The foundation for the stove in the bath: preparation and construction. The foundation in the bath for the stove: types, tips and descriptions of existing structures Dimensions of the curbstone for the stove

15.07.2023 Secrets of preparation and storage

In the distant past, in a Russian hut, no one specially erected a foundation for a stove, they simply put the stove on the floor, and in order for it to withstand the load, they simply strengthened the floor beams or laid additional ones.

Nowadays, the question of whether it is necessary to set a foundation for a stove at all is simply not correct, because a quality foundation is not only stability, but also protection of the stove from destruction, cracks, and, of course, fires. Each foundation for a specific furnace has its own specific requirements and criteria, we will consider them in more detail.

Types of bases

Speaking about what kind of foundation is needed for the furnace, three main options are considered:

rubble concrete;
concrete continuous pouring;
pile foundation.

The classic foundation for the furnace is built from cement-based rubble, or from concrete. The base itself should be 50-100 mm larger than the area of the furnace itself around the entire perimeter. The height of the foundation should be the same as the foundation of the bathhouse itself or a wooden house.

Roofing felt or 2 layers of roofing felt for waterproofing are laid on the finished base, bricks are laid on the insulation and outlets are prepared from metal corners, from which fire-prevention cuts are obtained.

Construction nuances

The first nuance is that the foundation for the furnace is not connected with the main foundation of the building. In addition, if they are located close enough, then a sand cushion about half a meter wide is necessarily laid between them.

The second nuance: in no case should the old foundation be concreted, since with further installation on the entire structure of the furnace, shrinkage will occur, cracks will appear and many other problems will arise.

What depth should it be?

The most classic foundation for a furnace is erected with a solid slab. The depth of the base depends on the following factors:

ground water level;
soil type;
soil freezing depth.

To avoid surprises in the future, before starting the construction of the foundation, it is worth conducting a geological survey of the entire site, its cost fluctuates around $ 50. Thus, you can get accurate data on the level of groundwater, soil type, depth of soil freezing. This data will help determine exactly what depth of the foundation should be chosen.

Depth calculation example:

sandy and dry soils - 80 cm;
heaving - below the freezing zone, at least 1 meter;
the weight of a brick oven is calculated according to the formula: 1350xV=P, V is the volume of masonry.

Construction errors and their consequences

If mistakes were made in the design and construction, then the following problems may come out in the future:

through cracks on the furnace and its foundation;
destruction and collapse of masonry (brick oven);
violation of the integrity of the chimney;
subsidence of the base, the stove will be lopsided.

The biggest problem is that such misses are not amenable to normal repairs. The situation will worsen, and the furnace will collapse.

Location of the furnace

After the depth of the future foundation for the furnace is determined, its dimensions, it is necessary to choose the right place where the stove will stand. This directly affects the location and outlet of the chimney. An unsuccessfully chosen place in the future will create a bunch of problems with bypassing the supporting structures and lengthening the chimney pipe, and its output to the street.

concrete foundation

For its construction we need:

cement, if the soil is saturated with sulphates and the groundwater is high enough, use sulphate-resistant cement under the brand SSCC;
coarse-grained sand is needed, without inclusions, the best option is mountainous, but river and sea ones are also suitable;
formwork;
crushed stone;
rolled waterproofing material, such as roofing material;
trough for mixing the solution;
shovel bayonet and shovel;
level;
hammer and nails;
construction stapler.

To build a quality foundation for a stove that will last for many years, you must clearly follow all the instructions. Let's consider each stage in detail.

foundation pit

Above, we already wrote about the depth of the foundation for the furnace. The pit should be deeper than the level of soil freezing, 100 mm wider than the foundation itself - this is done in order to exclude the influence of soil movement.

Dry sandy soils - we take a depth of about 80 cm, heaving soils - at least a meter.

Pillow

At the very bottom we lay a layer of sand by 15 cm, fill it with water. After the water leaves, add more sand to the original level, pour water again. After that, crushed stone and broken brick are laid, the thickness of this layer should be about 20 cm. The layer is compacted, more sand is poured, water is pouring. So we repeat until the sand stops settling.

Formwork and reinforcement

We lay the formwork along the perimeter of the pit, make supports every 50 cm. There must be at least 10 cm of empty space between the formwork and the ground. If your earth is very dense and does not crumble, then you can do without formwork.

Reinforcing meshes are ordinary, ready-made options can be found on sale.

Pouring concrete

The mixture for pouring the foundation for the oven is made according to the following recipe:

1 part cement;
3 parts sand;
5 pieces of crushed stone;
water.

Everything is mixed, the solution is poured into the formwork. The formwork must first be moistened so that the tree does not absorb water from the concrete mixture. The filling goes in layers of 20 cm, each layer must be whipped to remove air from the mixture. Thus, they reach the highest point. The top of the foundation is leveled and covered with roofing felt or tarpaulin.

An important point: during the drying time (about 3 weeks), the foundation must be constantly watered and preferably protected from the sun.

After the formwork is removed, the voids between the ground and the foundation are filled with fine gravel and coarse sand.

concrete base

The first step is the marking of the pit, as well as the concrete foundation for the furnace, the rubble one requires the size of the pit to be 10-15 cm larger in order to avoid heaving of the soil. A layer of crushed stone of 15 cm is poured to the bottom, the layer is rammed.

The formwork is installed in the same way as in the example with a concrete base.

Further, a layer of large stones is laid on the bottom, but not more than 15 cm in diameter. Crushed stone is poured on top to fill the voids between the stones. Above is the laying of a cement-sand mortar, prepared in a ratio of 1 to 3. Cement is taken at least 400 grades.

Each new layer of stones is laid only after a day. If the layers are not allowed to settle, then in the future this will significantly reduce the life of the rubble foundation. In general, the pouring is completed when about 7 cm remains to the floor level. After that, the building level is taken and the evenness of the surface is checked. If there are deviations, then they are removed using a cement-sand mixture.

The leveled foundation is covered with polyethylene and left for a couple of weeks to dry completely. In this case, the solution must be watered daily and try to protect it from the sun.
After a couple of weeks, the formwork is removed and waterproofing is carried out. As an option, molten tar is applied to the foundation. All voids between the furnace foundation and the ground are filled with coarse sand and fine gravel.

As you can see, a rubble foundation is being erected for a furnace in almost the same way as an ordinary concrete one.

Pile foundation for the furnace

This is one of the modern and effective ways of building foundations. This option is great for both baths and wooden houses.

The essence of the method is that a reinforced concrete slab 15-20 cm thick is installed on piles or columnar supports - this depends on the depth of soil freezing.

The installation of such a foundation is extremely simple:

Holes with a diameter of about 20 cm are drilled to the desired depth in the ground. Crushed stone with a layer thickness of 10-15 cm is poured into the bottom. The layer is well rammed. Further, tubes made of roofing felt are inserted into the pits, they serve as formwork. They are filled with concrete. All this is left to dry for a period of 14 days.

As soon as the pillars fully gain strength, a reinforced concrete slab is installed. On the upper edge, waterproofing is carried out with the help of roofing material. The surface is lubricated with hot bitumen or cold mastic, roofing material heated by a burner is laid on top.

Foundation for a metal furnace

A metal stove, even if it is made of light thin steel, also requires a separate pedestal. This is due to the fact that if the oven does not stand level, this can lead to many problems.

Algorithm for building a foundation for a metal furnace weighing no more than 150 kg.

Stage 1. We mark and dig a pit with a depth of no more than half a meter.
Stage 2. We lay a layer of rubble and ram it. The final layer must be at least 30 cm thick.
Stage 3. The concrete solution is poured, it is left for a day so that it sets.
The solution is made in the following proportion: 1h. Cement, 4 hours. Sand, water until the mixture looks like fatty sour cream. At this stage, we laid the sole of the foundation.
Stage 4. When the layer is taken, it is necessary to lay roofing material on it for waterproofing.
Stage 5. The rest is poured with concrete, but according to a different recipe: 1 hour. Cement, 4 hours. Gravel, 3h. Sand and water.
Stage 6. The upper end layer aligns with the level. It must be perfectly level.

The foundation hardens within a few weeks. Don't forget to keep it moisturized.

In the article, we examined what types of foundations for stoves are, how to make such a foundation, to what depth to lay.

We hope our advice will help you in building your stove in a bathhouse or a wooden house.

Current building codes and regulations require that sauna stoves be installed on a pre-arranged reliable and solid foundation. The absence of such a result can lead to adverse consequences of varying severity: from a decrease in the service life of the furnace to its early complete destruction. That is why the issue of choosing the type of construction and directly arranging the furnace foundation must be approached after having previously studied the key requirements and provisions in relation to this moment, which you are invited to do in the course of studying the information below.

For most novice stove builders who decide to independently equip the structure in question, first of all, 2 main questions arise: is it necessary to make a foundation for the stove and why?

You can understand whether the furnace needs its own foundation by knowing its weight. For example, a compact metal unit weighing up to 200-250 kg will quite normally stand on a solid bath floor without requiring its own support base (you just need to comply with some fire safety requirements, which will be discussed separately later).

The mass of brick aggregates can vary over a very wide range - from several hundred kilograms to 10 tons. In private baths, brick ovens are most often erected, weighing up to 1.5 tons. In accordance with current requirements, if the total weight of the masonry is more than 750 kg, the installation of an individual base is mandatory.

The need for arranging the foundation is directly dictated by the draft of the bathhouse and the furnace structure, as well as soil movements. If you build a heavy stove just on the floor of the bath, the pressure of the unit on the foundation of the main structure will be extremely uneven. As a result, the settlement of the structure will also be uneven, which will lead to its skew.

Brick prices

Recommendations for choosing the design of the furnace foundation

Basic requirements for the furnace foundation

There are 2 main requirements for the furnace foundation: firstly, it must be reliable, and secondly, soil movements should not have a significant impact on its design. Choosing the appropriate characteristics of the foundation, you need to focus on the characteristics of the soil at the construction site and the depth of its freezing.

Information on the standard depth of soil freezing in different areas is given in the following table.

Table. Depth of soil freezing in different regions

Regions	Depth of soil freezing, cm
Vorkuta, Surgut, Nizhnevartovsk, Salekhard	240
Omsk, Novosibirsk	220
Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Kurgan, Kustanay	200
Yekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Perm	190
Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg	180
Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk	170
Samara, Uralsk	160
Vologda, Kostroma, Penza, Saratov	150
Voronezh, Perm, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Yaroslavl	140
Volgograd, Kursk, Smolensk	120
Pskov, Astrakhan	110
Belgorod, Kursk, Kaliningrad	100
Rostov	90
Krasnodar	80
Nalchik, Stavropol	60

Table. Features of laying the foundation

Soil type	Foundation depth, cm	Mortar for laying the foundation	Note
dry sandy	50	Lime	-
dry rocky	With a mass of the furnace up to 2 tons - from 25; with a furnace mass of more than 2 tons - 40	Lime	The foundation can not be laid out
Bulk (soil with large fragments)	Down to hard ground	Lime-cement or cement	Such soil is dangerous for the construction of the furnace
Clayey	75-100	Clay sand or clay cement	-
Wet	100	lime-cement	-

As noted, a significant parameter that affects the final characteristics of the supporting structure is the weight of the unit installed / laid out on top of it. It is customary to calculate the mass of the furnace according to the formula 1350*V. The coefficient V in this case indicates the volume of masonry in m3, taking into account the mass of bricks and the mortar used.

If the stove weighs no more than 750 kg, instead of the foundation, you can equip a simple protective structure. The scheme of actions is as follows:

The considered design will help to improve the thermal insulation characteristics of the bath floor and will comply with the established fire safety requirements.

Important! The dimensions of the stacked sheets are selected so that they protrude at least 250 mm from each side of the oven.

A similar base can be used to install a metal sauna stove weighing up to 250 kg. Along with this, many builders believe that the considered option is outdated and not safe enough, which is why it is recommended to equip a separate base even for a relatively small stove, especially if the floors in the bath are made of wood. For example, you can make a brick foundation (recommendations will be given in the appropriate section). Otherwise, the decision remains with the owner.

Asbestos sheet prices

asbestos sheet

Classification of foundations according to the level of deepening

In practice, for the arrangement of a bath stove, support structures of a buried and non-buried type are most often used. You can find information about each of the mentioned options in the following table.

Table. Classification of furnace foundations according to the level of deepening

Construction type	Description
	Recessed type structures are suitable for use in the following cases: - when equipping a furnace weighing more than 2000 kg; - in the case of construction work on loess soil or soil consisting of porous clay. When water saturates porous clay, it expands, especially as it freezes. Loess soils, when wet, take on the consistency of slurry. On such soils, the depth of the foundation should exceed the level of soil freezing (on average, more than 100 cm). Such foundations do not need to be associated with the supporting structure of the main structure - the situation is relevant for both strip and slab supports of a recessed type.
	Furnaces weighing up to 2000 kg (up to 1500 kg on average) are often built on shallow foundations. In particular, such support structures perform well on sedimentary and continental soils with a very low level of groundwater penetration. The average depth of the considered structures does not exceed 700 mm. If possible, a shallow furnace foundation is recommended to be connected with the support of the bath structure. The ligament is carried out according to the method of anchoring (connecting) reinforcement. This allows you to significantly reduce, and sometimes even completely get rid of the movement of the foundation during heaving of the soil.

Construction type

Description

Recessed type structures are suitable for use in the following cases:
- when equipping a furnace weighing more than 2000 kg;
- in the case of construction work on loess soil or soil consisting of porous clay.
When water saturates porous clay, it expands, especially as it freezes. Loess soils, when wet, take on the consistency of slurry. On such soils, the depth of the foundation should exceed the level of soil freezing (on average, more than 100 cm).
Such foundations do not need to be associated with the supporting structure of the main structure - the situation is relevant for both strip and slab supports of a recessed type.

Furnaces weighing up to 2000 kg (up to 1500 kg on average) are often built on shallow foundations. In particular, such support structures perform well on sedimentary and continental soils with a very low level of groundwater penetration.
The average depth of the considered structures does not exceed 700 mm. If possible, a shallow furnace foundation is recommended to be connected with the support of the bath structure. The ligament is carried out according to the method of anchoring (connecting) reinforcement. This allows you to significantly reduce, and sometimes even completely get rid of the movement of the foundation during heaving of the soil.

Classification of foundations for sauna stoves by type of construction

The range of designs of furnace foundations is not limited to tape and slab supports alone. With a strong desire and the presence of such a need, the furnace can even be built on a columnar structure or a foundation of another type. Information about the available support structure options and their features is given in the following table.

Table. Existing designs of furnace foundations

Construction type	Description
	One of the most popular types of support structures. There are 2 subtypes of such foundations: - floating belt - suitable for small size and weight ovens; - recessed design - the best option for massive furnace units. It requires a lot of labor compared to the closest analogue - a slab foundation - but surpasses it in many characteristics.
	A monolithic slab is poured under the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe sauna stove. The design requires relatively small labor and financial costs for the arrangement. Thanks to the reinforcement, the slab becomes very rigid and resistant to soil movements (the structure moves with the soil). Along with this, possible movements of the base are extremely undesirable and can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure installed on top of it, i.e. ovens. Filling the slab is advisable only in areas whose soils do not experience strong heaving, but have a low bearing capacity, the furnace is heavy, and also if groundwater occurs close to the surface of the soil or the owner simply wants to save on the construction of a supporting structure.
	If the soil on the site is clay / loamy, the construction of the usual strip or slab foundation may become impossible due to the strong heaving of the soil. Along with this, even some dry soils and sandstones are prone to seasonal movements. In order for the sauna stove to stand as reliably as possible and serve as long as possible, a columnar foundation can be used as a supporting structure, even if this increases the final cost of the work performed. Important! You cannot build a sauna stove on pillars alone. In order to realize the plan, a foundation slab is built on top of the dried and hardened support pillars.
Furnace foundation on screw piles Furnace foundation on screw piles	This design has a number of advantages: - Savings on earthworks. In the case of erecting a furnace in a bathhouse built on a strip foundation, piles can be screwed into the ground without wasting time and effort on preliminary leveling of the workplace and other preparatory work; - high resistance to compressive loads; - excellent bearing capacity; - minimum draft, which allows you to start laying the furnace without wasting time waiting for the draft of the supporting structure. The main disadvantage of the foundation on screw piles is the high cost of arrangement. In addition, without having the appropriate experience, it is extremely difficult to cope with screwing in elements without the services of third-party craftsmen. But the arrangement of such a foundation takes no more than 1 day, and piles serve up to 50-70 years or more.

Classification of foundations according to the material of manufacture

Many developers, when planning the arrangement of the foundation, believe that this work can be carried out exclusively using concrete mortar and reinforcement. The option is the most popular, but not the only one. You can find key information regarding this issue in the following table.

Table. Materials for the manufacture of furnace foundations

Production material	Description
	The optimal support structure for a heavy brick kiln. Concrete supports are more durable than their brick counterparts and require less significant financial costs for the arrangement (if there are no problems with ordering / extracting sand and gravel). The disadvantages of a concrete structure are reduced to more significant labor costs for its arrangement and the inability to dismantle the foundation without destroying it.
	It is used mainly in the construction of small in size and mass kiln structures made of brick and metal. It’s definitely impossible to build a Russian oven on a brick foundation - the foundation will simply break. An additional advantage of this design is the possibility of a significant reduction in the time spent on the arrangement of the supporting structure for the sauna stove.
	One of the most popular, easy to install and budget options for a supporting structure for a sauna stove. It is a good alternative to a buried concrete base, especially if there is a large amount of stone or broken bricks available - labor costs will be minimal.

Video - What kind of foundation is needed for the oven

Important principles for arranging a furnace foundation

In order for the foundation for the stove in the bath to serve as long and as efficiently as possible, a number of important rules must be observed when arranging it.

Firstly, the construction of the supporting structure for the furnace unit is most preferably carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation for the bath. At the same time, the depth of their laying should be maintained at the same level. It is forbidden to pour the foundation in the future on an already equipped base - in this case, the shrinkage intensity will vary, which will result in the destruction of the bath stove. The way out of this situation is the device of a columnar, pile or other suitable type of foundation that is not connected with the main supporting structure.

Secondly, the construction of the furnace foundation is carried out separately from the base of the walls, so that the supporting structure has the conditions for free settlement. In order to comply with the above rule, a 30-50 mm gap is left between the stove support in the bathhouse and the base of the wall, which is then covered with sand, followed by tamping.

Thirdly, it is necessary to correctly determine the dimensions of the foundation in accordance with the design dimensions of the furnace. As noted, the boundaries of the foundation should protrude beyond the limits of the sauna stove by at least 50 mm, optimally - 60-100 mm.

The foundation and elements of the lower strapping of the bath from a bar

Fourthly, the chimney should be equipped as close as possible to the center of the supporting base. If a massive furnace with a powerful chimney is being built, it may be necessary to install an individual support for the latter. Regardless of the chosen type of base (pillars or tape / slab), the most even distribution of loads on the supporting structure should be ensured. Otherwise, the foundation, and with it the furnace, will quickly become unusable.

Fifthly, between the sauna stove and its foundation, a waterproofing layer must necessarily be equipped. Most often, this work is done with the help of roofing material, glued to the foundation in 2 layers on molten bitumen. Without waterproofing, the brickwork will dampen and collapse. In addition, the level of humidity in the bath will increase, which will not have the best effect on the convenience of visiting and operating it.

preparatory work - from clearing the site to filling the pit / trench and / pits with sand and gravel - is carried out in a similar manner for each type of foundation that requires appropriate preliminary measures (except pile). For example, the sequence of actions will be discussed in the first instructions. You can take them as a basis for the construction of the supporting structures considered in the future;
the procedure for arranging buried and shallow foundations remains the same. Only the depth of their laying changes directly. Recommendations for determining the appropriate numerical value for this characteristic have been provided previously;
the instructions will give recommendations on arranging a pit of a certain depth, drilling holes to a certain level, etc. The indicated numerical values are given as an example only. The depth value is determined individually for each specific case;
the sequence of actions when arranging a strip and slab foundation remains identical, therefore, the instruction for structures of these types will be issued in the form of a general guide called "Device of monolithic furnace foundations". Only the parameters of the pit change. In the case of a slab foundation, they are determined by the design dimensions of the furnace being erected / installed. When pouring the strip foundation, the width of the trench is kept at an average of 70-120 cm (the values \u200b\u200bmay vary proportionally, taking into account the size of the furnace), depending on the heaving of the soil. Recommendations in this regard are given in the table.

Important addition! The types of supporting structures considered below are optimally suited for the subsequent construction of brick kilns on them. If desired, metal sauna stoves can also be installed on such foundations, but in most cases this is impractical in terms of labor and financial costs - metal units create a much lower load, as a result of which the requirements for supports for them are noticeably reduced. Recommendations for arranging the optimal support structure for a metal furnace will be given separately.

waterproofing prices

waterproofing

The device of monolithic furnace foundations

The scheme of the device of a monolithic concrete foundation for a bath stove is shown in the following image. The scheme clearly displays the main layers that make up the structure.

Before you start learning the foundation sequence, check out a few helpful tips for each major step of the job.

The functions of the basis for future pouring are taken over by a compacted sand cushion 15-20 cm thick and a similar layer of crushed stone.

In order for the filling to be done correctly and efficiently, formwork is installed in the prepared pit. For its assembly, it is preferable to use boards with a width of about 100 mm and a thickness of about 20 mm - a material with such characteristics will not allow concrete to seep into the ground and will reliably hold the mortar after pouring. In general, your task is to obtain a wooden box without a top and bottom according to the size of the trench / pit.

Fastening the boards is best done with screws - it will be more convenient to disassemble the formwork in the future. The formwork is subject to waterproofing, for example, with the help of glassine or roofing material. For greater reliability, a similar waterproofing can be pre-laid in a pit / trench even before filling sand and gravel.

For reinforcement, it is recommended to use steel bars with a diameter of 1-1.2 cm. Reinforcement is best done in 2 rows (when erecting a support for a relatively light furnace, it is possible in 1 row). To do this, the reinforcing bars are tied into a mesh with cells of 15x15 cm or 20x20 cm. The connection of the bars at the intersection is carried out using a knitting wire or special clamps, which is more convenient. You can see the appearance of the mentioned clamps in the following image.

Concrete pouring should be done in one go. Directly, the concrete solution must meet a number of requirements:

have a strength class of at least M-300;
correspond to the coefficient of water permeability and at the level of W 8;
have a frost resistance of at least F 200.

These indicators will allow you to get the most reliable and durable foundation. If you are building a relatively light oven, you can use a material with more modest characteristics.

You either order concrete or prepare it yourself according to a standard recipe: a share of cement (from M400) for 3 shares of sifted sand, 4-5 shares of crushed stone and pure water in an amount equal to about 50% by weight of cement. At the exit, you should get a homogeneous mixture of medium consistency.

Helpful advice! Some developers, in order to save money, make foundations from ready-made blocks or slabs. It makes sense to use them only if they got it for free. Otherwise, this solution has many disadvantages: lower rigidity compared to a monolith, the need to involve a crane or many assistants for laying slabs / blocks (reinforced concrete products weigh quite a lot), etc. In addition, a screed will still have to be poured on top of the finished products.

A step-by-step guide to self-installing a monolithic foundation is given in the following table.

Table. Foundation pouring

Stage of work	Description
	As noted, the pouring of tape and slab bases is carried out in a similar manner. Recommendations for choosing the optimal type of support structure in accordance with the conditions of a particular case were given earlier.
	Nothing complicated with the project. Your task is to draw on paper on a scale of the scheme of the equipped foundation. In accordance with the diagram, transfer the foundation plan to the site. Marking is carried out using rods or pegs driven in at the corners of the structure with a mandatory check of the verticality of the installation by a plumb line, as well as a rope pulled between them. Such elementary markup will help you better navigate the process of excavation.
	The markup is ready. You can dig a pit / trench with the planned parameters.
	Using screws and a screwdriver, assemble boards measuring 10x2 cm into formwork according to the size and shape of the foundation being built. Install the finished formwork into the pit / trench.
	As noted, the formwork installed in the trench is covered with a layer of waterproofing material, which can be used as roofing material / glassine.
	Fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of sand, soak it with water and carefully tamp. Repeat until you get a layer 15-20 cm thick. Then repeat the same thing, but use gravel instead of sand. The recommended layer thickness is the same.
	Recommendations for the assembly of a reinforcing mesh were given earlier.
	After laying the reinforcement, the trench / pit is poured with concrete mortar. The fill is leveled with a rake or shovel. It is important that the concrete is evenly distributed over the entire area of the structure.
	The pour surface must be even. A long rule or a suitable piece of board will help you to ensure that this requirement is met. In conclusion, make a control check of the evenness of the “top” of the pour using a level and leave the concrete structure to gain strength for a month. Helpful advice! To prevent the foundation from cracking during the drying process, cover it with plastic wrap. Raise the film daily and spill the structure with water - thanks to this, all the cement will react, and the finished support structure will have the highest possible strength.

A diagram of the proposed support structure is shown in the following image.

The principle is quite simple: 4 pillars are arranged at the locations of the corners of the future foundation slab, after which the slab is poured directly or a ready-made reinforced concrete product is mounted.

The arrangement of columnar supports with a foundation slab is presented in the following table.

Table. Construction of a columnar foundation with a base plate

Stage of work	Description
	The preparation of the foundation for the sauna stove is identical to the preparatory measures carried out before the arrangement of the supporting structure for any other structure: - the site is cleared of debris; - any obstacles that can interfere with the construction of the foundation are eliminated; - the top fertile soil layer with grass is removed; - the bottom of the formed recess is leveled with a rake.
	As noted, the foundation will consist of 4 pillars installed in the corners of the future base plate. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly mark the corners so that the finished structure is even and corresponds to the design dimensions. To mark the first corner, stick a rod or bar in its location and align the element in accordance with the plumb line. Take the rope and tape measure. Measure the distance to the second planned corner, insert the next rod in this place, check with a plumb line and tie it with a rope to the previously installed reference rod. Repeat until you have marked all 4 corners. To check, measure the length of the diagonals. If they are not the same, change the location of the rods stuck into the ground until the mentioned values match.
	To prepare the recesses, use a manual or electric/petrol drill - whichever is available. Select the depth of the pits in accordance with the design data (previously recommendations were given). It is most reliable when the pillars go into the ground by about 120-150 cm, and another 30 cm of the support rises above ground level. Asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 25 cm will be used as formwork for the subsequent pouring of the pillars. Drill holes with a diameter of 5 cm more than the mentioned value. Fill the bottom of each pit with a 15-20 cm layer of sand, on top - the same layer of gravel. All layers must be compacted. For tamping, you can use an improvised tool made on your own: just pin a handle to a long log. There is nothing complicated with the rammer either: lower the log into the pit and knock it on the backfilled layer several times.
	Proceed to the device of columnar supports. The procedure is as follows: - the asbestos pipe is lowered into the pit and the first 20-30 cm layer of solution is poured into the cavity of the product; - the pipe rises, the solution fills the bottom of the pit (as a result, a support platform for the post is created, which makes the foundation even more reliable); - the pipe is lowered and leveled by a plumb line (all pipes together must be additionally leveled); - 20-30-cm layers of mortar are poured until the pipe is filled to the desired design height; - vertical reinforcing bars are driven into the columns with pouring for the entire length with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Usually 2-3 rods are installed on each post (if there is not enough space, then 1). To make further work more convenient, it is necessary that the upper ends of the reinforcement rise slightly above the fill and, at the same time, have a thread for subsequent screwing of the nut with a washer; - the remaining free space between the support column and the walls of the recess is covered with sand. Give concrete a few days to set strength, at the same time rest. Note! The photo shows a columnar foundation for the bath as a whole.
	Make a formwork for the foundation slab. For the construction of the “form”, a sheet of chipboard or boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm is quite suitable. In this example, a chipboard sheet is used. It needs to be cut into 5 pieces. From one part you will make the bottom according to the dimensions of the future base, focusing on the dimensions of the equipped furnace. The remaining 4 sawn elements (recommended height of about 20-30 cm) will be used to build the walls. Drill holes in a large sheet and put the bottom of the formwork on the studs sticking out of the posts. After leveling the sheet, tighten the nuts with washers on the studs. The walls can be attached from the outside with bars, corners or other elements suitable for this. For greater stability, support the formwork with boards from below. Connect reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10-12 mm into a grid with cells of 15x15 cm. To fasten the bars at the intersection, use either a knitting wire or special clamps for reinforcement. To ensure a 5 cm gap between the bottom of the formwork and the mesh, it is most convenient to use the appropriate variety of the mentioned clamps. Between the walls of the formwork and the mesh, 4-5 cm gaps should also be maintained. Pour the concrete (if possible in one continuous layer) to the height of the formwork. Level, pierce in several places with wire to eliminate excess air, level the surface again, and then cover the fill with polyethylene. Spill concrete daily with water, first removing and then laying the film again. The side walls of the formwork can be dismantled after the complete solidification of the supporting structure, i.e. one month after pouring concrete.

Screw piles in their design resemble huge self-tapping screws and look like a long pipe, the lower end of which is equipped with blades for twisting into the ground. At the top of the pile there are holes through which a device for screwing the support into the ground is connected. At its discretion, the developer can either buy a manual connector (it costs an average of 3 thousand rubles), or get by with improvised means, for example, by preparing a pipe with a diameter slightly smaller than the holes in the pile and a length of about 5 m. Twisting will require the mandatory involvement of assistants.

The foundations for sauna stoves are most often made using piles with a diameter of 108 mm. Deepening the pile for the furnace foundation - as well as the supporting structure of the bath building. With regard to the elevation of piles above the ground, the recommendations are the same.

Recommendations for preparatory measures and site marking remain the same as for the construction of a columnar support structure with a foundation slab. The sequence of the main stage of work is given in the following table.

Table. Arrangement of the furnace foundation on screw piles

Stage of work	Description
	Piles are screwed in places corresponding to the location of the corners of the future support platform. Recommendations regarding the method and depth of screwing were given earlier.
	The lower part of the head has an extension designed to enter the cavity of the screw pile.
	For the manufacture of formwork, it is recommended to use channel No. 16. At this stage, you will need a welding machine and skills to work with it. The choice of welding method is up to you - the main thing is that the connections are of the highest quality. The channel is welded to the piles with shelves inside the future support structure.
	The bearing corrugated board (H60) is inserted into the formed frame. He will take over the functions of the bottom of the formwork. The material is securely laid on the shelves of the previously welded channel. Reinforcement is performed in the standard order: - a mesh with 15 cm cells is connected from 10-12 mm reinforcing bars. The fastening of the rods is carried out with a knitting wire or special clamps for fittings; - the finished mesh is placed in the formwork.
	Fixed formwork is poured with concrete. Recommendations regarding the procedure for pouring and further maintenance of the structure are the same as in the case of any other types of support bases discussed earlier.

Prices for screw piles

screw piles

Rubble stone is a general definition that describes fragments of various rocks (most often it is limestone, granite and sandstone). If there is a possibility of extracting this material near your place of residence, you can use it to equip the furnace foundation and save a lot of money.

The pit is prepared in the same way as in the case of monolithic foundations, i.e. garbage is removed, sod is removed, marking is carried out, a foundation pit is dug to the design depth. The further procedure is presented in the following table.

Table. Arrangement of a rubble concrete foundation for a furnace

Stage of work	Description
	but the foundation pit is covered with a 10-15 cm layer of gravel. The material is carefully compacted and leveled. You can first lay a moisture-proof material in the pit, for example, glassine - this will provide additional protection for the furnace base from groundwater.
	Lay out the first row of the largest stones. Ideally, if you manage to find / buy stones that have 2 flat sides - this way the masonry will be as even and of high quality as possible. If the stones cannot be laid without gaps, the gaps between the masonry elements should be filled with gravel. After laying the first layer of stones, fill them with concrete mortar.

Continue to work in accordance with the above diagram until you lay out the foundation to the planned height. It is impossible to pour several layers of stones at the same time - this will lead to the appearance of voids inside the structure, due to which its strength characteristics will deteriorate.

The scheme of the foundation of a house or bath made of stone

After pouring, carefully level the surface according to the level. During the first week, moisten the structure daily with water, followed by covering with plastic wrap. It takes at least 2-3 weeks to set the strength of the structure.

Prices for rubble stone

rubble stone

The nuances of a brick foundation

If the bath is equipped with a relatively light brick oven, you can save on arranging its base by combining concrete pouring and brickwork in the structure. You are already familiar with the initial stages of work - everything is done as in the construction of a monolithic concrete structure. The only difference is that concrete is not poured to the entire height of the supporting structure - you need to leave space for laying 2-3 rows of bricks. Bricks are laid flat on a hardened concrete pad. For masonry, red solid brick is used.

Important! The seams in different rows of brick supports should not match. The correct masonry option is shown in the following diagram.

The nuances of the foundation for a metal furnace

Sometimes, for light metal furnaces, completely brick supporting structures are arranged. The procedure up to the stages of formwork installation, reinforcement and concrete pouring remains the same as in the case of erecting a monolithic foundation. The layout of the masonry is the same as in the variant of the combined concrete-brick base considered above. It does not make sense to make it too deep - a 50-70 cm design will be more than enough in most cases.

Choose the most suitable option for your case, the support structure and proceed to its arrangement.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself foundation for a stove in a bath

Furnaces in Russian baths have been used for more than a dozen years. Moreover, it is not worth putting the stove on the floor, but on a special foundation. To do this, the floor beams are lowered and the pouring is carried out in a specially cut out part or at the construction stage. Moreover, the foundation for the bath stove is used not only as a reliable foundation capable of preventing destruction and cracking, for example, of a brick structure, but also as a fire safety system. We will talk about how to make the foundation for the stove in the bathhouse on our own, what designs are used for the steam room below.

Concrete foundation for a wood-burning brick stove.

The foundation for an iron stove in a bath from a bar.

Since there are a lot of heat generators for baths (we have already talked about the types), the base is selected for each specific type.

So, for a metal one, a lightweight construction is needed, for a brick one, on the contrary, a massive one. Each type has its own subtleties of assembly and design features.

There is a foundation of red brick or concrete. The second option is more expensive, but it is higher in strength. Brick is cheaper and easier to dismantle if necessary, but it has less strength. Which option is better is up to the owner to decide.

Basic design, assembly rules

The classic scheme of the foundation in the baths, the main structural elements.

The classic base for the stove is assembled from rubble stone with a cement base or monolithic from concrete. In any case, the size of the base must exceed the width of the oven by 100-150 mm. The height is chosen depending on the base of the bath, so for the tape it should be the same.

It is necessary to lay waterproofing on the prepared surface, roofing material and only 2-3 layers are suitable. A dense red brick is laid on top, dry, and iron corners are mounted with a release. They are needed to create further fire protection.

It is better when pouring is carried out together with the main platform, so shrinkage will occur evenly. It is not necessary to attach the base to an existing foundation, as the furnace can deform during shrinkage.

If the size of the bath is small, then the furnace foundation will be close to the main one;

How to determine the dimensions of the base

Choosing the dimensions of the base of the furnace is based on several factors:

oven weight, and if it is a brick structure, then in a damp and dry state. So, immediately after installation, the brick heat generator has a weight of almost 8 tons, when dried, from 4-4.5 tons.

Depth occurrence water And view soil

There will be a stove with a brick or iron chimney. The pipe gives an additional load. If the chimney pipe is root, then it is recommended to fill the foundation under it with a separate structure, so you can avoid uneven shrinkage of the base under the stove.

Determine the depth of the foundation

A trench with a sand cushion and reinforcement for a brick wood-burning stove in the baths.

Before pouring the foundation for the future sauna stove, it is necessary to calculate its depth. It is necessary to know the geodesy of the area where the bath is being built: the strength and heaving of the soil, how deep the soil freezes in winter, how deep the main structure of the bath is laid, where the groundwater is located and how much it rises in spring, how much the stove will weigh, etc. d. It is even important to consider whether the construction of the bath has been completed or is just underway ..

So for sandy soil, they are laid to a depth of 80 cm, heaving - below the freezing level, but not less than 1.5 m. When the type of soil is determined, the weight of the furnace is calculated. For iron, this is simply enough to look at the figure in the technical specifications. Brick is calculated depending on the size and masonry.
Installation of the foundation for an iron stove

The lightweight design of the iron stove also needs a solid and even base. If you install the stove at a slight angle that is not even visible to the eye, it will not work correctly, and the service life will be reduced. Mounting, as we have already said, is necessary depending on the weight of the structure. For example, consider a bathhouse under an average stove, weighing 150 kg.

Main stages of work

A simple scheme of the foundation for an iron stove in the baths.

Initially, a pit is dug around the entire perimeter of the future foundation.

The bottom is covered with a pillow of sand 10–15 cm thick. The sand is carefully rammed, after spilling it with water. Then a crushed stone pillow of 40–50 cm is poured in. It should also be well tamped, so that in the end it turns out 30–35 cm.

Perform formwork from bars and boards. A solution of liquid cement is poured on top of the rubble: 4 hours of sand, 1 hour of cement, 5 hours of water. The design should stand for about 1-2 days and dry. The result is a finished sole for the foundation of the furnace.

Next, a waterproofing material is laid, a roofing material of two layers is suitable. To do this, spread the material with an overlap of 10–15 cm. A concrete pad is poured on top of the waterproofing. Concrete can be purchased ready-made or kneaded with your own hands: 4 hours of gravel (it is better to take a fine fraction), 2.5 hours of clean sand, 1 hour. waterproof cement and water by eye. Instead of gravel and sand, you can take a ready-made mixture of ASG, it takes 6 hours. The upper level is leveled with a level and a bar. The finished structure should solidify gradually, for this it is covered with polyethylene and moistened for 2-3 days, then opened and allowed to dry completely.

Installation of the base for a brick stove

If the stove is planned from brick, then the base under it must be made more massive and stronger. This is due to the large weight of the furnace and two forces will act on the foundation at once: pressure from the soil from below and upper pressure from the heat generator.

Main stages of work

A phased diagram of the layers of the foundation for a brick stove in the bath.

The first step is to dig a trench, the size of which should be below the freezing level of the soil and 10 cm wide wider than the future foundation (on all sides). So the mobility of the soil will have less effect on the foundation.

A sand cushion of 30 cm is poured, in several stages: initially 15 cm and watered, allowed to stand for the water to come down. After that, another 15 cm of sand is poured and again spilled with water.

When the water has gone, gravel or red brick is poured in, crushed beforehand. The layer is required at least 20 cm. The resulting layers are rammed and again covered with sand, watered. A stone with sand can be repeated until, when poured, the sand stops leaving.
The next step is to make a pillow of crushed stone of a fine fraction of 10 cm. Everyone again rams and mounts the formwork from timber and boards. The distance between the formwork and the edges of the trench should be 10 cm. A reinforced frame made of wire-bound reinforcement is placed in the formwork. You can use old metal pipes.

Formwork for the foundation of a brick oven is made with an indent of 10 cm.

A concrete pad is poured so that its upper part is 15 cm lower than the base of the soil. The concrete is taken ready-made, or it is made as for the foundation for an iron furnace.

The foundation is allowed to harden for 2-4 days and the formwork boards are removed. The walls of the resulting base must be smeared with bituminous mastic or tar in 2 layers, having previously melted it.

The resulting distance between the foundation and the trench is covered with sand mixed with large stone or gravel and carefully rammed. The base is covered with asbestos paper in 2 layers and red brick is laid out.

You can see the design in more detail in the video:

Foundation of piles and reinforced concrete slab

Figure - a diagram of a reinforced concrete slab on posts for a sauna stove.

The simplest, but most expensive way to lay the foundation for a bath stove is a reinforced concrete slab 150-200 mm thick. This option is suitable for any type of furnace and soil.

It is necessary to mount the pile slab on pre-filled posts or piles. Piles are used if the depth of soil freezing is less than 1.5 m, in other cases, posts are suitable. For their installation, several small holes are dug and a sand cushion of 15–20 cm is filled up, spilled and rammed. Then gravel is poured and formwork is made. A reinforced base is inserted and poured with concrete from moisture-resistant cement. After solidification, the formwork is dismantled and around the posts it is covered with coarse sand. From above, a roofing material is cut to size and spread in 2 layers. Then columns of red brick are laid out in 2 rows. The height depends on the main foundation of the bath. A reinforced concrete slab is laid on top of the posts. The foundation is ready.

Whatever design of the foundation for the bath you would not choose, you need to remember that it should not have connections with the main foundation. Only in this way the stove will not warp and it will last a long time.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a stove in a bath

For most novice stove builders who decide to independently equip the structure in question, first of all, 2 main questions arise: is it necessary to make a foundation for the stove and why?

Brick oven requires a foundation

Recommendations for choosing the design of the furnace foundation

Basic requirements for the furnace foundation

Photograph of the furnace foundation

Information on the standard depth of soil freezing in different areas is given in the following table.

Table. Depth of soil freezing in different regions

Vorkuta, Surgut, Nizhnevartovsk, Salekhard	240
Omsk, Novosibirsk	220
Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Kurgan, Kustanay	200
Yekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Perm	190
Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg	180
Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk	170
Samara, Uralsk	160
Vologda, Kostroma, Penza, Saratov	150
Voronezh, Perm, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Yaroslavl	140
Volgograd, Kursk, Smolensk	120
Pskov, Astrakhan	110
Belgorod, Kursk, Kaliningrad	100
Rostov	90
Krasnodar	80
Nalchik, Stavropol	60

Table. Features of laying the foundation

dry sandy	50	Lime	-
dry rocky	With a mass of the furnace up to 2 tons - from 25; with a furnace mass of more than 2 tons - 40	Lime	The foundation can not be laid out
Bulk (soil with large fragments)	Down to hard ground	Lime-cement or cement	Such soil is dangerous for the construction of the furnace
Clayey	75-100	Clay sand or clay cement	-
Wet	100	lime-cement	-

Brick sauna stove

If the stove weighs no more than 750 kg, instead of the foundation, you can equip a simple protective structure. The scheme of actions is as follows:

an asbestos sheet is laid on top of the clay mortar;
asbestos sheet
a sheet of roofing iron is placed on top of the asbestos sheet;
roofing iron
an oven is installed on top.
The furnace is installed on a sheet of iron

The considered design will help to improve the thermal insulation characteristics of the bath floor and will comply with the established fire safety requirements.

Important! The dimensions of the stacked sheets are selected so that they protrude at least 250 mm from each side of the oven.

Foundation

Classification of foundations according to the level of deepening

Table. Classification of furnace foundations according to the level of deepening

buried foundation

Unburied concrete foundation

Classification of foundations for sauna stoves by type of construction

Table. Existing designs of furnace foundations

Tape furnace foundation	One of the most popular types of support structures. There are 2 subtypes of such foundations: - floating belt - suitable for small size and weight ovens; - recessed design - the best option for massive furnace units. It requires a lot of labor compared to the closest analogue - a slab foundation - but surpasses it in many characteristics.
Slab oven foundation	A monolithic slab is poured under the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe sauna stove. The design requires relatively small labor and financial costs for the arrangement. Thanks to the reinforcement, the slab becomes very rigid and resistant to soil movements (the structure moves with the soil). Along with this, possible movements of the base are extremely undesirable and can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure installed on top of it, i.e. ovens. Filling the slab is advisable only in areas whose soils do not experience strong heaving, but have a low bearing capacity, the furnace is heavy, and also if groundwater occurs close to the surface of the soil or the owner simply wants to save on the construction of a supporting structure.
	If the soil on the site is clay / loamy, the construction of the usual strip or slab foundation may become impossible due to the strong heaving of the soil. Along with this, even some dry soils and sandstones are prone to seasonal movements. In order for the sauna stove to stand as reliably as possible and serve as long as possible, a columnar foundation can be used as a supporting structure, even if this increases the final cost of the work performed. Important! You cannot build a sauna stove on pillars alone. In order to realize the plan, a foundation slab is built on top of the dried and hardened support pillars.
Furnace foundation on screw piles Furnace foundation on screw piles	This design has a number of advantages: - Savings on earthworks. In the case of erecting a furnace in a bathhouse built on a strip foundation, piles can be screwed into the ground without wasting time and effort on preliminary leveling of the workplace and other preparatory work; - high resistance to compressive loads; - excellent bearing capacity; - minimum draft, which allows you to start laying the furnace without wasting time waiting for the draft of the supporting structure. The main disadvantage of the foundation on screw piles is the high cost of arrangement. In addition, without having the appropriate experience, it is extremely difficult to cope with screwing in elements without the services of third-party craftsmen. But the arrangement of such a foundation takes no more than 1 day, and piles serve up to 50-70 years or more.

Classification of foundations according to the material of manufacture

Table. Materials for the manufacture of furnace foundations

	The optimal support structure for a heavy brick kiln. Concrete supports are more durable than their brick counterparts and require less significant financial costs for the arrangement (if there are no problems with ordering / extracting sand and gravel). The disadvantages of a concrete structure are reduced to more significant labor costs for its arrangement and the inability to dismantle the foundation without destroying it.
	It is used mainly in the construction of small in size and mass kiln structures made of brick and metal. It’s definitely impossible to build a Russian oven on a brick foundation - the foundation will simply break. An additional advantage of this design is the possibility of a significant reduction in the time spent on the arrangement of the supporting structure for the sauna stove.
rubble stone	One of the most popular, easy to install and budget options for a supporting structure for a sauna stove. It is a good alternative to a buried concrete base, especially if there is a large amount of stone or broken bricks available - labor costs will be minimal.

Video - What kind of foundation is needed for the oven

Important principles for arranging a furnace foundation

In order for the foundation for the stove in the bath to serve as long and as efficiently as possible, a number of important rules must be observed when arranging it.

The foundation for a brick oven is being built along with the construction of a bath

Secondly, the construction of the furnace foundation is carried out separately from the base of the walls, so that the supporting structure has the conditions for free settlement. In order to comply with the above rule, a 30-50 mm gap is left between the stove support in the bath and the base of the wall, which is subsequently covered with sand, followed by tamping.

The furnace foundation should not be associated with the foundation of the house

The foundation and elements of the lower strapping of the bath from a bar

Scheme of a brick sauna stove. Loads are evenly distributed over the foundation area

Fifthly, a waterproofing layer must be provided between the sauna stove and its foundation. Most often, this work is done with the help of roofing material, glued to the foundation in 2 layers on molten bitumen. Without waterproofing, the brickwork will dampen and collapse. In addition, the level of humidity in the bath will increase, which will not have the best effect on the convenience of visiting and operating it.

Waterproofing the furnace from the foundation

preparatory work - from clearing the site to filling the pit / trench / pits with sand and gravel - is carried out in a similar manner for each type of foundation that requires appropriate preliminary measures (except for piles). For example, the sequence of actions will be discussed in the first instructions. You can take them as a basis for the construction of the supporting structures considered in the future;
the procedure for arranging buried and shallow foundations remains the same. Only the depth of their laying changes directly. Recommendations for determining the appropriate numerical value for this characteristic have been provided previously;
the instructions will give recommendations on arranging a pit of a certain depth, drilling holes to a certain level, etc. The indicated numerical values are given as an example only. The depth value is determined individually for each specific case;
the sequence of actions when arranging a strip and slab foundation remains identical, therefore, the instruction for structures of these types will be issued in the form of a general guide called "Device of monolithic furnace foundations". Only the parameters of the pit change. In the case of a slab foundation, they are determined by the design dimensions of the furnace being erected / installed. When pouring the strip foundation, the width of the trench is kept at an average of 70-120 cm (the values \u200b\u200bmay vary proportionally, taking into account the size of the furnace), depending on the heaving of the soil. Recommendations in this regard are given in the table.

Important addition! The types of supporting structures considered below are optimally suited for the subsequent construction of brick kilns on them. If desired, metal sauna stoves can also be installed on such foundations, but in most cases this is impractical in terms of labor and financial costs - metal units create a much lower load, as a result of which the requirements for supports for them are noticeably reduced. Recommendations for arranging the optimal support structure for a metal furnace will be given separately.

The device of monolithic furnace foundations

The scheme of the device of a monolithic concrete foundation for a bath stove is shown in the following image. The scheme clearly displays the main layers that make up the structure.

Scheme of the device of a monolithic concrete foundation for a bath stove

Before you start learning the sequence of arranging the foundation, check out a few useful recommendations for each main stage of work.

The functions of the basis for future pouring are taken over by a compacted sand cushion 15-20 cm thick and a similar layer of crushed stone.

In order for the filling to be done correctly and efficiently, formwork is installed in the prepared pit. For its assembly, it is preferable to use boards with a width of about 100 mm and a thickness of about 20 mm - a material with such characteristics will not allow concrete to seep into the ground and will reliably hold the mortar after pouring. In general, your task is to get a wooden box without a top and bottom according to the size of the trench / pit.

Fasteners

The principle of using clamps

Concrete pouring should be done in one go. Directly, the concrete solution must meet a number of requirements:

have a strength class of at least M-300;
correspond to the coefficient of water permeability at the level of W8;
have a frost resistance of at least F200.

These indicators will allow you to get the most reliable and durable foundation. If you are building a relatively light oven, you can use a material with more modest characteristics.

A step-by-step guide to self-installing a monolithic foundation is given in the following table.

Table. Foundation pouring

Choose the right base type for your application	As noted, the pouring of tape and slab bases is carried out in a similar manner. Recommendations for choosing the optimal type of support structure in accordance with the conditions of a particular case were given earlier.
Prepare the project and markup	Nothing complicated with the project. Your task is to draw on paper on a scale of the scheme of the equipped foundation. In accordance with the diagram, transfer the foundation plan to the site. Marking is carried out using rods or pegs driven in at the corners of the structure with a mandatory check of the verticality of the installation by a plumb line, as well as a rope pulled between them. Such elementary markup will help you better navigate the process of excavation.
Start earthworks	The markup is ready. You can dig a pit / trench with the planned parameters.
Install formwork	Using screws and a screwdriver, assemble boards measuring 10x2 cm into formwork according to the size and shape of the foundation being built. Install the finished formwork into the pit / trench.
Perform formwork waterproofing	As noted, the formwork installed in the trench is covered with a layer of waterproofing material, which can be used as roofing material / glassine.
Backfill	Fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of sand, soak it with water and carefully tamp. Repeat until you get a layer 15-20 cm thick. Then repeat the same thing, but use gravel instead of sand. The recommended layer thickness is the same.
Lay reinforcing mesh	Recommendations for the assembly of a reinforcing mesh were given earlier.
pour concrete	After laying the reinforcement, the trench / pit is poured with concrete mortar. The fill is leveled with a rake or shovel. It is important that the concrete is evenly distributed over the entire area of the structure.
Flatten the fill	The pour surface must be even. A long rule or a suitable piece of board will help you to ensure that this requirement is met. In conclusion, make a control check of the evenness of the “top” of the pour using a level and leave the concrete structure to gain strength for a month. Helpful advice! To prevent the foundation from cracking during the drying process, cover it with plastic wrap. Raise the film daily and spill the structure with water - thanks to this, all the cement will react, and the finished support structure will have the highest possible strength.

Columnar furnace foundation with a base plate

A diagram of the proposed support structure is shown in the following image.

Columnar furnace foundation with a base plate

The arrangement of columnar supports with a foundation slab is presented in the following table.

Table. Construction of a columnar foundation with a base plate

Site preparation	The preparation of the foundation for the sauna stove is identical to the preparatory measures carried out before the arrangement of the supporting structure for any other structure: - the site is cleared of debris; - any obstacles that can interfere with the construction of the foundation are eliminated; - the top fertile soil layer with grass is removed; - the bottom of the formed recess is leveled with a rake.
markup	As noted, the foundation will consist of 4 pillars installed in the corners of the future base plate. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly mark the corners so that the finished structure is even and corresponds to the design dimensions. To mark the first corner, stick a rod or bar in its location and align the element in accordance with the plumb line. Take the rope and tape measure. Measure the distance to the second planned corner, insert the next rod in this place, check with a plumb line and tie it with a rope to the previously installed reference rod. Repeat until you have marked all 4 corners. To check, measure the length of the diagonals. If they are not the same, change the location of the rods stuck into the ground until the mentioned values match.
Preparation of recesses for support pillars	To prepare the recesses, use a manual or electric/petrol drill - whichever is available. Select the depth of the pits in accordance with the design data (previously recommendations were given). It is most reliable when the pillars go into the ground by about 120-150 cm, and another 30 cm of the support rises above ground level. Asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 25 cm will be used as formwork for the subsequent pouring of the pillars. Drill holes with a diameter of 5 cm more than the mentioned value. Fill the bottom of each pit with a 15-20 cm layer of sand, on top - the same layer of gravel. All layers must be compacted. For tamping, you can use an improvised tool made on your own: just pin a handle to a long log. There is nothing complicated with the rammer either: lower the log into the pit and knock it on the backfilled layer several times.
Support device	Proceed to the device of columnar supports. The procedure is as follows: - the asbestos pipe is lowered into the pit and the first 20-30 cm layer of solution is poured into the cavity of the product; - the pipe rises, the solution fills the bottom of the pit (as a result, a support platform for the post is created, which makes the foundation even more reliable); - the pipe is lowered and leveled by a plumb line (all pipes together must be additionally leveled); - 20-30-cm layers of mortar are poured until the pipe is filled to the desired design height; - vertical reinforcing bars are driven into the columns with pouring for the entire length with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Usually 2-3 rods are installed on each post (if there is not enough space, then 1). To make further work more convenient, it is necessary that the upper ends of the reinforcement rise slightly above the fill and, at the same time, have a thread for subsequent screwing of the nut with a washer; - the remaining free space between the support column and the walls of the recess is covered with sand. Give concrete a few days to set strength, at the same time rest. Note! The photo shows a columnar foundation for the bath as a whole.
Foundation plate device	Make a formwork for the foundation slab. For the construction of the “form”, a sheet of chipboard or boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm is quite suitable. In this example, a chipboard sheet is used. It needs to be cut into 5 pieces. From one part you will make the bottom according to the dimensions of the future base, focusing on the dimensions of the equipped furnace. The remaining 4 sawn elements (recommended height of about 20-30 cm) will be used to build the walls. Drill holes in a large sheet and put the bottom of the formwork on the studs sticking out of the posts. After leveling the sheet, tighten the nuts with washers on the studs. The walls can be attached from the outside with bars, corners or other elements suitable for this. For greater stability, support the formwork with boards from below. Connect reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10-12 mm into a grid with cells of 15x15 cm. To fasten the bars at the intersection, use either a knitting wire or special clamps for reinforcement. To ensure a 5 cm gap between the bottom of the formwork and the mesh, it is most convenient to use the appropriate variety of the mentioned clamps. Between the walls of the formwork and the mesh, 4-5 cm gaps should also be maintained. Pour the concrete (if possible in one continuous layer) to the height of the formwork. Level, pierce in several places with wire to eliminate excess air, level the surface again, and then cover the fill with polyethylene. Spill concrete daily with water, first removing and then laying the film again. The side walls of the formwork can be dismantled after the complete solidification of the supporting structure, i.e. one month after pouring concrete.

Furnace foundation on screw piles

The foundation for the furnace on screw piles

Pile screw foundation

Scheme of a pile for a furnace foundation

Table. Arrangement of the furnace foundation on screw piles

Driving piles into the ground	Piles are screwed in places corresponding to the location of the corners of the future support platform. Recommendations regarding the method and depth of screwing were given earlier.
Installation of heads	The lower part of the head has an extension designed to enter the cavity of the screw pile.
Formwork arrangement	For the manufacture of formwork, it is recommended to use channel No. 16. At this stage, you will need a welding machine and skills to work with it. The choice of welding method is up to you - the main thing is that the connections are of the highest quality. The channel is welded to the piles with shelves inside the future support structure.
Reinforcement	The bearing corrugated board (H60) is inserted into the formed frame. He will take over the functions of the bottom of the formwork. The material is securely laid on the shelves of the previously welded channel. Reinforcement is performed in the standard order: - a mesh with 15 cm cells is connected from 10-12 mm reinforcing bars. The fastening of the rods is carried out with a knitting wire or special clamps for fittings; - the finished mesh is placed in the formwork.
Pouring concrete	Fixed formwork is poured with concrete. Recommendations regarding the procedure for pouring and further maintenance of the structure are the same as in the case of any other types of support bases discussed earlier.

Stone foundation

Rubble stone for foundation construction

Stone foundation

Table. Arrangement of a rubble concrete foundation for a furnace

Backfilling of rubble	but the foundation pit is covered with a 10-15 cm layer of gravel. The material is carefully compacted and leveled. You can first lay a moisture-proof material in the pit, for example, glassine - this will provide additional protection for the furnace base from groundwater.
Laying the first layer of rubble stone	Lay out the first row of the largest stones. Ideally, if you manage to find / buy stones that have 2 flat sides - this way the masonry will be as even and of high quality as possible. If the stones cannot be laid without gaps, the gaps between the masonry elements should be filled with gravel. After laying the first layer of stones, fill them with concrete mortar.

The scheme of the foundation of a house or bath made of stone

The nuances of a brick foundation

Important! The seams in different rows of brick supports should not match. The correct masonry option is shown in the following diagram.

Correct laying option

The nuances of the foundation for a metal furnace

Sometimes, for light metal furnaces, completely brick supporting structures are arranged. The procedure up to the stages of formwork installation, reinforcement and concrete pouring remains the same as in the case of erecting a monolithic foundation. The masonry scheme is the same as in the variant of the combined concrete-brick base considered above. It makes no sense to make the foundation for a light metal furnace too deep - in most cases, a 50-70 cm construction will be more than enough.

Choose the most suitable option for your case, the support structure and proceed to its arrangement.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself foundation for a stove in a bath

In practice, very often the foundation for the stove in the bath is laid with your own hands.

The stove should not only heat the room, but also retain heat for a long period of time.

A natural condition follows from this requirement - the furnace must have a large mass.

The larger this mass, the higher the pressure on the base.

When deciding how to make a foundation for a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands, this circumstance has to be taken into account.

Starting the construction of a bath, you should clearly imagine all the stages of preparation and construction. This object has no major or minor nodes.

All work must be carried out with the same high quality.

General rules

Any building, regardless of its purpose, is built according to a previously developed project. This document is needed, although it often exists only in the head of the developer.

Only a professional who has been engaged in individual construction for many years can afford such freedom of action.

On individual estates and summer cottages, baths are often built, as they say, by eye. Improvisation of this kind is done by hand.

However, the basic rules still have to be followed. First of all, this concerns the choice of a place for the location of the bath, the materials from which it will be built and the size of the furnace.

The easiest way is to decide on the place where the bath will stand. The materials from which this object is being built can be used in a variety of ways.

And as part of the choice of material, it is necessary to decide which furnace is preferable to install, metal or brick. Sketching a sketch of the building on a scale, you should also determine the dimensions of this stove.

Based on the decision made, the required volume of materials for pouring the foundation will be calculated.

For a small iron furnace, there is no need to equip a massive foundation. It is enough to fill the designated area with concrete and achieve a stable position of the stove.

What are the foundations?

The foundation for the stove-heater in the bath is equipped depending on what the dimensions of this stove will be. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the quality of the soil on which the structure is being built.

According to the current classification, soils are divided into the following types:

sedimentary and alluvial;
gravel-sand;
bulk;
permafrost.

Depending on the type of soil, a certain foundation design is chosen for the bath in general and for the furnace specifically. The bath is built in such a way that it can be used for many years.

Therefore, it is necessary to approach the study of the soil and the arrangement of the foundation with all seriousness.

After analyzing the soil, you can choose the type of foundation and start laying it.

Currently, the following types of foundations are being built under the stove in the bath:

buried;
shallow;
slab.

When a bath is built on shaky ground and a large brick oven is provided for the steam room, then an appropriate foundation is required for it.

Doing the work with your own hands, it will be easier to lay the foundation for the stove at the same time as the main foundation for the bath. In this case, it is necessary to go deep to a level below the freezing mark.

Real practice shows that in sandy and gravel soils, one meter depth can be limited.

A shallow foundation is laid on rocky soils. In this case, there is no particular need to fill in a massive base. Seasonal ground movements do not occur here.

If this happens, it is very rare. A slab foundation can be poured under a medium-sized sauna stove.

When arranging the foundation for the bath, at the place where the stove will be located, a concrete platform is poured. For greater reliability, it is desirable to strengthen it with metal or composite reinforcement.

A layer of concrete can be made 15-20 cm thick. But the sand and gravel cushion must be poured and compacted up to 40 cm.

Metal oven foundation

If you plan to install an iron stove in the bath, then you can do without extra labor. The weight of such a stove ranges from 150 to 250 kg.

When a bath is built on stable ground, the depth of the base for such a stove can be 50 cm. The first thing to do is dig a hole according to the size of the stove.

The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble by about 30 cm. A sand-cement screed 5-7 cm thick is poured over the rubble. A roofing material is laid on this screed, after it “gets up”.

This will be waterproofing the foundation. And already concrete is poured on the roofing material. While the concrete has not hardened, you need to check the horizontalness of the resulting surface.

When pouring concrete, it must be remembered that the base for installing and fixing the stove is below the floor level. Approximately 30-40 cm.

If it becomes necessary to bring it to the same horizon with the floor, then this is done using refractory bricks. The brick is laid in several rows over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation.

The video shows how to make and install a metal stove for a bath with your own hands.

The production of a sauna stove according to specific dimensions and configurations can be ordered at a metal products manufacturing plant.

Foundation for a brick oven

The arrangement of the foundation for a brick oven is a responsible and time-consuming task, but quite doable with your own hands. Drawings of the future stove should be available.

It is known that one cubic meter of brickwork has a mass of more than 1300 kg. This is along with cement mortar. According to the drawings, you need to calculate the weight of the stove.

And already on the basis of the result obtained, the power of the foundation is calculated. If the weight of the furnace does not exceed 750 kg, then the foundation for it can not be summed up.

It is enough to carry out protective measures that are aimed at preventing accidental ignition. An asbestos sheet is laid on the floor, and a sheet of roofing iron is laid on top of it.

Everything, on this basis you can build a stove.

The area of the pit for the foundation should be larger than the dimensions of the furnace in the plan. Approximately 20-30 cm. The depth of the pit is from 70 cm to one meter.

The sequence of work on the preparation and pouring of concrete is the same as when laying the foundation for an iron furnace.

The only difference is that a thicker cushion of sand and gravel is created. After the pad is compacted and leveled, a concrete base is poured on top of it.

It must be reinforced for strength. The video shows the process of pouring the foundation for a bathhouse and a sauna stove. It is important to emphasize that the depth of the foundations should be the same.

Some features of the process

When large-scale construction is carried out on the estate, a lot of various garbage is sure to remain.

A two-story cottage, a brick fence, landscaping on the site and other structures require quality materials. In dealing with them, an economic approach is needed.

Fragments of brick and concrete can be used in the arrangement of the foundation for the stove in the bath.

When a large construction project is started, with the involvement of third-party specialists, a plan for the production of work is necessarily drawn up.

In this plan, there is a section in which the terms and procedure for the construction of a bath are scheduled.

Ground work on laying the foundation for a bathhouse and a sauna stove is carried out at a time when earthmoving equipment is working on the site. Digging pits with your own hands is not rational.

When operating an excavator, it is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the foundation pit correspond to the project. As the material for the base of the furnace is formed, the pit is filled.

A pillow of fragments of brick and concrete must be covered with sand and compacted. When the turn of concrete work approaches, all preparatory stages should be completed.

Concrete is poured into the prepared pit. The foundation is ready. You can install an oven on it.

Since ancient times, the stove has been an indispensable attribute in every home or bath. It was used for cooking, was a source of heat in the cold season. And the purpose of the stove, located in the bath, is not worth talking about.

Previously, stoves were built right on the floor and no one even thought about the foundation for it. Nowadays, a furnace built in this way is unimaginable.

The emergence of various materials, the improvement of construction technology made the foundation an indispensable component when installing the furnace. The quality, reliability, durability of the structure, and most importantly, safety depend on its presence.

Why do you need to make a foundation for the furnace

Any process and component in the construction industry plays a very important role. Failure to comply with the technology in the very near future will certainly lead to the destruction of the structure.

The lack of a foundation will soon affect reliability and safety. Therefore, if you plan to use the stove for a long time, then building a solid foundation is an integral part of the construction.

An important condition is the independence of the base for the stove-heater from the main foundation. In this case, the weight of the entire building will not affect the resistance of this component. Otherwise, the weight of the stove and the weight of the entire structure will exert enormous pressure on it, which can cause deformation and destruction.

For example, the weight of an oven built of bricks will average 500 - 700 kg, which is an impressive indicator. And if you add the weight of the entire building to it, then you can only imagine what destruction the base will undergo in a couple of months.

If this component does not exist at all, then it may not work at all to use the bath for the purpose.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the characteristics of the soil: strength, freezing depth, heaving, etc. The depth of construction of the structure will depend on this.

In sandy or dry soil, it should sink about 80 cm. In heaving soil, it is necessary to concrete at a depth greater than the freezing depth, which can reach 120 - 150 cm. If you plan to build a brick heater, then this rule should in no case be neglected.

Next, you need to dig a pit. Its dimensions should be larger on each side than the foundation itself. This is necessary so that after pouring concrete and dismantling the formwork, the voids between the concrete and the walls of the pit are covered with sand or gravel.

In the future, this filling will soften the impact of moving soil layers on the walls of the structure.

Design and milestones

The outer contour of the base of the bath is connected using supporting structures for partitions into a single system.

This approach ensures uniform settlement of both the bath and the heating boiler. The laying of the foundation for heating equipment is carried out in the following order:

the site is leveled and marked out along with the rest of the supporting structures of the bath;
a foundation pit is dug for the foundation;
its bottom is leveled with backfilling of a sand-gravel cushion of the required thickness;
formwork is assembled and installed;
work on waterproofing and reinforcing the foundation of the furnace is being carried out.

The calculation of the section of the supporting structure or the thickness of the base plate is made on the basis of the following data:

the weight of the furnace, which in turn depends on the main building material and the size of the equipment;
masses of additional structures of chimneys, tanks for heating water, etc.;
composition of soils, the depth of their freezing and occurrence of soil waters.

Building for a metal furnace

If you decide to install a metal stove from some well-known manufacturer made of light sheet steel in the bath, then you still have to build the foundation, even if the weight of the stove does not exceed 150 kg.

In this case, the construction is carried out as follows:

A hole is dug 50 cm deep. Crushed stone is evenly poured into its bottom and compacted. The thickness of the crushed stone layer should be 25 - 30 cm.
Next, a liquid consistency solution is prepared. To do this, you need to take cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 4, pour water and mix. Crushed stone is poured with a solution and left for a day. Approximately so much time it will take for it to solidify.
On an already dry surface, several layers of roofing material are laid, which will perform the function of waterproofing.
Next comes the preparation of the mortar and pouring the top layer of concrete. To do this, take cement, sand and fine gravel in proportions of 1: 2.5: 4. All this is mixed with water and poured into the pit. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 25 cm.
Using a wooden beam, the surface is leveled so that it is completely horizontal. For control, you can use the building level.
After 5 - 6 days, you can begin to lay out the brick base. It should be about 10 - 15 cm above the level of the clean floor. Burnt red brick is used for masonry. The base can also be made from concrete, but then you will have to build formwork from boards.
On the finished base, you can install a metal stove.

Brick oven building

For a brick stove, which is planned to be installed in a bathhouse, the foundation is being built using a more serious technology, because the weight of such a structure is much greater than the previous one, and therefore the foundation for it needs to be more powerful and stable.

In this case, the depth of soil freezing is also taken into account, which was not done in the previous version. And if you miss this moment and build a foundation at a shallower depth than necessary, then after a short period of time it will begin to deform, crack, and deviate from the vertical axis.

The base for a brick stove for a bath is constructed in the following order:

The first step is to determine the depth of soil freezing. It depends on how deep the pit will be, which is dug below its level. Its dimensions should be 10 - 15 cm larger on each side than the dimensions of the future base. For example, if you plan to pour a foundation whose dimensions are 100 by 60 cm, then the pit will be 120-130 cm by 80-90 cm. This stock will allow you to easily install the formwork and strengthen the base with gravel or sand, which will serve as additional protection against soil movements.
When the pit is ready, sand is poured into it, which will act as a pillow for the foundation. The sand cushion, for compaction, is watered several times with water, if necessary, new portions of sand are added. At the exit, the layer should have a thickness of 15 - 20 cm.
After the water leaves, a layer of stones or broken bricks is laid out. It must be compacted and covered with sand. In order for the sand to fill the voids between stones or pieces of brick as much as possible, it is poured with water in several passes. When the sand stops leaving, you can stop watering and proceed to the next step. The approximate thickness of the layer of stones should be 25 - 30 cm.
Next, a layer of crushed stone is poured into the pit and compacted.
Now you can build the formwork. For this, a board 4 cm thick is used. The space inside the formwork, and the dimensions of the future foundation must match. To set the formwork evenly, the building level is used. The design is securely fixed, and a metal frame is installed inside it. The distance between the boards and the frame should be approximately 5 cm.
Next comes the concrete filling of the space inside the formwork. In the course of adding the solution, you need to use a wooden beam for tamping. The space is filled completely so that the layer is at the level of the upper edges of the formwork. Screed and remove excess solution. The structure is left for several days to solidify. The surface of the poured concrete must be at the zero level of the bath (clean floor level). This must be taken into account when constructing the formwork.
After the concrete has dried, the formwork can be removed. It is also necessary to melt the tar and treat all concrete surfaces with it. This must be done several times. The space between the walls of the pit and concrete must be covered with sand or gravel. Further, the structure is covered with a film, and work is suspended.
A week later, you can start laying the sauna stove.

Quite often, when building a base for a furnace, reinforced concrete slabs 15–20 cm thick are used. The slab can be mounted on pile or columnar supports.

If you plan to build a heavy brick oven, then you need to build a separate foundation. The walls of these two structures should not be closer than 5 cm apart.

The dimensions of the foundation must exceed the dimensions of the furnace itself by 5 cm around the entire perimeter.

Particular attention should be paid to determining the depth of soil freezing. To do this, it is recommended to use the services of specialists, since it is quite difficult to do it on your own.

It is necessary to determine the type of furnace to be installed at the design stage. The type of base under it will depend on which stove you plan to install in the bath.

In any case, no matter which stove you choose, if the construction of the foundation for it is done correctly in compliance with all the rules, the bath will only be a pleasure.

The traditional Russian banya and the stove in it are often considered as a whole. But in order for the furnace to operate successfully for a long time, it is necessary to perform its correct installation on a foundation specially prepared for this. It is necessary for any type of furnace used - both metal and brick. Moreover, properly made, it not only plays the role of a supporting structure, but also provides an additional level of fire safety.

Types of foundation for the furnace and requirements for it

Before installing the stove in the bath, it is necessary to check the presence and compliance with the requirements of the foundation for it. In most cases, it is recommended to carry out work on the foundation for the furnace at the same time as other similar work. This leads to approximately the same shrinkage of all structures. But if this did not happen, it is quite possible to perform them already in the finished bath.

You should pay attention to an important point - in no case should the oven be installed in a bath on a wooden floor. A bath stove without a foundation is a potentially weak point in the design, and besides, it does not meet fire safety requirements. Before installing the stove in a wooden bath, it is necessary to carry out work on the foundation.

When installing a foundation for a stove in a bath, the following factors must be considered:

dimensions in the horizontal plane should be at least 5-10 cm on each side greater than the dimensions of the furnace, which will be subsequently mounted;
the height of the structure should generally be at the same level as the rest of the foundation of the bath;
the depth is determined by analogy with the same indicator of the rest of the foundation, but taking into account the expected load from the furnace.

The most common foundation options for a sauna stove are concrete or rubble. We should not forget the obligatory rule that 2-3 layers of waterproofing must be performed on top of the foundation, which is necessary for the normal and long-term operation of the structure.

As a conclusion, we can say that before installing the furnace correctly, as well as installing the pipe coming from it, it is necessary to competently and in accordance with the requirements of the technology make the foundation.

Do-it-yourself installation work

All bath stoves can be divided into two large groups:

metal. They have low weight and small overall dimensions. These circumstances undoubtedly affect the design of the foundation used to place them;
brick. Significantly more massive structures, which are superior in overall dimensions to the previous version. They require a more reliable and voluminous design of the applied foundation.

Depending on which stove is planned for use in the bath, there are two main types of design used.

One of the options for building a foundation for a furnace is shown in the following video:

Foundation for a metal furnace

Even for the smallest and lightest metal furnaces, a separate foundation is recommended. This is due to the fact that even a small misalignment and loss of the correct position of the furnace lead to a significant reduction in its service life.

The design for a metal sauna stove is quite simple and is carried out in several successive stages:

a pit is dug, the depth of which is usually 0.5 - 0.6 meters. Dimensions in the horizontal plane are determined by the dimensions of the furnace and the conditions described above;
carefully compacted crushed stone is used as the bottom layer. In compacted form, its layer should be approximately equal to 0.3 meters;
a layer of laid and compacted gravel is spilled with cement mortar (cement / sand - 1/4) with the addition of water until the density of sour cream;
after the resulting layer has dried (1-2 days), waterproofing is laid from two layers of ordinary roofing material or modern materials similar in properties;
formwork is going;
concrete is poured, prepared at the rate of cement / sand / gravel or expanded clay - 1 / 2.5 / 4. Instead, it is allowed to use bricks laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar.

After 3-4 days after the completion of concrete acceptance, the formwork is removed, the structure will fully gain strength in standard four weeks. In the process of curing concrete, regular wetting with water is recommended.

The concrete furnace foundation made in this way has high strength and is much cheaper compared to other options. The disadvantages include the serious laboriousness of the necessary work, as well as the low maintainability of the resulting structure.

To give a more attractive appearance, a monolithic slab in the upper part is often lined with bricks or even lined with ceramic tiles that are thick enough to allow their use in furnaces.

Foundation for a brick oven

The standard dimensions of a Russian brick oven are approximately 1.50 * 1.25 meters. Since this is a fairly massive structure, various options for the foundation device can be used.

Monolithic device

This is the most common design. It is in many ways similar to that used for a metal furnace, but more reliable and more massive. It is carried out in several stages:

a pit is dug to a depth of 0.7 meters. The remaining dimensions are determined based on the dimensions of the furnace;
a sand cushion 0.15 meters thick is made, which is then carefully spilled with water. After the water is absorbed, the sand is added and spilled again;
a layer 0.2 meters thick is made of broken bricks and stones. It is compacted, covered with sand and watered again. This procedure must be repeated several times;
a layer of 0.1 meters thick is made of crushed stone, which is carefully compacted;
formwork is installed. The material for its manufacture is used ordinary - wood. It must be placed at a distance of 10 cm from the walls of the pit on each side;
reinforcing frame is installed;
concrete is poured;
after gaining some strength, the formwork is dismantled, side-coated waterproofing of the foundation walls with bituminous mastic is performed, and the resulting sinuses are covered with gravel or sand of large fractions.

The device of a monolithic version on piles

To increase the reliability and bearing capacity of foundation structures, which is important for heaving soils and with a very massive brick kiln, a monolithic slab on piles is used.

It combines the features of a pile foundation and a monolithic slab. The technology of its device is quite simple and can be done by hand.

Various options can be used as piles:

asbestos-cement or metal pipes, reinforced and filled with concrete from the inside;
construction made of roofing felt or roofing, used as formwork and at the same time waterproofing, also filled with concrete from the inside;
metal screw piles, conveniently and quickly screwed into the ground.

When installing piles for this design, it should be borne in mind that the depth of their immersion should be 0.3-0.5 meters below the soil freezing mark.

The installation of a monolithic slab over the installed piles is also not particularly difficult. It is carried out after about 10 days, which are necessary for the strength gain of concrete poured into piles. On top of the monolithic slab, waterproofing is mandatory.

Concrete rubble device

A concrete-rubble foundation for a brick sauna stove is also quite common. This is an inexpensive design, the main condition for which is the presence of buta.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

a foundation pit is dug (the dimensions are traditionally slightly larger than required for the foundation);
a layer of 0.15 meters thick is made of crushed stone. In the case of heaving soils, a layer of sand is first made and spilled twice with water;
formwork is installed in accordance with the required dimensions of the foundation. From the inside, it is treated with bituminous mastic or a layer of roofing material is made, necessary for waterproofing the structure;
the space is filled with large rubble stones, between which small gravel is laid;
the completed layer of stone and crushed stone is poured with cement mortar (1 part of M400 cement to 3 parts of sand);
the procedure for laying rubble stone and crushed stone is repeated, followed by pouring them with a solution. The process is repeated up to a mark of minus 6 cm from the floor level;
the resulting structure is covered with roofing felt or ordinary PVC film and left to dry out to gain strength.

Conclusion

Performing work on the installation of a foundation for a sauna stove in accordance with the above recommendations will allow you to obtain a reliable and durable design that will ensure long-term trouble-free and comfortable operation of the bath.

How to build a foundation for a bath
How to make a foundation for a bath: step by step instructions
Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath
What is the best foundation for a log cabin bath

The outer contour of the base of the bath is connected using supporting structures for partitions into a single system.

This approach ensures uniform settlement of both the bath and the heating boiler. The laying of the foundation for heating equipment is carried out in the following order:

the site is leveled and marked out along with the rest of the supporting structures of the bath;
a foundation pit is dug for the foundation;
its bottom is leveled with backfilling of a sand-gravel cushion of the required thickness;
going and;
work on waterproofing and reinforcing the foundation of the furnace is being carried out.

The calculation of the section of the supporting structure or the thickness of the base plate is made on the basis of the following data:

the weight of the furnace, which in turn depends on the main building material and the size of the equipment;
masses of additional structures of chimneys, tanks for heating water, etc.;
composition of soils, the depth of their freezing and occurrence of soil waters.

What is the difference between brick or metal

A metal stove is much stronger than a brick one. Installation with a slight skew, deformation of the base will not cause much damage to the metal furnace, while for a brick one, such movements of the foundation mean a complete failure. Hence the need for a foundation of increased strength for a brick oven. Metal stoves are usually quite light, which eliminates the need for a separately laid foundation. The foundation for an iron stove in a bath is not required. For them, it is necessary to provide proper fire protection measures - an asbestos sheet, a sheet of roofing iron for a metal furnace, protruding beyond the furnace at least 25 cm, and in front of the firebox - at least 40 cm.

A brick oven, having a much larger mass, does not tolerate deformations of the base and needs a full-fledged foundation, designed to withstand the high pressure of the furnace and compensate for shrinkage processes. There should be no connection with the common foundation, otherwise the difference in the pressure created on the foundation can lead to destruction.

The depth of the foundation for the furnace

When assessing the depth of the foundation of the furnace, it is necessary to take into account the location relative to the walls of the bath or house, as well as ensure the stability and reliability of the furnace base.
If the foundation under the walls of the house or bath has a small depth, then the foundation for the furnace is located at the same depth. If the furnace is located near the foundation with a large laying depth, the furnace base is lifted and placed on a sand cushion. Please note that the minimum depth of the base for the oven is 50 cm in both cases.

The foundation for the oven. Example

A more durable and reliable foundation is made for brick ovens, since the mass of this structure exceeds the weight of the metal one.

Dig a hole depending on the location of the foundation of the furnace. The width and length of the pit should be 20 cm larger than the dimensions of the furnace foundation.
To save concrete, the finished pit is leveled, half-filled with sand, carefully compacted and checked for horizontalness.

Waterproofing is placed on top of the sand and formwork is made.
The top of the pit is poured further with concrete to the ground level, which, for greater reliability, can be reinforced with metal rods. Mortar recipe - one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel. Further, the surface of the foundation is checked for horizontalness with a building level.
After the concrete has hardened, for about 5-6 days, the formwork is dismantled, waterproofing is laid and the foundation for the furnace continues to be erected to the level of the finished floor. Part of the base above ground level can be laid out of brick or formwork and poured with concrete mortar to the floor level.
The gap between the edge of the pit and the foundation is filled with sand and carefully compacted.

The foundation for the furnace on a reinforced concrete slab

This technology is used on soils where the lower layers of the soil are weak, and the upper ones are more reliable.

Remove the top vegetation layer of the earth, about 20 cm and level. Sand, crushed stone or gravel are poured, rammed and a reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 12 to 15 cm is placed on the resulting base or made on site.

Brick ovens can be installed on a stove with an area of \u200b\u200bnot more than 2.5-3 m 2, and light metal ones with an area of \u200b\u200babout 1.5 m 2. Of course, the larger the area of \u200b\u200bsuch a base, the stronger and more reliable the foundation will be.

You can make the plate yourself. To do this, after the stage of laying the gravel, it is necessary to install the formwork corresponding to the dimensions of the slab. After that, it is necessary to pour concrete to a height of 5-7 cm, correctly lay the reinforcement or reinforcing mesh and pour it to the desired height. Until the solution has seized, it must be leveled.

After the mortar has hardened, it is necessary to put waterproofing and continue building the foundation for the furnace to the floor level. This can be done with bricks, buta or with concrete using formwork.

After a week, coat the upper part of the resulting base with hot tar and glue it with roofing material.

When installing the stove, it is necessary that its center of gravity coincides with the middle of the stove. In the manufacture of such a base, about 1-2 m 3 of concrete is saved.

The foundation for the furnace on a columnar base

Under heavy stone stoves, a columnar foundation of four pillars located at the corners of a reinforced concrete slab or a welded frame made of metal profiles is suitable.

For the construction of pillars, it is necessary to make holes to the depth of freezing of the soil with an ordinary hand drill.

Then we take asbestos pipes, install them in pits and fill them with concrete. The width of the asbestos pipe is taken based on the bearing capacity of the soil and the weight of the furnace. How to do this for a house is written in the article Calculation of the foundation. According to the same scheme, a calculation is made for the furnace.

After that, we install the finished slab or make formwork and fill the slab in place. The height of the pillars depends on the height at which the slab will be installed.

It is also possible to install a frame welded from steel profiles on the pillars, which will serve as the foundation for the furnace.

If you choose the correct option foundation for the oven and do all the work correctly, the structure will last for many years.

Base for metal bath heater

With a sauna stove weighing up to 750 kg, it is possible to do without the construction of an individual supporting structure - to arrange only a protective floor covering. However, if the floor is wooden, its strength characteristics should be sufficient. It is advisable to revise the condition of the lags under the flooring and, if necessary, perform a spot repair of the site.

A layer of clay mortar is applied to a solid wooden flooring, on top of which an asbestos sheet of such a format is laid so that its edges protrude 25-30 cm beyond the contour of the stove. Excess clay is removed by rolling a paint roller over asbestos, after which the solution is given a week to cure and dry. A sheet of galvanized roofing iron of an even profile with a thickness of 0.8-1.0 mm of the corresponding format is laid on top of the asbestos.

Protective materials for the sauna stove - asbestos and galvanized sheet steel

To avoid injuries in the future, the corners of the iron sheet are given an oval shape and pressed against the flooring with self-tapping screws. The protective platform for the heater is ready.

Options for arranging a protective platform for a bath heater

For a metal stove, sometimes they still arrange an individual bearing base, and there is a reason for this - wooden flooring and logs in a bathhouse age faster and lose strength.

The sequence and technology of building a foundation for an iron stove in a domestic bath:

arrangement of a pit with a depth of 0.5 m and dimensions in plan, 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the heater;
bottom layout with crushed stone backfill with a layer of at least 30 cm and compaction;
device over crushed stone of concrete preparation from a liquid cement-sand mortar 5 cm thick;
after the solution dries - waterproofing from 2-3 layers of roofing material with bituminous mastic;
formwork device;
production and laying of a reinforcing mesh-mesh with a cell of 8-12 cm from steel or plastic reinforcement of a variable profile with diameters of 8-10 mm (the finished frame should be located in the lower part of the poured concrete volume - at a distance of 5 cm from the waterproofed base);
laying a layer of 20 cm of concrete, prepared in a ratio of 2: 5: 8 (cement, sand, fine gravel);
when the concrete reaches 70% strength (in a week) - the execution of brickwork on top of it to the floor level.

The device of an individual carrier platform for a metal furnace

Important! The entire volume of the foundation for a small metal stove in the bath can be made of brick laid on the mortar. .

What to consider when planning the foundation for a sauna stove

Consider the case when the weight of the furnace exceeds 700 kg, the material is brick. What parameters should be followed for selection? In general, the choice is made immediately for the entire building. The relief of the site is taken into account - whether planning is needed, how difficult or costly it will be.

Dependence on the type of soil

For difficult terrain, slopes or folds best to use screw piles, which make it possible to exclude expensive and not always possible earthworks. In addition, they can be screwed by hand without involving complex construction equipment.
For dense rocky soils can be shallow tape foundation. In this case, its purpose is to level the site and bring out the plane, the bearing capacity of the soil does not require complex measures.
Soils with high water tables require pile foundation type. Digging a pit under such conditions is tantamount to forming a small lake on the site, therefore screw or driven piles are used, immersed in the ground to the level of dense layers.
At large depths of soil freezing is being done strip foundation buried below the freezing point. The depth of the pit in such cases can be more than 2 meters, which is too much for the base of the furnace. The issue is solved by the formation of a sand cushion, tightly packed and leveled. The thickness of the pillow is such as to bring the lower mark of the furnace base to the desired height, where the next layer is laid - a butovka or reinforced concrete slab.
Areas with high seasonal elevation changes - soil heaving- require or pile base, based on dense layers of soil and raising the entire building above ground level, or arrangement of a solid monolithic slab, a massive solid base made of reinforced concrete. Such a plate moves along with the ground surface, preventing deformation of the building fixed on it. The foundation of a massive slab is reliable and durable, but requires a significant investment of money and labor, since it is usually built for the entire bath. A separate plate for the furnace in conditions of complex and wet soils will not work, its area is insufficient.

The foundation in the bath under the stove examples of phased work

It is impossible to imagine a Russian banya without a stove. Today, like hundreds of years ago, the furnace must be placed on a pre-prepared foundation, for which the floors are dismantled, a foundation pit is dug and poured with concrete. It is best to start this process even at the construction stage, but sometimes the oven is chosen at the last moment, for which it is necessary to “dissolve” the floor. The task of the foundation, firstly, is to distribute the load from the main structure. Secondly, to ensure the proper level of fire safety. About how to make the foundation in the bath under the stove, which one to choose and what is needed for this - in our article.

When building a foundation for furnaces, it is important to take into account the weight of the structure. If its mass does not exceed 750 kg and its construction is supposed to be carried out at the first level, then a reinforced concrete base will suffice. If the mass of the furnace goes beyond the specified indicator, this is the basis for the construction of a separate base.
For a furnace with a relatively small weight, it is recommended to choose a columnar foundation. In such a foundation, sufficiently deepened pillars perform the task of piles, and a reinforced concrete slab placed on the ground acts as a support. This version of the construction of the foundation structure has gained a reputation as the most reliable structure.
The construction of the base for a brick oven requires special attention. In this case, it is important to prevent even minimal deformation changes in the foundation structure. Otherwise, there is a high probability of cracks in the brickwork, which in the future will lead to fragmentary or complete destruction of the furnace structure.
The furnace foundation should take the load only from it. It is not necessary to connect the furnace foundation with the base of the house. A gap of 5 cm should be made between the two bases. This gap should be covered with sand in two layers. Or lay with waterproofing material.
In order to correctly determine the size of the future base for the furnace, one must proceed from the structure of the soil and the mass of the furnace structure. When determining the depth of the foundation, one should take into account the water level of the soil, strength and heaving, the depth of freezing and the level of the foundation of the house.

Before starting construction, the density of the soil must also be taken into account. This point is especially relevant in the construction of heavy furnace structures. The most suitable are clay and sandy soils, as they are of sufficient density and do not contain excessive moisture. If the soil has a loose heterogeneous structure, it must be compacted before starting work.

The foundation for the oven photo:

Installation of a pile foundation with a slab

One of the varieties of the foundation for the furnace is a pile structure, which is distinguished by good reliability and ease of installation.

Foundation on piles

We make markings on the ground according to the dimensions of the future furnace and measure 10 cm in each direction - this will be the size of the foundation.

We remove 20 cm of the plant layer of the earth with a bayonet shovel.

Removed the vegetation layer of the earth

We put pegs and pull the rope.

In each part of the peg, we drill holes with a diameter of 20 cm to a depth of 50 cm.

Pile foundation for the oven

We make formwork from wooden boards, fastening them together with nails, and set them according to the size of these pits. The formwork is a wooden box without a bottom.
We make waterproofing using polyethylene, which we attach along the perimeter with a stapler to the formwork walls.
We pour sand at the bottom, tamp it well and fill it with gravel for 15 cm. Fill with water.

We knit reinforcing bars with a wire of 0.8 mm and twist well.

Reinforcing mesh knitting

We install a reinforced frame.

Foundation reinforcement

We roll up tight sleeves from roofing material and insert such piles into the pits. Asbestos pipes can be used as piles.

Sleeves from roofing material

We fill the piles ready and inserted into the pit with a concrete mixture.
We are taking a break for 2 weeks.
Now you can fill the entire foundation with concrete mix.
We cover with polyethylene and let the foundation harden for at least 2-3 weeks.

How to make a foundation for a stove

When making a foundation for a Russian brick oven, it is necessary to adhere to the requirements for the foundations of any other structures. Of course, this type of foundation has its own characteristics that you need to know about.

Preparation for work

If you decide to make a foundation for a stove for a wooden house with your own hands, then, first of all, you need to decide what dimensions the structure will have.

When designing, keep in mind that on each side it must be 50 millimeters more than the dimensions of the stove. For example, if a stove is planned size 1/0.7 meters, then the foundation should be 1.1/0.7 meters.

When you decide on the size of the structure, you can choose the location of the furnace. Also consider where the chimney will be located, an exception is made only for barbecue ovens. For all other stove options, this is a very important point, because an ill-conceived chimney can rest against the supporting structure on the roof. To correct such a shortcoming, you need to spend a lot of time and effort, so it is better to avoid trouble and make accurate calculations.

If the foundation is made for a Russian stove, then it is not necessary that it come into contact with the base of the house. Such structures have different pressures, and upon contact, they can be deformed, which will lead to trouble with both grounds.

We make a pit

The pit is an important component of the foundation, without it can't be avoided. It happens that builders remove only the top layer of the earth, thereby saving material and time, but this is not the way to do it. recommended. The pit should be done below the level of freezing of the earth. These characteristics have individual parameters for each region.

You can make a shallow foundation, but then you definitely need to use piles. If the soil is sandy and dry, then it will be enough to make a pit half a meter. And for heaving soil, it is necessary to dig a pit with a depth of at least a meter. When the foundation is marked, they begin to dig the pit, while the width and length must be done with a margin for formwork.

Formwork itself made with boards with 2 centimeter thickness, they are knocked down into shields and then fixed with spacers in the pit. A ten centimeter layer of rubble is poured into the bottom of the pit, flattened and rammed.

We do waterproofing and filling

Making a solution:

1 part cement;
3 parts of pure sand;
5 parts crushed stone without impurities.

First you need to mix all the components in a convenient container. When you get a homogeneous mass, you can gradually start adding water. The mixture should be constantly stirred, it is necessary to add water until it turns out thick creamy consistency only then the solution will be ready. The finished solution can be safely poured into the formwork. It is recommended to fill in one day, otherwise the foundation will turn out from several layers, which may crack during operation.

Foundation on piles

For shallow foundations, use piles:

To begin with, remove the vegetable 25 cm layer.
Then with a drill you need to make holes meter deep 20 centimeters in diameter.
At the bottom of the holes made, gravel is filled and compacted.
In the wells made, it is necessary to insert roofing material twisted into a sleeve.
Further holes filled with concrete.

You can do it a little differently if you have asbestos or polyethylene pipes desired diameter and length. Then just pipes are inserted into the holes, and after 10 days the foundation is being poured.

Today, screw piles have become popular instead of concrete, but for their installation it is necessary to use the services of specialists. This can only be done with skill and good practice. Watch the video how they work screw pile specialists.

If you decide to make an oven, you must definitely consider foundation design. Even if you really want to save on construction, it’s better not to do this, otherwise, everything building may collapse.. Only by making a high-quality foundation with your own hands, you will be able to use it for many years, and step-by-step instructions will help you with this. instructions and video tutorials.

Kinds

In modern construction, a wide variety of materials are used for Russian stove and foundation. It can be made not only at home, but also in a bathhouse, what could be better than a Russian stove in a Russian bathhouse? Most often do these types of foundations:

monolithic;
pile;
tape;
screw;
under a stone oven;
under the iron stove.

For low-rise and wooden houses often do strip foundation for the furnace.

If the furnace is iron, then the last option is most suitable, in which there is no foundation, as such. Thanks to the device of the iron stove, a high-quality and strong floor covering is quite enough for its base.

often do slabfoundation especially for brick ovens. The movement of the soil has no effect on the reinforced monolithic slab, but if the structure is very large, then it will not cope with it. Groundwater also affects destructive to her. This plate is not suitable for bath installations. The cost of such a foundation is low, but its reliability is not the best. There are many videos on the internet that will help you to the right kind of foundation.

Foundation for iron stove

Despite the fact that iron sauna stoves are usually light in weight, even for the lightest thin-walled model it is desirable to have a separate foundation. The thing is that even a slight misalignment, sometimes invisible to the eye, leads to accelerated wear. And only the presence of a solid base guarantees its absence, and hence the long-term operation of the furnace.

Making a foundation for an iron stove is easy. Necessary:

Dig a suitable pit. The size of the foundation should be 10-15 cm larger than the dimensions of the furnace (more is possible, less is not). If the metal furnace will be deposited with a brick screen, then the indentation is considered from the outer edge of the screen. The depth of the foundation and the pit depends on the type of soil. On non-fluffy soils, 50-60 cm is enough.

Crushed stone is poured to the bottom, which is carefully rammed. The size of this layer in compacted form should be at least 30 cm.

Foundation for iron stove

Compacted crushed stone is shed with liquid cement mortar. The approximate ratio of materials for its manufacture is as follows: 4 parts of sand are taken for one part of cement, the amount of water - according to the state of the solution - it should be of medium density.
After the layer dries (after a day or two), a waterproofing layer is laid. This can be a two-layer roofing material or one of the new bituminous waterproofing (rolled or coated).
The formwork is set according to the selected dimensions of the foundation.

A layer of concrete is poured. For one part of cement, you need to take 2.5 parts of sand, 4 parts of fine gravel or expanded clay (with expanded clay you will get a more thermally insulated base). First, dry cement is mixed with sand until an even color is obtained. Then gravel or expanded clay is poured, everything is mixed again. When all the parts are evenly distributed, it is diluted with water. Water usually takes a little less volume than cement. The laid out mortar is carefully leveled, checking its horizontalness with the help of a building level.

The foundation for the furnace can be overlaid with brick: this way it looks more attractive

Instead of a concrete layer, bricks can be used. They are placed on a cement-sand mortar.

The formwork can be removed after three days, and the calculated strength of the concrete is gaining three to four weeks. For normal maturation, it must be regularly moistened with water: sprinkle abundantly 2-4 times a day, depending on the temperature. There should be no puddles, but the solution should get wet well. If it's too hot outside, cover the base with plastic wrap so the moisture doesn't evaporate quickly.

There is a moisturizing option that does not require frequent spraying: cover it with burlap or some other fabric, pour a good layer of sawdust, and wet it. This is enough for a day.

A concrete base is cheaper and stronger, but requires more physical effort, even if you have a concrete mixer. To the disadvantages of concrete, one must add the complexity of its dismantling.

How to veneer the foundation for a metal furnace

If the upper part of the base is cast from concrete, then outwardly it has an unattractive appearance. It is possible to overlay the foundation with bricks from the outside, but this is if conditions allow: the brick is still of decent size. For other cases, facing with thick ceramic tiles (precisely thick) is suitable. Porcelain stoneware is likely to crack at high temperatures. Perhaps a natural finishing stone will do.

When tiling, place washers of thick soft metal (copper or aluminium) under the oven feet. Sharp hard legs often scratch the front surface of the tile, causing it to split. Washers will be insurance against scratches.

Heat Resistant Tile Adhesive

The tiles are laid on a special heat-resistant adhesive (there are some). The grout is also selected appropriate - resistant to high temperatures. You can do without grout: gently embroider the seams with glue. If you do everything carefully, the view is normal. The grout only looks good at first. Then, when ash and soot are added, you are tormented to rub it off.

concrete foundation

To build the foundation for the oven you will need:

Cement.

If your soil contains a lot of sulfates and the water table is quite high, we recommend that you use SSPC grade sulfate resistant cement. The difference between SSPTs cement and ordinary PCs lies in the ability of concrete from this cement grade to withstand the damaging effects of sulfates dissolved in groundwater.

Sand coarse-grained without inclusions. The ideal option would be to use mountain sand, but sea and river sand are also suitable. We have already considered methods for cleaning sand from impurities on the pages of our Internet resource.
Formwork material.
Rubble.
Ruberoid or dense polyethylene.

Tools:

Mortar trough
Shovels: bayonet, shovel
Building level
Hammer, nails, hacksaw for formwork construction
Construction stapler

Do I need to go deep

You can start building the foundation for the furnace. Many may have a question whether it is necessary to go deep into the ground when laying a foundation with their own hands under the stove. Our answer is definitely. Sometimes there is an option in which the foundation is arranged with a small depth. Only the upper vegetation layer is removed and after the formwork is installed, the foundation is poured. This is completely the wrong way. Foundation slab arranged in such a way will be constantly stressed especially in winter time. The motivation for the economical consumption of building materials in the construction of such a foundation is not justified in any way. Deepening must be carried out to a depth below freezing level in your area. You can use a shallow foundation in the bath for the stove, but with the mandatory installation of piles under the main foundation slab.

Pit device - basic parameters

Digging a pit

For dry, sandy soils enough 500 - 600 mm. But on heaving soils, this depth should not be less than 1000 mm. We repeat - this is the correct foundation device.

Proper foundation laying

By marking a swarm of a pit. The size of the pit must allow the installation of formwork. But if the soil in your area is dense enough and the edges do not crumble, you can do without it. In any case, it all depends on the specific location and soil. When the formwork is installed, it is poured into the bottom of the pit crushed stone layer 100 mm thick. Crushed stone must be leveled. After that, it is necessary to compact the crushed stone with a manual rammer.

Waterproofing and pouring

To waterproof the foundation, a layer of roofing material is attached to the inside of the formwork using a construction stapler. You can start filling

It is important to know that the upper level of the foundation should be 60 - 70 mm lower than the main floor of the building. We prepare the solution in the following proportions:

Cement 1 part
Sand 3 parts
Crushed stone 5 parts

Sand and gravel must be clean. Additional inclusions reduce the adhesive ability of the mortar mixture. It will be ideal if the sand and gravel are washed with water.

Getting ready first dry mix of cement, sand and gravel. Can be used.
After shoveling and obtaining a homogeneous mass, water is gradually added until a solution of consistency is formed thick sour cream. The solution can be poured.

Try to complete the filling in one day. Otherwise, several layers are formed in the foundation, which can lead to cracking.

Foundation construction

For a metal oven you can not build a separate foundation and limit yourself to fire cut-offs. However, if the weight approaches the limit value (700 kg) and it is made up of the weight of water in a fully filled boiler plus the weight of the stones plus the own weight of the oven- it is better to equip a separate foundation for a metal furnace. For this you need:

Dig a pit (to a freezing depth, but not less than 50 cm), sprinkled with rubble and thoroughly rammed.
A concrete layer is poured on top, which must completely harden. The composition of the solution - cement with sand 1:4.
Double layer of waterproofing (roofing felt or similar sheet material),
Filling the main slab with a solution of cement, sand, fine gravel. While the solution has not hardened, the horizontal is checked and, if necessary, corrected.

Foundation for a brick oven requires a more thorough approach and is made as durable as possible.

A pit is being dug. Most often, this is done simultaneously with a common foundation pit for the entire building.
A layer of sand is poured to remove the bottom of the pit. Sand is poured in layers of 15 cm, each layer is poured with water to compact. Subsequent layers of sand are poured only after the water has drained. This technology facilitates the compaction of sand and provides a dense layer. After that, a butting layer is laid - broken brick, concrete, thickness - 20 cm. Again a layer of sand spilled with water - and so on until a dense cushion is formed, which does not settle during tamping.
A layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick is laid.
A formwork for the main foundation slab is erected on top.
Inside the formwork, a reinforcing cage is installed, welded or knitted.
Concrete is poured to a height that does not reach the floor level by 5-15 cm. It is aged until completely dry.
The surface is abundantly smeared with tar, several rows of brickwork are laid on top to the floor level, on which the construction of the furnace itself will begin.

Useful video

The specialist explains the intricacies of construction:

Options

The most common options for building a foundation, proven by frequent use and quite reliable, are considered. In some cases, other types of foundations are used, for example, pile-slab. With this method, a monolithic slab rests on piles buried to dense layers of soil.

The method is good in that the possibility of subsidence of the bedding and the butovka layer is excluded, the piles stand firmly and motionless. Driven reinforced concrete piles or screw piles are used as piles, making it possible to self-screw into the ground. The installed piles are cut (built up) to the required length, tied with a belt from a channel (grillage), which serves as a support for the slab.

Nuances to consider when building

Experts advise to observe reasonable proportionality in the ratio of the weight of the furnace and the power of the foundation. It must be remembered that the foundation itself is also subject to sedimentary processes that can upset the balance bases, create a warp or violation of the plane. The thicker the butovochny layers, the higher the risk of sedimentary deformations.

Hence the rule: the foundation must correspond to the load. This applies to such types as monolithic, brick, rubble and slab foundations, which are, in fact, variants of the same foundation.

Pile foundations that require the use of equipment must be designed in advance and pile driving should be carried out simultaneously with the general ones, otherwise the equipment will not come to the place of work later. At all, all work on the construction of the bath should be designed and carried out simultaneously so that one is not ahead of the other. Thus, it will be possible to avoid errors and inconsistencies in the stages of construction.

Screw piles can be screwed even inside the finished building if there is room for gate movement. This option may be needed when building a stove in an already finished building or when reconstructing a bath.

In conclusion, it should be noted that the issue of reliable and competent placement of the furnace is quite complicated and responsible, but it is necessary to understand it, since the safety of the entire building, the comfort and safety of people may depend on the correct actions. Before starting work, it is necessary to thoroughly study all available materials for the chosen method of construction, find out the geological conditions of the area, and provide for compliance with building codes and regulations. This will ensure a long and reliable service for your bath.

You may also need the following materials of the section on the foundations of baths:

Foundation height and depth
How to do it right and how to do it yourself,
How to pour correctly
What is the best foundation.

reference Information

Where to buy, order:

Sauna stoves >>>

Completion of foundation works

The roofing material protects the brick from moisture, which, coming from the ground, destroys it.

As for the inside of the foundation for the Russian stove, it is done “for backfilling” (at first, stones are simply laid, then a liquid solution is used - stones are poured into them). The foundation for the buta stove is erected without bringing it directly to the level of the floor (clean floor). Leave 14-15 cm. Ordinary clay bricks are laid on the very top of the masonry, which occupy a whole row. In the same way, the foundations for the pipe are equipped. Now you need to equip the waterproofing. Most often, roofing material is taken, which is laid in two layers. Suitable and glassine, and only. Another brick row completes the work.

The foundation for a brick stove should be made one row lower from the border of the clean floor. And in order to protect the furnace array from moisture, a waterproofing layer is laid, on which the last brick row is laid. He must be equal to the clean floor. In the case of installing a foundation under a pipe, the same operations are carried out separately. When laying corners, its correctness must be controlled after 4 rows, even better after 3, which is done with a plumb line or using templates in the form of a metal square.

It is impossible to bandage the foundation masonry for the Russian stove with the walls of the room, since there is a possibility of masonry destruction if the walls in the house settle or the structure under construction settles.

It is also desirable (which is quite relevant) that the owner does not face the problem of laying pipes under the foundation. This is a rather serious and complex matter. Therefore, initially it is necessary to determine the location of utilities at the project stage. Then there will be no unexpected expenses in the house and you won’t have to change anything on the go. The foundation for the Russian stove will meet all expectations, and for a long period of time it will not have to be reconstructed.

Innokenty Andreevich Vlasov

Ivan, in this case, you need to start from a 10-liter bucket. Fill a full bucket with sand and add 1/3 of cement, mix everything will be 10 liters. or.

How is the calculation of finished concrete per 1 square meter of screed 5 cm thick? How much sand and cement will be required for this? Not to buy too much. Want.

For different grades of concrete, if measured by volume, then only the ratio of sand and crushed stone to cement changes, and exactly half of the volume of cement is always taken from water.

A few additions: 1. If you need to perform high-quality waterproofing with liquid rubber, it is advisable to use geotextiles over the entire surface. Consumption.

How and with what to make the upper border of the foundation cladding (natural stone. flagstone)?

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Why do you need to make a foundation for the furnace

The lack of a foundation will soon affect reliability and safety. Therefore, if you plan to use the stove for a long time, then building a solid foundation is an integral part of the construction.

If this component does not exist at all, then it may not work at all to use the bath for the purpose.

Concrete

The classic base for the furnace is a concrete slab, which is made by pouring a cement-crushed stone mortar into a deep pit.

Scheme and device

The general arrangement of the foundation is the same regardless of the type of furnace and soil, usually it is a solid base in the form of a cube, which is made from a large amount of concrete mortar. The base device is well shown in this diagram:

The diagram displays the base that we calculated above for a stove weighing 1150 kilograms.

Materials and tools

To install a high-quality concrete foundation, a certain list of material is required:

Cement;
coarse sand;
Boards for the construction of formwork;
crushed stone;
Waterproofing, in the role of which roofing material or plastic film perfectly serves.

Also, to install a concrete foundation for a brick oven with your own hands, you need the following tools:

A container for preparing a solution or a concrete mixer;
Bayonet and shovel;
Measuring tools: tape measure, corner, level;
For the manufacture of formwork: hammer, hacksaw, nails;
For installation of waterproofing construction stapler;
For laying the base, a manual type rammer.

Solution preparation

The base for the oven must be strong, so the concrete mortar is prepared in the following proportions: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 5 parts of crushed stone. This consistency will be able to withstand large mass furnaces for a long time.

Manufacturing instructions

It does not matter what kind of brick base is installed under the stove or concrete, it is initially necessary to dig a foundation pit under it. The depth of the pit depends on several factors: the mass of the stove, the type of soil, the presence of groundwater. The width and length of the pit must correspond to the dimensions of the heating system and additionally have a certain margin for formwork. In order not to accidentally make a mistake, it is recommended that you first prepare a drawing of the future concrete base.
After that, the formwork is installed, in size corresponding to the final dimensions of the structure, according to the drawing and diagram, which should have been prepared in advance. Sometimes formwork is not needed - if the soil is very hard and does not collapse from external influences on it.
After the formwork is ready, waterproofing is laid, attach it to the formwork using a stapler.
Pieces of brick are poured into the resulting pit, or large stones - this is necessary so that the resulting concrete slab under the stove does not sag and is well adhered to the ground, as shown in the photo below:
Then a concrete solution is poured, so that the base rises 6 centimeters above the floor. When pouring, carefully measure its evenness with a building level and level it to perfect condition.
If it is possible to overlay the ground part of the foundation with brick or rubble concrete stone, this can be done in this way:

Before starting the installation of the heating system, the foundation for the stove should dry for about 10 days, spray the concrete surface with ordinary water for the first week.

The foundation for the furnace what is the role of the soil

Features of laying the furnace foundation, depending on the type of soil.

The foundation for the stove is better to equip on solid soils. These include, for example, granite (rocks), limestones. They have high compressive strength and are resistant to negative temperatures and groundwater. Dense soils (for example, clay or sand) are also a solid foundation for the foundation, if the moisture content in them does not exceed the permissible level. The difference between bulk ones is in a loose and more diverse composition. Therefore, such soil is taken out until a dense one is found, or it is carefully rammed. Clay sandy soils, loams and sandy loams are well suited as foundations for foundations.

Only on macroporous soils, which contain clay, but with large pores, it is impossible to make a foundation for a Russian stove, since the water that has entered liquefies such soils, and they become fragile.

The laying of the foundation in the soil layer with high humidity is carried out using strong materials (both artificial and natural), such as concrete, rubble stone and others, which are resistant to the damaging effects of water.

They lay the foundation in dense and dry soils using a lime (or with the addition of cement) mortar. If the humidity is excessive, only a cement mortar is required.