Chlorine forms chloramines with organics - I know this without Google. If everything is done correctly, then they should not be in the pool. And with chicken - the policy is clean - they do not let us into the WTO, we do not take their chicken. If it were dangerous, the Americans would have filled up their courts with lawsuits long ago ...

Religious? MPC, lethal concentration, free radicals - are these religious concepts? And chemists - a religious sect of scientists or what?.

About the legs - no need to talk about what you do not really understand.

1. In any pool (and in a small private pool, standing on a summer cottage in much larger quantities) - there is organic matter.
2. MPC peroxide - what is the lethal concentration (free radicals.) ??

Hydrogen peroxide
Pharmacological properties
Antiseptic, haemostatic, disinfectant, deodorant.
The antiseptic effect is due to the oxidative effect - upon contact with damaged skin and mucous membranes, hydrogen peroxide decomposes under the influence of catalase (mainly) and peroxidase with the release of oxygen (including active forms), which creates unfavorable conditions for the development of microorganisms, especially anaerobic and putrefactive flora; however, it is characterized by a short duration and weak severity of the effect. When the solution enters the wound, the destruction (oxidation) of proteins, blood, pus occurs, and its mechanical cleansing due to abundant foaming (due to gas bubbles rising from the walls) from polluting particles, small foreign bodies, blood clots. This foaming promotes thrombosis and stops bleeding from small vessels.

Indications for use
Primary treatment of superficial contaminated wounds, cleansing the wound of pus and blood clots, stopping capillary bleeding from superficial wounds, tooth sockets and nosebleeds.
The drug is used externally for washing and rinsing with stomatitis, tonsillitis, gynecological diseases.

Contraindications: Hypersensitivity.

Dosage and administration
The surface of the skin, wounds or ulcers are treated with swabs dipped in a solution, contaminated wounds, ulcers are treated with a jet. For the treatment of mucous membranes - in the form of washings and rinses, when rinsing the mouth and throat, dilute with water to a concentration of 0.2-0.3% (1 tablespoon per 1 glass of water).

According to the acute toxicity parameter, it belongs to the 3rd class of moderately hazardous substances when administered into the stomach according to GOST 12.1.007-76. Solutions in concentrations up to 3% (by PV) do not have a local irritating effect on the skin, above 3% (by PV) cause irritation of the skin and eyes.

http://www.infodez.ru/product/1263.html This is from the instructions for use in medical institutions.

My pool has a peroxide concentration of 0.7 l/m3 - which is approximately 0.025%.

Now a little in the same style as sectarian chemists write about peroxide ...

SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE (SOLUTION, ACTIVE CHLORINE >10%) ICSC: 1119

IMPORTANT DATA
PHYSICAL STATE, APPEARANCE:
CLEAR YELLOWISH SOLUTION WITH CHARACTERISTIC ODOUR.

CHEMICAL DANGERS:
The substance decomposes on heating, in contact with acids and under the influence of light, producing toxic and corrosive gases including chlorine (see ICSC #0126). The substance is a strong oxidizer and reacts violently with combustible and reducing materials causing fire and explosion hazard. An aqueous solution is a strong base, it reacts violently with acid and is corrosive. Aggressive to many metals.

ROUTES OF ENTRY:
The substance can be absorbed into the body by inhalation of the aerosol and by ingestion.

INHALATION RISK:
There is no indication of the rate at which a dangerous concentration in air is reached when this substance evaporates at 20°C.

EFFECTS OF SHORT-TERM EXPOSURE:
The substance is corrosive to the eyes, skin and respiratory tract. Corrosive action if swallowed. Aerosol inhalation may cause pulmonary edema (see Notes). Effects may be delayed. Shown medical supervision.

EFFECTS OF LONG-TERM OR REPEATED EXPOSURE:
Repeated or prolonged contact may cause skin sensitization.

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT
The substance is toxic to aquatic organisms.

NOTES
Household bleaches usually contain about 5% sodium hypochlorite (approximate pH11, irritant), while more concentrated bleaches contain 10-15% sodium hypochlorite (approximate pH13, caustic. Symptoms of pulmonary edema often appear after a few hours and are aggravated by exercise. Therefore, rest is required and medical supervision Consideration should be given to the immediate administration of the appropriate agent by a physician or a person authorized by him

Chemistry for the pool: harmful or useful?

Maintenance of the pool without the use of chemicals is impossible. Of course, the chemistry for the pool can be different. Probably, there is a harmful “chemical” element chlorine, but there is a useful oxygen, in general, completely “not chemical”? Is it so?

Let's look at the classes of hazardous substances. Ozone, consisting of pure oxygen (“not chemistry”), is included in the highest - I hazard class (extremely hazardous substances), chlorine (“chemistry”) - II (highly hazardous substances). And this is no coincidence. The lethal concentration of "non-chemical" ozone is 10 times lower than that of "chemical" chlorine.

Sodium chloride, better known as table salt, we eat every day. The fact that despite the content of chlorine, the salt does not smell at all, does not suggest any thoughts?

Why do we think that chlorine has a strong unpleasant odor? The disinfectant in the pool is not chlorine, but hypochlorous acid, which has a subtle odor. If you don't believe me, buy a bottle of whiteness bleach and smell it. The concentration of chlorine in the "whiteness" is 10,000 times greater than what is necessary for effective disinfection of water in the pool. Chloramines have a strong odor. With proper water treatment, they should not be at all.

In order for the water to delight you with crystal clearness throughout the season, it is necessary to get rid of all pollutants that enter the pool. Here is a complete list of these contaminants:

1. All kinds of leaves, pollen, sand, etc. A filtering system is used for removal. If you do not have a filtration system, then you need to buy one. The only alternative is to change the water every 24 hours.

2. Organic pollution. Sweat, urine, etc. Against them is necessary oxidizer. Chlorine is a good oxidizing agent. Hydrogen peroxide is an excellent oxidizing agent, 30% stronger than chlorine.

3. Pathogenic bacteria and microbes. Against them it is necessary disinfectant. Chlorine is an excellent disinfectant. Hydrogen peroxide is a very weak disinfectant, which is why it has to be used in concentrations about 100 times greater than what is needed for chlorine.

4. Algae. Against them, a disinfectant is also needed, but in higher concentrations. The fact is that they are covered with something like a protective film, which is more difficult to break through. There are algicides - substances that are directed specifically against algae. It is algae that cause first turbidity, and then greening of the water. Using only algaecides, you can get transparent water full of disease-causing microbes.

There are two approaches to water disinfection:

1. Allow microorganisms to multiply in the pool for some time, and then destroy them with a shock dose of chemistry. This approach is somewhat simpler and manufacturers offer users exactly this method. The problem is that it makes it almost impossible to accurately dose the chemicals. No one can predict how many bacteria have thrived since the last dose of the disinfectant wore off, so it's impossible to predict how much to apply. Therefore, it is proposed to introduce a certain “spread-ceiling” dose. Is it enough to effectively disinfect pool water? Depends on your luck.
2. Maintain a level of disinfectant that will kill all micro-organisms entering the pool.

Prevention is much easier than cure. Using the second approach to pool operation is not much more difficult than the first, and gives a much better result.

With filtering, everything is extremely simple. Pool water must be filtered. During the day, the entire volume of water in the pool must pass through the filter 2-3 times. The greater the load on the pool, the closer this figure should be to three.

Let's move on to chemistry. Most swimming pools use chlorine-based products for disinfection. If these drugs are used incorrectly, the pool begins to smell. Everyone knows about this and therefore they are trying to look for an alternative to chlorine. Therefore, I will start with alternative drugs. They can be divided into two categories:

1. Frankly harmful or simply useless.

2. Working, but having very significant shortcomings.

"Active Oxygen"! Sounds great, doesn't it? "Active oxygen" is a marketing name. The chemical name is Potassium Peroxymonosulfate. But at least without chlorine! This remedy lasts less than two hours! Then it breaks up. And it is recommended to use it once every 5 days. All these 5 days (minus two hours) bacteria will multiply in your pool with pleasure.

In the West, potassium peroxymonosulfate is used only as a shock agent, i.e. a product that allows you to clean an overgrown pool. For disinfection it not suitable.

It is unlikely that you will find a manufacturer of chemicals that would recommend the use of hydrogen peroxide (also known as perhydrol) to disinfect the pool. In some systems, peroxide is used as a shock agent (i.e., used when the pool is overgrown and it is necessary to massively destroy the organic matter that has bred in it). Nevertheless, on the network you can find a recommendation to use peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide breaks down into water and oxygen. Has no smell. Relatively cheap. Perfect solution? NO!

Yes, it breaks down into water and oxygen. And what from this? Before it breaks down, it easily damages living cells, dries the skin, bleaches the hair, and in high concentrations causes burns more painful than hydrochloric acid. However, peroxide is a very weak disinfectant. For effective destruction of microorganisms, the concentration of peroxide in the pool should be at least 50-100 g/m 3 . And the forums offer more. This is only 300-600 times less than what is sold in bottles in a pharmacy. There will be no burns from such a concentration, but there will be no health benefits either. The only thing that inspires a little optimism is that the peroxide breaks down under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Most likely in a day there will be nothing left in the outdoor pool. Yes, microbes, of course, will multiply, but in this case, it’s better to let there be microbes ...

Now consider the drugs that are approved by the US agency EPA. There are only three of them:

Bromine

biguanides

Chlorine

With the correct use of these drugs, you can be sure that the water in the pool is completely safe for swimming. I'll start again with alternatives to chlorine - bromine and biguanides. These drugs do not have a chlorine smell, but there are significant drawbacks. Let's start with the fact that they are more expensive. But maybe the overpayment makes sense?

BROMINE

Bromine-based preparations are more expensive than chlorine-based preparations. Bromine is available only in slow-dissolving tablets, which must be dissolved only in special (expensive) brominators. It has a "chemical" smell. The concentration required for effective disinfection is higher than that of chlorine. Decomposes under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Chlorine also decomposes, but for chlorine there is a stabilizer that slows down this process. There is no stabilizer for bromine, so it is practically unsuitable for outdoor pools.

Where are the benefits?

BIGUANIDES

Biguanides, or rather polyhexamethylene biguanide, has disinfectant properties, which means it is suitable for disinfecting pool water. In Russia, biguanides for the pool are sold under the brand name Dezavid-Bas.

Biguanides have a unique mechanism of action: the molecular chain of biguanides seems to “stick” to the walls of bacterial cells, reducing its permeability, which leads to the death of bacteria. Cells of higher organisms, in particular humans, have more complex protective structures, so biguanides have very low toxicity to humans. Polyhexamethylene biguanide is not destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, but is used only for its intended purpose - for disinfection.

So, are biguanides the perfect pool cleaner?

Complexes consisting of bacteria with biguanides “adhered” to them are retained by the filter, significantly increasing the load on it. Cheap cartridge filters clog very quickly. Since they do not provide for backwashing, they are practically not suitable for operation in conjunction with biguanides. With sand filters, the situation is better, but even in them the interval between sand changes is significantly reduced. However, this shortcoming could be tolerated.

A much bigger problem is that some microorganisms are able to develop resistance to this disinfectant. It is at this point that the problems begin. The pool, which so delighted with crystal clear water the first season, becomes cloudy. One could try to destroy the bacteria with a shock dose of chlorine, but biguanides react with chlorine, coloring the water. Moreover, replacing the water may not help, resistive bacteria survive it on the walls of the pool and in the pipes of the filtration system.

Should biguanides be used to disinfect pool water or not? Decide for yourself. We can definitely say that they will not harm your health. If you are allergic to chlorine, this may be a good alternative. You may be one of those lucky ones who don't develop resistant bacteria at all. For those who love experiments, two tips gleaned from the English-speaking Internet:

1. Add hydrogen peroxide regularly according to the manufacturer's recommendations! Without adding it, you will not get problems immediately, but the long-term effect can be extremely negative.
2. If your pool is cloudy, switch to chlorine. You have little chance of winning the war against resistant bacteria.

OZONE AND UV

It will be about ozonizer and water purification with ultraviolet light. Such expensive installations should certainly work! And they really work. The ozonizer is exceptionally effective in destroying all microorganisms contained in the water passing through it. The UV setup is not as efficient, but it certainly does the job.

The problem is that both bacteria and especially algae are able to stick and multiply on the walls of the pool. They will never get into the filtering system, and then there will come a point when no filtering helps. Therefore, the disinfectant must be contained in the pool water.

Both ozone and UV effectively destroy free chlorine in pool water. Strange as it may sound, to maintain sufficient levels of free chlorine in a pool with an ozonator or ultraviolet unit, you will need to spend more chlorine, not less.

What is left? Chlorine

In the pool, the active substance is not chlorine, but hypochlorous acid (it is usually called "free chlorine"). She has a smell, but not at all sharp, but very, very moderate. Most likely you just won't notice it. But what about the "hospital" smell familiar to us from public pools? This is the smell of chloramines (they are called "bound chlorine") - products of incomplete breakdown of organic matter by hypochlorous acid. A properly maintained pool should be free of chloramines. If an unpleasant odor is present, this is a signal: something has gone wrong, it is necessary to take action.

As a rule, combined chlorine appears when there is a lack of free chlorine. In order to break down the bound chlorine, it is necessary to increase the concentration of free chlorine. Those. To eliminate the chlorine smell you need to add chlorine! The concentration of free chlorine in the pool must be sufficient, not low! If an unpleasant smell has appeared in your pool, then by lowering the concentration of chlorine you can increase the smell, and many times over! Avoid using "reduced chlorine" preparations. They cost more, and there is no benefit from the “lower content” (well, if there is no harm).

Chlorine perfectly copes with all the tasks assigned to the chemistry for the pool:

1. chlorine oxidizes organic pollutants.
2. chlorine is exceptionally effective in destroying pathogenic bacteria and microbes.
3. chlorine destroys algae.

The only truly significant disadvantage of chlorine is that it decomposes under the influence of ultraviolet rays. But this disadvantage can be overcome with the help of a stabilizer.

The disadvantage of chlorine is that it breaks down under the action of sunlight. And it falls apart very quickly. If there are no stabilizing agents in the pool, then half of the free chlorine will break down in about 35 minutes. Fortunately, there is a drug that solves this problem - cyanuric acid. Cyanuric acid protects chlorine from ultraviolet radiation, reducing its loss. The reverse side of the protective effect is that the stabilizer binds part of the chlorine, weakening its disinfectant effect. When using a stabilizer in a pool, the required chlorine level will be higher than in a pool without a stabilizer, but this is not to be feared. Cyanuric acid "binds" the excess, creating something like a reserve.

Let's move on to the treatment of water in the pool. But first of all, we need a tester. Immediately eliminate the test strips. The manufacturer does not warn in vain that with them "the measurement of the ph level becomes like a child's game." We'll need test set containing capable of measuring ph and free chlorine content.

Measure ph. pH less than 7.2 may cause eye irritation. pH less than 6.8 can damage metal parts in the pool. A pH greater than 7.8 can cause calcium deposits. Manufacturers recommend keeping the pH up to 7.4 stating that at higher pH levels, chlorine loses its disinfecting power. This is true, but in water that does not contain a stabilizer. In the presence of a stabilizer, the situation changes and chlorine retains its disinfecting power up to significantly higher ph values.

In most pools, ph tends to rise over time. Aeration of the pool (hydromassage, fountains, active games) raises ph. You can raise ph with the help of the drug "ph +".

To lower ph use drug "ph-".

The dosage is indicated on the ph + and ph- preparations, but in fact the dosage depends very much on the alkalinity of the water. If you notice that the ph changes too much, I recommend raising the alkalinity by adding 90 g of ordinary baking soda (not laundry or washing) per cubic meter of water. This will reduce the consumption of ph-.

Finally the ph is adjusted and we can start chlorinating the water.

Means "Longafor" is specially intended for long-term disinfection of water; destroys organic substances that cause water turbidity; counteracts the growth of microspores of green plankton in outdoor pools; has a brightening effect. The special composition of chemistry, as well as a special manufacturing technique, allow Longafor tablets to be dissolved in the pool for a long time from seven to fourteen days, depending on the temperature and hardness of the water. Evenly dissolving during this time, "Longafor" releases a given amount of active chlorine into the pool water every day - this is exactly the amount that is necessary to disinfect a pool of a certain volume. By placing the tablets in an autochlorinator (if it is not available in a skimmer or a floating “float” dispenser), you thereby free yourself from the need to add the required doses of chlorine to the water every day. You just need to put the required number of tablets in the skimmer and replace the completely dissolved tablets with new ones a week later .

FIGHT ALGAE

Cyanobacteria, or blue-green algae, are among the oldest organisms on our planet. The pool for them is a great environment for existence and reproduction. Algae is not dangerous to health, but swimming in muddy green water full of algae is unlikely to please anyone. To combat algae, algicides are used, i.e. substances that destroy algae. Unlike bacteria, algae are covered with a kind of protective film that makes it difficult for the disinfectant to work. The best algaecide is again chlorine. Although the concentration of chlorine needed to kill algae is higher than the concentration needed to kill bacteria, it is still low and will not make bathing uncomfortable.

What is sold under the name "algaecides" would be more correct to call "algistats", i.e. substances that hinder the growth of algae. They do not destroy the algae, but "wash" the protective film from them, allowing the disinfectant to do its job. That is why it is useless to apply large doses of algaecide when the pool is overgrown. In this case, the algaecide is an additional component that makes it easier for the shock dose of chlorine to do its job.

The more carefully you maintain the level of chlorine in your pool, the less the need for a special algaecide. However, if the chlorine level in your pool falls below the concentration at which chlorine kills algae, it makes sense to use algicide. Algaecide is not destroyed by sunlight, so it is very easy to maintain its constant concentration.

IF YOU GO AWAY FOR A WEEK.

The described method requires daily monitoring and correction of water parameters. And if you need to leave the pool unattended for a long time? For this case, I can offer the following solution:

1. Connect the filtration system to the daily timer

2. Cover the pool with an opaque cover. This will protect the water from unnecessary loss of chlorine.

3. Adjust the chlorine level to 12 g/m 3 .

4. Add algaecide (preferably non-foaming) according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

Disinfection with chlorine or water chlorination is the most reliable, simple and inexpensive way to purify water.

For decades, water has been disinfected with chlorine. Chlorination of water in the pool is simply necessary when the intake of pollutants is very high - for example, public pools, when water pollution is especially strong - the water is "launched" when the water temperature in the pool is over 28C for a long time.

For home pools, water chlorination is also one of the most common methods of disinfection.

The use of chlorine as a disinfectant - chlorination of water in the pool, has not only a bactericidal effect. Chlorine oxidizes organic impurities in water that are not captured by the filter, after which most of them are already within the power of the filter.

However, the use of chlorine - chlorination of pool water as a disinfectant - is not very popular among pool owners due to a couple of reasons: irritation of the mucous membranes and the unpleasant smell of chlorine. In fact, high-quality and pure chlorine in pure water (in the correct proportion) does not have an unpleasant odor and does not irritate the skin and mucous membranes. The source of odor and the cause of irritation are chlorine compounds - chloramines (chlorine derivatives of ammonia (inorganic chloramines) and amines (organic chloramines), in the molecules of which the chlorine atom is bonded to nitrogen). If the water is clean, then the smell of chlorine is invisible, and there is no irritation.

What to do if the pool water smells like chlorine? There are two reasons for this. First, the most common option is heavily polluted water.

Polluted water becomes with a significant increase in the intake of pollutants, or improper use of chlorine-containing preparations. Secondly, the smell of chlorine appears when it is outside the acceptable level, and chlorine is less soluble in water and volatilizes. It is necessary to carry out shock chlorination (shock chlorination) with the preparation, having previously adjusted the pH level in the range of 7.2-7.6. If after that the smell of chlorine remains, carry out the shock chlorination procedure again.

When adding chlorine-containing pool chemicals, it is worth considering that the solubility of chlorine in water decreases with increasing temperature. For example, at a water temperature of 0 ° C, 14.8 grams of chlorine dissolves in a liter of water, at 20 ° C - 9.6 grams. in a liter of water, at 25 ° C - 6.5 g. in a liter of water, at 40 ° C - 4.6 g. in a liter of water.

Chlorination of pool water is a simple and reliable method of disinfection, using inexpensive and high-quality preparations. The most popular chlorine-containing preparations are products from the series pool chemicals Aquadoctor. Below are the most popular and well-proven chlorine-based products.

AquaDoctor C60 and C60-T

Instant formulation (organic) in the form of 20 gram tablets (AquaDoctor C60-T) or granules (AquaDoctor C60). It is a fast-dissolving, stabilized chlorine-containing composition with a wide range of applications - suitable for regular disinfection of pool water and for shock chlorination - impact chlorination.

Aquadoctor C60 contains 60% active chlorine in its composition. The composition acts on bacteria, viruses, fungi, and destroys organic substances that cause turbidity and pollution of pool water.

The agent does not lead to clogging of filters and the formation of deposits and dissolves without residue. It has a stabilizing effect on free chlorine in water and does not change the pH level. Chlorination of water in the pool with this drug is the most popular way to disinfect water.

With careful and correct application, it is possible to use in pools made of vinyl and polyester - the composition will not discolor these materials. To prevent discoloration of the material, the preparation must first be dissolved in a container and poured into the pool along the perimeter, or injected through skimmers.

Dosing:

Primary processing: set the pH level within 7.2-7.6, add the drug to the water at the rate of 20 grams (or one tablet) of the drug per 1 m3 of water. To complete the chemical reaction, a break in the operation of the pool is required for at least 10 hours. Therefore, any chlorination of water is best done in the evening.

Subsequent dose: once the pH of the water has been adjusted again, add 2-3 grams of the composition per 1 m3 of water daily or 1-2 tablets per 10 m3 of water once every three days. The free chlorine level measured by the chlorine tester should be between 0.3-0.6 mg/l. - This chlorine level in pool water.

You can buy Aquadoctor C60 and C60-T in our online store maxipool.com.ua

AquaDoctor C90-T

Slowly dissolving organic formulation in the form of 200 gram tablets, stabilized for long-term disinfection of pool water. Not suitable for shock chlorination. For shock treatment use C60 or C60-T.

It acts on bacteria, viruses, fungi, and destroys organic matter that causes turbidity and pollution in the pool water. Has a high active chlorine content - 90% — vinyl and polyester pool covers can stain.

The tablets are placed in the skimmer basket. The chemical dissolves slowly and without residue, does not lead to the formation of deposits and filter clogging. Chlorination of water in the pool is effective at any water hardness.

AquaDoctor C90-T does not contain lime, is pH neutral, and has a stabilizing effect on active chlorine in water. Prevents the decomposition of chlorine at high temperatures and strong sunlight.

Dosing:

Primary processing: use 2 tablets per 30 m3 of water - only after adjusting the pH level!

Subsequent dosage: once the pH is balanced again, add one tablet per 30 m3 of water to the skimmer basket for 8-14 days.

The indicated doses should be considered as general recommendations and, in specific cases, depending on the water temperature, the loading of the pool by swimmers, and other doses of the drug should be increased or reduced. Be sure to check the water with a tester for the required level of chlorine! The normal amount of free (active) chlorine should be 0.3-0.6 mg/l. Carry out chlorination of water in the pool carefully and in accordance with the instructions for the preparations.

The drug is packaged in buckets of 5 kg and 50 kg.

Precautions:
Never mix with other chemicals - contact with acid produces dangerous chlorine gas! Always add chemicals to water, not water to chemicals!

You can buy Aquadoctor S90-T in our online store maxipool.com.ua

AquaDoctor MC-T is a combination drug that includes chlorine, an anti-algae agent and a flocculant (coagulant). It is a slow-dissolving organic compound in the form of 200 gram tablets, stabilized for chlorination of pool water - not intended for initial disinfection. For shock treatment use C60 or C60-T.

Dosing:

Once the pH is balanced, add one tablet per 15 m3 of water to the skimmer basket for 8-14 days. The condition for the effective action of the drug is its use in the pH range of 7.0-7.4.

Put the required dose into the skimmers and then turn on the filter unit. During the dissolution of the tablet, chlorination of the pool water will occur.

The indicated doses of water chlorination should be considered as general recommendations, and in specific cases, depending on the water temperature, pool loading by swimmers, and other doses of the drug should be increased or reduced. Be sure to check the water with a tester - the amount of free chlorine should be 0.3-0.6 mg / l.

The drug is packaged in buckets of 5 kg and 50 kg.

You can buy Aquadoctor MS-T in our online store maxipool.com.ua

Once again, we want to emphasize that pool water chlorination is the most reliable, time-tested and inexpensive way to disinfect pool water. A strong chlorine smell indicates that the pool water is full of contaminants or the pH is set to the wrong level.

Currently, there is nothing more effective in neutralizing pathogens in pool water than chlorine. There is a generally accepted norm for the amount of chlorine, which must be strictly observed in private and public pools.

The norm of chlorine in the pool and the determination of its amount

The chemical element Cl is a non-metal. It has bactericidal properties and can oxidize organic impurities in water. The disadvantages of the product include an unpleasant pungent odor and an irritating effect on the eyes. If high-quality chlorine is selected for disinfection, added to clean water in the required concentration, a heavy smell is practically not felt, and there is no irritating effect on the skin and eyes.

The disadvantages of chlorine are actively manifested if nitrogen-based compounds are in the pool, which, as a result of decomposition, release ammonia that interacts with chlorine. This is how inorganic chloramines appear, which have an unpleasant odor and irritant effect. In this case, it is concluded that there is a lack of free chlorine in order to fully disinfect.

It is for this purpose that pool visitors are advised to initially go to the toilet and shower so as not to pollute the water, which begins to emit an unpleasant odor due to chloramines, the excess of which is indicated by the following signs:

• the smell of bleach near the pool;
• burning sensation in the nose after prolonged bathing;
• pain in the eyes;
• exacerbation or appearance of bronchial asthma after the pool.

Checking the amount of chlorine in pool water

It is important to check the chlorine content in water once a week, and its sanitary norm is at least 0.5 mg / g. Today, there are special testers that help you quickly determine the amount of chlorine in water. These are tablet or drip forms, as well as litmus strips, which are rarely used. For testing, water is taken at a distance from the edge of the pool not less than 0.5 m, and deeper than 5 cm from the water surface.

During sampling, make sure that the filtration system is in good condition, the water level and pressure are normal. With its excessive amount, when the pool is located on the street, for example, debris from the surface, bypassing the filter, settles on the bottom with the formation of a large amount of organic compounds.

After testing and determining the amount of chlorine in the water, the exact concentration of drugs for effective disinfection is established. The product is placed in a special tank or skimmer, and the required dosage should be indicated in the attached instructions. There is a single rule for treatment with chlorine-containing agents, according to which, after the water disinfection procedure, a control measurement is made for the amount of residual free chlorine, whose norm is 0.5 mg / g, and the minimum should not fall below 0.3 mg / g.

Proper pool chlorination

Thus, before starting the procedure for chlorinating pool water, you must first determine the amount of chlorine in it, and then correctly calculate the dosage of the disinfectant. It should be emphasized that testing the water prior to chlorination is mandatory, as failure to do so would mean one thing: the pool's current chlorine levels are unknown, and the addition of a chlorine compound may be too high or too low. In the first case, the risk of allergic reactions increases, in the second - the preservation of pathogens in the water.

The choice of modern chemistry for pool water is quite large. The specific drug and its dosage are selected depending on the method of disinfection, water purity, ambient temperature, and the presence of precipitation during the treatment of an outdoor pool. It is important to know that as the temperature increases, the solubility of chlorine deteriorates. For example, if the water temperature is at zero, 14.8 g of the agent can dissolve in a liter of water. At a water temperature of 20 degrees, 9.6 g of chlorine dissolves in a liter of it. If the water is heated to 25 degrees, 6.5 g will dissolve in a liter, up to 40 degrees - 4.6 g.

Two types of chlorine are used to treat swimming pools:

• Stabilized - the product initially contains all the required stabilizers.
• Unstabilized - such chlorine quickly decomposes from exposure to ultraviolet light, as a result of which its disinfectant properties are lost, and a precipitate can form in the water that is difficult to clean. When using such a product, you will need a special chlorine stabilizer.

Before adding a chlorine-containing preparation to the pool, the water is preliminarily prepared. In this case, the pH should be in the range of 7.0-7.5. The quality of work of chlorine molecules in water will depend on it. If this range is exceeded, chlorine will become less active, which will lead to its overuse, because in such conditions the element quickly evaporates, adding an amount of unpleasant odor to the air.

After the procedure for cleaning the pool and disinfecting the water in it, the next step is to control the filtration system, which is cleaned as needed. Further, the tester evaluates the water indicators, and at an acceptable pH with chlorine indicators directly in the water, visitors can be invited to bathe without fear for their health. And we must not forget about the periodic monitoring of these indicators until the next complete change of water in the pool.

If you put a swimming pool outside the city, it turns out very quickly that it is very difficult to keep the water fresh in it, to protect it from greenery!

Nothing is done to the water in the pool for a week and a half, and then the water usually deteriorates, spider bugs start up, although it remains more or less transparent for another week, after all, it is no longer very fresh. You can chlorinate, but, according to reviews, even water chlorination does not really save water from spoiling.

You can salt the water - excellent water is obtained if about 50 kg of salt and 5 kg of soda are poured into 10 tons of water - it even tastes slightly salty. What is good about salting water is that midges do not start up in it, mosquitoes do not breed, and birds do not flock. This is an excellent tool, the only drawback is that you need to carry salt.

Well, salt and soda do not save water from greening, other means are also needed. Especially in the heat.

A septic tank is a must - it helps to protect water from greenery longer.

In summer, in the heat without disinfectants, even with a filter, the water in the pool deteriorates in a matter of days. Chemistry should be chosen based on the characteristics of water.

Sodium chloride (that is, simple salt) does not chlorinate water. Need free chlorine(because we feel the smell from tap water), and constantly, because. he is flying. Chlorine generators, subject to the addition of salt to the pool, just work in such a way that they release chlorine, converting it into volatile substances - it maintains the water in the pool.

Awnings are good, but every day, if it's hot, covering the pool is not an easy task. The awning can be used if the weather is cold and there will be a break from swimming. Or if you're leaving.

In chemistry - you can work with water according to the following plan:

1) equalize the p / h balance - for example, about 8 is high, you need 7.4

2) we put a tablet in the pump - a long chlorine tablet, the cartridge in the filter is changed every 2-3 weeks

3) once a week or two at night - a tablet of quick chlorine in the water.

4) it is necessary to regularly measure the p / h level - this is the first, if the level does not jump, water can be stored much longer.

Some use hydrogen peroxide: a 10 liter tank is enough for the whole summer for a pool of about 20 tons of water. Peroxide is added to the water once a month. We work with gloves, because this is a highly concentrated liquid, and most importantly - do not pour it into one place in plastic pools, otherwise it can corrode, and do not pour it onto the sides of the pool. You can swim within a day. You need to pour 0.5-0.7 kg per ton of water, and it is sold in canisters of 34 liters, about 1000 rubles each. for the canister. Perhydrol is a sea of ​​oxygen, do not smoke while working! Do not immediately pour the entire volume from the canister into the pool, as the perhydrol that has not had time to dissolve can fall to the bottom and as a result you will get a white spot at the bottom. We turn on the filtration of the pool on the second day after pouring the peroxide - oxygen begins to foam in the water from the jet of pumping water.

IMPORTANT - clean the bottom, you need a vacuum cleaner, otherwise it starts to bloom from the bottom.

The water in the pool theoretically should not change during the season, if the conditions for chlorination and the p / h level are met, only add fresh water to replace the evaporated one. That is, water is poured into the pool once a season before it starts and before changing the water. For the winter, a special reagent, compressors are added to the water (you can use ordinary plastic water bottles), and the water is safely frozen in the pool in winter, it is covered with a blanket.

Water in the autumn before winter cannot be completely drained so that the soil under the pool does not leave with the spring melting of snow, otherwise you will have to tamp and level the base under the pool again. So you need to take into account the possibilities of care and maintenance of the pool, not only in summer, but also in the "sleeping" season.

Pool chemicals

In fact, for the pool you only need:

1. Softener (or vice versa) - depends on p / h, only a special container and tablets are needed to measure. If you do not bring the p / h level to the required 7.2-7.4 in terms of hardness, then the next two chemicals will need to be added much more, so the first is to bring the water to the required hardness-softness.
2. Desalgin - from flowering.
3. Chlorine tablets or powder (there are different types and names).

Everything else is essentially optional and will not give a clear effect. So remember - only two chemicals - desalgin and chlorine tablets, and bringing water hardness to normal, and that's it. It is not difficult to master this procedure and it is enough to add chemistry once a week. Unless of course you filter the pool, if not, then put a filter, this will improve the situation.

The higher the temperature of the water, the stronger the processes are going on in it, you need to watch it more carefully in the heat, add chemistry more often.

Another option to maintain clean water in the pool:

1. Quickfloc Super Coagulant. Liquid product for removing cloudy water in the pool.

2. Calcinex Pool (hardness stabilizer).

Before the first set of water, it would be good to treat the walls of the pool with dezalgin. This is when the pool starts in the summer. Then we add 60-65 kg of ordinary table salt per 20 tons of water, and .... until September, the water is clean, no need to change!

It is desirable to pump 2-3 volumes of pool water per day with a filter, you need to look at the pool volume and filter performance.

Is it possible to drain chlorinated salt water from the pool under trees and shrubs?

This is the problem of small areas - where to drain 15 tons of chlorinated water with salt?

Rains will lower the concentration of salts, but the soil will take your salts to itself. And with a decrease in the supply of moisture, the concentration of salt in the soil will increase. Over time, chlorine as a negatively charged ion will be partially washed away. It must be borne in mind that the concentration of salts in soil moisture should not exceed 2 g/l. From here come recommendations for plant nutrition (20 grams of fertilizer per bucket of water). At a higher concentration, the plants are oppressed.

In the water of the pool in which the chlorine generator worked, on average 50,000 grams / 15,000 liters, this is 3.3 g / l. Too much for plants, almost 2 times higher than normal. It is better to drain not under trees and bushes, but away from them. This water is used for watering lawns. But although this is not very small, for one-time lump sum reset is not critical. It all depends on how much snow there will be and how rainy the autumn-spring will be. For autumn and winter, everything should be washed well.

Alkali is needed to neutralize the salt, i.e. like soda.

The concentration of salt in sea water is an average of 24 g per liter, i.e. 24 kg of salt per ton of water, so 50 kg dissolved in 15 tons of water is such a minuscule compared to sea water, which is not even serious.

The main nutrients for plants are POTASSIUM, NITROGEN, PHOSPHORUS, CALCIUM. Neither sodium nor chlorine is included in this list. Chlorine is a poison for most vegetable plants. The active part of potassium chloride and potassium salt is potassium. The same with sodium humate. Humic acids are a useful component, sodium is a useless appendage that allows you to introduce a useful part of the fertilizer.

Chlorophobic plants that react negatively to an increased content of chlorine in the soil include tobacco, grapes, pumpkins, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, fruit and berry crops. In tree species, the toxic effect of chlorine is manifested only at high concentrations of chlorine in the nutrient solution, while in gooseberries, red currants and strawberries, its negative effect is already manifested at low concentrations.

In fact, if you act completely according to the rules, pouring such an amount of water (15-20 tons) once onto the ground even without salt is not very useful and is not recommended. Excess moisture, seeping through the fertile layer, takes nutrients out of it. It is harmful to moisten the soil beyond its full capacity. The reason for salinization of soils is precisely in excessive irrigation.

The safest and most environmentally friendly way is to drain the pool into a filter well or underground filter field. It is impossible to drain such concentrations onto the ground (into a ditch) or into a reservoir (the excess of the MPC for chlorides is almost 10-fold (no more than 350 g / m3)). But on the field of underground filtration or in the filtering well - you can.

If the soil is sandy or sandy, then to drain, simply dig a hole a meter and a half deep and dig a well-perforated barrel into it, half filled with rubble inside, outside around the barrel to a depth of half a meter, also fill it with rubble and close over the rubble with roofing material, old linoleum, etc. etc., then with earth (do not forget to remove the pipe from the center of the barrel).

For a day, the pool cannot be poured into a barrel - everything will pop up. But slowly, in 1-2 weeks, the water will slowly merge. Maybe faster - it all depends on the soil. If you drain once a season - this is normal. But there will be no harm to plants, and do not spoil the soil, and it will be possible to drain water from the shower there.

pool chlorine generator

The application technology is very simple: on the example of a pool 6x3 m. According to the instructions of the chlorine generator, salt is poured into the pool in the amount of 50 kg. The filter-chlorine generator for chlorine generation is turned on - free chlorine is obtained (according to the instructions).

The filter-chlorine generator has parallel plates through which water from the pool passes. Voltage is applied to these plates. It turns out electrolysis - the output is free chlorine and scale (white flakes, like on the heating element of the kettle), but not much - the smell of chlorine is not felt, but the turbid water, which leaves green-brown mucus on the filter, becomes transparent and the filter clogs less.

Salt is not consumed in this process.

An example of such a chlorine generator is the Intex Saltwater System 54612.

Since electrolysis and chlorination are not healthy, it is natural to bathe when the chlorine generator is not working. This is how (at night) the water in the pools in the hotels is treated, so it is forbidden to swim there at night.

The water in the pool when using the chlorine generator tastes slightly salty, but very far from the sea.

If the water became very cloudy - turned on the chlorine generator - it became transparent.

Inflatable shallow pools

Game Pool Bestway Star Wars, only 276 liters, you can change the water every day!

If you have the opportunity to constantly pour fresh water and not worry about caring for it, as an option, you can take a small inflatable pool with a slide, great for cooling in the heat.

You can’t swim in it, but you can splash around all day, splash, ride down a hill. A few days passed, the water ceased to be clean - they drained it, rubbed it, poured it clean.

It heats up instantly, and the inputs do not need too much, it pours quickly.

Smart Pool cleaning systems - no problem at all!

This is a novelty (since 2012), which generally relieves the pool of water problems: it is quite expensive, but by putting this device in the pool, you can completely forget about all chemistry and cleaning.

Smart Pool is an innovative alternative to built-in chlorine, PH, coagulant dispensers. Ecological system. Smart Pool is a compact device that ionizes the water molecules in the pool, slightly changing its charge. As a result, water molecules become antagonistic to bacteria in contact with it.

The difference from chemical disinfectants is that when using the Smart Pool device, organic substances (bacteria, algae) that enter the pool bowl do not oxidize (decompose into gases) as when using chemicals, but die off, precipitating.

The ph level is not affected. Can be used in salt water.

According to real reviews, the pool has been standing for 4 weeks, the water is clean.

It is only necessary to monitor the mechanical contamination of the water and purify the water using filtration or a vacuum cleaner. Vacuum the bottom and walls of the pool in order to remove debris that falls into the pool bowl. All. Chemistry is not needed.

Designed devices for 4 seasons of use. That is, 4 years in a row your pool in the summer will not present problems.

Attention! The ball needs to be taken with some margin: not two balls of small volume (adding one to the other), but better more. Not much, but - one ball, and - more than covering the volume of your pool. That is, two balls, designed for, say, 5 cubes each, do not work when cleaning a pool of 10 cubes. For 10 cubes and take a ball for 10-20 cubic meters. pools.

Devices are different- choose depending on the volume of the pool. For example:

Cleaning system Smart Pool "Maxi" for pools ranging in size from 10 to 20 cubic meters

Diameter of this magic ball: 65mm.

Inside the spherical plastic case, with a hole in the upper hemisphere, there are active elements with silver and copper. The built-in power supply activates the water ionization system with silver and copper ions, effectively disinfects water without the use of chlorine and other chemicals.

Shelf life: 3 years.

You can use it during the entire expiration date indefinitely! It can be used both permanently (the entire period during the expiration date in stationary pools) and periodically (for example, for the summer season in collapsible or inflatable pools).

Smart Pool Super 60 cleaning system for large stationary pools from 30 to 60 m3

The advantages of the Smart Pool disinfection system: it does not allow harmful bacteria to multiply in the water, waterlines form, water blooms (algae multiply), allows you to significantly reduce the cost of chlorine and chemicals, relieve the headache associated with constant care of the pool - just place the Smart Pool to the pool and forget about all the problems associated with water disinfection for 3 years!

Does not require connection to the network, does not require consumables and maintenance!

All Smart Pool devices are compatible with any disinfectants (including ozonizers and ultraviolet units), as it is based on other principles of disinfection. The use of chemicals - bleach, hydrogen peroxide, ph + and ph-, algicidal preparations in most cases is not advisable when using SP.

Water can be used any up to the river. After a few days, it will be safe to use in the pool. But the more dirty the water, the more it will have to filter out the precipitated precipitate.

During the winter, the Smart Pool can be left inside the pool if the water in it does not freeze. Or take it out and store it in a dry place.