Siding is famous for its simplicity and low cost to install. With the correct installation of the panels, it will last for several decades, without fear of sudden changes in temperature, wind or precipitation.

The duration of finishing works, their cost and quality directly depend on the skills of the installer. If you already have a little experience in construction, then sheathing a house with siding will not seem too difficult a task.

In this article, we will analyze step by step how to sheathe a house with siding with our own hands, and also tell you what materials and tools you need for this.

Home decoration with siding: preparatory work

Preparing to clad your home with siding begins with cleaning the exterior walls. First of all, all protruding parts that will interfere with the installation of panels are removed: gutters, brackets, ebbs and shutters on windows, door trims - everything that sticks out from the flat surface of the walls.

Private houses made of stone and brick are cleaned of old plaster, covering all cracks with cement mortar or foam. Wooden houses are cleaned of dirt and mold, and then covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Decorating a house with siding involves an accurate calculation of the required amount of materials. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the width and height of the walls in advance, then subtract the total area of ​​windows and doors from their total area. You also need to calculate the perimeter of the house and all window and door openings, so the total length of the connecting structures will become clear.

Material calculation formula: (area of ​​all walls of the house - area of ​​windows and doors) ÷ area of ​​one panel × 1.10

Only the useful area of ​​the siding panel is taken into account, that is, without the upper fixing part. 1.10 in the formula is a 10% stock of material that is usually spent on scrap with inaccurate trimming and final adjustment.

It is most convenient to use a schematic plan of the house - according to it, you can calculate the required number of panels by the piece, and you will immediately see where the full-length panels will go, and where trimming is required. Any siding manufacturer will help you with the calculations for free. Previously, this can be done in the online services "Alta-calculator" and "Alta-planner".

Tools and materials

For quick and easy installation of siding with your own hands, you practically do not need a special tool - it is enough that there is already in any private house.

1. Tape measure, square and metal ruler - for measurements.
2. The building level is at least 120 cm - to check the accuracy of the vertical installation of the battens and the accuracy of the horizontal laying of the siding panels.
3. Electric drill, screwdriver or screwdriver - for fasteners.
4. A cutter knife, electric jigsaw, a grinder or a metal saw (with small and sharp teeth) - any of these tools will be needed to trim panels. It is better not to use a hacksaw when installing siding in the cold season, because the panels can crack. The grinder should work only at low speeds: at a high speed of rotation of its disk, the material of the panels at the cut will melt.
5. A siding punch, also known as a punch, is needed to make the hooks to secure the siding to the finish bar.

The punch is the only siding installation tool that will have to be specially purchased. Photo # 1.

Connecting structures. Siding panels are not the only structural element that will be required during installation. They are connected to each other by special strips: starting, connecting, finishing, etc. Separate structures are used for facing window and door openings, as well as building corners. The use of additional structures allows you to sheathe a house of any design with siding.

Plastic structures used in the installation of siding. Photo # 2.

Areas of application of connecting elements. Photo # 3.

Insulation. A private country house, used only in spring and summer, in most cases does not need additional insulation. The house in which they live all year round is usually insulated with mineral wool - it is laid outside the building, in the cells formed between the sheathing ceilings.

Sheathing and insulation scheme. Photo # 4.

The batten is installed over the entire surface of the facade. It is primarily installed along the side surfaces of the building, corners, windows, doorways and other protrusions. The standard distance between the ceilings is 40 cm. But the heavier the panel, the less you need to do the lathing step. A denser crate should be on houses that are in the area of ​​strong winds and possible hurricanes.

Windows and doors are surrounded by lathing along the entire perimeter - a reinforced contour is created on which window and door frames are attached. Photo # 5.

Plain wooden slats are usually used as lathing in log houses. Their main disadvantage is the high probability of curvature. Therefore, it is important to choose only dry, straight slats without knots, thoroughly impregnate them with an antiseptic and install only in dry weather.

Another option is galvanized profiles. They are more versatile, but when installed in extreme heat, they can expand. When it gets colder, the siding trim installed on such profiles will deform.

The main advantage of polymer profiles is the quick and accurate installation of siding panels on them. Photo # 6.

How to install panels correctly

During the entire preparatory work, it is better to store the siding panels in a covered dry room, protected from direct sunlight, in a horizontal position on a flat surface, at a temperature from –30 to +50 ° С.

Fastening sequence. Siding panels are mounted on previously installed connecting structures: starting, connecting and corner strips. The cladding starts from bottom to top from left to right. First, the starter bar is attached. It must be mounted absolutely horizontally: the evenness of laying all subsequent layers depends on this.

The first bezel is inserted into the starter bar and pulled up slightly until it snaps into place. Then the panel is screwed to the lathing with screws through special mounting holes: the first screw is screwed in the middle of the siding panel in order to avoid its deformation in the future. When screwing in the screws, the panel must not be pulled up - it should hang freely under its own weight.

After fixing the first siding panel using exactly the same technology, the next one is installed on it. In order to clad the facade evenly and neatly, it is recommended to assemble the panels simultaneously around the entire perimeter of the house - in a circle, visually monitoring the evenness of the laying and checking the horizontalness of every third layer of panels with a building level. So there will be less waste during installation - you can immediately see where you can use the trimmed pieces.

The finishing strip is attached after the last layer of siding panels has been installed. In the uppermost panel, you need to make hooks - this will require a punch. Then these hooks snap into the finish bar retainer.

Expansion gap. The main rule of installation is that siding and accessories should move freely and not rest on anything. Due to the natural temperature fluctuations throughout the year, siding is subject to expansion and contraction. Therefore, when rigidly fixed to the crate, it deforms and goes in waves.

This is how errors look when calculating clearances for thermal expansion. Photo # 7.

It is imperative to leave 5–8 mm free between the siding panel and the side fastener. After mounting the panel, it should move freely to the left and right, but not dangle.

Fasteners. It is most convenient to attach the siding to the crate with galvanized self-tapping screws with a sharp tip and a wide head. They are not susceptible to corrosion and will not leave unpleasant rusty streaks on the facade over time.

There must be a distance of 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. The easiest way is to tighten the screw completely and then loosen it one turn. Photo # 8.

The screws are screwed exactly in the middle of the mounting holes so that the panels can move. Photo # 9.

Extension of panels. Often the length of the building is longer than the siding panel. In such cases, a connecting strip is used. In this case, the panels of standard length have to be cut. When calculating their length, it is important to remember the temperature gaps.

Installation of siding panels with a connecting strip (left) and extension of the overlapping panels (right). Photo # 10.

The second way to lengthen the panels is to overlap. So that the junction points are not striking, the joints of the next layers are made with an offset. But all the same, after a few years, due to thermal expansion between the overlapping panels, gaps will appear and the joints will become noticeable.

Facing the house with siding - video

For even more information on how to correctly and quickly sheathe a house with siding with your own hands, see the instructions of the Alta-profile company and on video.

Often the appearance of a wooden house begins to lose its attractiveness over time. From exposure to rain, frost and sun, the tree deteriorates. To return it to its former beauty, people often do the cladding of a wooden house with siding with their own hands. This material is lightweight, therefore it will not give a strong load on the foundation. It is quite easy to install if you prepare the necessary material and tools in advance. Siding trim is inexpensive, and a large assortment of types will allow you to choose the right one for you.

How to choose siding for finishing a frame house

Nowadays, walking along the street, it is impossible not to pay attention to the neat multi-colored facades of the buildings. Such an appearance on city and village streets appears precisely thanks to siding. The plinth and cornices are also made using this material, but still its main purpose is to decorate the facade of the house.

The main advantages of the material:

1. Siding is not afraid of the sun's rays, it is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.
2. Quite durable.
3. A wide range of colors.
4. The material is not afraid of torrential rains, since it is moisture resistant.
5. It's easy to mount, so you can do it yourself.
6. Combines perfectly with other materials.
7. If the siding is properly operated, then it will serve you for a long time.
8. Polyvinyl chloride, metal, vinyl are used as raw materials for the manufacture of siding.

Even if your house is already many years old, and its appearance has deteriorated over the years, then everything can be covered with siding. Moreover, in this way, the appearance of the house can be made unique. For example, wood finish will add warmth to your home, stone finish - seriousness and solidity. It's up to you to choose.

Vinyl

This material is based on durable plastic. It can be smooth or wood-like. There is a huge assortment of colors to choose from, and there are also shades of natural wood.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of vinyl siding

Wood

This species was the very first to appear on the market. A noble, expensive and environmentally friendly material. It also has excellent thermal insulation, but it will last for a relatively short time, moreover, it requires constant treatment with antiseptics.

Aluminum

Most often it is used for decoration of commercial premises, as well as public buildings. The main advantages are:

• fire resistance;
• waterproofness;
• strength;
• ease;
• long service life.

But you need to remember about its shortcomings. These include absolute instability to mechanical damage. Even during transportation, dents can appear, which are almost impossible to get rid of.

Cement

Nothing worse than an artificial stone. In its manufacture, high quality cement is used, to which small elastic fibers are added.

When decorating the facade with this material, you need to use a special mask so as not to inhale the dust generated during cutting.

Table "Advantages and disadvantages of cement siding"

Steel

It can be found on the facade of a residential or public building. The panels are coated with a polymer layer or powder painted. Smooth and embossed.

Table "Advantages and disadvantages of steel panels"

Zinc

Appeared quite recently. Has a gray or black anthracite color. It has the same advantages and disadvantages as steel siding, but the price is much higher, so it is rarely found.

Ceramic

For its manufacture, silicate materials with the addition of fiber are used. Such panels are first hardened, after which they are covered with a special hypercoating (inorganic or silicon-acrylic dyes), which is their ceramic surface. This allows you to maintain an attractive appearance of the siding for a long time, and protects them from the aggressive effects of sunlight.

It has this type of siding and other advantages:

• increased heat and sound insulation;
• resistant to fire;
• environmentally friendly material;
• lasting;
• does not fade;
• does not require special care.

However, ceramic siding costs much more than plastic or steel counterparts. For installation, a solid frame is required due to the large mass.

Plinth siding

When creating a basement finish, a durable polymer is used, which is mixed with various substances. It is done under high pressure. Visually, it can look like natural stone, brick or wood. Thick, moisture resistant and durable. It is easy to install. Has a wide range of shades. In addition, it does not change its properties with prolonged exposure to the sun and various weather phenomena.

There are a huge number of types of siding, and all of them are perfect for finishing a wooden house. The main thing here is to decide on the budget and appearance. The most democratic option would be vinyl siding, while copper and wood would be suitable for luxury lovers.

Material calculation

So that it does not happen that you did not have enough material or, on the contrary, you did not buy too much, you need to correctly calculate its amount. Making the right measurements is not difficult at all. To do this, you need a tape measure and a pencil.

Consider whether you need to finish all the walls of the house, or the siding will be placed only on the facade. If you chose the second option, then whether you will sheathe the pediment. All these points are important when measuring.

House measurements

This is done in order to know exactly the surface area that will be covered with siding.

If you have drawings of the facade with all measurements, then there will be no problems with determining the size of the house. If they are not there, then you have to do it yourself. Measure only the area that will be covered with siding, excluding windows and other similar structures. It is recommended to calculate the dimensions of each side of the house separately, as there may be minor deviations.

To find out the amount of material required, you need to measure the height and width of each wall. To determine the area, these parameters must be multiplied. Separately, it is necessary to calculate the surface area that will not get off with siding. It must be subtracted from the total. This will be the required amount of siding for a particular wall. Repeat these steps for other surfaces.

For convenience, draw a sketch of the house, where all the required measurements will be marked. You can also mark where and what siding will be located.

It is not worth buying the exact amount of material. Take it 10% more. The stock is made in case of marriage and the need for scraps.

Fractional elements

These are the details that will hold the siding planks in place.

Table: how to calculate the number of small parts

Name	Purpose	unit of measurement	How to calculate correctly
Starting bar	This fastener is used to mount the first row of panels. Most often, at the bottom and at the joints of different options for facing material.	Running meter	Divide the building perimeter by the plank length. Round up.
Finishing profile	Performs an aesthetic function. It is attached in the last row.	Running meter	Calculate using the starting bar method.
Internal and external corners	Fastening and decorative function. They are placed at the corner joints of the panels.	Pieces	Add the lengths of all corners of the building and divide the resulting number by the length of the part.
T- and H-bars	For connecting vertical joints.	Pieces	Depending on the number of joints, you need to purchase the same number of planks equal to the height of the house.
J-bar	It is used to connect the facade and roof.	Running meter	Add up the length of all diagonal seams.
Platbands	For window and door openings.	Running meter, pieces	It is necessary to fold all the perimeters of the openings.

In addition, you must have:

• soffits (they are used to decorate the under-roof space and roof overhangs);
• drainage systems;
• saw;
• drill screwdriver;
• hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• pliers;
• respirator;
• glasses;
• gloves.

If you want to insulate your house, then you need to take care of this in advance and purchase the appropriate material. You will also need a wind and vapor barrier, waterproofing and timber to build the batten. And, of course, scaffolding or stairs to work at the top.

Video: detailed information about the material

How to sheathe a wooden house with do-it-yourself siding: step-by-step instructions

Usually, building cladding with siding is resorted to in three cases:

1. If the house was built using regular or profiled timber, the appearance of which needs additional finishing.
2. If there is a need to additionally insulate the house, then heat-insulating material can be laid between the walls and the cladding.
3. If the building needs restoration.

How to prepare the surface of the walls

For this you need:

1. Remove all protruding structures from the facade of the house (drains, grilles from windows, lighting equipment, etc.).
2. Dismantle the old cladding, if any.
3. Clean the surfaces of the building from dirt, mildew, mold, etc.
4. Treat the walls with special antiseptics and fire-fighting agents.
5. Cover the communication pipes with sealant and polyurethane foam.
6. Clear the surrounding area (radius 1 m) from debris around the façade.

Installation of lathing

First of all, it is necessary to install wind and vapor barrier membranes. They are mounted with an overlap of 100–150 mm.

The next stage is the construction of the crate. For this, wooden beams are used, although sometimes a metal frame will also work. The width of the timber is from 2 to 4 cm, and the height is 4–8 cm. The exact size depends on whether the insulation material will be installed. The moisture content of the wood for the frame should be between 15 and 22%. It needs to be treated with an antiseptic and antipyrine.

Siding can be laid vertically and horizontally.

When mounting the batten, you need to follow these steps:

1. Attach the bottom rail directly above the plinth.
2. Secure the top bar.
3. Pull a thread between them, which will be a guide.
4. Place intermediate bars under the level.
5. Waterproof the insulation with a foil, especially if it is mineral wool.

Fasten the timber with nails or self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion protection.

The most protruding point of the facade will become a reference point for vertical deviations during the construction of the "skeleton".

When using insulation, leave small gaps for natural ventilation.

Paneling

Now you can start finishing the facade with siding:

1. Position the J-profile 40 mm above the end of the cladding, which will act as a starter bar.
2. Install the profiles to shape the corners.
3. Cut out the siding panels to the desired size and install them. The panels are fastened to the frame using galvanized self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to clamp them tightly, leave 1–2 mm gaps to prevent deformation of the cladding.
4. The final stage is the finishing plank and the installation of spotlights.

After siding, the building is truly transformed. You are able to give a second life to your home.

Siding is a material that allows you to decorate and protect the facade of your house beautifully, quickly and most importantly with high quality. Do-it-yourself siding of a house can be done without professional training. If you are a person "with hands", then our small instruction will be enough to understand and reproduce in practice the basic principles.

So, let's talk about the features of this amazing material, and find out the technology of its installation.

Types of siding and its main features

In general, the very phenomenon of such cladding as siding came to us from the distant past from our Pomors. Using this technology, they made light and durable ships, and later it was used to insulate houses in the north. A wooden plank was used as a material, which is siding in a literal translation into Russian.

This technology helped to significantly reduce the time for building houses, which is still used today, because such a solution is the most popular on "frame frames".

Modern siding

By design, siding can differ in lengthy (wall) and basement. The first is used for wall cladding and is a long panel, like plastic. The second one is made in the form of rectangular wide panels and is used, as the name suggests, for finishing plinths.

Modern industry is not limited to the use of only natural materials, therefore, it offers the following design options.

• Vinyl (PVC)- the most popular material among the people. Its peculiarity is lightness, complete immunity to water, reasonable price and pleasant appearance. It is also worth noting that PVC does not rot, is not affected by insects, does not crack or fade in the sun. The material is considered fireproof, since it only melts when exposed to high temperatures.

Vinyl siding is very easy to maintain, and the secret is that it does not absorb water, and therefore no dirt dissolved in it. The surface is washed with a brush and water from a hose.

The number of colors and shades on the market will please you when choosing. Vinyl faithfully imitates natural materials, if you do not look very closely.

• Metal... Here you can find two options - either aluminum or galvanized steel. Especially there is no point in describing the advantages - everyone is already in the know. Let's just say that steel models look rude, plus they have more weight, so you can't find them so often.

The indisputable advantage of aluminum is also the fact that it is absolutely not subject to corrosion, which is of great importance for outdoor use.

• KDP Is a modern material that looks no worse than natural wood. The basis of the composite is wood flour and polymer additives. As a result, the material gets very interesting properties: it is durable, does not fade in the sun, is easy to clean and is not afraid of water at all. Moreover, it will cost less than natural wood, which, by the way, is also used as a material for siding.

• Fiber cement- the basis of the material is made up of cellulose fibers and cement. The surface of such a siding is invoiced using a special technology, which results in a reliable imitation of wood, stone, brick and other things.

Of the advantages, the following can be distinguished: it perfectly tolerates sudden changes in temperature, is not afraid of moisture, ultraviolet radiation, or mold. It is non-flammable and has a long service life.

• Ceramics- in general, ceramic siding belongs to a subspecies of fiber cement, which simply has a textured surface in the form of ceramic spraying. Such panels are also called self-cleaning, since only rain outside the window is needed for maintenance, which will easily wash away dust and dirt. As far as we know, Japan is a country that is constantly disturbed by earthquakes, therefore it is especially important for them that the material can withstand all loads. They developed their own version of ceramic siding, with the addition of clay to the main composition of the material.

So, why did we list all types of siding, because the topic of the article concerns installation?

It's simple - the fact is that, although they all have the same purpose and a similar shape, they are mounted in different ways. That is why this information will be useful when purchasing material. We will analyze how the siding of a house is done with our own hands, if it is made of vinyl.

Vinyl siding home decoration

Both long-length and basement panels are made of vinyl. It is not surprising, since the material copes well with all possible loads.

Preparatory activities

Any work begins with an inspection of the object, taking its dimensions and preparing surfaces.

• In our case, we must identify violations of the geometry of the walls, basement, window and door openings, if any.
• The information obtained will help to understand where it is better to start the cladding, and how far it is necessary to move the frame away from the main walls in certain places for alignment.
• To work, you need a measuring tape, a cord and an ordinary plumb line.
• After we inspect the walls for the presence of protruding parts (reinforcement, nails, cement mortar flows, etc.), which must be removed.
• Further, platbands are removed from doors and windows, plums, etc., which will interfere with work.

Advice! If you find cracks and other damage on the walls, they must be promptly repaired. You can see how to do this in the attached video.

Plinth finish

Let's imagine that we want to finish the entire facade with vinyl material and we will start with the plinth.

Basement siding - do-it-yourself house cladding

• The basement panels are much wider than the wall panels, and this is done so that the finish does not look prefabricated. The average panel size is 65 * 110 centimeters, although there may be other options. This height is more than enough to close the basement of a private house.
• The difference between this siding and wall siding can also be observed in the texture of the material. If the second option mainly depicts wood, then the first one resembles the materials that are used in the decoration of the basement: this is brick, and natural stone, and tiles, and ceramic tiles.

Advice! This type of cladding also looks great on the gables of buildings, so you can often find a combination, which gives the facade a beauty and originality.

• From this we can conclude that the basement panels are also suitable for finishing the main part of the walls. Moreover, wall panels can be used as basement panels, but this is done extremely rarely due to the fact that this solution does not look very good. To make the building look beautiful, we advise you to separate these areas not only by texture, but also by color.
• If both the base and the wall itself are in the same plane, that is, flush, you can go through the entire surface at once, as is done in the next photo.

Wall siding - from ground to roof

However, as you can see, the monotony of the cladding was still diluted, highlighting one of the protruding parts of the facade with another profile - a very interesting and elegant solution.

Frame

Siding is installed on the walls of the building on a special frame, the configuration of which must correspond to the dimensions of the material used.

• The frame for cladding can be made of wood or a special metal profile. The first option will be somewhat cheaper for you, but the second solution will last longer. The metal is not afraid of humidity and temperature changes, it has the correct geometry, which seriously speeds up the process of leveling the walls.

Interesting to know! The steel profile is protected from corrosion by the zinc coating, therefore, its abrasive cutting of the profiles is not allowed. The fact is that when heated, zinc spraying evaporates, opening the way for unnecessary rust.

We sheathe the house with siding with our own hands - metal frame

• You can take the most common profile for the frame, which is designed to work with drywall. In total, there are two types of them: guide 27 * 28 or 50 * 40 and the main 27 * 60 or 50 * 50 - choose yourself, because there will be practically no difference in strength. It all depends on how well you strengthen the frame.

Advice! It is very important to buy a durable profile. If you are offered an unknown manufacturer, then take one profile in your hand and just estimate its mass and try to wrinkle it slightly in your hand. When the metal gives in easily and behaves like foil, skip the purchase and overpay a little for a better material. If the stiffness is palpable, then you can safely take it.

• So, the guide profile must be connected to the blind area with dowels. The lack of a solid and level base will complicate installation and alignment. In this case, a metal corner with a wide shelf is attached around the entire perimeter of the basement, on which, if necessary, the insulation can lean, and a guide profile will be installed.

• If you are sheathing a frame structure, then before continuing to mount the frame, you must close the entire facade with a layer of waterproofing. Usually a membrane film is used for this, which does not allow water to pass through, but is not an obstacle to gas exchange. In the previous photo, you can see such a solution.
• If your house still needs insulation, then we put a layer of thermal insulation in front of the waterproofing. Usually these are mineral wool slabs that can be installed inside the frame of the building. If the house does not have its own frame (brick), then the frame for the siding will hold the insulation, Usually the bent ears of the suspensions act as fixators.
• By the way, this information refers more to the main walls, since the basement is waterproofed mainly with bitumen mastic or impregnations.

• According to the dimensions of the purchased panels, we determine the distance between the frame posts.
• At this step, we make markings on the wall so that you can see where to install the suspensions.
• Further, the suspensions are attached along the outlined lines using self-tapping screws or dowel screws, depending on the material of the walls.

Advice! If the dowel-screw does not hold well in the wall (got into the void), then it is not at all necessary to transfer the attachment point. Just screw a couple of additional screws around the edges from the main screw, for wood. In 90% of cases, the fasteners will be fixed as they should.

• Further, vertical posts from the PP profile are placed in the guide profile. They are connected to suspensions with galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer. In this case, it is important that all racks are in the same plane.
• Therefore, you need to correctly set the two extreme elements, firmly fix them, and then pull a nylon thread between them, which will serve as a guide for the remaining racks.

• All racks must end at the same level, which is determined by laser or water level.
• On top of the basement frame, either a PN profile is placed, or such a connection through a "tongue", as in the photo above.
• If the base / plinth has a decent height and the width of one panel is not enough, a jumper from the PP profile is mounted at the required level (the junction). All connections are conveniently made using "crabs".

Advice! In this case, it is worth remembering that the upper row is always left intact, and the lower one is cut in height, that is, the position of the jumper is measured from above.

Working with siding

The information in this chapter applies not only to basement panels, but also to wall panels, since the decoration of modular vinyl wall panels is practically the same.

• If you have completed the work with the frame, you can proceed to the direct installation of the panels.
• It all starts with accessories. The photo above shows the starting bar, from which the sheathing begins. The shape of this element depends entirely on the profile of the siding itself, but the principle is the same everywhere - the strip has mounting holes and a profile of such a shape that the first panel can be partially held due to it.
• We wind the starter along the bottom edge of the frame. Its length is 2.5 meters, so building is done. However, remember that the elements cannot be placed end-to-end. Due to the possible thermal expansion and deformation of the material, a gap of 12 mm is left - the same applies to the abutments to the corner fittings, only the distance is made less - 6 mm.

• Next, the outer and inner corners and the finishing profile are attached, which will cover the trimmed parts of the panels.

• Sheathing starts at the corner.

• If you took panels for cladding that imitate brickwork with an offset, then it will have protruding elements from the end, as in the picture above. To perform a normal docking with the corner element, it is necessary to cut off the excess parts. This can be done with different tools, but it is most convenient to use an electric jigsaw or a grinder. Scissors for metal work as an option, but this is long and harder.
• The corner piece has a groove into which the panel is inserted. You should not put the element close to it in order to avoid the same thermal deformation.
• On top of the panel there are mounting holes through which self-tapping screws are screwed in.
• The next panel is connected through locks to the previous one, and is also screwed on with self-tapping screws.
• To prevent the rows from skewing, it is necessary to set the starting bar exactly along the line. Why is it worth using not an eye gauge, but a normal measuring instrument or at least a stretched cord.

A plinth sill is placed on top of the cladding, which will protect the cladding from water ingress.

Subtleties of wall cladding

Long siding has a completely different shape and profile, and is sheathed like regular plastic. Various accessories are attached to the material, which helps to complete end connections, refine window and door openings, corners of the structure, sew up the gables, and, in fact, start and finish the finish.

• The frame for such sheathing does not need jumpers, and the sheathing belts are located in increments of standard 40 centimeters. By the way, as a result, the siding can be mounted vertically - the belts of such a frame should have a perpendicular direction.
• They start cladding the walls only after the finish of the basement is completed, which, as we have already said, ends with a basement drain. It will be impossible to carefully mount it afterwards.
• The work will not differ much from the one already described. We start by attaching the starter bar, which will cover the mounting part of the drain. Do not forget about the clearance for deformation, and also do not tighten the fasteners tightly. In fact, the panels should hang from it.
• Next are the outer and inner corners. If the length of one element is not enough to cover the entire height of the building, then they need to be joined. This is how it is done. We fasten the lower part as usual, and the second one has a perforated part by 2.5 centimeters, leaving only the front part. The plank is overlapped by 2 centimeters - the remaining distance is needed for the vertical expansion of the PVC.

Important! You need to install the fasteners in the middle of the mounting hole, otherwise the sheathing can lead when heating or cooling.

• Next, a corner-window strip is installed along the perimeter of window and door openings. This element also has grooves into which siding will be inserted.
• A finishing profile is attached under the cornice, and a connecting profile at the end joints of the panels, if any. If the profile is not available, then overlapping panels are allowed.
• After fixing all the accessories, filling the space between them with siding panels begins. They are also attached to the frame with screws or nails from above, while the lower part is held by the starter bar.
• You need to fix the panel from the middle, moving towards the edges. Along the way, the required level (horizontal or vertical) of the element is controlled.
• When passing obstacles in the form of windows and doors, the planks must be trimmed.

• For convenience, a long longitudinal cut can be made with a hard clerical knife, after a preliminary cross-cut.
• You will also need to trim the entire length of the finish panel. Do this according to the actual measurements, slip it into the corners, insert it into the finishing strip and snap the element.

Sometimes siding collections are equipped with whole elements instead of conventional corner profiles, which visually are a continuation of the basement siding. Installation of such parts is carried out in the same order and according to the same rules.

Finishing gables

For gables, panels differing in appearance are used, called soffits. The use of this particular material will create a finished look of the facade, simultaneously providing a ventilation effect. The finishing of this element is carried out even before the wall cladding begins.

• Mark a line on the frame parallel to the bottom edge of the pediment.
• A profile of the "J" type rotates according to the obtained markings.
• We do the same on the edge of the pediment, carefully making sure that both planks are strictly opposite. That is, it turns out that their grooves look towards each other, which allows you to insert panels there and fix them.
• The piece of panel to be mounted must be 12 mm shorter than the distance between the distal edges of the strips. Naturally, it is centered.

• In the places where the walls turn, the soffits are trimmed by 45 degrees, and cover the cut points and help to hold the cladding, the same j-strips, paired and installed, as shown in the photo above.
• The vertical parts of the gables are sheathed in the same way as the main walls. To pass windows of a non-standard rounded shape, which are often placed in attics, you will need to find a flexible vinyl profile.
• By the way, if the facade also has rounding, for example, a bay window, flexible siding is also used, otherwise you will have to turn this element into a polyhedron.

That's all. As you can see, cladding houses with siding with your own hands is not very difficult. All elements fit easily, the main thing is to take care of an even base and cut everything exactly. In addition, watch the video in this article for an even better understanding of the sheathing process.

Such a question as the cladding of a wooden house with siding worries almost every owner of such buildings. The finishing material is very popular due to its reasonable cost, simple installation technology and interesting appearance. But this does not seem to everyone, people who first encountered it have no idea not only how to fix the panels, but also about the operational characteristics.

Do-it-yourself installation of the crate

Any do-it-yourself siding installation on a wooden house begins with the fact that you need to prepare the main coating. As is often the case in our country, the walls of the house from the outside are not perfect, therefore, a crate is needed, with the help of which irregularities are compensated. The base can be assembled from galvanized, aluminum profiles or wooden beams. In this case, you can be guided by several principles:

• The metal crate will last longer and will not warp from temperature changes and changes in air humidity like a wooden one;
• Wood, in turn, significantly saves the budget, and the material is easy to work with (for an inexperienced worker).

Common vinyl siding, block house and basement siding are very popular in our country. All these types are mounted horizontally, from bottom to top. Therefore, in our case, consider the installation of the frame directly under these types of materials. On our own behalf, we add that boards made under the "chopped log" look very beautiful.

General Provisions

When decorating a house for siding, vertical racks must be placed at a distance of 50 - 60 cm from each other (you need to mount the crate, on which the basement siding will be fixed, at intervals of no more than 40 cm).

Before starting work, it is advisable to remove from the surface of the walls any irregularities that may interfere with the installation of the frame, and, if necessary, insulation.
As mentioned above, the position of the profile for siding should be vertical, so the procedure should be as follows:

1. On each side of the wall, a vertical is weighed, and 2 profiles are set along it;
2. The top of one is connected to the top of the other with a line. With the bottom, similar actions are performed.
3. Following a given interval of 0.5 or 0.4 m (depending on the type of material), the following verticals are fixed, on which the siding will need to be attached;
4. The frame around the window and door openings must be assembled from all sides, since the siding will be attached to it.

Lathing made of wooden beams

Wooden crate for siding on a wooden house will allow you to save some on costs. At the same time, one should be very careful about the condition of the wood. The timber should be free of the following defects:

• Fiber delamination;
• Deformations;
• Rot, black or blue spots.

Immediately after purchase, all material should be laid in the shade, in a horizontal position and treated with an antiseptic.

useful in work

Since the repair is done in a wooden house, it does not hurt to treat all the walls with these liquids.

Galvanized profile lathing

In the case of using a metal profile, at a distance of 50 or 60 cm from each other, you should mark the lines along which you will need to fix the suspensions or brackets (this is necessary so that the fasteners are located strictly vertically relative to each other). The number of elements per 3 meter profile should not be less than 6 pieces. The convenience of their use lies in the fact that the unevenness of the walls of the houses can be compensated by the numerous holes in the suspension.

Do-it-yourself house insulation with mineral wool under siding

How to properly insulate, and not throw money down the drain? This is the question many building owners are asking. In this situation, there is only one correct answer; the only heat-insulating material that is recommended for finishing the house from the outside is mineral wool and its analogues (stone, slag). The use of expanded polystyrene is not recommended in this case. Polyfoam does not have sufficient vapor permeability, which does not allow it to be used as an insulating material for wood houses.

Step-by-step instructions for installing thermal insulation depend on the material from which the crate will be assembled. In the case of using wooden elements for these purposes, the insulation plates are pressed against the surface of the walls of the house by the bar itself, on top of which another frame is mounted, it is on it that the siding for the wooden house is attached.

Using metal material (profile and suspensions) for the installation of the battens, the situation with the insulation of the facade is somewhat simplified. The ends of the suspensions, fixed on the wall of the house, are bent perpendicular to the surface, and thermal insulation plates are put on through them. This should be done carefully, gradually piercing the hole with each side of the suspension. The higher the density of the insulation, the more difficult it is to do this.

After fixing all the plates with special plate nails and closing the wall, you can begin the installation of the battens. The only thing to remember is to check the tight fit of the thermal insulation to the surface. In some cases, the insulation is additionally fixed with glue.

Advice from the "facade"

Do-it-yourself insulation of the foundation (blockage) of a wooden house

Often for wooden houses, finishing of the foundation and the so-called embankment is a headache. Due to the fact that the houses are very old, their lower part is significantly dilapidated, and in some cases has rotted, therefore it was lined with bricks. In such cases, they can be insulated using extruded polystyrene foam. The material is not afraid of moisture and rodents, therefore it is ideal for these purposes.

Installation of boards is carried out in the same way as in the case of mineral wool. The only difference is that it is recommended to foam the joints between the sheets. This will make it possible to talk about the complete sealing of the foundation. In the future, you can sew up this part of the house with basement siding with imitation brick.

Installation of siding on the crate

The technology of cladding a wooden house with siding implies the exact fulfillment of the manufacturer's requirements for working with the material (the conditions are indicated on the package). The main one is the observance of temperature gaps.

The fact is that plastic panels, when heated, are able to expand by 1 - 2 cm, while cooling, on the contrary, they narrow. You need to know this and leave free space between the finishing elements, depending on the ambient temperature.

Basic steps

In order to transform your home on your own, you need to know how to sheathe siding according to all the rules, so you should do this work in the following order:

• At the edges of the wall surface, you need to set the corners. External or internal, it depends on each building individually.

It doesn't matter what material is used: ordinary vinyl siding, basement or metal siding, work begins with fixing the corners, starting profile and planks.

• The following steps are necessary in order to sheathe a wooden house with siding involves the installation of a starter profile. The plank must be fixed to the wall exactly level. The quality of the work performed depends on this;
• If the length of the walls exceeds the size of one panel, you need to choose the location of the connecting "H - profile". It is desirable that it be placed symmetrically to the other or to the edge of the surface. For example, in the middle of a window, doorway, or so that it divides the entire surface into equal parts;
• Siding installation technology involves sequential installation of panels into each other from bottom to top. For this, there are special locks that firmly fix the connection. The first strip must be installed in the starting strip by snapping the connecting lock;

useful in work

When the ground level is uneven, the "J - trim" strip is used as a starting profile. Such a strip will allow you to cut the first strip of the panel diagonally and fix it without violating the appearance and technological requirements. The next stripes are captured sequentially.

• Vinyl siding is fixed to the crate with self-tapping screws. In this case, you do not need to twist them completely. There should be a gap of 2 - 3 mm between the head and the panel. It is necessary so that the element can narrow and expand when temperature conditions change (finishing a house with metal siding does not require compliance with such conditions);
• Having reached the top strip, you need to install a finishing strip on the wall;
• Having measured the distance from the upper edge of the fixed panel to this strip, cut out a blank from the new strip and make the locks for the latches that are in the finishing one with a special knife;
• Install the uppermost panel and make sure that the locks cut in it snap into place and prevent the strip from falling off. When finishing the wall from the outside with siding, it is imperative to cut out such latches. This will prevent the top element from falling out in strong winds;

The installation of siding on a wooden house is carried out sequentially, according to the previously indicated instructions, until the flat surface of the walls is completely closed.

Siding gable trim

Having finished sheathing a wooden house with siding, you should trim the upper protruding elements, gables. First of all, the outer corners and G-trim strips are fixed on them. If the location of the corner is clear, then the situation related to the bar requires clarification.

It is mounted on the lower horizontal ground part, covering the finish, which ended with the main surface. One more element needs to be fixed on the upper vertical "step", it is advisable to raise it as high as possible, pressing it against the roof covering from the inside. The siding of the pediment can be performed using special strips or by "cutting" the remnants of the material from the common surface. In this case, there will be practically no waste, and the color of the whole house will be the same. The work procedure is the same. Finishing is carried out without insulation, short sections of the required size are cut and fixed on self-tapping screws with the obligatory "under-tightening" to the stop.

Additional useful information

Knowing superficial information on how to sheathe a wooden house with siding with their own hands, many do not think about the numerous nuances associated with this work. They are equally important, so it is recommended to take them into account:

• Plinth siding installed close to the ground can warp (burst) due to the movement of the ground when the temperature changes. It is advisable to leave a gap of 1 - 2 cm;
• Before you start decorating a wooden house with siding with your own hands, it is recommended to visually check the joints between logs or beams. The outer wall is often damaged by insects or fungus. If necessary, replace the rotten area or foam it;
• Installation of siding on a wooden house built less than 1 year ago is not allowed. The walls should shrink;
• Basement siding is installed in only one order. Strictly left to right and bottom to top. If an incomplete panel is required to complete the row, an additional crate may be required for it. The horizontal lintel is installed without hangers, on 2 extreme verticals;
• While renovating an old village house with new plastic windows, minor problems can arise. Sometimes, the frame can be installed "not on the level, but on the wall." This is done in such cases when the differences in the thickness of the slopes between the top and bottom are very large. In this case, this opening should be finished only after a careful assessment of the situation. In any case, this error will come out somewhere. Either the thickness of the slopes will be uneven or the run will float up somewhere else. This is the complexity of finishing a wooden house with siding.

Sheathing your own wooden house from the outside with siding is not so difficult. To do this, you will need an assistant and a little skills in working with the tool. But after the completion of the work, the design of the walls will become individual and definitely will not leave anyone indifferent.

Today we will consider how to sheathe a house with siding in different versions. This process is not so complicated, but responsible. Below are instructions for performing this work, because here you will need to take into account certain details that will affect the quality of the cladding. You will be offered a video in this article and a photo that will make your work easier and prioritize.

Siding fixing rules

How to sheathe a house with siding video will tell you about the features of the work and their sequence. Everything can be done with your own hands, then the price of the cladding will not be significant.

There are a lot of video tutorials on how to sheathe a house with siding, but you don't always remember everything and you need to have a printed version on hand, the instruction will never hurt.

Preparatory work

Instructions for cladding a house with siding begins with the preparatory stage. After all, the correct geometry and durability will depend on this. Often, searching for a simple pencil in the process of work can take much more time than the finishing itself, so the availability of the tool and everything you need to take care of at the very beginning.

In fact, the list of tools required for cladding a house with siding is not large, and, as a rule, all this is in the home master's kit, but it is possible that some things still need to be purchased, so we give a detailed and complete list:

• Pencil, tape measure, possibly chalk thread, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking the walls.
• Building level, and preferably a laser one, since it speeds up the work process, although given that its price is quite high, not everyone can afford to buy it. Therefore, at worst, you can get by with a simple water level with a horizontal and vertical eye.
• Construction or office knife with a set of sharp blades... For more convenience, you can use a fine-toothed metal hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.
• Electric screwdriver with a bit for cross screws. You can use a conventional drill with low RPM and an appropriate attachment.
• Ladder stepladder or scaffolding depending on the height of the house.
• Hammer, which no construction site can do without.
• Well, and of course the most important tool is the hands of the master, growing from the right place.
• Rotary hammer and drill to it, with a diameter corresponding to the selected dowels.

Attention: You must use a hand hacksaw for cutting. But the tooth should be small. Otherwise, the panel will bite and will not get an even cut.

Materials (edit)

Now consider for house cladding. It can be different in width.

So, first of all, you will need to make the correct calculations, because there should be as little waste as possible. You will also need a lot of materials, without which a high-quality finish simply will not work, so here is a list that is not complete and may vary slightly depending on the characteristic features of your house and facade.

So:

• You will need materials for the lathing. It can be made of wood, but wooden blocks can also be used. Then you will need to pre-treat with antiseptics, they will extend the life of the tree.
• You will also need deep penetration impregnation or soil with an antiseptic for pretreating the walls from fungus and mold.
• Metal fasteners for perforated guide profiles, which we will need at the stage of installation of the battens.
• The guide profiles themselves, preferably with a galvanized coating, since they are not subject to corrosion and will last much longer than steel ones.
• Insulation (see).

Attention: Always take a small supply of panels, they will be very useful in case of accidental marriage or later, when the finish is accidentally damaged.

Preparing the facade for finishing

House cladding with siding instructions also take into account the correct preparation of the base plane. You will immediately need to prepare the place, because you will not be able to complete the work on the ladder. You must move freely.

This point is also taken into account by the instructions for sheathing the house with siding:

• First of all, everything is removed from the walls. It is also worth removing not only the hinged elements, it is also worth removing the previous coating in the form of plaster.
• After removing the old finish, I wash the facade with a high pressure water jet from a hose. You can also use a household car wash, which will knock out all the dirt and dust, even from hard-to-reach places.
• Now the walls must dry thoroughly, after which primers or impregnations can be applied, and the more abundantly they are applied, the better, here the principle “you cannot spoil the porridge with oil”.
• We immediately determine the height of the attachment, because some do the insulation of the plane at once. This must be taken into account. The insulation should not be deformed by the panels, otherwise it will lose its properties.
• Immediately we do the marking of the lathing. We will have a strapping along the contour. On the crossbars, it is necessary to make a markup and for this a plumb line is used. The line should be completely vertical. The distance between the crossbars is selected according to the width of the insulation, but should not be wider than one meter.

Attention: The base plane must also be treated with soil. It is worth giving preference to a deep penetration liquid. It will be most acceptable.

The average drying time of soils is 1-2 hours, and even less in summer heat, so after a short smoke break, you can proceed to the next stage.

Lathing and insulation

The lathing (see) is the frame on which our siding panels will be attached, and you need to start its installation by applying markings to the walls, and here the building level will be the main tool.

So:

• First of all, we need to define the bottom point from which the panel set will begin. The laser level greatly simplifies this task, it is enough to install it at one corner, and now a perfectly straight line is drawn along two walls.
• If it is not there, then we simply apply a level with a water eye to the wall and draw a line along it along the entire perimeter of the house. The main thing here is not to juggle, because a skew of just one millimeter can completely skew the finish.
• So, our horizon is ready, and now it needs to be divided into equal sections of about 30-50 centimeters, and in order not to carry out mathematical calculations, many builders use the division method. That is, the wall is divided exactly in half, and then each resulting segment is halved again. Now we already have 4 segments, and we continue dividing until the distance between the points is 30-50 cm.
• As you probably understood, the points on the horizontal line are the places where the guide profiles will go, which means they should also be even. Therefore, we again take the level in our hands and draw vertical lines from each point, which we will be guided by later.
• Now, it remains to divide each line into segments of 30-50 cm. And at these points, using a puncher and dowels, fix the metal braces.
• And again we take the level in our hands and focusing on its readings, we fix the profiles to the braces using self-tapping screws with pressure caps. In the same way, we frame all windows and doors on the facade, and in addition, we install an additional segment at the place where the H-profile will pass in the future.

Heaters

It is no secret that before sheathing a house with siding with your own hands, it must be insulated (see), and for this there are a number of materials, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The choice is yours, and we will try to briefly talk about the most popular types of insulation today:

• Mineral wool. A convenient and inexpensive material with high thermal insulation and vapor permeability, so that condensation does not accumulate under it, and the facade receives additional breathability.
• Basalt wool. The material is not much different from the mineral counterpart. The main advantage of basalt is its resistance to very high temperatures, so this cotton wool is most often used to insulate baths or stoves.
• Expanded polystyrene, popularly known as polystyrene foam... A material that has more disadvantages than advantages, the most significant of which can be considered complete vapor barrier and high flammability. On the other hand, it has a very attractive price, so if all safety standards are observed, it is quite possible to save a little.
• Penoplex... A new word in the production of styrene insulation. It does not burn and is highly durable. Penoplex is an expensive material, and has a very high degree of thermal insulation, which is identical to a wall two bricks thick.
• Polyurethane foam, or just polyurethane foam... Today, there are technologies for insulating entire houses with it. Of course, you won't be able to do it yourself without special equipment, but if there is no strict financial framework, then you can contact the appropriate company, which will do everything in a short time.

It is very simple to attach any insulation to the wall, just apply glue and attach a segment. You can also use special plastic parachutes with wide caps, which tightly press the seal against the wall. So, all the preparatory stages are left behind and you can proceed to the direct installation of the siding panels.

Siding installation

If you have never encountered such work before, then in order to sheathe the house with siding with your own hands, we strongly recommend that you watch the video in this article and only after that continue reading.

In fact, all the worst and most difficult is over, and the installation of the siding will take place very quickly. Conventionally, the whole process can be divided into three stages, each of which must be performed strictly in turn.

• Fastening the starter bar. The stage is not difficult, but very responsible, since the evenness of the entire finish will depend on it. For convenience, especially when it is necessary to cover large areas with siding, you can nail a temporary wooden block right along the horizontal line drawn by us, which will serve as a support and hold the required level of the panel.
• You can do without it, but then you have to check the level readings when tightening each self-tapping screw. The starting bar is attached along the entire perimeter of the house, while between each segment it is necessary to leave space for the installation of the H-profile, that is, the starting panel must completely coincide in location with the rest of the finishing segments.

Attention: If you nevertheless installed the guide bar, now it can be removed, we will no longer need it, so we proceed to the next step.

• Fastening decorative elements. And this process begins from the corners of the house, that is, we mount all the corner elements, both internal and external. The height of one segment may not be enough, so you have to make a small overlap, and the upper segment should overlap the lower one. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the finish.
• Now, we put H-profiles wherever needed. The H-profile is used to connect two panels to each other along the length. Some masters do without this element, just making small overlaps, but it looks less attractive, so the decision to use the H-profile or not is yours.
• Further, we frame windows and doors, here you can use a Zh-profile or a special platband. There is no fundamental difference here, neither in terms of quality, nor in terms of ease of attachment, the main thing is that you personally like it.

We fix the siding

All decorative elements are installed, and it remains only to dial the panels. The whole process resembles the assembly of a children's designer, only the parts are larger.

So, we just take the panel, put it in the extreme decorative elements, hook it with a groove on the starting panel and fasten it with a self-tapping screw. At first glance, nothing complicated, but there are several secrets:

So:

• The self-tapping screw should not press the panel tightly, this is necessary for thermal expansion of the plastic in hot weather.
• The self-tapping screw must in no case be screwed through the body of the panel, since the plastic can simply burst. There are special holes for fastening, which must be used.
• Cut the panels about one centimeter smaller than the required size. This will leave small gaps for the siding to expand.
• Before starting work, let the siding rest for a couple of hours. During this time, it will take its shape depending on the ambient temperature.
• We make the connection exactly in the intended holes. Extra holes never need to be drilled.
• When installing the panels, we use a level, and on each panel. An offset of one cm will give an error of five cm at a height of one meter.

Now that the panels are assembled, all that remains is to install the finish bar and the finish is ready. You now know how to properly sheathe a house with siding and can do everything without problems. Home siding instructions will help you avoid mistakes during installation.