Every motorist knows that a high-quality foundation for a garage is the key to its durability and reliability. It depends on him what it will be. You can order the construction of such a structure from professionals, but in our country men are used to doing everything on their own. Therefore, in the article we will look at how to make a foundation for a garage with your own hands with high quality and inexpensively.

Before you think about how to properly fill the foundation for a garage, you need to decide on its type. Today in our country it is customary to use the following types of garage foundations:

• Tape
• Pile or columnar
• Monolithic or slab

The strip foundation for the garage is a reinforced concrete structure laid in the ground in the form of a strip. Today, this type of foundation is the most popular and widespread, since you can do it yourself.

A monolithic base for a garage premise implies the presence of one solid slab, which is both the base of the garage and its floor. This type of foundation is most often used only in cases where construction is planned in difficult conditions - the presence of a swampy soil structure, shallow groundwater or heaving of the earth. Compared with other types of foundation, the monolith can be considered the most reliable and stable. However, it also has a number of disadvantages - the complexity of technical calculations and the costly part of construction.

The columnar base of the garage is the deepening of special asbestos-cement or metal poles deep into the ground, which perform the function of support. The arrangement of such a foundation requires small physical and time costs (no more than a day, subject to four working hands). At the same time, you can erect the walls of the garage immediately after installing the piles.

Preparation

Before you make the foundation for the garage, you need to create a project for the future building. When forming it, the following indicators should be taken into account:

1. The level of occurrence of groundwater.
2. Type, heaving and level of soil freezing.
3. Construction Materials.
4. The presence of additional rooms and recesses in the garage (inspection pit, cellar, other utility rooms).
5. The weight of the future design.

Main works

Since the tape base is considered the most common and easiest to perform, using its example we will consider how to fill the foundation for a garage with our own hands.

The following tools will come in handy:

• Roulette
• Shovel
• Concrete mixer
• Level
• plumb line
• Bucket
• Hammer
• Wheelbarrow
• Pegs
• Fishing line or marking cord

Of the materials needed:

• Cement
• Gravel
• Sand
• rubble

markup

Before marking the foundation for the garage, you need to clean the working area from debris and fertile soil. Then, with the help of pegs, it is necessary to mark the corners of the future base of the garage. Between the hammered pegs, it is required to stretch a fishing line or marking cord along the entire perimeter of the planned foundation. It is also recommended to lay the diagonals of the obtained angles - at the place of their intersection, by the presence of curved angles, errors and bevels can be detected.

Excavation

The foundation trench is dug to a depth of 60 cm. Its width will directly depend on the width of the walls in the garage - often it is 10-20 cm larger. You can dig a trench yourself, or you can use an excavator.

Creating a pillow

In order for the foundation of the garage to stand firmly, its base must be strengthened with a special “cushion”. In the case of a strip foundation, the “cushion” is made of crushed stone and sand. Sand of large fractions is poured at the bottom of the trench and filled with water. The layer of compacted sand should be at least 10 cm. Then fine-grained gravel is poured onto tightly squeezed sand and also compacted tightly. The layer of crushed stone must be at least 10 cm.

formwork

It’s not at all difficult to pour the foundation for a garage with your own hands, but making the formwork yourself correctly is another matter. In the process of completing this task, maximum attention and experience will be required, since all details of the formwork must be perfectly executed. Therefore, most often beginners order the manufacture of formwork from professionals. Its height should be equal to the height of the foundation or be slightly higher than it. The material for its manufacture can serve as boards, chipboard, FSF. From the inside, the resulting structure is recommended to be laid out with a dense plastic wrap.

Reinforcement

To make a solid foundation for a garage with your own hands, it is advisable to reinforce its structure. Such a procedure will strengthen the reinforced concrete structure and protect it from the pressure of the weight of the garage and soil shifts. A garage whose foundation will be made of metal reinforcement is considered more stable than a building with plastic or composite rod reinforcement. It is better to fix the bars together manually with reinforcing wire and reinforcing pliers. Welding is allowed to be used only for fittings marked "C".

The metal frame of the garage foundation must be placed inside the concrete structure, since metal corrosion is inevitable as a result of stone crumbling. To fix the reinforcement, most often they use special glasses or other supports that allow it to be located at a height of 5 cm from the edge of the tape.

First, two metal bars with a diameter of 1 cm are laid parallel to each other at the bottom of the trench at a height of 5 cm. Using a step of 40-50 cm, the bars must be periodically fastened. Then the same bars must be placed vertically. Their coupling should take place with the same pitch as that of the horizontal bars. The upper horizontal bars are already attached to the installed vertical ones. In order to properly make a foundation for a garage with your own hands, and prevent its destruction, do not forget about the distance from the upper edge of the tape to the upper horizontal reinforcement.

Most often, the foundation is poured from a home-made mortar (10 kg of cement, 30 kg of sand, 40 kg of crushed stone and 40 liters of water). Crushed stone is best used fine-grained, as it is easier to compact.

Attention! Filling the entire perimeter of the tape at once is wrong. Professionals recommend pouring the solution in layers - 20-30cm each layer.

In order for the foundation filled with your own hands to adhere well, you need to wait until each of the layers dries. If work is carried out during the cold season, do not artificially dry the concrete. If the construction takes place in a very hot time, it is advisable to water the poured concrete with water and shelter from the wind and sun.

In the process of pouring the solution, it is necessary to ensure that voids do not form. To do this, you can use a deep vibrator or pierce the filled solution with a sharp bayonet.

1. In the process of creating a foundation drawing for a garage, it is advisable to plan its depth below the soil freezing level.
2. To build a garage correctly, you need to know that the deviation of its straightness in height should not exceed 0.5 cm per 1 m.
3. It is necessary to start building a garage no earlier than a week after pouring the foundation.

Every building needs some form of foundation to hold it firmly in place and protect it from moisture. The foundation began to be erected in ancient times. He was given special attention, thanks to which many medieval buildings have survived to this day. The garage is no exception. As in the construction of any residential building, a non-residential garage must have a good foundation under it. You need to clearly understand how to make sure that the support is reliable and at the same time does not become unreasonably expensive. Let's figure out how to fill a quality foundation with your own hands.

Why is a foundation needed?

The foundation evenly distributes the load from the building to the ground.

Protects the basement from moisture.

Thanks to the foundation, the basement is naturally ventilated.

Any soil moves with different intensity. A good foundation will protect the structure from damage associated with this factor.

Design and dimensioning

To make the foundation correctly, you first need to design it and carry out certain calculations on the distribution of the load on the ground where the structure will stand. This stage must be approached responsibly and with all rigor. Otherwise, it may begin to deform and this will lead to additional financial investments for its repair at least and the destruction of the building as a maximum. For the correct construction of the foundation, you need to follow the following rules:

Find out at what level the groundwater runs. The foundation should rest firmly on the ground, and water should not make it floating.

Study the structure of the soil on which the garage will be built.

Make drawings showing all the dimensions of the foundation and building.

Purchase all the necessary materials and tools in advance, think carefully about what kind of raw materials the base will be made of.

When you carry out calculations, take into account the mass of the foundation and its design features.

Calculate the technical parameters of the fundamental parts, for example, the diameter of the reinforcing bars and the distance at which they will be located, at what depth the foundation will be located and what will be its thickness, etc. All these actions will greatly simplify your further work.

Do not forget about waterproofing, which significantly increases the life of the base.

The depth of soil freezing must also be taken into account. The foundation must be buried below this level.

A garage building can be built right next to a residential building. This will significantly save finances on the purchase of materials. In this case, one important rule must be observed. In no case do not connect the foundation of the house and the garage. Their shrinkage may not be uniform. A heavier residential building shrinks more and will pull the garage along with it, which can lead to its destruction.

The ideal soil is one that does not swell, does not shrink, does not creep, has high strength and does not sag. But in practice, it is almost impossible to meet such soil. Therefore, the builders came up with a little trick to make the base more reliable. A well-packed sand and gravel cushion helps to cope with all these soil imperfections.

To make the building durable and stable, try not to make mistakes in the calculations.

Table: soil types

This type of soil is one of the most problematic for construction. The main disadvantage is heaving. This is because the moisture that gets into such soil practically remains in it. With the onset of frost, the water turns into ice and expands. It presses on the foundation, and with great force. Its deformation is inevitable. To reduce the pressure, you can lay the foundation below the freezing level. But this does not completely eliminate the problem. Of course, there are also options for insulation and construction of a drainage system. But this makes the job much more difficult.

Any soil can always be replaced with a more suitable one. This is done by digging a large pit larger than the foundation and replacing the existing soil with more suitable soil.

How to calculate the depth and width of the foundation

For most garages, a small foundation is suitable. If you are not going to make it two-story, then additional strengthening of the base is not required. It should go as far as one meter into the soil. This is quite enough. The classic width of the base is 400–600 millimeters. If materials such as sandwich panels, metal profiles or corrugated board are used for the construction of walls, then this width can be left. If the walls are made of timber, gas or foam blocks, then the width of the foundation is added to the size of the selected material.

Heavy materials, like brick, cinder block, concrete and reinforced concrete slabs, provide for the expansion of the foundation by 1500 centimeters for reliability.

If the groundwater level is high, then you should think about a shallow version of the foundation. And therefore, the material for building walls should not be heavy so that the base can withstand it.

Preparation of the necessary tools and materials

Most often, the foundation is made of prefabricated or monolithic concrete, rubble stone or brick. Less often it is erected from wooden piles. The choice of material depends on the mass of the structure and the properties of the soil.

Important! The use of red and silicate bricks for the construction of the foundation is not recommended, because moisture acts destructively on them.

For the equipment of the base layer, use frost- and weather-resistant materials. This layer must be carefully waterproofed to avoid additional financial costs for possible repairs. The amount of material depends on the size of the base and its type. Therefore, it is necessary to accurately calculate it directly to each individual. The same goes for the list of tools. It has its own for each type of material.

What types of bases are - what to choose

The most common option is tape. On it you can build heavy buildings of brick and concrete. The columnar foundation is also popular. It perfectly holds wooden and frame structures.

Tape

It has this name because of its appearance. It can be concrete, rubble, rubble concrete and brick. Depending on what it's made of.

The cheapest option, almost free of charge, is rubble. Despite the complexity of installation, it is popular because the materials for it can be found nearby and for free. They don't have to be bought. This option is distinguished by its reliability, durability, is not afraid of cold and moisture.

The rubble concrete option is a mixture of rubble, crushed stone and gravel. This is an average cost type of foundation. It can be poured into the trench without prior installation of the formwork. This saves some money.

A concrete foundation is a cement mortar that does not require additional elements to be added for greater strength and durability. He's fine without them. Compared to other types, this one is quite expensive, because it requires a lot of consumables.

The brick version is used infrequently. It does not differ in durability, especially if it is baked clay or silicate bricks.

How to pour and how much to dry

Decide on the dimensions of the fundamental part of the structure. The average depth of the trench under it is 0.7–1 meter, and the width is about half a meter. The latter depends on the material of the walls.

Then you need to mark the territory with the help of pegs and rope and dig a trench according to the markings.

At the bottom, lay a sandy-gravel half-mound. Tamp her well. Moisten the sand with water, and then compact.

The next step is the installation of formwork. You can make it yourself, or you can order or buy it ready-made. When making it with your own hands, remember that it must be made perfectly. This also applies to the size and the fact that all cracks must be carefully sealed so that concrete does not seep through it in the future.

Then comes the reinforcement.

The last stage is the uniform pouring of the concrete mixture. So that the foundation does not crack, at first it is advised to moisten it with water and cover it with polyethylene. It freezes for about a month. After that, you can build a garage.

Some professionals advise pouring concrete in several stages of 200-300 millimeters of concrete mix. Each subsequent layer begins to be poured after a slight drying of the previous layer.

Butobetonnoe

The most economical and reliable option. It is made from rubble stone, M400 cement, sand and gravel.

Description of step-by-step works

As with the tape base, you first need to mark up and dig a trench.

Then a sandy-graveled stone pillow spreads, which must be tamped down.

Cement, sand and water are mixed in a ratio of 1:2:1, respectively. Use a bucket as one part.

Lay the rubble stone at the bottom of the trench in one row. Fill it with sand-cement mortar so as to cover the stones. Then again put a row of stones. And re-fill them with solution. Continue until the entire trench is filled.

columnar

It is used for non-heavy structures, because it does not withstand heavy loads. Differs in an easier way of installation. Today, asbestos pipes are often used as pillars, where concrete is poured. It happens that wood is also used as pillars. This is already a pile option. Larch can withstand the weight of the structure well and is quite durable. But this option is uneconomical, because the tree will cost a pretty penny.

How to mark and build

Such a base will be ideal for those places where groundwater flows close to the surface. It can be installed to a depth of up to 350 centimeters or more. A significant disadvantage of this option is the impossibility of building a basement under the garage.

Corner posts are installed deeper than intermediate ones by 50–100 centimeters. Intermediate set in increments of 150-200 centimeters.

In order to put the poles, it is necessary to prepare holes for them in advance. The best way to do this is to use a drill.

There are 2 ways to install reinforced concrete pillars. According to the first reinforcement, they are placed in a pit and poured with a concrete mixture. The second is more complex, but has improved bearing capacity. For him, a roofing material is laid on the bottom, on which a pipe or wooden formwork is installed. Reinforcing bars are laid inside and everything is poured with a concrete mortar of cement not lower than M300 or M400. Separately, a base plate is made at least 100 millimeters. Then it is concreted to the pillars.

slab

This is the most expensive base option for a garage. It is a type of strip base and looks like a recessed reinforced concrete slab. But if construction takes place where there are heaving and subsiding soils, then it will become ideal and will justify its price with quality. In fact, it is one solid plate that levels the mobility of the soil. That is why it is also called a "floating" foundation.

A "floating" base is made using cement, reinforcement and roofing material. It can be ordinary, lattice monolithic or prefabricated and monolithic reinforced at the edges. Normal is the most economical option.

How to do it yourself

Dig a pit to the desired depth, which depends on the nature of the soil.

Lay a sand cushion and tamp it well. Ideally, this should be done in several layers, each of which is individually wetted with water and compacted.

Lay a reinforcing net to strengthen the structure.

Now you can pour the concrete solution.

After the solution has dried, you can proceed to the construction of the floor screed.

The most important thing when building a foundation is not to forget about the viewing hole, if it is planned. After all, it will be problematic to build it in a slab base later. It is better in this embodiment to provide a combined or strip foundation.

Video: if groundwater is nearby - building a pile foundation for a garage

The foundation is one of the most important stages in the construction of any structure. Treat its construction as responsibly as possible, and then your garage will stand for a long time. Consider all the nuances and recommendations outlined above. Good luck!

When constructing any garage, it is necessary to take care of its foundation, on which the strength and durability of the entire structure will depend. it is not difficult to do it yourself, but it is worthwhile to determine in advance the type of soil, working conditions. For a modern garage, almost any design is possible; among the varieties, the tape one stands out, which is very easy to manufacture, it does not take much time to build.

Garage foundation options

One of the best options for building a base for a garage is a strip foundation, which is extremely simple and highly reliable. It is a concrete tape that is poured around the perimeter of the future building to a height above the ground of 10 cm. How to build such a foundation with your own hands, we will consider in more detail below.

It is considered one of the most durable, but the costs for it are quite large. Such a foundation is suitable for almost any type of soil, for its construction it is necessary to have a certain depth, reinforce the space, and then fill it with concrete. The result is a monolithic slab that can withstand heavy loads.

If the soil is unstable, then it is best to install a slab floating foundation, which is able to properly distribute all the loads, prevent the destruction of the structure and the garage itself.

The pile foundation is rarely used, only if the construction is carried out on unstable ground. Such a foundation is being erected using metal pipes poured with concrete, which are installed to a depth below the freezing level of the soil. It is recommended to use a pile-screw type of foundation; after mounting the supports, the construction of a reinforced concrete grillage is required. The height above the ground should not be large, as the garage will simply be inconvenient to use.

Back to index

Concrete and floating foundation

It is considered an economical, but very durable design. The process of its construction is as follows:

• first, marking is done, a trench is dug, as for a conventional concrete tape;
• crushed stone and sand are poured to the bottom, which are carefully compacted;
• a layer of rubble stone is laid on the bottom, then everything is poured with a cement-sand mixture. After that, a layer of stone is laid out again and the solution is spilled. This is done until the cement is level with the ground.

It is an ideal option if construction must be carried out on weak, unreliable, complex soils. It allows you to withstand significant loads, soil vibrations. The do-it-yourself base is the following "pie":

• ground base;
• compacted sand cushion;
• geotextile layer;
• layer of concrete preparation;
• a layer of waterproofing made of dense material;
• laying reinforced concrete slab.

A similar floating foundation for a garage can be:

• monolithic reinforced concrete, reinforced only at the edges;
• monolithic lattice or prefabricated;
• ordinary floating.

Back to index

The choice of soil for the foundation for the garage

Before building a foundation for a garage, you should first determine the type of soil. This will provide the structure with stability, strength, and the ability to withstand loads. Consider the main types of soil, the possibility of building on them:

• rocky is considered ideal, since it does not sag, does not shrink, does not freeze. In many cases, experts advise simply clearing the site, and then starting building a garage. This is explained by the fact that it is difficult to work with rocky soil, it is almost impossible to dig a trench;
• gravel is also considered a good option, as it does not erode, does not shrink. The freezing depth is only 50 cm;
• clay soils for building a foundation with your own hands can cause certain difficulties. When freezing in winter, the soil swells, shrinks, and this leads to the formation of cracks in the foundation. This means that the depth when laying the foundation should be greater than the freezing depth;
• sandy soils are suitable for foundation construction, as they freeze weakly and do not shrink. The presence of porosity makes it possible to avoid such a negative phenomenon as water stagnation;
• loam, that is, a mixture of sand and clay, is not the best option for a foundation, since the soil freezes heavily, the depth can be up to 2 m. In this case, it is recommended to make a type of foundation that is not the most convenient for a garage - a pile foundation;
• completely unsuitable for building a foundation for a garage are such types of soil as silty, peat, fine sand. If there is no other option, then rather complex work will be required, for example, coarse sand embankment, other work to strengthen the construction site.

Back to index

The sequence of construction of the strip foundation

Most often, a strip foundation is placed for garages, since this option is not only simpler, but also cheaper, and is not inferior in strength to the others. For loam and sandy loam, the depth of the tape will be 40-70 cm, for gravel soil - about 50 cm. If construction is planned on a rocky foundation, then the site should simply be leveled, and then the building should be placed directly on the ground.

To build a strip foundation, you must follow the following procedure:

• to begin with, you will have to clear the site chosen for construction, remove all debris, and make markings. Next, you should accurately determine the dimensions, set the wooden pegs in the corners, check the diagonals using an ordinary tape measure. After that, the boundaries of the base are determined, the width of the tape is calculated. It should be 20% larger than the width of the wall for the future garage;
• now you need to dig a trench for the tape with your own hands, lay a sand cushion on the bottom, the thickness of which is 20 cm. The sand is poured with water, after which it is compacted. This procedure must be repeated twice;
• then it is placed in such a way that its height above the ground level is from 10 cm to 30 cm. The formwork is mounted as follows: stakes are driven into the corners of the trench to the required height, the same is done along the perimeter. Boards are nailed to them, no gaps should remain, otherwise the concrete will begin to flow out during pouring;
• it is best to prepare concrete for the base of the garage from cement grade M200, M250. Experts recommend using factory mixes that are of high quality;
• they rarely reinforce, but if this is necessary, then you need to use metal reinforcing rods that fit into two belts. The rods are fastened with knitting wire; they should not protrude above the surface of the future foundation;
• the tape is poured with one's own hands in one step, after pouring it is necessary to leave the structure for drying, curing;
• when the concrete dries (it can take up to three weeks), it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer of two layers of roofing material on the top of the tape, securing it with bituminous mastic.

D For many car enthusiasts, the garage is their second home. In most cases, private houses have no more than one floor, that is, the loads from its structures are relatively small. Sometimes a room for a car is generally assembled in the form of a sheet steel module, colloquially referred to as a "shell". But regardless of the design, during the construction or installation of a seemingly simple building, building codes and rules are often ignored, construction technology, in particular when building a foundation for a garage with your own hands. Which, of course, is very bad. Indeed, not only the durability of the building itself depends on the quality of work, but also the reliable storage of the car, and most importantly, the safe stay of people in this garage.

Content
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

The basis of any structure is a reliable, durable one that transfers the load from walls, columns, beams and other structures to the ground base. In this regard, it is customary to make the sole of the foundation wider than the foundation itself. This allows you to distribute the load over the largest possible area.

Types of foundations for garages

Depending on the type of garages, there are several main types of foundations:

2 . It is desirable to make the depth of the foundation sole below the level of soil freezing, and if the soils at the construction site are heaving, saturated with water, then it is necessary.

3 . When building small garages, there is no need to call surveyors. For a fairly accurate one, you can use the principle of the Egyptian triangle. This rule states that a triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5 is a right triangle. Visually, the construction of a rectangular foundation in terms of a similar method can be seen in the figure.

4 . It is forbidden to build foundations with a vertical deviation of more than 5 mm per meter of height, but not more than 1 cm for the entire height of the structure.

2 . Excavation. For free-standing foundations, it makes no sense to develop a pit or trench. It is enough to take out the soil under each foundation separately, which will significantly save time and money.

3 . Before concreting, it is necessary to make a cushion under the foundation from crushed stone of a fraction of 15-20 mm, 100 mm thick with compaction by tamping.

2 . Development of soil in trenches. The trench is arranged with slopes, in order to avoid the collapse of the soil. With a margin of at least 50 cm in width on each side, or at least on the outside, for formwork and subsequent waterproofing.

3 . The soil base must be compacted by ramming crushed stone into it.

4 . Often, the sole of the foundation is a flat mesh. The vertical part (foundation body) is reinforced with a spatial frame. Reinforcement can not be performed in dry, durable soils.

5 . If underground utilities are provided in the garage, it is necessary to provide openings for their input in advance. For this, at, in the places of passage of communications, segments of plastic pipes are laid. You can also use PET bottles of suitable size filled with water or sand.

6 . As well as in the option with, a blind area is arranged around the perimeter of the garage.

In addition to monolithic, both strip and column foundations can be prefabricated, from foundation blocks, or made of rubble masonry. The disadvantages of the prefabricated structure are the need for a truck crane when using large blocks. As for the foundations of rubble stone and small blocks, their disadvantage is the rather high labor intensity.

Do-it-yourself monolithic foundation slab for a garage

Compared to the types of foundations described above, a monolithic slab is the most expensive, if you count per meter of cubic concrete. This is due to the need to reinforce it with a spatial frame. On the other hand, the presence of a plate can successfully replace the floor in the garage.

As you can see, there is no particular difficulty here. When constructing frames, there is no need for electric welding, all frames are knitted with knitting wire. Embedded parts, if necessary, can be ordered at the nearest construction site or workshop where there is welding equipment (however, now this is not a problem). Armed with the general concepts outlined here, it will be easier for you to control the production of work in case of involving third-party workers or, armed with knowledge, to carry out the work yourself. Easy construction and a solid foundation!

The construction of a garage, like any other structure, begins with the creation of a foundation - a foundation. A reliable base will provide the “home” for your car with the longest possible service life.

Varieties

In construction, several basic types of foundation are common. They differ in the following parameters:

• according to the method of resting on the soil and configuration;
• according to the materials from which the foundation is laid.

Let's look at four main categories of foundations.

Columnar

The design of such a base is a pillar of stone, buta (crowbar stone) or brick. Supports are constructed in increments of approximately 1.2 to 2.5 meters under the most important load concentration points of the future structure (crossing walls, corners, in places where heavy boiler equipment is installed, etc.). In order to connect the separately standing pillars into a solid structure, beams are placed on top of them, connecting the heads of the racks, as a result, a finished base comes out.

Separately, it must be said about the columnar foundation, made according to the TISE technology. Its principle is to drill wells at the points of installation of supports, then strengthen them with reinforcement and fill them with concrete mortar. Another name for this base is columnar monolithic. The lower segment of the column (sole) has an extension.

Distinctive characteristics of the foundation:

• It can be used on light soils that are not prone to movement (displacement) and a strong increase in volume (heaving). Excellent in deep frozen heaving soils.
• An excellent solution for the construction of low-rise structures (timbered, panel, frame houses).
• Affordable price, minimal working hours (compared to other types of bases).
• Does not require a waterproofing device.
• It is used for buildings without basements.
• A strong, cheap foundation, intensively practiced in private construction.

Tape

The name of the foundation entirely corresponds to the visual representation of its structure. This is a reinforced concrete tape stretched under all load-bearing external and internal walls of the building.

The manufacture of such a base requires a large scale of earthworks and the cost of building materials, compared with the above-described counterpart.

Distinguish:

• Shallow strip foundation- suitable for light buildings made of blocks, logs, frame structures. The depth of the location is not more than 70 cm, that is, not below the border of soil freezing. Suitable for constant soils or heaving (dispersed), deep-freezing soils.

• Buried foundations- arranged below the freezing depth. Able to withstand heaving (increase in volume) and soil movement. Suitable for heavy brick, stone and other buildings. If the structure is built of light materials and has a small mass, then it is better not to make such a foundation, since the weight of the structure will be very small for the stability of the foundation during the period of heaving and soil movement.

• Monolithic tape- the finished formwork, reinforced with reinforcement, is poured with a concrete solution. Prefabricated tape - the basis of large foundation blocks of reinforced concrete. Weak point: when building a foundation of complex configuration, some inconvenience may arise. The main advantages of such foundations are: operational flexibility (suitable for almost all types of soil and types of buildings), as well as the possibility of building cellars, garages and basements.

pile

This type of base is optimal for weak soils, when it is necessary to transfer the load from the building to harder layers. In addition, the pile foundation is intensively practiced for the construction of houses on construction sites that have a slope, large irregularities. Of course, you can bring up the earth and level the construction site. Still, the use of piles will be cheaper.

The structure of the foundation consists of piles located separately, connected by a grillage (beam).

By lowering each pile to the calculated depth, you can easily get a horizontally even surface of the beam for erecting walls.

Types of piles:

• driven. For the construction of low-rise buildings, they are not practiced due to economic unjustification. Special equipment is needed to drive piles into the ground. As a rule, they are used in the construction of industrial and civil structures.
• bored. A well is drilled in the ground, which is filled with a concrete solution. The upper supporting parts of the piles are set at a certain height and connected with a grillage. Piles are reinforced and non-reinforced.
• screw. The piles are made of metal, at the end, immersed in the ground, special helical blades are provided. They are quite widely practiced in the construction of low-rise structures, since they make it possible to quickly prepare the foundation.

Stove (Swedish stove)

A powerful and heavy base for the construction of structures from blocks, logs, bricks. This type of base is also called floating, and it can be used on almost any soil (including clay, peat and with a high level of heaving). The slab foundation is cast on a sand and gravel pad to match the size of the structure or a little more.

When the soil moves, the base "floats", which saves the structure from destruction.

• A shallow slab base is built on the surface of the soil (the pillow is just being prepared). There is no possibility of building a basement.
• Recessed slab base. For its construction, a foundation pit is dug, on the basis of which concrete is poured to obtain a slab. Suitable for buildings with a basement, cellar, garage. Separately, it must be said about the modern slab base - the Swedish plate or UShP (insulated Swedish plate).

Its feature is side edges and bottom insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, conducting communications inside the platform, as well as a “warm floor”. UWB is a base with heating for flooring, foundation, flooring of the first floor.

On this slab, you can immediately build walls, and upon completion of construction, lay the finish flooring.

Which to choose?

The choice of a suitable foundation is an even more responsible and important task than the construction of the garage itself (except for a pencil case garage). Since the duration of the service life of the entire structure will depend on the reliability, stability and strength of the foundation.

So what kind of base to choose for the garage? Here is a rough set of simple rules:

• If the soil is swampy and the groundwater level is high, then it is better not to build a basement and a viewing hole, but to arrange a foundation either slab or on piles.
• Do you live in the permafrost zone? Then build a slab or pile foundation.
• If you do not need a basement and a viewing hole, then you can arrange either a shallow strip foundation or a slab base.
• If the site has a complex terrain, then a pile foundation with a reinforced concrete grillage is ideal.
• If a basement is required - only a strip foundation.

How to calculate?

Due to the fact that a capital garage can be built from cinder block, brick, gypsum block, foam block, aerated concrete blocks, gas silicate blocks, foam block bricks, expanded clay concrete blocks, and, as a rule, has small dimensions, it can be built according to hand-drawn schemes without detailed calculations . But the foundation for the garage space must certainly be calculated, since the depth of the foundation determines its wear resistance and bearing capacity during operation.

This value depends on:

• building weight;
• groundwater level;
• the maximum depth to which the ground freezes in winter.

These indicators are constantly taken into account when calculating the foundation. The main factor is the depth of freezing, as it reflects the level of expansion (heaving) of the soil. Therefore, the depth of the foundation (d) is determined by a simple formula: d = depth of soil freezing in the region + 20% (m).

With an increased level of groundwater, the stock can not be calculated, but pay close attention to the waterproofing of the foundation details.

Be sure to take into account the additional distance for making a sand or gravel cushion - 20-30 cm.

Dimensions

To calculate the width, you need to know what the walls of the garage will be built from. The thickness of the beam or foundation tape should be 20-30% greater than the thickness of the wall (for a wall of 300 mm blocks, a beam 360-390 mm wide is made along the length of all sides of the foundation).

To calculate the required height of the tape, you need to know what soils are at the base, what is the weight of the future building and machine. The base for the garage, the laying depth of which is determined by the level of freezing, is considered to be + 20-30 cm high to the resulting value. For hard soils, approximately 60-80 cm are taken (the total height from the bottom plane of the foundation to the top, excluding the pillow), for heaving ones - 1-1.5 meters.

The length of the piles is calculated according to the principle: the level of soil freezing + 1.5 meters, approximately 2.5-4-meter products will be required.

The perimeter must be considered in advance: the minimum allowable wall length is 3-6 meters. The best option for a garage 4x7 meters- in this there is enough space for the free deployment of a car and the movement of a person.

You can set personal dimensions: add 1-1.5 m to the length and width of the car (or another value that is most optimal for you).

How to do it step by step with your own hands?

The most common type of foundation for a garage is tape. Using his example, we will analyze the step-by-step process of building the foundation.

markup

The marking of the strip foundation involves creating an angle of 90 degrees. It is done like this:

• According to the plan of the future garage, we determine the location of the right front corner. We hammer the first peg. This will be the front corner of the garage.
• From it we measure the required distance to the second auxiliary peg and drive it in.
• Between the driven stakes we stretch the fishing line (rope).
• Now from both pegs we pull the ropes at a right angle perpendicular to the first line. And we put the third and fourth marks (we drive stakes).

The result is a rectangle. There are two methods to check the accuracy of markup:

• Measure the rectangle diagonally. They must be equal in length.
• From the corner, measure a distance of 3 meters in one direction and 4 meters in the other. With normal marking, the distance between the points will be 5 meters. Exactly the same check must be done on each of the corners.

If everything is marked out correctly, you won’t have to deal with rearranging the pegs from place to place, but you can proceed to the next step.

We dig a trench. You can dig a ditch with your own hands with a shovel. The bottom of the ditch must be perfectly level. Therefore, in the process, use the water level.

formwork

To create formwork, use sheets of plywood, boards or chipboard, with a thickness of more than 2 cm. Put together the shields and lower them into the ditch on both sides. Secure with wooden blocks. Install spacers of the same length between the shields. Thus, you will form the same formwork width around the entire perimeter.

Place supports on the outside of the formwork. Cover the bottom of the ditch and the side sections of the formwork with waterproofing to prevent leakage of liquid from the concrete solution.

How to pour concrete?

Concrete M 200-M 300 is suitable for the foundation for a garage. Concrete can be made independently or use factory material. A more reliable base will come out of the factory solution, because it is quite difficult to follow the technology of its manufacture at the construction site.

Work can be carried out in two ways:

• continuous;
• layered.

The continuous technique ensures high quality casting of the structure. If a short break is required in the work, the concrete solution is poured in layers.

Remember! The top layer must not be leveled; for stronger adhesion to subsequent layers, it must be uneven.

When ordering a factory solution, the work process should not cause problems. The solution is fed into the formwork from a concrete mixer, placed through specialized sleeves, compacted and leveled by vibration.

If possible, the pouring of the concrete solution should be carried out at a temperature of +15 to + 25°C. If it is required to fill the foundation in a cold season, special additives are used and the construction site is heated.

Waterproofing

After removing the formwork panels, the concrete surfaces are treated with waterproofing materials.

For a tape-type base, 3 methods of protection against excess moisture are required at the same time:

• vertical;
• horizontal;
• blind area.

The vertical method is carried out by means of welded or coating materials on the outer surface of the buried section of the foundation. Horizontal is made of welded materials on the surface of the concrete tape.

The blind area (concrete strip) prevents the penetration of rainwater to the structure. After you complete all work below zero, backfill with sand or soil.

Foundation laying from other materials

There are alternative options for the foundation device:

• from tires- you can use tires for trucks and cars, tractors, buses, aircraft (suitable only for light structures);
• sleepers- an excellent solution for the foundation, when you want to do without the use of traditional materials;

• from FBS– has considerable advantages, including excellent quality, as well as a relatively low price;
• from road slabs- can be used on almost any type of soil and in all climatic zones.

Features of docking with the house

All his life, a person tries to form a comfortable and concise space around him. One of the best solutions in this case is to add a garage to the house. The extension can be located both on the left and on the right side of the house. It is important to choose the shortest distance from the entrance to the yard to the garage. Actually, the location of the gate sets the location of the extension.

Ideally, an extension garage should be built during the construction of the house., then the house and the garage will stand on the same foundation. If you build a garage after the construction of the house, do not neglect the foundation device. A strong foundation as an increase in strength will not hurt. Then the house and the extension will shrink at the same time.

The smallest distance of doors and windows in the house from the technical structure is 2.5 meters, and the smallest distance from the balcony to the ridge of the garage roof is 2 meters. Since the extension belongs to fire hazardous technical buildings, during its construction, strict observance of all necessary conditions regarding fire safety is mandatory.

If it is planned to install hinged doors between the house and the garage, then you will need to comply with the “blind zone” or free space for the movement of canvases.

Extension pluses:

• The need for laying a separate route for water supply, heating, and electrical wiring is eliminated.
• Saving building materials.
• Simplifies room maintenance.

The extension allows you to equip the room with everything you need:

• garage with a pit;
• basement;
• cellar;
• workshop;
• electric lift.

The nuances of building a garage on a slope

When developing a garage project, it is necessary to take into account the level of steepness of the site. With its increase, the creation of a building project becomes more difficult. Sometimes, the high steepness of the slope makes it impossible to build a garage or a house. To create an underground part of a garage or a house, you will need a grillage pile, columnar, tape stepped or multi-level slab foundation.

It is possible to set the slope level during construction with the difference in heights of the lower and upper points of the construction site, projected onto a line parallel to the horizon plane. This parameter is measured as a percentage. For example, if the horizontal distance is 100 meters, and the elevation of the points is 15 meters, this means that the slope of this section is 15%.

In this regard, the territory can conditionally be:

• Rivne. When the slope of the surface is less than 3%. This is the most prosperous site with the lowest costs during the construction of the building.
• With a slight slope from 3% to 8%. Such areas are suitable for the construction of structures without a basement. In order to expand the site from the piedmont side, you will need to add soil.
• With an average slope of 9% to 20%. In such a situation, you can build a basement. The terrace does not need to be leveled, but the lower floor is built by removing part of the slope soil. This is a very good option for building an underground garage in the basement, with access to it from the direction of the slope.
• With a strong slope of more than 20%. This option requires a thorough development of the construction project for the possibility of maximum exploitation of the gentle slope. The cost of such a project is quite high.

Useful advice: for any slope of the site, the building should be located at its highest point in order to create conditions for the natural flow of water. At the same time, it should be taken into account: if there are more sections above the inclined plane, then it is necessary to arrange the flow of water from these places not through ditches, but through specially provided pipelines, which minimizes soil erosion.

When constructing a building, the choice must be made in favor of the site on which the slope is directed to the west or south, this will affect the rate of heating of the soil, especially in spring. The greater the slope of the inclined plane to the sun's rays, the more heat it will receive. This is very visible when the snow melts in spring.

In addition, at low temperatures and at night, the air cools down the slopes and fog begins to collect. As a result, if the site for the construction of the structure is located near the lower point of the depression, there will be a night or seasonal temperature difference on it, which is formed by the upper and lower points of the site.

When constructing a structure at the highest point of the site:

1. The foundation is minimally exposed to surface and groundwater.
2. In this situation, it is easier to divert surface water from the upper point and, if necessary, use it to irrigate a personal plot.
3. Construction at the highest point makes it possible to optimally solve the problem of water diversion.

It must be realized that on such a difficult terrain, financially profitable construction will not work. The costs of zero cycle, digging a hole, drainage and monolithic works, building retaining walls and so on can cover the price of the garage itself.

Remember: regardless of the fact that the garage is not a responsible structure, it must be built on a solid foundation in compliance with all rules and regulations. Only in this way will the "housing" for your car be ideally protected from the negative effects of nature.

You can find out how to properly dig a trench for a strip foundation by watching the video below.