joints of the vertical and horizontal planks. This can be done as follows:

Joints of vertical and horizontal J-planks

First, in the bottom of the horizontal J-strip, installed above the window opening, I cut out an eyelet 2 cm long and bent it down. I did the same on the other side of this bar. Then I cut the front folded part of the J-bar at an angle of 45 °.

Joining the corners of the J-strip frame around a door or window opening

At the side J-strip of the framing in the bottom, I made a rectangular cutout 2 cm deep and connected the top and side strips. I connected all the other corners of the frame in the same way.

Installation of siding panels

I installed the siding panels in rows from bottom to top. First, he drove the lower edge of the first panel over the ledge of the starting strip, and then nailed the upper edge to the wall. The installation of the next row began only when I had completely completed the installation of the previous one.

All panels must stand freely, between their end edges and vertical parts (outer corners and J-strips), it is imperative to leave gaps of at least 5-6 mm.

Docking panels with molding

If the dimensions of the horizontally installed panels are less than the width of the wall of the house, then they have to be increased along the length.

Docking H-molding (profile)

I did this using a special docking H-molding (profile), which I installed in the right place on the wall strictly parallel to one of the nearest corners of the house or some other vertical structure on the wall.

Docking siding panels "overlap" "

Another way of joining the panels is also allowed when building them along the length - overlapping. In this case, each next panel should overlap the previous one in length by 2.5-3 cm, and the joints should be spaced apart.

When installing short panels in narrow openings, for example, between windows, I left the vertical J-strips not nailed from above, so that when inserting the panel, they could be slightly bent. I nailed these strips when the short panel was in place and secured.

On one side, the siding panels have a number of holes for fastening to the wall with nails and a protrusion of the locking part, which ensures the connection of the panels to each other. On the other hand, the longitudinal edge bent inward, this bend is the counterpart of the lock. The panels are mounted with an overlap - first, the locking part of the upper panel is brought into engagement with the protrusion on the lower one, and then the upper panel is attached to the base (crate) with nails or self-tapping screws.

Overlapping siding panels installation scheme

Conclusion

On finishing the house with siding, I spent about 22,500 rubles - $ 650 (the amount is indicated without taking into account the cost of the insulation).

Note: the surface area of ​​the walls and pediment clad with siding was 112 sq. m.

Preparatory work - minor repairs of old cladding, lathing and wall insulation, took me about 4 days, installation of siding panels - 3 days. In total, I spent 7 days doing the work of cladding the house with siding with wall insulation.

What happened? Let's take a look at the photo:

Photo of a house with an old cladding

• became

Photo of a house with new vinyl siding as a finish

Also, the siding finish and the installation of an additional layer of insulation brought me another positive point:

• before finishing the house, in a month at an average temperature in winter - 10 degrees, I burned about 480 cubic meters. m of gas, then after finishing the walls of the house with siding and their insulation, the gas consumption decreased to 380-390 cubic meters. m

• siding is also a reliable protection of the walls of the house from the effects of precipitation, which helps to increase the service life of the wooden structure of the house.

Attention! This article shows prices as of 2009.

Siding is a dry exterior and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially aerated concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not have a significant load on the foundation, therefore, such cladding is also used on old wooden houses.

The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it does not crumble like plaster over time, simple maintenance, excellent protective properties and a rich selection of shades and textures. The undoubted plus of siding is that you can give a modern look even to an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.

Tools and materials

Before sheathing a house with siding, you should check for the following tools:

• or a saw with fine teeth, scissors for metal,
• screwdriver and screwdriver,
• hammer,
• tape measure, square and level (laser tape will greatly simplify the work),
• a stepladder, the height of which will be enough to reach the roof of the house.

Siding manufacturers offer a complete range of elements and panels for cladding a house, even with a complex configuration. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of ​​the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts, a schematic plan of the house outside will facilitate this process.

Knowing some points will help to control or verify the calculation. So, accessories for installing siding include the following elements:

• Outer corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using whole elements for each outer corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then add up the length of all outer corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for the docking margin. The corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
• Internal corners are calculated in the same way. If the eaves will be finished with siding, internal corners are also used in the areas of its connection to the wall. In cases where the finishing of the cornice was completed earlier or will not be done at all, a finishing strip is used.
• For finishing the cornice, elements such as soffits and a wind board are used.
• The required length of the starting strip is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
• J-profile is used in the areas of connection of outbuildings, elevation differences and roofs of different levels.
• The perimeter of the windows is sheathed with a window strip, it must be taken with a margin so that the joining points are not visible. Also, for framing windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
• A drain bar or ebbs are installed around the perimeter of the basement, if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
• If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of the siding panels - the connection is made using the H-profile. It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are preserved.
• The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated by the formula: "((Area of ​​all walls of the house - area of ​​windows and doors) / area of ​​the panel) * 1.10"... A stock of 10% is required for the cost of trimming and scrap.
• For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of 25-35 mm, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. about 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a margin. If possible, then it is worth choosing self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not be rusty smudges after a few years.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing with siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, platbands, grilles, etc. All cracks in the walls, around windows and doors are sealed or with polyurethane foam. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, foam concrete walls can be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Installation of lathing

The first step is to mount the crate from a metal profile or wooden slats, since it is absolutely impossible to fix the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use slats 60 * 40 mm with a residual moisture of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.

Using a tape measure and a level, straight lines are marked on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the basement, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. In the future, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will skew.

Then, using U-shaped mounts, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to achieve their snug fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where the siding will have an additional load, for example, street lamps, as well as near corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. The vertical rails should not be connected in any way so that ventilation is not obstructed, since the lack of air flow will lead to mold.

Waterproofing and insulation

For wooden, aerated concrete walls, installation is required, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-proof membrane. If insulation is not done, then the film is fixed directly to the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance required for ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the lathing is rebuilt to provide a gap for ventilation.

Fastening guide elements

Installation begins with the installation of a drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. It is a rigid structure and is easier to fix flat than a flexible starter bar. Then a series of corner profiles. They must be rigidly secured with self-tapping screws at the top of the first hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.

If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should overlap the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. After, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached on top of the drainage. It should be 5 mm higher than the bottom edge of the corner profile.

Around the windows, window strips or J-profiles are attached so that the outer bottom edge is several centimeters lower than the inner one. The door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be sawn at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped by placing the upper planks on the side ones.

When installing H-profiles vertically in predetermined places, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and plinth so that the strips do not bend when expanding. A finishing strip is mounted under the roof or where the area provided for the siding ends.

Installation of panels

When all the guiding elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the panels. The first row is attached to the starting plate until the lock clicks from below, at the top the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row going up to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and firmly fix it, it should walk a little to the sides. The top row of siding ends with a finishing plank.

What do you need to consider?

Rule # 1. In no case should the siding panels be rigidly fixed. The material from which they are made shrinks in frost and expands when heated, fluctuations in length can reach 1%. This is the reason for the elongated shape of the mounting holes. The fasteners cannot be screwed in or driven through the panel, but only into the center of the special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the head. If this rule is violated, siding can simply burst with strong heat.

Rule # 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the slats and the guides (less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not bend when expanding. When cladding a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.

Rule # 3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cutting, so you should be careful and use a grinder.

With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is the service life that manufacturers promise.

Home decoration with siding Is definitely a profitable and practical solution. The cladding is made from a wide variety of materials, so it is not difficult to find the ideal option for brick, wood and concrete structures. Installation is extremely simple and accessible to any novice builder. And, finally, the material is durable and resistant to the effects of wind, frost and sun, and will protect the walls of the house from damage for a long time.

The last note in favor of siding is decorativeness. The decoration is carried out in all imaginable colors and textures, and can imitate natural materials - stone, brick, wood of different species. If you have the skills to work with construction tools, then sheathing the exterior walls of the house with siding will not be a difficult task for you. The material of this lesson will help you, and the video below will help you understand all the intricacies of facade decoration work.

Types of siding

Siding refers to a sheathing board or panel. To decorate the house from the outside, products in the form of lamellas are used. For cladding the basement, and sometimes the facade, panels are used.

The cladding is made from a variety of materials.

• Plastic siding - based on vinyl and acrylic polymers. The price of the plastic finish is minimal, while the user qualities are quite high: the material does not rot, does not crack, is insensitive to moisture and does not sustain combustion. It is readily used for decoration both outside and inside the house. Its disadvantages include low impact strength.
• Metal - panels are made of galvanized iron sheet, less often of aluminum. The fire safety of the material is absolute, the strength is much higher. However, the panels are much more massive, they are harder to mount. Metal siding is excellent at resisting corrosion as long as its polymer coating remains intact, so the outer steel coating must be monitored.
• Wooden - house decoration with external wooden siding is rarely done. The material is expensive, demanding to maintain and not as durable as metal. However, its unique heat and sound insulation properties, moisture wicking ability and amazingly beautiful appearance are worth all the effort. For a wooden building, this is the ideal exterior cladding option. The photo below shows the decoration of the facade of the house with siding.
• Fiber cement - combines all the positive qualities of the finish: completely non-flammable, insensitive to moisture, strong, durable and not susceptible to mold or fungi. Its disadvantages are weight and difficult installation. Vinyl and metal panels are connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove method. Fiber cement are laid with an overlap using a special fastening.

Decorating a house with siding with your own hands is a painstaking, but quite simple job.... Considering that the installation price for 1 sq. m is quite high, self-installation significantly reduces the cost of finishing the facade of the house with siding.

Preparation and preliminary calculations

The sequence of actions is almost the same for any type of material. The installation of the basement has some differences due to the size of the panels. To install the siding on the outer surface of the walls, you will need the following tools: a universal hacksaw with fine teeth and metal scissors, a screwdriver, a hammer, pliers, a tape measure at least 8 meters long, a level, a construction rope and a pencil. It is good if your partner will help you in your work.

Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the material consumption. The approximate amount of material is obtained by calculating the area of ​​the walls, basement and other elements - cornices, for example, and dividing the result by the length of the panel. A more accurate method requires creating a sketch. With a large wall length, the panels have to be joined. For this, a connecting H-profile is used. Docking siding in different parts of the facade looks extremely ugly. The sketch allows you to calculate the optimal arrangement of the panels, so that there are fewer connections, and the price of finishing the house with siding does not increase.

After purchasing the necessary material for cladding the facade, the outer surface of the walls is prepared. In the simplest case, their preparation is reduced to cleaning from dust, dirt, plants, dried lime and the like. If the facade of the house has been plastered from the outside, and the finish has become unusable, it is necessary to remove it. It is also necessary to dismantle the drainpipes, front lights, window sills and other external elements that may interfere with the operation.

In the case of finishing the house with siding with wall insulation from the outside, it is necessary to cover it with a vapor barrier film (vapor barrier), which protects the insulation from condensation.

Frame installation

After the walls are prepared, they directly proceed to the installation of the frame. The metal sheathing is definitely recommended for brick and concrete buildings as it is durable, strong and fireproof. Siding a wooden house involves the construction of a wooden frame. In this case, the crate is made of boards or slats with a cross section of 50 × 80 millimeters, nailing them to the wall with nails 100 millimeters long.

For wall siding, a vertical lathing is mounted. When cladding with plinth panels, both a horizontal and a vertical frame are used.

First of all, the elements closest to the corner are fixed. Verticality must be checked with a building level. Fastening is done with anti-corrosion nails (galvanized or aluminum). The distance between the guides is at least 40 cm for metal panels, and 30 cm for vinyl panels.

When facing a facade with insulation, the height of the lathing should exceed the thickness of the heat insulator layer. The material of the heat insulator can be different:

• mineral wool or fiberglass;
• basalt mats;
• Styrofoam;
• penoplex and so on.

The thickness of the insulation is selected based on the properties of the material and the requirements for thermal insulation of the building from the outside, which can be found in the reference book. The heat insulator is placed between the profiles. A gap of 1-3 cm should remain between the insulation and the siding. If the profile height is insufficient, then a counter-lattice is erected over the frame. From above, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing film, for example, isospan.

Siding facade finishing technology

Finishing the facade of the house with siding begins with securing the starting bar with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws. The next to be installed are the corner pieces and the connecting H-profile, if provided. Window and door openings are edged with a J-profile.

Next, siding panels are installed. The wall panel is installed in the starting and corner strips and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. Siding panels are assembled from the bottom up. Each next one is joined by the comb-in-groove method with the previous one and only then is attached. A correctly installed panel can be moved by hand to the right and left. Rigid fixation should not be allowed. Rigid fastening is allowed only when installing metal panels. When fixing vinyl and wood, a gap of 1.5–2 mm remains between the cap and the panel. The material changes in volume under the influence of temperature and moisture and is damaged when rigidly attached.

Siding produced for exterior decoration of the house has special holes on the fastening strip. The nail (self-tapping screw) must be placed in the middle of the hole.

The finish bar is fixed last. The last finishing panel is inserted into it from below. After that, all facade structures are assembled back into place.

How the houses look after they are finished with siding can be seen from the photographs presented.

Siding allows not only to protect the outside of the house from wind, high and low temperatures, but also to decorate it. Sometimes the decision on finishing is made not in order to protect the material of the facade, but out of the desire to return the attractiveness of the old building. Moreover, if the original color does not suit, or, as in the case of fiber cement panels, is absent, it is not difficult to repaint the siding.

The basement panels, imitating various natural stones, are especially beautiful. For greater effect, designers combine panels of different colors to decorate the basement itself and the facade. In the video, the decoration of the house outside with siding is presented in more detail.