I am engaged in quadcopters as a hobby for almost six months. I joined the camera (Gopro HD Hero 2) and the video speaker, and flew on it through the video photos - the coolest feeling, I want to say you. No technique was NE perfect. Old Rama X525 with aluminum beams was not sufficiently stable for weight in 1.8kg, the copter in the air shook out, and it looked like all enough collective farm. Therefore, it was decided to build a new quad, on the personally developed frame, taking into account all the needs. And the needs were as follows:

• Place under all equipment. On the new frame should be enough space for the camera (without propellers in the picture), transmitters, OSD, a large battery, plus control electronics (Flight Controller and GPS).
• Stability. The frame should be as tough as possible, but at the same time provide vibration insulation of the chamber from the motor.
• Appearance. I wanted to make a copter so that it was nice to look at him, and not typical of novice lumps of wires and screeds on a standard crosshead.
• (Secondary) Weight. Copter on the base X525 Weight 1.8kg with a camera and a battery, I wanted to slightly reduce this figure, at the same time and lift the flight time on one battery.

Having embarked on the brains and making a decision, as all it will look, I installed librecad and started working.

Development

Inspiration for the general form of the copter served as a frame SPIDEX V2. I liked the location of the components in the same level - the camera in front, then the center is displaced forward, and the battery suspended behind. Such a scheme allows you to arrange the camera so that the propellers do not fall into its field of view. Also they came up good way Vibration isolation - the camera and the battery are suspended to two horizontal pipes, which in turn are mounted on the center using rubber insulators. The battery mass helps reduce vibrations transmitted by the NA camera. Well, such a copter looks, in my opinion, it is very decent.

However, completely under my needs SPIDEX did not fit. First, it uses aluminum tubes, from which I have already suffered - they are bent, and even without accidents, simply from constant load. Secondly, I use the Gopro Hero HD2 camera, borrowed indefinitely from the cohabitant - I am ready to mount it on a copter without a protective body, and SPIDEX does not provide it.

In short, I decided to use only the overall layout from Spidex. I decided to collect myself, using fiberglass plates and carbon tubes with clips. A familiar house has a milling machine on which you can cut the plates of the necessary form. To create this very form, I sat down for Librecad, and that's what I got:

General view of a copter from above

Central plates and chamber holders and batteries

Satisfied with this result, I handed the drawings to a friend, and ordered all the necessary details in local (German) online stores. In particular, carbonized tubes (16x14mm, a meter length, three pieces - for the frame will be needed two, well, about the reserve), clips for them together with suitable screws / nuts (from the FLYDUINO FCP HL set), wires for laying through Tubes for motors, vibration insulators (silent blocks under m3), and a bunch of all small things.

I decided to use all the electronics from the previous copter. Two quad people to nothing, everything works fine - why buy new details? The list of the same electronics and other parts swinging from the previous model:

• Motors: 4x NTM 28-30 750KV
• Motor Controllers: 4x Hobbyking Blue Series 30A, With Simonk Firmware
• Propellers: 4x graupner E-PROP 11x5
• Control Panel: CRIUS MULTIWII SE V0.1, with MultiWii 2.2
• Batteries: Turnigy Nanotech 4S 4500mAh 25-35C
• Camera: GoPro HD HERO2
• Video transmitter: ImmersionRC 5.8G 25mW
• Antenna: CLOWERLEAF 5.8G, DIY from Cleretz at the local forum
• OSD: Minimosd with KV Team OSD Firmware for Multiwii 2.2
• GPS: DROTEK I2C GPS
• Radio: Graupner Hott GR-16, under my transmitter (MX-16)

Assembly

A few days later all the details were in place, and it was possible to start assembling.

Copter assembly in 23 pictures

Details are decomposed on the table, the assembly begins. The order did not last for a long time ...

To start sawing the tube under the desired length - 22cm and 28cm, all four are dug from one meter tube. Filing for metal with small teeth is very good.

We try climbs to the lower center.

The center is assembled for verification, whether everything is joined as it should. It seems yes.

Screw all other parts of the frame. Looks like almost ready? No matter how.

Motor axes need to trim - they protrude on the back side, and interfere with the installation of tubes from above. Purchase the motor adhesive ribbon, in order to prevent metal sawdust ingestion.

... and the dremel of him, the dremel. Dremel cuts a 3-millimeter axis like a knife oil. The main protective goggles of NE forget.

We remove the heat shrink from the motor controllers to solder new wires.

Wires are cut under the desired length. We solder the connecting to the motor. For three phases on the engine, you need to solder dofiga - and it is all the quad.

We place controllers at the bottom half.

We screw the motor and carry out the cable through the tube. All is going to be scheduled!

Insulating the controllers with a new heat shrinkage when all cables are in place.

Installing motor controllers on their final position. Wires are a bit, but quite clean.

Wiring of wires from the battery, using the RCExplorer method. First we collect wires from controllers with a beam ...

... tighten the fine copper wire ...

... solder, and insulating the heat shrink. The connection is mechanically strong, and well conductive.

We try out the final assembly: everything coincides! The upper half-frame is not yet screwed, simply lies from above.

Upper semiraration with control electronics in the center (controller and GPS) and vibration insulated tubes with a camera and battery.

Video equipment on the bottom side of the upper center: the video cable from the camera goes to Minimosed, there is information from the flight controller, and further into the video transmitter.

The lower semiramp is ready to install the top. Motors are raised so that the clamps in the center do not break down when temporary nuts are unscrew.

Install and screw the upper semiramp. Tighten the nuts, connect all the wires ...

... Ready!

Assembly result:

Here is such a copter. The only thing I am unhappy is the weight. It was not possible to facilitate the design, due to the clamps for the tubes and a huge number of screws with nuts, the total weight rose to 1950 grams. However, this is still quite within the capacity of the drive - my doubts were completely dispelled during the first flight.

The first flight

Feelings from the first flight: fantasy! The copter stands in the air as the inspected, is perfectly controlled both visually and via FPV. The flight time on one charge is 14 minutes, and the power reserve is enough with interest to be added comfortable flight and maneuvering. With the controller settings, I'm still slowing down - the GPS works badly (the position is practically not held, Return-to-home does not work), and the PID parameters need to be adjusted (to reduce P on the roll axis to get rid of light transverse vibrations visible in video .

In general, the project was a success. Capter I will actively use for flights and filming in the coming weeks.

Any questions, comments, etc. Welcome.

Quadric can hang in one place and keep a photo and video shooting, it is because of this, many photographers keep up with progress and buy quadcopters for video shooting.

Quadcopters broke into our lives together with technical progress. Today, order electronics for quadcopter from China is very cheap. Collect the Rama of the Quadrocopter with their own hands from the girlfriend and is not difficult at all. You can learn how to control with air simulators. So the main thing is the presence of a desire to make a quadrocopter with your own hands.

Electronics for quadcopter is best to buy ready.

Details of homemade quadrocopter

Engines for quadcopter, 4 pcs - D2822 / 14 1450KV

Of course, an additional purchase of a small quadrocopter is a bit overly, but, flying on this you learn how to manage and fly on a large quadcopter with a camera without falls! And the small toy can always be given to the child.

Well, on the last, a small flight of the flight on the quadcopter, the recording from the camera.

In this article we satisfied the main programming of homemade quadcopters. If you want to learn more - see section

iskra comments:

how to make a quadracopter so that it flew within 500 meters with a real-time camera that displays the image on the screen

chelovek comments:

Guys help!
I want to collect the Quarterrick on the Arduino Mega platform using this component items:

• Tutorial

I described the entire process of assembly and settings and, and below will be a slightly modified version containing more information from my previous articles.

I will leave behind the brackets the question of entering this hobby and proceed directly to the quadcopter.

Choosing quadrocopter size

A year ago, the quadrocopters of the 250 sizes were most popular. But now the pilots prefer to collect smaller devices, which is very reasonable: weight less, and the power is the same. I chose the 180th size not from some practical reasons, but as a certain challenge on the assembly.

In fact, this approach to the selection is not entirely correct. It is much wiser to choose the size of the propellers at first, and already under them - the smallest frame where the selected propellers fit. And with this approach, the 180th format is generally rejected. Judge for yourself: the 210th format allows you to put the same 5-inch propellers that the 250th, while the quadric itself is obtained easier, and the 4-inch propellers are closer in the 160th frames. It turns out that the 180th size is such an intermediate format that "none, nor yours." It can also be considered wasteful 160th. But, nevertheless I chose it. Perhaps because it is a minimum size capable of a more or less comfortable gopro or runcam chamber.

Accessories

Let's start with the motors. The "intermediate" of the 180th size, as well as the wealth of their range, complicate the choice. On the one hand, you can take what goes on the 160th, on the other, what is installed on the 210th or even 250th. It is necessary to proceed from the propellers and batteries (the number of cans). I do not see the point of using the battery 3s, and on propellers general rules Such:

• need a maximum static thrust - increase the diameter of the propeller and reduce the step (within reasonable limits)
• need high speed - reduce diameter and increase the step (within reasonable limits)
• need high thrust with a small diameter - add the number of blades (again in reasonable limits, since if the difference between two- and three-sand propellers is tangible, then between three- and four-stamped - not so big)

In my case, I have a limitation of the size of the propellers of 4 inches, but I do not have restrictions on motors. It means that it will be the most reasonable to use three-blade 4045 bullnose propellers. They are difficult to balance, but with them the management of review and predictable, and the sound is quieter. On the other hand, with double-bladed propellers, the speed of the quadrocopter is higher, but this is not exactly necessary for me. "The people" in the 180s are dominated by the following setups:

• motor with motors 1306-3100KV, conventional 4045 propellers and 850mAh batteries
• silent and powerful under three-sand bullnose Propellers and an action chamber with motors 2205-2600kV and 1300mAh battery

In fact, the frame allows you to put the motors from 1306-4000KV to 22xx-2700kv. By the way, I do not know why, but the motors 1806-2300kv are now in the opal and are used little.

For your quadric motors I took - RCX H2205 2633KV. First, I wanted to have a reserve for power (although with my modest piloting skills, it is not clear why). Secondly, my setups have never been superlighted, in addition I also plan to carry the action chamber. Specifically, RCX motors are a compromise option. They are cheap, but also a lot of complaints. At the time of purchase of components, it was one of the few motors of 2205-2600kv on the market. Now (at the time of writing the article) the range is much more and better to choose something else.
With the rest of the components operated on the principle of "more Chellands":

Choosing a flight controller

You probably noticed that there is no flight controller in the list. I want to describe his choice. In low-cost sets for assembly, the CC3D controller often includes, so now it is perhaps the cheapest PC. Today there is absolutely no sense to buy CC3D. He is outdated and does not have such necessary things as the control of the charge of the battery and the "cigarette". His successor CC3D Revolution is a completely different product with rich opportunities, but also at the price of over 40 €.
Modern flight controllers have already switched from the F1 processors on F3, which made Naze32 PC last generation and significantly reduced its price. Now it is a truly popular controller, which has almost everything that the soul wants at 12 €.
From the PC of the new generation, the mainly popular Serious Pro Racing F3 is most popular, and first of all, due to the presence of inexpensive clones. The controller itself is not inferior to Naze32, in addition it has a quick F3 processor, a large number of Memory, three UART ports, built-in inverter for S.Bus. It was SpracingF3 Acro that I chose. The rest of the modern PCs were not considered because of the price, or some specific features (closed firmware, layout, etc.)
Separately, I note the trendy current tendency to combine several boards into one. Most often PC and OSD or PC and PDB I do not support this idea for a pair of exceptions. I do not want to change the entire flight controller because of the burnt OSD. In addition, as practice shows, sometimes such union brings problems.

Wiring scheme

It is clear that all the components that need to be powered by 5V or 12V will receive it from Bec`s power distribution cards. The chamber theoretically could be powered directly from the 4S-battery, the benefit of the input voltage allows, but in no case should it be done. First, all the chambers are very susceptible to noise in the chain from the regulators, which will express in the interference in the picture. Secondly, regulators with active braking (such as my Littlebee), when activating this braking, is given a very serious impulse into the on-board network, which can burn the camera. Moreover, the presence of a pulse directly depends on the wear of the battery. There is no new ones, and old - there is. Here is informative video On the topic of interference from the regulators and how to filter them. So the camera is best to feed either from Bec`a or from the video player.
Also, for the sake of improving the quality of the picture, it is recommended to start with the camera on OSD not only the signal wire, but also "the Earth". If you twist these wires in the "pigtail", then the "Earth" acts as the screen for the signal wire. True in this case, I did not do this.
If he was talking about "Earth", then they often argue about whether it is necessary to connect the "land" from regulators to a PC or enough of one signal wire. On the usual racing quadcopter uniquely need to connect. Its absence can lead to synchronization breakdowns ( the confirmation).
The final wiring scheme turned out simple and laconic, but with a pair of nuances:

• power supply of the flight controller (5V) from PDB through outputs for regulators
• radio reception (5V) from PC through the OI_1 connector
• power supply (12V) from PDB
• camera power (5V) from the video player
• OSD connected to uart2. Many are used for this UART1, but as well as on Naze32, here this connector is flying with USB.
• VBAT is connected to a PC, and not to OSD. In the theory of VBAT Ltd. readings (VBAT), you can read both OSD and PC, connecting the battery or to one or another. What is the difference? In the first case, the testimony will be present only on the screen of the monitor or points and the PC will not know anything about them. In the second case, the PC can monitor the battery voltage, inform the pilot about it (for example, a "diet"), as well as transfer this data to the OSD, to the "black box" and telemetry to the remote control. Customize the accuracy of the testimony is also simpler through the PC. That is, the connection of VBAT to the flight controller is much more preferable.

Assembly

To start a few general Soviets Assembly:

• Carbon spends current. So everything needs to be well to isolate so that nowhere has not closed anything on the frame.
• Everything that protrudes beyond the limits of the frame is most likely, it will be broken or torn off. In this case, we are talking, first of all, about connectors. Wires can also be condensed with a screw, so that they need to be hide.
• It is extremely preferably after soldering to cover all the plastik 71 insulating lacquer fees, and in several layers. According to his own experience, I will say that the liquid varnish of the tassel is much more convenient than to cover.
• It will not be superfluous to drop a bit of thermoclause to the place of the soldering of the wires to the fees. It will protect the soldering from vibrations.
• For all threaded connections, it is advisable to use the "Lokatet" medium fixation (blue).

Assembly I prefer to start with motors and regulators. A good video for the assembly of a small quadrocopter, from which I adopted the idea of \u200b\u200bthe location of the motors.

Separately, I want to say about the fastening of regulators: where and what? They can be fixed on the beam and under it. I chose the first option, as it seems to me that in this position the regulator is more protected (these are my speculations that are not confirmed by practice). In addition, when mounting on the beam, the regulator is perfectly cooled by air from the propeller. Now about how to fix the regulator. There are many ways, the most popular - double-sided scotch + one or two ties. "Cheap and angry", besides, dismantling difficulties will not deliver. Worse, with such a mount, you can damage the regulator board (if you put the screed on it) or the wires (if fixed on them). So I decided to fix the regulators of a shrink tube (25mm) and sealed them together with the rays. There is one nuance: the regulator itself should also be in the heat shrink (mine in it and sold) so as not to contact with contacts with carbon beam, otherwise - KZ.

It also makes sense to glue on a piece of bilateral tape from the bottom to each beam at the motor mounting place. First, it will protect the bearing of the motor from dust. Secondly, if for some reason one of the bolts unscrew, it will not fall when flying and not lost.
When assembling the frame did not use a single bolt from the kit, since all of them are indecent short. Instead, I purchased a little longer and with a head under the crusader (there is such a personal preference).

The camera did not fit the width between the side plates of the frame. A little processed the edge of her feet with a supfil (rather did the roughness) and she got up without any problems. But difficulties did not end. I really liked the quality of the holder for the camera from Diatone, but the camera did not fit into the frame in height (about 8-10mm). At first I jerked the holder on the outer (top) side of the plate through the neoprene damper, but the design turned out to be unreliable. Later, the idea of \u200b\u200bthe most simple and reliable fastening came. I only took the clamp from the Diatone'Oskoy fastening and dressed him on the segment of the rod with a thread M3. So that the camera does not shift the sideline, I fixed the clamp with nylon clutches.

I really liked that only connectors for regulators had to solder from connections on the PC. Full three-contact connectors did not fit on top of the height, I had to go to the cunning and use bicpin. For the first five channels (4 for regulators + 1 "for every fireman"), I soldered the connectors to the signaling site and the "land" for the other three to the "plus" and "land" so that the PC itself could be supplied and - backlight. Considering that Chinese clones of flight controllers sin with the unfortunate fixation of the USB connector, I was released too. Another point characteristic of the SpracingF3 clone is the "Food" connector. As in the case of VBAT, on the upper side of the board there is a two-contact JST-XH connector, and on the bottom - it is duplicated by contact pads. The quarrel is that the clone "Earth" on the connector is constant and when it uses "Cook" will always be activated. The normal working for the "sakery" "Earth" is removed only on the contact pad. It is easily checked by a tester: "plus" the connector is nicknamed with a "plus" on the contact site, and "minus" is not nicknamed. Consequently, it is necessary to solder wires for "sakes" to the bottom of the PC.

Three-contact connections of regulators also had to replace. You could use four two-contact plug, but instead, I took two four-pin plug and inserted all the regulators in one "land", in the second (by following the order of connection of motors) - signal wire.

The plate with backlight is larger than the frame and protrudes on the sides. The only place where the propellers do not make it - under the frame. I had to collective me: I took long bolts, put on them nylon clutches with previously done slots (so that the ties that fastening the backlight could be fixed) and screwed through the lower plate in the frame rack. To the resulting legs, the ties pulled the plate with LEDs (the holes in the plate fit perfectly) and poured the screeds with a thermoclayer. Connectors soldered on the backside of the plate.
Already after the assembly, it turned out at the setup stage that something is wrong with the sulp. Immediately after connecting the battery, it began to monotonically squeezed, and if you activate it from the remote, then the rhythmic peak was superimposed on this monotonic peak. I first sinned on a PC, but after measuring the voltage by a multimeter, it became clear where exactly the problem. In fact, it was possible from the very beginning to connect a conventional LED to the vessels. As a result, I ordered a few sakers at once, listened to them and installed the most loud.

Often the PDB and the controller are fixed to the frame with nylon bolts, but I do not trust their strength. Therefore, I used 20mm metal bolts and nylon clutches. After installing the PDB, I soldered the nutrition of the regulators (the remaining wires were soldered in advance) and flooded the site of the soldering of the thermoclaim. The main power wire going to the battery, I tied up to the frame so that it did not break out in the event of an accident.

From the receiver, I removed all connectors from the reception, except for the necessary three, and the jumper between the third and fourth channels was released directly on the board. As I already wrote above, it would be wiser to take a receiver without connectors. Also, I turned the antenna from him and he wrote into the heat shrink. On the frame, the receiver fit well between PBD and the rear counter. With this location, its indicators are clearly visible and there is access to the Binda button.

I fired with screed and thermoclaim to the upper plate of the frame so that through the slot to access the channel switching button and LED indicators.

For attaching an antenna of a video student in the frame there is a special hole. But it is not necessary to connect it with a transmitter directly. It turns out a kind of lever, where the antenna is served by one shoulder, another transmitter itself with all the wires, and the location of the connectors will be a point of support, which will have a maximum load. Thus, in the event of an accident, almost with a 100% probability of the connector on the transmitter board broke. Therefore, it is necessary to mount the antenna through some kind of adapter or extension.

To minimosd, I decided to solder connectors, and not the wires directly. It is written on the forums that this fee is often burning, therefore reasonably immediately prepare for a possible replacement. I took a bar with connectors in two rows, the bottom soldered to the contact venues with the holes, and turned to the top VIN and VOUT. After that, he flooded the place of soldering with a thermoclaim and packed the whole board in the shoe shrink.

The last stroke is a sticker with a phone number. It will give at least a little hope in the case of the loss of the quadrocopter.

The assembly on it came to an end. It turned out compactly and with access to all necessary controls. More photos can be viewed

The desire to have its own quadrocopter is quite understandable, because today is the time when the world is experiencing a real boom. The cost of a "good" drone equipped with a large-resolution camera for playing video filming, "Pocket" not everyone.

ARTICLETOC: Enabled \u003d YES)

But, the exit is a quadrocopter with your own hands. Step-by-step assembly It seems difficult only at first glance.

The entire stage of manufacture with your own hands consists of:

• build frame;
• purchases of the necessary spare parts;
• assembly;
• wiring.
• Making frame

It can be made with his own hands from plywood with a size of 150x150 mm or an aluminum profile of 14x14 mm. Screws are screwed down diagonally rays, the length of which is 300 mm. Holes for motors can be drilled after the quadcopter will be assembled.

For landing "skis" is suitable for a thin ribbon of aluminum. It can be selected for the manufacture of the battery holder.

Required spare parts

• battery for drone - 8 pcs.;
• battery for equipment;
• charging - 1;
• 10 inches propellers;
• control board (HK Multi-Rotor Control Board 2.1);
• turnigy 9x equipment.

All together will go about 120 dollars. But, waiting for the parcel from Hong Kong will have about 20 days. Plus it is 5 days for this while you can get imports. To the specified amount add 3-15 bucks for delivery.

It is necessary to place the controls in the center of the platform as precisely as possible. Holes for it are drilled through the rays and Phaneur. The rays fee is attached with the help of metal screws.

With a board next to the receiver, applying Sumermegacles. It can also be glued to the rays antenna. If the purpose of the channels and the boards coincide, they are allowed by three-core loops.

The next step of assembling the quadrocopter do it yourself - drilling holes for the motor. On the rays you need at the same distance taken to "on the eye", apply a mark. The engine is suitable with the distance between the centers of the holes equal to 19 mm and the inner conventional thread M3.

For the shaft of the motor, you need to drill the hole. It is recommended to do it through and on the entire width of the square, so that the support is not cling to the edges:

We screw the outputs of the motors to the platform using the screws M3 not more than 4 mm long, since this size has a profile. Do it so as not to spoil the winding, do not contribute to the interstitious closure in case of damage to the varnish on the wire.

Wiring

Now it's time to move to the wiring. Of the four speed regulators, you need to solder "spider", soldering the wires directly to adapter nests.

The detachable connections are used in a single location - when connected "Spider" with a battery. All other connections soldered and tighten the shrink cord so that the wires do not fall out during vibration.

According to the Motor numbers on the board, connect the drivers signal wires. If a "plus" flight scheme is used, you need to connect them to M1-M4 pins (when you learn how to control, the firmware can be changed).

Connection diagram is provided below:

As a result, it will turn out such a quadrocopter made by hand, weighing one kilogram. You can conduct a test flight.

But, before, you need to charge the battery, connect it and the transmitter. Now take the right and down the gas handle. The board should light up with red LED. The next moment - the gas handle is moved forward. Engines must earn, and quadrocoprete "go" in flight.

It was a simple quadrocopter with his own hands. If you need a quadrocopter to collect yourself, and even with the camera, it would be different that there is a good productivity and good flight qualities, there is another option. The assembly depends on the specific model, features of electronics and the number of structural elements.

Details for drone with their own cameras

These include:

• engine D2822 / 14 - 4 pcs.;
• the turnover regulator is as much;
• rotary rotors - left and right;
• power splitter, or 3.5 mm connector for connecting revolutions.

Do not do without boosts to adjust the quadrocopter with your own hands connected to the computer via USB - Multiwii ATMEGA32U4. To launch, Nano Tech 2200 30c batteries are needed - 4 pieces, because when using one drive, the flight time will be small.

To restore energy in them you need charging. You will also need to build with your own hands the controller with which the flight is adjusted. For the remote, the Turnigy 9X device is suitable. You can catch the signals with it at a distance of 800-900 meters. The signal transmitter comes with a remote control.

Assembly

As in the first case, it begins with the manufacture of a frame for which you can take plastic pipes. Since their weight is small, the quadcopter will be mobile, and the speed-developing speed is high. In addition, such a frame is easy to fix in the case of a "accident".

Rotors are attached to the corners of the rectangular frame. The design must be equipped with "legs", to which to attach the camera.

Silicone wires will help connect the engines to each propeller. The battery with electronics is not bad to fix on the platform installed in the center of the frame. Before starting the installation of electronic fillings, the connection scheme should be downloaded, finding something simple on the forums. If necessary, do you can reflash taking into account recent updates. In the same place, on the forums, they tell how to reflash the remote.

Collect the quadrocopter with your own hands bye not everyone, because it requires engineering skills. But, if there is an instruction and scheme, the process for creating flying is simplified.

Step-by-step assembly

People who want to collect themselves a quadrocopter seek to save that it is quite understandable. But this reason is not the only one: many questions are interested because their hobbies on drone control grew into the desire to participate in races and, if possible, to become the winner in them. And for this you need to refine the design.

Assembly from the kit

Enhancing the appropriate set, you can significantly simplify the assembly process with your own las.

It is cheaper than a ready-made quadrocopter at times, because the user will be engaged in the assembly, firmware, calibration and accurate setting. The main advantage of the sets is the absence of the need to select chips, engine power, body weight.

About balanced, affecting the behavior of the quadrocopter in flight, is also not worried about - all the necessary parameters, including the planned speed and time of staying in flight it will have.

Kits allow collecting collapsible and monolithic drones with their own hands. Here to solve the pilot, which he wants to have a design. The collapsible are interested in those who prefer models overall, but at the same time easily portable.

But, for notes: Such models do not differ in attractive design, since the outer body performing the decorative and protective function is not included in the kit.

How to assemble a similar design with your own hands, described in detail in the attached instruction.

As a rule, everything begins with installation on a plastic, carbon or metal motor exoskeleton. Then placed PIN cables controlling the power of motors. Later fasten on the case receiver signal and control module - a brain center.

The final stage establishes LEDs, clamps, batteries.

The assembly on this ends, but the most interesting thing begins - the firmware, the device calibration and fine tuning, occupying from 30 minutes to 3 hours (depending on the manufacturer of the components included). By this moment the battery must be fully charged.

Build a quadrocopter from undergraduate materials

Although it is popular among lovers to "fly" on the drone, it is worth a confession that it does not allow a full-fledged copter. Buy details will have to definitely, just take not the whole set, and the most necessary: \u200b\u200bscrews, engines, battery, control board and receiver, control equipment, without which it is impossible to control the device.

So that the components in the air are not collapsed, they must be fixed on a lightweight, but durable frame. For the manufacture of such a suitable can be suitable: sticks from ice cream, plastic bottles and covers.

Creating a housing, you can not forget about the stability of the structure collected by your own hands, equilibrium, flight qualities, ease.

If knowledge allows, you can come up with your scheme if not - to find on the Internet.

The first assembly, as a rule, is only the beginning. In the future, it will be repeatedly finalized.

There is one trick that helps to avoid complex balances on balancing - you need to choose a specific model, and the components can already be ordered from the basic list.

The main thing is to specify correct details. For example, it must be in the list of two left and right rotation engines and the corresponding screws. Otherwise, the device will not function.

If there is an opportunity, it is worth ordering more details - in case of replacing the defective (it happens). Unlike the sold sets, their own hands will not be able to collect a quadrocopter.

Read:

• glue pistol;
• screwdriver;
• soldering iron;
• double-sided tape;
• insulating tape.

When the working model is ready, the time of modernization will come, as a result of which the Quadcopter may appear LEDs, antenna, diet (bippers), etc., increasing functionality.

Video: Quadrocopter do it yourself

Interested quadrocopters. I decided to make an order, the choice fell on Habsan X4 with a 03MR camera.
I waited, I received. Dulcitate a lot of departure on it (there were crash, long expectations of spare parts and repairs). My brain visited the idea to collect a large quadrocopter, plunged into this topic, reread a lot of articles. If possible, answered questions to people in the RC model professionals: Regarding the choice of parts, the assembly of the quadrocopter. From all this, an idea arose to write this article.
Principle of flight


So, if you decide to collect your quadrocopter, then you need to decide on the budget. From the amount you are willing to spend a miracle depends on the size. The most frequent dimensions (in mm) is 250,330,450,550 and more.
* 250 Size: Small, light, more often all use only FPV flights.
* 330 and 450 Golden middle for budget quadrocopter. Acceptable mass and assembly price.
*550 And more can be attributed to professional copter or multi-designers. Such machines will turn out heavy and expensive. For LA data there will be powerful engines and they can carry a decent weight, up to kilogram sir.
I will continue my story based on the scale 450 copter.
A special place in this category is occupied by the frames DJI 330 and 450, TBS Discovery.


The price of their corresponding ... High.
There are many clones, I chose it.

It's time to find out what is Quadcopter and what it consists of.
1. Rama
2. Receiver / Transmitter
3. Flight controller:
a) Aiop.
b) Naza.
c) Muliwii.
d) hkpilot.
e) amp
f) and others

4. Power installation
a) Motor.
b) speed controller
c) Propellers
5. Battery
6. Extras Equipment:
a) FPV system (first-person view in real time)
Course camera
Transmitter
OSD.
b) Suspension for onboard chamber
c) Illuminated

Now you can consider everything in detail.
1) with frame Already decided. 450 Scale, TBS clone.


2) Receiver / Transmitter. Its selection is very important. You need to understand for yourself: how far do you want to fly.
Most popular options:
 1.5-2km will provide 2,4GHz
 433 MHz will provide about 5-10km (it all depends on the power, you can fly at 20km)
For myself chose 2,4GHz Flysky Th9x 9Kanalov



Not expensive and easy to set up the equipment.
For quadcopter, it is necessary from 5 channels.
The choice of this equipment is due to its popularity, as a reference to the market. There are many clones. There are many disputes on what company was the first, this is the same Turnagig 9, Avionix and others ... There are many settings on the Internet.
3) flight controller
At the moment there are a lot of flight controllers for quadcopters. I did my choice. it Naza Lite C GPS

Not very expensive and angry. Naz requires minimal setting and make it very simple.
With AIOP, Crius and Multiwii controllers will be more difficult many times and especially newbies.
Why did I take the controller with GPS?
This feature is necessary for hanging at the point and return home.
I see it a very convenient functionality.
4) power plant
Causes many questions from the uninitiated.
BC Motors are used. They are three phase (3 wires), their efficiency is about 90%.
To control the speed of rotation, this motor uses the revolutions controller (regular), which receives commands from the flight controller.

Consider the frames of 330,450mm. Depending on your needs, you must estimate the weight of the quadcopter. On average, it turns out from 1k to 1.5 kg. It is desirable that the motors can be 2-2.5 times more than a common mass. This suggests that the thrust should be 2-3 kg. We divide it on 4 and get a traction of one motor: approximately 500-750 gr.
The question arises: what engine to choose? We look at the characteristics of the frame: we are interested in which engines can be delivered to it. Must be interested in the first 2 digits: 22 or 28 in most cases.
We start the selection of the engine. At the engine name you will see a certain amount, for example: 1100kV. This value indicates the number of turns per 1 volt. Motors with high KV values \u200b\u200bhave less turns of the stator winding, which is less involued. The difference is subject to this that the maximum current will be higher in engines with less kv, which have a greater force of torque and it allows you to use large propellers.
You can compare with a car gearbox. 380KV and 1400KV is like the first and third transmission from the car.
380KV for measured slow and long flight lading
1400KV for fast and maneuverable stroke.
In the Internet or in the description of this engine you can see it specifications and test results. You need to learn the maximum strength of the current (a) that the engine will be able to pull and proceed from these data to select the revolver regulator (ESC). Suppose max and for engine 20a. Then, ESC take 20-25% more powerful, 25-30a.
Now we look at the test results.
for example We see: 11x4.7 -3S-12A - 830g
It means
11x4.7 - Propeller characteristics (11-inch, 4.7 step)
3S - Number of Lipo Battery Can
12a - Current power in the chain at a given load
830gr - engine thrust under donation conditions
Thus, the maximum thrust is 830x4 \u003d 3300 gr., Max Current power in the chain 12x4 \u003d 48a
The maximum current is needed to select the battery and wiring.

First, do not take carbon ribs. Overpayment. Learn to fly on cheap.
The propeller fastening depends on the engine itself. Most propellers have an adapter under the axis of the engine. Perhaps fastening on the coluges or thread. There are excellent options for self-pulling and attachments from DJI, with this option your propeller will never be unscrewed during the flight.
For simpler options, I advise you to additionally secure the thread sealant.

Paying attention : Compare Motors with different kv can be possible under the conditions of one size. For example, Emax Xa 2212 exist in different configurations:
820
980
1400
They can be compared.
The efficiency of the motor with 1400KV will be maximum when using Propeller 8040,
A motor with 820kv - with a 1147 propeller.
Maximum torque will be at the motor with 820kV, so it is advisable to use large propellers. And the motor with 1400kV will love high speed at a lower load.
The difference between the represented engines in the winding.
It is reasonable to use them like this:
1400kV on frame 330 and 8040 propellers
980KV on frame 450 and 1045 propellers
820kV on frame 500-550 and 1147 propellers
I chose
And propellers
Wonderful set.
Connection scheme
For simplicity: signal-black, power (+ \\ -) \u200b\u200b- red


5) Battery
Choosing the battery you need to pick up Cokotdach. This is the number C. (25c, 35c)
Do not forget that, according to our data, the system eats 48a.
Suppose that there is a battery 3300mAh 3S 35C Lipo Pack
3300 Mah - Battery Capacity
3S - number of cans (one bank 3.7V)
35C - Tokotdach. Those. Battery capacity 3.3Ah (3300 Mah) x 35c \u003d 115a
That enough covers our power consumption. Even too. The more with, the harder and more expensive than the battery.
Let us see if the battery can be the same capacity, but with currently 25c, it will cope with our tasks or not: 3.3Ah (3300 mAh) x 25c \u003d 82a
Answer: yes.
Such a battery will be easier and cheaper.
To control the status of the battery you can buy such a thing.

To charge the battery, IMAX B6 is very popular, be careful, a lot of fakes.

And do not forget to contact Lipo very carefully.
My advice: take no less pair of battery.
6) add. Equipment.
When you have determined the range of flight and chose the control system, you can start the selection of the FPV system:
FPV-literal: first-person view in real time.
 2.4GHz compatible with 5,8GHC
 433 MHz compatible with 1.2 GHz
Otherwise, joint interference will be created.
For your 2.4 GHz, I picked up 5,8GHTS 200mW

The FPV system displays from:
1) coursework chamber
2) transmitters on the quadric
3) reception station on Earth.
To increase the range of communication, you can replace the standard antenna to "" clovers ""

Most of the transmitters are powered within 9-12V, a small 3s battery will be able to power the transmitter and the chamber that is selected for this voltage.
What does 200mW mean?
This is the power of the transmitter. It directly affects the range of communication. In an open area with abnormal antenna, the signal can be obtained at a distance of 1 km.
Taking into account the fact that my control system for a distance is more than 1.5-2km is not capable, it is perfect
Option for my needs.
With the choice of a receiver and transmitter now everything is clear, and how to choose a camera, their huge number?
The camera selection originally rests on the cash.
There are cameras that have a function of streaming data and simultaneous recording. The cost of such chambers is significantly higher. Very popular is the Mobius chamber.

It appeared its competitor, which also having AV output

You can use the course chamber from the cheapest, without housing. The cost of which ranges from 600 to 1000 rubles, and write with a good action camera on the suspension.
FPV cameras we will see the number of TVL. What it is? This is the number of rows of sweep. For FPV camera will be enough 500-700TVL. The level of minimum illumination is important, this parameter is measured in suites. 0.01 Suite is enough for flights even in the evening. The viewing angle is equally important. 100-120 degrees are perfect. It would not be bad to have automatic correction of lights and cars. White balance.
The picture can be displayed on such a monitor.

You can buy 2x or 3-axis suspension for the camera. This thing allows you to rotate the camera and have a more stable picture, without jerks and twigs.
The thing is quite expensive.
I have this:
Naturally onboard camera
You can install LED backlight, squeezing, GPS tracer

As you realized that there would be no little investments to collect such an umbrella.
The price is approximately within 400-500 dollars.

This review is intended for beginners and carries theory, soon there will be a continuation. Well by assembly and setting.
I planned the cycle of articles and I will not rush to implement them.
I will be glad to criticism thank you For viewing.
I will open the cards: the end result


How to collect such a thing and raise into the sky?
The instruction will be in the next part)

Here is a small roller from the first flights with the suspension.

P.s everything was bought for personal funds. I plan to buy +99. Add to favourites I liked the review +62 +150